Cheers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
HoYo
Healeyguy@aol.com wrote:
> Listers
> The hour has not yet arrived here but I wanted to wish all of you a healthy
> and happy new year. All the best.........
> Aloha
> Perry
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 15:37:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Hot Wheels Healeys
And it wasn't even a Judson supercharger!!!!!!!!!
wait til' you see what they did to the 100S , if you can find
ONE................those "bad
boys".................................................................HoHoHoYo.
Howard Young wrote:
> I was hoping to find some one who could remove the supercharger and louver my
> hood LeMans style..........................HoHoHoYo
>
> Robert Denton wrote:
>
> > I had some, but one of the wheels had one bent spoke. I was told that
> > replacing the spoke would render them non-original and therefore worthless.
>So
> > I put them on e-bay about three months ago. Life's tough, ain't it?
> >
> > David Masucci wrote:
> >
> > > Larry's right....anyone know where I can get some 72 spoke chrome wires
>for
> > > my Hot Wheel Healey?
> > >
> > > Dave
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Larry Dickstein <bugide@solve.net>
> > > To: David Masucci <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>
> > > Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Friday, December 22, 2000 7:41 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Hot Wheels Healeys
> > >
> > > >
> > > > David Masucci wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > I'm thinking of taking a hot knife to that stupid thing that's
>sticking
> > > out
> > > > > of the hood, and then filling the hole with some bondo. I quick
>respray
> > > and
> > > > > maybe it'll actually look more like what it was supposed to. We'll
> > > > > see....I'd have to find the time of course.
> > > >
> > > > The next thing you know, you'll have the whole thing is a gazillon
>pieces
> > > and
> > > > waiting for parts from England. You've heard the story about the guys
> > > (myself
> > > > included!) that started out replacing the carpet and while the carpet
>was
> > > out
> > > > they decided that the door trim needed a little work, etc., etc., etc.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Larry Dickstein
> > > > Lone Jack, MO
> > > >
> > > > Pop. 420
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 00:50:37 -0800
Subject: Happy New Year...
Happy New Year all....Neil
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 20:17:41 +0800
Subject: Lots of queries
Hi all
Finished painting my body panels off the car today. Will fit them during the
week and do the final painting at the end of next week.
As I'm now getting near the end all these little problems arise and again I
turn to the list for help.
Can someone please advise me what type of screws hold the rear lip of the
front shroud to the scuttle top inner panel? I have lots of holes of varying
sizes.
How do these screw heads affect the installation of the padded dash top?
How is the padded dash top actually held in place?
On the side windows what is the finish of the front & rear bracket? Mine
could have been either zinc or chrome.
What is the exact position of the name badges on the trunk. (Heavens, I'm
actually writing in the other vernacular now). My trunk lid lower has been
totally remade, hence no holes.
And now a question for Roger as he seemed to answer all my other painting
questions.
When cars were painted two tone eg Healey Blue over Old English White, where
exactly was the join line? and was the White painted over the Blue? If so
was there originally a lip at the masking line? or were they somehow blended
in?
TIA
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in restoration.
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 19:49:22 -0500
Subject: Re:Magazines
I have sets of Chatter and Austin-Healey magazine that go back to 1987.
Not all are complete, but missing only a few isues. Before they go on
eBay let me know if you would be interested, off the list. Thanks and
have great Healey New Year!!!
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 10:18:14 EST
Subject: Exhaust coatings
Listers,
What is the collective wisdom on exhaust manifolds and painting them? I have
used the Eastwood stainless steel grey stuff on other cars in the past.
Works well enough, but does tend to discolor in high heat areas over time.
Steve Byers has had sucess with Jet-hot coatings.
What have you all done? I don't want to put the manifolds back on bare, as
the rusty look is not what I am going for.
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 12:04:55 EST
Subject: Re: Lots of queries
In a message dated 01/01/2001 5:18:46 AM Mountain Standard Time,
jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au writes:
<<
Can someone please advise me what type of screws hold the rear lip of the
front shroud to the scuttle top inner panel? I have lots of holes of varying
sizes. >>
The front shroud is pop rivited to the scuttle frame using 3/16" aluminum
rivits. The same pop rivits go to the riser plates on the front wheel arches
and to the sides of the cowl. I think there may be 5 rivits across the edge
of the dash top. There are holes for the screws that pass through the folded
ends of the scutle seals (#6) and that hold other chrome bits on (also #6).
There are a series (I believe 5) of short, flat head, Phillips screws that
hold the back edge of the bonnet opening to the top of the firewall. These
are also #6, and on the originals the cross points appear verylarge relative
to the head diameter-- i.e. they extend almost to the very edge. I have
never seen screws exactly like these available, so it is important to save
the originals or find used ones to replace with. The apearance is very
"british" and they are quite visible.
Roger
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 12:54:47 -0500
Subject: Fan belt for 100
Hello and Happy New Year all:
Question, what fan belt are you guys using for a bn1? NAPA number, Gates,
Dayco? TIA
lance
54 bn1
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 11:37:40 -0600
Subject: Wow!!
Happy New Years, guys and girls!!
Below is link with car goodies on HUGE sale!! I mean HUGE!!
Cheers.............
Ed
http://www.actron.com/cgi-bin/web_store.cgi?page=garage.htm&cart_id=4947204_
6417
From Steve Dupus <stevsgarage at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 10:45:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Conclave 2002
Hope everone had a good holiday season and a happy new year, thought I would
pass on some information I received about transportation to Reno for the
OpenRoads Healey International in 2002, If your interested be sure to e-mail or
call Mel.
I would also like you to have anyone interested in being on Kansas City Healey
clubs E-mail list to E-mail me at stevsgarage@yahoo.com
Steve
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name
of OpenRoad2002.doc]
From Steve Dupus <stevsgarage at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 10:59:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re:locating mounting holes
Happy New Year all....Neil
I found a good way to relocate holes in a new panel is to use old panel for
pattern, cover area in question back to usable referance point with masking
paper or newspaper. on a panel like a boot lid you might cover entire panel to
insure proper positioning the poke holes in paper through holes in panel. Next
remove paper frrom old panel and place on new panel in exact same
position(perfect pattern)
Steve
From Steve Dupus <stevsgarage at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 11:09:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Update on high rpm running
Keith Pennell <pennell@whro.net> wrote:
Hello Listers,
Not long ago I posted a situation with the BN7 wherein it was popping,
backfiring, coughing, spitting, and such when you mashed it to the floor. At
constant rpms it ran great. Got several replies from the list and thanks for
those! Also a mechanic friend suggested some things.
Well, I found a couple things. Seems that a while back when replacing a wire
in the distributor that I got a couple of screws switched. The short one for
mounting the condenser wound up mounting the back plate and the back plate
screw mounting the condenser. (Senior moment) This longer screws binds the
top plate against the back plate not allowing any advance under acceleration.
Also found that the vacuum advance unit did not work. Perhaps a result of the
above? Fortunately had one on had that did work and replaced. I now have a
working system. However, on the road test there was still the same symptoms
mentioned above!
Thought I would try swapping coils. Road test, and car ran fine. Just for
grins decided to check the old coil again - car ran fine! What is going on
here??????? Not sure but would not surprise me that if I went out right now
it would run poorly again!
Also, was advised to check the slack in the timng chain. Found that when
reversing the direction of rotation of the crank that there was 3/4 inch
travel of the timing mark before any motion in the rotor button. Is this
excessive? Is this a possible cause of my woes?
Should I do a valve adjustment?
Any thoughts out there?
Keith Pennell
BJ8 BN7
I think from what you describbed that my next step would be to check carefuly
the wires to your coil both from the main haness and from the coil to the
distibutor. A bad connection at the terminals or a small bare spot could be the
cause of your greif and changing the coil might have at least temperarly moved
the wires enough to improve the connections.
Steve
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 14:42:29 EST
Subject: Re: Ammeter or voltmeter?
In a message dated 12/26/00 5:23:19 PM, thehartnetts@earthlink.net writes:
<< I have both
Smiths ammeter and voltmeter on my BJ8. They are virtually identical to my
original instruments. The ammeters come etiher 30-0-30 or 60-0-60 and the
voltmeter is 10-15 volts. >>
Smiths also makes the instruments in a "Lilac" face, which is pretty close to
the light-colored face on the BN4-BJ7 cars. XJs Unltd would be the first
place to inquire (they provided me with a set several years ago) but they may
not have them in stock any longer, and to my knowledge, they're no longer
offering the Smiths line. However, there are also several English suppliers
like Holdens that might stock them.
Cheers
Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 14:45:52 EST
Subject: Re: Grey Interiors on BJ8s
In a message dated 12/26/00 10:30:23 PM, pbrauen@telepak.net writes:
<< The car is/was Florida green, however, not BRG. It is a phase one BJ8
with gray interior complete with the 'chrome' piping, the small embossed
squares on the pleated portion of the seats, and the large embossed squares
on the rear panels and backrest. It sounds like it is identical in
specification to any other Ambla (not leather) BJ8 interior. >>
Thanks for the note -- We're aware that the grey interiors were only
available as standard on the red and Florida green BJ8s, but were interested
in whether in other respects they matched BJ8 interiors in other colors --
which obviously from these observations, they do. We are aware that grey
interiors weren't ever standard on BRG BJ8s -- too bad; it would have been a
striking combination.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Chairman, Concours Registry
From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 01 Jan 2001 12:02:54 -0800
Subject: Glove Box mounting
Hi all,
I've come to a point where I need the valued list advice. I'm
refinishing the dash, and just finished the glove box door, hinges, etc.
and was wondering if their is any tricks to installing the cardboard
glove box interior? should I wait until I mount the dash in the car
before installing it?
Any help much appreciated.
Jerry Rude
BJ8
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 15:09:45 EST
Subject: Re: How did they do it? painting that is.
In a message dated 12/28/00 7:22:08 AM, jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au writes:
<< So---- assuming the same
logic one would suppose that the door stay assembly and hinges are painted
body colour as well. >>
HInges -- yes. Door stay assembly -- no.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 15:16:27 EST
Subject: Re: nutty question
In a message dated 12/28/00 7:36:58 PM, bjcap@frontiernet.net writes:
<<
Were the two nuts that hold the coil bracket (left unpainted) to the
generator ,painted engine green ? Two orig BJ8s in the shop have traces of
green paint on the nuts.
Any thoughts ? this doesnt seem logical
Reguards Carroll >>
Good question-- when writing the concours standards and our new book, we were
aware of BJ8s that had been observed with traces of green paint on the coil
bracket. Our conclusion is that they must have been done both ways -- either
with the bracket (but obviously not the coil) on the generator when painted,
or without the bracket. So we've recommended that restorers can do it either
way, but just be consistent -- either paint the whole bracket and fasteners
engine green, or don't paint either the top of the bracket or fasteners.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Chairman, AH Concours Registry
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 15:24:48 EST
Subject: Re: bumpers
In a message dated 12/29/00 7:59:04 AM, foxriverkid@earthlink.net writes:
<<
Now I'm curious. Are BN6 bumpers painted on the inside too?
Bob Denton
1958 BN-6 >>
As far as we know. Silver or gray both have been observed.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 15:37:02 EST
Subject: Re: Fw: Restore or Sell
In a message dated 12/31/00 10:02:24 AM, jbpate@attglobal.net writes:
<< I figured
I would put $10-12k into it and it would take about 1 or 2 years. Well it is
now
3 1/2 years, and about $15k later. I will probably put another $5k in it
before
done. The moral of the story is: I might have been better off selling it at
$10k
and buying a nice restoration for about $25-30k and I could have been driving
it
for 3 years.I would have come out about even. >>
People have pointed out in the past that restoring a vintage car can be
compared to buying one on time (or maybe putting money into a purchase fund,
when you don't have all the ready cash at one time to buy a completely
restored car. You make a down payment, then put money and time into the car
as resources permit, and at some point down the road, you'll have a complete
car.
Cheers
Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 15:37:55 EST
Subject: Re: Intake manifold
In a message dated 12/31/00 10:08:51 AM, Healybj8@aol.com writes:
<< I have the engine apart now, and I was wondering what the intake manifold
on
my BJ8 should look like. It is alloy, and I was wondering if this should be
painted. There was no paint to speak of on it, so shoul this remain silver?
>>
It should be painted Healey engine green along with the rest of the engine.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 15:47:07 EST
Subject: Jet-Hot
I have heard big claims for this product insofar as heat elimination is
concerned and I would like to know what experiences any listers have had,
whether negative or positive.
Thanks in advance--Michael Oritt, BN1
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 01 Jan 2001 16:19:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Fw: Restore or Sell
"People have pointed out in the past that restoring a vintage car can be
compared to buying one on time "
It can also be compared to digging a hole in the road and pouring in $100 bills
;-)
Happy New Year to All.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 12/31/00 10:02:24 AM, jbpate@attglobal.net writes:
>
> << I figured
> I would put $10-12k into it and it would take about 1 or 2 years. Well it is
> now
> 3 1/2 years, and about $15k later. I will probably put another $5k in it
> before
> done. The moral of the story is: I might have been better off selling it at
> $10k
> and buying a nice restoration for about $25-30k and I could have been driving
> it
> for 3 years.I would have come out about even. >>
>
> People have pointed out in the past that restoring a vintage car can be
> compared to buying one on time (or maybe putting money into a purchase fund,
> when you don't have all the ready cash at one time to buy a completely
> restored car. You make a down payment, then put money and time into the car
> as resources permit, and at some point down the road, you'll have a complete
> car.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From "AH102 at home.com" <ah102@home.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 16:45:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Exhaust coatings
Doug: I have used the Eastwood silver/gray manifold paint on rusty
manifolds without removing them from the car. After about a year they
needed touching up.....This was satisfactory for me at the time considering
the low cost and ease of application. However, for the ultimate in good
looks and long life, the Jet-Hot is the way to go, especially if they are
off the car now. I had my 100-4 headers done inside and out, and after two
seasons of vintage racing, no discoloration......They still look like new.
Kind of pricey, but you only have to do it once.
I don't know what the concours guys would say....I believe the manifolds
were painted green at the factory along with the rest of the engine.
Good Luck,
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <Healybj8@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 10:18 AM
Subject: Exhaust coatings
>
> Listers,
>
> What is the collective wisdom on exhaust manifolds and painting them? I
have
> used the Eastwood stainless steel grey stuff on other cars in the past.
> Works well enough, but does tend to discolor in high heat areas over time.
> Steve Byers has had sucess with Jet-hot coatings.
>
> What have you all done? I don't want to put the manifolds back on bare,
as
> the rusty look is not what I am going for.
>
> Tim Wallace
> '67 BJ8
> Fuquay-Varina, NC
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 16:51:59 EST
Subject: Re: Ammeter or voltmeter?
> Smiths also makes the instruments in a "Lilac" face,
>
Gower Oaks lists gauges in "Magnolia." Is that the same as "Lilac" ? Which is
the correct name?
The reason I ask is because I am doing a Healey trivia contest for a club
event and I have the answer as "Magnolia."
Any suggestions for good Healey Trivia questions warmly welcomed.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Mon, 01 Jan 2001 16:01:50 -0600
Subject: Re: Fw: Restore or Sell
Krazy Kiwi wrote:
> "People have pointed out in the past that restoring a vintage car can be
> compared to buying one on time "
>
> It can also be compared to digging a hole in the road and pouring in $100
>bills
I would only add that it needs to be a very large hole.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 22:21:32 -0000
Subject: RE: Exhaust coatings
And while you all have your manifold expertise to hand, I remain
interested to hear if anyone has worked on improving the flow of
their manifolds by easing the right angle. That would be as
alternative to the six branch manifold system.....
Simon.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
> Healybj8@aol.com
> Sent: 01 January 2001 15:18
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Exhaust coatings
>
>
>
> Listers,
>
> What is the collective wisdom on exhaust manifolds and
> painting them? I have
> used the Eastwood stainless steel grey stuff on other
> cars in the past.
> Works well enough, but does tend to discolor in high
> heat areas over time.
> Steve Byers has had sucess with Jet-hot coatings.
>
> What have you all done? I don't want to put the
> manifolds back on bare, as
> the rusty look is not what I am going for.
>
> Tim Wallace
> '67 BJ8
> Fuquay-Varina, NC
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 17:27:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Jet-Hot
Hi, Michael, and Happy Healey New Year!
I don't know about heat elimination, but the luster silver coating looks
better than the rusted manifold I used to have. After 10,000 miles, there
is no cracking, chipping, peeling, discoloration or any other defect in the
coating that I can see.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, January 01, 2001 4:14 PM
Subject: Jet-Hot
>
>I have heard big claims for this product insofar as heat elimination is
>concerned and I would like to know what experiences any listers have had,
>whether negative or positive.
>
>Thanks in advance--Michael Oritt, BN1
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 20:48:20 -0500
Subject: Re:Jaguar Manual
Have available an absolutely beautiful copy of the Jaguar Series #
E-Type, open 2-seater Illustrated Parts Catalogue, which was distributed
by Auto Book Center. If interested please contact me off the list.
Thanks.
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 18:23:14 -0500
Subject: Re;Glove Box mounting
Jerry, I think it would be very difficult to put the cardboard
compartment on after the dash was installed, whereas I found it
relatively easy (lying on my back with my head in the foot well) to
re-fit the unit as a whole.
Regards, Stephen, BJ8
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 15:40:52 -0800
Subject: Frame Deflection
Hello Listers, I have what may seem to be a dumb question, but here goes.
Some months ago there was a discussion on whether the engine and
transmission needed to be installed before fitting the body panels.
Apparently the concern was that the frame would deflect with the weight of
the engine and trans.
I have done restorations both ways (although I admit that the one where the
panels were fitted w/o engine and trans still has to have the panels
reinstalled for the final time...which is why I'm worried). Since I'm
starting another restoration, I decided to get scientific and measure the
gap between the Hinge Pillar and the Shut Pillar (Moss Catalog terminology)
near the top, on both sides of the car before and after the heavy stuff was
removed.
There seems to be no significant difference! Am I missing something?
This is a rust-free chassis, except for small areas of the rocker panels
under the rear fender dog legs. I compared the above measurements to those
on the chassis done w/o the engine and trans, and they are the same also.
John Snyder
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Mon, 01 Jan 2001 16:46:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Exhaust coatings
Tim,
A friend (David Porter) turned me on to what I think is the ultimate manifold
finish. After sandblasting the manifold cover it with spray graphite. This fills
the pores in the metal, it resists manifold heat and it gives a nice neutral
satin grey/black (rust free) finish. After it dries it is not prone to rubbing
or washing off. It's a low tech solution that works well and is cheap to use.
Besides you can still use the rest of the can as a lubricant.
Try it, You'll like it.
Bill Lawrence
Healybj8@aol.com wrote:
> Listers,
>
> What is the collective wisdom on exhaust manifolds and painting them? I have
> used the Eastwood stainless steel grey stuff on other cars in the past.
> Works well enough, but does tend to discolor in high heat areas over time.
> Steve Byers has had sucess with Jet-hot coatings.
>
> What have you all done? I don't want to put the manifolds back on bare, as
> the rusty look is not what I am going for.
>
> Tim Wallace
> '67 BJ8
> Fuquay-Varina, NC
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 18:54:41 EST
Subject: Roseville, CA Healey Sighting
Hi All,
Saw nice black (or dark blue) over old English white Austin Healey with white
hard top on Eureka Road E/O I-80 in Roseville, CA at about 1:45 p.m. today
(New Year's Day). The couple looked to be out for a spin in the nice 60+
degree weather. Nice looking car with a nice sound. Gave them the "thumbs
up."
Anyone know who's car it is?
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From "Thomas Mulligan" <tpmul at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 18:56:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Jet-Hot
I had the intake and exhaust manifolds Jet-Hot
coated o my BJ8 about two years ago.
I do not believe there is any reduction in
underhood heat, but they sure look great
with no noticeable deterioration so far.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 3:47 PM
Subject: Jet-Hot
>
> I have heard big claims for this product insofar as heat elimination is
> concerned and I would like to know what experiences any listers have had,
> whether negative or positive.
>
> Thanks in advance--Michael Oritt, BN1
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 19:14:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Glove Box mounting
Hi, Jerry -
The glovebox is attached to the dash with 12 small screws. It would be
pretty close to impossible to get the screws into the upper part of the
glovebox with the dash in place. I attached the glovebox to the wood dash
and then installed the whole assembly.
Happy Healey New Year!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net>
To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, January 01, 2001 3:34 PM
Subject: Glove Box mounting
>
>Hi all,
>
>I've come to a point where I need the valued list advice. I'm
>refinishing the dash, and just finished the glove box door, hinges, etc.
>and was wondering if their is any tricks to installing the cardboard
>glove box interior? should I wait until I mount the dash in the car
>before installing it?
>
>Any help much appreciated.
>
>Jerry Rude
>BJ8
From "Ron Yates" <dipstickdigest at ctaz.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 17:59:22 -0700
Subject: New photos on website
Happy New Year to all
I have just updated the Dipstick's website with some new/old photos. These
date from 1954 and include the second car to arrive on the west coast
(George Swift), Bill McDonalds 100 at the 1954 Stockton Road races, John
McLauglin - same race in Ray Gage's car; the 100S of Jack Breskovich
(polished aluminum!), and Gene Sweeny of San Anselmo BMC Cars with George
Swift at the 1954 Pebble beach race.
Check them out on the photos page at:
www.ctaz.com/~dipstickdigest/index.html
Enjoy
Ron Yates
Editor of the Dipstick Digest
(Newsletter of the World's Smallest Austin-Healey Club)
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 20:04:54 EST
Subject: Re: Fw: Restore or Sell
In a message dated 1/1/01 3:22:01 PM Central Standard Time, magicare@home.com
writes:
> "People have pointed out in the past that restoring a vintage car can be
> compared to buying one on time "
>
> It can also be compared to digging a hole in the road and pouring in $100
> bills
> ;-)
>
> Happy New Year to All.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
>
>
Hey Mike, let me know what road your doing that on, I need a few things for
the BT7!!!
Happy New Year!
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!)
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 20:24:54 EST
Subject: Frame Deflection - bunk!
In a message dated 1/1/01 5:43:19 PM Central Standard Time,
johnahsn@olypen.com writes:
> Some months ago there was a discussion on whether the engine and
> transmission needed to be installed before fitting the body panels.
> Apparently the concern was that the frame would deflect with the weight of
> the engine and trans.
>
> I still maintain that this is a problem only with defective ( corroded)
> frames. I absolutely believe this has happened to some people, and
> therefore the urban myth continues. If your frame moves when you put in
> the engine, it is really going to be a mess when you drive it!! I also
> went through the whole measuring thing in my door openings, (scribed points
> top and bottom, and used an internal micrometer with made up super
> extension) and there was NO change in these dimensions pre/post
> engine/tranny install.
>
> I have only owned a few Healeys over the years, and certainly do not have
> the depth of experience of some of the restorers on the list, but I still
> feel this is bunk!
> Look for the real root of the problem, a defective frame, I know it sounds
> scary, but when the car is apart is the time to fix it!
>
> Best of luck!!
>
>
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!)
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.
From "Thomas Mulligan" <tpmul at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 20:22:34 -0500
Subject: Heater Hose
I need to replace the water hose that
connects the heater box to the copper
water return pipe on my BJ8.
It looks like it will be very difficult to
get at under the dash. Does anyone
have any tips on the best way to do this?
Thanks.
Tom
From jbpate at attglobal.net
Date: Mon, 01 Jan 2001 20:38:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Glove Box mounting
I did mine about a month ago. I did it prior to installing the dash. The
best hint is to be sure and expand it over the opening. I drilled pilot
holes as I worked my way around. I first installed one side and then
worked my way around the perimeter while making sure I had the box opening
expanded to the width of the dash opening. It is very easy to then install
the entire assembly in the car. Barry Pate 1967 BJ8
Jerry Rude wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I've come to a point where I need the valued list advice. I'm
> refinishing the dash, and just finished the glove box door, hinges, etc.
> and was wondering if their is any tricks to installing the cardboard
> glove box interior? should I wait until I mount the dash in the car
> before installing it?
>
> Any help much appreciated.
>
> Jerry Rude
> BJ8
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 20:41:32 EST
Subject: Re: Heater Hose
In a message dated 1/1/01 7:31:28 PM Central Standard Time,
tpmul@worldnet.att.net writes:
This is the begining of the aforementioned "Shipwright's disease"!!!!!
The best way to do this is to remove the front shroud. (just kidding of
course!)
It can be done, you just need nimble hands!
> water hose that
> connects the heater box to the copper
> water return pipe on my BJ8.
> It looks like it will be very difficult to
> get at under the dash. Does anyone
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 20:50:07 EST
Subject: Re: Fan belt for 100
In a message dated 01/01/2001 10:58:27 AM Mountain Standard Time,
brshwrks@bellatlantic.net writes:
<<
Hello and Happy New Year all:
Question, what fan belt are you guys using for a bn1? NAPA number, Gates,
Dayco? TIA
lance
54 bn1 >>
This is a non-trivial question. First, I know of NO correct fan belt sold by
anyone. There are three dimensions to consider, and how the belt fits
depends on their interrelationship. There is the width, the thicness, and
the length.
Ideally, the belt will ride in the pulleys with the outer surface flush with
the edge of the pulley. If the belt is too wide by just a few thousandths it
will ride up (befause of the effect of geometry and the pulley angles) and
stick above the edge of the pulley. If the belt is too thick, while the
outer surface may ride properly, the ID will be on the small side and you
will not be able to slip it over the pulleys without removing the generator
mounting bolts to allow the generator to rotate inwards a bit.
And the length will affect again whether you can install it without removing
the generator or whether it will tighten before you run out of slot on the
adjustment link.
The SC belt is a bit too wide and thick. It rides aobut 1/32 - 1/16" high,
and the ID is too small to fit over the pulleys without removing the
generator mount bolts. But once installed, it will last forever and doesn't
look all that bad. The correct width at the outer surface is 3/4". The SC
belt is 13/16".
I don't know how other belts fit that are for sale.
I did go to Beaulieu about three years ago and pawed through boxes of old
belts under tables at a number of stalls. Out of my search I found ONE belt
of the proper dimensions to fit the pulley and allow itself to be installed
without having to remove the generator. I also have a NOS belt that fits the
pulleys, but is too short and thus you have to remove the generator to
install it. Has the correct BMC part number stamped on it and everything.
For convenience, you could try a belt from a US Healey parets supplier and
return it if it doesn't work. I don't know of any part numbers for Gates or
NAPA that will work. We checked this out fairly thoroughly some years back.
At one time I thought someone said they knew of a source fot he correct belt,
but it was like $30.00. I didn't want to spend that much on an experiment as
I had a belt that will last me forever anyway.
Let us know what you find out.
Roger
From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 18:30:17 -0800
Subject: Re: Roseville, CA Healey Sighting
That was me in first run out with the restored hartop. I am amazed at how
the hardtop seals better than a convertible top. I had a good drive but got
too hot with the side screens on. I will have to hope for colder weather or
turn the heater off.
The other problem is how to fold yourself into the Healey with the hardtop
on. I wish they had given about 1" more headroom. By the way, it is a
midnight blue over off white. The Midnight blue is a chevy color and the
white is a ford color. Not original but it is mine and I want to drive it
more than show it.
John, Do you live in Granite Bay?, I though you were from the bay area?
Jerry
1959 BN4
>
> Hi All,
> Saw nice black (or dark blue) over old English white Austin Healey with
white
> hard top on Eureka Road E/O I-80 in Roseville, CA at about 1:45 p.m. today
> (New Year's Day). The couple looked to be out for a spin in the nice 60+
> degree weather. Nice looking car with a nice sound. Gave them the
"thumbs
> up."
> Anyone know who's car it is?
>
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
From "R. Markl/B. Council" <rmarkl at bellsouth.net>
Date: Mon, 01 Jan 2001 20:27:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Fan belt for 100
An original BN1 fan belt I measured was 3/4" wide with a 46 3/4" outside
circumference, marked MOWOG; 2H 4238
Rudi Markl
100M
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 21:32:43 EST
Subject: Re: Ammeter or voltmeter?
In a message dated 1/1/01 1:51:59 PM, Jwhlyadv writes:
<< Gower Oaks lists gauges in "Magnolia." Is that the same as "Lilac" ? Which
is the correct name?
The reason I ask is because I am doing a Healey trivia contest for a club
event and I have the answer as "Magnolia." >>
If you're looking at the catalog, you're probably right -- I'm writing from
memory -- I knew it was one of those flowers.
Cheers
Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 21:34:26 EST
Subject: Re: Exhaust coatings
In a message dated 1/1/01 2:28:21 PM, simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk writes:
<< I remain
interested to hear if anyone has worked on improving the flow of
their manifolds by easing the right angle. >>
It certainly didn't hurt on mine -- whether it helped or not is impossible to
tell, since several other things were done at the same time. But it was
recommended during the period and is still recommended now by many.
Cheers
Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 21:47:20 EST
Subject: Re: Heater Hose
In a message dated 1/1/01 5:45:21 PM, MOWOGMAN@aol.com writes:
<<
It can be done, you just need nimble hands! >>
As suggested previously by several people -- see if you can trade some BIG
favor to your wife for help in this assembly. Amazing what can be done by
smaller hands on the ends of smaller arms (But recommend she wear gloves
while doing it.)
Cheers
Gary
From Steve Dupus <stevsgarage at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 18:53:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Conclave 2002
MOWOGMAN@aol.com wrote:
In a message dated 1/1/01 12:47:38 PM Central Standard Time,
stevsgarage@yahoo.com writes:
mail me at stevsgarage@yahoo.com
Steve
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a
name of OpenRoad2002.doc]
Steve, it looks like the list server removed your attachment! Could you try
again, or paste the verbiage into your message?
Thanks, I'm interested in hearing about the transportation.
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!)
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.
Sorry seems the system eat my attachment and I didn't save a copy, but Mel can
be contacted at kmgough@aol.com
Steve
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 21:57:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Heater Hose
Hi, Tom -
I don't think you can replace the hose without removing the console and
dropping the heater box down for access. Unfortunately, I think that also
means you have to disconnect the heater control cables to the water valve
and air inlet duct butterfly valve because they are too stiff and short to
allow the heater box to move very far unless disconnected. I could be wrong
about that. You could see what kind of access you have before disconnecting
the control cables.
If disconnection is necessary, I recommend you move the heater slide lever
and the hot air control knob to an extreme position and note the position of
the water valve and butterfly levers before disconnecting them. That will
make it easier to put them back where they were.
Another recommendation would be to replace both hoses while you have the
heater box lowered.
Happy Healey New Year!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Thomas Mulligan <tpmul@worldnet.att.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, January 01, 2001 8:58 PM
Subject: Heater Hose
>
>I need to replace the water hose that
>connects the heater box to the copper
>water return pipe on my BJ8.
>It looks like it will be very difficult to
>get at under the dash. Does anyone
>have any tips on the best way to do this?
>Thanks.
>Tom
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 23:46:23 -0500
Subject: high rpm updata phase 2
Hello everybody and a Healey New Year to all!
Just to pass along the latest on the poor running BN7 at high rpm
SHE AIN'T RUNNING POORLY NO MORE!!! Seems like the fiddling with the coil has
resolved the problem. She runs really well now. Smooth strong acceleration
when mashed to the floor and through all four gears. Great to have her back!
Look forward to cruising temperatures higher that the 30 degrees of today!
Special thanks to Perry and Michael Flaws on their suggestion to look at the
oil level in the dash pots. Front one had a little and rear one had none.
This probably hindered the running as well. I added a 50/50 mixture of 30 wt
and Marvel Mystery Oil for a thinner oil in these cooler temperatures.
Keith Pennell
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 16:11:00 +1100
Subject: Re: FW: Mk1 3000s Mk 1s Police Cars.
Dear Simon
Many thanks for taking the trouble of typing the article for us all to read.
Having some 300 emails to read on my return from holidays, I foound it most
interesting.
Austin-Healeys were never used as police pursuit cars in Australia. However
the police in our national capital of Canberra did use Daimler SP250s for
some
years to catch those speeding to Australia's snow fields.
Later Morris Cooper Ss were used very enthusiastically by the police in my
own
state of New South Wales. Unfortunately I came to personally know quite a
few
of them in my early days of driving.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
ps Where it's a very pleasant 29 degrees C.
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>>> Simon Lachlan 27/12/00 19:26:03 >>>
I was interested by an article in Roadster which I read the other
day. I shall reproduce some of it below. The area described is
where I live. ie the Police Station in question is 2 miles from
my house. (Devon, South west UK. Very rural area). This part of
Devon now has a large Motorway (Freeway to you'all!?), but in 61
that had not reached Devon. Nor would it for years. But, the West
of UK was and remains very popular with British holiday makers
who used to make best speed through central Devon on the A38 to
and from the North and South Devon and Cornwall coasts. Local
police forces used to employ "Chase cars" to help control things.
Mind you, I'm not sure if the 70mph max was in by then. Probably.
I don't know if this has been on the net before. If so-apologies.
I have barely touched the text. Some of it is a bit too "local
interest" to make much sense to you and you have to remember
that,
despite everything, the author was a young policeman-not a Works
mechanic...so forgive him for the mechanical fuel pump etc...
Article is headed with a photo of a Mk1 and goes on:_
"of one of the two Austin Healey 3000s operated by the Devon
Constabulary from about 1961/2 on. I was fortunate enough to be
part of the two-man crew at Cullompton, in 118HTT whilst the
other, 117HTT was at Exmouth. These cars were supplied by Pikes
of Exeter,the main Austin dealers and if my memory is correct,
they were the first thousand pound patrol cars after the Jaguar.
In those days the force carried a wide selection of vehicles with
little thought of the benefits of having a fleet of the same
manufacture. Apart from the two Healeys, there were Standard
Vanguards, a Riley Pathfinder, Ford Zephyrs, Vauxhalls, Bedford
Vans (or Flying Greenhouses as they were known), a Jaguar, an
Austin Mini Cooper and Austin A70s, A90s and A95s. As a two-man
team, we were expected to care for our vehicles and of course we
cherished them, looking after them with a sort of loving care.
Servicing was done at Exeter H.Q. under the Chief Mechanic,
Albert (can't think of his surname) and when we took the cars in,
we were expected to don overalls and assist in the servicing by
draining oil, removing and cleaning plugs and so on. We were
allocated 4 hours a week-normally Sunday mornings-to clean and
attend our car.
The Healey was a superb vehicle to drive, described as an
occasional 4 seater; in fact, the rear seats were hardly usable
as seats and had to carry our books ( and flasks of coffee etc)
so were hardly sat in. Taking prisoners proved to be a problem
especially the approved shool abscondees etc. On one occasion we
caught two, so one sat between us and theo ther on the lap of the
observer! Police markings were not possible owing to the fine
nature of the vehicle front although for some time we carried a
chrome bell as the only token of our identity as a police car.
The Healeys were fitted with a removable hard top, a folding soft
top and also a tonneau cover. We were very fortunate when in the
summer periods we were able to drive about open topped with our
chin straps down to keep our headgear on. Driving without caps
was most certainly not permitted. Being black, we were often able
to spot traffic offences which would have been avoided owing to
the presence of a properly marked police car, and we have even
been overtaken by coaches/lorries against double yellow lines.
Speeds of well over a ton were possible on the Waterloo Straight
near Willand and on the Rockbeare Straight- about the only roads
providing the opportunity in those days. We were often allocated
special jobs, such as following Eastern Bloc diplomats-as they
often took great amusen=ment by trying to lose their "tails".
They knew we were there and we knew that they knew- and when
handing them over on the Somerset border generally waved at each
other with smiles and vigour!
Of course, Cullompton was on the main A38, the main route into
the county for holiday makers from the North, Midlanda and Wales.
The use of the car on Saturdays was therefore not practical so we
were expected to take to two wheels-Triumph 350 or 500cc motor
cycles. These were issued at the start of the holiday season and
then returned to H.Q. at the end of the season...........
It was almost taboo for any other driver to take our prized
Healey out. Not many wanted to so because of the knack requied to
get in and get out of it, and of course in those days it was a
very fast car-probably the most potent in the force fleet. When
one was issued to Cullompton, I was still a novice driver, so
many assumed that I would be sent elsewhere. As a single man I
was expendable but remained to drive the new sprts car. Goodness
knows what the insurers would have costed out my cover at!
However, as I said, things were done differently in those days.
The car had little quirks of course. On one occasion I returned
from a spell of annual levae and took the car out on patrol in
the normal way. I hadn't seen or spoken to my co-driver prior to
my return. I drove into the Exeter boundary and was returning to
Cullompton when the car died on me. I coasted to a lay-by and
noticed that the the fuel was low and supposed that I had allowed
the car to run dry- a bad thing to do. I hailed a passing
motorist and asked him to call in at the nearest garage for them
to come to me with petrol. No sooner had this been done when the
radio called for me and directed me to nearby Pinhoe where q
burglar had been disturbed. I had to report a breakdown-but with
no mention of low fuel-and waited with growing anxiety. The
petrol arrived and still 118HTT refused to start. The Force
mechanic was summoned and when he arrived he simply banged the
floor behind the front seats and immediately the mechanical fuel
pump could be heard ticking away- and of course the car started.
Apparently my mate had experienced similar problems and forgot to
mention it to me.
On another occasion, the evening before a promotion examination
at Torquay, we were hit by as sudden snow storm which almost
prevented our return to Cullompton. After dealing with several
accidents we managed to make it back in the middle of the night
with the sump ploughing a furrow through the snow. She proved to
be a good stable car in those conditions owing to weight. We
found that even used in Police work, she returned high mileage on
the Michelin X tyres. Little or nothing of a major nature ever
went wrong with the car. There were no leakages or any teething
problems and the Healey proved to be very trouble-free.
The radio took a large percentage of the smnall boot area,
meaning that we were able to carry very little by way of
equipment, signs etc. When the car was new the old valve radios
were still on issue, and when the new transistor model came in,
it helped a little. Accident attendance was therefore a little
haphazard to say the least and we often relied on other cars or
the local sergeant, to attend with additional accident signing.
we attended some horrific accidents on the old A38, yet seemed to
manage somehow. I recall that one night we were on a convict
checkpoint in Cullompton main street in cold and snowy
conditions, when a motorist brought word of a series of bad
accidents at Burlescombe on the A38 in the blizzard conditions.
My mate remained at the checkpoint while I attended the accidents
on my own with no lights, signs or other aids. The scene was that
i shall never forget with cars in ditches etc and several injured
persons. How digfferent the situation is now but we were the only
car in the East of the county and had nobody else to call for
assistance.
On another occasion we were on the same checkpoint in the middle
of the night when a Healey came along driven by a girl with a
male passenger. They drove off towards Taunton and of course in
the stillness of the night we could hear the unbroken and
wonderful sound of the three litre engine. However, suddenly
there was the sound of a smash and, upon investigation, we founf
that the car had hit a wall, killing the driver. The passenger
tried to say that he had been driving (because of the insurance
situation and that the driver possessed no licence) but we were
able to rebut that knowing that it was impossible to change
places in a Healey while it was in motion! (or stationary for
that matter!!)
As far as I was concerned, it was a great privelege to have been
able to drive such a wonderful vehicle as part of my duties. The
sound of a 3000 engine is something which is still a great
pleasure to me, being quite unique even after nearly four
decades. I simply hope that 118HTT is still going strong. When I
left Cullompton she had recorded 70,000 miles and ,because of our
loving and dutiful care, the car looked as good as new. What her
final mileage in police service was I don't know- but the present
owner can take comfort in the knowledge that in her first years
of ownership she received nothing but care and respect."
From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 01:02:47 -0600
Subject: Re: Jet-Hot
Steve,
I'm sending my cast iron exhaust manifold to Jet-Hot for their new cast
iron-look gray coating. I have seen a sample and it looks like the original
naked cast iron.
Hold off and I should have it back in a week and will let you know how it turns
out.
I don't know about their claims of heat reduction; I just want the original
look w/o it rusting. The racing team my son works for has had there silver
coating on a Shelby GT 350 for 8 years and it still looks new. That sold me.
Stay tuned.
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
Steve Byers wrote:
> Hi, Michael, and Happy Healey New Year!
>
> I don't know about heat elimination, but the luster silver coating looks
> better than the rusted manifold I used to have. After 10,000 miles, there
> is no cracking, chipping, peeling, discoloration or any other defect in the
> coating that I can see.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Awgertoo@aol.com <Awgertoo@aol.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Monday, January 01, 2001 4:14 PM
> Subject: Jet-Hot
>
> >
> >I have heard big claims for this product insofar as heat elimination is
> >concerned and I would like to know what experiences any listers have had,
> >whether negative or positive.
> >
> >Thanks in advance--Michael Oritt, BN1
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 10:12:23 +0000
Subject: Re: Fan belt for 100
>An original BN1 fan belt I measured was 3/4" wide with a 46 3/4" outside
>circumference, marked MOWOG; 2H 4238
>
I agree with Rudi and can add more information.
The thickness is 1/2" (as opposed to the top width of 3/4")
The angle is 32 degrees.
The following are equivalents with the Outside Circumference Shown
I have fitted the following myself over the years
MOWOG(original) 2H4238 46 1/2" - 47"(Various - Measured)
FERODO V150 47 7/16"
FERODO V104 46 1/8"
ROMAC C 738 46 1/2"
MINTEX TK474 47"
This next group are claimed to be equivalents and I have no reason to
doubt this but have not proved these myself.
BTR 221 OR 415
DON 221, 415 or 336
DUNLOP D175
JB -32
RAYBESTOS R289
The reason I add the measurements above is that this is quite critical.
On a 100 there is little scope for varying lengths. If too short the
belt cannot be fitted without first part removing the dynamo/generator.
If too long the dynamo/generator cooling fan will cut into the bottom of
the top water hose. There also needs to be an allowance for belt wear
and for clearance below the hose when the engine moves on its mountings.
Incidentally the top hose can usually be fitted to allow maximum space
below it by rotating it a little before tightening the clips. However as
I say there is little scope for selecting a belt which is "about right".
Finally and for what it is worth I do know of somebody who got away with
using a Metric belt Semperit 20 x 1120. It worked but did not look
right!
All the best for 2001
--
John Harper
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 07:51:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Exhaust coatings
I had my machine shop ceramic coat mine with a spray on ceramic (thin)
material. They then backed it on at extreme temp... after a summer of
driving I have NO change in color...
jim Sailer
66 BJ8
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 10:52:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Frame Deflection
John,
Frame deflection, which I have always just called "sag," tends to be worst
on cars with severe rust. It is most obvious on cars that have been
subjected to winter highway salt, where the sills and outriggers
can get corroded to the point that only the top inch or so remains. If
your core is "rust-free," sag is not that much of a problem. One of the
best indicators I know of severe sag is bad door fit. If the back top
corner of the door does not line up properly with the rear shroud the
car has probably gotten banana shaped, and must be straightened first, and
the welding done with the engine, gearbox, and rear axle in place for best
results. On a car like the one you measured, with no alteration in the door
dimensions and no rust, you are probably OK without the
running gear in place, as long as those dimensions do not change once
the drive train is fitted. Congratulations, you got an easy one. I do,
however, recommend reinforcing the sills as a standard part of any Big
Healey restoration.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: John Snyder <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 6:40 PM
Subject: Frame Deflection
>
> Hello Listers, I have what may seem to be a dumb question, but here goes.
>
> Some months ago there was a discussion on whether the engine and
> transmission needed to be installed before fitting the body panels.
> Apparently the concern was that the frame would deflect with the weight of
> the engine and trans.
>
> I have done restorations both ways (although I admit that the one where
the
> panels were fitted w/o engine and trans still has to have the panels
> reinstalled for the final time...which is why I'm worried). Since I'm
> starting another restoration, I decided to get scientific and measure the
> gap between the Hinge Pillar and the Shut Pillar (Moss Catalog
terminology)
> near the top, on both sides of the car before and after the heavy stuff
was
> removed.
>
> There seems to be no significant difference! Am I missing something?
>
> This is a rust-free chassis, except for small areas of the rocker panels
> under the rear fender dog legs. I compared the above measurements to
those
> on the chassis done w/o the engine and trans, and they are the same also.
>
> John Snyder
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 11:21:24 EST
Subject: Re: Fan belt for 100
In a message dated 01/02/2001 7:28:25 AM Mountain Standard Time,
John@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
<<
>An original BN1 fan belt I measured was 3/4" wide with a 46 3/4" outside
>circumference, marked MOWOG; 2H 4238
> >>
John,
I have a NOS belt marked as you describe. It also has Made by the Goodyear
Tyre & Rubber Co. (great Britian) Ltd stamped on it.
There was NO WAY I could get it installed on my car!! it just wouldn't fit
over the pulleys. I don't remember if I tried after removing the dynamo, but
it sure would have been tight.
I jsut measured the NOS belt, using masking tape wrapped around the outer
circumfrence and then removed and laid against a tape measure. It is 45 5/8"
long. It also is just a "tad" over 7/16" thick.
By comparison, using the same method, the SC belt (which I noted was too wide
and thick) has an outer circumfrence of 47 3/8". It is allmost 9/16" thick.
I measured the one belt I found that fits and it has the following dimensions:
width 3/4"
thickness a "tad" over 7/16"
outer circumfrence 47 1/2"
So what do we make form all this? Is the NOS belt I have mis-labelled, and
really incorrect?
Did the NOS belt shrink that much over 50 years? I doubt it.
Still leaves the question of finding a paroper belt.
Roger
From dyaarl anderson <dyaarl at mediaone.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 11:55:34 -0500
Subject: Luggage rack
I would like to install a luggage rack on my Bn4. I want the large one
with the feet that attaches to the bottom of the trunk lid and the top
to the hinges. I need to know if there is a way of removing the hinge
pins without removing the hinges? I have just got my car back from the
restorers and don't want to damage the fresh paint job. What was used to
replace the old pins after they were removed ?
Cheers Dyaarl
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/x-pkcs7-signature which
had a name of smime.p7s]
From Norman Cay <normcay at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 09:19:58 -0800
Subject: early BN1 side screens
To the healey list in general. I have made a cad drawing of my one-piece
'perspex'
side screen and can send it to anyone that wants it. I drew it in CadKey (.prt)
and
have included it in a zip file with dxf and dwg formats. If anyone wants me to
send
them the file (175K), let me know.
Norm Cay - BN1, BN2, MKII 3.8 Jag, Triumph TR6R
ynotink wrote:
> Norman,
>
>
> The AutoCAD drawing looks great. now if I can find the channel and maybe
>someone
> to do a little casting and brazing I should be in business.
>
> Thanks for your attention to this and I will keep you informed if I make any
> progress.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> Norman Cay wrote:
>
> > Bill, I put drawings in dxf and dwg format in the included zip file. I am
> > assuming that you can use the Acad 14 to pick off the dimensions you need,
>if
> > not let me know and I can elaborate on the drawing and add dimensions. The
> > drawings are correct to scale. Let me know if you need more info or have
> > trouble opening the files.
> > Norm
> >
> > ynotink wrote:
> >
> > > Norm,
> > >
> > > That would be great. I live in Albuquerque and I have access to AutoCAD
> > > release 14. My car number is 554 so this sounds like the correct item. If
> > > you can draw them up and send the files across the internet I would be in
> > > your debt.
> > >
> > > Thank you.
> > >
> > > Bill Lawrence
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 09:26:01 -0800
Subject: Re: Fan belt for 100
Just wondering about this belt comparison, do they all have the same
included angle of the V? Back when I used to sell hardware and electrical
motors, matching the angle of the V-belt to the pulley was at least as
important as the length and width. Is it possible that over the years the
angle of the belt sidewall has changed?
Just a thought.
----------------------------------------------
At 08:21 AM 1/2/2001, you wrote:
>In a message dated 01/02/2001 7:28:25 AM Mountain Standard Time,
>John@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
>
><<
> >An original BN1 fan belt I measured was 3/4" wide with a 46 3/4" outside
> >circumference, marked MOWOG; 2H 4238
> > >>
>
>John,
>
>I have a NOS belt marked as you describe. It also has Made by the Goodyear
>Tyre & Rubber Co. (great Britian) Ltd stamped on it.
>
>There was NO WAY I could get it installed on my car!! it just wouldn't fit
>over the pulleys. I don't remember if I tried after removing the dynamo, but
>it sure would have been tight.
>
>I jsut measured the NOS belt, using masking tape wrapped around the outer
>circumfrence and then removed and laid against a tape measure. It is 45 5/8"
>long. It also is just a "tad" over 7/16" thick.
>
>By comparison, using the same method, the SC belt (which I noted was too wide
>and thick) has an outer circumfrence of 47 3/8". It is allmost 9/16" thick.
>
>I measured the one belt I found that fits and it has the following dimensions:
>
>width 3/4"
>thickness a "tad" over 7/16"
>outer circumfrence 47 1/2"
>
>So what do we make form all this? Is the NOS belt I have mis-labelled, and
>really incorrect?
>
>Did the NOS belt shrink that much over 50 years? I doubt it.
>
>Still leaves the question of finding a paroper belt.
>
>Roger
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 14:51:07 EST
Subject: Re: Frame Deflection
For what it's worth, Ihave a pphotocopy of an article on the Jensen paint
line published in a trade journal in August 1956. It shows 100 bodies being
painted ont he "line". As they go throught he various booths they are
suspended from the ends on individual spits.
WHile I don't believe they were held this way when welded up, if they were
"soft" and prone to sagging, I doubt they would be held in this manner lest
any set form sagging occur.
Roger
From "AH102 at home.com" <ah102@home.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 14:59:27 -0500
Subject: Healey 100 racecar available
A non-list friend of mine has the following Healey for sale.
For Sale: Austin-Healey 100 BN1 vintage racecar. VSCCA Logbook, All safety
mods and lots of legal go-fast goodies including LeMans carbs. Ready to race.
White and red, and has all parts to convert back to street. Car located near
Cincinnati. This is not a commercial offering, and I have no financial
interest.
Contact me off list if interested.
Jim
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 15:06:02 EST
Subject: Re: Fan belt for 100
I haven't got a way to measure the angles on the various belts I reported on.
Obviously, angle is a fourth important parameter, beyond thickness, width
and circumference.
Roger
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 21:55:38 +0100
Subject: Re: Luggage rack
Subject: Luggage rack
> I need to know if there is a way of removing the hinge
> pins without removing the hinges? >
> Cheers Dyaarl
> [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/x-pkcs7-signature
>which had a name of smime.p7s]
Hi there..... yes it IS possible..... but be SURE you KNOW which way you pry
them out..... had to do it the wrong way myself..........
There is a slilght difference in diameter on the pin. When you find the minor
one.. thats where to pry it out using a dowelpin remover. Whatever you do...
the OTHER way around is NO success..... Oh well... I got two new hinges on..
looking great..;)
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7-witharack
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 13:20:04 -0800
Subject: Re: Frame Deflection
I will have to let Mr Finespanner answer this one. On the last
restoration, the body shop replaced the side sills while the engine and
trans were out, the frame was good (and as I said in the original message,
the dimensions after the engine and trans were installed look correct).
The sills on the current restoration look great, so I'm not going to do
anything to them.
John Snyder
----------
> From: Pepperell Pepper Patch <pppatch@pppatch.com>
> To: Mr. Finespanner <MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net>; John Snyder
<johnahsn@olypen.com>
> Cc: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: Frame Deflection
> Date: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 10:51 AM
>
> John,
> How does one reinforce the sills? I'm replacing mine (with the lump
still
> in - just in case). I've got the new metal on the off side tacked in at
> both ends. I haven't removed the old metal on the near side yet.
>
> My big problem in getting everything lined back up (I removed the sill,
the
> front outrigger and the rear shut piece(B pillar?)) was that the scuttle
> dropped and twisted when it was released from the sill. This left me
with
> the dreaded door gap problem (none at the top, lots at the bottom). In
> trying to fix it I moved the jack stands from one extreme on the frame to
> the other trying to get it to flex, but the door gap dimensions never
> budged a bit.
>
> It's a Calif car and the main frame is fine. My guess is it's pretty
rigid
> and I could have removed the motor. However, I'll let some else
experiment
> with their car.
>
> Cheers,
> Mike Tobin
> Pepperell, Mass
> A garage full of BT7 parts
>
> At 10:52 AM 1/2/2001 -0500, Mr. Finespanner wrote:
> >
> >John,
> >Frame deflection, which I have always just called "sag," tends to be
worst
> >on cars with severe rust. It is most obvious on cars that have been
> >subjected to winter highway salt, where the sills and outriggers
> >can get corroded to the point that only the top inch or so remains. If
> >your core is "rust-free," sag is not that much of a problem. One of the
> >best indicators I know of severe sag is bad door fit. If the back top
> >corner of the door does not line up properly with the rear shroud the
> >car has probably gotten banana shaped, and must be straightened first,
and
> >the welding done with the engine, gearbox, and rear axle in place for
best
> >results. On a car like the one you measured, with no alteration in the
door
> >dimensions and no rust, you are probably OK without the
> >running gear in place, as long as those dimensions do not change once
> >the drive train is fitted. Congratulations, you got an easy one. I do,
> >however, recommend reinforcing the sills as a standard part of any Big
> >Healey restoration.
> >Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: John Snyder <johnahsn@olypen.com>
> >To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 6:40 PM
> >Subject: Frame Deflection
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Hello Listers, I have what may seem to be a dumb question, but here
goes.
> >>
> >> Some months ago there was a discussion on whether the engine and
> >> transmission needed to be installed before fitting the body panels.
> >> Apparently the concern was that the frame would deflect with the
weight of
> >> the engine and trans.
> >>
> >> I have done restorations both ways (although I admit that the one
where
> >the
> >> panels were fitted w/o engine and trans still has to have the panels
> >> reinstalled for the final time...which is why I'm worried). Since I'm
> >> starting another restoration, I decided to get scientific and measure
the
> >> gap between the Hinge Pillar and the Shut Pillar (Moss Catalog
> >terminology)
> >> near the top, on both sides of the car before and after the heavy
stuff
> >was
> >> removed.
> >>
> >> There seems to be no significant difference! Am I missing something?
> >>
> >> This is a rust-free chassis, except for small areas of the rocker
panels
> >> under the rear fender dog legs. I compared the above measurements to
> >those
> >> on the chassis done w/o the engine and trans, and they are the same
also.
> >>
> >> John Snyder
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 21:06:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Jaguar Manual
Sorry,
That should be Series 3.......
On Sat, 30 Dec 2000 20:48:20 -0500 dwflagg@juno.com writes:
>
> Have available an absolutely beautiful copy of the Jaguar Series #
> E-Type, open 2-seater Illustrated Parts Catalogue, which was
> distributed
> by Auto Book Center. If interested please contact me off the list.
> Thanks.
>
> Doug
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 14:54:11 -0800
Subject: I need a new boot
And not in the pants....
I need a new boot for my 1965 BJ8. Any ideas where I can have one made
in Black? in So Cal?
Any Ideas at what the price would be?
Ron Rader
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
rader.vcf]
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 18:11:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Frame Deflection
Roger,
I agree with you that the bodies were not soft and prone to sagging when
new. It's only when they become badly corroded over time that
the sag shows up. I suspect that most of the cars with this problem have
been scrapped, exported, repaired, or re-chassis'd by this time.
The majority of the sagged cars I've seen have been in the northeast
(Virginia to Maine) where salt is used extensively on the highways in
winter.
Those owners fortunate enough to have a rot-free car will probably never
have anything to worry about in that department.
Doug, 18G
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: <MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 2:51 PM
Subject: Re: Frame Deflection
>
> For what it's worth, Ihave a pphotocopy of an article on the Jensen paint
> line published in a trade journal in August 1956. It shows 100 bodies
being
> painted ont he "line". As they go throught he various booths they are
> suspended from the ends on individual spits.
> WHile I don't believe they were held this way when welded up, if they were
> "soft" and prone to sagging, I doubt they would be held in this manner
lest
> any set form sagging occur.
>
> Roger
From "popkapsule" <pkna at popkapsule.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 20:20:09 -0600
Subject: Limited Edition Austin Healey Fine Art Litho
Hello and Happy New Year!
I am new to the list and wanted to post a general message to all...
We have some limited edition fine art lithographs (500) of the Austin Healey
3000 series.
Please feel free to take a peek here...
http://www.popkapsule.com/gallery.htm
If anyone is interested in the lithograph, please email bpm@popkapsule.com
or call me at 508.347.7277 x205.
Thank you,
Bonny
POPKAPSULE NORTH ATLANTIK
v: 508.347.7277
f: 508.347.8777
w: www.popkapsule.com
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
austin[1].jpg]
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 20:19:16 EST
Subject: Re: 100M Original Cost
The following is quoted from Brooklands Books "AUSTIN-HEALEY 100 and 3000
Collection No. 1" pages 18 & 19.
ROAD & TRACK ROAD TEST NO. F-3-56
AUSTIN-HEALEY 100M
List Price-$3275
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 19:19:07 -0600
Subject: non list
<<Jacksonville Fl. >>
Sorry Listers:
Dyaarl:
When you turn off that DA*NED digitial thingy, I will be happy to reply.
Ed
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 15:52:16 EST
Subject: Re: Luggage rack
The hinge pins are pinched/splined on one end so that they tap into place and
are held by the splines. If you look closely at the ends, you should be able
to see which end is splined. By using a slim punch, you should be able to
tap the pin on the opposite end from the splines and then slide it out. Then
you can put the bolts through and mount the luggage rack. I've never had to
remove my hinges to get the pins out.
Be VERY careful, of course, not to lose the pins. I'm not sure where you'd
get replacements.
Cheers
Gary
In a message dated 1/2/01 8:57:22 AM, dyaarl@mediaone.net writes:
<< I want the large one
with the feet that attaches to the bottom of the trunk lid and the top
to the hinges. I need to know if there is a way of removing the hinge
pins without removing the hinges? I have just got my car back from the
restorers and don't want to damage the fresh paint job. What was used to
replace the old pins after they were removed ? >>
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 21:01:31 EST
Subject: Re: Luggage rack
Several of our club members have fitted the factory style luggage rack with
an interesting modification. Normally the rack sits rather high in a
horizontal level to the car. They have shortened the legs in the rear to
bring the rack down closer to the car and I think it gives it a less
obtrusive look.
Just happen to have a photo on the club web site at bluegrassclub.com if you
would like to see it.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 21:51:42 -0500
Subject: re. re. nutty ques.
Gary,
Thanks for the input on the coil bracket. There were no real traces of paint
on the 67 but I will go out to my 64 and look there too. One would like to
believe the nuts were fastened without the bracket, painted, then removed
for the coil and bracket to be installed. Bracket would look sharp in healey
green against alum. coil though ! Will check out and let list know
Carroll
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 22:08:23 -0500
Subject: re frame deflection
Yes, I too would agree with the fact that when new cars were extremely
strong and could be suspended from their for and aft mountings.
However whenever replacing major componens to the frame,i.e. frame rails
,side sills and posts( especially together) the frame should be unsprung
(with out engine wieght) that when wieght is re introduced the natural flex
of the frame would be again( as built ) from new.
Carroll Top Down Restorations
From James A Baustian <jabaustian at networksplus.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 21:06:31 -0600
Subject: Side Curtains - BN1 with hardtop
Listers
It is a long story but I wound up with a set of side curtains for a hard top
that fits a BN1. I would like to dispose of them to a source that could put
them to good use since I have been unable to find the hard top. Is anyone
interested?
Jim Baustian
BN1
AN8
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 22:35:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Luggage rack
I agree with Gary on everything except that rather than the slim punch I
would try with a slim wood dowel first.
Keith Pennell
> The hinge pins are pinched/splined on one end so that they tap into place
and
> are held by the splines. If you look closely at the ends, you should be
able
> to see which end is splined. By using a slim punch, you should be able to
> tap the pin on the opposite end from the splines and then slide it out.
Then
> you can put the bolts through and mount the luggage rack. I've never had
to
> remove my hinges to get the pins out.
> Be VERY careful, of course, not to lose the pins. I'm not sure where you'd
> get replacements.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 23:09:32 -0500
Subject: RE: Heater Hose
I did the hoses on my BJ7 without removing the heater box.
As I recall, I did remove the defroster hoses which made it
a bit easier to install the hot water hoses. Then I had a
heck of a time getting the defroster hoses back in.
Small hands and a generous helping of patience help.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Steve Byers
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 9:58 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Heater Hose
Hi, Tom -
I don't think you can replace the hose without removing the console and
dropping the heater box down for access. Unfortunately, I think that also
means you have to disconnect the heater control cables to the water valve
and air inlet duct butterfly valve because they are too stiff and short to
allow the heater box to move very far unless disconnected. I could be wrong
about that. You could see what kind of access you have before disconnecting
the control cables.
If disconnection is necessary, I recommend you move the heater slide lever
and the hot air control knob to an extreme position and note the position of
the water valve and butterfly levers before disconnecting them. That will
make it easier to put them back where they were.
Another recommendation would be to replace both hoses while you have the
heater box lowered.
Happy Healey New Year!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Thomas Mulligan <tpmul@worldnet.att.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, January 01, 2001 8:58 PM
Subject: Heater Hose
>
>I need to replace the water hose that
>connects the heater box to the copper
>water return pipe on my BJ8.
>It looks like it will be very difficult to
>get at under the dash. Does anyone
>have any tips on the best way to do this?
>Thanks.
>Tom
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 20:22:52 -0800
Subject: Re: I need a new boot
Beat me to it....I was just thinking as I opened the mail...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
To: "Healey, List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 2:54 PM
Subject: I need a new boot
>
> And not in the pants....
> I need a new boot for my 1965 BJ8. Any ideas where I can have one made
> in Black? in So Cal?
> Any Ideas at what the price would be?
>
> Ron Rader
>
> [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name
of rader.vcf]
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 23:41:18 -0500
Subject: Luggage rack
Sorry to butt in,
but the best wayI have found to keep the hinge castings undamaged is
to lay them onto a piece of soft wood (pine) and tap the pin out with
a metal drift (punch) of the exact diameter of the pin. It helps if
the piecece of wood is angled or whittled to fit the casting. This
should embed the pin in the wood, keeping it safe for a reversal of
the procedure in the future.
Alain Giguhre
BN7
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 23:43:22 -0500
Subject: Heater Hoses
I have heard liquid soap helps get the hoses through the firewall,
though I'm not there yet...
Alain Giguhre
BN7
From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 22:10:35 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Forwarded message
For some reason, this was sent to me rather than healeys@autox.team.net.
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: "RANDALL NEVIS" <randallt@uswest.net>
Subject: Reinforcing the Sills?
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 20:56:20 -0800
Doug Sills,
I am getting to the point of replaceing some parts, you spoke of reinforcing
the sills, I would like to know more. There is an inner and a intermed sill
correct? Which one and how are they reinforced? Could you provide a diagram
or a picture?
Randall Nevis
------- End of forwarded message -------
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 21:09:36 -0800
Subject: Finally getting started with the disassembly
Well, with a new year starts new beginnings. I bought a digital camcorder
(miniDV) and started documenting the disassembly. I know myself well enough
to not even pretend that I might remember how this goes back together in a
few years... So I'm recording as I go.
I took apart the dash, removing the instruments and controls. I wanted to
get started with something "manageable". The dash is currently covered with
a blue vinyl that was applied sometime in the early 70's. Instruments are
dusty-rusty so those will get sent out for refurbishment. I was amazed at
how long it took me to unroute the water temp sender from the engine
compartment and through the firewall! All 88 inches of it!
You'd think this car would be in better original condition then it is. Made
in '55, father in law bought in ~'65, threw a rod in ~'68, blown overdrive
in ~'69, front-end damage that never got fully repaired, thus kept the car
garaged since ~'71... originally red, resprayed blue (notice I didn't say
"repainted"), blue cut-pile carpets, blue vinyl upholstery and dash
covering... Somebody encourage me, I think I'm going to need it.
Brad
'55 Hundred
BN1 #226796
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 21:41:36 -0800
Subject: I need a boot, part II
Listers:
Please let me star again.
I am looking to purchase a black "Top Stowage Cover" which used to cover
the folded down top on the BJ8.
Moss calls this a top stowage cover. I thought it was a boot for the
top.
Has anyone bought this part from Moss? How did it fit? Is it "correct"?
Do you have to install all of the fasteners? Should I get a "Stowage
bag" to store the cover in, or is that overkill?
TIA
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 22:48:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Finally getting started with the disassembly
I'll encourage you if you'll encourage me! I need one more cash infusion to
put my BN1 on the road. Anyone need a Landrover?
Bill Lawrence
Brad Weldon wrote:
> Well, with a new year starts new beginnings. I bought a digital camcorder
> (miniDV) and started documenting the disassembly. I know myself well enough
> to not even pretend that I might remember how this goes back together in a
> few years... So I'm recording as I go.
>
> I took apart the dash, removing the instruments and controls. I wanted to
> get started with something "manageable". The dash is currently covered with
> a blue vinyl that was applied sometime in the early 70's. Instruments are
> dusty-rusty so those will get sent out for refurbishment. I was amazed at
> how long it took me to unroute the water temp sender from the engine
> compartment and through the firewall! All 88 inches of it!
>
> You'd think this car would be in better original condition then it is. Made
> in '55, father in law bought in ~'65, threw a rod in ~'68, blown overdrive
> in ~'69, front-end damage that never got fully repaired, thus kept the car
> garaged since ~'71... originally red, resprayed blue (notice I didn't say
> "repainted"), blue cut-pile carpets, blue vinyl upholstery and dash
> covering... Somebody encourage me, I think I'm going to need it.
>
> Brad
> '55 Hundred
> BN1 #226796
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 22:27:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Intake manifold
Gary: Did you see what The List did to my spelling. I just red my massage
again with your response and "bare" was changed to "bear". I'm sure I
wouldn't make a misteak like that! And my spell checker says this message
is OK, too.
But your answer does create another question. Not that I am planning to
enter Concours, but for the purists, should one PRIME and PAINT the intake
manifold green or, since it would have peeled off by the time one drove to
the Meet if it were not primed, just leave it BARE metal?
Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 8:57 AM
Subject: Re: Intake manifold
>
> In a message dated 1/1/01 9:45:51 PM, thehartnetts@earthlink.net writes:
>
> << Gary: Interesting. I acquired my '67 BJ8 with less than 15,000 mile
on
> the
>
> odo. I do not believe that my intake manifold has ever had any green
paint
>
> on it. It has always been bear metal as long as I have owned it. Len.
>>
>
> didn't know you were cruising the list. Since the metal wasn't primed,
our
> view is that it probably flaked off from the heat within days or weeks of
> delivery. It wasn't painted with any intention of staying there -- just
was
> easier to paint the whole thing after assembly.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 07:06:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Fan belt for 100
Thanks Roger and Rudi Markl:
I bought a new belt from a major Healey supplier here in the states a couple
years ago and just got around to installing it; it is way to tight, it
measured 43". The old belt that was on my car was a Gates Truck & Bus
698-T. I do not know the dimensions of this belt and could not get a good
cross reference from NAPA. I did find a belt at NAPA part no. 24457
measuring 461/4 x 11/16 wide. I'm satisfied with its fit for my car ( just
a driver).
lance
54 bn1
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: Fan belt for 100
> In a message dated 01/01/2001 10:58:27 AM Mountain Standard Time,
> brshwrks@bellatlantic.net writes:
>
> <<
> Hello and Happy New Year all:
> Question, what fan belt are you guys using for a bn1? NAPA number,
Gates,
> Dayco? TIA
> lance
> 54 bn1 >>
>
> This is a non-trivial question. First, I know of NO correct fan belt sold
by
> anyone. There are three dimensions to consider, and how the belt fits
> depends on their interrelationship. There is the width, the thicness, and
> the length.
>
> Ideally, the belt will ride in the pulleys with the outer surface flush
with
> the edge of the pulley. If the belt is too wide by just a few thousandths
it
> will ride up (befause of the effect of geometry and the pulley angles) and
> stick above the edge of the pulley. If the belt is too thick, while the
> outer surface may ride properly, the ID will be on the small side and you
> will not be able to slip it over the pulleys without removing the
generator
> mounting bolts to allow the generator to rotate inwards a bit.
>
> And the length will affect again whether you can install it without
removing
> the generator or whether it will tighten before you run out of slot on the
> adjustment link.
>
> The SC belt is a bit too wide and thick. It rides aobut 1/32 - 1/16"
high,
> and the ID is too small to fit over the pulleys without removing the
> generator mount bolts. But once installed, it will last forever and
doesn't
> look all that bad. The correct width at the outer surface is 3/4". The
SC
> belt is 13/16".
>
> I don't know how other belts fit that are for sale.
>
> I did go to Beaulieu about three years ago and pawed through boxes of old
> belts under tables at a number of stalls. Out of my search I found ONE
belt
> of the proper dimensions to fit the pulley and allow itself to be
installed
> without having to remove the generator. I also have a NOS belt that fits
the
> pulleys, but is too short and thus you have to remove the generator to
> install it. Has the correct BMC part number stamped on it and everything.
>
> For convenience, you could try a belt from a US Healey parets supplier and
> return it if it doesn't work. I don't know of any part numbers for Gates
or
> NAPA that will work. We checked this out fairly thoroughly some years
back.
>
> At one time I thought someone said they knew of a source fot he correct
belt,
> but it was like $30.00. I didn't want to spend that much on an experiment
as
> I had a belt that will last me forever anyway.
>
> Let us know what you find out.
>
> Roger
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 10:01:15 EST
Subject: Re: Intake manifold
In a message dated 01/02/2001 11:29:16 PM Mountain Standard Time,
thehartnetts@earthlink.net writes:
<<
But your answer does create another question. Not that I am planning to
enter Concours, but for the purists, should one PRIME and PAINT the intake
manifold green or, since it would have peeled off by the time one drove to
the Meet if it were not primed, just leave it BARE metal?
>>
I ran mly maifolds just gray SS paint for years. Prepped the maifiolds first
by sand blasting.
Then, a year + ago I painted the 3000 maifold engine green. Did this
directly over the aged SS paint. The engine green will discolor from the
heat, but I believe this preparation/sequence may result in it not flaking
off.
Roger
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 07:58:00 -0500
Subject: Re: I need a boot, part II
Ron,
Now that I know what you want I think I have an excellent original. Let
me check when I get home this evening. It is black.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
On Tue, 02 Jan 2001 21:41:36 -0800 Ron Rader <rader@interworld.net>
writes:
>
>Listers:
>Please let me star again.
>I am looking to purchase a black "Top Stowage Cover" which used to
>cover
>the folded down top on the BJ8.
>Moss calls this a top stowage cover. I thought it was a boot for the
>top.
>Has anyone bought this part from Moss? How did it fit? Is it
>"correct"?
>Do you have to install all of the fasteners? Should I get a "Stowage
>bag" to store the cover in, or is that overkill?
>TIA
>Ron Rader
>1965 BJ8
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 10:23:13 EST
Subject: Tom Mason's e-mail address
Does anyone have a good e-mail address for Tom Mason who advertises videos
for overdrive, SU Carb and Healey 6 overhauls in the Austin Healey Magazine?
Thanks
John Stevens
"Ruby" BJ8 27621
JohnbS7257@aol.com
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 10:39:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Heater Hoses
Alain,
Try silicone dielectric compound, or dielectric silicone compound as it
is sometimes called. I've never found anything better for fitting rubber
parts, including hoses and grommets.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: Alain Giguhre <agig@sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 11:43 PM
Subject: Heater Hoses
>
> I have heard liquid soap helps get the hoses through the firewall,
> though I'm not there yet...
>
> Alain Giguhre
> BN7
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 08:56:09 -0700
Subject: Fw: BMC Gold &Silver Seals
Subject: Fw: BMC Gold &Silver Seals
> Subject: BMC Gold &Silver Seals
>
>
> > List Historians,
> > .
> > BMC had a parts replacement program, either Gold (new factory part(s) )
> or
> > Silver (re-conditioned parts). I have a "Silver" seal decal and I have
> > always assumed there must be a corresponding "Gold" decal or emblem. The
> > question is does anyone know of or have you ever seen one or know were
one
> might find one?
> > Any ideas?
> > Happy New Year Dave
> >
> > Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> > 59 AH :{) 54 BN1
> >
> > Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> >
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 09:07:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Heater Hoses
Alain,
Try plain old Amorall, it greatly helps when fitting hoses or removing.
Works pretty well on windshield seals and such as well. Leaves no residue.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net>
To: "Alain Giguhre" <agig@sympatico.ca>
Cc: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 8:39 AM
Subject: Re: Heater Hoses
>
> Alain,
> Try silicone dielectric compound, or dielectric silicone compound as it
> is sometimes called. I've never found anything better for fitting rubber
> parts, including hoses and grommets.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Alain Giguhre <agig@sympatico.ca>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 11:43 PM
> Subject: Heater Hoses
>
>
> >
> > I have heard liquid soap helps get the hoses through the firewall,
> > though I'm not there yet...
> >
> > Alain Giguhre
> > BN7
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 11:44:36 EST
Subject: Holdens
I referred someone yesterday to Holdens in the UK to order Smiths gauges.
According to their catalog, they do stock them, as well as nearly every
imaginable piece of gear that connects to the car with a wire.
Contact is www.holdens.co.uk
email holden@holden.co.uk
They are not currently an advertiser in British Car Magazine.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 11:56:45 EST
Subject: Re: Intake manifold
In a message dated 1/2/01 10:29:16 PM, thehartnetts@earthlink.net writes:
<< But your answer does create another question. Not that I am planning to
enter Concours, but for the purists, should one PRIME and PAINT the intake
manifold green or, since it would have peeled off by the time one drove to
the Meet if it were not primed, just leave it BARE metal?
Len. >>
I talked about this point the other day. It's one of those funny little
inconsistencies we concours nuts are famous for. Since the cars are to be
judged to the standard of "what they looked like when they left the dealer"
but we also encourage people to drive their cars, we recommend that they use
a primer and high-temp metal paint on the exhaust system and a primer on the
intake manifold before painting the proper colors (engine green, or flat
black for muffler and pipes). That way the car will keep its same
"as-manufactured" appearance for as long as possible.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Chairman, AH Concours Registry
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 12:03:22 EST
Subject: Re: Heater Hoses
In a message dated 1/3/01 7:59:05 AM, frogeye@gateway.net writes:
<< Alain,
Try plain old Amorall, it greatly helps when fitting hoses or removing.
Works pretty well on windshield seals and such as well. Leaves no residue.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerqu >>
Just be very careful not to spray Armorall anywhere near where you might be
painting since it has a large silicone content and will cause fish-eye
problems with paint. When I'm doing hoses and seals, I just reach for the
liquid dish washing soap.
Cheers
Gary
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 10:23:39 -0800
Subject: RE: Holdens
Looks like the url should be www.holden.co.uk (not holdens)
Brad
'55 Hundred
BN1 #226796
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Editorgary@aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 8:45 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Holdens
>
>
>
> I referred someone yesterday to Holdens in the UK to order Smiths
> gauges.
> According to their catalog, they do stock them, as well as nearly every
> imaginable piece of gear that connects to the car with a wire.
>
> Contact is www.holdens.co.uk
> email holden@holden.co.uk
>
> They are not currently an advertiser in British Car Magazine.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> Editor, British Car
From "Malcolm Bruce" <malcolm at procurcorp.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 15:28:29 -0500
Subject: healey keys
Need some info on BJ8 keys as my recent acquisition has none.
1. source for keys if I supply the lock #
2. What other locks did the ignition key fit?
3. Did the glovebox key fit any other lock?
Thanks for any assistance.
Mal Bruce
BJ8 MGC
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 12:37:35 -0800
Subject: Re: Holdens
FYI--they charge over $6 for a catalog. ("Total cost: # 4.00 [ex VAT and
shipping where applicable]"). It's hard to do business with a company like
that. John Trifari 1955 BN1/1965 BJ8
Brad Weldon wrote:
> Looks like the url should be www.holden.co.uk (not holdens)
>
> Brad
> '55 Hundred
> BN1 #226796
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Editorgary@aol.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 8:45 AM
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Holdens
> >
> >
> >
> > I referred someone yesterday to Holdens in the UK to order Smiths
> > gauges.
> > According to their catalog, they do stock them, as well as nearly every
> > imaginable piece of gear that connects to the car with a wire.
> >
> > Contact is www.holdens.co.uk
> > email holden@holden.co.uk
> >
> > They are not currently an advertiser in British Car Magazine.
> >
> > Cheers
> > Gary Anderson
> > Editor, British Car
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 15:43:43 EST
Subject: Re: Tom Mason's e-mail address
Thanks to those who answered my e-mail. I have tried the tommason@juno.com a
couple of times and received bounces both times.
John Stevens
"Ruby" BJ8 27621
JohnbS7257@aol.com
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 16:31:30 -0500
Subject: Re: I need a boot, part II
Ron,
I bought a "top stowage cover" for my BJ8 from Moss last year. The fit was
fine and it seems to be a good, heavy grade of vinyl that should last a long
time with care. It came with all the necessary fasteners, but I had to
install the fasteners myself. That isn't particularly difficult to do, but
I had already installed a convertible top on a Midget and my BJ8 and a
tonneau on the Midget. As with anything else, experience helps. For the
button snaps, you need an installation tool (I think I got mine at Home
Depot for a few bucks).
If you decide to install it yourself and you need detailed advice on placing
the fasteners, we can talk you through it.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Rader <rader@interworld.net>
To: Healey, List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 1:38 AM
Subject: I need a boot, part II
>
>Listers:
>Please let me star again.
>I am looking to purchase a black "Top Stowage Cover" which used to cover
>the folded down top on the BJ8.
>Moss calls this a top stowage cover. I thought it was a boot for the
>top.
>Has anyone bought this part from Moss? How did it fit? Is it "correct"?
>Do you have to install all of the fasteners? Should I get a "Stowage
>bag" to store the cover in, or is that overkill?
>TIA
>Ron Rader
>1965 BJ8
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 17:24:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Intake manifold
For anyone wanting to paint the INTAKE manifold -
The spray can Healey engine green paint sold by Moss is self-priming. I
painted my manifold with it along with the engine, and like the Jet-Hot
stuff on the exhaust manifold, the paint has neither cracked, chipped,
discolored, peeled, etc. in 10,000 miles. The most important thing in
painting any surface is getting it absolutely clean before painting and not
touching it with bare skin until after it's painted. I think I used 3M wax
and grease remover on the manifold, followed by a soap and water wash and
rinse, followed by a metal prep solution, followed by a through rinse and
dry before painting. The paint is somewhat heat resistant, and the intake
manifold doesn't get hotter than the Moss paint can take, but the cleaning
process is crucial.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Marge and/or Len Hartnett <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: Healeys Mailing List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 1:47 AM
Subject: Re: Intake manifold
>
>But your answer does create another question. Not that I am planning to
>enter Concours, but for the purists, should one PRIME and PAINT the intake
>manifold green or, since it would have peeled off by the time one drove to
>the Meet if it were not primed, just leave it BARE metal?
>
>Len.
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 18:47:08 EST
Subject: Healey Videos
One of my current projects is to develop a Club Video Library. I'm donating
the following from my personal collection and have a club budget to buy more.
Any suggestions on what to get? I have a promise on the History Channel tape
and also the Speed runs.
How about the Tom Mason tapes? Any others out there that I may not be aware
of and should consider?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1990 Healey Team ChallengebProfessionally made documentary of the North
American tour
White Post Restorationsbpromotional tape showing White Post shops and
craftsman. PM
Austin Healey Interview 1991bGerry Coker and Brian Healey answer questions
at
the West Coast Meet.
Just in TimebFollow Geoff Healey as he examines Fred Hunterbs 100-S and
recognizes it as a preproduction car also.
1991 ConclavebProfessionally made tape of Conclave in Sturbridge Village
1993 Conclave Professionally made documentation of the Bluegrass Clubs own.
Targa Floria 1965bproduced as a promotional film for Castrol. Timo Makinen
drives the course in a big Healey
Classic Rallying 1960/62bHighlights of the Monte Carlo rally 1960 and the
1962 Alpine Rally
BJ7 & BJ8 Soft Trim Installation VideosbMoss Motors
Healeyb The Man , The Marque, The Machine The story of Donald Healey and his
cars
SU Carb Overhaul, Tuning and MaintenancebLaurie Anderson explains SU tuning
Project Big Healey - Follow the restoration of a 3000 in England.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
From "Gary Patterson" <gpatt1 at home.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 18:14:51 -0500
Subject: Re: healey keys
I got these addresses from previous posts on the list, althought I don't
have any personal knowledge of either of them:
1. "Mr. Jamie Coobatis in Michigan has a large selection of original
NOS ignition keys. Send him the number on your lock and perhaps he can
find your key. He charges about $6.00 per key. Jamie Coobatis, 34730
7Mile Rd.,Livonia, Mi 48152-4032. Or can be contacted at
Coobatis@aol.com "
2. "Pete Groh (based in Maryland) and his website is at:
http://www.mit.edu/people/zimerman/petegroh.html "
Gary Patterson
66 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Malcolm Bruce" <malcolm@procurcorp.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 3:28 PM
Subject: healey keys
>
> Need some info on BJ8 keys as my recent acquisition has none.
>
> 1. source for keys if I supply the lock #
>
> 2. What other locks did the ignition key fit?
>
> 3. Did the glovebox key fit any other lock?
>
> Thanks for any assistance.
>
> Mal Bruce
> BJ8 MGC
From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 19:32:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Heater Hoses
Sure does. Tried to do mine without and almost impossible. The rubber
grommet goes with the hose which ever direction you are pushing the hose
. With the soap the hose once started just slides though the grommet.
Bill Pollock
Alain Giguhre wrote:
> I have heard liquid soap helps get the hoses through the firewall,
> though I'm not there yet...
>
> Alain Giguhre
> BN7
From "Coop" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 16:40:07 -0800
Subject: Re: I need a boot, part II
Curious. I purchased a blue one from Moss last Spring and, much to my
surprize and delight, it came with all the fasteners installed. All buttons
were in their perfect positions. I'll be purchasing a tonneau this Spring
and I'm guessing my luck has run out. Coop
> Ron,
> I bought a "top stowage cover" for my BJ8 from Moss last year. The fit
was
> fine and it seems to be a good, heavy grade of vinyl that should last a
long
> time with care. It came with all the necessary fasteners, but I had to
> install the fasteners myself. That isn't particularly difficult to do,
but
> I had already installed a convertible top on a Midget and my BJ8 and a
> tonneau on the Midget. As with anything else, experience helps. For the
> button snaps, you need an installation tool (I think I got mine at Home
> Depot for a few bucks).
>
> If you decide to install it yourself and you need detailed advice on
placing
> the fasteners, we can talk you through it.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ron Rader <rader@interworld.net>
> To: Healey, List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 1:38 AM
> Subject: I need a boot, part II
>
>
> >
> >Listers:
> >Please let me star again.
> >I am looking to purchase a black "Top Stowage Cover" which used to cover
> >the folded down top on the BJ8.
> >Moss calls this a top stowage cover. I thought it was a boot for the
> >top.
> >Has anyone bought this part from Moss? How did it fit? Is it "correct"?
> >Do you have to install all of the fasteners? Should I get a "Stowage
> >bag" to store the cover in, or is that overkill?
> >TIA
> >Ron Rader
> >1965 BJ8
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 19:23:32 -0600
Subject: Re: Holdens
Greetings All, HNY, etc...........yes but they have MANY items not available
else where world wide,( from my Morris Minor days) ....Period.......and since
that is your opinion and you were disconsiderate to my opinions in the past and
use of bandwidth.........i believe Sir you are wrong you prick bastard!
Sincerely,
HoYo
John Trifari wrote:
> FYI--they charge over $6 for a catalog. ("Total cost: # 4.00 [ex VAT and
> shipping where applicable]"). It's hard to do business with a company like
> that. John Trifari 1955 BN1/1965 BJ8
>
> Brad Weldon wrote:
>
> > Looks like the url should be www.holden.co.uk (not holdens)
> >
> > Brad
> > '55 Hundred
> > BN1 #226796
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Editorgary@aol.com
> > > Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 8:45 AM
> > > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: Holdens
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I referred someone yesterday to Holdens in the UK to order Smiths
> > > gauges.
> > > According to their catalog, they do stock them, as well as nearly every
> > > imaginable piece of gear that connects to the car with a wire.
> > >
> > > Contact is www.holdens.co.uk
> > > email holden@holden.co.uk
> > >
> > > They are not currently an advertiser in British Car Magazine.
> > >
> > > Cheers
> > > Gary Anderson
> > > Editor, British Car
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 20:52:06 -0500
Subject: RE: healey keys
If you don't need keys with the original markings
any good locksmith should be able to make one for
you. ILCo makes blanks for these keys.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Malcolm Bruce
Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 3:28 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: healey keys
Need some info on BJ8 keys as my recent acquisition has none.
1. source for keys if I supply the lock #
2. What other locks did the ignition key fit?
3. Did the glovebox key fit any other lock?
Thanks for any assistance.
Mal Bruce
BJ8 MGC
From "Paul Cleary" <pcleary at ican.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 20:54:28 -0500
Subject: New Carpet..
Hi All,
I would like to purcahse a new set of carpets (Black) for my 67 BJ8. has
anyone any experience in this area, IE Moss, Penninsula imports etc.
Any advice appreciated.
Regards, Paul Cleary
From deemi at juno.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 21:13:13 -0500
Subject: Paris Motor Show 1957
I have a plain jane 100-6 disc wheels and all that was the Standard
version at the Paris Motor show in 1957, does anyone have a picture of
healeys at this show?
I have seen one shot at a distance of a Healey, but several were there.
This was confirmed by Mr. Clausager at the Trust.
its in bad shape, and needs alot of help, but has painted centers on the
disc wheels to match the body paint etc. still. and has all french spec
gauges.
A Mr. F. Wol bought the car after the show, and its warranty from Austin
I have a copy, it then ends up just north of Washington DC, then later in
a yard in tappahanock VA.
Any suggestions appreciated!
Bob and Dick Bowie up to Maine
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 22:55:38 EST
Subject: Re: Holdens
In a message dated 1/3/01 2:33:24 PM Central Standard Time, john4@home.com
writes:
> FYI--they charge over $6 for a catalog. ("Total cost: # 4.00 [ex VAT and
> shipping where applicable]"). It's hard to do business with a company like
> that. John Trifari 1955 BN1/1965 BJ8
>
>
>
>
Why? It's an awesome catalog! For me it's just another piece of reference
material I can use as I work through restoring my cars, the few bucks it cost
seem inconsiquential when I'm searching for sources for something. It's
always nice to know what is available, and sometimes it takes buying a
catalog or two to round out the knowledge base. You should try owning a car
that there are NO parts available for, you would learn to relish every source.
Besides, do you really think Moss and others just "give" you those "free"
catalogs? Your paying for them one way or another!
It's like anything, if it doesn't interest you, walk away.
I would recommmend Holden to anyone looking for a very complete stockist of
English car electrical/gauge/accessory type stuff. And, oh yeah, they do
charge for their catalog.
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 20:36:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Intake manifold
My experience has been the same. So far, about 5000 miles on the
intake manifold and it looks much the same as it did when I sprayed it
with the Moss paint. The Hirsch manifold silver stuff looks a little
spotty but no rust poking through so far.
-Roland
BJ7, BN1
On Wed, 3 Jan 2001 17:24:29 -0500, "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
wrote:
:: For anyone wanting to paint the INTAKE manifold -
:: The spray can Healey engine green paint sold by Moss is self-priming. I
:: painted my manifold with it along with the engine, and like the Jet-Hot
:: stuff on the exhaust manifold, the paint has neither cracked, chipped,
:: discolored, peeled, etc. in 10,000 miles.
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 22:58:24 -0800
Subject: Re: healey keys
Malcolm:
The my ignition key fits the two doors on my car but does not fit the
trunk. That may or may not be standard. I also have a separate key for
the glove box. I am not the only owner. My door/ignition key is sort of
square and the glove box is round.
Ron
Malcolm Bruce wrote:
> Need some info on BJ8 keys as my recent acquisition has none.
>
> 1. source for keys if I supply the lock #
>
> 2. What other locks did the ignition key fit?
>
> 3. Did the glovebox key fit any other lock?
>
> Thanks for any assistance.
>
> Mal Bruce
> BJ8 MGC
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 23:17:47 -0800
Subject: Re: healey keys
Almost the same here for my BJ8. Square key fits ignition and doors. Round
key fits trunk and glovebox. Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
To: "Malcolm Bruce" <malcolm@procurcorp.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 10:58 PM
Subject: Re: healey keys
>
> Malcolm:
> The my ignition key fits the two doors on my car but does not fit the
> trunk. That may or may not be standard. I also have a separate key for
> the glove box. I am not the only owner. My door/ignition key is sort of
> square and the glove box is round.
> Ron
>
>
>
> Malcolm Bruce wrote:
>
> > Need some info on BJ8 keys as my recent acquisition has none.
> >
> > 1. source for keys if I supply the lock #
> >
> > 2. What other locks did the ignition key fit?
> >
> > 3. Did the glovebox key fit any other lock?
> >
> > Thanks for any assistance.
> >
> > Mal Bruce
> > BJ8 MGC
From Josef.Eckert at t-mobil.de
Date: 4 Jan 2001 08:39:04 +0000
Subject: Concours-Standard
Some thoughts/reflections from Germany (not very serious)!
It is a little bit funny for me to hear what you Americans are doing preparing
a Healey to American Concours Standard.
As I understand the discussion right, to go for concours in America is to copy
the factory standard in all details. That means for me having bad gaps/fittings
of boot and trunk, doors perhaps. No rust prevention, engine painted with
ancillaries (including cooling fan belt), bad painted radiator, paint marks on
bolts, painted chrome parts etc. All shortcomings of the mass production are
copied for getting a "perfect" concours car. Is it that you are looking for?
I heard from a friend who was invited to America a few years ago to judge
concours and he learned that it may took 5 hours just to judge 2 Healeys. I
think that is very disappointing for the owner of the car and boring job for
the judge. How many days/weeks does it take to prepare such a car for
concours? I have got 3 Healeys and I love the cars, the marque, all and
everything going around Healeys. A part of my life is to preserve the Healey
heritage. But on the other hand the factory finish of a Healey was far away
from nice. Healeys were cheap sportscars, not at all perfect. Healey engines,
transmissions, suspensions were far away what made a real sportscar. If you
restore/rebuilt a Healey in the way they would have built it at Jensens, at the
factory Longbridge or Abingdon when they had plenty of time and resources
(using all original parts, colours, of course not the old bolts, just doing it
a little bit more perfect) you may get a much better Healey which should get
the same points in concours than a car just leaving the factory in original
spec. I think that is what we are doing here in Europe - European-Standard.
As I said, just some reflections
Cheers
Josef Eckert
Koenigswinter, Germany
BN1, MKII BT7, Sprite MKIII
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 05:09:16 -0600
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
Josef..... Having attended several meets in Germany I absolutely agree that
you folks have a couple of things Right!!!
First the Judge has quality Beer.... and even Better wine... I am thinking
of a 89er from the Rhinegau in an Ausse lasse...
Now where was I... Oh yeah Concours.... While in Germany I had the
opportunity to see some suburb craftsmanship in the restoration of several
cars.... I think your attention to detail and manner in which you preserve
the Marque is Much better then the American standard... What I agreed with
is the inability to accept substandard work....
I won't mention names as it's not important.... but I had the opportunity to
see a Concours car here .... I had heard alot about the car and when I
actually got up to see it... the car was absolutely UGLY.... very Very ahhh
BORING.... There was none of the quality I expected to see.... the paint
job was one of the worst I have ever seen.... But it was " Correct "
John Hunt's BJ8 would be an exception to this.... it is absolutely
Stunning.... But I don't think John could accept any kind of substandard
work...
This will undoubtably cause several Flames .... and it's not my intent... to
bad mouth our standard.... But what it represents is the people who are in
charge of defining our rules... saying what is Correct and what isn't....
it's thier opinion...
The " As it left the factory " isn't the only option here ...
Last but not least.... You have to remember that this whole deal is about
Volunteers doing this on thier own time... and for our folks that are
interested in Concours these are the choices they have made... it's thier
interest in this Hobby.... They absolutely Get to Pick what is " Correct "
Personally I respect their interest as much as I do the Nasty Boys.... and
Popular Class cars.... it's all part of the hobby...
Keith Turk ( http://downtown.ala.net/~kturk/camaro3001.htm )
----- Original Message -----
From: <Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 2:39 AM
Subject: Concours-Standard
>
> Some thoughts/reflections from Germany (not very serious)!
>
> It is a little bit funny for me to hear what you Americans are doing
preparing
> a Healey to American Concours Standard.
> As I understand the discussion right, to go for concours in America is to
copy
> the factory standard in all details. That means for me having bad
gaps/fittings
> of boot and trunk, doors perhaps. No rust prevention, engine painted with
> ancillaries (including cooling fan belt), bad painted radiator, paint
marks on
> bolts, painted chrome parts etc. All shortcomings of the mass production
are
> copied for getting a "perfect" concours car. Is it that you are looking
for?
> I heard from a friend who was invited to America a few years ago to judge
> concours and he learned that it may took 5 hours just to judge 2 Healeys.
I
> think that is very disappointing for the owner of the car and boring job
for
> the judge. How many days/weeks does it take to prepare such a car for
> concours? I have got 3 Healeys and I love the cars, the marque, all and
> everything going around Healeys. A part of my life is to preserve the
Healey
> heritage. But on the other hand the factory finish of a Healey was far
away
> from nice. Healeys were cheap sportscars, not at all perfect. Healey
engines,
> transmissions, suspensions were far away what made a real sportscar. If
you
> restore/rebuilt a Healey in the way they would have built it at Jensens,
at the
> factory Longbridge or Abingdon when they had plenty of time and resources
> (using all original parts, colours, of course not the old bolts, just
doing it
> a little bit more perfect) you may get a much better Healey which should
get
> the same points in concours than a car just leaving the factory in
original
> spec. I think that is what we are doing here in Europe -
European-Standard.
>
> As I said, just some reflections
>
> Cheers
> Josef Eckert
> Koenigswinter, Germany
> BN1, MKII BT7, Sprite MKIII
From "Mike & Kerry Gigante" <mikeg at vicnet.net.au>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 22:47:58 +1100
Subject: Re: Exhaust coatings
I have jet-hot coated one set of exhaust manifolds - it is *great*, a few
years of
competition on a fairly warm motor and they look pretty much as new.
On another set of manifolds, I sandblasted them then used a zinc/epoxy
coating. It
isn't really a paint, but rather a coating designed as a rust preventative,
used over bare welds
and the like.
It works like a treat. It is a little fragile (i.e. you have to be very
careful installing the
manifold or you'll chip the coating off, but once there it is excellent.
After the first smokey heat cycle,
it pretty much stays the same uniform dull (matt) medium grey. No rusting,
no discolouring.
I actually first sandblasted then used prepsol before I coated.
I paid about A$13/can for the coat and 1 can was morte then enough for a set
of spridget LCB
extractors.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: <Healybj8@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 2:18 AM
Subject: Exhaust coatings
>
> Listers,
>
> What is the collective wisdom on exhaust manifolds and painting them? I
have
> used the Eastwood stainless steel grey stuff on other cars in the past.
> Works well enough, but does tend to discolor in high heat areas over time.
> Steve Byers has had sucess with Jet-hot coatings.
>
> What have you all done? I don't want to put the manifolds back on bare,
as
> the rusty look is not what I am going for.
>
> Tim Wallace
> '67 BJ8
> Fuquay-Varina, NC
From Josef.Eckert at t-mobil.de
Date: 4 Jan 2001 11:57:58 +0000
Subject: AW:Re: Concours-Standard
Keith,
next time you come to Germany you are warmly invited for a couple of beers or
as much wine you like. We are living nearby Bonn/Cologne in the Rhine valley.
The wine yards are around us. This weekend we are with Mell and Mike Ward in
Birmingham/England. Hope I see John Hunt, who told me to stay this January
somewhere around Warwick. I have one of the new dark blue small
Wiking-Healey-Modells for him. I know Johns BJ8. Two years ago he was in
England with his Healey and we "celebrated" the 100th aniversary of Donald
Healeys birth at Gaydon-Museum and with a nice BBQ in the garden of Mell&Mike`s
house.
What I wanted to say, I have got the feeling there is a lot of discussion about
should I paint the screws or catches in body colour, black, with or without
primer. When you open the trunk 3 times the colour of the catch has gone or is
marked with scratches.
Even it is a concours car you should be able to use it carefully for enjoying
Healey driving. Thats why the cars were built. Not for transporting them in
capsules to concours ground. I respect one who does that. But it should not be
the rule for concours. I have only got the feeling you in America are a little
bit over the top with your concours rules.
One of the fines Healeys I have ever seen is Cris Parkers BJ8, which got
Overall Winner European healey Meeting in Luxembourg last year. He came all the
way from England (500 miles one way) on that car without a trailor (pictures
see http://www.ah-nederland.simplenet.com/euromeet/concours_1.html).
I just would like to hear if I am wrong with my opinion.
Cheers
Josef Eckert
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 06:14:30 -0600
Subject: Re: AW:Re: Concours-Standard
Because it's an opinion you CAN'T be wrong.... Obviously I agree with
you...
If I had a Bottle of Ausse Lasse from Germany I sure would take it to
Bonneville and Toast with it if I ever Get in that Damn Two Club....If John
had to Carry it back to me... well that would make it from my Freinds in the
Healey Club.... and that it would be even more special...
John Hunt, John May and Len Thomas are all planning a trip to Maxton this
Spring to come play with the Race car... I am looking forward to it....
Can't wait to see these guys behind the wheel of something VERY fast...
oughta be a real hoot....
Keith
----- Original Message -----
From: <Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de>
To: <kturk@ala.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 5:57 AM
Subject: AW:Re: Concours-Standard
> Keith,
> next time you come to Germany you are warmly invited for a couple of beers
or
> as much wine you like. We are living nearby Bonn/Cologne in the Rhine
valley.
> The wine yards are around us. This weekend we are with Mell and Mike Ward
in
> Birmingham/England. Hope I see John Hunt, who told me to stay this January
> somewhere around Warwick. I have one of the new dark blue small
> Wiking-Healey-Modells for him. I know Johns BJ8. Two years ago he was in
> England with his Healey and we "celebrated" the 100th aniversary of Donald
> Healeys birth at Gaydon-Museum and with a nice BBQ in the garden of
Mell&Mike`s
> house.
> What I wanted to say, I have got the feeling there is a lot of discussion
about
> should I paint the screws or catches in body colour, black, with or
without
> primer. When you open the trunk 3 times the colour of the catch has gone
or is
> marked with scratches.
> Even it is a concours car you should be able to use it carefully for
enjoying
> Healey driving. Thats why the cars were built. Not for transporting them
in
> capsules to concours ground. I respect one who does that. But it should
not be
> the rule for concours. I have only got the feeling you in America are a
little
> bit over the top with your concours rules.
> One of the fines Healeys I have ever seen is Cris Parkers BJ8, which got
> Overall Winner European healey Meeting in Luxembourg last year. He came
all the
> way from England (500 miles one way) on that car without a trailor
(pictures
> see http://www.ah-nederland.simplenet.com/euromeet/concours_1.html).
> I just would like to hear if I am wrong with my opinion.
> Cheers
> Josef Eckert
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 08:00:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
I have to jump into this one. I like quality beer, too. I like judges who drink
Quality beer, while judging, even better.
Josef, the reason we go to such idiotic, finite points is that as Americans, we
have choices. Some of us have time and/ or money on our hands, so we go to
idiotic lengths to spend that money and justify it as an investment. I have now
spent four years of writing checks to a man whose business is hell-bent on
making my Austin Healey a "proper" cheap sports car so that I can take it to a
concours show and show it as authentic. I have spent tens of thousands of
dollars to make it like the $4,000 car it was. And I'm damned proud of it. It's
the most beautiful car that I have owned. Drive it? Why? I have other cars that
I drive.
In the meantime, pass me another Quality beer, please.
Danka.
Bob Denton
Keith Turk wrote:
> Josef..... Having attended several meets in Germany I absolutely agree that
> you folks have a couple of things Right!!!
>
> First the Judge has quality Beer.... and even Better wine... I am thinking
> of a 89er from the Rhinegau in an Ausse lasse...
>
> Now where was I... Oh yeah Concours.... While in Germany I had the
> opportunity to see some suburb craftsmanship in the restoration of several
> cars.... I think your attention to detail and manner in which you preserve
> the Marque is Much better then the American standard... What I agreed with
> is the inability to accept substandard work....
>
> I won't mention names as it's not important.... but I had the opportunity to
> see a Concours car here .... I had heard alot about the car and when I
> actually got up to see it... the car was absolutely UGLY.... very Very ahhh
> BORING.... There was none of the quality I expected to see.... the paint
> job was one of the worst I have ever seen.... But it was " Correct "
>
> John Hunt's BJ8 would be an exception to this.... it is absolutely
> Stunning.... But I don't think John could accept any kind of substandard
> work...
>
> This will undoubtably cause several Flames .... and it's not my intent... to
> bad mouth our standard.... But what it represents is the people who are in
> charge of defining our rules... saying what is Correct and what isn't....
> it's thier opinion...
> The " As it left the factory " isn't the only option here ...
>
> Last but not least.... You have to remember that this whole deal is about
> Volunteers doing this on thier own time... and for our folks that are
> interested in Concours these are the choices they have made... it's thier
> interest in this Hobby.... They absolutely Get to Pick what is " Correct "
> Personally I respect their interest as much as I do the Nasty Boys.... and
> Popular Class cars.... it's all part of the hobby...
>
> Keith Turk ( http://downtown.ala.net/~kturk/camaro3001.htm )
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 2:39 AM
> Subject: Concours-Standard
>
> >
> > Some thoughts/reflections from Germany (not very serious)!
> >
> > It is a little bit funny for me to hear what you Americans are doing
> preparing
> > a Healey to American Concours Standard.
> > As I understand the discussion right, to go for concours in America is to
> copy
> > the factory standard in all details. That means for me having bad
> gaps/fittings
> > of boot and trunk, doors perhaps. No rust prevention, engine painted with
> > ancillaries (including cooling fan belt), bad painted radiator, paint
> marks on
> > bolts, painted chrome parts etc. All shortcomings of the mass production
> are
> > copied for getting a "perfect" concours car. Is it that you are looking
> for?
> > I heard from a friend who was invited to America a few years ago to judge
> > concours and he learned that it may took 5 hours just to judge 2 Healeys.
> I
> > think that is very disappointing for the owner of the car and boring job
> for
> > the judge. How many days/weeks does it take to prepare such a car for
> > concours? I have got 3 Healeys and I love the cars, the marque, all and
> > everything going around Healeys. A part of my life is to preserve the
> Healey
> > heritage. But on the other hand the factory finish of a Healey was far
> away
> > from nice. Healeys were cheap sportscars, not at all perfect. Healey
> engines,
> > transmissions, suspensions were far away what made a real sportscar. If
> you
> > restore/rebuilt a Healey in the way they would have built it at Jensens,
> at the
> > factory Longbridge or Abingdon when they had plenty of time and resources
> > (using all original parts, colours, of course not the old bolts, just
> doing it
> > a little bit more perfect) you may get a much better Healey which should
> get
> > the same points in concours than a car just leaving the factory in
> original
> > spec. I think that is what we are doing here in Europe -
> European-Standard.
> >
> > As I said, just some reflections
> >
> > Cheers
> > Josef Eckert
> > Koenigswinter, Germany
> > BN1, MKII BT7, Sprite MKIII
From Josef.Eckert at t-mobil.de
Date: 4 Jan 2001 13:25:27 +0000
Subject: AW:Re: Concours-Standard
Bob,
what is better, to spend the money for a Healey or for beer!
I would chose the Healey but nevertheless
I would like to share a barrel of beer with you.
Cheers
Josef Eckert
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 09:07:29 -0500
Subject: RE: Re: Concours-Standard
Actually... I prefer a cold beer in the garage while working on the
Healey... ;-)
Steve
'61 BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de]
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 8:25 AM
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: AW:Re: Concours-Standard
Sensitivity: Confidential
Bob,
what is better, to spend the money for a Healey or for beer!
I would chose the Healey but nevertheless
I would like to share a barrel of beer with you.
Cheers
Josef Eckert
From "Malcolm Bruce" <malcolm at procurcorp.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 09:24:28 -0500
Subject: Healey Keys
Thanks to all who replied, I now have the necessary info.
Mal Bruce
From "Ross Leonard" <rkleonard at sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 10:23:53 -0500
Subject: Removing glass from gauges
Good Day,
Would anyone have any good tips for removing the glass from Healey gauges
without chipping or cracking them? They seem to be glued in, or just really
stuck from age.
Thanks.
Ross.
'64 BJ8
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 11:02:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: Concours-Standard
And from another direction --
My BN-1 was tired to the point that I was hesitant to leave town with
it, lest a long session with a tow truck would spoil my day. An
overhaul was started, primarily to change color (had to do something
about the flat black on all interior surfaces) and redo the engine
(cracked head, bad cam bearings, etc.) and transmission (cluster gear,
layshaft and synchros). Reassembly hadn't started when the decision
was made that I wanted the car to be at least as authentic as the
first BN-1 I owned in back in 1959/60/61. I, too, spent tens of
thousands of dollars and hours with the Concours Originality Guide and
on the phone looking for parts in order to attain a Gold Level
Concours car. That car fits the one in my memory banks and is now
driven to all meetings and mental health drives in between, has not
been trailered since the first time out for judging (a rule I hope to
break in June '02 for a 3000 mile trip to Open Roads 2002), and is now
'improved' in some details to a slightly higher level than when judged
in 1997.
The result is that I have a car that I am proud to own (and drive) and
that I feel can be used as a demonstration, to anyone who asks, how
something was done or looked when the cars exited the factory. Even
though the workmanship is at a custom shop level as opposed to union
work on an assembly line, this was strictly a personal decision to
have created an object to satisfy me and is "98% correct". There are
some areas, such as gaps between body panels, that may be more precise
than in 1955--but the criteria are probably averaged or direct from
untouched original cars. To each his own--
Ed A
BTW - My hazy memory of local beers in Germany from the mid 50's, when
I was stationed there, is a bright spot almost as cherished as my
Healey.
BTW2 - I don't understand maintaining a car solely for show either.
Again, to each his own---
-----Original Message-----
From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de <Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de>
To: kturk@ala.net <kturk@ala.net>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, January 04, 2001 7:02 AM
Subject: AW:Re: Concours-Standard
>
>Keith,
>next time you come to Germany you are warmly invited for a couple of
beers or
>as much wine you like. We are living nearby Bonn/Cologne in the Rhine
valley.
>The wine yards are around us. This weekend we are with Mell and Mike
Ward in
>Birmingham/England. Hope I see John Hunt, who told me to stay this
January
>somewhere around Warwick. I have one of the new dark blue small
>Wiking-Healey-Modells for him. I know Johns BJ8. Two years ago he was
in
>England with his Healey and we "celebrated" the 100th aniversary of
Donald
>Healeys birth at Gaydon-Museum and with a nice BBQ in the garden of
Mell&Mike`s
>house.
>What I wanted to say, I have got the feeling there is a lot of
discussion about
>should I paint the screws or catches in body colour, black, with or
without
>primer. When you open the trunk 3 times the colour of the catch has
gone or is
>marked with scratches.
>Even it is a concours car you should be able to use it carefully for
enjoying
>Healey driving. Thats why the cars were built. Not for transporting
them in
>capsules to concours ground. I respect one who does that. But it
should not be
>the rule for concours. I have only got the feeling you in America are
a little
>bit over the top with your concours rules.
>One of the fines Healeys I have ever seen is Cris Parkers BJ8, which
got
>Overall Winner European healey Meeting in Luxembourg last year. He
came all the
>way from England (500 miles one way) on that car without a trailor
(pictures
>see http://www.ah-nederland.simplenet.com/euromeet/concours_1.html).
>I just would like to hear if I am wrong with my opinion.
>Cheers
>Josef Eckert
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 11:04:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
Well said Josef!
The concours philosophy is also sort of like a virus - it creeps into to
every decision concerning a Healey.
My BT7 is as far from concours as it can get - MkIII transmission, positive
ground, magic crankshaft balancer, good cassette stereo, etc. Yet I still
find myself worrying about using the correct screws to attach the windscreen
or replacing the headlights. It's nuts, and it is insidious!
---
Lee Mairs
'62 Mk II Tri-carb
---
When trouble arises and things look bad, there is always one individual
who perceives a solution and is willing to take command. Very often, that
individual is crazy.
--Dave Barry
----- Original Message -----
From: <Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 3:39 AM
Subject: Concours-Standard
>
> Some thoughts/reflections from Germany (not very serious)!
>
> It is a little bit funny for me to hear what you Americans are doing
preparing
> a Healey to American Concours Standard.
> As I understand the discussion right, to go for concours in America is to
copy
> the factory standard in all details. That means for me having bad
gaps/fittings
> of boot and trunk, doors perhaps. No rust prevention, engine painted with
> ancillaries (including cooling fan belt), bad painted radiator, paint
marks on
> bolts, painted chrome parts etc...
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 10:08:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
Hi Josef,
In my opinion, the reason American concours goes to the extent it does
is because of the American classic car market. You see, we (British car
fans) are used to dealing with cars produced in (relatively) low numbers.
But in the Corvette, Mustang, Camaro world, there are a gazillion cars out
there. Just go to a 'Mustang only' show over here and you'll see what I
mean. The only way to differentiate between so many excellent examples is to
ratchet up the criteria to the point where only a few qualify as concours. I
saw a piece a few years ago, on a 'My Classic Car' TV episode, where the
owner of a sixties 'Vette was explaining how the machine that painted the
car at the factory always failed to get paint on the underside of one of the
body contours, and that he had duplicated that. He had also left grease
hanging from the fittings under the car, allegedly just as the factory had
done. Now don't get me wrong, being in the biz, I'm only too glad to help
people achieve these details if that's what interests them. But he now has a
car he can't drive! And isn't being able to be driven the most important
detail of all?
Peter (BMC Restorations)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 2:39 AM
Subject: Concours-Standard
>
> Some thoughts/reflections from Germany (not very serious)!
>
> It is a little bit funny for me to hear what you Americans are doing
preparing
> a Healey to American Concours Standard.
> As I understand the discussion right, to go for concours in America is to
copy
> the factory standard in all details. That means for me having bad
gaps/fittings
> of boot and trunk, doors perhaps. No rust prevention, engine painted with
> ancillaries (including cooling fan belt), bad painted radiator, paint
marks on
> bolts, painted chrome parts etc. All shortcomings of the mass production
are
> copied for getting a "perfect" concours car. Is it that you are looking
for?
> I heard from a friend who was invited to America a few years ago to judge
> concours and he learned that it may took 5 hours just to judge 2 Healeys.
I
> think that is very disappointing for the owner of the car and boring job
for
> the judge. How many days/weeks does it take to prepare such a car for
> concours? I have got 3 Healeys and I love the cars, the marque, all and
> everything going around Healeys. A part of my life is to preserve the
Healey
> heritage. But on the other hand the factory finish of a Healey was far
away
> from nice. Healeys were cheap sportscars, not at all perfect. Healey
engines,
> transmissions, suspensions were far away what made a real sportscar. If
you
> restore/rebuilt a Healey in the way they would have built it at Jensens,
at the
> factory Longbridge or Abingdon when they had plenty of time and resources
> (using all original parts, colours, of course not the old bolts, just
doing it
> a little bit more perfect) you may get a much better Healey which should
get
> the same points in concours than a car just leaving the factory in
original
> spec. I think that is what we are doing here in Europe -
European-Standard.
>
> As I said, just some reflections
>
> Cheers
> Josef Eckert
> Koenigswinter, Germany
> BN1, MKII BT7, Sprite MKIII
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 10:26:02 -0600
Subject: RE: Removing glass from gauges
Hi,
The bezels on the gauges are "bayoneted" on, that is, they can, in theory,
be rotated off (if you examine the tabs, this will become clear). The
problem is that the gasket that they used between the glass and bezel turns
into some kind of immovable glue.
My method was to add a few drops of acetone at the glass/bezel interface and
allow it to wick in to attack the gasket and loosen things up. I also had
to assist the bezels on one gauge by lifting the tabs slightly.
You will have to replace that gasket with some suitable material; I used
thin-walled silicone tubing which works very well.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Ross Leonard [mailto:rkleonard@sympatico.ca]
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 7:24 AM
To: 'Healey List'
Subject: Removing glass from gauges
Good Day,
Would anyone have any good tips for removing the glass from Healey gauges
without chipping or cracking them? They seem to be glued in, or just really
stuck from age.
Thanks.
Ross.
'64 BJ8
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 11:48:44 EST
Subject: BJ7 carpet edging
Listers,
I know BJ7 carpets had vinyl binding on the gearbox carpeting around the
shifter opening. Was the cutout for the emergency brake also edged or was
it left as cut?
Thanks,
Rick
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 10:56:50 -0600
Subject: RE: Concours-Standard
Well said - both of you guys. One cannot say that I don't love Healeys.
Being the first and only owner of my '62 BT7 Mk2 since early 1963 is my
claim to loving Healeys. I've even made the pilgrimage to Perranporth to
see the stained glass window, etc.. However, I'm from the school that likes
tasteful modifications. If I can make my car go faster, stop quicker,
handle better, and upgrade creature comforts, I'm going to do it. I use a
Toyota 5-speed, a Jule chassis, rear disks from a Cad ElDorado, and many
other things which I call "improvements." I know that some concours
advocates will surely not regard this too kindly. Certainly, I don't have
any quarrel with anyone about their concept of Healeys.
Jack Brashear
Little Rock, Arkansas
U.S.A.
-----Original Message-----
From: Lee S. Mairs [mailto:lmairs@cox.rr.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 10:04 AM
To: Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
Well said Josef!
The concours philosophy is also sort of like a virus - it creeps into to
every decision concerning a Healey.
My BT7 is as far from concours as it can get - MkIII transmission, positive
ground, magic crankshaft balancer, good cassette stereo, etc. Yet I still
find myself worrying about using the correct screws to attach the windscreen
or replacing the headlights. It's nuts, and it is insidious!
---
Lee Mairs
'62 Mk II Tri-carb
---
When trouble arises and things look bad, there is always one individual
who perceives a solution and is willing to take command. Very often, that
individual is crazy.
--Dave Barry
----- Original Message -----
From: <Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 3:39 AM
Subject: Concours-Standard
>
> Some thoughts/reflections from Germany (not very serious)!
>
> It is a little bit funny for me to hear what you Americans are doing
preparing
> a Healey to American Concours Standard.
> As I understand the discussion right, to go for concours in America is to
copy
> the factory standard in all details. That means for me having bad
gaps/fittings
> of boot and trunk, doors perhaps. No rust prevention, engine painted with
> ancillaries (including cooling fan belt), bad painted radiator, paint
marks on
> bolts, painted chrome parts etc...
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 12:25:43 EST
Subject: Fuel Pump Question
Hi,
After an extended dry spell, I'm finally getting back to work on what is
important in life.....my Healey project. I'm in the process of ordering a
fuel pump for my '57 BN4 (6 Port head) and I need some advice. I'm thinking
about installing Webber downdraft carbs, to replace my HD6 SU carbs, and need
to know whether a stock pump is suitable for the set-up or whether I should
be thinking about something else? If so, any recommendations?
Thanks,
Scott Helms
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 10:41:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
Dumping $50,000.00 into a car that,s worth $30,000.00 when it's finished
isn't what I'd call an investment. It's a hobby. Drive the car before it's
too late. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
-----Original Message-----
From: Arjay <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de <Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de>
Cc: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, January 04, 2001 8:24 AM
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
>
>I have to jump into this one. I like quality beer, too. I like judges who
drink
>Quality beer, while judging, even better.
>
>Josef, the reason we go to such idiotic, finite points is that as
Americans, we
>have choices. Some of us have time and/ or money on our hands, so we go to
>idiotic lengths to spend that money and justify it as an investment. I have
now
>spent four years of writing checks to a man whose business is hell-bent on
>making my Austin Healey a "proper" cheap sports car so that I can take it
to a
>concours show and show it as authentic. I have spent tens of thousands of
>dollars to make it like the $4,000 car it was. And I'm damned proud of it.
It's
>the most beautiful car that I have owned. Drive it? Why? I have other cars
that
>I drive.
>
>In the meantime, pass me another Quality beer, please.
>
>Danka.
>
>Bob Denton
>
>Keith Turk wrote:
>
>> Josef..... Having attended several meets in Germany I absolutely agree
that
>> you folks have a couple of things Right!!!
>>
>> First the Judge has quality Beer.... and even Better wine... I am
thinking
>> of a 89er from the Rhinegau in an Ausse lasse...
>>
>> Now where was I... Oh yeah Concours.... While in Germany I had the
>> opportunity to see some suburb craftsmanship in the restoration of
several
>> cars.... I think your attention to detail and manner in which you
preserve
>> the Marque is Much better then the American standard... What I agreed
with
>> is the inability to accept substandard work....
>>
>> I won't mention names as it's not important.... but I had the opportunity
to
>> see a Concours car here .... I had heard alot about the car and when I
>> actually got up to see it... the car was absolutely UGLY.... very Very
ahhh
>> BORING.... There was none of the quality I expected to see.... the paint
>> job was one of the worst I have ever seen.... But it was " Correct "
>>
>> John Hunt's BJ8 would be an exception to this.... it is absolutely
>> Stunning.... But I don't think John could accept any kind of substandard
>> work...
>>
>> This will undoubtably cause several Flames .... and it's not my intent...
to
>> bad mouth our standard.... But what it represents is the people who are
in
>> charge of defining our rules... saying what is Correct and what
isn't....
>> it's thier opinion...
>> The " As it left the factory " isn't the only option here ...
>>
>> Last but not least.... You have to remember that this whole deal is about
>> Volunteers doing this on thier own time... and for our folks that are
>> interested in Concours these are the choices they have made... it's thier
>> interest in this Hobby.... They absolutely Get to Pick what is " Correct
"
>> Personally I respect their interest as much as I do the Nasty Boys....
and
>> Popular Class cars.... it's all part of the hobby...
>>
>> Keith Turk ( http://downtown.ala.net/~kturk/camaro3001.htm )
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de>
>> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 2:39 AM
>> Subject: Concours-Standard
>>
>> >
>> > Some thoughts/reflections from Germany (not very serious)!
>> >
>> > It is a little bit funny for me to hear what you Americans are doing
>> preparing
>> > a Healey to American Concours Standard.
>> > As I understand the discussion right, to go for concours in America is
to
>> copy
>> > the factory standard in all details. That means for me having bad
>> gaps/fittings
>> > of boot and trunk, doors perhaps. No rust prevention, engine painted
with
>> > ancillaries (including cooling fan belt), bad painted radiator, paint
>> marks on
>> > bolts, painted chrome parts etc. All shortcomings of the mass
production
>> are
>> > copied for getting a "perfect" concours car. Is it that you are looking
>> for?
>> > I heard from a friend who was invited to America a few years ago to
judge
>> > concours and he learned that it may took 5 hours just to judge 2
Healeys.
>> I
>> > think that is very disappointing for the owner of the car and boring
job
>> for
>> > the judge. How many days/weeks does it take to prepare such a car for
>> > concours? I have got 3 Healeys and I love the cars, the marque, all and
>> > everything going around Healeys. A part of my life is to preserve the
>> Healey
>> > heritage. But on the other hand the factory finish of a Healey was far
>> away
>> > from nice. Healeys were cheap sportscars, not at all perfect. Healey
>> engines,
>> > transmissions, suspensions were far away what made a real sportscar. If
>> you
>> > restore/rebuilt a Healey in the way they would have built it at
Jensens,
>> at the
>> > factory Longbridge or Abingdon when they had plenty of time and
resources
>> > (using all original parts, colours, of course not the old bolts, just
>> doing it
>> > a little bit more perfect) you may get a much better Healey which
should
>> get
>> > the same points in concours than a car just leaving the factory in
>> original
>> > spec. I think that is what we are doing here in Europe -
>> European-Standard.
>> >
>> > As I said, just some reflections
>> >
>> > Cheers
>> > Josef Eckert
>> > Koenigswinter, Germany
>> > BN1, MKII BT7, Sprite MKIII
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 09:36:39 -0800
Subject: John Cooper obit
Does anyone have any obituary information on John Cooper that I can use in
our local club newsletter?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 10:46:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
Rear discs from a Cad Eldo. I'd sure like to hear more about that mod. Could
you contact me off list? Thanks, RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
-----Original Message-----
From: Brashear, Jack, N <jnbrashear@GarverInc.com>
To: 'Lee S. Mairs' <lmairs@cox.rr.com>; Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de
<Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de>; healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, January 04, 2001 12:03 PM
Subject: RE: Concours-Standard
>
>Well said - both of you guys. One cannot say that I don't love Healeys.
>Being the first and only owner of my '62 BT7 Mk2 since early 1963 is my
>claim to loving Healeys. I've even made the pilgrimage to Perranporth to
>see the stained glass window, etc.. However, I'm from the school that
likes
>tasteful modifications. If I can make my car go faster, stop quicker,
>handle better, and upgrade creature comforts, I'm going to do it. I use a
>Toyota 5-speed, a Jule chassis, rear disks from a Cad ElDorado, and many
>other things which I call "improvements." I know that some concours
>advocates will surely not regard this too kindly. Certainly, I don't have
>any quarrel with anyone about their concept of Healeys.
>Jack Brashear
>Little Rock, Arkansas
>U.S.A.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Lee S. Mairs [mailto:lmairs@cox.rr.com]
>Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 10:04 AM
>To: Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de; healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
>
>
>
>Well said Josef!
>
>The concours philosophy is also sort of like a virus - it creeps into to
>every decision concerning a Healey.
>
>My BT7 is as far from concours as it can get - MkIII transmission, positive
>ground, magic crankshaft balancer, good cassette stereo, etc. Yet I still
>find myself worrying about using the correct screws to attach the
windscreen
>or replacing the headlights. It's nuts, and it is insidious!
>---
>Lee Mairs
>'62 Mk II Tri-carb
>---
>When trouble arises and things look bad, there is always one individual
>who perceives a solution and is willing to take command. Very often, that
>individual is crazy.
> --Dave Barry
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 3:39 AM
>Subject: Concours-Standard
>
>
>>
>> Some thoughts/reflections from Germany (not very serious)!
>>
>> It is a little bit funny for me to hear what you Americans are doing
>preparing
>> a Healey to American Concours Standard.
>> As I understand the discussion right, to go for concours in America is to
>copy
>> the factory standard in all details. That means for me having bad
>gaps/fittings
>> of boot and trunk, doors perhaps. No rust prevention, engine painted
with
>> ancillaries (including cooling fan belt), bad painted radiator, paint
>marks on
>> bolts, painted chrome parts etc...
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 17:47:00 +0000
Subject: Re: Fan belt for 100
Lance, Roger etc.
Maybe this is just "useless information" but it could apply in a very
small number of cases.
The Austin large four cylinder engines such as those fitted to A70s and
A90s had a dynamo/generator Pulley 1B 1114 which was 4 1/8" in diameter.
Most Austin-Healey 100s were fitted with a pulley 1B 1727 which is 3
5/8" diameter. I have noticed that in many cases the same belt is called
up in both applications. Not all suppliers seem to recognise that there
was a change.
It is interesting to note that some later A90 Atlantics were fitted with
the smaller pulley although the parts book did not recognise this.
Perhaps more important it is thought likely that a few of the early
Warwick built 100s would have been fitted with the larger pulley (Going
by engine numbers!). It is also possible for A70 and A90 generators to
become fitted to 100s without changing the pulley. I have seen many
cases of this in the UK.
So for what it is worth it might be advisable to check the diameter of
the generator pulley if you are having trouble getting a belt to fit.
All the best
>
>Thanks Roger and Rudi Markl:
>I bought a new belt from a major Healey supplier here in the states a couple
>years ago and just got around to installing it; it is way to tight, it
>measured 43". The old belt that was on my car was a Gates Truck & Bus
>698-T. I do not know the dimensions of this belt and could not get a good
>cross reference from NAPA. I did find a belt at NAPA part no. 24457
>measuring 461/4 x 11/16 wide. I'm satisfied with its fit for my car ( just
>a driver).
>lance
>54 bn1
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
>To: <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 8:50 PM
>Subject: Re: Fan belt for 100
>
>
>> In a message dated 01/01/2001 10:58:27 AM Mountain Standard Time,
>> brshwrks@bellatlantic.net writes:
>>
>> <<
>> Hello and Happy New Year all:
>> Question, what fan belt are you guys using for a bn1? NAPA number,
>Gates,
>> Dayco? TIA
>> lance
>> 54 bn1 >>
>>
>> This is a non-trivial question. First, I know of NO correct fan belt sold
>by
>> anyone. There are three dimensions to consider, and how the belt fits
>> depends on their interrelationship. There is the width, the thicness, and
>> the length.
>>
>> Ideally, the belt will ride in the pulleys with the outer surface flush
>with
>> the edge of the pulley. If the belt is too wide by just a few thousandths
>it
>> will ride up (befause of the effect of geometry and the pulley angles) and
>> stick above the edge of the pulley. If the belt is too thick, while the
>> outer surface may ride properly, the ID will be on the small side and you
>> will not be able to slip it over the pulleys without removing the
>generator
>> mounting bolts to allow the generator to rotate inwards a bit.
>>
>> And the length will affect again whether you can install it without
>removing
>> the generator or whether it will tighten before you run out of slot on the
>> adjustment link.
>>
>> The SC belt is a bit too wide and thick. It rides aobut 1/32 - 1/16"
>high,
>> and the ID is too small to fit over the pulleys without removing the
>> generator mount bolts. But once installed, it will last forever and
>doesn't
>> look all that bad. The correct width at the outer surface is 3/4". The
>SC
>> belt is 13/16".
>>
>> I don't know how other belts fit that are for sale.
>>
>> I did go to Beaulieu about three years ago and pawed through boxes of old
>> belts under tables at a number of stalls. Out of my search I found ONE
>belt
>> of the proper dimensions to fit the pulley and allow itself to be
>installed
>> without having to remove the generator. I also have a NOS belt that fits
>the
>> pulleys, but is too short and thus you have to remove the generator to
>> install it. Has the correct BMC part number stamped on it and everything.
>>
>> For convenience, you could try a belt from a US Healey parets supplier and
>> return it if it doesn't work. I don't know of any part numbers for Gates
>or
>> NAPA that will work. We checked this out fairly thoroughly some years
>back.
>>
>> At one time I thought someone said they knew of a source fot he correct
>belt,
>> but it was like $30.00. I didn't want to spend that much on an experiment
>as
>> I had a belt that will last me forever anyway.
>>
>> Let us know what you find out.
>>
>> Roger
--
John Harper
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 10:02:20 -0800
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
A couple of thoughts from someone who will likely never have a
Concours Gold Healey:
There is a wide range of opinion among those striving for Concours as
to what constitutes perfection. I know of no place in the published
standards that specifies how badly the panels should fit -- rather the
contrary is given: the fit needs to be at least 'this' good. Seat
belts and other safety equipment will lose the car no points. The
Concours Gold and Silver cars that I have seen are all better fit and
finished than the new BN2 I owned in 1956, and, in my opinion that is
as it should be. Many, many Concours Gold car owners drive their
cars, and not just to shows. For example, Sandy Leon here in San
Diego drives his Concours Gold bugeye to club meetings, picnics, and
on impromptu tours through the mountains of Southern California.
Yes, some owners never drive their Concours cars, but that is not true
of most. And "ugly" is not a Concours specification, particularly for
a Healey.
-Roland Wilhelmy
BN1, BJ7
On 4 Jan 2001 08:39:04 +0000, Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de wrote:
::
:: Some thoughts/reflections from Germany (not very serious)!
::
:: It is a little bit funny for me to hear what you Americans are doing
:preparing
:: a Healey to American Concours Standard.
:: As I understand the discussion right, to go for concours in America is to
:copy
:: the factory standard in all details. That means for me having bad
:gaps/fittings
:: of boot and trunk, doors perhaps. No rust prevention, engine painted with
:: ancillaries (including cooling fan belt), bad painted radiator, paint marks
:on
:: bolts, painted chrome parts etc. All shortcomings of the mass production
:are
:: copied for getting a "perfect" concours car. Is it that you are looking for?
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 10:41:00 -0800
Subject: Holden[s]
Mr. Young: I hope that this does not start a pointless thread. I have
no desire
to participate in one that deals with such a trivial issue as whether or
not Holden should charge for its catalog. I wish only to repeat that I
think it rather idiotic of a company (Holden) to charge for the
privilege of doing business with it--ie, to charge for a catalog of the
very items it wants to sell, especially extra for "...shipping where
applicable." It would seem to me that the smart thing to do would be to
distribute the catalog widely and for free, thereby attracting more
interest in the company's products--even if it meant cutting back on the
production quality of the publication. Anyway, you have your opinion on
this issue ("i [sic] believe [,] Sir[,] you are wrong you prick [,]
bastard!"), and I have mine. Moreover, I am entitled to express it
without pointless, insulting replies from you or anyone else. Further,
I am not aware that at any time I was "...disconsiderate [sic] to [sic]
my [i.e. your] opinions in the past and use of bandwidth [sic]." If so,
my apologies to you for any "disconsiderate" opinions, and my apologies
to the List for your convoluted syntax. John Trifari 1955 BN1 1965
BJ8
Howard Young wrote:
> Greetings All, HNY, etc...........yes but they have MANY items not
available
> else where world wide,( from my Morris Minor days)
....Period.......and since
> that is your opinion and you were disconsiderate to my opinions in the
past and
> use of bandwidth.........i believe Sir you are wrong you prick
bastard!
>
> Sincerely,
>
> HoYo
>
> John Trifari wrote:
>
> > FYI--they charge over $6 for a catalog. ("Total cost: # 4.00 [ex
VAT and
> > shipping where applicable]"). It's hard to do business with a
company like
> > that. John Trifari 1955 BN1/1965 BJ8
> >
> > Brad Weldon wrote:
> >
> > > Looks like the url should be www.holden.co.uk (not holdens)
> > >
> > > Brad
> > > '55 Hundred
> > > BN1 #226796
> > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > > > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
Editorgary@aol.com
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 8:45 AM
> > > > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > > > Subject: Holdens
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I referred someone yesterday to Holdens in the UK to order
Smiths
> > > > gauges.
> > > > According to their catalog, they do stock them, as well as
nearly every
> > > > imaginable piece of gear that connects to the car with a wire.
> > > >
> > > > Contact is www.holdens.co.uk
> > > > email holden@holden.co.uk
> > > >
> > > > They are not currently an advertiser in British Car Magazine.
> > > >
> > > > Cheers
> > > > Gary Anderson
> > > > Editor, British Car
From busyrider at springmail.com
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 14:46:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: Concours-Standard
This drivel surfaces as often as one of the four seasons and the
comments/criticism that begin these threads are about as noteworthy as what
gets flushed down a toilet.
The people that truly understand Healey concours standards know that they serve
as a means to preserve a manufactured item in no different a manner than any
other effort to preserve a significant timepiece, piece of furniture, coin
silver, architecture, or what have you.
It is my understanding that an owner does not have to trailer a car to expect
to do well in concours judging.
It would be interesting to know how many contributors to this thread have ever
read the Healey concours standards before they expressed negative comments.
Busyboy Fred Criswell
On Thu, 04 Jan 2001 08:00:13 -0500 Arjay <foxriverkid@earthlink.net> wrote:
I have to jump into this one. I like quality beer, too. I like judges who drink
Quality beer, while judging, even better.
Josef, the reason we go to such idiotic, finite points is that as Americans, we
have choices. Some of us have time and/ or money on our hands, so we go to
idiotic lengths to spend that money and justify it as an investment. I have now
spent four years of writing checks to a man whose business is hell-bent on
making my Austin Healey a "proper" cheap sports car so that I can take it to a
concours show and show it as authentic. I have spent tens of thousands of
dollars to make it like the $4,000 car it was. And I'm damned proud of it. It's
the most beautiful car that I have owned. Drive it? Why? I have other cars that
I drive.
In the meantime, pass me another Quality beer, please.
Danka.
Bob Denton
Keith Turk wrote:
> Josef..... Having attended several meets in Germany I absolutely agree that
> you folks have a couple of things Right!!!
>
> First the Judge has quality Beer.... and even Better wine... I am thinking
> of a 89er from the Rhinegau in an Ausse lasse...
>
> Now where was I... Oh yeah Concours.... While in Germany I had the
> opportunity to see some suburb craftsmanship in the restoration of several
> cars.... I think your attention to detail and manner in which you preserve
> the Marque is Much better then the American standard... What I agreed with
> is the inability to accept substandard work....
>
> I won't mention names as it's not important.... but I had the opportunity to
> see a Concours car here .... I had heard alot about the car and when I
> actually got up to see it... the car was absolutely UGLY.... very Very ahhh
> BORING.... There was none of the quality I expected to see.... the paint
> job was one of the worst I have ever seen.... But it was " Correct "
>
> John Hunt's BJ8 would be an exception to this.... it is absolutely
> Stunning.... But I don't think John could accept any kind of substandard
> work...
>
> This will undoubtably cause several Flames .... and it's not my intent... to
> bad mouth our standard.... But what it represents is the people who are in
> charge of defining our rules... saying what is Correct and what isn't....
> it's thier opinion...
> The " As it left the factory " isn't the only option here ...
>
> Last but not least.... You have to remember that this whole deal is about
> Volunteers doing this on thier own time... and for our folks that are
> interested in Concours these are the choices they have made... it's thier
> interest in this Hobby.... They absolutely Get to Pick what is " Correct "
> Personally I respect their interest as much as I do the Nasty Boys.... and
> Popular Class cars.... it's all part of the hobby...
>
> Keith Turk ( http://downtown.ala.net/~kturk/camaro3001.htm )
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 2:39 AM
> Subject: Concours-Standard
>
> >
> > Some thoughts/reflections from Germany (not very serious)!
> >
> > It is a little bit funny for me to hear what you Americans are doing
> preparing
> > a Healey to American Concours Standard.
> > As I understand the discussion right, to go for concours in America is to
> copy
> > the factory standard in all details. That means for me having bad
> gaps/fittings
> > of boot and trunk, doors perhaps. No rust prevention, engine painted with
> > ancillaries (including cooling fan belt), bad painted radiator, paint
> marks on
> > bolts, painted chrome parts etc. All shortcomings of the mass production
> are
> > copied for getting a "perfect" concours car. Is it that you are looking
> for?
> > I heard from a friend who was invited to America a few years ago to judge
> > concours and he learned that it may took 5 hours just to judge 2 Healeys.
> I
> > think that is very disappointing for the owner of the car and boring job
> for
> > the judge. How many days/weeks does it take to prepare such a car for
> > concours? I have got 3 Healeys and I love the cars, the marque, all and
> > everything going around Healeys. A part of my life is to preserve the
> Healey
> > heritage. But on the other hand the factory finish of a Healey was far
> away
> > from nice. Healeys were cheap sportscars, not at all perfect. Healey
> engines,
> > transmissions, suspensions were far away what made a real sportscar. If
> you
> > restore/rebuilt a Healey in the way they would have built it at Jensens,
> at the
> > factory Longbridge or Abingdon when they had plenty of time and resources
> > (using all original parts, colours, of course not the old bolts, just
> doing it
> > a little bit more perfect) you may get a much better Healey which should
> get
> > the same points in concours than a car just leaving the factory in
> original
> > spec. I think that is what we are doing here in Europe -
> European-Standard.
> >
> > As I said, just some reflections
> >
> > Cheers
> > Josef Eckert
> > Koenigswinter, Germany
> > BN1, MKII BT7, Sprite MKIII
From jclose at sduhsd.k12.ca.us
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 14:08:08 -0800
Subject: Re:Holden[s]
Well said, John - I don't think we need to call each other names, especially
over minor matters, such as whether or not a company should charge customers for
its catalog. - JohnC
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 14:09:10 -0600
Subject: Re: Re: Concours-Standard
Ain't opinions Grand.... It is the diversity that makes this Hobby
Great.... I have older Concours Standards...for both my Hundred and the
Bugeye but I most likely won't update them.... .. I use them to see how
things were done.... and Often times modify my cars to my taste..as I don't
care about building a concours car.. But I honestly respect your right to
do that... and I respect your intensity as it's applied to the Hobby.... (
as I have said before... I can even become fascinated by guys like Roger
Moment in his Pursuit of what is correct )
My Racing Partner and Oldest Friend... collects tractors...( now here is a
weird hobby ) and I respect that too.... It's about all of us learning and
sharing our thoughts here.. Not flushing them...
You might consider your tolerance level an issue... Yes in the world of
Lists some subjects do reappear and often those same folks... Like
Me...voice our opinion each time... Keep in mind .... we also have STRONG
opinions
Respectfully
Keith Turk.... Long Time Member of the Healey Club and an ardent supporter
of anything Healey To include those Nasty Boys...
----------
> From: busyrider@springmail.com
> To: Arjay <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
> Cc: Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de; Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net>;
healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Re: Concours-Standard
> Date: Thursday, January 04, 2001 1:46 PM
>
> This drivel surfaces as often as one of the four seasons and the
comments/criticism that begin these threads are about as noteworthy as what
gets flushed down a toilet.
>
> The people that truly understand Healey concours standards know that they
serve as a means to preserve a manufactured item in no different a manner
than any other effort to preserve a significant timepiece, piece of
furniture, coin silver, architecture, or what have you.
>
> It is my understanding that an owner does not have to trailer a car to
expect to do well in concours judging.
>
> It would be interesting to know how many contributors to this thread have
ever read the Healey concours standards before they expressed negative
comments.
>
> Busyboy Fred Criswell
>
> On Thu, 04 Jan 2001 08:00:13 -0500 Arjay <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
wrote:
>
>
> I have to jump into this one. I like quality beer, too. I like judges who
drink
> Quality beer, while judging, even better.
>
> Josef, the reason we go to such idiotic, finite points is that as
Americans, we
> have choices. Some of us have time and/ or money on our hands, so we go
to
> idiotic lengths to spend that money and justify it as an investment. I
have now
> spent four years of writing checks to a man whose business is hell-bent
on
> making my Austin Healey a "proper" cheap sports car so that I can take it
to a
> concours show and show it as authentic. I have spent tens of thousands of
> dollars to make it like the $4,000 car it was. And I'm damned proud of
it. It's
> the most beautiful car that I have owned. Drive it? Why? I have other
cars that
> I drive.
>
> In the meantime, pass me another Quality beer, please.
>
> Danka.
>
> Bob Denton
>
> Keith Turk wrote:
>
> > Josef..... Having attended several meets in Germany I absolutely agree
that
> > you folks have a couple of things Right!!!
> >
> > First the Judge has quality Beer.... and even Better wine... I am
thinking
> > of a 89er from the Rhinegau in an Ausse lasse...
> >
> > Now where was I... Oh yeah Concours.... While in Germany I had the
> > opportunity to see some suburb craftsmanship in the restoration of
several
> > cars.... I think your attention to detail and manner in which you
preserve
> > the Marque is Much better then the American standard... What I agreed
with
> > is the inability to accept substandard work....
> >
> > I won't mention names as it's not important.... but I had the
opportunity to
> > see a Concours car here .... I had heard alot about the car and when I
> > actually got up to see it... the car was absolutely UGLY.... very Very
ahhh
> > BORING.... There was none of the quality I expected to see.... the
paint
> > job was one of the worst I have ever seen.... But it was " Correct "
> >
> > John Hunt's BJ8 would be an exception to this.... it is absolutely
> > Stunning.... But I don't think John could accept any kind of
substandard
> > work...
> >
> > This will undoubtably cause several Flames .... and it's not my
intent... to
> > bad mouth our standard.... But what it represents is the people who are
in
> > charge of defining our rules... saying what is Correct and what
isn't....
> > it's thier opinion...
> > The " As it left the factory " isn't the only option here ...
> >
> > Last but not least.... You have to remember that this whole deal is
about
> > Volunteers doing this on thier own time... and for our folks that are
> > interested in Concours these are the choices they have made... it's
thier
> > interest in this Hobby.... They absolutely Get to Pick what is "
Correct "
> > Personally I respect their interest as much as I do the Nasty Boys....
and
> > Popular Class cars.... it's all part of the hobby...
> >
> > Keith Turk ( http://downtown.ala.net/~kturk/camaro3001.htm )
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 2:39 AM
> > Subject: Concours-Standard
> >
> > >
> > > Some thoughts/reflections from Germany (not very serious)!
> > >
> > > It is a little bit funny for me to hear what you Americans are doing
> > preparing
> > > a Healey to American Concours Standard.
> > > As I understand the discussion right, to go for concours in America
is to
> > copy
> > > the factory standard in all details. That means for me having bad
> > gaps/fittings
> > > of boot and trunk, doors perhaps. No rust prevention, engine painted
with
> > > ancillaries (including cooling fan belt), bad painted radiator, paint
> > marks on
> > > bolts, painted chrome parts etc. All shortcomings of the mass
production
> > are
> > > copied for getting a "perfect" concours car. Is it that you are
looking
> > for?
> > > I heard from a friend who was invited to America a few years ago to
judge
> > > concours and he learned that it may took 5 hours just to judge 2
Healeys.
> > I
> > > think that is very disappointing for the owner of the car and boring
job
> > for
> > > the judge. How many days/weeks does it take to prepare such a car
for
> > > concours? I have got 3 Healeys and I love the cars, the marque, all
and
> > > everything going around Healeys. A part of my life is to preserve the
> > Healey
> > > heritage. But on the other hand the factory finish of a Healey was
far
> > away
> > > from nice. Healeys were cheap sportscars, not at all perfect. Healey
> > engines,
> > > transmissions, suspensions were far away what made a real sportscar.
If
> > you
> > > restore/rebuilt a Healey in the way they would have built it at
Jensens,
> > at the
> > > factory Longbridge or Abingdon when they had plenty of time and
resources
> > > (using all original parts, colours, of course not the old bolts, just
> > doing it
> > > a little bit more perfect) you may get a much better Healey which
should
> > get
> > > the same points in concours than a car just leaving the factory in
> > original
> > > spec. I think that is what we are doing here in Europe -
> > European-Standard.
> > >
> > > As I said, just some reflections
> > >
> > > Cheers
> > > Josef Eckert
> > > Koenigswinter, Germany
> > > BN1, MKII BT7, Sprite MKIII
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 21:47:54 +0100
Subject: Catalogues
> > FYI--they charge over $6 for a catalog. ("Total cost: # 4.00 [ex VAT and
> > shipping where applicable]"). It's hard to do business with a company like
> > that. John Trifari 1955 BN1/1965 BJ8
> Besides, do you really think Moss and others just "give" you those "free"
> catalogs? Your paying for them one way or another!
Theres NOTHING like a free lunch... .huh??
But I guess....... if you REALLY wanna be cheap.... you get the "free"
catalogues from the guys making the buyers pay indirectly.. then you BUY your
parts from the guys that charges you for catalogues.
Sounds like a plan, huh?.... ;-)
E.Larssen 60BT7
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 16:08:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
Just curious, but I wonder how many of the oft-driven Concours Healey's are
driven in the rain. For that matter, how many of any Healey's are driven in
the rain.
Not mine I confess...
---
Lee Mairs
'62 Mk II Tri-carb
---
Whether the State is trying to retain its legitimacy or fight for its
life, as in time of war, it must generally control what the people
think. Public schooling is one of the major means the State uses to
accomplish this. Another is by legislating the criminal boundaries
of what is and what is not acceptable criticism.
-- Carl Watner, The Voluntaryist
From TC <tm-c at gmx.net>
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 22:07:32 +0100
Subject: Question on Ground converters
Hi all,
Happy New Year to start with.
Unfortunately I4m no expert in electronics, so :
How do these ground converters work/ help when installing a modern neg
ground radio ?
Does it it solve the problem of having to isolate the radio completely
from the rest of the car, incl. the antenna?
Cheers,
Thomas Cremer
467 BJ8
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 15:40:08 -0600
Subject: RE: Question on Ground converters
Hi,
Well, I'll take a stab at your question of how they work and apologize in
advance if I'm telling you things that you already know and weren't part of
your question.
Most, if not all ground converters are DC-DC converters. These are also
used almost universally in car amplifiers that produce high output wattage
because, simply put, a 12 volt system only allows so much current through a
load, such as a speaker.
The fundamental principle is to take the 12 volt input and chop it rapidly
on and off, generating a square wave, or pulse train. If this switching is
done on the primary side of a transformer, you can generate any voltage you
desire on the secondary by selecting the number of turns there. Of course,
in practice, there are lots of design issues with these animals (some regard
them as a mix of science and art).
If the secondary winding is electrically isolated from the primary, you can
take one end of it and connect it to chassis, thereby forcing it to "earth".
The other side of the secondary then becomes your isolated voltage, either
positive or negative. A ground converter essentially ties the negative
output of the secondary to chassis, yielding a positive voltage with respect
to the chassis, which is what a modern radio looks for. Since the input
does not care what polarity the chassis was, you have a perfect solution.
If you look at the prices across different brands, you'll see quite a bit of
variation. This has a lot to do with the quality of the DC/DC converter
design as there are some clean ones and some filthy ones, noise-wise. You
get what you pay for in this arena.
A proper DC/DC unit should solve the issue of isolating a radio from chassis
completely. Think of it this way, the chassis of the car is at +12 volts
with respect to the power wire that feeds the converter (call it the hot
wire); the radio case is connected to +12 but the output of the DC/DC is at
+24 volts with respect to the hot wire (and at +12 with respect to the
chassis), therefore, the radio is operating off +12 volts.
Okay, I've almost confused myself...hope this made sense.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: TC [mailto:tm-c@gmx.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 1:08 PM
To: healeys-owner@autox.team.net; Healey Chat
Subject: Question on Ground converters
Hi all,
Happy New Year to start with.
Unfortunately I4m no expert in electronics, so :
How do these ground converters work/ help when installing a modern neg
ground radio ?
Does it it solve the problem of having to isolate the radio completely
from the rest of the car, incl. the antenna?
Cheers,
Thomas Cremer
467 BJ8
From "Paul Cleary" <pcleary at ican.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 17:01:08 -0500
Subject: New Carpet...
Thank you to those that responded. It is appreciated.
It is funny to read all these letters about concourse cars. I bought mine to
drive and take pleasure in attending the various meets in my area. My car is
far from concourse I use it in all weathers, (except snow), and it gives me
great pleasure when I win a place in shows, of which the judging is by the
people at the show.
They dont care about concourse, but rather enjoy the car for what it is. I am
new to this list, and find it funny to see alot of familar names. This list
should be posted in the healey club magazines for all to enjoy.
I would like to say hi to Steve Byers, Mike Salter and Rich Chrysler, I own
Rich's first Healey, A 1967 BJ8, its been through hell and back but still
going strong. He should tell the story of this car sometime, its very
interesting.
I look forward to all the upcoming listings.
Regards to all.
Paul Cleary.
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 17:40:20 EST
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
In a message dated 1/4/01 4:04:06 PM Eastern Standard Time, lmairs@cox.rr.com
writes:
<< For that matter, how many of any Healey's are driven in
the rain. >>
only when it is raining......
Michael Oritt, BN1
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 16:52:22 -0600
Subject: Re: Concours-/ Rain...
John Hunt was willing to drive his in the Rain... Very impressive....
Keith ( don't think I would... but John know's the deal...)
----------
> From: Awgertoo@aol.com
> To: lmairs@cox.rr.com; rwil@cts.com; Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
> Date: Thursday, January 04, 2001 4:40 PM
>
>
> In a message dated 1/4/01 4:04:06 PM Eastern Standard Time,
lmairs@cox.rr.com
> writes:
>
> << For that matter, how many of any Healey's are driven in
> the rain. >>
>
> only when it is raining......
>
> Michael Oritt, BN1
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 17:56:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Question on Ground converters
Hi, TC -
I have a previously-owned Archer (Radio Shack) converter in my BJ8. My
modern negative ground radio is mounted directly to the console, and the
antenna to the body of the car and the radio works just fine without any
isolation.
My dim understanding of how the converter works is that the converter takes
the -12 volt input and boosts it 24 volts so that the output with respect to
the chassis is +12 volts. As long as the input is +12 volts with respect
to the ground, the radio doesn't care.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: TC <tm-c@gmx.net>
To: healeys-owner@autox.team.net <healeys-owner@autox.team.net>; Healey Chat
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, January 04, 2001 4:34 PM
Subject: Question on Ground converters
>
>Hi all,
>
>Happy New Year to start with.
>
>Unfortunately I4m no expert in electronics, so :
>
>How do these ground converters work/ help when installing a modern neg
>ground radio ?
>
>Does it it solve the problem of having to isolate the radio completely
>from the rest of the car, incl. the antenna?
>
>Cheers,
>
>Thomas Cremer
>467 BJ8
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 15:09:23 -0800
Subject: One more on keys
For kicks I looked at my original keys, and just wanted to add one small
fact about them. I have a locking gas cap on my BJ8. Its key, like my
others, is a Wilmot. Now the same key that fits my glovebox and trunk will
also unlock my gas cap, and the "regular" glovebox/trunk key will also open
the gas cap, but they have two different profiles and different stamped
numbers. I'm guessing maybe when the locks were new one of the keys
wouldn't operate one of the locks! Anyway, the gas cap itself is also
marked Wilmot. Did the factory supply locking gas caps?
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 15:11:02 -0800
Subject: Sorry for the duped key note
Didn't see the first one in my outbox.
From "Phil Nase" <pnase at enter.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 18:48:53 -0500
Subject: FW: [911] Obituary: John Cooper, CBE
Ken Freese asked for this and I thought the entire list would be interested.
Phil Nase
>
> >From the December 27 Daily Telegraph:
>
>
> John Cooper
>
> JOHN COOPER, who has died aged 77, was one of the great figures in the
> history of motor racing; his Cooper-Climax cars were the force behind Jack
> Brabham's dominance of the drivers' championship in the early 1960s, while
> his Mini Cooper was destined to become a symbol of the decade itself.
>
> Cooper and his small design team at Cooper Cars first came up with a
> rear-engined sports car in 1955. Based around a Coventry Climax firepump
> engine, the "Bobtail" Cooper-Climax was without peer in its class. By
> narrowing the chassis and fitting slender bodywork which left suspension
> and wheels exposed, Cooper then created a rear-engined Formula Two car
> which could easily be upgraded to meet the demands of Formula One.
>
> By 1957, the Australian Jack Brabham had joined Coopers, and a 2-litre
> version of the Formula Two car was entered for the Monaco Grand Prix.
> Brabham pushed it home in sixth, having been third. On twisting circuits,
> the nimble rear-engined Cooper could challenge the comparatively
> flat-footed Ferraris, Maseratis and Vanwalls which traditionally competed
> for places on the podium.
>
> The next year, in the Argentine Grand Prix, Stirling Moss drove a Cooper
> to a first world championship victory by the rear-engined car, and at
> Monaco another Cooper won, this time driven by Maurice Trintignant.
>
> The persuasive Cooper then managed to talk Coventry Climax into building
> full-sized 2-litre engines for his works' drivers - Brabham and Bruce
> McLaren - and under his direction Coopers promptly won both the 1959 and
> 1960 Formula One constructors' titles, while Brabham took two consecutive
> world champion drivers' titles. By 1962 every Formula One marque had put
> their engines where Cooper had his - behind the driver.
>
> In the mid-1940s, Cooper had competed against Alec Issigonis, the designer
> of the Mini, in hill-climbs. Soon after its launch in the mid-1960s,
> Cooper suggested to George Harriman, head of the British Motor Corporation
> (the Mini's manufacturer), that he should market a tuned-up version.
> Harriman doubted that he could sell more than 1,000; the final total of
> owners attracted by Cooper's modifications exceeded 125,000.
>
> Cooper was consulted regularly about improvements to the design and an
> entire family of Mini Cooper variants evolved, among them the Mini Cooper
> S. The Mini Cooper lorded it over rally racing for the rest of the 1960s,
> winning multiple championships and four consecutive Monte Carlo rallies
> between 1964 and 1967.
>
> It was the first economy car to become a status symbol, the height of
> chic. Its owners included King Hussein of Jordan and members of The
> Beatles. "Drive a Mini Cooper - the most fun you can have with your
> clothes on!" ran the advertisements. "If your tyres survive more than
> 2,000 miles, you've driven like a wimp."
>
> At the end of the decade the car featured prominently in the film The
> Italian Job (1969), in which Michael Caine and his team of bullion raiders
> made the most of the Mini's virtues of small size and great speed to
> escape pursuit via the roofs, sewers and marble staircases of Turin. The
> Minis were painted red, white and blue, and the film not only helped boost
> sales of the Mini Cooper all over the world but, by identifying the car
> with a time of great British style and ingenuity, helped it also to attain
> immortality.
>
> John Newton Cooper was born on July 17 1923 at Kingston, Surrey. His
> father Charles ran a modest garage in nearby Surbiton; among the cars he
> maintained for customers was the Wolseley "Viper" raced at Brooklands by
> Kaye Don. When John was eight, his father made him a half-scale car with a
> motorcycle engine. At 12, he was given a lightweight Austin 7-based
> special capable of 90mph; he tried it out at Brooklands but was chased off
> the track by enraged officials.
>
> On leaving Surbiton County School at 15, John became an apprentice
> toolmaker, and after RAF service in 1944-45, he and his friend Eric
> Brandon (later a successful racing driver) built themselves a
> single-seater racing car for the new 500cc class. Two scrap Fiat 500
> front-ends were welded together to provide an independently suspended
> chassis, on to which was mounted a 500cc motorcycle engine behind the
> driver's seat to chain-drive the back axle.
>
> Wearing sheet aluminium bodywork, this first Cooper racing car was very
> successful, and a second was built for Brandon in 1947. Cooper and his
> father then founded the Cooper Car Company to build a batch of 12 replica
> 500s for sale. One of their first buyers was the 18-year old Stirling
> Moss.
>
> The Cooper Car Company quickly became the first, and largest, post-war
> specialist racing car manufacturer; Lotus, Lola and March - among others -
> would follow them. While John Cooper provided the firm's enthusiasm and
> drive, Charles Cooper kept control of the firm's finances.
>
> John Cooper was also a very capable racing driver in his own right. In
> 1952 at Grenzlandring he scored the first 500cc race to be won at an
> average of more than 100mph, and the next year drove his streamlined works
> car to victory in the Avus Speedbowl, Berlin. He also enjoyed first places
> at Monza and at Rouen.
>
> In the early 1950s, Coopers diversified into front-engined sports and
> single-seater racing cars. The first British world champion driver, Mike
> Hawthorn, first made his mark in a 1952 Cooper-Bristol Grand Prix.
>
> A warm, even extrovert man, John Cooper relished every moment of his fame,
> although he was perhaps never the same after being badly injured in 1963
> when his prototype four-wheel drive Mini Cooper crashed. It was many
> months before he was fully fit, and in 1965 - the year after his father
> died - he sold the Cooper Car Company to the Chipstead Motor Group.
>
> Although he continued to co-direct the Formula One racing team until 1969,
> when it was disbanded, from the mid-Sixties onwards its homegrown
> construction was overtaken by more sophisticated and better-funded
> technology at Lola, Lotus, BRM and Ferrari. Characteristically, Cooper
> never felt any envy as his company was upstaged.
>
> He retired to the Sussex coast, where he founded the garage business at
> Ferring, near Worthing, which still bears his name. Recently, he had been
> much cheered by the decision of Rover to develop a new generation of Mini
> Coopers, primarily for enthusiasts in Japan. Rover's new owner, BMW, has
> embraced the project, and just before his death Cooper was delighted to
> see his son drive the prototype BMW Mini Cooper.
>
> John Cooper was appointed CBE last year. He leaves a wife, a son and
> daughter. Another daughter predeceased him.
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 16:39:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: 4-seater backseats question
I was shotblasting my backseat shells and I spotted traces of a
protective "something" on the street side of the shells, over the
holes used to tie down the vinyl cushion. This protection was missing
from the start and I have never seen a picture of the back of the
rear seats.
Does anyone know what this protection is made of and what it should
look like?
Thanks in advance
Francois
Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 16:43:33 -0800
Subject: Re: FW: [911] Obituary: John Cooper, CBE
There was a good two-part series about John Cooper on Speedvision's Legends
of Motorsport. They repeat a lot, definitely worth a look.
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 20:08:26 EST
Subject: Re: Fan belt for 100
In a message dated 01/04/2001 10:51:26 AM Mountain Standard Time,
john@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
<< l number of cases.
The Austin large four cylinder engines such as those fitted to A70s and
A90s had a dynamo/generator Pulley 1B 1114 which was 4 1/8" in diameter.
Most Austin-Healey 100s were fitted with a pulley 1B 1727 which is 3
5/8" diameter. I have noticed that in many cases the same belt is called
up in both applications. Not all suppliers seem to recognise that there
was a change.
>>
I'll bet this is why lmy NOS 100 belt doesn't fit! Good points. Many
thanks, John.
Roger
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 20:08:23 EST
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
In a message dated 01/04/2001 2:04:00 PM Mountain Standard Time,
lmairs@cox.rr.com writes:
<<
Just curious, but I wonder how many of the oft-driven Concours Healey's are
driven in the rain. For that matter, how many of any Healey's are driven in
the rain. >>
I've been caught in downpours on a number of occasions in both of my Gold
concours cars. The 100 got thoroughly soaked in the inside front (good old
vintage scuttle seals and leaking winshield seal). Had to pull out the
carpet and felt on the 3000 too for drying. Just a fact of life. A good
cleaning with Simple Green and a hose gets 98% of the dirt out. The rest our
judging standards don't quibble over.
Roger
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 18:05:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Removing glass from gauges
Actually the o-rings and the glass for that matter are available and
inexpensive. Try MOMA in Albuquerque.
Bill Lawrence
"Merchant, Adnan" wrote:
> Hi,
>
> The bezels on the gauges are "bayoneted" on, that is, they can, in theory,
> be rotated off (if you examine the tabs, this will become clear). The
> problem is that the gasket that they used between the glass and bezel turns
> into some kind of immovable glue.
>
> My method was to add a few drops of acetone at the glass/bezel interface and
> allow it to wick in to attack the gasket and loosen things up. I also had
> to assist the bezels on one gauge by lifting the tabs slightly.
>
> You will have to replace that gasket with some suitable material; I used
> thin-walled silicone tubing which works very well.
>
> Regards,
> Adnan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ross Leonard [mailto:rkleonard@sympatico.ca]
> Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 7:24 AM
> To: 'Healey List'
> Subject: Removing glass from gauges
>
> Good Day,
>
> Would anyone have any good tips for removing the glass from Healey gauges
> without chipping or cracking them? They seem to be glued in, or just really
> stuck from age.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Ross.
> '64 BJ8
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 19:04:59 -0600
Subject: Re: New Carpet...
<<It is funny to read all these letters about concourse cars>>
Even in your "neck of the woods", Paul I believe you have "shopping
Concourses", right??
Cheers..........
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 19:24:30 -0600
Subject: Re: [healeys] 2001 Calendars
<<eGroups Sponsor >>
What the He*l, Beth?? We aren't making enough ectra $$ selling the Mailing
List to every Tom, Dick and Harry??
YOU have to have a "sponcered" email??
Gimme a dam*ed break!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Oh, I am sorry, guess the new MG rag ain't gonna make any $$ the first
couple of years so YOU have to have a "free" and "sponcered" address.
Right??
Ed
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 19:29:19 -0600
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
<<The 100 got thoroughly soaked in the inside front (good old
vintage scuttle seals and leaking winshield seal). Had to pull out the
carpet and felt on the 3000 too for drying. >>
Anyone remember "Goldies" FIRST outing?? Ask Inan (with VERY stinky
room<G>)!!
Felt, carpet, leather, and vinyl all smell GEAT compared to MINK!!!!
Ed
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 19:31:30 -0600
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
<<For that matter, how many of any Healey's are driven in
the rain.
>>
Rain?, whats that?? Bruce and Inan have seen me TWICE where I got caught in
snow deep enough (on first time) where I could nor even FIND Hortense!!
Rain?? Piece of cake!!!
Ed
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 19:42:53 -0600
Subject: RE: Removing glass from gauges
Hi,
When I rebuilt my gauges, the seal between the glass and bezel was not
available (I had called both Nisonger and Mo-Ma). The o-rings you mention
- sure those aren't the ones that go between the gauge and dash? Those
have been available for a long time.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: ynotink [mailto:ynotink@qwest.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 5:06 PM
To: Merchant, Adnan
Cc: 'Ross Leonard'; 'Healey List'
Subject: Re: Removing glass from gauges
Actually the o-rings and the glass for that matter are available and
inexpensive. Try MOMA in Albuquerque.
Bill Lawrence
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 18:45:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
Hi all,
I've been receiving the Healeys list in digest form these past couple of
weeks (which means I receive it delayed at least several hours) because I've
been traveling and will be traveling for the next couple of weeks also, so
please forgive if the below points have already been made in this
discussion. However, I just wanted to add a little info about concours in
the continuing struggle to explode the myths that surround the subject.
First, we of the Concours Committee do not require or encourage anyone to
restore their cars with original faults (as the Corvette people do, complete
with mandatory, factory-original overspray in certain places). Instead, our
philosophy is that cars should be restored to the way that the designers
*intended* them to be produced. For example, no designer intends for his
car to have poor door gaps, but through faults of materials, processes
and/or workmanship, such gaps can be uneven. It would be silly to try to
reproduce these imperfections. Heck, I've seen original Healeys with
obvious runs in the paint, but we would never suggest that anyone restoring
a car should put runs in their paint because "that's the way they came from
the factory." So please, let's get over this idea that faults or mistakes
or other unfortunate, unintended original features of the cars must be
duplicated to avoid a deduction in concours. Simply t'aint so.
Second, the vast majority of "concours cars" are driven and never trailed.
I know of only a very, very few "concours cars" that are ever trailed. So
please, let's get over this idea that a "concours car" is some museum piece
that never sees the light of day and never turns a wheel under its own
power. Simply t'aint so.
Third, that brings up another point I like to make, and that is that a
"concours car" (and there's no exact definition of what that means, other
than perhaps any car ever submitted for concours judging) does not have to
be, and never is, a "perfect car." We judge on a 1000-point basis, and each
of those 1000 points can be split into halves. To achieve the highest
rating -- "Gold" -- a car must achieve 950 or more points. That means that
it can be penalized 50 points and *still achieve the highest rating.* And,
since each of those 50 points can be split in half, that means that a car
could have up to 100 half-point deductions *and still achieve the highest
rating.* 100 faults is a lot of faults. And remember, to achieve 850
points -- the minimum total needed to achieve the Bronze level -- a car
could have 300 faults and still be "concours certified." So please, let's
get over this idea that concours cars are perfect or even near-perfect.
Simply t'aint so.
Fourth, it is a continuing source of curiosity (and occasionally mild
exasperation) to observe the persistent myths, misunderstandings, and
misperceptions surrounding the subject of "concours." Frankly sometimes it
seems like the less someone knows about, the more they dislike and disparage
it! No, it's not for everyone, but no one is forced to participate. We
judges don't go around searching out cars to judge, against the owner's
desires, just so that we can present him/her with a list of "faults." We
make every effort to make the experience positive by providing (1)
recognition and (2) information on how to improve the originality of the
cars, FOR THOSE WHO WANT IT. So please, let's get over this idea that
concours judges are on a mission to attack anyone's self-esteem or criticize
their car. Simply t'aint so.
Heck, I'm a concours judge myself and although one of my four Austin-Healeys
is a "concours car," my latest acquisition is a Bugeye with a 1275 cc
engine, a Datsun 5-speed gearbox, front disc brakes and some other
non-original mods. And you know what? It's an absolute hoot to drive and I
love it! No, it wouldn't do too well in concours, but that is utterly and
completely irrelevant and I don't feel threatened or belittled or excluded
in any way just because there are some concours-Gold Bugeyes out there that
are much more original.
I guess you could say that concours is a little like the space program
(although in one important way its even better since your taxes are not
used to subsidize concours if you dont participate, its completely
free!). Anyway its like the space program in this regard: Not everyone
goes into space, and no one is required to. However, almost everyone reaps
some spin-off benefits from it in one form or another, so whether you
directly participate or not, you should be happy that it's there.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2
2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 21:45:42 -0500
Subject: Re: New Carpet...
Paul Cleary wrote:
<snip>
> It is funny to read all these letters about concourse cars. I bought mine
to
> drive and take pleasure in attending the various meets in my area. My car
is
> far from concourse I use it in all weathers, (except snow), and it gives
me
> great pleasure when I win a place in shows, of which the judging is by the
> people at the show.
>
> They dont care about concourse, but rather enjoy the car for what it is. I
am
> new to this list, and find it funny to see alot of familar names. This
list
> should be posted in the healey club magazines for all to enjoy.
>
> I would like to say hi to Steve Byers, Mike Salter and Rich Chrysler, I
own
> Rich's first Healey, A 1967 BJ8, its been through hell and back but still
> going strong. He should tell the story of this car sometime, its very
> interesting.
This Concours thread has been very interesting AGAIN! I note that many of
the comments have been stated by those who haven't actually read the
policies, guidelines, or the standards, to really understand the whole
thing, but have their opinion to share none the less.
We "nuts" involved in the concours movement have worked very hard over the
years to record an "intended manufacturing standard". This means that the
assembly standards of the time, though often falling far short of the
intentions of quality, fit, and finish, still aimed at good panel fit, good
paint, and good overall quality of finish.
We have attempted to "draw a line in the sand" so that interested
individuals could have a standard to at least aim for, and so that judges in
turn could have a line to measure from.
If one was to read our guidelines, one would soon realize that we have tried
to gear our policies to encourage owners to build the car as accurately as
possible, but from the moment the car is finished to use the car.
I have over the years built, driven thousands of miles, and shown three of
my cars on concours judging fields. The cars were good enough to achieve
gold levels, and in turn were driven thousands of miles afterward. I have
tried never to abuse the cars, but to drive them well and often, and to
always encourage others to do the same.
My enjoyment in this hobby is to strive to experience what a new fresh tight
Healey must have been like to see, drive, and enjoy, and to try to help
others to achieve this same experience.
Rich Chrysler
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 22:23:01 EST
Subject: Re: One more on keys
In a message dated 1/4/01 5:11:51 PM Central Standard Time,
bkatz@handsonresearch.com writes:
> ! Anyway, the gas cap itself is also
> marked Wilmot. Did the factory supply locking gas caps?
>
> Brian, no, & your gas cap is worthless, you should send it to me
> immediately!
From "Greg Monfort" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 22:35:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Update on high rpm running
>This longer screws binds the
> top plate against the back plate not allowing any
advance under acceleration.
>
> Also found that the vacuum advance unit did not
work. Perhaps a result of the
> above?
====
Probably. :^))
====
Fortunately had one on had that did work and
replaced. I now have a
> working system. However, on the road test there
was still the same symptoms
> mentioned above!
====
After relocating the screws, can you move the plate
by sucking on the vacuum hose? If so, and it holds a
vacuum, then it's OK.
====
>
> Thought I would try swapping coils. Road test, and
car ran fine. Just for
> grins decided to check the old coil again - car ran
fine! What is going on
> here???????
====
Poor connection you inadvertently corrected? A high
resistance connection at the points, and/or
points/plate, coil, can cause this type of
drivability problem.
====
> Also, was advised to check the slack in the timng
chain. Found that when
> reversing the direction of rotation of the crank
that there was 3/4 inch
> travel of the timing mark before any motion in the
rotor button. Is this
> excessive?
====
Well, you have the lash tolerance of the primary
gears plus the distributor drive lash tolerance, but
it's excessive by the standards I used when
rebuilding engines, though I don't know what the old
A-H specs are.
I guess that's a question for the pro restorers to
answer.
====
>Is this a possible cause of my woes?
====
Not really.
====
>
> Should I do a valve adjustment?
====
Only if they need it. :^)) With the slack you seem to
have, an accurate static adjustment would be a
hit-or-miss thing. Do a go/no go check while it's
running to determine which, if any, need adjusting.
====
>
> Any thoughts out there?
====
Sounds like you already found your problem, or did I
miss something?
Happy New Year to one and all. :^))
GM
>
> Keith Pennell
> BJ8 BN7
From LBCarNut <LBCarNut at carolina.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 22:41:48 -0500
Subject: Convertible top installation?
Listers,
While dissassembling the retaining rail from the wood top bow on my 59
BN4 there was a putty like substance between the rail and the bow. Is
this supposed to be there and if so what can I use to replace it? It
almost looks like plumbers putty and seems to have done a remarkable job
of preserving the wood from moisture.
Thanks,
Peter Samaroo
Charlotte NC
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 23:17:22 -0500
Subject: locking gas caps
Hello,
My BJ8 64 came with a Tudor cap, rounded on the top with fine line ridges on
the side and a sliding key cover. I posted this once before does anybody
have one of these or see them on other marques? I have a question about the
gasket materials on the inner parts as mine desintigrated. Seemed to be a
white hard plastic so the inner parts could rotate (friction reducer).
Carroll
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 23:26:49 -0500
Subject: Guage gaskets
The gaskets inbetween the bezel and the glass are avail from Nisonger. They
were the correct tube type but seemed a little wide and a real bear to
install . Tokk a little lube to do the job. The gaskets for guage to dash
are readily avail. from Moss. Also I have had some results from Hardware
stores for the smaller guages or plumbing supply. You can also search for
rolls of capillary tubing in the for the bezel to glass type. Cut and glue
ends. Se emed to be about 3mm O.D.
Carroll
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 21:58:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Removing glass from gauges
Adnan,
The Service Parts List, page O.2 show only the rubber rings that goes
between the glass and the bezel. There does not appear to be an
o-ring between the dash and the gauges. I think the o-rings offered
for sale in the catalogs are the correct replacement seal for the
glass to bezel. I don't see any reasonable purpose for a seal between
the dash and the gauges. The sales catalog pictures aren't always
accurate.
Mark Fawcett
----- Original Message -----
From: Merchant, Adnan <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>
To: 'ynotink' <ynotink@qwest.net>
Cc: 'Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 5:42 PM
Subject: RE: Removing glass from gauges
>
> Hi,
>
> When I rebuilt my gauges, the seal between the glass and bezel was
not
> available (I had called both Nisonger and Mo-Ma). The o-rings you
mention
> - sure those aren't the ones that go between the gauge and dash?
Those
> have been available for a long time.
>
> Regards,
> Adnan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ynotink [mailto:ynotink@qwest.net]
> Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 5:06 PM
> To: Merchant, Adnan
> Cc: 'Ross Leonard'; 'Healey List'
> Subject: Re: Removing glass from gauges
>
> Actually the o-rings and the glass for that matter are available and
> inexpensive. Try MOMA in Albuquerque.
>
> Bill Lawrence
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 22:43:40 -0800
Subject: Re: Question on Ground converters
TC: They can work very well. I have one installed on my BJ8 that runs my
cruise control and driving computer (cruise control and driving computer??
Guess I won't have to worry about those concours standards). I'm using
Archer (Radio Shack) ones purchased years ago.
I ran my CB for years on another one until I found out that newer CBs came
positive OR negative ground. Just reverse the wires - red to ground, black
to power. The CB and antenna are not grounded internally to the case.
You might try to find a modern radio that is positive and/or negative ground
and thereby eliminate the need for the converter.
Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "TC" <tm-c@gmx.net>
To: <healeys-owner@autox.team.net>; "Healey Chat" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 1:07 PM
Subject: Question on Ground converters
>
> Hi all,
>
> Happy New Year to start with.
>
> Unfortunately I4m no expert in electronics, so :
>
> How do these ground converters work/ help when installing a modern neg
> ground radio ?
>
> Does it it solve the problem of having to isolate the radio completely
> from the rest of the car, incl. the antenna?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Thomas Cremer
> 467 BJ8
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 03:18:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
Wow! When this thread began I thought it began as a tongue-in-cheek spoof on
ourselves. We have now become like the little old ladies at the home, going for
the jugular. Nobody who is seriously restoring a car, of any make, is doing
anything other than what Reid is saying. I'll put my Healey up against any
Healey in the world, today. My car is as it was designed, not executed. I sure
as hell won't drive mine to Meadowbrook this summer. I'll trailer it like 99%
of the cars that will be shown there. Anyone driving a serious concours car on
the street, in my estimation, is foolish. I'll drive my Ferrari on the street,
it can be repaired or replaced should something unfortunate happen. But not my
Healey. Repair it and it looses four years worth of painstaking restoration.
Replace it? I can't. But that's my choice. I don't need it as a driver and if I
did, it wouldn't have been a concours car. It's all in choices.
So now it's time to sit back, enjoy one of those quality beers and talk about
the 100mm that you once saw an old lady driving in Pasadena. Lighten up!!!!
It's a new year.
Bob Denton
Reid Trummel wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I've been receiving the Healeys list in digest form these past couple of
> weeks (which means I receive it delayed at least several hours) because I've
> been traveling and will be traveling for the next couple of weeks also, so
> please forgive if the below points have already been made in this
> discussion. However, I just wanted to add a little info about concours in
> the continuing struggle to explode the myths that surround the subject.
>
> First, we of the Concours Committee do not require or encourage anyone to
> restore their cars with original faults (as the Corvette people do, complete
> with mandatory, factory-original overspray in certain places). Instead, our
> philosophy is that cars should be restored to the way that the designers
> *intended* them to be produced. For example, no designer intends for his
> car to have poor door gaps, but through faults of materials, processes
> and/or workmanship, such gaps can be uneven. It would be silly to try to
> reproduce these imperfections. Heck, I've seen original Healeys with
> obvious runs in the paint, but we would never suggest that anyone restoring
> a car should put runs in their paint because "that's the way they came from
> the factory." So please, let's get over this idea that faults or mistakes
> or other unfortunate, unintended original features of the cars must be
> duplicated to avoid a deduction in concours. Simply t'aint so.
>
> Second, the vast majority of "concours cars" are driven and never trailed.
> I know of only a very, very few "concours cars" that are ever trailed. So
> please, let's get over this idea that a "concours car" is some museum piece
> that never sees the light of day and never turns a wheel under its own
> power. Simply t'aint so.
>
> Third, that brings up another point I like to make, and that is that a
> "concours car" (and there's no exact definition of what that means, other
> than perhaps any car ever submitted for concours judging) does not have to
> be, and never is, a "perfect car." We judge on a 1000-point basis, and each
> of those 1000 points can be split into halves. To achieve the highest
> rating -- "Gold" -- a car must achieve 950 or more points. That means that
> it can be penalized 50 points and *still achieve the highest rating.* And,
> since each of those 50 points can be split in half, that means that a car
> could have up to 100 half-point deductions *and still achieve the highest
> rating.* 100 faults is a lot of faults. And remember, to achieve 850
> points -- the minimum total needed to achieve the Bronze level -- a car
> could have 300 faults and still be "concours certified." So please, let's
> get over this idea that concours cars are perfect or even near-perfect.
> Simply t'aint so.
>
> Fourth, it is a continuing source of curiosity (and occasionally mild
> exasperation) to observe the persistent myths, misunderstandings, and
> misperceptions surrounding the subject of "concours." Frankly sometimes it
> seems like the less someone knows about, the more they dislike and disparage
> it! No, it's not for everyone, but no one is forced to participate. We
> judges don't go around searching out cars to judge, against the owner's
> desires, just so that we can present him/her with a list of "faults." We
> make every effort to make the experience positive by providing (1)
> recognition and (2) information on how to improve the originality of the
> cars, FOR THOSE WHO WANT IT. So please, let's get over this idea that
> concours judges are on a mission to attack anyone's self-esteem or criticize
> their car. Simply t'aint so.
>
> Heck, I'm a concours judge myself and although one of my four Austin-Healeys
> is a "concours car," my latest acquisition is a Bugeye with a 1275 cc
> engine, a Datsun 5-speed gearbox, front disc brakes and some other
> non-original mods. And you know what? It's an absolute hoot to drive and I
> love it! No, it wouldn't do too well in concours, but that is utterly and
> completely irrelevant and I don't feel threatened or belittled or excluded
> in any way just because there are some concours-Gold Bugeyes out there that
> are much more original.
>
> I guess you could say that concours is a little like the space program
> (although in one important way its even better since your taxes are not
> used to subsidize concours if you dont participate, its completely
> free!). Anyway its like the space program in this regard: Not everyone
> goes into space, and no one is required to. However, almost everyone reaps
> some spin-off benefits from it in one form or another, so whether you
> directly participate or not, you should be happy that it's there.
>
> Cheers,
> Reid Trummel
> Tampa, Florida
> 2 x BN2
> 2 x AN5
> http://www.healey.org
> http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Send a cool gift with your E-Card
> http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 05:14:20 -0500
Subject: Rear Main seal
Just for what it's worth, I bought one of the "new" rear main oil seals from
the Nocks. My mechanic was very impressed at the quality and design of it.
Can't wait to get it in to see if the leak stops.
Tom----who is now into a major mechanical restoration of my BJ8.
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 04:04:47 -0600
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
Even if I took my Non concours 100 somewhere it would be in a Trailer....
no kidding Bob.. time to lighten up....
I am not one of these folks that thinks you have to Drive this car all over
the world to enjoy it... though I enjoy driving my cars.... and I gotta tell
you when I asked John Hunt what he was going to do with this Tri-carb if it
rained ... and he said... well Keith I am going to Drive it... Personally I
was very impressed....
This whole deal was about letting Will Handzel Drive a Healey to the last
Meet at Maxton from Charlotte... or about 4 hrs round trip.... and to be
honest we were going to sneak the car onto the course at Maxton to set a
record in a PURE Healey... it's been a Long time since that was done.... The
car's really aren't legal to race in our organization without the rollcage
or Hardtop. But I talked my freinds into letting him do a pass under
125mph... ( PLUS or minus ) Then John Hurt is Back...and we didn't get to
put it all together.... hmmm another time....
Enjoy the day folks....
Keith
----- Original Message -----
From: "Arjay" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <AHCUSA@excite.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 2:18 AM
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
>
> Wow! When this thread began I thought it began as a tongue-in-cheek spoof
on
> ourselves. We have now become like the little old ladies at the home,
going for
> the jugular. Nobody who is seriously restoring a car, of any make, is
doing
> anything other than what Reid is saying. I'll put my Healey up against any
> Healey in the world, today. My car is as it was designed, not executed. I
sure
> as hell won't drive mine to Meadowbrook this summer. I'll trailer it like
99%
> of the cars that will be shown there. Anyone driving a serious concours
car on
> the street, in my estimation, is foolish. I'll drive my Ferrari on the
street,
> it can be repaired or replaced should something unfortunate happen. But
not my
> Healey. Repair it and it looses four years worth of painstaking
restoration.
> Replace it? I can't. But that's my choice. I don't need it as a driver and
if I
> did, it wouldn't have been a concours car. It's all in choices.
>
> So now it's time to sit back, enjoy one of those quality beers and talk
about
> the 100mm that you once saw an old lady driving in Pasadena. Lighten
up!!!!
> It's a new year.
>
> Bob Denton
>
> Reid Trummel wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I've been receiving the Healeys list in digest form these past couple of
> > weeks (which means I receive it delayed at least several hours) because
I've
> > been traveling and will be traveling for the next couple of weeks also,
so
> > please forgive if the below points have already been made in this
> > discussion. However, I just wanted to add a little info about concours
in
> > the continuing struggle to explode the myths that surround the subject.
> >
> > First, we of the Concours Committee do not require or encourage anyone
to
> > restore their cars with original faults (as the Corvette people do,
complete
> > with mandatory, factory-original overspray in certain places). Instead,
our
> > philosophy is that cars should be restored to the way that the designers
> > *intended* them to be produced. For example, no designer intends for
his
> > car to have poor door gaps, but through faults of materials, processes
> > and/or workmanship, such gaps can be uneven. It would be silly to try
to
> > reproduce these imperfections. Heck, I've seen original Healeys with
> > obvious runs in the paint, but we would never suggest that anyone
restoring
> > a car should put runs in their paint because "that's the way they came
from
> > the factory." So please, let's get over this idea that faults or
mistakes
> > or other unfortunate, unintended original features of the cars must be
> > duplicated to avoid a deduction in concours. Simply t'aint so.
> >
> > Second, the vast majority of "concours cars" are driven and never
trailed.
> > I know of only a very, very few "concours cars" that are ever trailed.
So
> > please, let's get over this idea that a "concours car" is some museum
piece
> > that never sees the light of day and never turns a wheel under its own
> > power. Simply t'aint so.
> >
> > Third, that brings up another point I like to make, and that is that a
> > "concours car" (and there's no exact definition of what that means,
other
> > than perhaps any car ever submitted for concours judging) does not have
to
> > be, and never is, a "perfect car." We judge on a 1000-point basis, and
each
> > of those 1000 points can be split into halves. To achieve the highest
> > rating -- "Gold" -- a car must achieve 950 or more points. That means
that
> > it can be penalized 50 points and *still achieve the highest rating.*
And,
> > since each of those 50 points can be split in half, that means that a
car
> > could have up to 100 half-point deductions *and still achieve the
highest
> > rating.* 100 faults is a lot of faults. And remember, to achieve 850
> > points -- the minimum total needed to achieve the Bronze level -- a car
> > could have 300 faults and still be "concours certified." So please,
let's
> > get over this idea that concours cars are perfect or even near-perfect.
> > Simply t'aint so.
> >
> > Fourth, it is a continuing source of curiosity (and occasionally mild
> > exasperation) to observe the persistent myths, misunderstandings, and
> > misperceptions surrounding the subject of "concours." Frankly sometimes
it
> > seems like the less someone knows about, the more they dislike and
disparage
> > it! No, it's not for everyone, but no one is forced to participate. We
> > judges don't go around searching out cars to judge, against the owner's
> > desires, just so that we can present him/her with a list of "faults."
We
> > make every effort to make the experience positive by providing (1)
> > recognition and (2) information on how to improve the originality of the
> > cars, FOR THOSE WHO WANT IT. So please, let's get over this idea that
> > concours judges are on a mission to attack anyone's self-esteem or
criticize
> > their car. Simply t'aint so.
> >
> > Heck, I'm a concours judge myself and although one of my four
Austin-Healeys
> > is a "concours car," my latest acquisition is a Bugeye with a 1275 cc
> > engine, a Datsun 5-speed gearbox, front disc brakes and some other
> > non-original mods. And you know what? It's an absolute hoot to drive
and I
> > love it! No, it wouldn't do too well in concours, but that is utterly
and
> > completely irrelevant and I don't feel threatened or belittled or
excluded
> > in any way just because there are some concours-Gold Bugeyes out there
that
> > are much more original.
> >
> > I guess you could say that concours is a little like the space program
> > (although in one important way its even better since your taxes are not
> > used to subsidize concours if you dont participate, its completely
> > free!). Anyway its like the space program in this regard: Not everyone
> > goes into space, and no one is required to. However, almost everyone
reaps
> > some spin-off benefits from it in one form or another, so whether you
> > directly participate or not, you should be happy that it's there.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Reid Trummel
> > Tampa, Florida
> > 2 x BN2
> > 2 x AN5
> > http://www.healey.org
> > http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
> >
> > _______________________________________________________
> > Send a cool gift with your E-Card
> > http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From "AH102 at home.com" <ah102@home.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 08:54:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Removing glass from gauges
Could the O-ring seal between the dash and the gages be there to keep the
water out of the gage when driving in the rain with the top down? Works for
me!
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Fawcett <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
To: Merchant, Adnan <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>; 'ynotink' <ynotink@qwest.net>
Cc: 'Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 12:58 AM
Subject: Re: Removing glass from gauges
>
> I don't see any reasonable purpose for a seal between
> the dash and the gauges. > Mark Fawcett
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 07:01:56 -0800
Subject: Re: Removing glass from gauges
The gaskets sold by Moss have a thin round profile, so I assume these
go between the glass and bezel. Thanks for the info on the other seal.
Now I have find these.
----- Original Message -----
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: fawcett1@mediaone.net
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 11:17 PM
Subject: Re: Removing glass from gauges
Mark
Every gauge, both large and small, originally had a rubber ring
(gasket)
between the dash panel and the back of the bezel. The cross section
is
square.
Aloha
Perry
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 12:26:06 -0600
Subject: To be (concours) or not to be (concours) that is the question.
I have written a few words in the past regarding concours. I think it is
fine for those who want to go that route. I, personally, think that if you
have enough time and money (mostly money) you can do with it what you
please.
To buy an Austin Healey, take it to a restorer and pay him $30,000 or more
to return it to concours condition, then go win a trophy at a "concours"
show or any other car show, to me is like the Yankees and Steinbrenner
buying all the best players to win the World Series.
I know this will get me some flames, but I also know that I, and only I,
control my delete key. So rave on, all you Yankee fans!
I really admire hard working people who spend hundreds of hours reworking
their own cars, (and lots of bucks too), but I find very little admiration
for the guys who just spend the bucks so that they can win trophies. I've
probably spent as many hours on my old Red Devil as a lot of people, however
I would gladly spend more (and more money) to keep it running so I can drive
these Western Kentucky backroads in the spring. Don't give a damn if I ever
win a trophy, though.
Don
BN7 2 seat tri-carb
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 11:23:19 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
To this gentleman who writes:
"I have now spent four years of writing checks to a man whose
business is hell-bent on making my Austin Healey a "proper" cheap
sports car so that I can take it to a concours show and show it as
authentic. I have spent tens of thousands of dollars to make it like
the $4,000 car it was. And I'm damned proud of it. It's the most
beautiful car that I have owned. Drive it? Why? I have other cars
that I drive."
I would like to say 2 things:
a) Since you are neither working on your car nor driving it around, I
cannot see what there is to be proud of. Your check-writing skill
maybe? Or the sheer thinckness of your wallet? Proud to know the
(surely excellent) caftsman who did the work?
b) I know at least one thing that is far from original on this car:
It's owner state of mind. There is no doubt the D. Healey designed
sportscars to do sport with cars.
Francois
Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 14:08:34 -0500
Subject: Re: One more on keys
> For kicks I looked at my original keys, and just wanted to add one small
> fact about them. I have a locking gas cap on my BJ8. Its key, like my
> others, is a Wilmot. Now the same key that fits my glovebox and trunk will
> also unlock my gas cap, and the "regular" glovebox/trunk key will also
open
> the gas cap, but they have two different profiles and different stamped
> numbers. I'm guessing maybe when the locks were new one of the keys
> wouldn't operate one of the locks! Anyway, the gas cap itself is also
> marked Wilmot. Did the factory supply locking gas caps?
Could be that one of more of the tumblers is removed from of the gascap
lock.
Keith Pennell
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 13:38:19 -0600
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
You are absolutely WRONG.... and the assumption that everyone can or wants
to enjoy the Mechanical side of this hobby is udder non-sense... The Mans
check book is exactly that.... it's his... he gets to pick what he finds
important in his life.... seems to me by what he said... was that he was
going to bring that car for all to enjoy.... wow... works for me... I don't
care how it got there.... because he has the ability to have it
done...doesn't lessen the car or his desire to own one of that quality...
I know that was really offensive... and I really didn't mean for it to
be.... remember this is a place we all come to have fun.... not bash each
other.... that having been said.... you have to respect each persons desire
to follow this hobby in any manner they see fit.... anything less then that
is offensive....
I may not want to own or build a concours car... but I respect that part of
the hobby and in everything I have ever said about it I have made that point
abundantly clear....
I do have the mechanical ability.... but if I chose to have it done I sure
wouldn't want someone looking down thier nose at me because I did......
This man has LOTS to be Proud of.... and I Personally thank him for
restoring one to that level....
Keith Turk
----- Original Message -----
From: "francois wildi" <fwildi@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 1:23 PM
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
>
> To this gentleman who writes:
>
> "I have now spent four years of writing checks to a man whose
> business is hell-bent on making my Austin Healey a "proper" cheap
> sports car so that I can take it to a concours show and show it as
> authentic. I have spent tens of thousands of dollars to make it like
> the $4,000 car it was. And I'm damned proud of it. It's the most
> beautiful car that I have owned. Drive it? Why? I have other cars
> that I drive."
>
> I would like to say 2 things:
>
> a) Since you are neither working on your car nor driving it around, I
> cannot see what there is to be proud of. Your check-writing skill
> maybe? Or the sheer thinckness of your wallet? Proud to know the
> (surely excellent) caftsman who did the work?
>
> b) I know at least one thing that is far from original on this car:
> It's owner state of mind. There is no doubt the D. Healey designed
> sportscars to do sport with cars.
>
> Francois
> Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 14:26:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Removing glass from gauges
Mark,
On my very orig BJ8 there are O rings between each of the gauges and the
face of the dash. However, they are of a square cross section, not
circular!
I suspect that they were installed to dampen vibrations, thus protecting the
gauges some.
Keith Pennell
> Adnan,
> The Service Parts List, page O.2 show only the rubber rings that goes
> between the glass and the bezel. There does not appear to be an
> o-ring between the dash and the gauges. I think the o-rings offered
> for sale in the catalogs are the correct replacement seal for the
> glass to bezel. I don't see any reasonable purpose for a seal between
> the dash and the gauges. The sales catalog pictures aren't always
> accurate.
> Mark Fawcett
From "Coop" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 12:23:55 -0800
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard and rude responses
What a shame that some folks on this group can't just agree to disagree -
without resorting to pedantic bullying or elitist rhetoric.
The truth is, some of us are more mechanically inclined than others. That
doesn't mean we are any less devoted to our Healeys or to the marque. Not
everyone has the time or ability to tear down a car to it's frame and spend
three years re-building it. I've driven classic British sportscars of one
kind or another for more than 20 years. Yet, my mechanical knowledge and
abilities are extremely limited. I'm fortunate enough to have the means to
pay a professional when the need arises. I'm not ashamed of that at all.
Look at it another way: I play the acoustic guitar. A few years ago, I
decided to learn to build them - from scratch. I now build guitars for other
musicians and I'm pretty good at it. These musicians are supremely talented
and can outplay me with their eyes closed. But they play them, they don't
build the darned things. And, they are perfectly happy trusting their
luthiers to fix them and build them when the need arises. Some musicians are
collectors who rarely play their vintage instruments. Are they any less
valid or devoted to their craft because they want to preserve a bit of
musical history and enjoy other's reactions to them? Its the same issue
with restoring these old British beasts to concourse levels. Ever been to
Pebble Beach? Do you think those white straw hatted fellas who spend
hundreds of thousands of dollars restoring 60 year old custom whatevers get
their fingernails dirty? Their enjoyment is in getting it done right and
preserving the car for generations to enjoy as well. Enough said.
Viva la cheque book!
Coop aka Randy Harris ('66 BJ8)
>Francois says
> I would like to say 2 things:
>
> a) Since you are neither working on your car nor driving it around, I
> cannot see what there is to be proud of. Your check-writing skill
> maybe? Or the sheer thinckness of your wallet? Proud to know the
> (surely excellent) caftsman who did the work?
>
> b) I know at least one thing that is far from original on this car:
> It's owner state of mind. There is no doubt the D. Healey designed
> sportscars to do sport with cars.
>
> Francois
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 15:13:40 -0600
Subject: Spark Plugs
Hello Listers!! I am on the verge of starting my recently totally rebuilt
29E engine. Moreover, it languished for about 21 years before the rebuild
so I've forgotten a thing or two. I'm having lots of trouble finding
Champion N3 or N5 plugs and I suspect those designations have been replaced
by something new. I'm looking for recommendations of which spark plugs to
use for this fresh start-up. I'm using a Pertronix ignition and a Lucas 40k
volt coil. Can anyone help me?? Thanks in advance.
Jack Brashear
Little Rock, Arkansas
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
From RobertH148 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 17:37:24 EST
Subject: Re: To be (concours) or not to be (concours) that is the
I had my 1960 BT7 restored 2 years ago to be a driver. It was a very original
car that I had owned for 10 years. It seems to have never been touched for
other than routine maintenance and some body repairs from an accident. It did
have some rust and needed a good overhaul. All the numbers matched.
I wanted a good driver and I had the engine modified with BJ8 carbs, dual
point ignition, a jet-hot coated exhaust manifold and a few other
improvements for durability and performance. Otherwise, I kept the car as
original as possible, including the 48 spoke wheels and the original
knock-offs.
The car came out so well that I decided to enter it in concours just to see
what it would do. I had only a few more items done to get it as close to
concours specs as possible at very little additional expense. One of the
reasons was to establish a value for any possible insurance claims if
something should happen to the car.
The car took a high silver award and just missed gold by only 10 pts. This
was better than I had expected and I was quite pleased with the award,
considering the things that I knew were wrong going in. But, I was still
somewhat disappointed to have missed gold by such a small margin.
The car has been driven over 3000 miles since and it runs great. I fully
enjoy it and have no fear about taking long trips.
The point that I am trying to make is: If you are restoring a car to a high
level, it won't take much more time or money to do the little additional
things that could make it concours level. I didn't go to any extremes to get
it. If you do a good job with the restoration, it won't hurt to submit it for
concours judging. You may be pleasantly surprised.
Bob Humphreys
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 09:04:08 +1000
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
I do not have a bottomless pit of money to throw at my car, as a matter of
fact I really can't afford to own a Healey, but it was a boyhood dream to
eventually own one and I have made sacrifices to achieve that dream. My BN4
is far from concours quality but I have tried to maintain originality where
possible. I get my pleasure from driving it and am still proud of the
admiring looks it gets on the road.
Although I am not into concours I admire those who do, as it gives me the
opportunity to see just how good my car could look if I win the lottery. I
don't understand those who don't drive their cars as, after 7 years of
ownership, it still gives me the biggest buzz getting it out for a run. I
too own another driver but, like today, when the sun is shining I prefer to
get the Healey out for the shopping run, but that is their choice and I
would never attack them as they obviously have different reasons for
ownership.
To each their own, but we are all, in our own way, keeping these beautiful
machines "on the road".
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
----- Original Message -----
From: "francois wildi" <fwildi@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, 6 January 2001 5:23
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
>
> To this gentleman who writes:
>
> "I have now spent four years of writing checks to a man whose
> business is hell-bent on making my Austin Healey a "proper" cheap
> sports car so that I can take it to a concours show and show it as
> authentic. I have spent tens of thousands of dollars to make it like
> the $4,000 car it was. And I'm damned proud of it. It's the most
> beautiful car that I have owned. Drive it? Why? I have other cars
> that I drive."
>
> I would like to say 2 things:
>
> a) Since you are neither working on your car nor driving it around, I
> cannot see what there is to be proud of. Your check-writing skill
> maybe? Or the sheer thinckness of your wallet? Proud to know the
> (surely excellent) caftsman who did the work?
>
> b) I know at least one thing that is far from original on this car:
> It's owner state of mind. There is no doubt the D. Healey designed
> sportscars to do sport with cars.
>
> Francois
> Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 17:33:33 -0600
Subject: Re: Spark Plugs
I'm having lots of trouble finding
>Champion N3 or N5 plugs and I suspect those designations have been replaced
>by something new.
Jack:
the replacement for N5C is RN12Y. Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 19:09:50 -0500
Subject: Locking petrol caps (was: One more on keys)
Bill Katz queried:
> Did the factory supply locking gas caps?
Yes, they did, Bill. I have a copy of seven BMIHT certificates in the BJ8
registry that show a locking petrol cap as original optional equipment.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 19:58:54 EST
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard, Reid's Reply
Reid,
Very good summation of the Concours issue and list thread. For some reason,
a lot of enthusiasts seem to be looking for something to attack or complain
about, and concours seems to be an easy "ox to gore." And many of them don't
really understand the subject. For some reason the subject seems to
threatens them.
Thanks for setting the record straight.
John
From "Thomas Mulligan" <tpmul at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 20:34:34 -0500
Subject: Heater Hose
Thanks to all who responded.
Tom
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 19:53:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
Hi Reid,
So what you're saying is: We can interpret the 'intent of the factory.'
You don't live in Florida by any chance, do you? ;-)
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <AHCUSA@excite.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 8:45 PM
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
>
> Hi all,
>
> I've been receiving the Healeys list in digest form these past couple of
> weeks (which means I receive it delayed at least several hours) because
I've
> been traveling and will be traveling for the next couple of weeks also, so
> please forgive if the below points have already been made in this
> discussion. However, I just wanted to add a little info about concours in
> the continuing struggle to explode the myths that surround the subject.
>
> First, we of the Concours Committee do not require or encourage anyone to
> restore their cars with original faults (as the Corvette people do,
complete
> with mandatory, factory-original overspray in certain places). Instead,
our
> philosophy is that cars should be restored to the way that the designers
> *intended* them to be produced. For example, no designer intends for his
> car to have poor door gaps, but through faults of materials, processes
> and/or workmanship, such gaps can be uneven. It would be silly to try to
> reproduce these imperfections. Heck, I've seen original Healeys with
> obvious runs in the paint, but we would never suggest that anyone
restoring
> a car should put runs in their paint because "that's the way they came
from
> the factory." So please, let's get over this idea that faults or mistakes
> or other unfortunate, unintended original features of the cars must be
> duplicated to avoid a deduction in concours. Simply t'aint so.
>
> Second, the vast majority of "concours cars" are driven and never trailed.
> I know of only a very, very few "concours cars" that are ever trailed. So
> please, let's get over this idea that a "concours car" is some museum
piece
> that never sees the light of day and never turns a wheel under its own
> power. Simply t'aint so.
>
> Third, that brings up another point I like to make, and that is that a
> "concours car" (and there's no exact definition of what that means, other
> than perhaps any car ever submitted for concours judging) does not have to
> be, and never is, a "perfect car." We judge on a 1000-point basis, and
each
> of those 1000 points can be split into halves. To achieve the highest
> rating -- "Gold" -- a car must achieve 950 or more points. That means
that
> it can be penalized 50 points and *still achieve the highest rating.*
And,
> since each of those 50 points can be split in half, that means that a car
> could have up to 100 half-point deductions *and still achieve the highest
> rating.* 100 faults is a lot of faults. And remember, to achieve 850
> points -- the minimum total needed to achieve the Bronze level -- a car
> could have 300 faults and still be "concours certified." So please, let's
> get over this idea that concours cars are perfect or even near-perfect.
> Simply t'aint so.
>
> Fourth, it is a continuing source of curiosity (and occasionally mild
> exasperation) to observe the persistent myths, misunderstandings, and
> misperceptions surrounding the subject of "concours." Frankly sometimes
it
> seems like the less someone knows about, the more they dislike and
disparage
> it! No, it's not for everyone, but no one is forced to participate. We
> judges don't go around searching out cars to judge, against the owner's
> desires, just so that we can present him/her with a list of "faults." We
> make every effort to make the experience positive by providing (1)
> recognition and (2) information on how to improve the originality of the
> cars, FOR THOSE WHO WANT IT. So please, let's get over this idea that
> concours judges are on a mission to attack anyone's self-esteem or
criticize
> their car. Simply t'aint so.
>
> Heck, I'm a concours judge myself and although one of my four
Austin-Healeys
> is a "concours car," my latest acquisition is a Bugeye with a 1275 cc
> engine, a Datsun 5-speed gearbox, front disc brakes and some other
> non-original mods. And you know what? It's an absolute hoot to drive and
I
> love it! No, it wouldn't do too well in concours, but that is utterly and
> completely irrelevant and I don't feel threatened or belittled or excluded
> in any way just because there are some concours-Gold Bugeyes out there
that
> are much more original.
>
> I guess you could say that concours is a little like the space program
> (although in one important way its even better since your taxes are not
> used to subsidize concours if you dont participate, its completely
> free!). Anyway its like the space program in this regard: Not everyone
> goes into space, and no one is required to. However, almost everyone
reaps
> some spin-off benefits from it in one form or another, so whether you
> directly participate or not, you should be happy that it's there.
>
> Cheers,
> Reid Trummel
> Tampa, Florida
> 2 x BN2
> 2 x AN5
> http://www.healey.org
> http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Send a cool gift with your E-Card
> http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 21:46:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Removing glass from gauges
Hmmm! Well I know they are still making and rebuilding the gauges so they must
be available somewhere.
Bill Lawrence
"Merchant, Adnan" wrote:
> Hi,
>
> When I rebuilt my gauges, the seal between the glass and bezel was not
> available (I had called both Nisonger and Mo-Ma). The o-rings you mention
> - sure those aren't the ones that go between the gauge and dash? Those
> have been available for a long time.
>
> Regards,
> Adnan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ynotink [mailto:ynotink@qwest.net]
> Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 5:06 PM
> To: Merchant, Adnan
> Cc: 'Ross Leonard'; 'Healey List'
> Subject: Re: Removing glass from gauges
>
> Actually the o-rings and the glass for that matter are available and
> inexpensive. Try MOMA in Albuquerque.
>
> Bill Lawrence
From JH67HEALEY at aol.com
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 01:24:08 EST
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
Hello Josef,
My apologizes to you and Andrea and the Wards, I know your having a good
time with our mutual friends in Warick this weekend. John May and I still are
planning to come over, but now I see we might have to take a side trip to
Germany to see you and to collect the newest Healey model, this will be the
most expensive model I own.
In defense of my own Concours Healeys, this stems from buying a new BRG
1967 3000 MK-III a few years back (huh). My decision to go the way of
Concours with my current BJ-8 was not an investment but a passion for the
most beautiful Sports Car I had ever laid my eyes on in the 50's as a
youngster. I sworn then I would own one of those Healeys when I got older.
Well I did and then in mid-life and a bit on the crazy side I set out to
fulfill a DREAM, which as many know was much more than I had ever thought
possible. This Healey and the BN-7 I have now, Hans Nohrs, will never be
sold, they are not investments, just a 50yr olds desire to relive his youth
while he still can, with his other demented friends. These are a part of my
life just like the many of you, my friends, who read this list. These Healeys
have brought me many dear friends all over the world, amazing what a car can
do for someone, something to be cherish. We should all say a silent Thank You
to
Donald M. Healey, his Family and all those who helped him fulfill his Dream
that we all enjoy today. I know Josef that your observation and opinions
where not meant to critisize anyone in particular, and I took no offense in
it, I enjoyed it, just a nice way to ask why and to see the differences from
all around the world.
Since the BJ-8 was finished in 1995 I have driven it over 42,000 miles,
trailered it, flown it over the Atlantic to England to celebrate the 100th
Anniversary of the birth of the Man that brought these fine Sports Cars to
us, coming up on thier own 50th Anniversary, all these miles driven in rain
and snow,through oil,dirt and mud. If throught the rain of England with the
bias ply tyres on it. Then the true labor of love passion for this car takes
place, the cleaning to prepare for the next drive to some point again
throught the rain with the top down and laughing all the way to get it dirty
again. It's not my intention to take it to Meets just to get a Trophy, but to
see friends who share this same hobby as I, put it next to another Healey
that might not be Concours, but it's a Healey, and that's what all of us
enjoy, the commarardire, the friends, the silly games and the beer. So lets
all sit down tomorrow and tip a pint for each of our Healey Friends.
To Keith Turk and Kirk Kvam, Thank You both. I look forward to putting a
few down with you guys. And Keith, we'll make that speed run in the BN-7 this
year.
Kind Regards to the List, and My Friends
John S. Hunt
1967 BJ-8 3000 MK-III
1962 BN-7 3000 MK-II Tri-Carb 2-seater
1958 Model-55 Healey Sports Boat
1953 Nash Healey LeMans Coupe
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 23:18:18 -0800
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
I think he lives in Tamper, FL. (My apologies to Reid and all Democrats
out there. I just couldn't resist that). Len
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Brauen" <pbrauen@telepak.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <AHCUSA@excite.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 5:53 PM
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
>
> Hi Reid,
> So what you're saying is: We can interpret the 'intent of the
factory.'
> You don't live in Florida by any chance, do you? ;-)
> Peter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Reid Trummel" <AHCUSA@excite.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 8:45 PM
> Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
>
>
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I've been receiving the Healeys list in digest form these past couple of
> > weeks (which means I receive it delayed at least several hours) because
> I've
> > been traveling and will be traveling for the next couple of weeks also,
so
> > please forgive if the below points have already been made in this
> > discussion. However, I just wanted to add a little info about concours
in
> > the continuing struggle to explode the myths that surround the subject.
> >
> > First, we of the Concours Committee do not require or encourage anyone
to
> > restore their cars with original faults (as the Corvette people do,
> complete
> > with mandatory, factory-original overspray in certain places). Instead,
> our
> > philosophy is that cars should be restored to the way that the designers
> > *intended* them to be produced. For example, no designer intends for
his
> > car to have poor door gaps, but through faults of materials, processes
> > and/or workmanship, such gaps can be uneven. It would be silly to try
to
> > reproduce these imperfections. Heck, I've seen original Healeys with
> > obvious runs in the paint, but we would never suggest that anyone
> restoring
> > a car should put runs in their paint because "that's the way they came
> from
> > the factory." So please, let's get over this idea that faults or
mistakes
> > or other unfortunate, unintended original features of the cars must be
> > duplicated to avoid a deduction in concours. Simply t'aint so.
> >
> > Second, the vast majority of "concours cars" are driven and never
trailed.
> > I know of only a very, very few "concours cars" that are ever trailed.
So
> > please, let's get over this idea that a "concours car" is some museum
> piece
> > that never sees the light of day and never turns a wheel under its own
> > power. Simply t'aint so.
> >
> > Third, that brings up another point I like to make, and that is that a
> > "concours car" (and there's no exact definition of what that means,
other
> > than perhaps any car ever submitted for concours judging) does not have
to
> > be, and never is, a "perfect car." We judge on a 1000-point basis, and
> each
> > of those 1000 points can be split into halves. To achieve the highest
> > rating -- "Gold" -- a car must achieve 950 or more points. That means
> that
> > it can be penalized 50 points and *still achieve the highest rating.*
> And,
> > since each of those 50 points can be split in half, that means that a
car
> > could have up to 100 half-point deductions *and still achieve the
highest
> > rating.* 100 faults is a lot of faults. And remember, to achieve 850
> > points -- the minimum total needed to achieve the Bronze level -- a car
> > could have 300 faults and still be "concours certified." So please,
let's
> > get over this idea that concours cars are perfect or even near-perfect.
> > Simply t'aint so.
> >
> > Fourth, it is a continuing source of curiosity (and occasionally mild
> > exasperation) to observe the persistent myths, misunderstandings, and
> > misperceptions surrounding the subject of "concours." Frankly sometimes
> it
> > seems like the less someone knows about, the more they dislike and
> disparage
> > it! No, it's not for everyone, but no one is forced to participate. We
> > judges don't go around searching out cars to judge, against the owner's
> > desires, just so that we can present him/her with a list of "faults."
We
> > make every effort to make the experience positive by providing (1)
> > recognition and (2) information on how to improve the originality of the
> > cars, FOR THOSE WHO WANT IT. So please, let's get over this idea that
> > concours judges are on a mission to attack anyone's self-esteem or
> criticize
> > their car. Simply t'aint so.
> >
> > Heck, I'm a concours judge myself and although one of my four
> Austin-Healeys
> > is a "concours car," my latest acquisition is a Bugeye with a 1275 cc
> > engine, a Datsun 5-speed gearbox, front disc brakes and some other
> > non-original mods. And you know what? It's an absolute hoot to drive
and
> I
> > love it! No, it wouldn't do too well in concours, but that is utterly
and
> > completely irrelevant and I don't feel threatened or belittled or
excluded
> > in any way just because there are some concours-Gold Bugeyes out there
> that
> > are much more original.
> >
> > I guess you could say that concours is a little like the space program
> > (although in one important way its even better since your taxes are not
> > used to subsidize concours if you dont participate, its completely
> > free!). Anyway its like the space program in this regard: Not everyone
> > goes into space, and no one is required to. However, almost everyone
> reaps
> > some spin-off benefits from it in one form or another, so whether you
> > directly participate or not, you should be happy that it's there.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Reid Trummel
> > Tampa, Florida
> > 2 x BN2
> > 2 x AN5
> > http://www.healey.org
> > http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________________
> > Send a cool gift with your E-Card
> > http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 23:35:52 -0800
Subject: Re: Holden[s]
John:
Well said. Well done
Ron
John Trifari wrote:
> Mr. Young: I hope that this does not start a pointless thread. I have
> no desire
> to participate in one that deals with such a trivial issue as whether or
> not Holden should charge for its catalog. I wish only to repeat that I
> think it rather idiotic of a company (Holden) to charge for the
> privilege of doing business with it--ie, to charge for a catalog of the
> very items it wants to sell, especially extra for "...shipping where
> applicable." It would seem to me that the smart thing to do would be to
> distribute the catalog widely and for free, thereby attracting more
> interest in the company's products--even if it meant cutting back on the
> production quality of the publication. Anyway, you have your opinion on
> this issue ("i [sic] believe [,] Sir[,] you are wrong you prick [,]
> bastard!"), and I have mine. Moreover, I am entitled to express it
> without pointless, insulting replies from you or anyone else. Further,
> I am not aware that at any time I was "...disconsiderate [sic] to [sic]
> my [i.e. your] opinions in the past and use of bandwidth [sic]." If so,
> my apologies to you for any "disconsiderate" opinions, and my apologies
> to the List for your convoluted syntax. John Trifari 1955 BN1 1965
> BJ8
>
> Howard Young wrote:
>
> > Greetings All, HNY, etc...........yes but they have MANY items not
> available
> > else where world wide,( from my Morris Minor days)
> ....Period.......and since
> > that is your opinion and you were disconsiderate to my opinions in the
> past and
> > use of bandwidth.........i believe Sir you are wrong you prick
> bastard!
> >
> > Sincerely,
> >
> > HoYo
> >
> > John Trifari wrote:
> >
> > > FYI--they charge over $6 for a catalog. ("Total cost: # 4.00 [ex
> VAT and
> > > shipping where applicable]"). It's hard to do business with a
> company like
> > > that. John Trifari 1955 BN1/1965 BJ8
> > >
> > > Brad Weldon wrote:
> > >
> > > > Looks like the url should be www.holden.co.uk (not holdens)
> > > >
> > > > Brad
> > > > '55 Hundred
> > > > BN1 #226796
> > > >
> > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > > > > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
> Editorgary@aol.com
> > > > > Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 8:45 AM
> > > > > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > > > > Subject: Holdens
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > I referred someone yesterday to Holdens in the UK to order
> Smiths
> > > > > gauges.
> > > > > According to their catalog, they do stock them, as well as
> nearly every
> > > > > imaginable piece of gear that connects to the car with a wire.
> > > > >
> > > > > Contact is www.holdens.co.uk
> > > > > email holden@holden.co.uk
> > > > >
> > > > > They are not currently an advertiser in British Car Magazine.
> > > > >
> > > > > Cheers
> > > > > Gary Anderson
> > > > > Editor, British Car
From Anders Roil <aroil at sensewave.com>
Date: Sat, 06 Jan 2001 08:48:53 +0100
Subject: Out in the snow on 1st of January
The 1st of January the Norwegian "Alltheyeararound"-club for open cars had it's
annual meeting. As a "Vorespiel" to this event, The Norwegian Sportscar club
(www.sportsvogn.no) had a barbecue -party in my garden.
Weather-conditions:?
- Lots of snow
- Minus 10 degrees Celsius (= 14 degrees Fahrenheit
Take a look at the pictures at,
http://www.sportsvogn.no/artikler/helaarsklubben2001.htm. The text is in
Norwegian, but pictures in global. (The read Healey is mine)
I wish you all a very nice Healey year in 2001
Best Regards
Anders Roil
http://home.sol.no/~anroil/
From "Anders Lotsengård" <healeyeast at hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 06 Jan 2001 12:11:13 +0100
Subject: British Registration book
In the old british registrations books (as per vehicle act 1949) there is a
official stamp with date to the left, just below the name of the different
owners.
Questions is, is that stamp showing the date the person just to the right
above the stamp bought or sold the car?
Anders Lotsengerd
>S-572 40 Oskarshamn Sweden -59 BT7 (historic racer) -64 BJ8 (road use,
>restored and OK!) -59 AN5 (a pile of scrap, later to become a car again!)
_________________________________________________________________________
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 07:58:42 -0600
Subject: Friendship/was concours
John... You have touched on the Most important aspect of the Healey clubs...
Friendship....A gathering of folks intersested in the Healey and all that it
is.... Each and every aspect of the Healey has Merit .... Popular Class Cars
as well as Concours.... Each of us has our interests.... But when we gather
or share experiences we all do it from a central focus.... that of the
Healey Automobile and ultimately from the Man who started all of
this....Donald M Healey... Here was a Man that LIVED... now we do the
same through his cars and our love of them ...
I wish I could share my feeling's while sitting on the Starting line at
Bonneville with you... DMH brought me there... it was the Healey and my
Friends in the Atlanta club that got all this mess started.... but it's MY
Goal... Personally I chose to focus on that 1953-1956 Period in Donalds
life.... I know how proud he was to be a Member of the 200mph Club at
Bonneville and I wish to join him in that Club...
In all that I have done here in the last couple of years... even though I am
driving a Camaro at Present.... everyone know's that It is the HEALEY I am
interesting driving....
I am sitting in my office here at home and like most of you I am surrounded
by Pictures of Healey's and my Friends with thier Healeys... in my case I
have a Few extra trapping's.... Of coure the picture above the Desk is the
Signed Bonneville Salt Flats Healey Hauling the Mail.... in the lower left
corner of that Frame.... I have Tom Long's 3000 sitting beside my 100 ....
The picture was taken looking down from Charlie Moshell's Deck at a Party of
some sort... Tom was Paralized a couple of years ago.... and Tom has become
something of an inspiration to me personally to acheive some of my goals in
life.
I don't care what part of this hobby interests you personally... I just want
folks to feel comfortable bringing a Rat Healey to a club meeting or a major
event.... it's a HEALEY... and I don't want them to think they are not part
of this hobby just because they can't afford to buy a New RB 106
regulator... to replace the one with a cracked cover that functions
perfectly.... That is my single problem with concours....
Wow that was long .... Here is the bottom line.... Make everyone feel
confortable about thier car... make them want to join in and be part of our
hobby... That will enrich our lives!
Keith Turk ( Muroc 200mph club... East Coast Timing association 200mph
club/president.... 2000 Season points championship! 228mph on a 230 at
Bonneville.....and most importantly a Healey Geek from Way Back!!!)
----- Original Message -----
From: <JH67HEALEY@aol.com>
To: <Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 12:24 AM
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
>
> Hello Josef,
>
> My apologizes to you and Andrea and the Wards, I know your having a
good
> time with our mutual friends in Warick this weekend. John May and I still
are
> planning to come over, but now I see we might have to take a side trip to
> Germany to see you and to collect the newest Healey model, this will be
the
> most expensive model I own.
> In defense of my own Concours Healeys, this stems from buying a new
BRG
> 1967 3000 MK-III a few years back (huh). My decision to go the way of
> Concours with my current BJ-8 was not an investment but a passion for the
> most beautiful Sports Car I had ever laid my eyes on in the 50's as a
> youngster. I sworn then I would own one of those Healeys when I got older.
> Well I did and then in mid-life and a bit on the crazy side I set out to
> fulfill a DREAM, which as many know was much more than I had ever thought
> possible. This Healey and the BN-7 I have now, Hans Nohrs, will never be
> sold, they are not investments, just a 50yr olds desire to relive his
youth
> while he still can, with his other demented friends. These are a part of
my
> life just like the many of you, my friends, who read this list. These
Healeys
> have brought me many dear friends all over the world, amazing what a car
can
> do for someone, something to be cherish. We should all say a silent Thank
You
> to
> Donald M. Healey, his Family and all those who helped him fulfill his
Dream
> that we all enjoy today. I know Josef that your observation and opinions
> where not meant to critisize anyone in particular, and I took no offense
in
> it, I enjoyed it, just a nice way to ask why and to see the differences
from
> all around the world.
> Since the BJ-8 was finished in 1995 I have driven it over 42,000
miles,
> trailered it, flown it over the Atlantic to England to celebrate the 100th
> Anniversary of the birth of the Man that brought these fine Sports Cars to
> us, coming up on thier own 50th Anniversary, all these miles driven in
rain
> and snow,through oil,dirt and mud. If throught the rain of England with
the
> bias ply tyres on it. Then the true labor of love passion for this car
takes
> place, the cleaning to prepare for the next drive to some point again
> throught the rain with the top down and laughing all the way to get it
dirty
> again. It's not my intention to take it to Meets just to get a Trophy, but
to
> see friends who share this same hobby as I, put it next to another Healey
> that might not be Concours, but it's a Healey, and that's what all of us
> enjoy, the commarardire, the friends, the silly games and the beer. So
lets
> all sit down tomorrow and tip a pint for each of our Healey Friends.
> To Keith Turk and Kirk Kvam, Thank You both. I look forward to putting
a
> few down with you guys. And Keith, we'll make that speed run in the BN-7
this
> year.
>
> Kind Regards to the List, and My Friends
>
> John S. Hunt
>
> 1967 BJ-8 3000 MK-III
> 1962 BN-7 3000 MK-II Tri-Carb 2-seater
> 1958 Model-55 Healey Sports Boat
> 1953 Nash Healey LeMans Coupe
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 09:50:56 EST
Subject: Re: Out in the snow on 1st of January
In a message dated 01/06/2001 2:43:34 AM Eastern Standard Time,
aroil@sensewave.com writes:
<< Weather-conditions:?
- Lots of snow
- Minus 10 degrees Celsius (= 14 degrees Fahrenheit >>
Geez! That is hilarious! I noticed that you all run the regulat tires in
the snow over there. You know, I have an origional set of Healey snow tires
here. I bought some wheels from a former healey owner years ago in
Baltimore, and these had studded snow tires on them! He thought that he
could drive his car in the winter. Said he decided against it after the
second drive and these wheels stayed under his house ever since.
Anyone interested? I'm not sure how the concurse judges would take them. ;o)
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 10:34:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Out in the snow on 1st of January
>Kaldt? Nfhhh!!!
That's easy enough to translate into English :-)
Hi, Anders!
The photos of your club outing are great, thanks for sharing. I remember
you posted similar pictures of your New Year's Day club drive last year.
That looks like some cold fun. The Morgan in the third picture is cheating,
though -- the side curtains are up!
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Anders Roil <aroil@sensewave.com>
To: JH67HEALEY@aol.com <JH67HEALEY@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, January 06, 2001 3:11 AM
Subject: Out in the snow on 1st of January
>
>The 1st of January the Norwegian "Alltheyeararound"-club for open cars had
it's
>annual meeting. As a "Vorespiel" to this event, The Norwegian Sportscar
club
>(www.sportsvogn.no) had a barbecue -party in my garden.
>
>Weather-conditions:?
>- Lots of snow
>- Minus 10 degrees Celsius (= 14 degrees Fahrenheit
>
>Take a look at the pictures at,
>http://www.sportsvogn.no/artikler/helaarsklubben2001.htm. The text is in
>Norwegian, but pictures in global. (The read Healey is mine)
>
>I wish you all a very nice Healey year in 2001
>
>Best Regards
>Anders Roil
>
>http://home.sol.no/~anroil/
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 17:06:58 +0100
Subject: Re: Out in the snow on 1st of January
> Geez! That is hilarious! I noticed that you all run the regulat tires in
> the snow over there. You know, I have an origional set of Healey snow tires
> here. I bought some wheels from a former healey owner years ago in
> Baltimore, and these had studded snow tires on them! He thought that he
> could drive his car in the winter. Said he decided against it after the
> second drive and these wheels stayed under his house ever since.
>
> Anyone interested? I'm not sure how the concurse judges would take them. ;o)
>
> Tim Wallace
> '67 BJ8
> Fuquay-Varina, NC
Oh well........ I guess some are more "chicken" ..or "yellow " then others.....
;-)
Some years ago... uhh... actually 25 years ago, I was the proud owner of a MGB
with a plastic "hard" top. It was my only car, so, yes.... I had to drive it
all year. And living in Norway, that includes snow & cold weather. I would
"chicken" out on that today though.............
I remember driving it some 250km. to visit my, then girlfriend, now wife, all
dressed up like the Michelin-man. The "heater" on full blast, to no awail.
It was NO WAY near a perfect match at all. More like a sled. I had to push it
forward more then once, facing 1 inch of snow was too much. Great memories.
E.Larssen 60BT7 (without "hard" -top)
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 09:29:52 -0800
Subject: Re: To be (concours) or not to be (concours) that is the
Hey Bob,
You forgot to mention to the list that your car
also won 1st place at California Healey Week
@ Big Bear along with several other POPULAR
awards since the restoration whilest your Jensen
does the same.
Concours is a great exercise in perfection and pride
of accomplishment in the eyes of the owner and a
couple of knowledgeable judges.
Popular is an even greater exercise in perfection and
pride, in that, the people, owners, drivers, who have
themselves, labored in love maintaining the marque,
etc, etc, voted for and think your car is better prepaired
than their own.
Healey on,
Kirk Kvam
----- Original Message -----
From: <RobertH148@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 2:37 PM
Subject: Re: To be (concours) or not to be (concours) that is the question.
>
> I had my 1960 BT7 restored 2 years ago to be a driver. It was a very
original
> car that I had owned for 10 years. It seems to have never been touched for
> other than routine maintenance and some body repairs from an accident. It
did
> have some rust and needed a good overhaul. All the numbers matched.
> I wanted a good driver and I had the engine modified with BJ8 carbs, dual
> point ignition, a jet-hot coated exhaust manifold and a few other
> improvements for durability and performance. Otherwise, I kept the car as
> original as possible, including the 48 spoke wheels and the original
> knock-offs.
> The car came out so well that I decided to enter it in concours just to
see
> what it would do. I had only a few more items done to get it as close to
> concours specs as possible at very little additional expense. One of the
> reasons was to establish a value for any possible insurance claims if
> something should happen to the car.
> The car took a high silver award and just missed gold by only 10 pts. This
> was better than I had expected and I was quite pleased with the award,
> considering the things that I knew were wrong going in. But, I was still
> somewhat disappointed to have missed gold by such a small margin.
> The car has been driven over 3000 miles since and it runs great. I fully
> enjoy it and have no fear about taking long trips.
> The point that I am trying to make is: If you are restoring a car to a
high
> level, it won't take much more time or money to do the little additional
> things that could make it concours level. I didn't go to any extremes to
get
> it. If you do a good job with the restoration, it won't hurt to submit it
for
> concours judging. You may be pleasantly surprised.
> Bob Humphreys
From JH67HEALEY at aol.com
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 12:49:41 EST
Subject: Re: Friendship/was concours
Keith, isn't it wonderful to live in a World, where our friends have
different stanards, rules, politics and opinions. All of us should learn to
respect the opinions of our friends even though we might not always agree,
but we are all entiled to our "own" opinion. But friends except the opinions
and ideas of others. We all have different taste in what we drive, wear, the
kind of beer we drink, our hobbies. Life is too short to wage war here on
this list, I don't think the list was meant to be this way but to express
your opinion and help others in the quest to enhance thier knowledge of these
fine Sports Cars. All of us should sit back and think of the friendships that
have envoled over the ownership of these cars, it truly have been the most
enjoyable experience through the years for me personally, I have made life
long friends all because of the Dream of Man who really had no idea that
50yrs later we would all get together to Celebrate 50yrs of the Healey in
Lake Tahoe I know I wont miss the opportunity to see the Guest and enthusiast
from around the world who will be in attendance. Well I'll step off my beer
case and go back into the shadows now, I hope this "personnal opinion" hasn't
hurt anyones feelings, but they are my own observations through many years of
attending Meets all over the States and abroad.
Regards to All,
John S. Hunt
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 13:10:14 -0500
Subject: Concours standard
I am in the middle of my first Healey restoration. In fact this is my
first restoration period. I researched the subject of car restoration
( and Healeys in particular ) for a ridiculously long time.
One thing I can say is that any restoration is a financial strain and
a lot of work for the person restoring it, be it the owner or the
professionnal restorer. My view is that going that extra length to
insure the car is worth all that effort in the end, is not
unreasonnable. Concours standards are common practice in all other
car clubs, why should Healeys be any different? Personnally I like
the challenge and I think I'll learn to "do it right" that way. I may
or may not succeed, but I think there is some leeway in the rules,
and if I can fix the small mistakes I made for the next show, then
all the better.
Having said that, I have every respect for someone who can improve
the reliability of the car and keep in the spirit of the period. As
long as the car can be brought back to original by the next owner,
why not have fun with it. Most "driver" Healeys I have seen respect
the original much more than the '32 Fords out there...
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 13:25:56 -0500
Subject: RE: Out in the snow on 1st of January
Anders,
Great pictures. What make are the two modern cars (one red,
one silver) in the upper left hand picture?
Also, where was the picture in the middle of the bottom row
taken?
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Anders Roil
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 2:49 AM
To: JH67HEALEY@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Out in the snow on 1st of January
The 1st of January the Norwegian "Alltheyeararound"-club for open cars had
it's
annual meeting. As a "Vorespiel" to this event, The Norwegian Sportscar club
(www.sportsvogn.no) had a barbecue -party in my garden.
Weather-conditions:?
- Lots of snow
- Minus 10 degrees Celsius (= 14 degrees Fahrenheit
Take a look at the pictures at,
http://www.sportsvogn.no/artikler/helaarsklubben2001.htm. The text is in
Norwegian, but pictures in global. (The read Healey is mine)
I wish you all a very nice Healey year in 2001
Best Regards
Anders Roil
http://home.sol.no/~anroil/
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 11:27:28 -0800
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
Why not? Last time I checked I never heard of a case where rain hurt any car
even a Healey. Let's see how many listers reply with acid rain warnings.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>; <Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 1:08 PM
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
>
> Just curious, but I wonder how many of the oft-driven Concours Healey's
are
> driven in the rain. For that matter, how many of any Healey's are driven
in
> the rain.
>
> Not mine I confess...
> ---
> Lee Mairs
> '62 Mk II Tri-carb
> ---
> Whether the State is trying to retain its legitimacy or fight for its
> life, as in time of war, it must generally control what the people
> think. Public schooling is one of the major means the State uses to
> accomplish this. Another is by legislating the criminal boundaries
> of what is and what is not acceptable criticism.
> -- Carl Watner, The Voluntaryist
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 14:38:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
francois wildi: writes
> Since you are neither working on your car nor driving it
around, I
> cannot see what there is to be proud of. Your check-writing
skill
> maybe? Or the sheer thinckness of your wallet? Proud to know the
> (surely excellent) caftsman who did the work?
On the other hand, we have in our club a proud owner of a recently
restored "original" small Healey. The car is shiny enough but the
obvious general defects and the lack of attention to detail and
originality were only a function of this gentleman's lack of
knowledge or lack of discipline and logistics. It was possible to
make this car significantly better for the same dollars.
The real irony is this is the same guy who for years ran around
pointing out "wrong tire size" on various concours level cars. His
current mode is to mock, without provocation, the concours
standards as irrelevant.
His car is stock, his attitude is arrogant and defensive. God help
us if he ever does create a concours winner.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug (mostly concours and driven hard)
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 11:33:32 -0800
Subject: Re: New Carpet...
People's choice. The only category that I can respond to. An unsophisticated
response to the age and beauty of Healeys. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Cleary <pcleary@ican.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 2:01 PM
Subject: New Carpet...
>
> Thank you to those that responded. It is appreciated.
>
> It is funny to read all these letters about concourse cars. I bought mine
to
> drive and take pleasure in attending the various meets in my area. My car
is
> far from concourse I use it in all weathers, (except snow), and it gives
me
> great pleasure when I win a place in shows, of which the judging is by the
> people at the show.
>
> They dont care about concourse, but rather enjoy the car for what it is. I
am
> new to this list, and find it funny to see alot of familar names. This
list
> should be posted in the healey club magazines for all to enjoy.
>
> I would like to say hi to Steve Byers, Mike Salter and Rich Chrysler, I
own
> Rich's first Healey, A 1967 BJ8, its been through hell and back but still
> going strong. He should tell the story of this car sometime, its very
> interesting.
>
> I look forward to all the upcoming listings.
>
> Regards to all.
>
>
> Paul Cleary.
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 11:41:34 -0800
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
A very uninteresting exercise in futility. Personally I'd rather sit on a
bench in the park and watch the grass grow. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: Reid Trummel <AHCUSA@excite.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 6:45 PM
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
>
> Hi all,
>
> I've been receiving the Healeys list in digest form these past couple of
> weeks (which means I receive it delayed at least several hours) because
I've
> been traveling and will be traveling for the next couple of weeks also, so
> please forgive if the below points have already been made in this
> discussion. However, I just wanted to add a little info about concours in
> the continuing struggle to explode the myths that surround the subject.
>
> First, we of the Concours Committee do not require or encourage anyone to
> restore their cars with original faults (as the Corvette people do,
complete
> with mandatory, factory-original overspray in certain places). Instead,
our
> philosophy is that cars should be restored to the way that the designers
> *intended* them to be produced. For example, no designer intends for his
> car to have poor door gaps, but through faults of materials, processes
> and/or workmanship, such gaps can be uneven. It would be silly to try to
> reproduce these imperfections. Heck, I've seen original Healeys with
> obvious runs in the paint, but we would never suggest that anyone
restoring
> a car should put runs in their paint because "that's the way they came
from
> the factory." So please, let's get over this idea that faults or mistakes
> or other unfortunate, unintended original features of the cars must be
> duplicated to avoid a deduction in concours. Simply t'aint so.
>
> Second, the vast majority of "concours cars" are driven and never trailed.
> I know of only a very, very few "concours cars" that are ever trailed. So
> please, let's get over this idea that a "concours car" is some museum
piece
> that never sees the light of day and never turns a wheel under its own
> power. Simply t'aint so.
>
> Third, that brings up another point I like to make, and that is that a
> "concours car" (and there's no exact definition of what that means, other
> than perhaps any car ever submitted for concours judging) does not have to
> be, and never is, a "perfect car." We judge on a 1000-point basis, and
each
> of those 1000 points can be split into halves. To achieve the highest
> rating -- "Gold" -- a car must achieve 950 or more points. That means
that
> it can be penalized 50 points and *still achieve the highest rating.*
And,
> since each of those 50 points can be split in half, that means that a car
> could have up to 100 half-point deductions *and still achieve the highest
> rating.* 100 faults is a lot of faults. And remember, to achieve 850
> points -- the minimum total needed to achieve the Bronze level -- a car
> could have 300 faults and still be "concours certified." So please, let's
> get over this idea that concours cars are perfect or even near-perfect.
> Simply t'aint so.
>
> Fourth, it is a continuing source of curiosity (and occasionally mild
> exasperation) to observe the persistent myths, misunderstandings, and
> misperceptions surrounding the subject of "concours." Frankly sometimes
it
> seems like the less someone knows about, the more they dislike and
disparage
> it! No, it's not for everyone, but no one is forced to participate. We
> judges don't go around searching out cars to judge, against the owner's
> desires, just so that we can present him/her with a list of "faults." We
> make every effort to make the experience positive by providing (1)
> recognition and (2) information on how to improve the originality of the
> cars, FOR THOSE WHO WANT IT. So please, let's get over this idea that
> concours judges are on a mission to attack anyone's self-esteem or
criticize
> their car. Simply t'aint so.
>
> Heck, I'm a concours judge myself and although one of my four
Austin-Healeys
> is a "concours car," my latest acquisition is a Bugeye with a 1275 cc
> engine, a Datsun 5-speed gearbox, front disc brakes and some other
> non-original mods. And you know what? It's an absolute hoot to drive and
I
> love it! No, it wouldn't do too well in concours, but that is utterly and
> completely irrelevant and I don't feel threatened or belittled or excluded
> in any way just because there are some concours-Gold Bugeyes out there
that
> are much more original.
>
> I guess you could say that concours is a little like the space program
> (although in one important way its even better since your taxes are not
> used to subsidize concours if you dont participate, its completely
> free!). Anyway its like the space program in this regard: Not everyone
> goes into space, and no one is required to. However, almost everyone
reaps
> some spin-off benefits from it in one form or another, so whether you
> directly participate or not, you should be happy that it's there.
>
> Cheers,
> Reid Trummel
> Tampa, Florida
> 2 x BN2
> 2 x AN5
> http://www.healey.org
> http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Send a cool gift with your E-Card
> http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 11:50:52 -0800
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
The Monterey Historics began last year insisting that all cars be driven as
a criterion of judgeing. What a thrill to see these magnificent cars roaring
up that hill (it was a hill climb) and manuvering through a mild chicane. I
hope Meadowbrook and Pebble Beach follow suit. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: Arjay <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Reid Trummel <AHCUSA@excite.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 12:18 AM
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
>
> Wow! When this thread began I thought it began as a tongue-in-cheek spoof
on
> ourselves. We have now become like the little old ladies at the home,
going for
> the jugular. Nobody who is seriously restoring a car, of any make, is
doing
> anything other than what Reid is saying. I'll put my Healey up against any
> Healey in the world, today. My car is as it was designed, not executed. I
sure
> as hell won't drive mine to Meadowbrook this summer. I'll trailer it like
99%
> of the cars that will be shown there. Anyone driving a serious concours
car on
> the street, in my estimation, is foolish. I'll drive my Ferrari on the
street,
> it can be repaired or replaced should something unfortunate happen. But
not my
> Healey. Repair it and it looses four years worth of painstaking
restoration.
> Replace it? I can't. But that's my choice. I don't need it as a driver and
if I
> did, it wouldn't have been a concours car. It's all in choices.
>
> So now it's time to sit back, enjoy one of those quality beers and talk
about
> the 100mm that you once saw an old lady driving in Pasadena. Lighten
up!!!!
> It's a new year.
>
> Bob Denton
>
> Reid Trummel wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I've been receiving the Healeys list in digest form these past couple of
> > weeks (which means I receive it delayed at least several hours) because
I've
> > been traveling and will be traveling for the next couple of weeks also,
so
> > please forgive if the below points have already been made in this
> > discussion. However, I just wanted to add a little info about concours
in
> > the continuing struggle to explode the myths that surround the subject.
> >
> > First, we of the Concours Committee do not require or encourage anyone
to
> > restore their cars with original faults (as the Corvette people do,
complete
> > with mandatory, factory-original overspray in certain places). Instead,
our
> > philosophy is that cars should be restored to the way that the designers
> > *intended* them to be produced. For example, no designer intends for
his
> > car to have poor door gaps, but through faults of materials, processes
> > and/or workmanship, such gaps can be uneven. It would be silly to try
to
> > reproduce these imperfections. Heck, I've seen original Healeys with
> > obvious runs in the paint, but we would never suggest that anyone
restoring
> > a car should put runs in their paint because "that's the way they came
from
> > the factory." So please, let's get over this idea that faults or
mistakes
> > or other unfortunate, unintended original features of the cars must be
> > duplicated to avoid a deduction in concours. Simply t'aint so.
> >
> > Second, the vast majority of "concours cars" are driven and never
trailed.
> > I know of only a very, very few "concours cars" that are ever trailed.
So
> > please, let's get over this idea that a "concours car" is some museum
piece
> > that never sees the light of day and never turns a wheel under its own
> > power. Simply t'aint so.
> >
> > Third, that brings up another point I like to make, and that is that a
> > "concours car" (and there's no exact definition of what that means,
other
> > than perhaps any car ever submitted for concours judging) does not have
to
> > be, and never is, a "perfect car." We judge on a 1000-point basis, and
each
> > of those 1000 points can be split into halves. To achieve the highest
> > rating -- "Gold" -- a car must achieve 950 or more points. That means
that
> > it can be penalized 50 points and *still achieve the highest rating.*
And,
> > since each of those 50 points can be split in half, that means that a
car
> > could have up to 100 half-point deductions *and still achieve the
highest
> > rating.* 100 faults is a lot of faults. And remember, to achieve 850
> > points -- the minimum total needed to achieve the Bronze level -- a car
> > could have 300 faults and still be "concours certified." So please,
let's
> > get over this idea that concours cars are perfect or even near-perfect.
> > Simply t'aint so.
> >
> > Fourth, it is a continuing source of curiosity (and occasionally mild
> > exasperation) to observe the persistent myths, misunderstandings, and
> > misperceptions surrounding the subject of "concours." Frankly sometimes
it
> > seems like the less someone knows about, the more they dislike and
disparage
> > it! No, it's not for everyone, but no one is forced to participate. We
> > judges don't go around searching out cars to judge, against the owner's
> > desires, just so that we can present him/her with a list of "faults."
We
> > make every effort to make the experience positive by providing (1)
> > recognition and (2) information on how to improve the originality of the
> > cars, FOR THOSE WHO WANT IT. So please, let's get over this idea that
> > concours judges are on a mission to attack anyone's self-esteem or
criticize
> > their car. Simply t'aint so.
> >
> > Heck, I'm a concours judge myself and although one of my four
Austin-Healeys
> > is a "concours car," my latest acquisition is a Bugeye with a 1275 cc
> > engine, a Datsun 5-speed gearbox, front disc brakes and some other
> > non-original mods. And you know what? It's an absolute hoot to drive
and I
> > love it! No, it wouldn't do too well in concours, but that is utterly
and
> > completely irrelevant and I don't feel threatened or belittled or
excluded
> > in any way just because there are some concours-Gold Bugeyes out there
that
> > are much more original.
> >
> > I guess you could say that concours is a little like the space program
> > (although in one important way its even better since your taxes are not
> > used to subsidize concours if you dont participate, its completely
> > free!). Anyway its like the space program in this regard: Not everyone
> > goes into space, and no one is required to. However, almost everyone
reaps
> > some spin-off benefits from it in one form or another, so whether you
> > directly participate or not, you should be happy that it's there.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Reid Trummel
> > Tampa, Florida
> > 2 x BN2
> > 2 x AN5
> > http://www.healey.org
> > http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
> >
> > _______________________________________________________
> > Send a cool gift with your E-Card
> > http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 14:53:22 EST
Subject: Re: BJ7 carpet edging
In a message dated 1/4/01 8:53:18 AM, HealeyRic2@aol.com writes:
<< Listers,
I know BJ7 carpets had vinyl binding on the gearbox carpeting around the
shifter opening. Was the cutout for the emergency brake also edged or was
it left as cut?
Thanks,
Rick >>
Are you sure you really, really want to know exactly what the factory did?
(sideways joke.)
The carpet was edged with vinyl around the "U" over the emergency brake. (and
around the gear shift opening, but in no other place.)
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Chairman, AH Concours Registry
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 11:55:46 -0800
Subject: Re: To be (concours) or not to be (concours) that is the
Man there's nothing more rewarding than tackling a problem on the Healey and
solving it. Better than getting l**d. Goes to show you what my sex life has
been like. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Yarber <dyarber@dynasty.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 10:26 AM
Subject: To be (concours) or not to be (concours) that is the question.
>
> I have written a few words in the past regarding concours. I think it is
> fine for those who want to go that route. I, personally, think that if
you
> have enough time and money (mostly money) you can do with it what you
> please.
>
> To buy an Austin Healey, take it to a restorer and pay him $30,000 or more
> to return it to concours condition, then go win a trophy at a "concours"
> show or any other car show, to me is like the Yankees and Steinbrenner
> buying all the best players to win the World Series.
>
> I know this will get me some flames, but I also know that I, and only I,
> control my delete key. So rave on, all you Yankee fans!
>
> I really admire hard working people who spend hundreds of hours reworking
> their own cars, (and lots of bucks too), but I find very little admiration
> for the guys who just spend the bucks so that they can win trophies. I've
> probably spent as many hours on my old Red Devil as a lot of people,
however
> I would gladly spend more (and more money) to keep it running so I can
drive
> these Western Kentucky backroads in the spring. Don't give a damn if I
ever
> win a trophy, though.
>
> Don
> BN7 2 seat tri-carb
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 11:58:23 -0800
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
I'd rather sit down with another Healey owner and swap stories of repairs
made and the problems I encountered and how I solved them.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: francois wildi <fwildi@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
>
> To this gentleman who writes:
>
> "I have now spent four years of writing checks to a man whose
> business is hell-bent on making my Austin Healey a "proper" cheap
> sports car so that I can take it to a concours show and show it as
> authentic. I have spent tens of thousands of dollars to make it like
> the $4,000 car it was. And I'm damned proud of it. It's the most
> beautiful car that I have owned. Drive it? Why? I have other cars
> that I drive."
>
> I would like to say 2 things:
>
> a) Since you are neither working on your car nor driving it around, I
> cannot see what there is to be proud of. Your check-writing skill
> maybe? Or the sheer thinckness of your wallet? Proud to know the
> (surely excellent) caftsman who did the work?
>
> b) I know at least one thing that is far from original on this car:
> It's owner state of mind. There is no doubt the D. Healey designed
> sportscars to do sport with cars.
>
> Francois
> Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 12:03:58 -0800
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
I really don't think the issue is restoring the cars to concours level, it's
not wanting to drive them afterwards. How can anyone own a Healey and not
want to drive it? If I was at a meet admiring a Healey and was told by the
owner that no one drives the car I'd move on and look at other Healeys. It
just seems sad to me. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net>
To: francois wildi <fwildi@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 11:38 AM
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
>
> You are absolutely WRONG.... and the assumption that everyone can or wants
> to enjoy the Mechanical side of this hobby is udder non-sense... The Mans
> check book is exactly that.... it's his... he gets to pick what he finds
> important in his life.... seems to me by what he said... was that he was
> going to bring that car for all to enjoy.... wow... works for me... I
don't
> care how it got there.... because he has the ability to have it
> done...doesn't lessen the car or his desire to own one of that quality...
>
> I know that was really offensive... and I really didn't mean for it to
> be.... remember this is a place we all come to have fun.... not bash each
> other.... that having been said.... you have to respect each persons
desire
> to follow this hobby in any manner they see fit.... anything less then
that
> is offensive....
>
> I may not want to own or build a concours car... but I respect that part
of
> the hobby and in everything I have ever said about it I have made that
point
> abundantly clear....
>
> I do have the mechanical ability.... but if I chose to have it done I sure
> wouldn't want someone looking down thier nose at me because I did......
>
> This man has LOTS to be Proud of.... and I Personally thank him for
> restoring one to that level....
>
> Keith Turk
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "francois wildi" <fwildi@yahoo.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 1:23 PM
> Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
>
>
> >
> > To this gentleman who writes:
> >
> > "I have now spent four years of writing checks to a man whose
> > business is hell-bent on making my Austin Healey a "proper" cheap
> > sports car so that I can take it to a concours show and show it as
> > authentic. I have spent tens of thousands of dollars to make it like
> > the $4,000 car it was. And I'm damned proud of it. It's the most
> > beautiful car that I have owned. Drive it? Why? I have other cars
> > that I drive."
> >
> > I would like to say 2 things:
> >
> > a) Since you are neither working on your car nor driving it around, I
> > cannot see what there is to be proud of. Your check-writing skill
> > maybe? Or the sheer thinckness of your wallet? Proud to know the
> > (surely excellent) caftsman who did the work?
> >
> > b) I know at least one thing that is far from original on this car:
> > It's owner state of mind. There is no doubt the D. Healey designed
> > sportscars to do sport with cars.
> >
> > Francois
> > Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 15:08:50 EST
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
In a message dated 1/4/01 1:04:00 PM, lmairs@cox.rr.com writes:
<< Just curious, but I wonder how many of the oft-driven Concours Healey's are
driven in the rain. For that matter, how many of any Healey's are driven in
the rain.
Not mine I confess... >>
I had the pleasure of driving with four other concours-standard Healey owners
from Ocean Shores, Washington, to Vancouver Island this summer. It rained
continuously and hard the entire day (maybe that's why they called the area
we chose to drive through a "rain forest"). Having left my (Gold Level)
concours car on Vancouver Island, my wife and I came back up a month later
and drove it from Victoria to San Francisco (1100 miles) with rain off and on
the first day. Rain is not a factor in determining whether or not we drive
the car. Oh, by the way, it isn't a nasty boy, but it did get trophies not
only in the popular choice show, but also in both the high-speed run and
autocross -- the only car I believe that got trophies in both speed runs.
Incidentally, highest speed of day in an unmodified Healey was scored by a
car that was judged gold the day before, and drove with us in the rain the
day after!
In their original form or modified, sitting still, at speed, or on tour,
Healeys are absolutely bloody marvelous.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 12:09:56 -0800
Subject: Re: To be (concours) or not to be (concours) that is the
You're hooked. You'll be back on the list saying that you're disappointment
about missing Gold by ten points has been grinding at you and you've decided
to do a full concours resto and never drive the car again. Should never have
shown it. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: <RobertH148@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 2:37 PM
Subject: Re: To be (concours) or not to be (concours) that is the question.
>
> I had my 1960 BT7 restored 2 years ago to be a driver. It was a very
original
> car that I had owned for 10 years. It seems to have never been touched for
> other than routine maintenance and some body repairs from an accident. It
did
> have some rust and needed a good overhaul. All the numbers matched.
> I wanted a good driver and I had the engine modified with BJ8 carbs, dual
> point ignition, a jet-hot coated exhaust manifold and a few other
> improvements for durability and performance. Otherwise, I kept the car as
> original as possible, including the 48 spoke wheels and the original
> knock-offs.
> The car came out so well that I decided to enter it in concours just to
see
> what it would do. I had only a few more items done to get it as close to
> concours specs as possible at very little additional expense. One of the
> reasons was to establish a value for any possible insurance claims if
> something should happen to the car.
> The car took a high silver award and just missed gold by only 10 pts. This
> was better than I had expected and I was quite pleased with the award,
> considering the things that I knew were wrong going in. But, I was still
> somewhat disappointed to have missed gold by such a small margin.
> The car has been driven over 3000 miles since and it runs great. I fully
> enjoy it and have no fear about taking long trips.
> The point that I am trying to make is: If you are restoring a car to a
high
> level, it won't take much more time or money to do the little additional
> things that could make it concours level. I didn't go to any extremes to
get
> it. If you do a good job with the restoration, it won't hurt to submit it
for
> concours judging. You may be pleasantly surprised.
> Bob Humphreys
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 16:16:44 EST
Subject: Bowie meet
does anyone have a date and contact name (preferably with email) for the 2001
Bowie British Car Meet?
Cheers
Gary Anderson
editor, British Car magazine
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 15:15:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
My two cents worth doesn't hold a candle to the rest but I feel so good I
just have to share. Living at 9000' feet in Colorado makes the season
unusually short due to the weather and the fact that our driveway is steeply
inclined but for some reason this morning as I was getting ready to set off
for my granddaughter's 5th birthday party, being held at a bowling alley
down in Denver, about 50 miles east I decided to try and start the Healey.
Now it hasn't been started for about 3 months so I didn't expect it to start
but low and behold after cranking only about 20 or 30 seconds it sprang to
life. Well I let it warm up for a while but still didn't think I would get
it out as the top had been left down under the car cover and it fits so
tight that you can get it latched when it is good and hot out but not when
its cold. Well after grunting and groaning for about 30 minutes darned if I
didn't get it latched! Well with the snow and ice cover on the drive I
still wasn't planning to try to get it out but I thought what the heck, and
I would give it one try. You won't believe it but it made it all the way up
the drive. Well now there was no stopping me because it is downhill all the
way to Denver. Off I went and to get to the end of the story "WHAT a TRIP".
After partying for a couple of hours and stuffing myself with pizza and
birthday cake I came out of the bowling alley and it was beautiful, near 70
degrees. In I hopped and dropped the top and away I went and what a
glorious ride back up into the mountains. I don't think the car has ever
run this well. Just got home and had to share this experience. I was
getting tired of the car but now I am renewed. Sorry to waste bandwidth
Happy New Years to all.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 1:08 PM
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
>
> In a message dated 1/4/01 1:04:00 PM, lmairs@cox.rr.com writes:
>
> << Just curious, but I wonder how many of the oft-driven Concours Healey's
are
> driven in the rain. For that matter, how many of any Healey's are driven
in
> the rain.
>
> Not mine I confess... >>
>
> I had the pleasure of driving with four other concours-standard Healey
owners
> from Ocean Shores, Washington, to Vancouver Island this summer. It rained
> continuously and hard the entire day (maybe that's why they called the
area
> we chose to drive through a "rain forest"). Having left my (Gold Level)
> concours car on Vancouver Island, my wife and I came back up a month later
> and drove it from Victoria to San Francisco (1100 miles) with rain off and
on
> the first day. Rain is not a factor in determining whether or not we
drive
> the car. Oh, by the way, it isn't a nasty boy, but it did get trophies
not
> only in the popular choice show, but also in both the high-speed run and
> autocross -- the only car I believe that got trophies in both speed runs.
> Incidentally, highest speed of day in an unmodified Healey was scored by a
> car that was judged gold the day before, and drove with us in the rain the
> day after!
>
> In their original form or modified, sitting still, at speed, or on tour,
> Healeys are absolutely bloody marvelous.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 17:45:08 EST
Subject: Non-Healey but could fit
>From another list..........
> > Subject: Dalai Lama on 2001
> > >>
> > >> This is what The Dalai Lama has to say on the
> > >> millennium, which begins
> > >> 01/01/2001. All it takes is a few seconds to
> > >> read and think about.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Do not keep this message. The mantra must
> > >> leave your hands within 96 hours.
> > >> You will get a very pleasant surprise. This is
> > >> true even if you are not
> > >> superstitious.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Instructions for Life in the new millennium
> > >> from the Dalai Lama:
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> 1. Take into account that great love and great
> > >> achievements involve great
> > >> risk.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> 2. When you lose, don't lose the lesson.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> 3. Follow the three Rs: Respect for self,
> > >> respect for others
> > >> responsibility for all your actions.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> 4. Remember that not getting what you want is
> > >> sometimes a wonderful
> > >> stroke of luck.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> 5. Learn the rules so you know how to break
> > >> them properly.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> 6. Don't let a little dispute injure a great
> > >> friendship.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> 7. When you realize you've made a mistake,
> > >> take immediate steps to
> > >> correct it.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> 8. Spend some time alone every day.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> 9. Open your arms to change, but don't let go
> > >> of your values.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> 10. Remember that silence is sometimes the
> > >> best answer.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> 11. Live a good, honorable life. Then when you
> > >> get older and think back,
> > >> you'll be able to enjoy it a second time.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> 12. A loving atmosphere in your home is the
> > >> foundation for your life.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> 13. In disagreements with loved ones, deal
> > >> only with the current
> > >> situation. Don't bring up the past.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> 14. Share your knowledge. It's a way to
> > >> achieve immortality.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> 15. Be gentle with the earth.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> 16. Once a year, go someplace you've never
> > >> been before.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> 17. Remember that the best relationship is one
> > >> in which your love for each
> > >> other exceeds your need for each other.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> 18. Judge your success by what you had to give
> > >> up in order to get it.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> 19. Approach love and cooking with reckless
> > >> abandon.
> > >>
John Stevens
"Ruby" BJ8 27621
JohnbS7257@aol.com
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 17:04:39 -0600
Subject: Re: Friendship/was concours
Well Said John..... Geez if we both had the same opinion.... One of us
wouldn't be Nessesary....
Okay I am off to stick this 6cylinder Ford Motor in my son's truck....
K
----- Original Message -----
From: <JH67HEALEY@aol.com>
To: <kturk@ala.net>; <Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 11:49 AM
Subject: Re: Friendship/was concours
>
> Keith, isn't it wonderful to live in a World, where our friends have
> different stanards, rules, politics and opinions. All of us should learn
to
> respect the opinions of our friends even though we might not always agree,
> but we are all entiled to our "own" opinion. But friends except the
opinions
> and ideas of others. We all have different taste in what we drive, wear,
the
> kind of beer we drink, our hobbies. Life is too short to wage war here on
> this list, I don't think the list was meant to be this way but to express
> your opinion and help others in the quest to enhance thier knowledge of
these
> fine Sports Cars. All of us should sit back and think of the friendships
that
> have envoled over the ownership of these cars, it truly have been the most
> enjoyable experience through the years for me personally, I have made life
> long friends all because of the Dream of Man who really had no idea that
> 50yrs later we would all get together to Celebrate 50yrs of the Healey in
> Lake Tahoe I know I wont miss the opportunity to see the Guest and
enthusiast
> from around the world who will be in attendance. Well I'll step off my
beer
> case and go back into the shadows now, I hope this "personnal opinion"
hasn't
> hurt anyones feelings, but they are my own observations through many years
of
> attending Meets all over the States and abroad.
>
> Regards to All,
>
> John S. Hunt
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 18:36:16 -0500
Subject: Mr. Finespanner search
Sorry to bomb the list, buy I tried to get in touch with Doug, aka
MrFinespanner on this list, but the email was returned even though it was a
"Reply To" exercise.
Are you out there Doug under a new email name?
---
Lee Mairs
'62 Mk II Tri-carb
---
Every movement that seeks to enslave a country, every dictatorship or
potential dictatorship, needs some minority group as a scapegoat which it
can blame for the nation's troubles and use as a justification of its own
demands for dictatorial powers. In Soviet Russia, the scapegoat was the
bourgeoisie; in Nazi Germany, it was the Jewish people; in America, it is
the
businessmen.
--Ayn Rand
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 18:35:56 -0600
Subject: Re: [healeys] 2001 Calendars - beautiful, full-color
For those of who missed the "wonderful" and VERY (er) "ladylike" reply from
the AHCA Second longest standing Officer (must be pi*sed?), our Treasurer,
Bev the following is FYI<G>!! It was address to the "egroups" List but must
have been meant for Beth as her's is the last name on the "post"?
<<Great reply!!!>>
Gee, Bev, ya can't tell it wasn't Beth that wrote it??
<<What an as*&$#@!>>
Guess you never did profess to be a "lady"!! LOL
<<Your check went out priority mail last Saturday morning. You should have
gotten it by Wed! >>
And the "priority" of that mail would be?? walking?? pony express?? AHCA
Inter-company mail??
<<Please let me know when it arrives.>>
er, a note inside asking for same mighta worked, think?
<<Thanks,
Bev>>
You'er welcome!!
Cheers................
Ed Kaler
Founding Member & Delegat, ILLINI Chapter - AHCA (20+ years) (are
you?)
(Honorary AHCA Member, 1985 & 1992)(are you?)
Member, AHCUSA
PS: In case you didn't realise it, the "author" of the following was NOT
the signee!!
PPS: More to follow.
----- Original Message -----
From: Classic MG Magazine <Subscribe@classicmgmagazine.com>
To: Delegates list <healeys@egroups.com>; Gary Lownsdale
<glownsdale@aol.com>; Don Lenschow <Drtrite@aol.com>
Cc: Scott Helms <Trmgafun@aol.com>; <modifiedhealeys@egroups.com>; Jim
Warner <BGAHC@aol.com>; Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>;
<AHCUSA@autox.team.net>; ahcusa List <ahcusa@teamfat2.dsl.aros.net>
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 12:04 PM
Subject: Re: [healeys] 2001 Calendars - beautiful, full-color
> Ed Kaler wrote:
> >>What the He*l, Beth?? We aren't making enough ectra $$ selling the
> Mailing
> >>List to every Tom, Dick and Harry??
>
> >>YOU have to have a "sponcered" email??
> >>Gimme a dam*ed break!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> >>Oh, I am sorry, guess the new MG rag ain't gonna make any $$ the first
> couple of years so YOU have to have a "free" and "sponcered" address.
> Right??
> ======================
> Dear Ed,
>
> Although your message is rude and objectionable, I will give you the
benefit
> of the doubt and assume this is one of your feeble attempts at humor.
>
> However, I do thank you for asking about the two projects... this allows
me
> to do some shameless promoting!
>
> A copy of the AHCA 2001 Calendar is free to every member of the AHCA and
is
> currently in the mail with their Healey Marque magazine. The overruns are
> available for sale, as they have been for each of the past years, to help
> offset the costs of production -- believe me this is not a big money
maker!
> Calendars can be purchased for $11 (includes S&H) from John Hunt (AHCA
Back
> Issues, 1031 Burlington Dr., Santa Maria, CA 93455; e-mail
> JH67HEALEY@aol.com). They are beautiful, full-color calendars that you
will
> be proud to hang in your office, home or garage.
>
> The Classic MG Magazine is a new publication which I own and publish.
This
> magazine is co-edited by Ken Smith (formerly of Moss Motoring a.k.a.
British
> Motoring) and Dick Lunney, and it has received enthusiastic support from
the
> major national MG car clubs as well as from advertisers and subscribers.
We
> are very excited about the first issue which will go out the end of this
> month. It has contributing writers such as John Twist, John Sprinzel,
David
> Knowles, Norman Nock, Jim Taylor and others. Anyone with interest in the
> magazine can e-mail me for further details.
>
> As for your personal problem with my e-mail address, I can't imagine why
you
> would care one way or the other. This is not a "free" or "sponsored"
> address; indeed, I paid a nice price for the domain name and hosting
service
> that provides the e-mail address. I notice you have a company name in
your
> e-mail address at AOL, which is a fine and inexpensive way to promote your
> business.
>
> As for AHCA making BIG bucks selling the mailing list, you should know
> better since you are an AHCA delegate and have been given the information.
> If you have a question or problem, contact Edie Anderson, VP/Membership.
>
> If you have further concerns about these matters, discuss them with other
> delegates so that they can go on the agenda for consideration at the next
> delegates meeting. Or you can take your concerns directly to the AHCA
> officers.
>
> Ed, remember Steve Byers' caution at the bottom of each of his e-mails:
"It
> is better to remain silent, and be thought a fool than to speak, and
remove
> all doubt" -- Mark Twain
>
> Beth Lunney
From "Paul Cleary" <pcleary at ican.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 20:28:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
Thats what owning a Healey is all about. Well said...The personal enjoyment
of returning the car to its former glory and knowing that YOU did it. Wow
what a rush...but owe those head aches...But worth every minute.
Paul Cleary
----- Original Message -----
From: Ray Feehan <feehanr@cadvision.com>
To: francois wildi <fwildi@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 2:58 PM
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
>
> I'd rather sit down with another Healey owner and swap stories of repairs
> made and the problems I encountered and how I solved them.
> RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: francois wildi <fwildi@yahoo.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 11:23 AM
> Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
>
>
> >
> > To this gentleman who writes:
> >
> > "I have now spent four years of writing checks to a man whose
> > business is hell-bent on making my Austin Healey a "proper" cheap
> > sports car so that I can take it to a concours show and show it as
> > authentic. I have spent tens of thousands of dollars to make it like
> > the $4,000 car it was. And I'm damned proud of it. It's the most
> > beautiful car that I have owned. Drive it? Why? I have other cars
> > that I drive."
> >
> > I would like to say 2 things:
> >
> > a) Since you are neither working on your car nor driving it around, I
> > cannot see what there is to be proud of. Your check-writing skill
> > maybe? Or the sheer thinckness of your wallet? Proud to know the
> > (surely excellent) caftsman who did the work?
> >
> > b) I know at least one thing that is far from original on this car:
> > It's owner state of mind. There is no doubt the D. Healey designed
> > sportscars to do sport with cars.
> >
> > Francois
> > Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 06 Jan 2001 18:04:48 -0800
Subject: Concours Standards
My thanks to the people dedicated to Concours, especially those who wrote and
maintain
the Standards book (forget the exact title - Dad has it). It's $25 (or so)
well spent for
any Healey owner.
Not only is it the (most) definitive guide to what was original -- for those
pursuing the elusive
Gold -- but it gives the thoughtful modifier a place to start (like a reference
design in engineering).
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 22:22:31 EST
Subject: Re: BJ7 carpet edging- Now concours standards
In a message dated 1/6/01 2:53:22 PM, Editorgary writes:
<<Are you sure you really, really want to know exactly what the factory did?
(sideways joke.)
The carpet was edged with vinyl around the "U" over the emergency brake. (and
around the gear shift opening, but in no other place.)>>
Gary,
I've got to pay attention to these little details, otherwise I'll never
have enough points to offset the Smitty's 5 speed conversion in my quest for
gold level :}
Seriously, I think there's plenty of room in Healydom for anyone to do
what they want with their own car. If you like concours, go for it. Nasty
Boys turn you on, I'm right behind you. Isn't one of the reasons we love
Healeys is that they mark us as
"individualists"? We've probably already restored enough Healeys to concours
levels to "preserve the marque". All the rest are fair game to do what makes
you happy.
Whatever floats your (Healey) boat!
Rick
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 23:35:28 EST
Subject: Re: Friendship/was concours
In a message dated 1/6/01 9:52:34 AM Pacific Standard Time,
JH67HEALEY@aol.com writes:
John,
You truly captured the essence of the Healey Clubs and this List. I hope
everyone on this List reads your remarks and reflects on them. We can't
continue to have the occasional acrimonious barbs that a couple of
enthusiasts seem to want to share. Thanks.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
<<
Keith, isn't it wonderful to live in a World, where our friends have
different standards, rules, politics and opinions. All of us should learn to
respect the opinions of our friends even though we might not always agree,
but we are all entiled to our "own" opinion. But friends except the opinions
and ideas of others. We all have different taste in what we drive, wear, the
kind of beer we drink, our hobbies. Life is too short to wage war here on
this list, I don't think the list was meant to be this way but to express
your opinion and help others in the quest to enhance thier knowledge of
these
fine Sports Cars. All of us should sit back and think of the friendships
that
have envoled over the ownership of these cars, it truly have been the most
enjoyable experience through the years for me personally, I have made life
long friends all because of the Dream of Man who really had no idea that
50yrs later we would all get together to Celebrate 50yrs of the Healey in
Lake Tahoe I know I wont miss the opportunity to see the Guest and
enthusiast
from around the world who will be in attendance. Well I'll step off my beer
case and go back into the shadows now, I hope this "personnal opinion"
hasn't
hurt anyones feelings, but they are my own observations through many years
of
attending Meets all over the States and abroad. >>
From "Gary Bridi" <gbridi at mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 23:46:39 -0500
Subject: test
Sorry to have to test, but I have had problems mailing to the list. Thanks
Gary B
From JH67HEALEY at aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 00:11:04 EST
Subject: Re: Friendship/was concours
Well I'm not going to flip a coin on this one Keith, lets just keep our
friendship and share our opinions together as we have since '96, we have alot
of things we wont to do in our own ways and together...John
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Sat, 06 Jan 2001 22:54:09 -0700
Subject: Re: To be (concours) or not to be (concours) that is
Hmmmm! Obviously one or the other activity is not being performed properly.
Bill Lawrence
Ray Feehan wrote:
> Man there's nothing more rewarding than tackling a problem on the Healey and
> solving it. Better than getting l**d. Goes to show you what my sex life has
> been like. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Don Yarber <dyarber@dynasty.net>
> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 10:26 AM
> Subject: To be (concours) or not to be (concours) that is the question.
>
> >
> > I have written a few words in the past regarding concours. I think it is
> > fine for those who want to go that route. I, personally, think that if
> you
> > have enough time and money (mostly money) you can do with it what you
> > please.
> >
> > To buy an Austin Healey, take it to a restorer and pay him $30,000 or more
> > to return it to concours condition, then go win a trophy at a "concours"
> > show or any other car show, to me is like the Yankees and Steinbrenner
> > buying all the best players to win the World Series.
> >
> > I know this will get me some flames, but I also know that I, and only I,
> > control my delete key. So rave on, all you Yankee fans!
> >
> > I really admire hard working people who spend hundreds of hours reworking
> > their own cars, (and lots of bucks too), but I find very little admiration
> > for the guys who just spend the bucks so that they can win trophies. I've
> > probably spent as many hours on my old Red Devil as a lot of people,
> however
> > I would gladly spend more (and more money) to keep it running so I can
> drive
> > these Western Kentucky backroads in the spring. Don't give a damn if I
> ever
> > win a trophy, though.
> >
> > Don
> > BN7 2 seat tri-carb
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 22:02:48 -0800
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
Does anybody drive their Healey in the rain you ask? EVERYBODY that was at
Ocean Shores drove his or her Healey in the rain.
Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 12:08 PM
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
>
> In a message dated 1/4/01 1:04:00 PM, lmairs@cox.rr.com writes:
>
> << Just curious, but I wonder how many of the oft-driven Concours Healey's
are
> driven in the rain. For that matter, how many of any Healey's are driven
in
> the rain.
>
> Not mine I confess... >>
>
> I had the pleasure of driving with four other concours-standard Healey
owners
> from Ocean Shores, Washington, to Vancouver Island this summer. It rained
> continuously and hard the entire day (maybe that's why they called the
area
> we chose to drive through a "rain forest"). Having left my (Gold Level)
> concours car on Vancouver Island, my wife and I came back up a month later
> and drove it from Victoria to San Francisco (1100 miles) with rain off and
on
> the first day. Rain is not a factor in determining whether or not we
drive
> the car. Oh, by the way, it isn't a nasty boy, but it did get trophies
not
> only in the popular choice show, but also in both the high-speed run and
> autocross -- the only car I believe that got trophies in both speed runs.
> Incidentally, highest speed of day in an unmodified Healey was scored by a
> car that was judged gold the day before, and drove with us in the rain the
> day after!
>
> In their original form or modified, sitting still, at speed, or on tour,
> Healeys are absolutely bloody marvelous.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 18:52:17 +0000
Subject: Re: British Registration book
Anders
If I understand the question correcly this is the date this particular
registration book was issued. However it is not necessarily the date
that the vehicle was first registered because you may be referring to a
continuation logbook. When tax was paid usually annually but sometimes
at lesser periods such as 6 months the logbook was stamped. When all the
places for a stamp were filled a new logbook would be issued. If there
were a change of owner this should have been entered and stamped soon
after transfer but often people would leave this until the tax was next
due.
I think the answer is after the car changed hands and possibly as much
as a year later.
>In the old british registrations books (as per vehicle act 1949) there is a
>official stamp with date to the left, just below the name of the different
>owners.
>
>Questions is, is that stamp showing the date the person just to the right
>above the stamp bought or sold the car?
>
>Anders Lotsengerd
>>S-572 40 Oskarshamn Sweden -59 BT7 (historic racer) -64 BJ8 (road use,
>>restored and OK!) -59 AN5 (a pile of scrap, later to become a car again!)
>_________________________________________________________________________
--
John Harper
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 11:22:20 EST
Subject: Want to Buy AH Roadster
Hi all,
I have a friend who wants to purchase an Austin Healey roadster. Must be an
excellent daily driver, British Racing Green color (or BRG over white or
black) and a roadster. Must be something that he can be proud of to drive to
club events. No project or semi-projects. He lives in the SF Bay Area, so
will consider cars in California, Nevada, Oregon, Washington or Arizona.
Please contact me off list.
Thanks.
John Soderling
jsoderling@aol.com
100-Six Erika the Red
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 11:34:35 -0500
Subject: Service Maunual
Hello all:
Would anyone on the list be willing to copy and fax me page K7&8, this is
the steering section (one page front and back) of the 100 service manual.
I've lost mine. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Fax # 302-629-6478
lance
54 bn1
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 14:11:37 EST
Subject: Re: BJ7 carpet edging- Now concours standards
In a message dated 1/6/01 7:24:03 PM, HealeyRic2@aol.com writes:
<< Seriously, I think there's plenty of room in Healydom for anyone to do
what they want with their own car. If you like concours, go for it. Nasty
Boys turn you on, I'm right behind you. >>
Right on -- I didn't mention that I also managed to run a good time on the
autocross course at Ocean Shores in Craig Anderson's slightly modified 100.
Could have gone faster, but my grin was too wide and was creating additional
wind resistance.
Cheers
Gary
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 15:04:15 EST
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
In a message dated 1/7/01 1:04:09 AM Eastern Standard Time,
thehartnetts@earthlink.net writes:
>
Well, anyone that drove to or almost any time while at the Southeastern
Classic at Myrtle Bch(Litchfield Bch), SC had to drive in the rain. The rain
did hold off long enough for the rescheduled Popularity Car Show.
Since my BJ-8 "Blackie" is not a Concours car I have no qualms about driving
in the rain. Just make sure that you use RAIN-X on the windscreen. The only
annoyance is a slight drip on my left thigh.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 15:45:23 EST
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard - driving in the rain
In a message dated 01/07/2001 3:06:10 PM Eastern Standard Time,
MBran89793@aol.com writes:
<< Since my BJ-8 "Blackie" is not a Concours car I have no qualms about
driving
in the rain. Just make sure that you use RAIN-X on the windscreen. The only
annoyance is a slight drip on my left thigh. >>
Boy, you sure must be driving fast if the only thing dripped on you was your
leg... wait a minute! Your weren't cheating by putting the top up were
you????
For shame! ;o)
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 14:57:04 -0600
Subject: Driving in the Rain
This thread reminds me of when my Austin Healey was stolen back in 75. I
recovered it from the police impound lot in Las Vegas and drove it back to
Long Beach, Ca. in a virtual downpour. Talk about cows PEEING on a flat
rock!
I had to hold the top bow with one hand (to keep it from blowing off) and
drive with the other. Downshifting and Upshifting was fun!
If God didn't want us to drive Healeys in the rain, he wouldn't allow it to
rain!
Don
BN7
God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
difference.
From Anders Roil <aroil at sensewave.com>
Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 22:38:14 +0100
Subject: Re: Out in the snow on 1st of January
Hello Peter
Thanks for your reply.
The cars are Fiat Barchettas (I'm not sure about the spelling).
The picture is from Frognerseteren resturant , close to the Skijumparena at
Holmenkollen in Oslo, some some 15 - 20 min. driving from downtown.
Anders
Peter Schauss wrote:
> Anders,
>
> Great pictures. What make are the two modern cars (one red,
> one silver) in the upper left hand picture?
>
> Also, where was the picture in the middle of the bottom row
> taken?
>
> Peter Schauss
> Long Island, NY
> 1980 MGB
> 1963 BJ7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Anders Roil
> Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 2:49 AM
> To: JH67HEALEY@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Out in the snow on 1st of January
>
> The 1st of January the Norwegian "Alltheyeararound"-club for open cars had
> it's
> annual meeting. As a "Vorespiel" to this event, The Norwegian Sportscar club
> (www.sportsvogn.no) had a barbecue -party in my garden.
>
> Weather-conditions:?
> - Lots of snow
> - Minus 10 degrees Celsius (= 14 degrees Fahrenheit
>
> Take a look at the pictures at,
> http://www.sportsvogn.no/artikler/helaarsklubben2001.htm. The text is in
> Norwegian, but pictures in global. (The read Healey is mine)
>
> I wish you all a very nice Healey year in 2001
>
> Best Regards
> Anders Roil
>
> http://home.sol.no/~anroil/
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 17:17:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Out in the snow on 1st of January
In 1980 I was traveling around Europe via train. I stayed in Oslo at a Bed and
Breakfast near Holmenkollen. The people who ran the Bed and Breakfast were
extremely nice and hospitable towards me... so much so that when they learned
that
I was going to Bremen and then back to Oslo a few days hence, they insisted
that I
return and use their house on my return trip. The catch was they were going to
be out of town. So, they showed me where they hid the key to their house, and
just told me to settle in for the night on my own, but they would be there in
the
morning after I arrived.
I have a special memory of how nice those folks were, and how well they treated
me. I also have a memory of the wonderful wooden tram that climbed the
mountain
to their house from Oslo. I used the tram to get around, and used it to go to
the ski jump area as well as to the town.
Is that tram still in service?... As I recall, the roadway was rather twisty and
steep. It seemed like it might be an ideal Healey road to drive. However, in
the
snow I imagine it must be a little sporty. Did you all have any thrills
driving
your cars up to the ski-jump area?
-Skip-
Anders Roil wrote:
> Hello Peter
>
> Thanks for your reply.
>
> The cars are Fiat Barchettas (I'm not sure about the spelling).
>
> The picture is from Frognerseteren resturant , close to the Skijumparena at
> Holmenkollen in Oslo, some some 15 - 20 min. driving from downtown.
>
> Anders
>
> Peter Schauss wrote:
>
> > Anders,
> >
> > Great pictures. What make are the two modern cars (one red,
> > one silver) in the upper left hand picture?
> >
> > Also, where was the picture in the middle of the bottom row
> > taken?
> >
> > Peter Schauss
> > Long Island, NY
> > 1980 MGB
> > 1963 BJ7
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Anders Roil
> > Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 2:49 AM
> > To: JH67HEALEY@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Out in the snow on 1st of January
> >
> > The 1st of January the Norwegian "Alltheyeararound"-club for open cars had
> > it's
> > annual meeting. As a "Vorespiel" to this event, The Norwegian Sportscar club
> > (www.sportsvogn.no) had a barbecue -party in my garden.
> >
> > Weather-conditions:?
> > - Lots of snow
> > - Minus 10 degrees Celsius (= 14 degrees Fahrenheit
> >
> > Take a look at the pictures at,
> > http://www.sportsvogn.no/artikler/helaarsklubben2001.htm. The text is in
> > Norwegian, but pictures in global. (The read Healey is mine)
> >
> > I wish you all a very nice Healey year in 2001
> >
> > Best Regards
> > Anders Roil
> >
> > http://home.sol.no/~anroil/
From Steve Dupus <stevsgarage at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 15:16:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Out in the snow on 1st of January
Anders Roil <aroil@sensewave.com> wrote:
Hello Peter
Thanks for your reply.
The cars are Fiat Barchettas (I'm not sure about the spelling).
The picture is from Frognerseteren resturant , close to the Skijumparena at
Holmenkollen in Oslo, some some 15 - 20 min. driving from downtown.
Anders
Peter Schauss wrote:
> Anders,
>
> Great pictures. What make are the two modern cars (one red,
> one silver) in the upper left hand picture?
>
> Also, where was the picture in the middle of the bottom row
> taken?
>
> Peter Schauss
> Long Island, NY
> 1980 MGB
> 1963 BJ7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Anders Roil
> Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 2:49 AM
> To: JH67HEALEY@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Out in the snow on 1st of January
>
> The 1st of January the Norwegian "Alltheyeararound"-club for open cars had
> it's
> annual meeting. As a "Vorespiel" to this event, The Norwegian Sportscar club
> (www.sportsvogn.no) had a barbecue -party in my garden.
>
> Weather-conditions:?
> - Lots of snow
> - Minus 10 degrees Celsius (= 14 degrees Fahrenheit
>
> Take a look at the pictures at,
> http://www.sportsvogn.no/artikler/helaarsklubben2001.htm. The text is in
> Norwegian, but pictures in global. (The read Healey is mine)
>
> I wish you all a very nice Healey year in 2001
>
> Best Regards
> Anders Roil
>
> http://home.sol.no/~anroil/
Barchetta is the correct spelling, barchette for plural. Italian for small boat
but also used to describe open wheel formula type cars. My wife is Italian.
Steve
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 18:28:03 EST
Subject: Gerry Gable
Hi all,
If Gerry Gable is still on the list, could he please contact me via
Trmgafun@aol.com.
Thanks,
Scott Helms
From "Phil Nase" <pnase at enter.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 19:30:13 -0500
Subject: FW: FW: [911] Obituary: John Cooper, CBE
I do wish I could take credit for the article regarding John Cooper,
however, it was a reprint from the 12/27/00 Daily Telegraph.
Phil Nase
55 BN1
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
> Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 3:15 PM
> To: pnase@enter.net
> Subject: Re: FW: [911] Obituary: John Cooper, CBE
>
>
>
> In a message dated 1/4/01 3:45:52 PM, pnase@enter.net writes:
>
> <<
> Ken Freese asked for this and I thought the entire list would be
> interested.
>
> Phil Nase >>
>
> Nicely written, Phil. Impressive detail, as well. I enjoyed
> reading it and
> appreciate that you took the time to write it -- I hope many of
> the clubs'
> newsletter editors will pick it up.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> editor, British Car Magazine
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 20:05:37 EST
Subject: That annoying drip -- was concours standard
In a message dated 1/7/01 12:06:05 PM, MBran89793@aol.com writes:
<< The only
annoyance is a slight drip on my left thigh. >>
Don't you just hate it when it does that? I know it's collecting in the
tray/bracket for the windshield washer -- seems sort of ironic, that -- and
then when I turn a corner it dumps the whole thing. But where is the water
coming in from and how can I stop it?
Cheers
Gary
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 20:08:04 -0500
Subject: Concours Thread
The recent Concours thread has been very interesting AGAIN! I note that many
of
the comments have been stated by those who haven't actually read the
policies, guidelines, or the standards, to really understand the whole
thing, but have their opinion to share none the less.
We "nuts" involved in the concours movement have worked very hard over the
years to record an "intended manufacturing standard". This means that the
assembly standards of the time, though often falling far short of the
intentions of quality, fit, and finish, still aimed at good panel fit, good
paint, and good overall quality of finish.
We have attempted to "draw a line in the sand" so that interested
individuals could have a standard to at least aim for, and so that judges in
turn could have a line to measure from.
If one was to read our guidelines, one would soon realize that we have tried
to gear our policies to encourage owners to build the car as accurately as
possible, but from the moment the car is finished to use the car.
I have over the years built, driven thousands of miles, and shown three of
my cars on concours judging fields. The cars were good enough to achieve
gold levels, and in turn were driven thousands of miles afterward. I have
tried never to abuse the cars, but to drive them well and often, and to
always encourage others to do the same.
My enjoyment in this hobby is to strive to experience what a new fresh tight
Healey must have been like to see, drive, and enjoy, and to try to help
others to achieve this same experience.
Rich Chrysler
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 19:24:35 -0600
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard - driving in the rain
<<...putting the top up were...>>
The WHAT????, Marion???
And your Concours Committee Title is.....????
ROTFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ed (aka, da "hood")
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 20:20:48 -0500
Subject: Service Manual
Thanks to all who sent me the pages from the 100 service manual.
lance
54 bn1
From RobertH148 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 21:00:40 EST
Subject: Re: Driving in the Rain
I don't drive my Healeys in the rain any more, unless I get caught out. This
doesn't happen very often in Southern Calif.
However, from about 1961 until 1966, the only cars I owned were Healeys and
MGs. They were driven in the rain, snow, ice and mud on the East Coast.
Frequently with the top down in all weather conditions. Wet ignitions and
hard starting during very cold weather were often problems.
After getting stuck in the "BOG" at Watkins Glen in my Healey, I was never
able to fully remove the mud from the underside of car, even after washing
and flushing with a hose.
Once, during a snow storm in Phila., I had a cop use his PA system to ask me
if I was cold with the top down. I said no, but it was a problem keeping the
backside of the windshield clear.
Those were the good old days when I was younger and maybe not so bright.
Bob Humphreys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 21:56:47 EST
Subject: Re: That annoying drip -- was concours standard
<< But where is the water coming in from and how can I stop it?>>
Not sure about left thigh but I had it on the right leg. Turned out to be a
leak around the wiper arm. Even though I had a gasket I added some silicone
where the wiper arm goes through the shroud and that solved the problem.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 22:18:28 -0500
Subject: Driving in the rain (long)
One could understand that after spending a ton of money (and probably just
as much time ) restoring your classic healey you wouldn't want to see it
get wet. We labour over our cars cleaning and waxing every crevis as if
there were bad germs hiding out waiting to jump at any moment. What does one
do every time you wash your car? Is it not the same deal ? You still wash
every crevis even if your car sat for two months without ever seeing one
mile of rolling action.
I will at some point restore my BJ8 to extreme concours standards.Why?
because I can, Its what I do for a living. I like to tell my customers have
the car restored to the best of your budgets abilities, and enjoy the
daylights out of it. When the car was bought new did the owner buy it for
preservation or as a means of transportation and pleasure?.
One can easily keep after the cleaning of dirt and mud, most of these cars
lasted over the decades without the kind of love and affection we give them
nowadays. Also the materials and paints of modern manufacture surely outlast
what was technology of days gone by.
Besides, think of what a fresh smell it is.Top is down after rain stops,(
some never put it up ! ) motoring along smelling the trees and all natures
fragrences.Ahh wish I could do it now.
Too bad its winter and car not ready yet. See I have the shoemakers
syndrome , work on everybody elses and no time to work on my own cars !
sorry for length, winter blues I guess, just shovelled twenty or so inches
of the white stuff off my BJ8 (no room in shop yet) DRIVE EM AND ENJOY
THEM Carroll Top Down Restorations
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 22:39:00 EST
Subject: Re: Concours Thread
In a message dated 1/7/01 8:11:40 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca writes:
> strive to experience what a new fresh tight
>
I consider myself fortunate to have had the joy of those experiences with my
BN-4 and BT-7. In each case I was the original owner. I traded the BN-4 when
I purchased the BT-7 in January 1960. I still have it.
In the '60s I was very interested in racing and was fortunate enough to get
most all of the SCCA production approved race options available from The
British Motor Corp./ Hambro Inc. and Ship & Shore Motors. Triple 2" SU carbs,
rear disc brakes, limited slip differential, larger alloy sump (from
V.W.Derrington), etc.
Unfortunately, when this car is restored it will most likely be as a period
racer as I last drove it. My grandson has already spoken for it.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 21:35:41 -0800
Subject: Healeys in the rain
Listers: I think I had a 'senior moment' last night (late) when I responded
to Gary's message about it raining on the tour to Vancouver Island. I said
that it rained at Ocean Shores during last year's event. After I posted it,
my mind (?) went back to the event and I began to recall the weather
conditions more clearly. (Fade to scene of Ocean Shores)
It was not raining during the rally nor during the autocross. What I seemed
to recall was that my car cover was always wet when I took it off the car, the
outdoor BBQ was moved indoors due to a FORECAST of rain, a move that caused
the sun to come out, and I had to chamois water off of my car DURING the car
show. But rain?? Nah! Maybe not AT Ocean Shores. I remember it being
rather cold and damp most of the time but I recollect now that I never put the
top up the entire trip. I also remember that upon departure, I did not see
the sun until driving down the Avenue of the Giants (Redwood Highway) in
northern California.
So, if I misspoke and cast aspersions on Ocean Shores, the meet, or any groups
or individuals, I apologize.
But if you want to talk about driving in the rain with the top down, let me
tell you about driving back from Breckenridge in '82 . . . . . . .
Len.
From "Andy" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 20:02:54 -0800
Subject: Re: That annoying drip -- was concours standard
I would say that the drip meets all the concours requirments! Drip is as
drip was when new!
I guess that may depend on year.
Andy King
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2001 5:05 PM
Subject: That annoying drip -- was concours standard
>
> In a message dated 1/7/01 12:06:05 PM, MBran89793@aol.com writes:
>
> << The only
> annoyance is a slight drip on my left thigh. >>
>
> Don't you just hate it when it does that? I know it's collecting in the
> tray/bracket for the windshield washer -- seems sort of ironic, that --
and
> then when I turn a corner it dumps the whole thing. But where is the
water
> coming in from and how can I stop it?
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From robert hughes <dhugh at mail.tscnet.com>
Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 00:21:52 -0800
Subject: Fogged gauges
Well, Saturday was dry, sunny and not too cold - not a typical
January day in Washington state. So we took the Healey out for a
drive. Towards the end, my wife pointed out that the glass on
the gas gauge, tach, and speedometer was fogged up on the inside.
This has happened before with the gas gauge and it cleared up after
driving a while. Does anyone have any idea what's happening here?
The car hasn't been driven for a couple of months, so maybe a
little moisture got into the gauges and condensed on the cold
glass?
Robert Hughes
65 BJ8
From J & L Armour <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 23:05:42 +0100
Subject: Re: Side shift gearbox
Andrew,
no one seems interested in your problem,then I guess most of our
U.S. listers will not have had the exposure to Austin and Morris sedans
that we in Australia and New Zealand have had. I have had a 100/6 since
1966 and have had cause to dismantle numerous sedans to repair the two
Sixes I have owned at a time when I had no funds and even if I had money
spares were most difficult to procure.Therefore I always looked into
farmer Brown's paddock or shed for the next set of spares.Removing a
gearbox from a car with four flat tyres in a paddock is not easy with a
one ton hydraulic jack
The following are sources;
Morris Issis and Marshall
Austin A90,A95,A105
Austin Westminister
Wolsley 110
The cluster gears ALL have a different ratio constant mesh gear set
to that of the Healey therefore the overall ratio of 1,2 & 3 are
different.Some of the cluster gears have the same number of teeth for
1,2 & 3 and may be mixed with a Healey set on the output shaft if
required. Other cluster gears have a different number of teeth on 3rd
and can only be mated with the sedan set. If you have overdrive then you
need to transfer all gears onto the correct output shaft.
These sedan boxes provide a good source of washers,nuts etc.The
cases are the same and some bellhousings(others have starter motors on
opposite side) The side covers are different for column change
In the case of the different 3rd gear (lower ratio) you have the
advantage of a wider space to use 3rd overdrive and then change diff.
ratio up one to restore 1,2 & 3 to near the originals
Often the sedans have had an easier life,but then the materials are
still 1950-60 quality.Modern repair techniques fitting a new gear to an
damaged cluster may be better if done correctly
Before removing the gearbox in the field you must make the decision
to buy and remove the motor also because after the hernia and
confronting spiders and snakes under the car you are unlikely to choose
to take the engine and would miss out on all those Lucas bits and
buckets of nuts bolts etc.
Here south of Sydney we have an ex-N.Z. guy who visits N.Z.
regularly and ships B.M.C. stuff back for sale as there is a better
supply over there
Enjoy Joe
From wwcurl at wfubmc.edu (Walton Curl)
Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 07:59:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Concours Thread
Having paid megabucks to have a 58 MGA restored to "concours" and now in
the process of restoring a 60 BT7 myself, I've seen both sides of the
fence. My suggestion-we should all read the Zen of Motorcycle
Maintenance -great book, very tough to read. However, it certainly
explores the difference in the way we approach our cars and why some
want to restore to absolute "concours" , others are content with "just
a car that runs" and others want theirs somewhere in between.
--
Walt Curl
60 BT7
58 MGA
66 Jag MKII
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 07:50:19 -0600
Subject: Re: Fogged gauges
robert hughes wrote:
> Towards the end, my wife pointed out that the glass on
> the gas gauge, tach, and speedometer was fogged up on the inside.
> This has happened before with the gas gauge and it cleared up after
> driving a while. Does anyone have any idea what's happening here?
> The car hasn't been driven for a couple of months, so maybe a
> little moisture got into the gauges and condensed on the cold
> glass?
>
> Robert Hughes
> 65 BJ8
I think you answered your own question, Robert. I have had two BJ8's
and each did it under the circumstances you mentioned.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 08:58:57 EST
Subject: Re: That annoying drip --As per Donald Healey
Possibly the best story and explanation of the 'drip' is the following.
Back about 1986, Donald stayed at my Connecticut home before returning to
England. He had just finished Conclave and his tour of the West Coast and he
wanted to change his return flight plans, so we went to a local travel agent
and made the arrangements. It being a beautiful day, we took the BJ8 with the
top down. In the midst of the plans, a dark cloud came by and I went out and
put up the top. Shortly we got in the car to head home. As soon as the car
moved forward, both our knees got soaked from water up under the dash. I
stopped, turned and looked at DMH and asked him about it. He just replied
that he had retired long before they built the BJ8 and it was Geoff's fault.
Rudy Streng, now in NC
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 08:18:46 -0600
Subject: RE: Concours-Standard
Ron,
Thanks for trying to bring back some sanity to the group...It sounds
like it was a great time, and that's what it should be all about.. whether
the car is concours or not.. It's all in how you enjoy it...
Steve
'61 BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Schonscheck [mailto:schonny@y2consult.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 5:15 PM
To: Editorgary@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
My two cents worth doesn't hold a candle to the rest but I feel so good I
just have to share. Living at 9000' feet in Colorado makes the season
unusually short due to the weather and the fact that our driveway is steeply
inclined but for some reason this morning as I was getting ready to set off
for my granddaughter's 5th birthday party, being held at a bowling alley
down in Denver, about 50 miles east I decided to try and start the Healey.
Now it hasn't been started for about 3 months so I didn't expect it to start
but low and behold after cranking only about 20 or 30 seconds it sprang to
life. Well I let it warm up for a while but still didn't think I would get
it out as the top had been left down under the car cover and it fits so
tight that you can get it latched when it is good and hot out but not when
its cold. Well after grunting and groaning for about 30 minutes darned if I
didn't get it latched! Well with the snow and ice cover on the drive I
still wasn't planning to try to get it out but I thought what the heck, and
I would give it one try. You won't believe it but it made it all the way up
the drive. Well now there was no stopping me because it is downhill all the
way to Denver. Off I went and to get to the end of the story "WHAT a TRIP".
After partying for a couple of hours and stuffing myself with pizza and
birthday cake I came out of the bowling alley and it was beautiful, near 70
degrees. In I hopped and dropped the top and away I went and what a
glorious ride back up into the mountains. I don't think the car has ever
run this well. Just got home and had to share this experience. I was
getting tired of the car but now I am renewed. Sorry to waste bandwidth
Happy New Years to all.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 1:08 PM
Subject: Re: Concours-Standard
>
> In a message dated 1/4/01 1:04:00 PM, lmairs@cox.rr.com writes:
>
> << Just curious, but I wonder how many of the oft-driven Concours Healey's
are
> driven in the rain. For that matter, how many of any Healey's are driven
in
> the rain.
>
> Not mine I confess... >>
>
> I had the pleasure of driving with four other concours-standard Healey
owners
> from Ocean Shores, Washington, to Vancouver Island this summer. It rained
> continuously and hard the entire day (maybe that's why they called the
area
> we chose to drive through a "rain forest"). Having left my (Gold Level)
> concours car on Vancouver Island, my wife and I came back up a month later
> and drove it from Victoria to San Francisco (1100 miles) with rain off and
on
> the first day. Rain is not a factor in determining whether or not we
drive
> the car. Oh, by the way, it isn't a nasty boy, but it did get trophies
not
> only in the popular choice show, but also in both the high-speed run and
> autocross -- the only car I believe that got trophies in both speed runs.
> Incidentally, highest speed of day in an unmodified Healey was scored by a
> car that was judged gold the day before, and drove with us in the rain the
> day after!
>
> In their original form or modified, sitting still, at speed, or on tour,
> Healeys are absolutely bloody marvelous.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 09:13:28 -0600
Subject: Banged knuckles and dirty fingers...
Happy new year everyone..
I had a fun time over the past weekend, just thought I'd share.. I also have
a couple of questions for the group, so don't hang up.. ;-)
I decided, since there is snow on the ground and the Eagles were eliminated
from the play-offs on the first play of the game, that I would listen to the
game in the garage and work on the Healey.. I started by removing and
reversing the anti-sway bar brackets, now they are on the correct side..
this went so well that step 2 was to replace my clutch slave cylinder hose.
I noticed that there is a braided ground wire from the frame to the tranny
in the same area, mine had slipped down and was actually rubbing against the
old hose and putting a nice size gash in it. So I loosened the nut moved
the wire and retightened the nut this got it out of the way and now the
clearance for the hose is fine. The new hose is now in place, lets bleed
the system and maybe go for a spin... NOT.. The bleed screw was pretty
rounded so I had to remove the interior to get it from the top.. Okay, the
new bleed screw is in and works fine.. but.. the clutch pedal is about 3
inches higher that the brake pedal... hmmmm.. Climb up under the dash, not
real easy for a 230lb man, hey, why is the rubber dust seal on the clutch
master cylinder coming off.. oh look, the plunger is actually moving past
the circlip and probably sucking air into the system. Better fix that,
let's see what the Haynes manual says...Oh.. the bush in the pedal assembly
may need to be replaced.. remove six bolts from bulkhead to get pedals out..
okay no problem... geezzz my back hurts..;-) they failed.. to say 4 of the
bolts are holding the clutch and brake master cylinders in place. So now I
have my pedal assembly in hand and really can't see anything wrong with it..
Did the manual lie?? There are 2 bushes in the assembly, but I was
expecting to see a stop of some sort. Are the circlips on the 2 cylinders
the only stops? or do these bushes really work. Does anybody have a clue
about this? I hate the thought of putting the assembly back in without
fixing something..
Also, when I finally get the above done.. I'm thinking of re-routing my
exhaust from going out the back to exiting in front of the rear wheel. Has
anybody done this? Would the noise or the fumes make the car uncomfortable?
I like the look of the exhaust located there as opposed to running a few
inches off the ground and exiting out the back.... TIA
Steve
61 BN7
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 10:43:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Driving in the rain (long)
> One could understand that after spending a ton of money (and probably just
> as much time ) restoring your classic healey you wouldn't want to see it
> get wet. We labour over our cars cleaning and waxing every crevis as if
> there were bad germs hiding out waiting to jump at any moment. What does
one
> do every time you wash your car? Is it not the same deal ?
Hell, no. When I wash my precious baby I put garbage bags over the wheels
to keep the chromed spokes dry!!! I'd get arrested for littering if I dried
to drive in the rain that way.
---
Lee Mairs
'62 Mk II Tri-carb
---
If a woman has to choose between catching a fly ball and saving an infant's
life,
she will choose to save the infant's life without even considering if there
are
men on base.
-- Dave Barry
From "John Benkovic" <jjbank at sprintmail.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 11:24:38 -0500
Subject: concours standard
I am new to the list (approximately 3 months) . This is the first comment I
have made. We must remember, It is our gennerations that were alive (40 year
and older) when the healeys were made. It is for the future generations that
the cars restored to concourse standards are most valuable. In the year 2050
who will be around who remembers what a Healey looked like when it came off
the production line. The concourse cars preserve and maximize the value of our
cars for the future. This talk about someone being put down because he
spending money to have his car restored instead of doing it himself. Come on
now, we all have God given talents and as long as we love the marquee so what.
We are united for a common good:To preserve the Austin Healey.
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 11:34:11 EST
Subject: Re: concours standard
In a message dated 1/8/01 11:23:04 AM Eastern Standard Time,
jjbank@sprintmail.com writes:
> This talk about someone being put down because he
> spending money to have his car restored instead of doing it himself. Come on
>
Amen to that, and it is interesting that while I have never read a
disparaging comment of one who has done his own work made by someone who has
engaged a professional restorer, it seems that it has been those who are
gifted with mechanical, etc. skills who have felt the need to "dis" the guy
who can make $$ better than shoot a nice paint job, etc. I am envious of
anyone who can do anything well, but envy and jealousy are poles apart.
Happy New Year to all--Michael Oritt
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 12:03:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Fogged gauges
Happens any time its cool, usually at nite, on my Bug and Etype.
It's a Brit thing.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: robert hughes <dhugh@mail.tscnet.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: January 8, 2001 3:21 AM
Subject: Fogged gauges
>
> Well, Saturday was dry, sunny and not too cold - not a typical
> January day in Washington state. So we took the Healey out for
a
> drive. Towards the end, my wife pointed out that the glass on
> the gas gauge, tach, and speedometer was fogged up on the
inside.
> This has happened before with the gas gauge and it cleared up
after
> driving a while. Does anyone have any idea what's happening
here?
> The car hasn't been driven for a couple of months, so maybe a
> little moisture got into the gauges and condensed on the cold
> glass?
>
> Robert Hughes
> 65 BJ8
From "George Castleberry" <leavcast at infomagic.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 10:03:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Banged knuckles and dirty fingers...
This was discussed thoroughly just a few weeks ago. Check the list archives
for tons of opinions: http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=healeys
George
BN1-L/157155
----- Original Message -----
From: Kocik, Stephen W <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 8:13 AM
Subject: Banged knuckles and dirty fingers...
>
> Happy new year everyone..
> I had a fun time over the past weekend, just thought I'd share.. I also
have
> a couple of questions for the group, so don't hang up.. ;-)
>
> Also, when I finally get the above done.. I'm thinking of re-routing my
> exhaust from going out the back to exiting in front of the rear wheel.
Has
> anybody done this? Would the noise or the fumes make the car
uncomfortable?
> I like the look of the exhaust located there as opposed to running a few
> inches off the ground and exiting out the back.... TIA
>
> Steve
> 61 BN7
From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 12:22:42 EST
Subject: Re: Driving in the Rain
In St.Paul I commuted for 19 years, 10 miles each way, in a '65 BJ8, top
down, tonneau cover used all year. I got my hair wet, on the average, twice a
year.
If you can imagine, I needed to pass no stop lights and only two
(rolling) stop signs on my commute. Try that today in any metro area.
Being caught in a BN1 with windshield down, at night, is a totally
different thing.
Incidentally, I have, for sale, an unfinished BT7 and a finished '67 BJ8 on
display at the Ellingson Motor Museum in St.Paul; web page:
'ellingsoncar.com' Bill Huck
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 18:59:16 -0000
Subject: WEB Site updated
Listers, I have updated my WEB Site and added a Cars for sale section.
Regards
David
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 14:56:40 EST
Subject: This summer's events
I'd appreciate learning the dates for:
1. Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix
2. Conclave 2001
TIA--Michael Oritt
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 11:50:18 -0800
Subject: Re: Fogged gauges
My gas gauge does the same but temp/oil never....interesting. I gave up
trying to figure it out...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec@globalserve.net>
To: "robert hughes" <dhugh@mail.tscnet.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 9:03 AM
Subject: Re: Fogged gauges
>
> Happens any time its cool, usually at nite, on my Bug and Etype.
>
> It's a Brit thing.
>
> Mike L.
> 60A,67E,59Bug
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: robert hughes <dhugh@mail.tscnet.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: January 8, 2001 3:21 AM
> Subject: Fogged gauges
>
>
> >
> > Well, Saturday was dry, sunny and not too cold - not a typical
> > January day in Washington state. So we took the Healey out for
> a
> > drive. Towards the end, my wife pointed out that the glass on
> > the gas gauge, tach, and speedometer was fogged up on the
> inside.
> > This has happened before with the gas gauge and it cleared up
> after
> > driving a while. Does anyone have any idea what's happening
> here?
> > The car hasn't been driven for a couple of months, so maybe a
> > little moisture got into the gauges and condensed on the cold
> > glass?
> >
> > Robert Hughes
> > 65 BJ8
From "AH102 at home.com" <ah102@home.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 16:47:03 -0500
Subject: Re: This summer's events
Michael: Pittsburgh Vintage Gran Prix....July 21 and 22 (see you there)
Conclave 2001.....July 8 through July 13
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 2:56 PM
Subject: This summer's events
>
> I'd appreciate learning the dates for:
>
> 1. Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix
> 2. Conclave 2001
>
> TIA--Michael Oritt
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 14:21:54 -0800
Subject: Re: Fogged gauges
I'll bet that it has something to do with engine heat (hot oil? hot
ether? hot pipes?) keeping the foggy dew out of the dual gauge. If
you have the dash lights on, does that make any difference on the
other gauges' fog? Those bulbs are outside the gauges (at least on
my BJ7) but might be warm enough to make a difference.
-Roland
On Mon, 8 Jan 2001 11:50:18 -0800, "Neil Trelenberg"
<neilberg@telus.net> wrote:
::
:: My gas gauge does the same but temp/oil never....interesting. I gave up
:: trying to figure it out...Neil
::
:: ----- Original Message -----
:: > From: robert hughes <dhugh@mail.tscnet.com>
:: > > Well, Saturday was dry, sunny and not too cold - not a typical
:: > > January day in Washington state. So we took the Healey out for
:: > a
:: > > drive. Towards the end, my wife pointed out that the glass on
:: > > the gas gauge, tach, and speedometer was fogged up on the
:: > inside.
:: > > This has happened before with the gas gauge and it cleared up
:: > after
:: > > driving a while. Does anyone have any idea what's happening
:: > here?
:: > > Robert Hughes
:: > > 65 BJ8
From Anders Roil <aroil at sensewave.com>
Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 23:49:51 +0100
Subject: Re: Out in the snow on 1st of January
Hello Skip
Nice to hear about your experience in Oslo.
The train is still running, but the coaches is no longer of wood, and yes the
road is
as twisty as the tram, and yes it's very fun to drive. My "Lim-slip" Healey
goes more
sideways than straight forward on these roads.
My club, Norsk Sportsvogn klubb, often take a ride of these roads just for fun.
It's
nothing as fun as driving a Healey up these tight hearpin roads.
It's a sleding-hill "road" in the same area called "The cork screw". This was
use as a
race track in th 1920's. Must have been quite fun.
Best regards
Anders
skip wrote:
> In 1980 I was traveling around Europe via train. I stayed in Oslo at a Bed
>and
> Breakfast near Holmenkollen. The people who ran the Bed and Breakfast were
> extremely nice and hospitable towards me... so much so that when they learned
>that
> I was going to Bremen and then back to Oslo a few days hence, they insisted
>that I
> return and use their house on my return trip. The catch was they were going
>to
> be out of town. So, they showed me where they hid the key to their house, and
> just told me to settle in for the night on my own, but they would be there in
>the
> morning after I arrived.
>
> I have a special memory of how nice those folks were, and how well they
>treated
> me. I also have a memory of the wonderful wooden tram that climbed the
>mountain
> to their house from Oslo. I used the tram to get around, and used it to go
>to
> the ski jump area as well as to the town.
>
> Is that tram still in service?... As I recall, the roadway was rather twisty
>and
> steep. It seemed like it might be an ideal Healey road to drive. However,
>in the
> snow I imagine it must be a little sporty. Did you all have any thrills
>driving
> your cars up to the ski-jump area?
>
> -Skip-
>
> Anders Roil wrote:
>
> > Hello Peter
> >
> > Thanks for your reply.
> >
> > The cars are Fiat Barchettas (I'm not sure about the spelling).
> >
> > The picture is from Frognerseteren resturant , close to the Skijumparena at
> > Holmenkollen in Oslo, some some 15 - 20 min. driving from downtown.
> >
> > Anders
> >
> > Peter Schauss wrote:
> >
> > > Anders,
> > >
> > > Great pictures. What make are the two modern cars (one red,
> > > one silver) in the upper left hand picture?
> > >
> > > Also, where was the picture in the middle of the bottom row
> > > taken?
> > >
> > > Peter Schauss
> > > Long Island, NY
> > > 1980 MGB
> > > 1963 BJ7
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Anders Roil
> > > Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 2:49 AM
> > > To: JH67HEALEY@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: Out in the snow on 1st of January
> > >
> > > The 1st of January the Norwegian "Alltheyeararound"-club for open cars had
> > > it's
> > > annual meeting. As a "Vorespiel" to this event, The Norwegian Sportscar
>club
> > > (www.sportsvogn.no) had a barbecue -party in my garden.
> > >
> > > Weather-conditions:?
> > > - Lots of snow
> > > - Minus 10 degrees Celsius (= 14 degrees Fahrenheit
> > >
> > > Take a look at the pictures at,
> > > http://www.sportsvogn.no/artikler/helaarsklubben2001.htm. The text is in
> > > Norwegian, but pictures in global. (The read Healey is mine)
> > >
> > > I wish you all a very nice Healey year in 2001
> > >
> > > Best Regards
> > > Anders Roil
> > >
> > > http://home.sol.no/~anroil/
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 15:00:16 -0800
Subject: Re: Fogged gauges
I thought about the dash lights as well but it happens with them off also. I
like the idea of hot oil.keeping things warm....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@cts.com>
To: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 2:21 PM
Subject: Re: Fogged gauges
I'll bet that it has something to do with engine heat (hot oil? hot
ether? hot pipes?) keeping the foggy dew out of the dual gauge. If
you have the dash lights on, does that make any difference on the
other gauges' fog? Those bulbs are outside the gauges (at least on
my BJ7) but might be warm enough to make a difference.
-Roland
On Mon, 8 Jan 2001 11:50:18 -0800, "Neil Trelenberg"
<neilberg@telus.net> wrote:
::
:: My gas gauge does the same but temp/oil never....interesting. I gave up
:: trying to figure it out...Neil
::
:: ----- Original Message -----
:: > From: robert hughes <dhugh@mail.tscnet.com>
:: > > Well, Saturday was dry, sunny and not too cold - not a typical
:: > > January day in Washington state. So we took the Healey out for
:: > a
:: > > drive. Towards the end, my wife pointed out that the glass on
:: > > the gas gauge, tach, and speedometer was fogged up on the
:: > inside.
:: > > This has happened before with the gas gauge and it cleared up
:: > after
:: > > driving a while. Does anyone have any idea what's happening
:: > here?
:: > > Robert Hughes
:: > > 65 BJ8
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 10:05:00 +1100
Subject: Re: Fogged gauges
G'day
Everyone has missed the obvious.
It is of course the humid smoke from the car's electrics that is trying to
escape after being locked up for so long. There is something to be said
about
the effectiveness of British glass in keeping errant smoke at bay.
My Japanese watch does the same when it's humid.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
>>> Roland Wilhelmy 9/01/01 9:21:54 >>>
I'll bet that it has something to do with engine heat (hot oil? hot
ether? hot pipes?) keeping the foggy dew out of the dual gauge. If
you have the dash lights on, does that make any difference on the
other gauges' fog? Those bulbs are outside the gauges (at least on
my BJ7) but might be warm enough to make a difference.
-Roland
On Mon, 8 Jan 2001 11:50:18 -0800, "Neil Trelenberg"
<neilberg@telus.net> wrote:
::
:: My gas gauge does the same but temp/oil never....interesting. I gave up
:: trying to figure it out...Neil
::
:: ----- Original Message -----
:: > From: robert hughes <dhugh@mail.tscnet.com>
:: > > Well, Saturday was dry, sunny and not too cold - not a typical
:: > > January day in Washington state. So we took the Healey out for
:: > a
:: > > drive. Towards the end, my wife pointed out that the glass on
:: > > the gas gauge, tach, and speedometer was fogged up on the
:: > inside.
:: > > This has happened before with the gas gauge and it cleared up
:: > after
:: > > driving a while. Does anyone have any idea what's happening
:: > here?
:: > > Robert Hughes
:: > > 65 BJ8
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 18:19:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Fogged gauges
I get the same with Fuel only. Even changed gauges and got the same
thing.
Ed A
>
>I'll bet that it has something to do with engine heat (hot oil? hot
>ether? hot pipes?) keeping the foggy dew out of the dual gauge. If
>you have the dash lights on, does that make any difference on the
>other gauges' fog? Those bulbs are outside the gauges (at least on
>my BJ7) but might be warm enough to make a difference.
>
>-Roland
>
>On Mon, 8 Jan 2001 11:50:18 -0800, "Neil Trelenberg"
><neilberg@telus.net> wrote:
>
>::
>:: My gas gauge does the same but temp/oil never....interesting. I
gave up
>:: trying to figure it out...Neil
From GNrite at aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 18:51:51 EST
Subject: Looking for Big Healey
Hi
New to the list, but am seriously looking for a Mk I with hardtop. Does not
have to be concours, would like nice driver. I'm in Oregon. Hope to hear
soon.
Glen
503-538-8610
503-538-6198 fa x
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 19:00:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Fogged gauges
Hi, Robert --
My fuel gauge lens has always partially fogged after the car has warmed up.
Years ago, I tried to fix that by taking the lens off and drying it out. In
the process, I broke the extremely fine wire that is inside the gauge,
rendering it useless. After sending it off for professional repair and
reinstalling it.....it still partially fogs after the car has warmed up. I
think it is one of those Healey peculiarities that I have decided to live
with.
The gauge always clears itself eventually.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: robert hughes <dhugh@mail.tscnet.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, January 08, 2001 3:50 AM
Subject: Fogged gauges
>
>Well, Saturday was dry, sunny and not too cold - not a typical
>January day in Washington state. So we took the Healey out for a
>drive. Towards the end, my wife pointed out that the glass on
>the gas gauge, tach, and speedometer was fogged up on the inside.
>This has happened before with the gas gauge and it cleared up after
>driving a while. Does anyone have any idea what's happening here?
>The car hasn't been driven for a couple of months, so maybe a
>little moisture got into the gauges and condensed on the cold
>glass?
>
>Robert Hughes
>65 BJ8
From Tomsimkins at aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 20:07:27 EST
Subject: Healey Parts
Hello all!
I'm fairly new to the list as I just recently got my first Healey. Along with
the car, I also acquired quite a few extra parts. Actually too many parts to
fit in my garage. So, for the past few months, I've been renting storage for
much of them while I sort out what I need. Well, I'm at a point where I think
I can get rid of a bunch of it without hurting myself too badly when I
finally start reassembly of the car.
I've got 3 motors - 2 of them 29D serial nos, & 1 which has no tag but it
does have an extra electric sensor on the front of the head by the thermostat
that the other two don't have - if that helps. Can't guarantee that they run,
but they should at least be rebuildable. Also have trannys, radiators, and
much more. Before putting this stuff on e-bay, I thought I'd offer it to the
group. If anybody's interested, please contact me off the list. I'm in the
Fort Wayne, In area.
Tom
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 22:14:42 EST
Subject: Re: Fogged gauges
In a message dated 1/8/01 3:23:31 AM Eastern Standard Time,
dhugh@mail.tscnet.com writes:
> This has happened before with the gas gauge and it cleared up after
>
It appears the more we learn about our LBC (Healeys in particular) quirks the
more they tend to be the same.
I've had this same thing happen with the fuel gauge on my BJ-8, "Blackie" for
years, but I never really gave much thought the fact that my Healey shared
the "fogged gauge" syndrome with others.
Now that I know I not by myself, I won't lose any sleep over this little
quirk any more.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 23:29:33 EST
Subject: Re: Fogged gauges
My fuel gauge fogs up also. Twenty years ago when I was a poor college kid I
stuck a non operative MGB fuel gauge in the BJ8 just to fill the hole in the
dash. It's still there (someday I'll get around to fixing it).
So just for the record a non-operative MGB fuel gauge in a Healey will fog up
also.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
Visit my Bluegrass Austin Healey Club site at bluegrassclub.com
And visit my British Sports Car Club of KY site at britishsportscarclub.com.
From "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 20:53:47 -0800
Subject: Original vs. Repro 100-M Cold Air Box
I am wondering if anybody would be so kind as to share with me any discovered
differences between the original 100-M cold air boxes and the reproductions.
Does anybody know?
Thanks in advance,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 23:00:28 -0600
Subject: Re: Fogged gauges
Jim
Considering what the web master of the Healey Adventure Site has wanted for the
last two Christmases running - could the fog be related to this <grin>?
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Jwhlyadv@aol.com wrote:
> My fuel gauge fogs up also. Twenty years ago when I was a poor college kid I
> stuck a non operative MGB fuel gauge in the BJ8 just to fill the hole in the
> dash. It's still there (someday I'll get around to fixing it).
>
> So just for the record a non-operative MGB fuel gauge in a Healey will fog up
> also.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
> Visit my Bluegrass Austin Healey Club site at bluegrassclub.com
> And visit my British Sports Car Club of KY site at britishsportscarclub.com.
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 21:04:11 -0800
Subject: Re: Fogged gauges
I've had three convertibles in my 40+ years of driving: a '56 Thunderbird, the
'63 BJ7 and the '69 Karmann-Ghia. All of their gauges that steamed up from time
to time.
But then, so do my glasses, so maybe it has to do with the driver's breath.
Regards,
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
From "Andy" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 22:35:11 -0800
Subject: Re: Original vs. Repro 100-M Cold Air Box
When installed you can't tell, however on the original, the reinforcing
gusset plates where the box bolts up to the carbs, the plates are attached
with hammered flush rivets. on the aftermarket they are welded. I would also
mention my original never had a Lemans tag attached and I know at the very
least it was on the car as far back as 1960. The engine hood was not
louvered so I have always assumed it was a Kit. hope this helps some. I am
no expert and have never even owned a concours standards book or even done
researched on my Healey so I would instantly bow to the experts. If you are
wondering there is a part number stamped on the front face of the cam shaft
that will designate a factory LM cam and not just a regrind copy. I thought
about taking mind out to save it, and install something else to drive around
on. But as with many Healeys it has not run in many many years so there is
not much wear going on.
Andy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: "healeys list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 8:53 PM
Subject: Original vs. Repro 100-M Cold Air Box
>
> I am wondering if anybody would be so kind as to share with me any
discovered
> differences between the original 100-M cold air boxes and the
reproductions.
> Does anybody know?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jim LeBlanc
> 1956 100-M
From robert hughes <dhugh at mail.tscnet.com>
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 01:45:33 -0800
Subject: Fogged gauges: it's a LBC thang...
Thanks all who responded to my question about my fogged
gauges. It looks like what we have here is a "normal"
Austin Healey function and we should be trying to figure
out what causes it so that those Healeys that don't have it
can be fixed so that they have the proper fogged gauges.
Might even be a concourse consideration (1 point deduction
for non-fogged gauges).
Thanks again.
Robert Hughes
1965 BJ8
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 05:18:56 -0600
Subject: Re: concours standard
Been out pedeling my Rock.... just got back to a bazillion E-mails... ( one
of my favorite things to look forward to)
Rather then Bad mouth Concours guys.... let me tell you where I find myself
in agreement with you.
First even if you own a Healey and want it to be a Driver... with
Modifications to suit your taste.... ( Flames....Digital Fuel injection...
Mag's .... Long hair shag carpet in Harvest gold ) I think you should own
the Standards book for your car.... it's just a great source of
information.... some of which just isn't avalible anywhere else.
And Rich... Here is where I absolutely agree the Most... YOU DRIVE THE THING
WHEN YOUR DONE... it doesn't sit. How you get it to the events is up to
you.... been to many a trailer show where they had some very nice cars show
up.... Who does the work.... well again it's about what interests you.
Quick Story.... Will Handzel is the Writer that who the Feature Article on
my Car in Hot Rod Magazine ( september 2000 pg. 92-94) John Hunt was going
to pick him up and let him drive his Healey to Maxton and we were chatting
about the reason John could do that with a concours car.... how the Healey
Concours guys are a bit different.... Will was absolutely amazed and Very
impressed.... he talked about doing a Corvette to Bloomington Gold level...
and getting gigged for a piece of Towel that had gotten caught in the trim
work while they did the final wipe down... In other words... when it comes
to Anal retentive.... Trust me there are levels Way above Healey concours...
And folks outside looking in might even find our standards VERY
refreshing....
End of the day.... since this is about Personal choice.. I sure won't look
down my nose at a guy who brings a Rat Healey to an event.... Even if he
chose the Alvacado Green shag over the Harvest Gold....( which is much
better in 2" rather then that Cheap 1" stuff )
Keith ( one of the 13 folks in the State of Alabama that can Read and
write....) Spelling is optional!!!
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <jjbank@sprintmail.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 10:34 AM
Subject: Re: concours standard
>
> In a message dated 1/8/01 11:23:04 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> jjbank@sprintmail.com writes:
>
>
> > This talk about someone being put down because he
> > spending money to have his car restored instead of doing it himself.
Come on
> >
>
> Amen to that, and it is interesting that while I have never read a
> disparaging comment of one who has done his own work made by someone who
has
> engaged a professional restorer, it seems that it has been those who are
> gifted with mechanical, etc. skills who have felt the need to "dis" the
guy
> who can make $$ better than shoot a nice paint job, etc. I am envious of
> anyone who can do anything well, but envy and jealousy are poles apart.
>
> Happy New Year to all--Michael Oritt
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 06:40:54 EST
Subject: Re: concours standard
In a message dated 1/9/01 6:18:33 AM Eastern Standard Time, kturk@ala.net
writes:
<< Who does the work.... well again it's about what interests you. >>
Absolutely Keith. I never had any particular interest in concours till I hd
the opportunity to assist Rich Chrysler in judging at last Conclave and then
came to appreciate the deal a lot more. But bottom line--owning and driving
(or not) a Healey is an optional excercise and all of us should have the
right to do that in a manner that pleases us without excessive judgment from
the others. I personally delight in driving several hundred miles to a
static show and knocking off some of the trailer queens that never get their
tires dirty, but that's me. Some of the owners of those cars get off on
loading them up and towing them to the same show, win or lose. Go figure.....
Best to all---Michael Oritt
From Biloselhir at aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 08:33:15 EST
Subject: Test(delete)
test only.
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 09:36:45 -0500
Subject: Smooth Line Hardtops
I am thinking about adding a hardtop for my 60 3000. Will give me
additional driving days.
Any recommendations about Smooth Line hardtops or any other recommendations?
Thanks, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
From Biloselhir at aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 09:39:14 EST
Subject: Recent Purchase
Have just purchased my first Healey. It is a 100 6 , BN4, but is titled as
a 1960. The Serial number is BN4L075759. Has been in dry storage since
1978, I was told that the late 59's were titled '60, but I think this
serial # is not that late? Can anyone shed some light on this?
From "Bob Judd" <bobjudd at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 8:19:17 -0800
Subject: Rear axel drool
Funny, I thought, seeing a small puddle of oil underneath
the backing plate of my BN2. I'm replacing the linings and cylinders and
the oil leaking out of the axel makes me unsure about what to do
next.
Should I, 1) Rip open my stomach because if I
draw out the rear axel to replace the little paper gasket, I'll never get
the axel back in again. Or 2) just go ahead and do it. And put
in a little blue gasket goo when I put in the new gasket. Or 3)
Forget about it because the rear axels on BN2s always leak when you unbolt
the rear hub. And it'll all be ok when you bolt it back together
again.
Thanks for your help. Bob
Judd
----- Original Message -----
From:
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: 1/9/2001 6:43:36 AM
Subject: Recent Purchase
Have just purchased my first Healey. It is a 100 6 , BN4, but is
titled as
a 1960. The Serial number is
BN4L075759. Has been in dry storage since
1978, I was told that the late 59's were titled '60, but I
think this
serial # is not that late? Can anyone shed some light
on this?
--- bobjudd@earthlink.net
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 09:10:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Fogged gauges
Steve hit the nail on the head. When I had my fuel gauge rebuilt by MO-MA,
I asked about the fogging, since it still happened after the rebuild. They
told me it's the heat from the wire that causes the condensation to
form/reform. For the record, my other gauges, including oil/temp do not fog.
----------------------
At 04:00 PM 1/10/2001, you wrote:
>Hi, Robert --
>My fuel gauge lens has always partially fogged after the car has warmed up.
>Years ago, I tried to fix that by taking the lens off and drying it out. In
>the process, I broke the extremely fine wire that is inside the gauge,
>rendering it useless. After sending it off for professional repair and
>reinstalling it.....it still partially fogs after the car has warmed up. I
>think it is one of those Healey peculiarities that I have decided to live
>with.
>The gauge always clears itself eventually.
>
>Happy Healeying!
>
>Steve Byers
>HBJ8L/36666
>Havelock, NC USA
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: robert hughes <dhugh@mail.tscnet.com>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Date: Monday, January 08, 2001 3:50 AM
>Subject: Fogged gauges
>
>
> >
> >Well, Saturday was dry, sunny and not too cold - not a typical
> >January day in Washington state. So we took the Healey out for a
> >drive. Towards the end, my wife pointed out that the glass on
> >the gas gauge, tach, and speedometer was fogged up on the inside.
> >This has happened before with the gas gauge and it cleared up after
> >driving a while. Does anyone have any idea what's happening here?
> >The car hasn't been driven for a couple of months, so maybe a
> >little moisture got into the gauges and condensed on the cold
> >glass?
> >
> >Robert Hughes
> >65 BJ8
From Bill Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 11:56:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Original vs. Repro 100-M Cold Air Box
Jim-
I have one on my car. If I recall, it's all aluminum (aluminium!),
pretty crudely constructed with flush rivets holding it together. One
corner is a bit bashed for clearance but this might not be original. If
you need more details I can go out to the garage and look more closely.
I think the comments I've heard in the past are about how much better the
repro ones look- i. e., TOO good!.
Bill Schmidt
'56 100M (genuine parts, repro alloy bonnet, put on by me)
On Mon, 8 Jan 2001 20:53:47 -0800 "Cory LeBlanc"
<coryleblanc@earthlink.net> writes:
>
>I am wondering if anybody would be so kind as to share with me any
>discovered
>differences between the original 100-M cold air boxes and the
>reproductions.
>Does anybody know?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Jim LeBlanc
>1956 100-M
________________________________________________________________
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 09:18:52 -0800
Subject: Re: Fogged gauges
How about trying RainX AntiFog on the backside of the glass?
Cheers,
John
Bill Katz wrote:
>
> Steve hit the nail on the head. When I had my fuel gauge rebuilt by MO-MA,
> I asked about the fogging, since it still happened after the rebuild. They
> told me it's the heat from the wire that causes the condensation to
> form/reform. For the record, my other gauges, including oil/temp do not fog.
>
> ----------------------
> At 04:00 PM 1/10/2001, you wrote:
>
> >Hi, Robert --
> >My fuel gauge lens has always partially fogged after the car has warmed up.
> >Years ago, I tried to fix that by taking the lens off and drying it out. In
> >the process, I broke the extremely fine wire that is inside the gauge,
> >rendering it useless. After sending it off for professional repair and
> >reinstalling it.....it still partially fogs after the car has warmed up. I
> >think it is one of those Healey peculiarities that I have decided to live
> >with.
> >The gauge always clears itself eventually.
> >
> >Happy Healeying!
> >
> >Steve Byers
> >HBJ8L/36666
> >Havelock, NC USA
> >
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: robert hughes <dhugh@mail.tscnet.com>
> >To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Date: Monday, January 08, 2001 3:50 AM
> >Subject: Fogged gauges
> >
> >
> > >
> > >Well, Saturday was dry, sunny and not too cold - not a typical
> > >January day in Washington state. So we took the Healey out for a
> > >drive. Towards the end, my wife pointed out that the glass on
> > >the gas gauge, tach, and speedometer was fogged up on the inside.
> > >This has happened before with the gas gauge and it cleared up after
> > >driving a while. Does anyone have any idea what's happening here?
> > >The car hasn't been driven for a couple of months, so maybe a
> > >little moisture got into the gauges and condensed on the cold
> > >glass?
> > >
> > >Robert Hughes
> > >65 BJ8
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 12:24:41 EST
Subject: Re: Smooth Line Hardtops
In a message dated 1/9/01 6:40:14 AM, healey27@mindspring.com writes:
<< I am thinking about adding a hardtop for my 60 3000. Will give me
additional driving days.
Any recommendations about Smooth Line hardtops or any other recommendations?
>>
Smoothline folks seem to have their act together -- they advertise with us
and in many of the marque magazines. I haven't seen the style of the Healey
hard top -- will be interesting to compare with the Healey top.
Cheers
Gary
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 09:27:50 -0800
Subject: RE: Rear axel drool
Hi Bob
I don't have any BN2 experience, HOWEVER, I believe that this is one of
those things you should address because the oil will eventually permeate
your rear brakes, and will be a safety hazard. Do you know if the seals
have EVER been replaced? I've done some rear axle switching-around in the
last three years on different types of cars, but the principles are the same
(or someone will surely correct me!) You have a seal, an "O" ring and a
gasket that are the usual suspects. I would replace them all. Further, I
would buy a set for the other side, because by the time you do one side,
you'll be an expert with fresh experience and you might feel like doing the
other side too, and wish you had ordered the parts. Just read the manual
and take your time. You'll get that axle back in. I just disassembled the
rear end on my '66 MG to install a limited slip two weeks ago, and took the
opportunity to rebuild the rear brake cylinders. The axles had to be
wiggled for about four seconds to locate the cage, but they went in, "just
like uptown", as my Grandpa used to say.
Good Luck
Martin
'59 BN7 coming along fine, but I wi$h it was fini$hed
'59 AN5 in stasis, but is appreciating as it just sits there on flat tires
'66 GAN2 with 1275 ripping around town like a car twice its size; people
pretend not to notice
'68 Torino sold to a guy in Virginia- adios you premium sucking pig, go
drain another wallet
'80 Toyota Celica GT, greasy parts hauler and general hack; hopefully I
can't kill it
'00 Mercury Mountaineer, the Wife's car, of course, but the leather smells
nice
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Judd [mailto:bobjudd@earthlink.net]
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 8:19 AM
To: HealeyAuto; Healey List
Subject: Rear axel drool
Funny, I thought, seeing a small puddle of oil underneath
the backing plate of my BN2. I'm replacing the linings and cylinders and
the oil leaking out of the axel makes me unsure about what to do
next.
Should I, 1) Rip open my stomach because if I
draw out the rear axel to replace the little paper gasket, I'll never get
the axel back in again. Or 2) just go ahead and do it. And put
in a little blue gasket goo when I put in the new gasket. Or 3)
Forget about it because the rear axels on BN2s always leak when you unbolt
the rear hub. And it'll all be ok when you bolt it back together
again.
Thanks for your help. Bob
Judd
----- Original Message -----
From:
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: 1/9/2001 6:43:36 AM
Subject: Recent Purchase
Have just purchased my first Healey. It is a 100 6 , BN4, but is
titled as
a 1960. The Serial number is
BN4L075759. Has been in dry storage since
1978, I was told that the late 59's were titled '60, but I
think this
serial # is not that late? Can anyone shed some light
on this?
--- bobjudd@earthlink.net
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 09:37:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Recent Purchase
I have two 3000s that are titled for the year after they were actually
built, including a tri-carb that was built in January, 1962; and is titled
as a 1963. I think the title may refer to when the car was first sold.
Both mine were first sold in California. The 1963 is a "rare"(?) one in
that it has disc wheels and no overdrive. I will bet it sat on the
dealer's lot for a long time before someone bought it.
John Snyder
----------
> From: Biloselhir@aol.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Recent Purchase
> Date: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 6:39 AM
>
>
> Have just purchased my first Healey. It is a 100 6 , BN4, but is titled
as
> a 1960. The Serial number is BN4L075759. Has been in dry storage since
> 1978, I was told that the late 59's were titled '60, but I think this
> serial # is not that late? Can anyone shed some light on this?
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 13:11:28 EST
Subject: Re: Recent Purchase
In a message dated 1/9/01 6:42:24 AM, Biloselhir@aol.com writes:
<< Have just purchased my first Healey. It is a 100 6 , BN4, but is titled
as
a 1960. The Serial number is BN4L075759. Has been in dry storage since
1978, I was told that the late 59's were titled '60, but I think this
serial # is not that late? Can anyone shed some light on this? >>
Is it possible that there was some mistake on your serial number. According
to the Heritage trust production records from Clausager the last BN4 produced
was chassis number 74421. Do you have an engine or body number plate still
on the car?
Have you requested a production certificate from Heritage Trust yet. Given
the questions on this car, that might be worthwhile.
Cheers
Gary
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 10:26:04 -0800
Subject: RE: Smooth Line Hardtops
I contacted Smooth Line for new seals last month and they were very helpful
on the phone. The seals got to me slowly, maybe because of the holidays. My
used hardtop will eventually cost the same as a new one, but at least it has
been rescued. Try to find a picture that shows the quality of fit at the
windshield and other points. The pictures on their web page aren't near
close enough for that. I have problems at the windshield, but it may be due
to improper storage. Call them, it seemed like they had two price
structures, kind of confusing.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Joseph Smathers [mailto:healey27@mindspring.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 6:37 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Smooth Line Hardtops
I am thinking about adding a hardtop for my 60 3000. Will give me
additional driving days.
Any recommendations about Smooth Line hardtops or any other recommendations?
Thanks, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
From "popkapsule" <pkna at popkapsule.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 13:13:05 -0600
Subject: RE: Smooth Line Hardtops
Does anyone know where I can see pictures of a Healey hardtop on the web?
Thanks,
Bonny
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Editorgary@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 11:25 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Smooth Line Hardtops
In a message dated 1/9/01 6:40:14 AM, healey27@mindspring.com writes:
<< I am thinking about adding a hardtop for my 60 3000. Will give me
additional driving days.
Any recommendations about Smooth Line hardtops or any other recommendations?
>>
Smoothline folks seem to have their act together -- they advertise with us
and in many of the marque magazines. I haven't seen the style of the Healey
hard top -- will be interesting to compare with the Healey top.
Cheers
Gary
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 19:42:51 +0100
Subject: German Healey owner needs help verifying the PO in CA
Hi all,
I would need someone who could do me the favour to call a person in
North Hills, California and ask if this man is the past owner of my
Healey. I found two phone numbers of this guy but hesitate to give him
a call from here. Tried to send a letter to him but the address was
not sufficent and the letter came back. If the one I'm talking of is
the PO of my Healey I would like to know if he has an email address or
fax number I could get in touch with him.
I do not mention the name and phone numbers to the list to avoid that
the hopefully PO of my Healey gets hundreds of phonecalls. ;-))
Any help would be appreciated. Anyone who could help please contact me
off-list.
Best regards
Martin
Germany
BN4 '59
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 10:57:30 -0800
Subject: RE: Rear axel drool
Bob,
The cause of the leak is usually the hub seal and very often a new seal only
slows down the leak because a small almost imperceptable groove is also worn
into the axle housing. Bearing supply houses have "Redi-sleeve??" that is a
thin shim that can be slid over the housing to make a good surface for the
seal to rub against. I have seen a web page that had this fix on an MGA.
Years ago, I had my housing welded and turned down on a big lathe, but I
think the sleeve would have worked also.
Removing the hub is easy if you have the correct big socket or tool and
examine the threads to make sure they aren't left handed.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Judd [mailto:bobjudd@earthlink.net]
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 8:19 AM
To: HealeyAuto; Healey List
Subject: Rear axel drool
Funny, I thought, seeing a small puddle of oil underneath
the backing plate of my BN2. I'm replacing the linings and cylinders and
the oil leaking out of the axel makes me unsure about what to do
next.
Should I, 1) Rip open my stomach because if I
draw out the rear axel to replace the little paper gasket, I'll never get
the axel back in again. Or 2) just go ahead and do it. And put
in a little blue gasket goo when I put in the new gasket. Or 3)
Forget about it because the rear axels on BN2s always leak when you unbolt
the rear hub. And it'll all be ok when you bolt it back together
again.
Thanks for your help. Bob
Judd
----- Original Message -----
From:
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: 1/9/2001 6:43:36 AM
Subject: Recent Purchase
Have just purchased my first Healey. It is a 100 6 , BN4, but is
titled as
a 1960. The Serial number is
BN4L075759. Has been in dry storage since
1978, I was told that the late 59's were titled '60, but I
think this
serial # is not that late? Can anyone shed some light
on this?
--- bobjudd@earthlink.net
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 14:04:26 EST
Subject: More Goodies.....
Hi folks,
It's time to wheel and deal again. I still have the following items leftover
from my "stocking stuffer" sale, as well as a few new items. If interested,
inquire within.....If you're one of those fortunate few who likes to pay
retail prices for everything, then please hit the delete key now.
Extech 4-1/2 digit true RMS digital multimeter, model 380285. Retails for
$200, now selling $65. One available.
.
Extech Rangemaster digital multimeter, model 380278. Retails for $89.99, now
selling for $35. One available.
Fluke true RMS digital multimeter model 87III. Retails for $350, now selling
for $125. One available.
Extech insulation tester model 380360. Retails for $200, now selling for
$65. One available.
**New listing - Fluke infrared digital thermometer probe, model no. 80PK-IR.
This infrared probe plugs into the Fluke digital thermometers, or into any
multimeter that utilizes the mini spade (K) type connector. Reads
temperature (0 to 500 degrees F) without touching the dynamic or stationary
surface. Most accurate from .010" to 5" distance. Retails for $160, your
cost $75.
****I also have an assortment of Motorola hand held two way radio's****
Motorola Spirit GT+ two-way hand held radio. 1 watt power, up to 4 miles
range. $40 each. Two available. Both for $75.
Motorola Talkabout T250 two-way hand held radio. 0.5 watt power, up to 2 mile
range. $35. One available.
Motorola Talkabout T280 2-way hand held radio. 0.5 watt power, up to 2 miles
range, 14 channel, $35 each. Two available. Both for $65.
Below are some sites with information regarding the radio's:
http://commerce.motorola.com/consumer/QWhtml/2way_comp.html
http://www.southernce.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/scstore/twoways.htm?E+scstore
http://commerce.motorola.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=213490&;
prmenbr=126&twoway_cgrfnbr=210598&zipcode=&prsdesc=Spirit. GT+ Professional
two-way radio
All of the above are sold on a first come first serve basis. These items are
new, but a few may have been display models. These were purchased through a
company buyout. Prices include shipping in the U.S..
Scott Helms
Trmgafun@aol.com
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 14:13:36 EST
Subject: Re: Recent Purchase
Welcome to Healey land, your car with that vin number should have been built
around early Febuary 1958.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 14:19:11 EST
Subject: Re: Smooth Line Hardtops (BJ8 owners LOOK!!)
You can see a works hardtop with vent at:
http://www.cape-international.com/capeworks/issu3p1.htm
http://www.cape-international.com/compet.htm
They also have restoration parts.
Smoothline is at: http://smoothline.com/default.htm
A real BJ8 hardtop can be seen at my website:
http://members.aol.com/wilko/luckies.html
another rally style: http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/jimwerner.html
I also stumbled across this hardtop in the UK for sale..claims Original Works
hardtop for Mk2a and Mk3 for only #450.
In a message dated 1/9/01 10:32:01 AM, pkna@popkapsule.com writes:
<<
Does anyone know where I can see pictures of a Healey hardtop on the web?
Thanks,
Bonny
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 14:00:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Recent Purchase
I think you may be right, John. My first car was a "64" BJ7.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: John Snyder <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: <Biloselhir@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 12:37 PM
Subject: Re: Recent Purchase
>
> I have two 3000s that are titled for the year after they were actually
> built, including a tri-carb that was built in January, 1962; and is titled
> as a 1963. I think the title may refer to when the car was first sold.
> Both mine were first sold in California. The 1963 is a "rare"(?) one in
> that it has disc wheels and no overdrive. I will bet it sat on the
> dealer's lot for a long time before someone bought it.
>
> John Snyder
>
> ----------
> > From: Biloselhir@aol.com
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Recent Purchase
> > Date: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 6:39 AM
> >
> >
> > Have just purchased my first Healey. It is a 100 6 , BN4, but is titled
> as
> > a 1960. The Serial number is BN4L075759. Has been in dry storage
since
>
> > 1978, I was told that the late 59's were titled '60, but I think this
> > serial # is not that late? Can anyone shed some light on this?
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 20:45:04 +0100
Subject: Fw: German Healey owner needs help verifying the PO in CA
GREAT ! What a list !! I have already 3 volunteers to help. I will get
in contact with them.
Thanks a lot
Martin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Helga & Martin Heim" <hm.heim@t-online.de>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 7:42 PM
Subject: German Healey owner needs help verifying the PO in CA
>
> Hi all,
>
> I would need someone who could do me the favour to call a person in
> North Hills, California and ask if this man is the past owner of my
> Healey. I found two phone numbers of this guy but hesitate to give
him
> a call from here. Tried to send a letter to him but the address was
> not sufficent and the letter came back. If the one I'm talking of is
> the PO of my Healey I would like to know if he has an email address
or
> fax number I could get in touch with him.
> I do not mention the name and phone numbers to the list to avoid
that
> the hopefully PO of my Healey gets hundreds of phonecalls. ;-))
> Any help would be appreciated. Anyone who could help please contact
me
> off-list.
>
> Best regards
>
> Martin
> Germany
> BN4 '59
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 15:53:45 EST
Subject: Healeys For Sale
I received the following through the Bluegrass Club Web Site and thought I
would pass it along. No knowledge of the seller, etc., etc., etc., contact
him direct if interested.
From: autoprop@webspan.net (Auto Props, Inc.)
I have two Healeys that I would like to list to sell in club news
letter or if you may know of any body that may have some interest. One
is a66 BJ8 real clean car the other is a 57 complete but dissembled (NO
JUMP SEATS IN REAR) for more information you can call me at
973-470-9354 ask for Ken or return email to ken@autoprops.com
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
Visit my Bluegrass Austin Healey Club site at BluegrassClub. Com
And visit my British Sports Car Club of KY site at britishsportscarclub.com.
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 16:13:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Recent Purchase
Gary -
My copy of Clausager (page 83) shows that the last BN4 was chassis #77766
(March 59). Just above that entry, it says chassis #74421 (Dec 58) marked
the addition of a locating ring to the petrol filler pipe. Perhaps you
looked at the wrong line?
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: Biloselhir@aol.com <Biloselhir@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: Recent Purchase
>
>In a message dated 1/9/01 6:42:24 AM, Biloselhir@aol.com writes:
>
><< Have just purchased my first Healey. It is a 100 6 , BN4, but is titled
>as
>a 1960. The Serial number is BN4L075759. Has been in dry storage since
>1978, I was told that the late 59's were titled '60, but I think this
>serial # is not that late? Can anyone shed some light on this? >>
>
>Is it possible that there was some mistake on your serial number.
According
>to the Heritage trust production records from Clausager the last BN4
produced
>was chassis number 74421. Do you have an engine or body number plate still
>on the car?
>Have you requested a production certificate from Heritage Trust yet. Given
>the questions on this car, that might be worthwhile.
>
>Cheers
>Gary
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 16:29:07 EST
Subject: Re: Smooth Line Hardtops
In a message dated 1/9/01 1:31:44 PM Eastern Standard Time,
pkna@popkapsule.com writes:
> Does anyone know where I can see pictures of a Healey hardtop on the web?
>
>
Check out the SMOOTHLINE web site, "http://www.smoothline.com/";
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 16:45:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Fogged gauges
Friends,
This fogged gauge thread reminds me of the time (many years ago) when I
actually drove my 7 year old BJ8 all winter. It was the only car I had.
Anyway, one occasion, on my way to see a friend and attend a Western
University function in London, Ontario, I ran into a pretty thick snow
storm. It was one of those storms with big wet flakes driven with wind. I
was concentrating on my driving when, while casting a glance down to the
instrument panel, I noticed the oil pressure / water temp. gauge was slowly
filling with dark brown oil!
I immediately pulled well onto the shoulder and proceeded to discover the
oil line to the back of the gauge was quite loose. I fumbled around in the
boot for the tool box, got out the little adjustable and proceeded to get
quite wet from the waist down with the sloppy snow and passing traffic while
my upper extremeties were wedged under the dash, tightening the line.
I managed to stop the level from rising in the gauge, though it took months
to disipate the oily residue from the face of the instrument.
Oh, yeah, the rest of the weekend was a blast with a co-ed dorm and parties
everywhere!
The Healey was quite a hit with the university crowd, and was absolutely
fantastic in the snow with a set of the old Goodyear G800 redwall tires.
Remember them?
I shudder to think of the salt bath the car suffered at the time. Happily,
the car is fully restored and is now owned by fellow club member Paul
Cleary.
Rich Chrysler
From "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 17:24:17 -0500
Subject: ID Plaates
Sorry to bomb the list but several months ago, some listers gave me the ads
and fone number of a company (person) who is, I believe, in Pennsylvania who
will properly stamp a VIN plate. In my recent move, I have lost the name and
address.
I do, however remember that I tried several times to contact this person while
living in Las Vegas and all I got was an answering maching and no call backs.
Can anyone help??
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 17:31:21 EST
Subject: Re: Recent Purchase
Thanks for the note -- That's why they don't pay me to transcribe.
You're right; last BN4 produced was 77766.
Cheers
gary
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 17:56:44 -0500
Subject: Paging Charles Phillips, Washington, NC
STBTL
Is Charles Phillips on the list? If so, please contact me.
Thanks.
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC
From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 18:01:54 EST
Subject: Re: ID Plaates
Hey John, that would be Todd Clarke Spares and Restorations @ 215-348-0595 in
Doylestown, PA.
Cheers,
John Wright
BN1
BN6
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 18:16:15 -0500
Subject: Re: ID Plaates
The company is (Todd) Clarke Spares and Restorations
90 West Swamp Road
Doylestown, PA 18901
Phone: (215) 348-0595
Fax: (215) 348-4160
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: J_L_Sims <J_L_Sims@email.msn.com>
To: Healey E-mail list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 5:49 PM
Subject: ID Plaates
>
>Sorry to bomb the list but several months ago, some listers gave me the ads
>and fone number of a company (person) who is, I believe, in Pennsylvania
who
>will properly stamp a VIN plate. In my recent move, I have lost the name
and
>address.
>
>I do, however remember that I tried several times to contact this person
while
>living in Las Vegas and all I got was an answering maching and no call
backs.
>
>Can anyone help??
>
>John Sims, BN6
>Aberdeen, NJ
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 17:47:42 -0600
Subject: Re: Rear axel drool
Bob Judd wrote:
> Funny, I thought, seeing a small puddle of oil underneath
> the backing plate of my BN2. I'm replacing the linings and cylinders and
> the oil leaking out of the axel makes me unsure about what to do
> next.
> Should I, 1) Rip open my stomach because if I
> draw out the rear axel to replace the little paper gasket, I'll never get
> the axel back in again. Or 2) just go ahead and do it. And put
> in a little blue gasket goo when I put in the new gasket. Or 3)
> Forget about it because the rear axels on BN2s always leak when you unbolt
> the rear hub. And it'll all be ok when you bolt it back together
> again.
If you are absolutely sure the "puddle of oil" is, in fact, oil then option 2
would be my advice. In the event that you don't know much of the history of
the car, then first check the brake master cylinder to check for two things:
1. low fluid level
2. really dirty brake fluid that might be confused w/ differential oil and is
leaking from a wheel cylinder which will result in #1, above.
That brings me to #1A. If you don't purchase the paper gasket ahead of time
and have it at hand, you will definitely tear the old one. Conversely, if you
have two or three on the bench it will come right out w/ no problems.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 17:58:06 -0600
Subject: RE: Rear axel drool
Perhaps a redundant tip - I have found that new paper gaskets always seem to
be a tad undersize, like they were stamped out with stock that had some
moisture in them originally but has since dried out.
I always moisten a new gasket with a damp cloth before attempting to
install. Gaskets appear to stretch/relax just enough to make installation
simple.
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Dickstein [mailto:bugide@solve.net]
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 3:48 PM
To: Bob Judd
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: Rear axel drool
>>That brings me to #1A. If you don't purchase the paper gasket ahead of
time
and have it at hand, you will definitely tear the old one. Conversely, if
you
have two or three on the bench it will come right out w/ no problems.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO<<
From "Sam Marble" <samncyna at netzero.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 19:29:51 -0500
Subject: Re: ID Plaates
The company is Clarke Spares & Restoration (CSR) in Doylestown, Pa..
215-348-0595
Sam
----- Original Message -----
From: "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims@email.msn.com>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 5:24 PM
Subject: ID Plaates
>
> Sorry to bomb the list but several months ago, some listers gave me
the ads
> and fone number of a company (person) who is, I believe, in
Pennsylvania who
> will properly stamp a VIN plate. In my recent move, I have lost the
name and
> address.
>
> I do, however remember that I tried several times to contact this
person while
> living in Las Vegas and all I got was an answering maching and no
call backs.
>
> Can anyone help??
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
Shop online without a credit card
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
From "Andrew Pilsworth" <pils at home.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 19:50:48 -0500
Subject: healey colors
I have been looking at buying a 66 MKIII. Supposable the original factory
colors are Black with Silver with gray interior. I have never seen or heard of
this combination. Has anyone seen this "factory" combination??
Andrew
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 19:47:25 -0600
Subject: Re: Recent Purchase
hi john-
your disc wheel 63 will have the elusive 3.54 rear axle ratio which, if you add
an overdrive, is how they all should have been equipped. if you decide to make
this conversion you'll need the transmission with the od as you can't add an od
to a non-od tranny.
happy healeying,
jerry wall
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: <Biloselhir@aol.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Recent Purchase
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 09:37:46 -0800
I have two 3000s that are titled for the year after they were actually
built, including a tri-carb that was built in January, 1962; and is titled
as a 1963. I think the title may refer to when the car was first sold.
Both mine were first sold in California. The 1963 is a "rare"(?) one in
that it has disc wheels and no overdrive. I will bet it sat on the
dealer's lot for a long time before someone bought it.
John Snyder
----------
> From: Biloselhir@aol.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Recent Purchase
> Date: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 6:39 AM
>
>
> Have just purchased my first Healey. It is a 100 6 , BN4, but is titled
as
> a 1960. The Serial number is BN4L075759. Has been in dry storage since
> 1978, I was told that the late 59's were titled '60, but I think this
> serial # is not that late? Can anyone shed some light on this?
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 21:02:15 EST
Subject: Re: healey colors
In a message dated 1/9/01 4:48:57 PM, pils@home.com writes:
<< I have been looking at buying a 66 MKIII. Supposable the original factory
colors are Black with Silver with gray interior. I have never seen or heard of
this combination. Has anyone seen this "factory" combination??
Andrew >>
This color combination was never available from the dealers. Silver was never
listed as an exterior color in any sales literature, and if the gray you
mention is a silver-gray, rather than a beige parchment-grey, that was not
available either. I'm not aware of any show cars that were ever painted in
those colors. You, or the seller, can check to see what colors this car was
originally painted and trimmed by getting a production certificate from
British Motor Industry Heritage Trust, but I would be willing to bet it
didn't leave the factory that way.
Not that this isn't a striking color combination -- I've seen it done in
restorations several times, and it is quite attractive.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Chairman, AH Concours Registry
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 20:26:58 -0600
Subject: Re: New Carpet...
i thought concourses were at airports. perhaps a lot of people have a problem
with concours because they can't spell it.. these same folks may just think
they are part of the healey marquee/marquis because they get the marque
magazine.
----- Original Message -----
From: "JustBrits" <justbrits@mediaone.net>
To: "Paul Cleary" <pcleary@ican.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: New Carpet...
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 19:04:59 -0600
<<It is funny to read all these letters about concourse cars>>
Even in your "neck of the woods", Paul I believe you have "shopping
Concourses", right??
Cheers..........
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
From "Gary Patterson" <gpatt1 at home.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 21:26:46 -0500
Subject: Re: healey colors
Hi Andrew,
Donald Pikovnik's "Guide to Historic Colors" lists five two-tone
combinations for the BJ7 & BJ8: Ice Blue Metallic/Old English White;
Florida Green/Old English White; Black/Colorado Red; Colorado Red/Black;
and Old English White/Black.
Gary Patterson
66 BRG BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Pilsworth" <pils@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 7:50 PM
Subject: healey colors
>
> I have been looking at buying a 66 MKIII. Supposable the original
factory
> colors are Black with Silver with gray interior. I have never seen or
heard of
> this combination. Has anyone seen this "factory" combination??
>
> Andrew
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 18:06:06 -0800
Subject: MG Mechanic - NO HEALEY CONTENT
Can anyone suggest a good MG mechanic in the southern (SF) Bay Area.
TIA.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
From MossHale at aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 21:54:12 EST
Subject: Re: Recent Purchase
I believe your car is a '59 100-6 regardless of when it was titled. Cars were
not always sold in the year of manufacturer. My BN7 is an early '59 3000,
even has the the 100-6 grill badge. An aside - In France in the 1950's I was
looking to purchase a Jag and inquired about acquiring 'last years' model at
a discounted price. Ha! Was I in for an awareness. There was no such thing as
last years model in those days. Cars were titled in the year of purchase. One
got what was available period. Considering styling never changed much, what
the heck. Being 69 and having owned a 55 100 2 years in France and a '60 3000
BN7 6 years there too, both principal drivers. I have enjoyed so much the
stories related in these messages. Wanna get wet - drive a 100 top up or down
never mattered much. Stray coming from the top center, an soaked left leg.
Used to keep towels on my knee. My car was recently acquired as restored. At
$50K the owner sure was ripped off, but for $30K maybe I was too? Much to be
done. More time and money. Again what matters is what model you have, and an
BN4 cannot be 1960 vintage. Then I've been wrong more than once. Everyone
enjoy your cars. I do, just looking at it envokes something I really have no
words for. Thanks for everyones commentary. By the way where does one obtain
that concours guide?
Hale Castleman BN7
From "Paul Cleary" <pcleary at ican.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 22:31:13 -0500
Subject: Re: New Carpet...
Depends on what your saying, IE Concourse as in a coming together of people
as in this list or Concours d'elegance "parade of Vehicles". So take your
pick. And as for being part of the Healey Marquee, I have earned my right,
not only in $$$$$ spent but also in the fact that I have restored my car on
mine own.
I might be new to this list, but boy theres some pillicks here.
And by the way, I was born and bred in the UK, so that gives me more of a
right than you I Guess.
Paul Cleary
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <justbrits@mediaone.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 9:26 PM
Subject: Re: New Carpet...
>
> i thought concourses were at airports. perhaps a lot of people have a
problem with concours because they can't spell it.. these same folks may
just think they are part of the healey marquee/marquis because they get the
marque magazine.
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "JustBrits" <justbrits@mediaone.net>
> To: "Paul Cleary" <pcleary@ican.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: New Carpet...
> Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 19:04:59 -0600
>
>
> <<It is funny to read all these letters about concourse cars>>
>
> Even in your "neck of the woods", Paul I believe you have "shopping
> Concourses", right??
>
> Cheers..........
>
> Ed
> '63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 21:49:19 -0600
Subject: Test
Hi Fellows
Just checking my system
Kind regards
Ed
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 20:19:38 -0800
Subject: RE: Recent Purchase
With all the concours discussion on the list lately, I was motivated to send
in my $25 to Walt Blanck and order a copy for myself. You'll find
information about it here:
http://www.healey.org/concours-registry.shtml
Brad
'55 100
BN1 #226796
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of MossHale@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 6:54 PM
> To: Biloselhir@aol.com
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Recent Purchase
>
>
>
> I believe your car is a '59 100-6 regardless of when it was
> titled. Cars were
> not always sold in the year of manufacturer. My BN7 is an early '59 3000,
> even has the the 100-6 grill badge. An aside - In France in the
> 1950's I was
> looking to purchase a Jag and inquired about acquiring 'last
> years' model at
> a discounted price. Ha! Was I in for an awareness. There was no
> such thing as
> last years model in those days. Cars were titled in the year of
> purchase. One
> got what was available period. Considering styling never changed
> much, what
> the heck. Being 69 and having owned a 55 100 2 years in France
> and a '60 3000
> BN7 6 years there too, both principal drivers. I have enjoyed so much the
> stories related in these messages. Wanna get wet - drive a 100
> top up or down
> never mattered much. Stray coming from the top center, an soaked
> left leg.
> Used to keep towels on my knee. My car was recently acquired as
> restored. At
> $50K the owner sure was ripped off, but for $30K maybe I was too?
> Much to be
> done. More time and money. Again what matters is what model you
> have, and an
> BN4 cannot be 1960 vintage. Then I've been wrong more than once. Everyone
> enjoy your cars. I do, just looking at it envokes something I
> really have no
> words for. Thanks for everyones commentary. By the way where does
> one obtain
> that concours guide?
> Hale Castleman BN7
From "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 20:53:13 -0800
Subject: Re: Original vs. Repro 100-M Cold Air Box
Hi Michael, Andy, and Richard:
The notes below from Andy confirm that I have located a very badly damaged
original cold air box. The mounting brackets are steel plates riveted onto
the aluminum box. On the steel plate I am finding two nuts welded to each
steel plate for mounting behind the carbs. The reproductions do not have the
steel plates or the rivets, but do have some sort of threaded fastener (I do
not recall, it has been years since I R&R'd mine - a pain they are!) .
The box does have the four holes for the "LeMans modification" tag.
So my compliments to the reproduction cold air box builders, they are
achieving a copy that is real close to the originals.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy" <healey-100@hawaii.rr.com>
To: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 10:35 PM
Subject: Re: Original vs. Repro 100-M Cold Air Box
> When installed you can't tell, however on the original, the reinforcing
> gusset plates where the box bolts up to the carbs, the plates are attached
> with hammered flush rivets. on the aftermarket they are welded. I would
also
> mention my original never had a Lemans tag attached and I know at the very
> least it was on the car as far back as 1960. The engine hood was not
> louvered so I have always assumed it was a Kit. hope this helps some. I am
> no expert and have never even owned a concours standards book or even done
> researched on my Healey so I would instantly bow to the experts. If you
are
> wondering there is a part number stamped on the front face of the cam
shaft
> that will designate a factory LM cam and not just a regrind copy. I
thought
> about taking mind out to save it, and install something else to drive
around
> on. But as with many Healeys it has not run in many many years so there
is
> not much wear going on.
>
> Andy
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
> To: "healeys list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 8:53 PM
> Subject: Original vs. Repro 100-M Cold Air Box
>
>
> >
> > I am wondering if anybody would be so kind as to share with me any
> discovered
> > differences between the original 100-M cold air boxes and the
> reproductions.
> > Does anybody know?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> >
> > Jim LeBlanc
> > 1956 100-M
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 21:41:43 -0800
Subject: Re: Recent Purchase
Jerry: I feel obliged to disagree with you. My BJ8 was delivered to the
original owner without an overdrive. I obtained an OD from a dismantler
back in the early '70s (they were called junk yards in those days). All I
did was replace the mainshaft (output shaft) and replace the gearbox
extension with the OD. I am sure that this messed up the gear ratios as I
ended up with a standard transmission modified to accept the OD. The
original engine/transmission/OD were removed at the factory before delivery
and replaced with a standard trany but I do not know if the rear end was
changed assuming that there were different ratios for standard and OD
transmissions (there do appear to be options in replacement rear end gears
in the catalogs). One of these days I will try to determine my overall gear
ratios and compare them to "the book".
Len
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <johnahsn@olypen.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 5:47 PM
Subject: Re: Recent Purchase
>
> hi john-
>
> your disc wheel 63 will have the elusive 3.54 rear axle ratio which, if
you add an overdrive, is how they all should have been equipped. if you
decide to make this conversion you'll need the transmission with the od as
you can't add an od to a non-od tranny.
>
> happy healeying,
>
> jerry wall
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
> To: <Biloselhir@aol.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Recent Purchase
> Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 09:37:46 -0800
>
>
> I have two 3000s that are titled for the year after they were actually
> built, including a tri-carb that was built in January, 1962; and is titled
> as a 1963. I think the title may refer to when the car was first sold.
> Both mine were first sold in California. The 1963 is a "rare"(?) one in
> that it has disc wheels and no overdrive. I will bet it sat on the
> dealer's lot for a long time before someone bought it.
>
> John Snyder
>
> ----------
> > From: Biloselhir@aol.com
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Recent Purchase
> > Date: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 6:39 AM
> >
> >
> > Have just purchased my first Healey. It is a 100 6 , BN4, but is titled
> as
> > a 1960. The Serial number is BN4L075759. Has been in dry storage
since
>
> > 1978, I was told that the late 59's were titled '60, but I think this
> > serial # is not that late? Can anyone shed some light on this?
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 21:46:49 -0800
Subject: Re: New Carpet...
No! Concourses are classes that prison inmates take.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <justbrits@mediaone.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 6:26 PM
Subject: Re: New Carpet...
>
> i thought concourses were at airports. perhaps a lot of people have a
problem with concours because they can't spell it.. these same folks may
just think they are part of the healey marquee/marquis because they get the
marque magazine.
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "JustBrits" <justbrits@mediaone.net>
> To: "Paul Cleary" <pcleary@ican.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: New Carpet...
> Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 19:04:59 -0600
>
>
> <<It is funny to read all these letters about concourse cars>>
>
> Even in your "neck of the woods", Paul I believe you have "shopping
> Concourses", right??
>
> Cheers..........
>
> Ed
> '63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 22:55:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Recent Purchase
I owned 75826 and that was within about 1500 of the last 100-6 as I recall,
and 67 cars after yours. It was titled as a 1959. I don't think you should pay
much attention to when it was titled. The Brits (or europeans) were never too
hot on annual styling changes so there were no major "model year" differences.
The BMIHT can tell you the date the car left the factory and that says more
about it than the date it was sold in this country after sitting on a dealers
lot for several months.
Bill Lawrence
Albuquerque
Biloselhir@aol.com wrote:
> Have just purchased my first Healey. It is a 100 6 , BN4, but is titled as
> a 1960. The Serial number is BN4L075759. Has been in dry storage since
> 1978, I was told that the late 59's were titled '60, but I think this
> serial # is not that late? Can anyone shed some light on this?
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 23:06:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Recent Purchase
No Gary according to the "Production Changes" page, Pg. 83, BN4 production
ceased at 77766. At 74421 they added a locating ring to the petrol filler pipe
to prevent air locks.
Bill Lawrence
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 1/9/01 6:42:24 AM, Biloselhir@aol.com writes:
>
> << Have just purchased my first Healey. It is a 100 6 , BN4, but is titled
> as
> a 1960. The Serial number is BN4L075759. Has been in dry storage since
> 1978, I was told that the late 59's were titled '60, but I think this
> serial # is not that late? Can anyone shed some light on this? >>
>
> Is it possible that there was some mistake on your serial number. According
> to the Heritage trust production records from Clausager the last BN4 produced
> was chassis number 74421. Do you have an engine or body number plate still
> on the car?
> Have you requested a production certificate from Heritage Trust yet. Given
> the questions on this car, that might be worthwhile.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From Josef.Eckert at t-mobil.de
Date: 10 Jan 2001 06:58:04 +0000
Subject: Re:Recent Purchase
A friend of mine has got a BN4, Chassis Number BN4L/76759. This car was built
in Spring 1959, Heritage Certificate is available. Please send me a notice, if
one wants more information (can ask him for further details):
josef.eckert@t-mobil.de
Cheers
Josef Eckert, Germany
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 19:05:00 -0800
Subject: Healey and Hunter Drawings
I have just updated my web site with the following -
A reproduction of 27 design drawings by Harold Hunter of his Twin
Overhead Cam Head for the 100 this is over 4MB of information and has
been a major project for the site.
Four new Healey and Austin production drawings, comprising an Austin
Chassis drawing for BN7 to BT7 ( like the one in the manual but more
information) and drawings for the Body Mounting Brackets. 4 drawings in
total. These drawings I have had scanned at full size, so keep in mind
that the chassis drawing is about 3 feet by 4 feet in size and won't be
very readable when printed at A4. You will find that many photocopying
and Plan Printing businesses can print from the file, so I suggest
trying it as it looks impressive! I intend digitally restoring the
chassis drawing as time permits, and will let you all know when it is
completed
Regards
Larry Varley
Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 00:09:01 -0800
Subject: Re: New Carpet...
Aren't sentences supposed to start with capital letters. Sorry, couldn't
resist. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <justbrits@mediaone.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 6:26 PM
Subject: Re: New Carpet...
>
> i thought concourses were at airports. perhaps a lot of people have a
problem with concours because they can't spell it.. these same folks may
just think they are part of the healey marquee/marquis because they get the
marque magazine.
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "JustBrits" <justbrits@mediaone.net>
> To: "Paul Cleary" <pcleary@ican.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: New Carpet...
> Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 19:04:59 -0600
>
>
> <<It is funny to read all these letters about concourse cars>>
>
> Even in your "neck of the woods", Paul I believe you have "shopping
> Concourses", right??
>
> Cheers..........
>
> Ed
> '63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 09:47:14 +0000
Subject: Re: Original vs. Repro 100-M Cold Air Box
Andy
> I would also
>mention my original never had a Lemans tag attached and I know at the very
>least it was on the car as far back as 1960. The engine hood was not
>louvered so I have always assumed it was a Kit.
There is another alternative. You could have an early factory conversion
to Le Mans specification. My 100 went back to the DHMCo early in its
life to have most of the then available Le Mans Features to be added.
The fact that it went back to the factory has been verified by both DMH
and Bic Healey although no details of what was actually done have
survived other than the recollections of the second owner.
I like you do not have a louvered bonnet and digging further I have
found that this was not offered by the DHMCo. That is, in an attachment
to a letter to an early owner which I now have. It was not until BMC
produced their brochure that this seemed to appear.
The tag on the air box also seems to have appeared later. Mine does not
have it and neither do a few other early Le Mans factory conversions
that I have seen.
It is interesting to note that around 1975 a few owners and I were taken
to task for not having a louvered bonnet/hood. At that time it was
thought that all Le Mans or "M" 100s could only be genuine if they had a
louvered bonnet and a cold air box badge. So, good bonnets were louverd
(badly) and illicit badges started to be reproduced here in the UK.
I am glad that I left mine alone.
It would be interesting to know the age of your 100?
All the best
--
John Harper
From njones at amadeus.net
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 13:53:42 +0100
Subject: Color code used for the Yellow Rad fans.
Would anyone have the correct color(colour) code for the 3000 radiator fan.
Thanks in advance.
From David Neale <dneale at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 04:05:23 -0800
Subject: Re: Color code for Primrose Yellow.
Does anyone have the correct code code for the color "Primrose Yellow".
Thank you
DAVID NEALE
BN7
BJ8
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 08:47:01 -0700
Subject: Re:More Goodies...
The Healey list is NO Place to wheel and deal Scott....... I personnaly
don't have time to dribble through your money-making adventures while I try
to enjoy my hobby.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
From MossHale at aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 11:02:21 EST
Subject: Wheels
Sometime ads indicate cars as having stainless wire wheels but I've not found
any reference to such on the internet, only the painted or chrome ones. Has
anyone a reference to such an item?
Thanks
Hale Castleman 59 BN7 3422
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 11:10:30 EST
Subject: Re: Original vs. Repro 100-M Cold Air Box
In a message dated 1/10/01 3:26:46 AM Eastern Standard Time,
John@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
<< The tag on the air box also seems to have appeared later. Mine does not
have it and neither do a few other early Le Mans factory conversions
that I have seen. >>
I know from the first owner's notes that my car--BN1L222333, produced in
12/54--received its LeMans conversion kit in mid-1956. The cold airbox
plate was supplied "loose" and he chose to affix it to the dash, though I
have since attached it to the box as is normally seen. Therefore, I do not
think that the location or even the presence of this plate is very important.
BTW, the "100M/LeMans Registry" publishes some interesting identification
points for differentiating a reproduction plate from an original. I do not
have this info available to me presently, but it has to do with the spacing
of the letters.
Best Regards--Michael Oritt, BN1
From "John Benkovic" <jjbank at sprintmail.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 11:33:57 -0500
Subject: Response to Steve Byers
Steve I own a Phase 1 BJ8 (HBJ8L25805). I purchased it in 11/97. It is in good
condition.
I purchased the car in the restored condition. Just a comment to the negative
feedback on the spelling of concours and marque.
If you have Microsoft Outlook it will try to correct the spelling as I have
typed above. So what if people spell wrong. We are not in High school English.
Some people take it to serious, don't you think
From "Sam Marble" <samncyna at netzero.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 11:33:29 -0500
Subject: Re: healey colors
The only "standard" two tone color combinations (with black) were:
black/red, red/black, white/black, yellow/black.
Special color combinations could be special ordered but silver was
never offered as a standard Healey color.
Grey interiors were offered with red or green (Pacific green/Florida
green)
Only way to tell for sure is to get a Heritage certificate for the car
which will show the colors the car left the factory with.
Sam
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Pilsworth" <pils@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 7:50 PM
Subject: healey colors
>
> I have been looking at buying a 66 MKIII. Supposable the original
factory
> colors are Black with Silver with gray interior. I have never seen
or heard of
> this combination. Has anyone seen this "factory" combination??
>
> Andrew
>
Shop online without a credit card
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
From "Sam Marble" <samncyna at netzero.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 11:47:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Recent Purchase
I remember, back in the 60's, eyeing a BJ8 in a BMC dealer's showroom
on several different occaisions when bringing in my car for service.
I'm sure this particular car sat ther for at least a year before
finally getting sold which would, certainly, account for a discrepancy
in it's production year versus registration year.
On the other hand, my 100-6 is 77383 produced in March 59 and always
documented as a 59 on all registration forms. So, obviously, just
about any thing could have been possible.
Sam
----- Original Message -----
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <Biloselhir@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 1:06 AM
Subject: Re: Recent Purchase
>
> No Gary according to the "Production Changes" page, Pg. 83, BN4
production
> ceased at 77766. At 74421 they added a locating ring to the petrol
filler pipe
> to prevent air locks.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> > In a message dated 1/9/01 6:42:24 AM, Biloselhir@aol.com writes:
> >
> > << Have just purchased my first Healey. It is a 100 6 , BN4, but
is titled
> > as
> > a 1960. The Serial number is BN4L075759. Has been in dry
storage since
> > 1978, I was told that the late 59's were titled '60, but I think
this
> > serial # is not that late? Can anyone shed some light on this?
>>
> >
> > Is it possible that there was some mistake on your serial number.
According
> > to the Heritage trust production records from Clausager the last
BN4 produced
> > was chassis number 74421. Do you have an engine or body number
plate still
> > on the car?
> > Have you requested a production certificate from Heritage Trust
yet. Given
> > the questions on this car, that might be worthwhile.
> >
> > Cheers
> > Gary
>
Shop online without a credit card
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 11:47:46 EST
Subject: Re: MG Mechanic - NO HEALEY CONTENT
The very best -- and he is excellent -- is J.R. at O'Connor Classics on Scott
Blvd near Central in Santa Clara -- 408-727-0430. They are an advertiser in
my magazine. I've used him several times on my Healey. Fair warning,
however. He gets booked up long in advance.
If you can get the car up to Corte Madera, you could use Steve Lilves, Lilves
Racing (also an advertiser) 415-924-3173. He helps me maintain my MGA.
Cheers
Gary
From "Sam Marble" <samncyna at netzero.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 11:49:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Color code used for the Yellow Rad fans.
I don't but Plasicoat "schoolbus yellow " seems to come real close.
Sam
----- Original Message -----
From: <njones@amadeus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 7:53 AM
Subject: Color code used for the Yellow Rad fans.
>
> Would anyone have the correct color(colour) code for the 3000
radiator fan.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
Shop online without a credit card
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
From "Sam Marble" <samncyna at netzero.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 11:52:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Color code for Primrose Yellow.
Primrose, as used on the big Healeys, and also refered to as Sunburst
yellow, had code YL 3, ICI - 3011.
Sam
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Neale" <dneale@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 7:05 AM
Subject: Re: Color code for Primrose Yellow.
>
> Does anyone have the correct code code for the color "Primrose
Yellow".
>
> Thank you
>
> DAVID NEALE
> BN7
> BJ8
>
Shop online without a credit card
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 11:55:26 EST
Subject: What's a Pillick?
In a message dated 1/9/01 7:35:01 PM, pcleary@ican.net writes:
<<
I might be new to this list, but boy theres some pillicks here. >>
Boy, that's a new one on me. I know about "anoraks," "train spotters," and
the meaning of "naff," but never heard of a pillick!
Cheers
Gary
From "AH102 at home.com" <ah102@home.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 12:05:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Wheels
Dayton makes chrome wire wheels with stainless steel spokes. They are
available from (among others) British Wire Wheel on the West Coast, and
Hendrix on the East Coast.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <MossHale@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 11:02 AM
Subject: Wheels
>
> Sometime ads indicate cars as having stainless wire wheels but I've not
found
> any reference to such on the internet, only the painted or chrome ones.
Has
> anyone a reference to such an item?
> Thanks
> Hale Castleman 59 BN7 3422
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 12:04:39 EST
Subject: Re: Recent Purchase
In a message dated 1/9/01 10:12:44 PM, ynotink@qwest.net writes:
<< No Gary according to the "Production Changes" page, Pg. 83, BN4 production
ceased at 77766. At 74421 they added a locating ring to the petrol filler pipe
to prevent air locks.
Bill Lawrence >>
Got it -- thanks. I was reading from the table in our book, which was taken
from Anders' records. Unfortunately, through this discussion, we've
discovered that the typesetter dropped a line from our table.
For those of you who have our Austin-Healey Restoration Book, you may wish to
make the following correction to your book: Page 136, toward the bottom of
the page. Should read: March 1959 BN4/77766 last 100-Six models produced.
(the serial number for the BN6 -- BN6/4650 -- is correct).
p.s. we had postponed posting of the corrections to our web site but will be
doing that soon.
Cheers
Gary
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 09:10:20 -0800
Subject: Re: More Goodies...
Hold on a minute. Yes, digital multimeters my not seem like a item for a car
built before transistors, but I got one, at a killer price, and I do use it on
my Healey. Is your battery charging???
Trying to keep the smoke IN the wires,
Brian
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
James Sailer wrote:
> The Healey list is NO Place to wheel and deal Scott....... I personnaly
> don't have time to dribble through your money-making adventures while I try
> to enjoy my hobby.
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 12:20:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey and Hunter Drawings
Dynamite site, Larry. Thanks a lot.
---
Lee Mairs
'62 Mk II Tri-carb
---
While the Pobble was in the water some unidentified creatures came and ate
his toes off, and when he got home his aunt remarked: It's a fact the whole
world knows, That Pobbles are happier without their toes, which is funny
because it has a meaning, and one might even say a political significance.
For the whole theory of authoritarian government is summed up in the
statement that Pobbles are happier without their toes.
--George Orwell
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 12:12:45 EST
Subject: Re: More Goodies...
In a message dated Wed, 10 Jan 2001 10:46:04 AM Eastern Standard Time, "James
Sailer" <sailer@srv.net> writes:
<< The Healey list is NO Place to wheel and deal Scott....... I personnaly
don't have time to dribble through your money-making adventures while I try
to enjoy my hobby.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 >>
Hi Jim and everyone else,
Very sorry. No problem. No more. I had no intentions of disrupting your
hobby Jim, or anyone else's for that matter. I happened to come upon some
good deals that I felt were related to Healey's and I thought I'd share them
with some of the people I value the most. Yes, I'm making a little bit of
money, but in turn I'm spending it on my Healey project, buying products from
some of the suppliers who lurk on this list. Isn't that what keeps the
economy going?
If that's a problem, then so be it......
Again, very sorry.
Scott Helms
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 09:44:02 -0800
Subject: Re: Recent Purchase
You are 100% right on. I just happen to have a good, spare center shift
trans with O/D sitting in my shop. Guess where it is going.
John Snyder
----------
> From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
> To: johnahsn@olypen.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Recent Purchase
> Date: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 5:47 PM
>
> hi john-
>
> your disc wheel 63 will have the elusive 3.54 rear axle ratio which, if
you add an overdrive, is how they all should have been equipped. if you
decide to make this conversion you'll need the transmission with the od as
you can't add an od to a non-od tranny.
>
> happy healeying,
>
> jerry wall
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 10:09:45 -0800
Subject: Used Parts
I am starting another restoration, and wonder if there is anyone out there
who could help me with some used parts. I know I could buy these new, but
am trying to hold the restoration costs down...prefer to spend the $$$ on
the mechanical stuff and body work.
I need both the left and right metal seat bases (where the seat foam goes)
for any Healey 3000. Also need one center/front air cleaner for a
Tri-Carb engine. Please note that tri-carb air cleaners are different from
all others, and the others will not fit.
I'm looking for parts that can be cleaned up and "restored", i.e. no rust
through on the seat bases.
TIA
John Snyder
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 13:28:24 EST
Subject: Ex Works Car SMO 744
I seem to remember some discussion about some of these cars, and the SMO 744
was mentioned. I just found it for sale through the Healey Factory in
Melbourne. http://www.healeyfactory.com.au/showroom.html
From "Dave BOWERS" <BOWERSDA at uvsc.edu>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 12:22:12 -0700
Subject: Re: More Goodies...
Scott,
There is no need to be sorry. This has been hashed out many times
and the end result is:
1. If you don't like it - hit the delete key.
2. Most of the listers seem to appreciate the deals found here.
3. Mellow out - life to short to be bothered by those that gripe
about everything...
Dave B^)
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
If that's a problem, then so be it......
Again, very sorry.
Scott Helms
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
<< The Healey list is NO Place to wheel and deal Scott....... I personnaly
don't have time to dribble through your money-making adventures while I try
to enjoy my hobby.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 >>
From "Peter Hunt" <peterhunt at freechariot.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 21:21:07 -0000
Subject: Re: What's a Pillick?
Gary,
Unable to find the word "pillick" in the Concise Oxford Dictionary, suspect
therefore that it is English slang. The word "pillock" is known over here
which may derive from the word 'pillory'.
COD defines Pillory as 1. Wooden framework with holes for head and hands of
offender exposed to public ridicule etc. 2. Put in the pillory, expose to
ridicule.
A pillick or pillock may be someone open to ridicule.
Origins unknown but generally considered to be Middle English, the word(s)
in use before 1500 AD.
Not sure what this has to do with Healeys but someone, no doubt, on the list
will make a connection !!!!!!
Peter Hunt
ATW2000
'62 BT7
'63 BJ7
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 4:55 PM
Subject: What's a Pillick?
>
> In a message dated 1/9/01 7:35:01 PM, pcleary@ican.net writes:
>
> <<
> I might be new to this list, but boy theres some pillicks here. >>
>
> Boy, that's a new one on me. I know about "anoraks," "train spotters,"
and
> the meaning of "naff," but never heard of a pillick!
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 15:25:27 -0600
Subject: Re: More Goodies...
Your response is an interesting, is it a variation to red sails in the
sunset
<grin>
Ed
65 BJ8
89 4/4
P.S. On a more serious note some Healey owners who have CBs might
prefer a better set of radios to use; and the testing equipment is
always useful. Whether or not it is Scott with electronic goodies, or
for example with a "heads up" from Jonathan Lane from Moss, the
intentions I read into such e-mail is to help fellow Healey owners. It's
possible Jim you have everything, I do not.
James Sailer wrote:
> The Healey list is NO Place to wheel and deal Scott....... I personnaly
> don't have time to dribble through your money-making adventures while I try
> to enjoy my hobby.
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8
From "Paul Cleary" <pcleary at ican.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 16:28:42 -0500
Subject: Re: What's a Pillick?
Damn keyboard sticking......"Scouse Verbiage...
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <pcleary@ican.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 4:24 PM
Subject: Re: What's a Pillick?
>
> In a message dated 1/10/01 12:56:39 PM, pcleary@ican.net writes:
>
> << Thats Scouse Vebiage... >>
>
> Huh?
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 16:33:46 EST
Subject: Re: What's a Pillick?
In a message dated 1/10/01 4:24:41 PM Eastern Standard Time,
peterhunt@freechariot.co.uk writes:
<< Unable to find the word "pillick" in the Concise Oxford Dictionary >>
Perhaps it is pidgeon-chinese for a certain male appendage?
Best--Michael
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 16:54:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Re:More Goodies...
Jim,
I diagree. According to the guidelines set down by Mark Bradakis, listing
items for sale or purchase related to the marque is permissible. Personally
I am always curious to see what others have available. I too have listed a
few things in the past and will continue to do so.
As with anything else which does not interest you on this forum, hit the
delete key.
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: James Sailer <sailer@srv.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>; <Trmgafun@aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 10:47 AM
Subject: Re:More Goodies...
>
> The Healey list is NO Place to wheel and deal Scott....... I personnaly
> don't have time to dribble through your money-making adventures while I
try
> to enjoy my hobby.
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 15:20:37 -0700
Subject: Apology RE: More Goodies
Sorry folks. I'll keep my mouth shut. I should know better than to send a
note like that anyway.
Jim Sailer 66 BJ8
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 16:41:35 -0600
Subject: Re: Apology RE: More Goodies
Jim.... your just a class act.... it wasn't needed but thanks anyway....
Keith
----------
> From: James Sailer <sailer@srv.net>
> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Apology RE: More Goodies
> Date: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 4:20 PM
>
>
> Sorry folks. I'll keep my mouth shut. I should know better than to send
a
> note like that anyway.
>
> Jim Sailer 66 BJ8
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 09:48:00 +1100
Subject: Re: What's a Pillick?
G'day
I really can't resist this.
The English language sure is fascinating as it can be used in so many ways
to
describe so many things and it changes everyday.
The correct spelling of the word is Pillock and it has its origins in old
English. If my memory is correct the Fool in Shakespear's King Lear says
"Pillicock sat on Pillicock Hill." Old Bill often used the fool in his plays
to speak the truth when all the main players were blind to it.
The word comes from pillory which is a wooden framework with holes for head
and hands of an offender to be exposed for public ridicule.
During the 19th century a common abuse was to call someone a 'pill' meaning
that the person was a dill, fool or idiot.
So my friends you have been called fools, idiots or the like.
Here in Australia I would have used a number of different words like drongo,
galah, wanker, dill, air head or dork any of which would have been just as
appropriate as pillock.
English is wonderful and like our Healeys and Austin-Healeys also came from
England with a odd Latin input here and there.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 16:57:17 -0600
Subject: Re: Color code for Primrose Yellow.
YL.3
----- Original Message -----
From: David Neale <dneale@pacbell.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Color code for Primrose Yellow.
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 04:05:23 -0800
Does anyone have the correct code code for the color "Primrose Yellow".
Thank you
DAVID NEALE
BN7
BJ8
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 17:00:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Wheels
dayton wire wheels have stainless steel spokes.
----- Original Message -----
From: MossHale@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Wheels
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 11:02:21 EST
Sometime ads indicate cars as having stainless wire wheels but I've not found
any reference to such on the internet, only the painted or chrome ones. Has
anyone a reference to such an item?
Thanks
Hale Castleman 59 BN7 3422
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 17:24:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Original vs. Repro 100-M Cold Air Box
> > I would also
> >mention my original never had a Lemans tag attached and I know at the
very
> >least it was on the car as far back as 1960. The engine hood was not
> >louvered so I have always assumed it was a Kit.
A good friend and local enthusiast Ken Martin, who has since passed away,
purchased his BN2 in Feb.1956 from the local dealer. About a year later, he
returned to the dealership and purchased the Lemans camshaft, the
distributor, the carbs, manifolds and cold air box, and bought a second
complete cylinder head, which he had installed by the dealer. Ken didn't
care about the louvered bonnet or strap; he just wanted the "go better
stuff". Apparently, with the cold air box kit he got the little Lemans tag
in a small brown envelope. He was told by the dealer that he could put it
wherever he wants. Since he didn't really want to drill holes into the air
box, he left the little tag in its envelope on the parcel tray for the next
31 years!
I helped him service his low mileage car (31500 miles about 1986) and found
same still sitting in a corner of the parcel tray.
Bottom line seems to be that you could go in and purchase whatever "Lemans"
parts you wanted from a B.M.C. dealer and install them yourself or have them
installed for you, be it at Donald Healey's factory in Warwick, the dealer,
or Joe's Corner Garage in Lower Dogpatch, Arkansas!
Further, according to the BN1 Special Tuning publication printed in 1954,
these parts which LATER became referred to as "Lemans" parts, were simply
performance items one could buy and put on their Healey. Nothing mystic or
hallowed there!
Rich Chrysler
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 17:16:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Color code used for the Yellow Rad fans.
krylon john deere yellow is nice and bright.
----- Original Message -----
From: njones@amadeus.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Color code used for the Yellow Rad fans.
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 13:53:42 +0100
Would anyone have the correct color(colour) code for the 3000 radiator fan.
Thanks in advance.
From "Hatcher, Bob" <hatcher at shoalhaven.nsw.gov.au>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 10:19:08 +1100
Subject: FW: What's a Pillick? - no Healey content
I'm not sure if the list will really want to know this one.
The Shorter Oxford gives two meanings for the word "pillock" and the second
meaning is the one that I have heard before, namely "A stupid person, a
fool. Frequently used as a term of mild abuse".
Now, for the first meaning of the word, "A contraction of the word
"pillicock" which means, the penis, used as a term of endearment for a young
boy".
Well, I guess someone wanted to know.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, 11 January 2001 3:55 AM
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: What's a Pillick?
In a message dated 1/9/01 7:35:01 PM, pcleary@ican.net writes:
<<
I might be new to this list, but boy theres some pillicks here. >>
Boy, that's a new one on me. I know about "anoraks," "train spotters," and
the meaning of "naff," but never heard of a pillick!
Cheers
Gary
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 17:27:00 -0600
Subject: Re: What's a Pillick?
Hi Patrick
In looking through my Oxford Concise and through Fowlers the following
definition is given:
pillock Britt sl. a stupid person; a fool. {16th century = penis (var of
pillicock): 20th century in sense }
So Gary the Yiddish expression I used as correct. Patrick, when Margaret used
to stop at the Wildlife Service, and I was out of my office, she spent her time
going through the three dictionaries and Fowlers on my desk...she would agree
with you that the language is fascinating, the origins of words and change in
usage all add to its charm.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
"Quinn, Patrick" wrote:
> G'day
>
> I really can't resist this.
>
> The English language sure is fascinating as it can be used in so many ways
> to
> describe so many things and it changes everyday.
>
> The correct spelling of the word is Pillock and it has its origins in old
> English. If my memory is correct the Fool in Shakespear's King Lear says
> "Pillicock sat on Pillicock Hill." Old Bill often used the fool in his plays
> to speak the truth when all the main players were blind to it.
>
> The word comes from pillory which is a wooden framework with holes for head
> and hands of an offender to be exposed for public ridicule.
>
> During the 19th century a common abuse was to call someone a 'pill' meaning
> that the person was a dill, fool or idiot.
>
> So my friends you have been called fools, idiots or the like.
>
> Here in Australia I would have used a number of different words like drongo,
> galah, wanker, dill, air head or dork any of which would have been just as
> appropriate as pillock.
>
> English is wonderful and like our Healeys and Austin-Healeys also came from
> England with a odd Latin input here and there.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 17:30:17 -0600
Subject: Re: Color code used for the Yellow Rad fans.
Hi Jerry
This is what I used on my Texas kooler and it looks great.
Kind regards
Ed
Jerry Wall wrote:
> krylon john deere yellow is nice and bright.
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: njones@amadeus.net
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Color code used for the Yellow Rad fans.
> Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 13:53:42 +0100
>
>
> Would anyone have the correct color(colour) code for the 3000 radiator fan.
>
> Thanks in advance.
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 18:15:28 -0600
Subject: Re: Color code for Primrose Yellow.
Hi David,
PPG # is 81139. ---Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Neale" <dneale@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 6:05 AM
Subject: Re: Color code for Primrose Yellow.
>
> Does anyone have the correct code code for the color "Primrose Yellow".
>
> Thank you
>
> DAVID NEALE
> BN7
> BJ8
From Mike Blair <blimpie at digisys.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 19:00:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Wheels
Dayton or Dunlop wheels? Anybody have a preference?
TIA
Mike
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 17:35:27 -0800
Subject: Re: What's a Pillick?
Patrick, well done....Neil, Vancouver B.C. Canada eh!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 2:48 PM
Subject: Re: What's a Pillick?
>
> G'day
>
> I really can't resist this.
>
> The English language sure is fascinating as it can be used in so many ways
> to
> describe so many things and it changes everyday.
>
> The correct spelling of the word is Pillock and it has its origins in old
> English. If my memory is correct the Fool in Shakespear's King Lear says
> "Pillicock sat on Pillicock Hill." Old Bill often used the fool in his
plays
> to speak the truth when all the main players were blind to it.
>
> The word comes from pillory which is a wooden framework with holes for
head
> and hands of an offender to be exposed for public ridicule.
>
> During the 19th century a common abuse was to call someone a 'pill'
meaning
> that the person was a dill, fool or idiot.
>
> So my friends you have been called fools, idiots or the like.
>
> Here in Australia I would have used a number of different words like
drongo,
> galah, wanker, dill, air head or dork any of which would have been just as
> appropriate as pillock.
>
> English is wonderful and like our Healeys and Austin-Healeys also came
from
> England with a odd Latin input here and there.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 17:41:02 -0800
Subject: Re: What's a Pillick? - no Healey content
Some may think we don't read all these posts. Fact is they are scrutinized
to the enth degree....right down to the "pillock" or was that
"pillicock"....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hatcher, Bob" <hatcher@shoalhaven.nsw.gov.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 3:19 PM
Subject: FW: What's a Pillick? - no Healey content
>
> I'm not sure if the list will really want to know this one.
> The Shorter Oxford gives two meanings for the word "pillock" and the
second
> meaning is the one that I have heard before, namely "A stupid person, a
> fool. Frequently used as a term of mild abuse".
> Now, for the first meaning of the word, "A contraction of the word
> "pillicock" which means, the penis, used as a term of endearment for a
young
> boy".
> Well, I guess someone wanted to know.
> Bob
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, 11 January 2001 3:55 AM
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: What's a Pillick?
>
>
> In a message dated 1/9/01 7:35:01 PM, pcleary@ican.net writes:
>
> <<
> I might be new to this list, but boy theres some pillicks here. >>
> Boy, that's a new one on me. I know about "anoraks," "train spotters,"
and
> the meaning of "naff," but never heard of a pillick!
> Cheers
> Gary
From busyrider at springmail.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 22:08:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: Wheels
Yes,
Borranni
Crazy Fred Criswell
On Wed, 10 Jan 2001 19:00:01 -0700 Mike Blair <blimpie@digisys.net> wrote:
Dayton or Dunlop wheels? Anybody have a preference?
TIA
Mike
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 22:07:37 -0800
Subject: Re: Response to Steve Byers
That should be "too" serious. Ray fixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Benkovic <jjbank@sprintmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 8:33 AM
Subject: Response to Steve Byers
>
> Steve I own a Phase 1 BJ8 (HBJ8L25805). I purchased it in 11/97. It is in
good
> condition.
> I purchased the car in the restored condition. Just a comment to the
negative
> feedback on the spelling of concours and marque.
> If you have Microsoft Outlook it will try to correct the spelling as I
have
> typed above. So what if people spell wrong. We are not in High school
English.
> Some people take it to serious, don't you think
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 22:16:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Wheels
Listers:
Are the stainless steel spokes chromed? or is that a dumb question?
Ron Rader
"AH102@home.com" wrote:
> Dayton makes chrome wire wheels with stainless steel spokes. They are
> available from (among others) British Wire Wheel on the West Coast, and
> Hendrix on the East Coast.
>
> Jim
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <MossHale@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 11:02 AM
> Subject: Wheels
>
> >
> > Sometime ads indicate cars as having stainless wire wheels but I've not
> found
> > any reference to such on the internet, only the painted or chrome ones.
> Has
> > anyone a reference to such an item?
> > Thanks
> > Hale Castleman 59 BN7 3422
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 23:15:10 -0700
Subject: Re: More Goodies...
Yeah, We have covered this topic ad infinitum. The last I heard it was agreed
that such limited activity was all right. Personally I find the arguments more
disturbing than the ads.
Bill Lawrence
Brian Mix wrote:
> Hold on a minute. Yes, digital multimeters my not seem like a item for a car
> built before transistors, but I got one, at a killer price, and I do use it on
> my Healey. Is your battery charging???
>
> Trying to keep the smoke IN the wires,
> Brian
> http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
>
> James Sailer wrote:
>
> > The Healey list is NO Place to wheel and deal Scott....... I personnaly
> > don't have time to dribble through your money-making adventures while I try
> > to enjoy my hobby.
> >
> > Jim Sailer
> > 66 BJ8
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 22:22:06 -0800
Subject: Re: Ex Works Car SMO 744
Is that price in Lira?
ron
WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> I seem to remember some discussion about some of these cars, and the SMO 744
> was mentioned. I just found it for sale through the Healey Factory in
> Melbourne. http://www.healeyfactory.com.au/showroom.html
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 01:24:53 EST
Subject: Re: Response to Steve Byers
In a message dated 1/11/01 1:09:29 AM Eastern Standard Time,
feehanr@cadvision.com writes:
<< That should be "too" serious. >>
Ray:
Adverbs modify verbs, adjectives modify nouns. Therefore, it should be "too
seriously", n'est pas?
Michael Oritt
From Alex Hope <ahope at jaques.com.au>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 17:42:34 +1100
Subject: RE: Ex Works Car SMO 744
I think A$ 235,000 (US$ 131,000) is the asking price.
Alex Hope
Australia
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ron Rader [SMTP:rader@interworld.net]
> Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 4:22 PM
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Ex Works Car SMO 744
>
>
> Is that price in Lira?
> ron
>
> WilKo@aol.com wrote:
>
> > I seem to remember some discussion about some of these cars, and the
> SMO 744
> > was mentioned. I just found it for sale through the Healey Factory
> in
> > Melbourne. http://www.healeyfactory.com.au/showroom.html
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 17:15:43 +1000
Subject: Re: Ex Works Car SMO 744
That price is in Australian dollars but at the current exchange rate it
might as well be Lira.
Greg
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, 11 January 2001 4:22
Subject: Re: Ex Works Car SMO 744
>
> Is that price in Lira?
> ron
>
> WilKo@aol.com wrote:
>
> > I seem to remember some discussion about some of these cars, and the SMO
744
> > was mentioned. I just found it for sale through the Healey Factory in
> > Melbourne. http://www.healeyfactory.com.au/showroom.html
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 00:08:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Response to Steve Byers
Maudit, even I don't know everything. Qu'ell dolor.
RayfixitanddriveitandkeepmystupidremarkstomyselfFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <feehanr@cadvision.com>; <jjbank@sprintmail.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 10:24 PM
Subject: Re: Response to Steve Byers
> In a message dated 1/11/01 1:09:29 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> feehanr@cadvision.com writes:
>
> << That should be "too" serious. >>
>
> Ray:
>
> Adverbs modify verbs, adjectives modify nouns. Therefore, it should be
"too
> seriously", n'est pas?
>
> Michael Oritt
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 00:12:12 -0800
Subject: Re: Wheels
No, they are just polished. British Wire Wheel also used to sell a special
"show polish" version of the spokes, but they no longer do.
bk
-----------------------------------
At 10:16 PM 1/10/2001, Ron Rader wrote:
>Listers:
>Are the stainless steel spokes chromed? or is that a dumb question?
>Ron Rader
>
>"AH102@home.com" wrote:
>
> > Dayton makes chrome wire wheels with stainless steel spokes. They are
> > available from (among others) British Wire Wheel on the West Coast, and
> > Hendrix on the East Coast.
> >
> > Jim
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <MossHale@aol.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 11:02 AM
> > Subject: Wheels
> >
> > >
> > > Sometime ads indicate cars as having stainless wire wheels but I've not
> > found
> > > any reference to such on the internet, only the painted or chrome ones.
> > Has
> > > anyone a reference to such an item?
> > > Thanks
> > > Hale Castleman 59 BN7 3422
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 05:21:57 -0500
Subject: Update on BJ8 Mechanical Rebuild
What started to be a routine engine rebuild has turned, by choice, into a
major mechanical rebuild. The list includes new front coil springs, one new
rear shock, pulling the rear diff and installing a new gasket, new brake
lines, new front shock mount, rebuilt generator and starter, scuttle shake
mod, engine rear main oil seal, carbs rebuild, new exhaust system, new motor
mounts, new clutch, wiring rewrapped, brake and clutch cylinders rebuilt,
several wheel cylinders rebuilt, new brake servo (never used one before),
radiator completely taken apart, totally cleaned and a few patch jobs on it,
and a lot of other adds and ends.
I added the ANSA muffler system, and it looks great---I expecially like the
chrome extenders sticking out the back. Can't wait to hear it.
This is the first time I have done this kind of major work on it----hope it
lasts another 35 years.
Regards
Tom
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 11:16:46 -0000
Subject: RE: What's a Pillick?
Come along Patrick. Enlarge(!) on the connection between being a
pillicock and "wanker".
Simon.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
> M.E.&E.A. Driver
> Sent: 10 January 2001 23:27
> To: Quinn, Patrick
> Cc: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: What's a Pillick?
>
>
>
> Hi Patrick
>
> In looking through my Oxford Concise and through
> Fowlers the following
> definition is given:
>
> pillock Britt sl. a stupid person; a fool. {16th
> century = penis (var of
> pillicock): 20th century in sense }
>
> So Gary the Yiddish expression I used as correct.
> Patrick, when Margaret used
> to stop at the Wildlife Service, and I was out of my
> office, she spent her time
> going through the three dictionaries and Fowlers on my
> desk...she would agree
> with you that the language is fascinating, the origins
> of words and change in
> usage all add to its charm.
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon
>
>
> "Quinn, Patrick" wrote:
>
> > G'day
> >
> > I really can't resist this.
> >
> > The English language sure is fascinating as it can
> be used in so many ways
> > to
> > describe so many things and it changes everyday.
> >
> > The correct spelling of the word is Pillock and it
> has its origins in old
> > English. If my memory is correct the Fool in
> Shakespear's King Lear says
> > "Pillicock sat on Pillicock Hill." Old Bill often
> used the fool in his plays
> > to speak the truth when all the main players were
> blind to it.
> >
> > The word comes from pillory which is a wooden
> framework with holes for head
> > and hands of an offender to be exposed for public ridicule.
> >
> > During the 19th century a common abuse was to call
> someone a 'pill' meaning
> > that the person was a dill, fool or idiot.
> >
> > So my friends you have been called fools, idiots or the like.
> >
> > Here in Australia I would have used a number of
> different words like drongo,
> > galah, wanker, dill, air head or dork any of which
> would have been just as
> > appropriate as pillock.
> >
> > English is wonderful and like our Healeys and
> Austin-Healeys also came from
> > England with a odd Latin input here and there.
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Patrick Quinn
> > Sydney, Australia
> >
> > 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
> > 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 07:12:45 -0500
Subject: Re: What's a Pillick?
While we're at it, can anyone tell me the technical definition of a
"git"? As in "snivelling little rat-faced git"?
Doug, 18G
----- Original Message -----
From: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk>
To: M.E.&E.A. Driver <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>; Quinn, Patrick
<Patrick.QUINN@det.nsw.edu.au>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 6:16 AM
Subject: RE: What's a Pillick?
>
> Come along Patrick. Enlarge(!) on the connection between being a
> pillicock and "wanker".
>
>
> Simon.
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 22:44:48 +0800
Subject: carpet underlay
Hi All
Enough of English lessons.
Could someone advise what type of carpet underlay was originally used in the
3000's and what is used in restorations now?
TIA
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 nearly there
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 10:37:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Wheels
Chrome plating causes 'hydrogen embrittlement' - not good for parts
that are stressed/strained to the extent wheel spokes experience.
Chrome plated spokes break unless heat treated after plating to cook
out the H2. The extra steps required add to the cost and possibility
of liability. Not good. The right SS alloy does it all -- color,
strength, corrosion resistance - with the same mfg steps.
Ed A
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: Ron Rader <rader@interworld.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, January 11, 2001 3:15 AM
Subject: Re: Wheels
>
>No, they are just polished. British Wire Wheel also used to sell a
special
>"show polish" version of the spokes, but they no longer do.
>
>bk
>-----------------------------------
>At 10:16 PM 1/10/2001, Ron Rader wrote:
>
>>Listers:
>>Are the stainless steel spokes chromed? or is that a dumb question?
>>Ron Rader
>>
>>"AH102@home.com" wrote:
>>
>> > Dayton makes chrome wire wheels with stainless steel spokes.
They are
>> > available from (among others) British Wire Wheel on the West
Coast, and
>> > Hendrix on the East Coast.
>> >
>> > Jim
>> >
>> > ----- Original Message -----
>> > From: <MossHale@aol.com>
>> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> > Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 11:02 AM
>> > Subject: Wheels
>> >
>> > >
>> > > Sometime ads indicate cars as having stainless wire wheels but
I've not
>> > found
>> > > any reference to such on the internet, only the painted or
chrome ones.
>> > Has
>> > > anyone a reference to such an item?
>> > > Thanks
>> > > Hale Castleman 59 BN7 3422
From "Mike Goode" <mgoode at netjets.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 09:44:47 -0700
Subject: BJ8 Miss
Listers:
I have a BJ8/40462 that I purchased last May. It is in super shape
with a total engine rebuild done 10 years ago and 10,000 miles since
then. PO said he had the carbs rebuilt with the engine.
My problem is that I have a slight miss at 2500-3000 rpm both constant
throttle and accelerating....Just enough to be bothersome. It then
smoothes out above 3000. I have checked the vacuum advance with a
strobe and it looks good, adjusted the mixture on the carbs numerous
times, added dashpot oil, checked the plugs for burn and regapped them
to .035...what else am I missing? He put on a sport coil and installed
breakerless ignition.
PO thinks the carbs need rebuilding. He thinks there is some air
getting by the bushings on the spindle. Think this might be the
problem? I bought the Master rebuild kit from Moss and it looks like
it is not too difficult. Any tricks or "gotchas" I need to know if I
go that way?
Wow do I love driving this car! AZ is great a great place for a
Healey.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Best Wishes,
Mike Goode
BJ8/40462
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 11:48:08 EST
Subject: Re: Wheels
In a message dated 1/10/01 6:08:06 PM, blimpie@digisys.net writes:
<< Dayton or Dunlop wheels? Anybody have a preference?
TIA
Mike >>
For info -- On the one hand, British Wire Wheel is no longer stocking Dunlop
wheels. I believe Hendrix still has them. On the other hand, the Dayton
wheels do not have the same appearance as the Dunlop wheels and can incur a
very small deduction in concours judging.
Cheers
Gary
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 08:48:37 -0800
Subject: Re: Wheels
Only thing I'd add here is that you CAN see a difference in the materials
between the chrome rims and SS spokes. Some people find it objectionable,
others can live with it.
-----------------------
At 07:37 AM 1/11/2001, you wrote:
>Chrome plating causes 'hydrogen embrittlement' - not good for parts
>that are stressed/strained to the extent wheel spokes experience.
>Chrome plated spokes break unless heat treated after plating to cook
>out the H2. The extra steps required add to the cost and possibility
>of liability. Not good. The right SS alloy does it all -- color,
>strength, corrosion resistance - with the same mfg steps.
>
>Ed A
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
>To: Ron Rader <rader@interworld.net>
>Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Date: Thursday, January 11, 2001 3:15 AM
>Subject: Re: Wheels
>
>
> >
> >No, they are just polished. British Wire Wheel also used to sell a
>special
> >"show polish" version of the spokes, but they no longer do.
> >
> >bk
> >-----------------------------------
> >At 10:16 PM 1/10/2001, Ron Rader wrote:
> >
> >>Listers:
> >>Are the stainless steel spokes chromed? or is that a dumb question?
> >>Ron Rader
> >>
> >>"AH102@home.com" wrote:
> >>
> >> > Dayton makes chrome wire wheels with stainless steel spokes.
>They are
> >> > available from (among others) British Wire Wheel on the West
>Coast, and
> >> > Hendrix on the East Coast.
> >> >
> >> > Jim
> >> >
> >> > ----- Original Message -----
> >> > From: <MossHale@aol.com>
> >> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >> > Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 11:02 AM
> >> > Subject: Wheels
> >> >
> >> > >
> >> > > Sometime ads indicate cars as having stainless wire wheels but
>I've not
> >> > found
> >> > > any reference to such on the internet, only the painted or
>chrome ones.
> >> > Has
> >> > > anyone a reference to such an item?
> >> > > Thanks
> >> > > Hale Castleman 59 BN7 3422
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 09:03:49 -0800
Subject: RE: Re: Wheels
I once saw a Healy with 16" Borrannis on it, Wow, the rims were
polished and the deep dish look really made the car look exotic
That vision is what prompted me to get the 70 spoke, well-laced,
Cobra-style, Daytons from Bruce at British Wire Wheel.....
John Pagel
Data Manager
Tel: (916) 265-4230
john.pagel@iMotors.com
-----Original Message-----
From: busyrider@springmail.com [mailto:busyrider@springmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 7:09 PM
To: Mike Blair
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: Re: Wheels
Yes,
Borranni
Crazy Fred Criswell
On Wed, 10 Jan 2001 19:00:01 -0700 Mike Blair <blimpie@digisys.net> wrote:
Dayton or Dunlop wheels? Anybody have a preference?
TIA
Mike
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 12:10:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Wheels
True, it got past me while trying to remember back 35 years to when I
worked for GM. If I delve deeply enough into the correct neurons, SS
spokes will have a yellow cast, probably from the nickel content,
while chrome is blue in comparison.
Ed A
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, January 11, 2001 11:57 AM
Subject: Re: Wheels
>
>Only thing I'd add here is that you CAN see a difference in the
materials
>between the chrome rims and SS spokes. Some people find it
objectionable,
>others can live with it.
>
>-----------------------
>At 07:37 AM 1/11/2001, you wrote:
>
>>Chrome plating causes 'hydrogen embrittlement' - not good for
parts
>>that are stressed/strained to the extent wheel spokes experience.
>>Chrome plated spokes break unless heat treated after plating to cook
>>out the H2. The extra steps required add to the cost and
possibility
>>of liability. Not good. The right SS alloy does it all -- color,
>>strength, corrosion resistance - with the same mfg steps.
>>
>>Ed A
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
>>To: Ron Rader <rader@interworld.net>
>>Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
>>Date: Thursday, January 11, 2001 3:15 AM
>>Subject: Re: Wheels
>>
>>
>> >
>> >No, they are just polished. British Wire Wheel also used to sell a
>>special
>> >"show polish" version of the spokes, but they no longer do.
>> >
>> >bk
>> >-----------------------------------
>> >At 10:16 PM 1/10/2001, Ron Rader wrote:
>> >
>> >>Listers:
>> >>Are the stainless steel spokes chromed? or is that a dumb
question?
>> >>Ron Rader
>> >>
>> >>"AH102@home.com" wrote:
>> >>
>> >> > Dayton makes chrome wire wheels with stainless steel spokes.
>>They are
>> >> > available from (among others) British Wire Wheel on the West
>>Coast, and
>> >> > Hendrix on the East Coast.
>> >> >
>> >> > Jim
>> >> >
>> >> > ----- Original Message -----
>> >> > From: <MossHale@aol.com>
>> >> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> >> > Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 11:02 AM
>> >> > Subject: Wheels
>> >> >
>> >> > >
>> >> > > Sometime ads indicate cars as having stainless wire wheels
but
>>I've not
>> >> > found
>> >> > > any reference to such on the internet, only the painted or
>>chrome ones.
>> >> > Has
>> >> > > anyone a reference to such an item?
>> >> > > Thanks
>> >> > > Hale Castleman 59 BN7 3422
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 12:21:28 EST
Subject: Re: carpet underlay
Originally, the carpets had a "jute" underlay -- a thickly woven fibre
padding -- which was coated on one side with a thin layer of tar-like
material similar to that used to undercoat American cars. The coating had a
surface texture that looked as if it had been pressed against a woven piece
of cloth.
This underlay is still available from some of the custom suppliers, but most
standard kits supply a pad made of pressed-together bits of recycled foam
rubber.
Instead of either, many people recommend that you find foil-coated
bubble-wrap insulating padding, like that used in airplane cockpits (some
people have said that you can buy it in sheets at home supply stores). If you
buy padding that is about the same thickness as the underlay, you can glue it
to all surfaces that are covered by glued carpet. Then, if you want to
retain originality looks, you can put jute underlay just under the front
carpets in front of the seats, and under the tranny cover carpet, since these
are the only carpets that can be removed easily.
Hope that helps.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Chairman, AH Concours Registry
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 09:30:29 -0800
Subject: RE: Re: Wheels
Yes I misspelled Healey, sorry, I was typing fast. Before the
flames start... Does this make me a Pilliock?
John Pagel
Data Manager
Tel: (916) 265-4230
john.pagel@iMotors.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Pagel, John
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 9:04 AM
Cc: Healey List
Subject: RE: Re: Wheels
I once saw a Healy with 16" Borrannis on it, Wow, the rims were
polished and the deep dish look really made the car look exotic
That vision is what prompted me to get the 70 spoke, well-laced,
Cobra-style, Daytons from Bruce at British Wire Wheel.....
John Pagel
Data Manager
Tel: (916) 265-4230
john.pagel@iMotors.com
-----Original Message-----
From: busyrider@springmail.com [mailto:busyrider@springmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 7:09 PM
To: Mike Blair
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: Re: Wheels
Yes,
Borranni
Crazy Fred Criswell
On Wed, 10 Jan 2001 19:00:01 -0700 Mike Blair <blimpie@digisys.net> wrote:
Dayton or Dunlop wheels? Anybody have a preference?
TIA
Mike
From TC <tm-c at gmx.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 19:37:36 +0100
Subject: How to keep the tyres black
Hi Listers,
I ran over a nail recently, punctured a tyre and thus put on the spare
wheel.
The spare tyre was original black and nicely shining while the remaining
three
looked as though they just finished in 80 days around the world.
(And I do clean then form time to time)
Now what is the best way to bring the original colour back and keep them
that way?
Thomas Cremer
467 BJ8
From TC <tm-c at gmx.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 19:30:48 +0100
Subject: RE: BJ8 Miss
Mike,
had the same thing last year (at about the same RPM) which delveloped
over time from a slight miss into a major coughing and spitting display.
It was a tiny crack in the distributor. Replaced it and at the same time
switched to an electronic ignition system.
Everything fine now and in future one thing less to worry about.
Hope this helps.
Thomas Cremer
467 BJ8
From "Mike Goode" <mlgoode at msn.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 11:52:50 -0700
Subject: Re: How to keep the tyres black
I use a product called "Wet n Black" from Turtle Wax. Seems to hold up
well..easy to apply. I got it at Wal-Mart or Target.
Mike Goode
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "TC" <tm-c@gmx.net>
To: "Healey Chat" <healeys@autox.team.net>;
<healeys-owner@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 11:37 AM
Subject: How to keep the tyres black
Hi Listers,
I ran over a nail recently, punctured a tyre and thus put on the spare
wheel.
The spare tyre was original black and nicely shining while the
remaining
three
looked as though they just finished in 80 days around the world.
(And I do clean then form time to time)
Now what is the best way to bring the original colour back and keep
them
that way?
Thomas Cremer
467 BJ8
From Fred Hunter <fhunter at kcnet.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 13:29:58 -0600
Subject: Healey History
All:
For those interested in historical side-notes, the following is a
portion of a communication I recently had with a friend in England who
is assisting with some of the on-going research into Millie's history.
The Warwick factory entered Millie in the 1953 Goodwood 9-Hour endurance
event and was rewarded with a 10th overall with Johnny Lockett and Ken
Rudd up. The following conversation has to do with a little side show
that took place a few weeks PRIOR to the race, and my friends' recent
discovery of pictorial evidence about the actual car involved:
correspondent:
> (iv) By chance two nights ago I turned up a picture of NOJ 391 (ie "Millie")
>at
> Goodwood on 30th July 1953 and the photograph shows Donald Healey
showing a
> young Duke of Edinburgh over the car. So you may even have had a Royal
butt in
> Millie on that day. I am awaiting a copy of the photo in electronic format
>which
> I will send to you. As it was a few weeks before the Nine Hours it may have
been
> a practice day - except that the place looks deserted and you don't normally
> invite Prince Phillip to a test session. Any ideas?
Fred:
Fascinating! After reading the above, I recall from dim memory reading
an account by Geoff Healey (I think) of how he was summoned to take a
Healey...I thought he was referring to a production 100/4...to
Sandringham or Buckingham Palace for viewing by 'someone' in the Royal
family. He mentions how he washed the car with a bucket and sponge just
before presenting himself there. I just did a quick check of about 8
books and was unable to turn up the reference. But I will, given time.
I'm also not sure that it has anything at all to do with your finding
above. Except to show that even the Royals were smitten with these
amazing cars. I anxiously await a copy of the pic you've turned up!
All this would have been just about the time HRH was doing his pilot
training, wouldn't it? Seems it's a constant the world over: All young
lions who fly seem to need a flashy, sporting conveyance for their
personal transportation requirements, eh? Royals no exception. I
wonder: What car (or cars) DID Prince Philip drive when he was a young
man in the mid-50's? Interesting ones, I should think.
--FLASH-- Found it! It was Bic, not Geoff. See p.148, DONALD HEALEY,
MY WORLD OF CARS. Tells the circumstances regarding the pic you found!
The Duke of Edinburgh, the Duke of Richmond, and General Sir Frederick
Browning. And yes, the pic you've found seems to confirm that it WAS
Millie!
It's just downright amazing: this has been happening over and
over for the last 30 years--each time I turn up something new about
Millie, I think to myself, "Now surely, this must be all; this must be
everything about this car; there can't possibly be any more". And each
time, I've been wrong, happily.
Best regards,
Fred
The place to pass
On curves
You know
Is only at
A beauty show
--Burma-Shave--
From "Stephen Graham" <stepheng48 at home.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 15:16:12 -0800
Subject: New Gas tank/best price
Anyone bought a new gas tank lately? I have a 61 BT7, and am looking for a
good deal.
Thanks
Stephen
MI
From "Ron Yates" <dipstickdigest at ctaz.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 13:41:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Re: Wheels
No, but you left yourself open to other possibilities.
----- Original Message -----
From: Pagel, John <John.Pagel@imotors.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 10:30 AM
Subject: RE: Re: Wheels
>
> Yes I misspelled Healey, sorry, I was typing fast. Before the
> flames start... Does this make me a Pilliock?
>
> John Pagel
> Data Manager
> Tel: (916) 265-4230
> john.pagel@iMotors.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Pagel, John
> Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 9:04 AM
> Cc: Healey List
> Subject: RE: Re: Wheels
>
>
> I once saw a Healy with 16" Borrannis on it, Wow, the rims were
> polished and the deep dish look really made the car look exotic
>
> That vision is what prompted me to get the 70 spoke, well-laced,
> Cobra-style, Daytons from Bruce at British Wire Wheel.....
>
> John Pagel
> Data Manager
> Tel: (916) 265-4230
> john.pagel@iMotors.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: busyrider@springmail.com [mailto:busyrider@springmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 7:09 PM
> To: Mike Blair
> Cc: Healey List
> Subject: Re: Re: Wheels
>
>
> Yes,
>
> Borranni
>
> Crazy Fred Criswell
>
> On Wed, 10 Jan 2001 19:00:01 -0700 Mike Blair <blimpie@digisys.net> wrote:
>
>
> Dayton or Dunlop wheels? Anybody have a preference?
>
> TIA
> Mike
From "Peter Hunt" <peterhunt at freechariot.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 22:06:18 -0000
Subject: Re: BJ8 Miss
Mike,
Vehicle electrics have never been my strong point so I won't put forward any
theories as to your engine problem - except one.
The BMC Workshop Manual states that the spark plug gap should be
.024 to.026 ins, not .035 in. Probably this will not make any difference but
who knows ?
I may be "old fashioned" but I do not believe in changing anything on the
Healey unless it is for a specific reason or requirement. So out goes the
sports coil, breakerless ignition, 5 speed gearboxes etc. etc. One of the
outstanding points of a Big Healey is the overdrive on 3rd & 4th - there is
nothing to touch it, especially with correctly adjusted kickdown. When you
are pulling 4,500/5,000 rpm in 3rd on gravel roads and using overdrive, you
are then really starting to know what the Best British Sports Car in the
World can do.
The message behind this is - re-build and service the vehicle according to
the manual and it shouldn't let you down.
Peter
ATW2000
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Goode" <mgoode@netjets.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 4:44 PM
Subject: BJ8 Miss
>
> Listers:
>
> I have a BJ8/40462 that I purchased last May. It is in super shape
> with a total engine rebuild done 10 years ago and 10,000 miles since
> then. PO said he had the carbs rebuilt with the engine.
>
> My problem is that I have a slight miss at 2500-3000 rpm both constant
> throttle and accelerating....Just enough to be bothersome. It then
> smoothes out above 3000. I have checked the vacuum advance with a
> strobe and it looks good, adjusted the mixture on the carbs numerous
> times, added dashpot oil, checked the plugs for burn and regapped them
> to .035...what else am I missing? He put on a sport coil and installed
> breakerless ignition.
>
> PO thinks the carbs need rebuilding. He thinks there is some air
> getting by the bushings on the spindle. Think this might be the
> problem? I bought the Master rebuild kit from Moss and it looks like
> it is not too difficult. Any tricks or "gotchas" I need to know if I
> go that way?
>
> Wow do I love driving this car! AZ is great a great place for a
> Healey.
>
> Any ideas would be appreciated.
>
> Best Wishes,
>
> Mike Goode
> BJ8/40462
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 17:07:12 -0500
Subject: Re: New Gas tank/best price
I just got a nice aluminum one from Hemphill's. It was a couple
bucks less than the good steel one. The sender unit was also an
exact fit, unlike some steel tanks I've seen.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen Graham <stepheng48@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 6:16 PM
Subject: New Gas tank/best price
>
> Anyone bought a new gas tank lately? I have a 61 BT7, and am looking for a
> good deal.
>
> Thanks
>
> Stephen
> MI
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 16:08:00 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ8 Miss
Hi Mike,
Try changing the distributor rotor. Some of the ones with a brass rivet
holding down the plate develop an internal crack that can short to the shaft
intermittently. If you have an old one with no rivet, try that. Hope this
helps.
Peter (BMC Restorations)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Goode" <mgoode@netjets.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 10:44 AM
Subject: BJ8 Miss
>
> Listers:
>
> I have a BJ8/40462 that I purchased last May. It is in super shape
> with a total engine rebuild done 10 years ago and 10,000 miles since
> then. PO said he had the carbs rebuilt with the engine.
>
> My problem is that I have a slight miss at 2500-3000 rpm both constant
> throttle and accelerating....Just enough to be bothersome. It then
> smoothes out above 3000. I have checked the vacuum advance with a
> strobe and it looks good, adjusted the mixture on the carbs numerous
> times, added dashpot oil, checked the plugs for burn and regapped them
> to .035...what else am I missing? He put on a sport coil and installed
> breakerless ignition.
>
> PO thinks the carbs need rebuilding. He thinks there is some air
> getting by the bushings on the spindle. Think this might be the
> problem? I bought the Master rebuild kit from Moss and it looks like
> it is not too difficult. Any tricks or "gotchas" I need to know if I
> go that way?
>
> Wow do I love driving this car! AZ is great a great place for a
> Healey.
>
> Any ideas would be appreciated.
>
> Best Wishes,
>
> Mike Goode
> BJ8/40462
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 17:54:49 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Miss
As a point of reference on cheap rotors, my BRAND NEW MOSS rotor cost me
$185 ramp truck charge!!
After I rebuilt my BJ8 engine, like any good car guy I installed new
ignition components. On it's maiden voyage to work and then home again, it
died! At the time I foolishly had not replaced my spares toolbox in the
trunk. Well the new rotor shorted. Right to the shaft...shorting out the
ignition. Before I had time to troubleshoot the problem and figure out a way
to limp home, the state trooper had called the truck. ONE HUNDRED EIGHTY
FIVE BIG ONES!!!
So never forget your spare rotor...and don't buy cheap ones!!!
Dave
64 BJ8
66 TR4A
72 Harley 125 Rapido (don't laugh!)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Brauen" <pbrauen@telepak.net>
To: "Mike Goode" <mgoode@netjets.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 5:08 PM
Subject: Re: BJ8 Miss
>
> Hi Mike,
> Try changing the distributor rotor. Some of the ones with a brass
rivet
> holding down the plate develop an internal crack that can short to the
shaft
> intermittently. If you have an old one with no rivet, try that. Hope this
> helps.
> Peter (BMC Restorations)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Goode" <mgoode@netjets.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 10:44 AM
> Subject: BJ8 Miss
>
>
> >
> > Listers:
> >
> > I have a BJ8/40462 that I purchased last May. It is in super shape
> > with a total engine rebuild done 10 years ago and 10,000 miles since
> > then. PO said he had the carbs rebuilt with the engine.
> >
> > My problem is that I have a slight miss at 2500-3000 rpm both constant
> > throttle and accelerating....Just enough to be bothersome. It then
> > smoothes out above 3000. I have checked the vacuum advance with a
> > strobe and it looks good, adjusted the mixture on the carbs numerous
> > times, added dashpot oil, checked the plugs for burn and regapped them
> > to .035...what else am I missing? He put on a sport coil and installed
> > breakerless ignition.
> >
> > PO thinks the carbs need rebuilding. He thinks there is some air
> > getting by the bushings on the spindle. Think this might be the
> > problem? I bought the Master rebuild kit from Moss and it looks like
> > it is not too difficult. Any tricks or "gotchas" I need to know if I
> > go that way?
> >
> > Wow do I love driving this car! AZ is great a great place for a
> > Healey.
> >
> > Any ideas would be appreciated.
> >
> > Best Wishes,
> >
> > Mike Goode
> > BJ8/40462
From "R. C. Brown" <rcbrown at lucent.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 17:07:50 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ8 Miss
Peter,
Your points on using the "standard" Healey configuration are well
taken. You adventure of some 20K miles around the world this past
summer prove that a pretty standard Healey can provide a fairly
reliable form of transportation.
Bob
Peter Hunt wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> Vehicle electrics have never been my strong point so I won't put forward any
> theories as to your engine problem - except one.
>
> The BMC Workshop Manual states that the spark plug gap should be
> .024 to.026 ins, not .035 in. Probably this will not make any difference but
> who knows ?
>
> I may be "old fashioned" but I do not believe in changing anything on the
> Healey unless it is for a specific reason or requirement. So out goes the
> sports coil, breakerless ignition, 5 speed gearboxes etc. etc. One of the
> outstanding points of a Big Healey is the overdrive on 3rd & 4th - there is
> nothing to touch it, especially with correctly adjusted kickdown. When you
> are pulling 4,500/5,000 rpm in 3rd on gravel roads and using overdrive, you
> are then really starting to know what the Best British Sports Car in the
> World can do.
>
> The message behind this is - re-build and service the vehicle according to
> the manual and it shouldn't let you down.
>
> Peter
> ATW2000
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Goode" <mgoode@netjets.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 4:44 PM
> Subject: BJ8 Miss
>
> >
> > Listers:
> >
> > I have a BJ8/40462 that I purchased last May. It is in super shape
> > with a total engine rebuild done 10 years ago and 10,000 miles since
> > then. PO said he had the carbs rebuilt with the engine.
> >
> > My problem is that I have a slight miss at 2500-3000 rpm both constant
> > throttle and accelerating....Just enough to be bothersome. It then
> > smoothes out above 3000. I have checked the vacuum advance with a
> > strobe and it looks good, adjusted the mixture on the carbs numerous
> > times, added dashpot oil, checked the plugs for burn and regapped them
> > to .035...what else am I missing? He put on a sport coil and installed
> > breakerless ignition.
> >
> > PO thinks the carbs need rebuilding. He thinks there is some air
> > getting by the bushings on the spindle. Think this might be the
> > problem? I bought the Master rebuild kit from Moss and it looks like
> > it is not too difficult. Any tricks or "gotchas" I need to know if I
> > go that way?
> >
> > Wow do I love driving this car! AZ is great a great place for a
> > Healey.
> >
> > Any ideas would be appreciated.
> >
> > Best Wishes,
> >
> > Mike Goode
> > BJ8/40462
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 18:15:40 EST
Subject: wire wheel condom
I know there is a "rubber" that goes around the outside of a wire wheel, I
presume to keep the inner tube from rubbing on the inner spoke nipples, I see
that they are available at 20 bucks per, can I just put a wrap of duct tape
around the wheel? Will I lose concours points? Just trying to save a buck or
two. Thanks, Scott.
BN4
280ZX
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 18:18:15 EST
Subject: Re: Wheels
Dayton or Dunlop wheels? Anybody have a preference?
I once put all my various wheels next to each other so a Healey owner could
decide which wheels to order. The Dayton has a noticeably larger central hub
than the Dunlop. The Stainless spokes did not have the depth of shine that
chrome spokes offer.
As far as chrome spoke breakage, In 1984 one of our club members spent an
extended stay in England and we all gave him our credit card numbers and a
list of things to buy. Several people ordered 60 spoke wheels, Dunlop chrome
with chrome spokes. All have had to have their wheels rebuilt since, mostly
do to breaking spokes. I purchased the 72 spoke chrome Dunlop's and have
abused my cars ten times what the sixty spoke people do and have never
suffered a failure.
For a driver I would recommend the seventy-two spoke wheels from Dayton for
the toughest wheel. If originality is very important stick with Dunlop
because you can tell a difference in appearance
My .02.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
Visit my Bluegrass Austin Healey Club site at bluegrassclub.com
And visit my British Sports Car Club of KY site at britishsportscarclub.com.
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 18:54:45 -0500
Subject: Re: wire wheel condom
Yeah, we devil judges insist on removing all the wheels and tubes right
there on the field to check for this rubber band, so it had better be right!
(VBG)
Duct tape should work alright. I have used black electrical tape wrapped
around the spoke ends a few times and have never had a problem.
Rich Chrysler
Scott wrote:
> I know there is a "rubber" that goes around the outside of a wire wheel, I
> presume to keep the inner tube from rubbing on the inner spoke nipples, I
see
> that they are available at 20 bucks per, can I just put a wrap of duct
tape
> around the wheel? Will I lose concours points? Just trying to save a buck
or
> two.
Thanks, Scott.
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 19:14:28 -0500
Subject: Re: wire wheel condom
Hi, Scott -
Allen Hendrix at Hendrix Wire Wheel wrapped my wheels with a wide plastic
tape, like electrical tape, but only because I asked him to. I had sealed
the spoke heads with silicone sealant (to keep water out of the inside of
the wheel), Allen said they usually don't even wrap a wheel that is sealed.
The only purpose of the tape or rubber band is to keep the tube from chafing
on the spoke heads, and I just wanted the extra protection.
If the paper stickers that are sometimes left inside new tires can chafe
holes in inner tubes, that tells you they are pretty sensitive to rough
surfaces. I think it would be difficult to tape it with duct tape without
having some wrinkles to chafe the tube. The plastic tape is thinner.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: RAWDAWGS@aol.com <RAWDAWGS@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, January 11, 2001 6:50 PM
Subject: wire wheel condom
>
>I know there is a "rubber" that goes around the outside of a wire wheel, I
>presume to keep the inner tube from rubbing on the inner spoke nipples, I
see
>that they are available at 20 bucks per, can I just put a wrap of duct tape
>around the wheel? Will I lose concours points? Just trying to save a buck
or
>two. Thanks, Scott.
>
>
>BN4
>280ZX
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 18:23:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Wheels
hi john-
don't worry about misspelling heely, you also misspelled borrani !!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel@imotors.com>
Subject: Wheels
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 09:30:29 -0800
Yes I misspelled Healey, sorry, I was typing fast. Before the
flames start... Does this make me a Pilliock?
John Pagel
Data Manager
Tel: (916) 265-4230
john.pagel@iMotors.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Pagel, John
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 9:04 AM
Cc: Healey List
Subject: RE: Re: Wheels
I once saw a Healy with 16" Borrannis on it, Wow, the rims were
polished and the deep dish look really made the car look exotic
That vision is what prompted me to get the 70 spoke, well-laced,
Cobra-style, Daytons from Bruce at British Wire Wheel.....
John Pagel
Data Manager
Tel: (916) 265-4230
john.pagel@iMotors.com
-----Original Message-----
From: busyrider@springmail.com [mailto:busyrider@springmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 7:09 PM
To: Mike Blair
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: Re: Wheels
Yes,
Borranni
Crazy Fred Criswell
On Wed, 10 Jan 2001 19:00:01 -0700 Mike Blair <blimpie@digisys.net> wrote:
Dayton or Dunlop wheels? Anybody have a preference?
TIA
Mike
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 11:12:49 +1000
Subject: Re: wire wheel condom
I would not advise it as if the tube should stick to the duct tape it will
tear, also unless the tape is completely flat it may wear the tube. If you
were to try it I would suggest a liberal dusting with talc to try and avoid
sticky edges on the tape.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
----- Original Message -----
From: <RAWDAWGS@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, 12 January 2001 9:15
Subject: wire wheel condom
>
> I know there is a "rubber" that goes around the outside of a wire wheel, I
> presume to keep the inner tube from rubbing on the inner spoke nipples, I
see
> that they are available at 20 bucks per, can I just put a wrap of duct
tape
> around the wheel? Will I lose concours points? Just trying to save a buck
or
> two. Thanks, Scott.
>
>
> BN4
> 280ZX
From Alex Hope <ahope at jaques.com.au>
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 12:24:17 +1100
Subject: 100 Six workshop manual
Listers,
>From what I can determine, the factory workshop manual that covers both
100 Six and 3000 models is part number AKD1179. As new models were
released revisions were made, eventually up to Revision H.
Is there a factory workshop manual that covers the 100 Six model only ?
If yes, what is the document/part number and/or revision numbers ? Also,
is it hard bound like the 100 manual (Part No. 997) or 4 ring binder
like the 100 Six and 3000 manual (AKD1179) ?
Literature collectors may be able to answer.
Alex Hope
Australia
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 19:19:32 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ8 Miss
<<One of the
outstanding points of a Big Healey is the overdrive on 3rd & 4th - there is
nothing to touch it, especially with correctly adjusted kickdown>>
DITTO, Peter !! Selecting 4th OD/out and passing a "Porch" and/or 'Vette is
more fun than a guy ought to be allowed<G><G>!!! Especially since there is
vary LARGE "age" difference!!<G>
Cheers..............
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 19:24:09 -0600
Subject: Re: wire wheel condom
<<can I just put a wrap of duct tape
around the wheel?>>
Sure. But be VERY sure your AAA (or whom ever, is PAID).
And I will be more than happy to sell you replacement wheels<G>(with a
discount).
Cheers..............
Ed
PS: Duct tape EATS tubes - talc or no talc.
From Frank A Filangeri <ffilangeri at juno.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 20:43:11 -0500
Subject: Re: wire wheel condom
Do yourself a favor and DO NOT use duct tape. I had a shop use it on my
brand new Dayton stainless steel wheels and within a year the adhesive
had softened to the point where it worked its way out the spaces between
the rim and spoke nipples, running down the spokes, and made a real mess
out of the wheels. I finally had to dismount the tires, remove the duct
tape and all traces of adhesive (lacquer thinner) and retape the nipples
using the extra wide, extra heavy "electrical" tape available from
British Wire Wheel. One roll does a set of wheels for about $6. No more
goo since.
See http://www.classicjaguar.com/frankf.html for a description of my
Healey for sale.
Frank Filangeri...................."Don't always follow the crowd.
1962 E OTS Flat Floor.............Nobody goes there anymore.
1966 AH 3000 (For Sale).............................It's too crowded."
Yogi Berra
On Thu, 11 Jan 2001 18:15:40 EST RAWDAWGS@aol.com writes:
>
> I know there is a "rubber" that goes around the outside of a wire
> wheel, I
> presume to keep the inner tube from rubbing on the inner spoke
> nipples, I see
> that they are available at 20 bucks per, can I just put a wrap of
> duct tape
> around the wheel? Will I lose concours points? Just trying to save a
> buck or
> two. Thanks, Scott.
>
>
> BN4
> 280ZX
________________________________________________________________
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 21:02:32 EST
Subject: Re: 100 Six workshop manual
Hi Alex,
The only ones I have are the 100 Six Service Manual printed May 1957 #
97H.1489 and the Service Parts List # AKD 855 dated August 1959. Both are 4
ring binders. Is this of any help to you?
Rudy Streng
100 Six Registry
Lenoir, North Carolina
From "Rick Lees" <rlees at rideshare.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 21:28:10 -0500
Subject: RE: 100 Six workshop manual
Hi Alex,
I have a 100 Six Service Manual that is a 4 ring binder with a blue cover.
It is titled 'Austin Healey '100' SIX series BN4 Service Manual'. It is
publication # 97H/1489 and is dated May 1957.
Hope this helps.
Rick Lees
58 BN4
Connecticut
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Alex Hope
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 8:24 PM
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: 100 Six workshop manual
Listers,
>From what I can determine, the factory workshop manual that covers both
100 Six and 3000 models is part number AKD1179. As new models were
released revisions were made, eventually up to Revision H.
Is there a factory workshop manual that covers the 100 Six model only ?
If yes, what is the document/part number and/or revision numbers ? Also,
is it hard bound like the 100 manual (Part No. 997) or 4 ring binder
like the 100 Six and 3000 manual (AKD1179) ?
Literature collectors may be able to answer.
Alex Hope
Australia
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 23:10:10 -0500
Subject: Re: wire wheel condom
Scott,
My favorite trick for this is to get a dead inner tube from a garden tractor
service shop, cut away the top and sides, and slip what's left
over the spoke ends. Makes for a seamless and wrinkle-free surface,
and they generally don't charge you for the dead inner tube.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: <RAWDAWGS@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 6:15 PM
Subject: wire wheel condom
>
> I know there is a "rubber" that goes around the outside of a wire wheel, I
> presume to keep the inner tube from rubbing on the inner spoke nipples, I
see
> that they are available at 20 bucks per, can I just put a wrap of duct
tape
> around the wheel? Will I lose concours points? Just trying to save a buck
or
> two. Thanks, Scott.
>
>
> BN4
> 280ZX
From njones at amadeus.net
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 09:44:19 +0100
Subject: Unleaded fuels and there effect on original steel fuel tanks
Here is my experience on the above.
I have a low mileage BN7 MK11 one of the 355 made...46500 miles and I am the
fourth owner.
My original tank was stripped and repainted back in 1983 and is in remarkable
shape..the inside shines as if new.
After driving the car in Germany since the summer of 99 ..I developed a leak on
the right bottom rear seem..near the the boot opening.
On removal and close inspection I found a pin like hole that had developed.
I decided to replace with an aluminium(aluminum) tank .
All ok in the end..all new copper fuel lines and electronic SU fuel pump.
A friend of mine produced an article which slatted the new modern
fuels(unleaded) and there effect on older
steel tanks that many of our LBCs are fitted with.
The article(in German) mentioned the new agressive additives that are found in
European fuels that were not present before in
older four star premium grade leaded fuels.
The article also recommended the use of Aluminum and Copper as very resistant
metals for use in fuel systems.
I'm not sure in the end whether it was just age or these new fuels we are now
forced to use.
Nick Jones,near Munich,Germany
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 04:59:24 EST
Subject: Fwd: A letter sent to me in the mail....
Hi all,
This was sent to me by Randolph Williams (Morris Minor1000@aol.com).
Read on.....
Return-path: <MorrisMinor1000@aol.com>
From: MorrisMinor1000@aol.com
Full-name: Morris Minor1000
Message-ID: <74.6c401b5.278f529c@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 13:17:00 EST
Subject: A letter sent to me in the mail...
To: CFIMAIN1@aol.com, Trmgafun@aol.com, jeff@brit-auto.com,
mikebrinker@hotmail.com, BritCarMag@aol.com, BritCarSvc@aol.com,
ana@petrova.com (Ana Petrova), rfeibusch@loop.com
CC: wcelliot@concentric.net, delicate@rev.net, rthall@pop.halcyon.com
(Richard Hall)
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Disposition: Inline
X-Mailer: 6.0 sub 149
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 0.97c
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain
26 December 2000
Dear Fellow Austin:
We are writing because we need your help for a long time pillar of the Austin
community.
Rob Stuart of Manhattan Beach, CA has been b The AustinWorksb for about 30
years.B He hastraveled extensively in Australia, North America, Europe and
The United Kingdommeeting and helping Austin owners with information and
parts sources.B He personally owns about 35 Austins he hassaved from the
crushers and modifiers including a rare A40 Ice Cream Van and anA40 Fire
Truck.
Those of you who have had the opportunity to meet Rob, knowthat his
personality and enthusiasm for Austin collecting and restoring areinfectious
and a great asset to our hobby.
In September of 2000 Rob was the victim of a serious carcrash.B By some
miracle he survived butwas left paralyzed in his lower body and permanently
blind.B The hospital staff was just amazed that allthrough his painful
operations and now his beginning rehabilitation, Rob hasnever lost his
positive outlook on life.B He is the one cheering up his friends who feel
powerless to help.
Rob returned from the hospital in early December and nowalong with a full
rehab schedule, requires 24-hour care.B This treatment and care is not cheap
andinsurance is only covering a fraction of the costs.B Austin hobbyists
around the globe who have met and been helped byRob have donated what they
could to his rehab fund.
At Austin Works East we will be selling off our entire20+year collection of
Austin literature and manuals dating from 1906 to 1954with the proceeds going
to the fund.
You can help by letting friends know to contact us if theyare interested.B We
are compiling listsin stages with the manuals and handbooks first followed by
the sales and otherliterature.B Because time is importantwe will begin our
selling efforts on Ebay, the Internet auction site, startingwith the 1954 era
parts and service manuals and working backward.B Then we will start over
again with thesales, etc literature.B We will be happyto sell any individual
pieces or lots of any size to interested buyers.B We can supply lists as they
become availableand email pictures.B For those notinterested in publications:
Donations can be sent to Rob Stuart, 229 Third St.,Manhattan Beach, CA 90266.
Thank you for your help and have a happy, safe andprosperous New Year.
Doug S. Dexter
Austin Works East
PO Box 1997, Sandwich, MA 02563
Office: 508 833-6503, Home: 508-833-3109
Email:B austnworks@aol.com
Your Austin Friend
Randolph
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/MorrisMinor1000";>Click Here To See My
Website</A>
Randolph Williams
PO Box 9280, Marina del rey, California, 90295 USA
310 827-2727 fax 310 306-2626
email: Morris Minor1000@aol.com
website: http://members.AOL.com/MorrisMinor1000
From LBCarNut <LBCarNut at carolina.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 05:57:33 -0500
Subject: Re: How to keep the tyres black
I use Meguiar's Tire Gel, It keeps the tires black but not shiny, does
not spray off all over the car, and will last thru a couple
washings/drives in the rain. If you like the shiny look they make it in
a Hi-Gloss formula as well.
Peter Samaroo
Charlotte NC
59 AN5
59 BN4
TC wrote:
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> I ran over a nail recently, punctured a tyre and thus put on the spare
> wheel.
> The spare tyre was original black and nicely shining while the remaining
> three
> looked as though they just finished in 80 days around the world.
> (And I do clean then form time to time)
>
> Now what is the best way to bring the original colour back and keep them
> that way?
>
> Thomas Cremer
> 467 BJ8
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 09:50:07 -0500
Subject: Fwd: Re: Healey Parts
Any way to tell the model for these transmissions?
2 side shifts tag# s
2957, & B5700
Thanks, Joe
>From: Tomsimkins@aol.com
>Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 08:01:38 EST
>Subject: Re: Healey Parts
>To: healey27@mindspring.com
>X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 120
>
>In a message dated 1/8/2001 9:55:47 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>healey27@mindspring.com writes:
>
><< Date: 1/8/2001 9:55:47 PM Eastern Standard Time
> From: healey27@mindspring.com (Joseph Smathers)
> To: Tomsimkins@aol.com
>
> Tom,
>
> Looking for an overdrive for a 60 3000 or a transmission with an
> overdrive. Will be happy to rebuild.
>
> Best Regards, Joe
> >>
>
>Hello Joe,
>
>I'm not sure what the trannys I have are out of. I have 2 sideshifts tag#s
>2957, & B5700 if that helps. And 1 centershift tag# 22B1 SC6866. All of them
>have the overdrives. They're complete, but I would think that they probably
>do need rebuilt.
>
>Is there a way to tell what these are for.
>
>Tom
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 09:06:47 -0800
Subject: Re: How to keep the tyres black
Here, here, it's great stuff. Best I've seen so far...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "LBCarNut" <LBCarNut@carolina.rr.com>
To: "TC" <tm-c@gmx.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 2:57 AM
Subject: Re: How to keep the tyres black
>
> I use Meguiar's Tire Gel, It keeps the tires black but not shiny, does
> not spray off all over the car, and will last thru a couple
> washings/drives in the rain. If you like the shiny look they make it in
> a Hi-Gloss formula as well.
> Peter Samaroo
> Charlotte NC
> 59 AN5
> 59 BN4
>
> TC wrote:
> >
> > Hi Listers,
> >
> > I ran over a nail recently, punctured a tyre and thus put on the spare
> > wheel.
> > The spare tyre was original black and nicely shining while the remaining
> > three
> > looked as though they just finished in 80 days around the world.
> > (And I do clean then form time to time)
> >
> > Now what is the best way to bring the original colour back and keep them
> > that way?
> >
> > Thomas Cremer
> > 467 BJ8
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 12:48:30 EST
Subject: Re: Wheels
In a message dated 1/11/01 3:19:54 PM, Jwhlyadv@aol.com writes:
<<
For a driver I would recommend the seventy-two spoke wheels from Dayton for
the toughest wheel. If originality is very important stick with Dunlop
because you can tell a difference in appearance >>
Now there's an oxymoron in the making, since no production Healey was every
equipped from the factory with chrome wheels or with 72 spoke wheels. So,
for you guys who have decided to go with chrome 72s (many of my friends
are...er, have these wheels) I wouldn't worry a lot about originality.
Originality is when you put 48 spoke painted Dunlops with Dunlop $RS5 tires
on your Healey (or sixty spoke on the very last BJ8s).
Cheers
Gary
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 11:55:58 -0600
Subject: RE: How to keep the tyres black
Ahhhh, I remember the old days in the souped up Fury.. used Black tire
paint.. and a red-line crayon..;-)
Steve
61BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: Neil Trelenberg [mailto:neilberg@telus.net]
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 12:07 PM
To: LBCarNut; TC
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: How to keep the tyres black
Here, here, it's great stuff. Best I've seen so far...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "LBCarNut" <LBCarNut@carolina.rr.com>
To: "TC" <tm-c@gmx.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 2:57 AM
Subject: Re: How to keep the tyres black
>
> I use Meguiar's Tire Gel, It keeps the tires black but not shiny, does
> not spray off all over the car, and will last thru a couple
> washings/drives in the rain. If you like the shiny look they make it in
> a Hi-Gloss formula as well.
> Peter Samaroo
> Charlotte NC
> 59 AN5
> 59 BN4
>
> TC wrote:
> >
> > Hi Listers,
> >
> > I ran over a nail recently, punctured a tyre and thus put on the spare
> > wheel.
> > The spare tyre was original black and nicely shining while the remaining
> > three
> > looked as though they just finished in 80 days around the world.
> > (And I do clean then form time to time)
> >
> > Now what is the best way to bring the original colour back and keep them
> > that way?
> >
> > Thomas Cremer
> > 467 BJ8
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 10:43:49 -0800
Subject: Tire Talc
Listers
Bycle riders have used Talc inside the the rims for years. It makes the tires
easier to install and allows them some movement during installation.
I think the best bet is as Steve said, first seal the spokes so that water doses
not leak into the wheel, then install the rubber band, the dump some talc in
before installing the tube (which is also lightly dusted in talc).
Ron Rader
Greg Bankin wrote:
> I would not advise it as if the tube should stick to the duct tape it will
> tear, also unless the tape is completely flat it may wear the tube. If you
> were to try it I would suggest a liberal dusting with talc to try and avoid
> sticky edges on the tape.
>
> Greg Bankin
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
> Sunshine Coast
> Queensland
> Australia
>
> '58 BN4
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <RAWDAWGS@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, 12 January 2001 9:15
> Subject: wire wheel condom
>
> >
> > I know there is a "rubber" that goes around the outside of a wire wheel, I
> > presume to keep the inner tube from rubbing on the inner spoke nipples, I
> see
> > that they are available at 20 bucks per, can I just put a wrap of duct
> tape
> > around the wheel? Will I lose concours points? Just trying to save a buck
> or
> > two. Thanks, Scott.
> >
> >
> > BN4
> > 280ZX
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
rader.vcf]
From "R. Markl/B. Council" <rmarkl at bellsouth.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 13:05:01 -0600
Subject: wheels
And if you use tubes, make sure you use the correct size (to avoid
premature failure). For 165 X 15 that is FR.
Rudi Markl
100M
From "AH102 at home.com" <ah102@home.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 14:49:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Wheels
Just a little trivia for the record: The BJ7 I bought new in '63 came with
60 Spoke wheels. So I believe some BJ7's and all BJ8's came with the sixty
spoke wheels.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 12:48 PM
Subject: Re: Wheels
> Originality is when you put 48 spoke painted Dunlops with Dunlop $RS5
tires
> on your Healey (or sixty spoke on the very last BJ8s).
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 13:06:55 -0800
Subject: Front Shroud
Hi all,
I'm investigating front shroud repairs as my BJ8 had been hit in the
left front some time ago with a resulting poor repair (mondo bondo) by a
DPO. Would anyone have a shroud with damage to the right side so I
could possibly make one good one from two??
Jerry Rude
Prather CA
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 16:34:36 -0500
Subject: Personal Day,NJ
Had to get a new Rx for eyeglasses this morning and the weather was
clear soooooooo I dusted off the Healey and hey I'm still smiling.
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 17:22:46 -0500
Subject: Re: wire wheel condom
Scott,
Before I went to duck tape I would look for old inner tube (small ones of
course) and try to cut the rings I needed. I would also think that the
surface and edges of the tape could be too abbrasive on your own inner tube,
particularly if the tape gets krinkled. OK Patrick, what's the derivation
of that word? :)
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: <RAWDAWGS@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 6:15 PM
Subject: wire wheel condom
>
> I know there is a "rubber" that goes around the outside of a wire wheel, I
> presume to keep the inner tube from rubbing on the inner spoke nipples, I
see
> that they are available at 20 bucks per, can I just put a wrap of duct
tape
> around the wheel? Will I lose concours points? Just trying to save a buck
or
> two. Thanks, Scott.
>
>
> BN4
> 280ZX
From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 16:35:07 -0800
Subject: luggage rack
I noticed that one of the major suppliers has the luggage rack on sale and
knowing how small the trunk is in the 4 seaters, does anyone have
reccomendations of the weight limit of the rack? Is it a worthwhile
addition, or would you rather pack very light?
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 19:40:26 EST
Subject: Re: luggage rack
Hi Jerry,
We went in my 4 seater 100/Six for over 2 weeks to upper Michigan for
Conclave and then the Post Conclave Tour into Canada. Packing light is an
understatement. Since I was traveling with 25 other Healeys, I did leave my
spare tire home. I took along a can of Fix-A-Flat, but never had any
trouble. We did ship home soiled clothes or clothes we wouldn't wear again.
Many of the hotels on the route had laundering facilities and we did use that
a few times. The main suggestion is to use soft luggage that can fit in
every nook and cranny.
Good Luck!
Rudy Streng in NC
From "Gary Bridi" <gbridi at mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 19:52:08 -0500
Subject: Re: How to keep the tyres black
Anyone know where Meguiar's Tire Gel can be purchased in the Philly area?
thanks Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Neil Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net>
To: LBCarNut <LBCarNut@carolina.rr.com>; TC <tm-c@gmx.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 12:06 PM
Subject: Re: How to keep the tyres black
>
> Here, here, it's great stuff. Best I've seen so far...Neil
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "LBCarNut" <LBCarNut@carolina.rr.com>
> To: "TC" <tm-c@gmx.net>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 2:57 AM
> Subject: Re: How to keep the tyres black
>
>
> >
> > I use Meguiar's Tire Gel, It keeps the tires black but not shiny, does
> > not spray off all over the car, and will last thru a couple
> > washings/drives in the rain. If you like the shiny look they make it in
> > a Hi-Gloss formula as well.
> > Peter Samaroo
> > Charlotte NC
> > 59 AN5
> > 59 BN4
> >
> > TC wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Listers,
> > >
> > > I ran over a nail recently, punctured a tyre and thus put on the spare
> > > wheel.
> > > The spare tyre was original black and nicely shining while the
remaining
> > > three
> > > looked as though they just finished in 80 days around the world.
> > > (And I do clean then form time to time)
> > >
> > > Now what is the best way to bring the original colour back and keep
them
> > > that way?
> > >
> > > Thomas Cremer
> > > 467 BJ8
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 19:55:48 -0600
Subject: Re: luggage rack
hi jerry-
i used to have one a few years back on a bt7 and carried 3 mounted wire wheels
on it. they also make a nifty rear badge bar.
happy healeying,
jerry wall
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0@attglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: luggage rack
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 16:35:07 -0800
I noticed that one of the major suppliers has the luggage rack on sale and
knowing how small the trunk is in the 4 seaters, does anyone have
reccomendations of the weight limit of the rack? Is it a worthwhile
addition, or would you rather pack very light?
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 19:49:52 -0600
Subject: Re: Wheels
Gary, I'll save you the effort.
Jim, Big Tim Odds are Dealer Installed. Matter-of-fact, might be willing to
enter into a major wager<G>!!
Cheers..............
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey) (whose BMIHT Cert. says 48s)
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 21:56:11 -0500
Subject: RE: BJ8 Miss
I had a similar experience about two years ago. Fortunately, I was
close enough to home that AAA picked up the towing charges.
I posted a note about it to this list and got an email from
the sales manager at Moss Motors. After a bit of a conversation
with him he sent me a replacement rotor and invited me to call him
personally any time I had any problems with parts from Moss.
Needless to say, I now carry a spare cap and rotor in my boot.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of David Masucci
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 5:55 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BJ8 Miss
As a point of reference on cheap rotors, my BRAND NEW MOSS rotor cost me
$185 ramp truck charge!!
After I rebuilt my BJ8 engine, like any good car guy I installed new
ignition components. On it's maiden voyage to work and then home again, it
died! At the time I foolishly had not replaced my spares toolbox in the
trunk. Well the new rotor shorted. Right to the shaft...shorting out the
ignition. Before I had time to troubleshoot the problem and figure out a way
to limp home, the state trooper had called the truck. ONE HUNDRED EIGHTY
FIVE BIG ONES!!!
So never forget your spare rotor...and don't buy cheap ones!!!
Dave
64 BJ8
66 TR4A
72 Harley 125 Rapido (don't laugh!)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Brauen" <pbrauen@telepak.net>
To: "Mike Goode" <mgoode@netjets.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 5:08 PM
Subject: Re: BJ8 Miss
>
> Hi Mike,
> Try changing the distributor rotor. Some of the ones with a brass
rivet
> holding down the plate develop an internal crack that can short to the
shaft
> intermittently. If you have an old one with no rivet, try that. Hope this
> helps.
> Peter (BMC Restorations)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Goode" <mgoode@netjets.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 10:44 AM
> Subject: BJ8 Miss
>
>
> >
> > Listers:
> >
> > I have a BJ8/40462 that I purchased last May. It is in super shape
> > with a total engine rebuild done 10 years ago and 10,000 miles since
> > then. PO said he had the carbs rebuilt with the engine.
> >
> > My problem is that I have a slight miss at 2500-3000 rpm both constant
> > throttle and accelerating....Just enough to be bothersome. It then
> > smoothes out above 3000. I have checked the vacuum advance with a
> > strobe and it looks good, adjusted the mixture on the carbs numerous
> > times, added dashpot oil, checked the plugs for burn and regapped them
> > to .035...what else am I missing? He put on a sport coil and installed
> > breakerless ignition.
> >
> > PO thinks the carbs need rebuilding. He thinks there is some air
> > getting by the bushings on the spindle. Think this might be the
> > problem? I bought the Master rebuild kit from Moss and it looks like
> > it is not too difficult. Any tricks or "gotchas" I need to know if I
> > go that way?
> >
> > Wow do I love driving this car! AZ is great a great place for a
> > Healey.
> >
> > Any ideas would be appreciated.
> >
> > Best Wishes,
> >
> > Mike Goode
> > BJ8/40462
From LBCarNut <LBCarNut at carolina.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 22:14:32 -0500
Subject: Re: How to keep the tyres black
Gary,
Try K-Mart, Target, Pep-Boys or AutoZone.
Alternatively go to www.meguiars.com and look under their dealer
locator. I think I bought mine at Pep-Boys but am not sure if they have
stores in your area.
Peter Samaroo.
Charlotte NC
Gary Bridi wrote:
>
> Anyone know where Meguiar's Tire Gel can be purchased in the Philly area?
> thanks Gary
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Neil Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net>
> To: LBCarNut <LBCarNut@carolina.rr.com>; TC <tm-c@gmx.net>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 12:06 PM
> Subject: Re: How to keep the tyres black
>
> >
> > Here, here, it's great stuff. Best I've seen so far...Neil
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "LBCarNut" <LBCarNut@carolina.rr.com>
> > To: "TC" <tm-c@gmx.net>
> > Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 2:57 AM
> > Subject: Re: How to keep the tyres black
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I use Meguiar's Tire Gel, It keeps the tires black but not shiny, does
> > > not spray off all over the car, and will last thru a couple
> > > washings/drives in the rain. If you like the shiny look they make it in
> > > a Hi-Gloss formula as well.
> > > Peter Samaroo
> > > Charlotte NC
> > > 59 AN5
> > > 59 BN4
> > >
> > > TC wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi Listers,
> > > >
> > > > I ran over a nail recently, punctured a tyre and thus put on the spare
> > > > wheel.
> > > > The spare tyre was original black and nicely shining while the
> remaining
> > > > three
> > > > looked as though they just finished in 80 days around the world.
> > > > (And I do clean then form time to time)
> > > >
> > > > Now what is the best way to bring the original colour back and keep
> them
> > > > that way?
> > > >
> > > > Thomas Cremer
> > > > 467 BJ8
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 23:00:24 -0500
Subject: RE: acronyms
Reminds me of an incident when I was in the Navy serving on a
destroyer tender.
The admiral was inspecting the torpedo shop and came across a box
of parts labeled "NFG". He asked the chief what it stood for.
With a straight face and no hesitation the chief replied, "Non functional
gear."
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-owner@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-owner@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Gerald J. Brazil
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 9:58 AM
To: JNiolon@uss.com; shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: acronyms
Back in a former life when I negotiated labor contracts (on the management
side) the most commonly used acronym was NFW !!!
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 20:09:28 -0800
Subject: Sensible Spares to carry at all times?
Hi Guys,
I am interested with all the threads of what various people carry
with them and what has saved people and also been the downfall of NOT
having what you need at the right time.
I am interested in producing a 'list' of reasonable items to place in
my boot as a result of what is hopefully a fruitful discussion.
Remembering how tiny these boots are ... especially with my spare
wheel in it which I consider an 'essential spare' the 100-SIX (BN4)
is then already running out of room.
Currently I have in my boot:
Big battery - Unavoidable
Basic toolkit
Spare wheel with tyre mounted etc
Knockoff Hammer
Scissors Jack
Side Curtains (when the rain looks likely)
1 bottle Engine Oil
1 bottle Gear Oil
1 WD40
Perhaps we could organize this into 2 lists essential and optional
due to weather or long trip etc.
This will be educational for me since already i am now thinking of an
extra fuel pump, rotor, distributor cap etc ..
Even with the little I have in there I have to think twice about what
I can carry.
I look forward to the responses
Thanks
Rohan.
(BN4)
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 22:03:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Sensible Spares to carry at all times?
Rohan: This is a very subjective matter. Everyone will have his own ideas.
My recommendations, as a start, would be to add to your list as follows:
Ignition components. Distributor cap and rotor. If you are running a
breakerless ignition system, a set of points and condenser.
In addition to the oils, you might want to include some brake fluid.
Rubber goods. Fan belt, upper and lower radiator hoses.
A small spool of safety wire. This can be used for tying your exhaust
system back together.
Many people carry a spare fuel pump.
There are several small miscellaneous items: Nuts/bolts/washers, electrical
connectors/wire, fuses, etc.
Things I have seen replaced by myself or others: Front wheel bearing,
generator, coil, belts, hoses, and, believe it or not, a radiator. What was
amazing was that someone had a spare available.
I look at the list as an insurance policy. Any item you carry will
hopefully never be needed.
Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rohan Marr" <rohan@marketocracy.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 8:09 PM
Subject: Sensible Spares to carry at all times?
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> I am interested with all the threads of what various people carry
> with them and what has saved people and also been the downfall of NOT
> having what you need at the right time.
>
> I am interested in producing a 'list' of reasonable items to place in
> my boot as a result of what is hopefully a fruitful discussion.
>
> Remembering how tiny these boots are ... especially with my spare
> wheel in it which I consider an 'essential spare' the 100-SIX (BN4)
> is then already running out of room.
>
> Currently I have in my boot:
> Big battery - Unavoidable
> Basic toolkit
> Spare wheel with tyre mounted etc
> Knockoff Hammer
> Scissors Jack
> Side Curtains (when the rain looks likely)
> 1 bottle Engine Oil
> 1 bottle Gear Oil
> 1 WD40
>
>
> Perhaps we could organize this into 2 lists essential and optional
> due to weather or long trip etc.
>
> This will be educational for me since already i am now thinking of an
> extra fuel pump, rotor, distributor cap etc ..
>
> Even with the little I have in there I have to think twice about what
> I can carry.
>
> I look forward to the responses
> Thanks
> Rohan.
> (BN4)
From Fred Hunter <fhunter at kcnet.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 00:15:23 -0600
Subject: Re: Sensible Spares to carry at all times?
> I am interested in producing a 'list' of reasonable items to place in
> my boot as a result of what is hopefully a fruitful discussion.
>
Rohan:
Rather than re-inventing the wheel...why don't you just check out Jim
Werners wonderful site (be careful: you can spend hours there!). Right
on the intro page click on the link entitled: Healey Ultimate Road
Spares List
http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/jimwerner.html
Best regards,
Fred
Violets are blue
Roses are pink
On graves
Of those
Who drive and drink
--Burma-Shave--
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 22:51:17 -0800
Subject: Re: Sensible Spares to carry at all times?
Phew! I just took a look at Werner's list. Although it looks intimidating,
after reviewing the 76 or so items listed, I realized that I already carry
about 51 of them myself. One other note: as mentioned by Rudy Streng
responding to "luggage rack", use soft bags/containers if you need a
bag/container at all. They are better for stuffing things in small places
Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Hunter" <fhunter@kcnet.com>
To: "Rohan Marr" <rohan@marketocracy.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 10:15 PM
Subject: Re: Sensible Spares to carry at all times?
>
> > I am interested in producing a 'list' of reasonable items to place in
> > my boot as a result of what is hopefully a fruitful discussion.
> >
>
> Rohan:
>
> Rather than re-inventing the wheel...why don't you just check out Jim
> Werners wonderful site (be careful: you can spend hours there!). Right
> on the intro page click on the link entitled: Healey Ultimate Road
> Spares List
>
> http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/jimwerner.html
>
> Best regards,
>
> Fred
>
> Violets are blue
> Roses are pink
> On graves
> Of those
> Who drive and drink
> --Burma-Shave--
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 07:56:53 EST
Subject: Re: Wheels
Ed,
If you're giving odds on this, I want part of the action. Clausager's
Original Austin- Healey shows the change point from 48 spokes to 60 spokes at
BJ7/24367 in June '63, so Jim's car could have come that way from the
factory.
Happy Healeying,
Rick
(My BJ7's a '62 and the BMHT cert. just says "wire wheels")
In a message dated 1/12/01 8:59:27 PM, justbrits@mediaone.net writes:
<<Gary, I'll save you the effort.
Jim, Big Tim Odds are Dealer Installed. Matter-of-fact, might be willing to
enter into a major wager<G>!!
Cheers..............
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey) (whose BMIHT Cert. says 48s)
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 08:13:12 EST
Subject: Sensible Spares
Just a couple of more thoughts on traveling. With my BN4, the back seat area
is tough to pack. I flip the seat back down to a horizontal position and it
creates a flat area and the top of the seatback makes a kinda lip to keep
stuff from falling forward. I have found that is the best place to carry my
sidecurtains.
I measured the distance from the spare tire (when I carry it) to the battery
tray and went to Sears and bought a plastic toolbox that fits perfectly in
between them. It makes it a lot easier to pack with that in there. And
lastly, use the area under the spare tire for parts that you don't need to
get to unless necessary.
Just another . 02
Rudy Streng
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 08:54:45 -0500
Subject: New Engine-Oil Question
I know the subject of synthetic oil has been discussed a lot recently, but
have a question anyway. My engine rebuilder felt that with a new rebuild it
would be good to use synthetic oil but only after a 500 mile run in with
regular oil. How do you guy feel about that?
He asked which brand I wanted to use and the only one I could think of was
Mobil 1. I seem to recall someone saying something about that not being the
"best" for Healeys. Appreciate your thoughts.
Tom
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 09:02:03 EST
Subject: Test...please delete
TEST. Test. test.
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 08:39:36 -0600
Subject: Re: New Engine-Oil Question
Tom:
Many engine rebuilders adhere to the philosophy that synthetic oil is too
slippery to first break in an engine. I do not agree and have found that
synthetics will break in an engine although it takes 10% to 15% longer than
natural oil.
If you want to follow your engine builder's procedure, I recommend Castroil
for break in. I use Schaeffer's Supreme 7000 Racing Oil. It is a very
very good synthetic oil with a Molybdenum Trialkyldithiocarbamate additive.
http://www.schaefferoil.com
Best regards,
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 10:25:08 EST
Subject: Piston tolerances
List, what is the tolerance you can go to before having to buy oversized
pistons for the BJ8 engine.
Additionally, what is the grearest ammount of wear you can accept on the
bores before machining is required?
I've got it all apart now, and was going to start meaduring the thing. :o)
Thanks,
Tim
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 10:47:01 -0800
Subject: Re: How to keep the tyres black
I use brake fluid, rub it on and wipe it off. If it gets on paint it will
damage the paint. It works very well though to keep tire black.
John
'62 BT7 MK II
At 07:37 PM 1/11/01 +0100, TC wrote:
>Hi Listers,
>
>I ran over a nail recently, punctured a tyre and thus put on the spare
>wheel.
>The spare tyre was original black and nicely shining while the remaining
>three
>looked as though they just finished in 80 days around the world.
>(And I do clean then form time to time)
>
>Now what is the best way to bring the original colour back and keep them
>that way?
>
>Thomas Cremer
>467 BJ8
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 10:42:32 -0800
Subject: Re: Sensible Spares to carry at all times?
At 12:15 AM -0600 1/13/01, Fred Hunter wrote:
> > I am interested in producing a 'list' of reasonable items to place in
>> my boot as a result of what is hopefully a fruitful discussion.
>>
>
>Rohan:
>
>Rather than re-inventing the wheel...why don't you just check out Jim
>Werners wonderful site (be careful: you can spend hours there!). Right
>on the intro page click on the link entitled: Healey Ultimate Road
>Spares List
>
> http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/jimwerner.html
>
Thanks for the tip ... know I want to know how on earth and how many
Healey's he used to fit all this stuff?!!
Thanks again
Rohan.
PS: I am still interested in others opinions on this .. that list
seems awefully excessive.
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 12:24:03 -0800
Subject: Re: New Engine-Oil Question
Go with your rebuilder. The concensus seems to be that synthetic oil is so
good it won't allow the rings to seat properly. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: tom felts <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2001 5:54 AM
Subject: New Engine-Oil Question
>
> I know the subject of synthetic oil has been discussed a lot recently, but
> have a question anyway. My engine rebuilder felt that with a new rebuild
it
> would be good to use synthetic oil but only after a 500 mile run in with
> regular oil. How do you guy feel about that?
>
> He asked which brand I wanted to use and the only one I could think of was
> Mobil 1. I seem to recall someone saying something about that not being
the
> "best" for Healeys. Appreciate your thoughts.
>
> Tom
From "Russ & Natalie Bamsey" <ia549 at worldchat.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 14:49:07 -0500
Subject: Re: New Engine-Oil Question
Hello Tom and Listers;
I use Castrol Syntec in all my modern vehicles so a couple of years
ago I decided to try it in my 73 MGB. This car had around ten thousand
miles on a fully rebuilt engine and to make a long story short it didn`t
like the thin flowing synthetic oil. The engine was noticeably noisier with
the 5w-50 synthetic both cold or hot so I returned to good old 20-50 Castrol
and it quieted down and was happy again.
Interesting things I found with the synthetic oil were that after a
couple hundred miles I had to adjust the idle speed as it had increased
150rpm, and oil leakage from various seals was dramatically reduced and
still is two years later. My guess is that it softened the seals up enough
to get them working again as the car was driven very few miles per year
until I bought it.
If I were in your shoes I would break the engine in ( 1000 miles )
on conventional oil and then try a synthetic. Keep an eye on your oil
pressure gauge and listen to the engine and then decide for yourself if it
works for your car.
Good luck...Russ Bamsey
----- Original Message -----
From: tom felts <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2001 8:54 AM
Subject: New Engine-Oil Question
>
> I know the subject of synthetic oil has been discussed a lot recently, but
> have a question anyway. My engine rebuilder felt that with a new rebuild
it
> would be good to use synthetic oil but only after a 500 mile run in with
> regular oil. How do you guy feel about that?
>
> He asked which brand I wanted to use and the only one I could think of was
> Mobil 1. I seem to recall someone saying something about that not being
the
> "best" for Healeys. Appreciate your thoughts.
>
> Tom
From "Coop" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 11:35:07 -0800
Subject: Re: New Engine-Oil Question
>It is a very
> very good synthetic oil with a Molybdenum Trialkyldithiocarbamate
additive.
> Best regards,
> Jim Hockert
Easy for you to say....... :>) Coop ('66 BJ8)
From "Russ & Natalie Bamsey" <ia549 at worldchat.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 15:07:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Piston tolerances
Hello Tim and Listers;
I am just about to start a full rebuild on my cars engine and like
you asked the same questions of my engine rebuilder friend and person that I
bought my Healey from. His answer was that if the bore was worn more than
.005 or if it tapers more than .002-.003 then a rebore should be done. It
is entirely possible to go as high as .012 or more but expect blowby and
ring breakage as a result.
On a Healey with original type air filters you can expect to need a
rebore any time after the 50,00 mile mark if you want it to be done right.
B.T.W. I just bought new pistons ( with rings and pins installed )
for a BJ7 from UK Healey for L160.00, best price I could find.
Hope this helps answer your questions...Russ Bamsey
----- Original Message -----
From: <Healybj8@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2001 10:25 AM
Subject: Piston tolerances
>
> List, what is the tolerance you can go to before having to buy oversized
> pistons for the BJ8 engine.
>
> Additionally, what is the grearest ammount of wear you can accept on the
> bores before machining is required?
>
> I've got it all apart now, and was going to start meaduring the thing. :o)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 15:26:27 EST
Subject: Re: Sensible Spares to carry at all times?
In a message dated 1/13/01 1:52:22 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rohan@marketocracy.com writes:
Rohan writes <<> Thanks for the tip ... know I want to know how on earth and
> how many Healey's he used to fit all this stuff?!!>>
Soapbox mode On>>>
My standard answer is if you don't know how to pack this stuff don't bother
carrying it because you probably won't know how to fix the car either.
I use a small soft sided cooler that holds a six-pack and was a freebie from
Marlboro when I bought a carton. Hoses belts and fuel pump go behind the
panel that covers the fuel filler pipe. Some of it can go in a pie size
Tupperware container under the spare tire (Marion Brantly's suggestion).
I use the cooler because I have two Healeys and when I travel with a group in
my BN4 I carry the BJ8 stuff also. Keeps the group moving when the BJ8's
break down.
When I only had one car you could open the trunk and never see an item.
Plenty of space if you look for it. Just pack small and separate and be
creative.
Even if you don't know how to fix all these items you are much more likely to
find someone who can if you have the part.
And this is not expensive to assemble. Most of these parts are routine
maintenance items that should be replaced at scheduled intervals not because
of failure. Your old distributor cap is perfectly fine to keep in the trunk
kit to get you home someday.
Soapbox mode off<<<<
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
Visit my Bluegrass Austin Healey Club site at bluegrassclub.com
And visit my British Sports Car Club of KY site at britishsportscarclub.com.
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 14:35:29 -0600
Subject: the healey story by geoffrey healey
this is geoff healey's last book which is now out of print.
the austin healey club, usa has come into a limited number of this book which
are now available on a first come, first served basis. the normal retail is
$39.95, however, we are offering these for $32.50 each plus $5.00 shipping in
the domestic usa. total $37.50
checks payable to ahc,usa and sent to the attention of jerry wall pobox 45332
dallas,tx 75245. mastercard or visa is acceptable and can be emailed or sent
to the prior address.
if you havent yet ordered your copy of the bonneville salt flats video with the
ah assault on the class d records in the 50's -- we've still got a few left at
$19 postpaid. these are three castrol produced 16mm films converted into one
vhs tape approximately 1 hour long. it's hard to imagine any healey enthusiast
who would not want their own copy.
happy healeying !!!
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 15:39:30 -0500
Subject: run-in oil
Tom,
Geoffrey Healey once told me the oil he found best for running in a new
motor was good ol' regular 30W. My experiences with synthetic oils has been
much the same as Russ Bamsey's.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 12:54:01 -0800
Subject: Re: Sensible Spares to carry at all times?
At 3:26 PM -0500 1/13/01, Jwhlyadv@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 1/13/01 1:52:22 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>rohan@marketocracy.com writes:
>
>Rohan writes <<
>
>>Thanks for the tip ... know I want to know how on earth and
>>how many Healey's he used to fit all this stuff?!!>>
>>
>
>
>Soapbox mode On>>>
>
>My standard answer is if you don't know how to pack this stuff don't bother
>carrying it because you probably won't know how to fix the car either.
That was a huge leap in 'logic' ... and in my opinion an incorrect
one. I am trying to leverage the knowledge and experience of this
list (that is why it is here is it not?) rather than trial and error
a situation that has probably replayed itself through various other's
lifetimes.
Basically saving myself the pain of trial and error ... how this
correlates to my ability to repair the car you may have to explain
further.
>
>When I only had one car you could open the trunk and never see an item.
>Plenty of space if you look for it. Just pack small and separate and be
>creative.
This is a more constructive answer .. thanks
>Even if you don't know how to fix all these items you are much more likely to
>find someone who can if you have the part.
Also a goody .. I have had a lot of useful emails about what to use
and where to 'stash' it and I will give them a try.
>And this is not expensive to assemble. Most of these parts are routine
>maintenance items that should be replaced at scheduled intervals not because
>of failure. Your old distributor cap is perfectly fine to keep in the trunk
>kit to get you home someday.
>
>Soapbox mode off<<<<
>
>Thanks,
>
Thanks Jim .. it does help .. and I am new to owning Healeys, however
I am by no means new to mechanics and owning vehicles that need
regular and 'on the road' maintenance.
Thanks again to everyone .. this list is a great resource.
Rohan
(BN4)
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 15:42:14 -0800
Subject: Re: New Engine-Oil Question
You didn't specify as to where the noise was coming from. Perhaps a valve
adjustment would have fixed things. I believe all motors can benefit from
pure synthetic oils. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: Russ & Natalie Bamsey <ia549@worldchat.com>
To: tom felts <tfelts@prodigy.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2001 11:49 AM
Subject: Re: New Engine-Oil Question
>
> Hello Tom and Listers;
> I use Castrol Syntec in all my modern vehicles so a couple of
years
> ago I decided to try it in my 73 MGB. This car had around ten thousand
> miles on a fully rebuilt engine and to make a long story short it didn`t
> like the thin flowing synthetic oil. The engine was noticeably noisier
with
> the 5w-50 synthetic both cold or hot so I returned to good old 20-50
Castrol
> and it quieted down and was happy again.
> Interesting things I found with the synthetic oil were that after
a
> couple hundred miles I had to adjust the idle speed as it had increased
> 150rpm, and oil leakage from various seals was dramatically reduced and
> still is two years later. My guess is that it softened the seals up
enough
> to get them working again as the car was driven very few miles per year
> until I bought it.
> If I were in your shoes I would break the engine in ( 1000
miles )
> on conventional oil and then try a synthetic. Keep an eye on your oil
> pressure gauge and listen to the engine and then decide for yourself if it
> works for your car.
> Good luck...Russ Bamsey
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: tom felts <tfelts@prodigy.net>
> To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2001 8:54 AM
> Subject: New Engine-Oil Question
>
>
> >
> > I know the subject of synthetic oil has been discussed a lot recently,
but
> > have a question anyway. My engine rebuilder felt that with a new
rebuild
> it
> > would be good to use synthetic oil but only after a 500 mile run in with
> > regular oil. How do you guy feel about that?
> >
> > He asked which brand I wanted to use and the only one I could think of
was
> > Mobil 1. I seem to recall someone saying something about that not being
> the
> > "best" for Healeys. Appreciate your thoughts.
> >
> > Tom
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 18:15:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Sensible Spares
My buddy Mike has a novel approach to logistics. He figures that if has the
part on hand, the part in the Healey will never fail. So far it seems to
work. Think about it. Have you ever been able to do anything on a house,
boat or car without first going to Home Depot, West Marine etc?
---
Lee Mairs
'62 Mk II Tri-carb
---
It is the besetting vice of democracies to substitute public opinion for
law. This is
the usual form in which the masses of men exhibit their tyranny.
--James Fenimore Cooper
From "Greg Monfort" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 19:06:24 -0500
Subject: Re: run-in oil
Hear! Hear! And non-detergent to boot, if you can
still find it, as the additives hinders the
lubrication necessary for proper break-in.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Geoffrey Healey once told me the oil he found best
for running in a new
> motor was good ol' regular 30W. My experiences
with synthetic oils has been
> much the same as Russ Bamsey's.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 18:34:23 -0600
Subject: Re: Sensible Spares
<<the part in the Healey will never fail. >>
ABSOLUTLY, Lee. I have hauled a SU Fuel pump about 45K miles.
There is no award nor $$ for guessing what part has yet to fail<G><G><G>
Cheers...........
Ed
;63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
PS: Still, however, I am knocking on wood!!!
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 22:41:18 -0500
Subject: Hardtop Value
Gang: I've recently completed the sale of my BT7 - which also completed my
transition from DCO to DPO. However, I still have a hardtop to sell. Any
ideas as to what they are selling for these days ? It's complete and in
reasonably good shape. It'll need a paint job and new head liner.
Regards,
Mike L.
Bridgewater, NJ
'56 BN2
'59 BN7
'60 Bugeye
'67 Mustang 2+2
'70 E-Type
'79 Midget
From "Dennis O'Connor" <boyo at homeacres.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 21:26:48 -0800
Subject: Re: Luggage rack
When I was a wee lad, we actually went camping in a Austin-Healey 3000 Mk
III. Mom, Dad, two kids (3 and 5), and an english sheepdog! Dad got a big
matching trunk to put on the back, but the first time it was loaded onto the
car the rack collapsed before even leaving the driveway. :)
If the luggage racks are anything like the originals, you still have to be
careful how much weight you put on them. Use the trunk for heavy stuff -
and keep in mind that the trunk lid may give before the rack!
-Boyo
> Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 16:35:07 -0800
> From: "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0@attglobal.net>
> Subject: luggage rack
>
> I noticed that one of the major suppliers has the luggage rack on sale
and
> knowing how small the trunk is in the 4 seaters, does anyone have
> reccomendations of the weight limit of the rack? Is it a worthwhile
> addition, or would you rather pack very light?
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 22:02:58 -0800
Subject: Sensible Spares
Jim: The last word (from me) on spares.
Anyone carrying a jack, especially a scissors jack, should also be carrying
wheel chocks. I carry two folding metal chocks, each measuring 5 1/2" x 4 "
and folding to 1 " thick.
I believe that these should be added to your spares list under SAFETY
equipment.
Len.
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 08:34:39 -0500
Subject: Synthetic Oil
Thanks to everyone who responded--and there were lots--to the synthetic oil
question. I do appreciate the comments. I wll use it, but will use a break
in "real" oil for a short time first. The 35 year old engine required
cylinder honing to .020 - and, in 2 cylinders we had to sleeve and hone to
.020.
On interesting thing the rebuilder found was that the rings had not been
pre-measured to fit, and he had to take a file to each one and then measure
to insure the correct fit. Glad he didn't just stick them in as they came.
I'm very fortunate, I feel, with this person. He is so knowledgible and
thorough.
On another note, I had to have the radiator taken apart---there was a lot of
gunk in it. It has been cleaned, boiled out, repaired and repainted. Same
with the heater radiater.
Getting close---now, if the rest of this white stuff would go away!!
tom
From "Bob Yule" <autofarm at gate-way.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 08:59:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil
In my experience rings ALWAYS have to be sized, and most times need to be,
cheers........bob.
----- Original Message -----
From: tom felts <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2001 8:34 AM
Subject: Synthetic Oil
>
> Thanks to everyone who responded--and there were lots--to the synthetic
oil
> question. I do appreciate the comments. I wll use it, but will use a
break
> in "real" oil for a short time first. The 35 year old engine required
> cylinder honing to .020 - and, in 2 cylinders we had to sleeve and hone to
> .020.
>
> On interesting thing the rebuilder found was that the rings had not been
> pre-measured to fit, and he had to take a file to each one and then
measure
> to insure the correct fit. Glad he didn't just stick them in as they
came.
> I'm very fortunate, I feel, with this person. He is so knowledgible and
> thorough.
>
> On another note, I had to have the radiator taken apart---there was a lot
of
> gunk in it. It has been cleaned, boiled out, repaired and repainted.
Same
> with the heater radiater.
>
> Getting close---now, if the rest of this white stuff would go away!!
>
> tom
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 09:53:27 EST
Subject: Crane XR700 & Lucas Sports Coil
Listers,
Is a Lucas Sports Coil compatible with the Crane XR700 or should I bite the
bullet and buy a Crane coil along with the Xr700?
TIA
Rick
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 10:17:45 -0600
Subject: Re: Luggage rack
<<and keep in mind that the trunk lid may give before the rack!>>
Doesn't go on the lid itself, Boyo. Boot lid hinges and legs to bumper.
I've had a couple hundred on mine<G>!!
Ed
From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 11:25:50 EST
Subject: BN6 dash top wanted
Hi All, as the assembly process continues, I find myself in need of a dash
top for my BN6. A pattern will do either original wood or paper, but I would
prefer a good used one if anyone has such an animal spare. I believe any
6-cylinder side curtain dash top would be OK, especially blue or possibly
black.
Thanks and
Cheers,
John Wright
BN1
BN6
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 09:10:17 -0800
Subject: Running in
OK,
I have 10W 30 in my brand new engine. How long is the run-in??? What is the rev
limet? For how many miles? When do I re-torque.
I've always wonderd how the race guys break in an engine since there is ussally
a sort time between re-build and race.
Brian Mix
'55 AH-100 LeMans
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
Vice-President Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 12:18:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Luggage rack
The luggage rack on my BJ8 is mounted on the trunk lid. The original owner
had it installed at the dealer where he bought the car.
My personal opinion about the racks that sit on the rear bumper is that they
are too big and awkward-looking. They look like they would interfere quite
a bit with rearward vision if anything is mounted on them. Just my personal
opinion, doncha know?
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: JustBrits <justbrits@mediaone.net>
To: Dennis O'Connor <boyo@homeacres.net>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, January 14, 2001 11:42 AM
Subject: Re: Luggage rack
>
><<and keep in mind that the trunk lid may give before the rack!>>
>
>Doesn't go on the lid itself, Boyo. Boot lid hinges and legs to bumper.
>
>I've had a couple hundred on mine<G>!!
>
>Ed
From "KIRK KVAM" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 09:17:53 -0800
Subject: 1898 Donald Mitchell Healey (DMH) born,
1898: Donald Mitchell Healey (DMH) born,
Just thought you all might like to have this, found it crusing.
It's part of "The Healey Factory.com Australia" web page.
Rick and Gloria, you might want to include it in our newsletter
so others can enjoy.
Kirk Kvam
1898: Donald Mitchell Healey (DMH) born,
Perranporth, Cornwall
1928: DMH wins first RAC Rally
1931: DMH wins Monte Carlo Rally
1945: Donald Healey Motor Company
incorporated
=20
1948: Healey Silverstone roadster
1948: Healey Abbot & Elliott saloons
1949: DMH & Tommy Wisdom take Silverstone
to 2nd/1st in class on Alpine Rally
1949: DMH meets G. Romney of Nash on QE
1950: Silverstone wins production car
race at Brands Hatch
1950: Nash Healey coupe & roadster
1951: DMH & Geoff Healey start 100 prototype
1952: Healey 100 star of Earl's Court show "Overnight" deal with =
Leonard Lord of Austin; rebadged as Austin Healey
1952: First 20 AH cars built at Warwick
=20
=20
1953, May: First Longbridge-built 100 (BN1)
1953, Jul 31: Production,'52-'53: 94
1954, Jul 31: Production,'53-'54: 4424
1955, Jul 31: Production,'54-'55: 5348
1955, Aug: BN2 introduced
1956, May: First 100 Six (BN4)
1956, Jul: Last BN2
=20
1956, Jul 31: Production, '55-'56: 4748
1956, Aug: Series production of BN4
1957, Jul 31: BN4 Prod.,'56-'57: 5541
1957, Oct: Six-port head introduced
1957, Nov: Add. Longbridge Prod.,'57: 1512
1957, Nov: Production moved to Abingdon
1957, Dec: BN4 Production: 329
1958, Mar: Two-seater introduced (BN6)
1958, Dec: BN4 Production: 2794
1958, Dec: BN6 Production: 3821
=20
=20
1959, Mar: 100 Six discontinued
1959, Mar: BN4 Production: 1118
1959, Mar: BN6 Production: 329
1959, Mar: First 3000 (BT7 & BN7)
1959, Dec: Mk. I BT7 Production: 4762
1959, Dec: Mk. I BN7 Production: 1691
=20
1960, Dec: Mk. I BT7 Production: 5920
1960, Dec: Mk. I BN7 Production: 1085=20
1961, Mar: Mk. I BT7 Production: 143
1961, Mar: Mk. I BN7 Production: 49
1961, Mar: Mark II (BT7 & BN7) introduced
1961, Dec: Mk. II BT7 Production: 3155
1961, Dec: Mk. II BN7 Production: 214 =20
=20
1962, Jan: Mk. II BT7 Production: 1941
1962, Jan: Mk. II BN7 Production: 141
1962, Jan: Convertible (BJ7) introduced
1962, Dec: Mk. II BJ7 Production: 2581
1963, Oct: Mk. II BJ7 Production: 3532
1963, Oct: Mark III (BJ8) introduced
1963, Dec: Mk. III P1 BJ8 Production: 344=20
1964, May: Mk. III P1 BJ8 Production: 1046
1964, May: "Phase II" BJ8
=20
1964, Dec: Mk. III P2 BJ8 Production: 3828=20
1965, Dec: Mk. III P2 BJ8 Production: 3947=20
1966, Dec: Mk. III P2 BJ8 Production: 5495=20
1967, Dec: Series production discontinued
1967, Dec: Mk. III P2 BJ8 Production: 3051=20
1968, Mar: Final BJ8 produced (only car in '68)
1968: Healey 4000 prototype rejected by BL
End of relationship with BL
=20
=20
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 13:32:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Running in
Anyone know why a rebuilt engine needs to have the head re-torqued, but a
new engine does not? As far as I know, if you bought a new Healey in 1967,
you didn't have to retorque its head.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Mix <brianmix@home.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, January 14, 2001 12:46 PM
Subject: Running in
>
>OK,
>
>I have 10W 30 in my brand new engine. How long is the run-in??? What is the
rev limet? For how many miles? When do I re-torque.
>
>I've always wonderd how the race guys break in an engine since there is
ussally a sort time between re-build and race.
>
>
>Brian Mix
>'55 AH-100 LeMans
>http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
>
>Vice-President Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 12:50:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Running in
Steve I have only retorqued the heads on something ONE time in my entire
life... and all the failures I have had have been as a resulting damage
inside the motor not the gasket...
Just a thought.... K
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2001 12:32 PM
Subject: Re: Running in
>
> Anyone know why a rebuilt engine needs to have the head re-torqued, but a
> new engine does not? As far as I know, if you bought a new Healey in
1967,
> you didn't have to retorque its head.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brian Mix <brianmix@home.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Sunday, January 14, 2001 12:46 PM
> Subject: Running in
>
>
> >
> >OK,
> >
> >I have 10W 30 in my brand new engine. How long is the run-in??? What is
the
> rev limet? For how many miles? When do I re-torque.
> >
> >I've always wonderd how the race guys break in an engine since there is
> ussally a sort time between re-build and race.
> >
> >
> >Brian Mix
> >'55 AH-100 LeMans
> >http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
> >
> >Vice-President Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 14:09:50 EST
Subject: Re: Luggage rack
In a message dated 01/14/2001 12:16:26 PM Eastern Standard Time,
byers@cconnect.net writes:
<< The luggage rack on my BJ8 is mounted on the trunk lid. >>
This reminds me of something. I have the holes and the mounting hardware for
such a trunk-mounted luggage rack, but the rack itself is long gone. The PO
said it had become rusty and threw the thing out.
Anyone know where I could find a replacement? I don't like the look of the
Moss ones, and would prefer to have the one to match the holes in my car.
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 14:29:00 EST
Subject: Re: Re: Running in
Actually, the Austin dealers were required to give you a free service (except
materials) at or near 500 miles at which time they were supposed to
"...tighten the nuts of cylinder head, valve rocker brackets and manifolds to
recommended pressures"
The owner's manual also describes the "running-in" period for the first 500
miles of driving the new Healey.
My newer cars all have that too.
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 1/14/01 10:31:15 AM, byers@cconnect.net wrote:
<<
Anyone know why a rebuilt engine needs to have the head re-torqued, but a
new engine does not? As far as I know, if you bought a new Healey in 1967,
you didn't have to retorque its head.>>
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 03:30:09 -0500
Subject: Re: the healey story by geoffrey healey
Jerry,
Would you hold 2 of the Salt Flats videos for me and I'll get a check off
to you by weeks end. Many thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 18:09:11 EST
Subject: Re: luggage rack
In a message dated 1/12/01 4:42:43 PM, CAWS52803@aol.com writes:
<< The main suggestion is to use soft luggage that can fit in
every nook and cranny. >>
For those of you who haven't read it, from the book by the Healey enthusiasts
who drove their BT7 from London to Beijing unaccompanied by other cars, they
found that by the time they had packed all their spare parts, tools, and
emergency gear, the only room they had left for personal effects and clothing
were the door panels. So they each packed everything they would personally
need in those slots. One extra pair of pants, one extra shirt, two changes
of underwear and socks, toilet kit, sweater, and jacket. How many of us
could do that ourselves, much less get our significant other to agree?
Cheers
Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 18:35:24 EST
Subject: Re: Luggage rack
I have a BMC brochure that lists accessories available for the BJ8s. On that
list it shows a luggage rack that is in two separate pieces, one flat
assembly that mounts to the trunk lid to spread the weight out, and the
actual rack, that bolts to that assembly. It was also sold for MGBs, and
Triumphs, too, I think. So it isn't impossible for you to have had a BMC
dealer accessory rack that mounted on the lid. However, the one we often see
is the AMCO rack, that fastened to the trunk lid directly with just four
bolts. Would put a lot of stress on the connection points. I certainly
wouldn't recommend using one of those.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
In a message dated 1/14/01 9:16:21 AM, byers@cconnect.net writes:
<< The luggage rack on my BJ8 is mounted on the trunk lid. The original
owner
had it installed at the dealer where he bought the car.
My personal opinion about the racks that sit on the rear bumper is that they
are too big and awkward-looking. They look like they would interfere quite
a bit with rearward vision if anything is mounted on them. Just my personal
opinion, doncha know? >>
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 15:36:43 -0800
Subject: Re: Luggage rack
Not ALL luggage racks go to the bumper. Note page 18, Moss catalog AHY-14.
Healey is shown with "original factory optional rack" that, I believe,
attaches to the lower edge of trunk lid so that trunk can be opened without
disturbing the rack. The picture in Victoria British catalog AH.28, page
15, appears to be the same style. Also, I have seen other racks fastened
directly to the trunk as shown on the same page in Moss for the
Sprite/Midget/MGB and as indicated by other listers. Obviously, if the rack
goes to the bumper, it would be capable of carrying a heavier load.
Len
----- Original Message -----
From: "JustBrits" <justbrits@mediaone.net>
To: "Dennis O'Connor" <boyo@homeacres.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2001 8:17 AM
Subject: Re: Luggage rack
>
> <<and keep in mind that the trunk lid may give before the rack!>>
>
> Doesn't go on the lid itself, Boyo. Boot lid hinges and legs to bumper.
>
> I've had a couple hundred on mine<G>!!
>
> Ed
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 15:46:26 -0800
Subject: RE: Sensible Spares to carry at all times?
At 6:37 PM -0500 1/14/01, Richard Brill wrote:
>Rohan
>
>Jim Werner has put together exactly what you're looking for at his
>website for the Bluegrass Healey Club. I haven't got the URL handy
>but I'll post it oin a day or two if no one else does.
>
The URL has been posted thanks ... in case you didn't get it it is :
http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/jwhahealeychecklist.html
Thanks for everyone's contributions!
Rohan.
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 16:43:59 -0800
Subject: Re: luggage rack / DMH Bag
Gary writes,
"How many of us could do that ourselves"
Well, whenever Donald Healey would come to America,
(excepting the clothing on his back), the only luggage he
would bring, was a canvas / leather travel bag measuring 6"x
10"x 15". I have that bag.
Kirk Kvam
62BT7#3
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2001 3:09 PM
Subject: Re: luggage rack
>
> In a message dated 1/12/01 4:42:43 PM, CAWS52803@aol.com writes:
>
> << The main suggestion is to use soft luggage that can fit in
> every nook and cranny. >>
>
> For those of you who haven't read it, from the book by the Healey
enthusiasts
> who drove their BT7 from London to Beijing unaccompanied by other cars,
they
> found that by the time they had packed all their spare parts, tools, and
> emergency gear, the only room they had left for personal effects and
clothing
> were the door panels. So they each packed everything they would personally
> need in those slots. One extra pair of pants, one extra shirt, two
changes
> of underwear and socks, toilet kit, sweater, and jacket. How many of us
> could do that ourselves, much less get our significant other to agree?
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 20:38:20 EST
Subject: Re: Luggage rack
In a message dated 01/14/2001 6:38:03 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< However, the one we often see
is the AMCO rack, that fastened to the trunk lid directly with just four
bolts. >>
Is that what that is? Do they still make them, and where can I find it? I'm
getting tired of looking at the fasteners that cover my holes in my trunk
lid. I of course don't care about concurse, just want a luggage rack. ;o)
Tim
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 21:10:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Luggage rack
Was the AMCO rack available from the dealers, ie period correct,
in 1960?
Mike L
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: January 14, 2001 6:35 PM
Subject: Re: Luggage rack
>
> I have a BMC brochure that lists accessories available for the
BJ8s. On that
> list it shows a luggage rack that is in two separate pieces, one
flat
> assembly that mounts to the trunk lid to spread the weight out,
and the
> actual rack, that bolts to that assembly. It was also sold for
MGBs, and
> Triumphs, too, I think. So it isn't impossible for you to have
had a BMC
> dealer accessory rack that mounted on the lid. However, the one
we often see
> is the AMCO rack, that fastened to the trunk lid directly with
just four
> bolts. Would put a lot of stress on the connection points. I
certainly
> wouldn't recommend using one of those.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
>
>
> In a message dated 1/14/01 9:16:21 AM, byers@cconnect.net
writes:
>
> << The luggage rack on my BJ8 is mounted on the trunk lid. The
original
> owner
> had it installed at the dealer where he bought the car.
> My personal opinion about the racks that sit on the rear bumper
is that they
> are too big and awkward-looking. They look like they would
interfere quite
> a bit with rearward vision if anything is mounted on them. Just
my personal
> opinion, doncha know? >>
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 18:23:10 -0800
Subject: Re: luggage rack
How many of us could do that ourselves, much less get our significant other to
agree?
Gary:
My SO takes more than that to go to the store.
Ron
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 1/12/01 4:42:43 PM, CAWS52803@aol.com writes:
>
> << The main suggestion is to use soft luggage that can fit in
> every nook and cranny. >>
>
> For those of you who haven't read it, from the book by the Healey enthusiasts
> who drove their BT7 from London to Beijing unaccompanied by other cars, they
> found that by the time they had packed all their spare parts, tools, and
> emergency gear, the only room they had left for personal effects and clothing
> were the door panels. So they each packed everything they would personally
> need in those slots. One extra pair of pants, one extra shirt, two changes
> of underwear and socks, toilet kit, sweater, and jacket. How many of us
> could do that ourselves, much less get our significant other to agree?
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From Richard Brill <alfranken at comic.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 18:37:35 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: Sensible Spares to carry at all times?
Rohan
Jim Werner has put together exactly what you're looking for at his
website for the Bluegrass Healey Club. I haven't got the URL handy but
I'll post it oin a day or two if no one else does.
DickB
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 15:12:14 +0000
Subject: Ring "Gapping"
Tom
>
>Thanks to everyone who responded--and there were lots--to the synthetic oil
>question. I do appreciate the comments. I wll use it, but will use a break
>in "real" oil for a short time first. The 35 year old engine required
>cylinder honing to .020 - and, in 2 cylinders we had to sleeve and hone to
>.020.
>
>On interesting thing the rebuilder found was that the rings had not been
>pre-measured to fit, and he had to take a file to each one and then measure
>to insure the correct fit.
I thought that this was standard practice however perhaps things have
moved on? I have spent many happy hours correctly gapping rings and
found the task quite saisfying.
All the best
> Glad he didn't just stick them in as they came.
>I'm very fortunate, I feel, with this person. He is so knowledgible and
>thorough.
--
John Harper
From "Charles Sither" <crsither at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 13:39:35 -0000
Subject: Speedo & OD Advice
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 09:10:19 EST
Subject: Re: luggage rack, etc. etc.
For anyone interested, I still have several copies of the book The Road to
Beijing available. If you are interested, send me a check for $17 (includes
postage) to:
Rudy Streng
2563 Eagle Ridge Lane
Lenoir, NC 28645
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 08:42:30 -0600
Subject: Resurrection Continues
Hi everyone, hope you all had a good weekend. Just thought I'd document
what I did this weekend in case I'm doing something that someone else may
need some advice. First bit of advice... Don't remove the pedal assembly
just because your pedals aren't even... ;-). Thanks for all the responses,
I got a new retainer clip and everything seems fine now after bleeding the
clutch. I have now moved to the front end. I replaced one of the brake
hoses, I replaced the other one last year. I also painted the calipers and
rotor (not the brake area) with Eastwoods Stainless steel coating, may not
be concours but it sure looks good. I noticed that one of my tires was
wearing through the wires to my parking lights, so I cut, re-soldered,
wrapped and re-directed the wires in the wheel well. I then cleaned, I used
an upholstery needle to clean the inside of the fittings, and greased the
complete front under carriage. One thing I found, this is very important,
and I know it's been stressed here before, Tighten the shock towers. I
found one of my bolts had worked a little loose, if this would have given
way at high speed God only knows what would have happened.. Replaced the
tires and cleaned the spokes, what a pain, anybody have a quick and easy way
to clean spoked wheels?
Steve
61 BN7
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 09:45:47 EST
Subject: Re: Luggage rack
In a message dated 1/14/01 6:38:03 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< the one we often see
is the AMCO rack, that fastened to the trunk lid directly with just four
bolts. Would put a lot of stress on the connection points. I certainly
wouldn't recommend using one of those. >>
Years ago I was travelling in a Healey with a rack that mounted to the lid
and was involved in a frontal-impact accident. We were almost beheaded by
the rack as it sailed low over the windshield, all the luggage still
attached. Think about it....
Michael Oritt, BN1
From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 10:08:07 -0500
Subject: rear hub bearings
Could anyone offer me advice concerning the rear hub bearings. On
replacement of the seals on these hubs should the bearing be packed as
is normal with wheel bearings or do they get lubed by the oil in the
rear housing? After removal of the hub I note the bearing does not
have any gease at all,but was oily from the rear housing oil.
Thanks-Bill Pollock
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 10:51:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Resurrection Continues
>Replaced the
>tires and cleaned the spokes, what a pain, anybody have a quick and easy
way
>to clean spoked wheels?
Hi, Steve -
To keep the hub grease from being slung out onto the spokes, it's good to
seal them. The only thing I have found so far that isn't attacked by the
grease is body seam sealant -- you know, that stuff that is brushed onto
the interior panels along the seams.
I use a toothbrush to clean my chrome wires with Simple Green. You might
find that an old toothbrush with the bristle head bent up about 45 degrees
gets behind the spokes better than a straight brush. It takes me about a
half hour to do all four wheels.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Kocik, Stephen W <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, January 15, 2001 10:02 AM
Subject: Resurrection Continues
>
>Hi everyone, hope you all had a good weekend. Just thought I'd document
>what I did this weekend in case I'm doing something that someone else may
>need some advice. First bit of advice... Don't remove the pedal assembly
>just because your pedals aren't even... ;-). Thanks for all the responses,
>I got a new retainer clip and everything seems fine now after bleeding the
>clutch. I have now moved to the front end. I replaced one of the brake
>hoses, I replaced the other one last year. I also painted the calipers and
>rotor (not the brake area) with Eastwoods Stainless steel coating, may not
>be concours but it sure looks good. I noticed that one of my tires was
>wearing through the wires to my parking lights, so I cut, re-soldered,
>wrapped and re-directed the wires in the wheel well. I then cleaned, I
used
>an upholstery needle to clean the inside of the fittings, and greased the
>complete front under carriage. One thing I found, this is very important,
>and I know it's been stressed here before, Tighten the shock towers. I
>found one of my bolts had worked a little loose, if this would have given
>way at high speed God only knows what would have happened.. Replaced the
>tires and cleaned the spokes, what a pain, anybody have a quick and easy
way
>to clean spoked wheels?
>
> Steve
> 61 BN7
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 09:39:37 -0600
Subject: Re: Ring "Gapping"
<<I thought that this was standard practice however perhaps things have
moved on? >>
No, John, things haven't "moved on". <G><G>
Ed
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 10:54:19 -0500
Subject: Re: rear hub bearings
Hi, Bill -
The rear bearings are normally lubed by the rear housing oil. When I
replaced the bearings in the rear axle of my '73 Midget, I packed them with
grease. I figured the grease would eventually dissolve in the oil, but
meanwhile the bearings would be lubricated. Seems to have worked. After
40,000 miles I haven't had any problems with the bearings.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Pollock <wjpollock@erols.com>
To: list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, January 15, 2001 10:14 AM
Subject: rear hub bearings
>
>Could anyone offer me advice concerning the rear hub bearings. On
>replacement of the seals on these hubs should the bearing be packed as
>is normal with wheel bearings or do they get lubed by the oil in the
>rear housing? After removal of the hub I note the bearing does not
>have any gease at all,but was oily from the rear housing oil.
>
>Thanks-Bill Pollock
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 05:34:20 -0500
Subject: Re:BN1 Rear Wing
Hi,
I have available a very nice rear wing, passenger side for a BN1. There
are no dings or dents and it would only need the lower half of front
section repair panel. If interested please contact me off the list.
Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 08:50:36 -0800
Subject: Re: Resurrection Continues
I would suggest a wire wheel brush. They work great, still slow but does a
good job of all the nook and crannies. The brush actually lets you do the
inside of the wheel . Use lots of sudsy detergent and then go over with soft
mitt...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2001 6:42 AM
Subject: Resurrection Continues
>
> Hi everyone, hope you all had a good weekend. Just thought I'd document
> what I did this weekend in case I'm doing something that someone else may
> need some advice. First bit of advice... Don't remove the pedal assembly
> just because your pedals aren't even... ;-). Thanks for all the
responses,
> I got a new retainer clip and everything seems fine now after bleeding the
> clutch. I have now moved to the front end. I replaced one of the brake
> hoses, I replaced the other one last year. I also painted the calipers
and
> rotor (not the brake area) with Eastwoods Stainless steel coating, may not
> be concours but it sure looks good. I noticed that one of my tires was
> wearing through the wires to my parking lights, so I cut, re-soldered,
> wrapped and re-directed the wires in the wheel well. I then cleaned, I
used
> an upholstery needle to clean the inside of the fittings, and greased the
> complete front under carriage. One thing I found, this is very important,
> and I know it's been stressed here before, Tighten the shock towers. I
> found one of my bolts had worked a little loose, if this would have given
> way at high speed God only knows what would have happened.. Replaced the
> tires and cleaned the spokes, what a pain, anybody have a quick and easy
way
> to clean spoked wheels?
>
> Steve
> 61 BN7
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 08:57:56 -0800
Subject: Re: Resurrection Continues
Concentrated simple green in a spray bottle is amazing. I also use it on the
engine for cleaning.
ron
Steve Byers wrote:
> >Replaced the
> >tires and cleaned the spokes, what a pain, anybody have a quick and easy
> way
> >to clean spoked wheels?
>
> Hi, Steve -
>
> To keep the hub grease from being slung out onto the spokes, it's good to
> seal them. The only thing I have found so far that isn't attacked by the
> grease is body seam sealant -- you know, that stuff that is brushed onto
> the interior panels along the seams.
>
> I use a toothbrush to clean my chrome wires with Simple Green. You might
> find that an old toothbrush with the bristle head bent up about 45 degrees
> gets behind the spokes better than a straight brush. It takes me about a
> half hour to do all four wheels.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kocik, Stephen W <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Monday, January 15, 2001 10:02 AM
> Subject: Resurrection Continues
>
> >
> >Hi everyone, hope you all had a good weekend. Just thought I'd document
> >what I did this weekend in case I'm doing something that someone else may
> >need some advice. First bit of advice... Don't remove the pedal assembly
> >just because your pedals aren't even... ;-). Thanks for all the responses,
> >I got a new retainer clip and everything seems fine now after bleeding the
> >clutch. I have now moved to the front end. I replaced one of the brake
> >hoses, I replaced the other one last year. I also painted the calipers and
> >rotor (not the brake area) with Eastwoods Stainless steel coating, may not
> >be concours but it sure looks good. I noticed that one of my tires was
> >wearing through the wires to my parking lights, so I cut, re-soldered,
> >wrapped and re-directed the wires in the wheel well. I then cleaned, I
> used
> >an upholstery needle to clean the inside of the fittings, and greased the
> >complete front under carriage. One thing I found, this is very important,
> >and I know it's been stressed here before, Tighten the shock towers. I
> >found one of my bolts had worked a little loose, if this would have given
> >way at high speed God only knows what would have happened.. Replaced the
> >tires and cleaned the spokes, what a pain, anybody have a quick and easy
> way
> >to clean spoked wheels?
> >
> > Steve
> > 61 BN7
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 12:24:01 EST
Subject: Re: Resurrection Continues
In a message dated 1/15/01 6:46:11 AM, Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com writes:
<< Replaced the
tires and cleaned the spokes, what a pain, anybody have a quick and easy way
to clean spoked wheels?
Steve >>
Find a compulsive sports-car loving kid in the neighborhood who will clean
your wheels in return for rides in the car. How many of us got our start in
this hobby by hanging around the neighbor's garage on a Saturday hoping he'd
let us "help?"
Cheers
Gary
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 12:37:44 -0500
Subject: RE: Resurrection Continues
Good idea Gary, but back then there were no video games to keep us occupied.
Now they can set up a car and race it without all the work involved... ;-)
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2001 12:24 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Resurrection Continues
In a message dated 1/15/01 6:46:11 AM, Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com writes:
<< Replaced the
tires and cleaned the spokes, what a pain, anybody have a quick and easy way
to clean spoked wheels?
Steve >>
Find a compulsive sports-car loving kid in the neighborhood who will clean
your wheels in return for rides in the car. How many of us got our start in
this hobby by hanging around the neighbor's garage on a Saturday hoping he'd
let us "help?"
Cheers
Gary
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 10:29:45 -0800
Subject: Re: Resurrection Continues
Simple green is great stuff, just don't let it dry in the sun. Only spray
enough that you can work on in a few minutes. I use it on my trailer for
removing those black streaks. For tires, Fantastic works great, the brown
crap just runs off. Again don't let it dry on the tires....and Ron finally a
clear sunny day, only thing it's about 0 deg C (30 deg F). Don't have to
worry about the Simple Green drying today...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2001 8:57 AM
Subject: Re: Resurrection Continues
>
> Concentrated simple green in a spray bottle is amazing. I also use it on
the
> engine for cleaning.
> ron
>
> Steve Byers wrote:
>
> > >Replaced the
> > >tires and cleaned the spokes, what a pain, anybody have a quick and
easy
> > way
> > >to clean spoked wheels?
> >
> > Hi, Steve -
> >
> > To keep the hub grease from being slung out onto the spokes, it's good
to
> > seal them. The only thing I have found so far that isn't attacked by
the
> > grease is body seam sealant -- you know, that stuff that is brushed
onto
> > the interior panels along the seams.
> >
> > I use a toothbrush to clean my chrome wires with Simple Green. You
might
> > find that an old toothbrush with the bristle head bent up about 45
degrees
> > gets behind the spokes better than a straight brush. It takes me about
a
> > half hour to do all four wheels.
> >
> > Steve Byers
> > HBJ8L/36666
> > Havelock, NC USA
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Kocik, Stephen W <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Date: Monday, January 15, 2001 10:02 AM
> > Subject: Resurrection Continues
> >
> > >
> > >Hi everyone, hope you all had a good weekend. Just thought I'd
document
> > >what I did this weekend in case I'm doing something that someone else
may
> > >need some advice. First bit of advice... Don't remove the pedal
assembly
> > >just because your pedals aren't even... ;-). Thanks for all the
responses,
> > >I got a new retainer clip and everything seems fine now after bleeding
the
> > >clutch. I have now moved to the front end. I replaced one of the
brake
> > >hoses, I replaced the other one last year. I also painted the calipers
and
> > >rotor (not the brake area) with Eastwoods Stainless steel coating, may
not
> > >be concours but it sure looks good. I noticed that one of my tires was
> > >wearing through the wires to my parking lights, so I cut, re-soldered,
> > >wrapped and re-directed the wires in the wheel well. I then cleaned, I
> > used
> > >an upholstery needle to clean the inside of the fittings, and greased
the
> > >complete front under carriage. One thing I found, this is very
important,
> > >and I know it's been stressed here before, Tighten the shock towers. I
> > >found one of my bolts had worked a little loose, if this would have
given
> > >way at high speed God only knows what would have happened.. Replaced
the
> > >tires and cleaned the spokes, what a pain, anybody have a quick and
easy
> > way
> > >to clean spoked wheels?
> > >
> > > Steve
> > > 61 BN7
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 16:45:58 -0500
Subject: Hardtop Dilemma
Hi folks. A few days ago I sent out an email for advice on a four seater
hardtop value. Thanks to everyone who responded. However, I now have a
dilemma. I'm not sure whether it's a two or four seater top.
I remember a short while back that there was some discussion about serial
numbers, with the understanding that four seater tops started with a 4 in
the number, and two seater tops started with a 6. Was this conclusive ?
I've discovered that my (supposed) four seater top's serial number starts
with a 6. I also have a two seater top for my BN7 which also starts with
a 6. Could it be that they are both two seater tops ? And the top that
came with my recently sold BT7 was a mismatched two seater ?
I purchased the two seater top about two years ago from a reputable lister.
When it arrived I compared it to my BT7 top and had a very hard time telling
any difference. Finally, I discovered that the bottom part of the aluminum
trim of the two seater top had a fold that allowed the car's surround to
pass by unobstructed. That was the only difference I could find. Does
the fact that the mystery top doesn't have a fold mean it's a four seater
despite the serial number ?
I've taken pictures of both units for comparison. They can be viewed at:
http://www.photohighway.com/Albums/SAlbum.asp?AID=9538,1053810
Some pictures have brief explanations included that can be read after double
clicking to enlarge the photo. Take note of the picture "Bottom trim
comparison", which shows the fold on the two seater trim. Any ideas for
other pictures are welcome.
Regards,
Mike L.
Bridgewater, NJ
'56 BN2
'59 BN7
'60 BT7 - SOLD
'60 Bugeye
'67 Mustang 2+2
'70 E-Type
'79 Midget
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 16:50:26 EST
Subject: Re: Resurrection Continues
In a message dated 1/15/01 12:04:30 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rader@interworld.net writes:
<< Concentrated simple green in a spray bottle is amazing. I also use it on
the
engine for cleaning. >>
And you can wash your dog in it as well!
Best--Michael
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 14:15:42 -0800
Subject: RE: Hardtop Dilemma
Hi Mike,
In Gary Anderson and Roger Moment's "Austin-Healey 100/100-6/3000
Restoration Guide" page 126, it talks about the Optional Accessories for the
BN4, BN6, BN7, and BT7...
"Hardtops to fit the two-seat and occasional four-seat cars were available
from the factory as options... The only difference between the hardtops for
the two-seat and occasional four-seat cars was in the curve of the top at
the rear where it followed the profile of the shroud and in the size of the
rear window."
Great book (http://www.healey.org/new-book.shtml)
I didn't read anything about serial numbers.
Brad
'55 Hundred
BN1 #226796
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael Lempert
>
> I purchased the two seater top about two years ago from a
> reputable lister.
> When it arrived I compared it to my BT7 top and had a very hard
> time telling
> any difference. Finally, I discovered that the bottom part of
> the aluminum
> trim of the two seater top had a fold that allowed the car's surround to
> pass by unobstructed. That was the only difference I could find. Does
> the fact that the mystery top doesn't have a fold mean it's a four seater
> despite the serial number ?
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 17:38:18 EST
Subject: Re: Resurrection Continues
The best way I have found to clean chrome wire wheels (not painted!!) came
from a professional detailer I used when I ran an Airport car rental agency
and car sales lot.
The chrome wheels on the Shuttle Buses were always caked with brake dust.
They crawl around the airport all day and eat brakes constantly. He used an
Air Conditioner Coil Cleaner as a chrome wheel cleaner. It's a mild
phosphoric acid used to clean the coils on A/C units. We used it on the bus
wheels once per week for years without detriment. So after testing the
product long term on someone else's vehicles I tried it on the Healey. It
works fantastic and is effortless.
This is not something you do without caution, dangerous chemicals here. I cut
the solution with water and you absolutely cannot get it on the paint of the
car. I always pull all four wheels each spring, grease the splines and do an
inspection so I normally do this with the wheels off the car and away from
the car.
It's something I do once, maybe twice a year but it makes the wheels look
like new. My wheels are chrome with chrome spokes so I don't know how this
would work with stainless steel spokes.
I use a spray bottle to apply. After you use the spray bottle you have to
flush it with water or the chemical will eat through the sprayer.
Whenever I wash my car I always dry the wheels with an air hose hooked to my
compressor. Always makes the wheels look brighter and eliminates the water
spots.
For crevice cleaning I use a foam paint brush. It forms itself to get into
the small areas and is faster than a toothbrush.
If you try the Coil Cleaner be careful but it does do a remarkable job.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
Visit my Bluegrass Austin Healey Club site at bluegrassclub.com
And visit my British Sports Car Club of KY site at britishsportscarclub.com.
From "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 17:41:48 -0500
Subject: Jim Werners site
In a recent posting, it was suggested to someone that they visit Jim Werners
site - http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/jimwerner.html with an admonishment that
one could spend hours there. I did but couldn't spend that much time 'cause my
better half starting yelling that I had already missed dinner and she was
going to throw mine out unless I paid her some attention.
This is a great site and, believe me, it is superbly indexed and has just
about everything on it. I've bookmarked for future enjoyment.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
From "Robert Johnson" <bandrj at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 17:46:29 -0800
Subject: brakes won't bleed
My '66 3000 has been parked for thirteen years because of engine problems. (I
paid to get it fixed, but nothing happened.) I'm over it and ready to move
forward again, but before it try to go, I'll need to stop, but the system had
leaked down.
I have been trying to bleed the brake system, but no joy. Fluid in reservoir.
Clutch came up OK. Brakes will not. I have checked for fluid in the system all
along the way (to the bleeders). In every instance, pressure on the pedal
yields fluid at any joint that I break open. Yet, when I open the bleeders and
apply pressure, no fluid will appear. Removed bleeders and checked for stopped
up, not a problem. Does anyone have any ideas?
TIA,
Bob Johnson
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 18:03:17 EST
Subject: Re: Hardtop Dilemma
The serial number may not be conclusive as the PO of one of my hardtops had
actually changed a four seater top into a two seater top. The conversion was
a sloppily bent lower trim piece and hole in the shroud to bolt the top
directly on.
A two seater top will have longer rear mounting brackets (almost 6" long)
Rick
San Diego
From "AH102 at home.com" <ah102@home.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 18:10:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Hardtop Dilemma
Mike: I looked at your photos and I believe both hardtops are for the
two-seater car. Perhaps one way to tell for sure is to look at the mounting
brackets with the J hooks. The two seater brackets are noticeably longer.
The following is copied from the Healey List archives on Listquest. Looks
like Ron Mitchell has the right formula.
Jim
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------
"................In answer to your question about determining the difference
between a
2+2 and
an 2 seater hard top you should look for the following.
1. Look at the aluminum extrusion at the rear of the Hard Top where it
mates
to the car. The 2+2 hard top sits on the Aluminum surround and is flat
over
the entire mating surface. The 2 seater hard top sits on the body and
follows
the shape of the body. The aluminum extrusion will dip downward around
the
area at the outer ends of the plexiglass rear window approximately 9/16
of an
inch.
2. If the J Bolt mounting brackets are still on the hard top you can
measure
them to determine which top it is. The 2+2 hard top brackets are a
little
over 2 inches long. The 2 seater hard top brackets are over 4 inches
long.
The only difference between the 2 hard tops is the Plexiglass rear
window, the rear lower aluiminum extrusion, the rear body seals and the two
mounting
brackets. They are identical in all other respects............
Ron Mitchell
Ortonville, Michigan............"
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 17:12:09 -0600
Subject: Re: brakes won't bleed
Hi Robert,
Check for collapsed rubber brake lines by cracking the 'acorn' nut loose
on the other end of the line where it meets the chassis. If you get fluid
there, replace the lines. Good luck.
Peter (BMC Restorations)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2001 7:46 PM
Subject: brakes won't bleed
>
> My '66 3000 has been parked for thirteen years because of engine problems.
(I
> paid to get it fixed, but nothing happened.) I'm over it and ready to move
> forward again, but before it try to go, I'll need to stop, but the system
had
> leaked down.
>
> I have been trying to bleed the brake system, but no joy. Fluid in
reservoir.
> Clutch came up OK. Brakes will not. I have checked for fluid in the system
all
> along the way (to the bleeders). In every instance, pressure on the pedal
> yields fluid at any joint that I break open. Yet, when I open the bleeders
and
> apply pressure, no fluid will appear. Removed bleeders and checked for
stopped
> up, not a problem. Does anyone have any ideas?
>
> TIA,
>
> Bob Johnson
From JBrown5093 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 20:56:05 EST
Subject: Re: Luggage rack
Another problem with trunk mounted racks is that when heavily loaded do not
raise the boot lid without proping up the passenger side of the lid. The lid
can flex enough to cause damage. My solution is a short piece of broomstick.
Jim Brown
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 20:29:13 -0600
Subject: Tank repair
Hi Fellows
Just off the phone with one of my Healey buddies here, Gerry Threlfell,
Gerry has a BT7. Gerry asked for some input on ways to repair the gas
tank. His tank has a leak on the portion of the tank which rests against
or on the boot floor (it has rusted through at this area of the tank).
Any suggestions short of replacing the tank would be appreciated.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 21:43:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Hardtop Dilemma
Thanks Jim. I compared the J-bolt brackets and they are identical at 4.5
inches.
Regards,
Mike L.
> Mike: I looked at your photos and I believe both hardtops are for the
> two-seater car. Perhaps one way to tell for sure is to look at the
mounting
> brackets with the J hooks. The two seater brackets are noticeably longer.
>
> The following is copied from the Healey List archives on Listquest. Looks
> like Ron Mitchell has the right formula.
>
> Jim
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> ---------------------------
> "................In answer to your question about determining the
difference
> between a
> 2+2 and
> an 2 seater hard top you should look for the following.
>
> 1. Look at the aluminum extrusion at the rear of the Hard Top where it
> mates
> to the car. The 2+2 hard top sits on the Aluminum surround and is flat
> over
> the entire mating surface. The 2 seater hard top sits on the body and
> follows
> the shape of the body. The aluminum extrusion will dip downward around
> the
> area at the outer ends of the plexiglass rear window approximately 9/16
> of an
> inch.
>
> 2. If the J Bolt mounting brackets are still on the hard top you can
> measure
> them to determine which top it is. The 2+2 hard top brackets are a
> little
> over 2 inches long. The 2 seater hard top brackets are over 4 inches
> long.
>
> The only difference between the 2 hard tops is the Plexiglass rear
> window, the rear lower aluiminum extrusion, the rear body seals and the
two
> mounting
> brackets. They are identical in all other respects............
>
> Ron Mitchell
> Ortonville, Michigan............"
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 21:54:54 EST
Subject: Re: RE: Hardtop Dilemma
In a message dated 1/15/01 2:20:30 PM, brad@bradw.com writes:
<<
I didn't read anything about serial numbers.
Brad >>
We didn't know about the numbers when we wrote the book. As far as we know
now, the prefix 6 indicates the top fits a BN6 (i.e. two seater) and the
prefix 4 indicates a BN4 (i.e. four-seater).
Cheers
Gary
From robert hughes <dhugh at mail.tscnet.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 18:58:46 -0800
Subject: Resurrection Continues
Speaking of shock towers, does anyone know the torque spec is
for the bolts? I read somewhere that they were torqued to 45 ft/lbs.
Is this correct?
Thanks,
Robert Hughes
65 BJ8
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 22:20:31 EST
Subject: Re: rear hub bearings
The outer rear axle bearings are supplied oil from the differential. It is
not necessary to pack these bearings with grease, but it would help when you
first start driving after installing new bearings to have some grease in the
bearings.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 22:26:16 EST
Subject: Re: Resurrection Continues
They shoould be 45-50 ft lbs I would also recomend using new grade 8 bolts
and using some RED loctite on the threads when install the new bolts. Also
take a close look at the threads in the shock plates before intalling.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 20:34:54 -0800
Subject: Re: Resurrection Continues
Robert, 45 lbs is correct and no more or you risk stripping the captive
nuts on the front shock towers. The rears are important to keep tightened as
well or the holes become elongated. I think they should be tightened
everytime you change the oil or the rear anytime you remove the rear wheels.
They will all loosen over time and if you do an annual overall at least do
them then....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "robert hughes" <dhugh@mail.tscnet.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2001 6:58 PM
Subject: Resurrection Continues
>
> Speaking of shock towers, does anyone know the torque spec is
> for the bolts? I read somewhere that they were torqued to 45 ft/lbs.
> Is this correct?
> Thanks,
>
> Robert Hughes
> 65 BJ8
From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 22:32:19 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Forwarded message
For some reason, this was sent to me rather than healeys@autox.team.net.
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 14:27:38 -0600
From: Mills <gsbmills@swbell.net>
Subject: Wire wheels
What kind of sealant should be used on the spokes inside the rim for
tubeless chrome wire wheels? I seem to have a slow leak and a couple of
these look damaged.
Gary Mills
------- End of forwarded message -------
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 22:38:05 -0800
Subject: Coils and the XR700
Listers: Has anyone using a Crane (formerly Allison) XR700 ignition system
had excessive coil failures? I went through several coils averaging around
3000 miles per coil. Asking locally, I found no other such cases. I provided
Allison and Crane with all the possible data I could measure - voltages,
resistances, temperatures, etc., and they claim to be baffled as to a cause.
I am curious to know if I am the only one with this problem. (NOTE: I
installed a Pertronix about 2500 miles ago. It hasn't missed a beat - YET!)
Len.
From njones at amadeus.net
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 08:41:36 +0100
Subject: Re: Hardtop Dilemma
Yes you definately have a 2 seater hardtop.
The '6' denoted the first model the hardtop was made for..BN6..
a '4' would denote BN4..4 seater..also fits BT7s..
They are even rarer than the four seater tops..I also have one on my BN7.
From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 19:29:13 -0800
Subject: Re: Crane XR700 & Lucas Sports Coil
Rick,
I've been running this combo on my Lotus now for 5k miles, no problems and good
hot spark.....Jerry Rude
BJ8
HealeyRic2@aol.com wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Is a Lucas Sports Coil compatible with the Crane XR700 or should I bite the
> bullet and buy a Crane coil along with the Xr700?
>
> TIA
> Rick
From Biloselhir at aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 08:54:47 EST
Subject: Gas tank straps
On my newly acquired 59 BN4 that had been in storage for at least 20 years
(had been "restored" by previous owner and son then stored in garage), I had
a shop put in new gas tank and fuel lines, etc as well as a new fuel sender.
The straps that go over the gas tank are on top of the carpeting. Is this
how they are supposed to go? Gas gage is not registering (registered a few
times then stopped) and this makes getting at the sender difficult.
Being new to the Healey experience this site has been great to look through
every day for ideas and solutions. Thanks to everyone that shares their
knowledge!
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 08:05:41 -0600
Subject: Re: Gas tank straps
On the Hundred the straps go below the carpet.. and I think it's the same
for the BN4 .... K
----------
> From: Biloselhir@aol.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Gas tank straps
> Date: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 7:54 AM
>
>
> On my newly acquired 59 BN4 that had been in storage for at least 20
years
> (had been "restored" by previous owner and son then stored in garage), I
had
> a shop put in new gas tank and fuel lines, etc as well as a new fuel
sender.
> The straps that go over the gas tank are on top of the carpeting. Is
this
> how they are supposed to go? Gas gage is not registering (registered a
few
> times then stopped) and this makes getting at the sender difficult.
>
> Being new to the Healey experience this site has been great to look
through
> every day for ideas and solutions. Thanks to everyone that shares their
> knowledge!
From RandallC2 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 09:50:38 EST
Subject: Door Removal
I need to remove the door of my BN2 for some repairs. Never having to do this
before, I'm looking for any words of wisdom. Also, what are the hinge bolts
bolted to?
Any advice, other than not removing, will be appreciated.
Randy Hicks
BN2
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 10:11:55 -0500
Subject: Re: rear hub bearings
Why not just preoil them with diff oil. I have read there may some
greases and oil combinations that are not compatible.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <wjpollock@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: January 15, 2001 10:20 PM
Subject: Re: rear hub bearings
>
> The outer rear axle bearings are supplied oil from the
differential. It is
> not necessary to pack these bearings with grease, but it would
help when you
> first start driving after installing new bearings to have some
grease in the
> bearings.
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif. 95205
> 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at <A
HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
> Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 09:18:40 -0600
Subject: RE: Door Removal
If the door fit is okay before removal, I would suggest scribing a line
around the hinges onto the door pillar so that mounting would be easier.
Just line it up with the scribe mark when replacing. Also, to make it
easier to do by yourself, I remove the retainer and then the bottom hinge
first. The hinge bolts attach to a threaded plate behind the door pillar,
these are a lot of fun to line up when replacing the door. I used a
punch(drift) to hold the hinge and the plate in place while replacing the
bolts.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: RandallC2@aol.com [mailto:RandallC2@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 9:51 AM
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Door Removal
I need to remove the door of my BN2 for some repairs. Never having to do
this
before, I'm looking for any words of wisdom. Also, what are the hinge bolts
bolted to?
Any advice, other than not removing, will be appreciated.
Randy Hicks
BN2
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 10:29:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Gas tank straps
The straps should go under the carpet for simple aesthetic looks, if not
concours standards. On my BT7, the straps had rubber (old tire tube?)
strips cushioning between strap and tank.
The sender probably has a poor ground. The gas tank must be grounded to the
chassis. I ran a wire from under one of the screws holding the sender into
the tank to a ground spot on the back of the chassis near the tail lights.
Gage ran find thereafter.
---
Lee Mairs
'62 Mk II Tri-carb
---
Whenever you find that you are on the side of the majority, it is time to
reform.
--Mark Twain
From "Joseph Giuliano" <joe.giuliano at giuliano.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 10:26:45 -0500
Subject: 67 AH3000 BJ8 for sale
I sent this ad out a couple of months ago. I had some light interest but no
takers. I would like to sell the car and would accept reasonable offers. I
have not advertised it locally yet nor have taken the e-bay or auto-trader
route. I guess that would be next.
For sale. 1967 BJ8. 63K miles. Owned by same family since new. This was my
brother's high school graduation present.
Recently restored (never driven since). New top and carpets, Optima battery,
original seats, dash, new dash cover. Paint is great. No rust.
In Fort Lauderdale, FL.
See these pictures for an idea of what this car looks like.
If you have any questions please e-mail me at joe.giuliano@giuliano.com
This is a very nice car with a well documented history.
http://joe.giuliano.home.mindspring.com/default.htm
Joe Giuliano
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 07:47:09 -0800
Subject: RE: Door Removal
Stephen,
Instead of the punch, try a threaded rod with a slot cut across the top for
the screw driver. It gives a lot more control and lets you actually position
the plate.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Kocik, Stephen W [mailto:Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 7:19 AM
To: RandallC2@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Door Removal
If the door fit is okay before removal, I would suggest scribing a line
around the hinges onto the door pillar so that mounting would be easier.
Just line it up with the scribe mark when replacing. Also, to make it
easier to do by yourself, I remove the retainer and then the bottom hinge
first. The hinge bolts attach to a threaded plate behind the door pillar,
these are a lot of fun to line up when replacing the door. I used a
punch(drift) to hold the hinge and the plate in place while replacing the
bolts.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: RandallC2@aol.com [mailto:RandallC2@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 9:51 AM
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Door Removal
I need to remove the door of my BN2 for some repairs. Never having to do
this
before, I'm looking for any words of wisdom. Also, what are the hinge bolts
bolted to?
Any advice, other than not removing, will be appreciated.
Randy Hicks
BN2
From "Sam Marble" <samncyna at netzero.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 11:11:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Tank repair
If the tank is still structurally solid, I have had good luck with the
products that POR 15 sells that are in cluded in their gas tank repair
kit. There is a solvent to remove all gas residue, a rust remover and
stabilizer, and a urethane sealer which has held up well in the tanks
I have done.
I would also recommend cleaning and sealing the exterior of the tank
with POR 15 and then spray the tank with some ruberized undercoating
to completely seal out the moisture. If the rust holes are larger than
pin holes you can have some success using the POR 15 with some fiber
glass cloth.
Make sure that the sending unit is still making proper contact with
the metal surface of the tank to ensure proper operation.
Sam BN4
----- Original Message -----
From: "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: "Austin Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2001 9:29 PM
Subject: Tank repair
>
> Hi Fellows
>
> Just off the phone with one of my Healey buddies here, Gerry
Threlfell,
> Gerry has a BT7. Gerry asked for some input on ways to repair the
gas
> tank. His tank has a leak on the portion of the tank which rests
against
> or on the boot floor (it has rusted through at this area of the
tank).
> Any suggestions short of replacing the tank would be appreciated.
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon
>
Shop online without a credit card
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
From "AH102 at home.com" <ah102@home.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 11:15:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Door Removal
Randy:
Here is my $.02 based on experience:
If you are happy with the door alignment, you can save some installation
time if you mark the hinge location before removing... maybe even drill
some small (1/16-1/8") holes through the hinge and pillar before loosening,
then pin on re-installation. If there are any shims between the hinge and
the pillar, make sure they go back into the same location. Be sure to
disconnect the door check before removing the door. Have an assistant
hold the door while you work the hinge screws otherwise you may damage the
paint. The flathead screws attach each hinge to the pillar with a large nut
plate captured on the inside of the pillar. Make sure you use a very good
screwdriver (#4 phillips I believe) when you remove the screws. If they
dont budge, try an impact driver before you strip the screwdriver slot. Use
some penterating oil. If you have to drill out the screws, you may have to
replace or repair the nut plate.
Good Luck, Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <RandallC2@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 9:50 AM
Subject: Door Removal
>
> I need to remove the door of my BN2 for some repairs. Never having to do
this
> before, I'm looking for any words of wisdom. Also, what are the hinge
bolts
> bolted to?
>
> Any advice, other than not removing, will be appreciated.
>
> Randy Hicks
> BN2
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 11:43:12 EST
Subject: Re: Gas tank straps
In a message dated 1/16/01 5:57:58 AM, Biloselhir@aol.com writes:
<< The straps that go over the gas tank are on top of the carpeting. Is this
how they are supposed to go? >>
No, the straps should be around the gas tank, with nothing in between them
and the tank. When you say "carpet" do you mean a real rug-like carpet or the
ribbed "armacord" that was used to line all Healey trunks? If it's carpet,
then your previous owner did that wrong (and you might start checking
carefully for other similar alterations on the car.) It should be armacord,
and on the BN4 it should lie loosely on top of the tank, extending down into
the sides and between the tank and the rear shroud at the back of the car.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 08:59:20 -0800
Subject: Re: Door Removal
Take the hinges off the door pillar (leave the hinges attached to the
door). I was taking the front fenders off too, so I could get at the
back of the pillar and the nutplates with penetrant and ultimately the
heat of a jeweler's oxyacetylene torch. That plus a screwdriver with
a hex head suitable for wrenching on did the trick on my 47 year old
BN1's rusty screws. The wrench-screwdriver torque is controllable so
you don't mess up the heads on the screws. Take a couple of days and
let the penetrant work if you can manage it. PB Blaster works the
best but has silicones in it that can make your next paint job a
chore. I try Kroil first, myself.
-Roland
early BN1, BJ7
On Tue, 16 Jan 2001 09:50:38 EST, RandallC2@aol.com wrote:
::
:: I need to remove the door of my BN2 for some repairs. Never having to do
:this
:: before, I'm looking for any words of wisdom. Also, what are the hinge bolts
:: bolted to?
::
:: Any advice, other than not removing, will be appreciated.
::
:: Randy Hicks
:: BN2
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 12:05:03 -0500
Subject: Butler salvage yard, Suffolk, VA
Good morning, Healeyphiles!
Would anyone in the Tidewater area of Virginia know how to contact Mr. Randy
Butler, who used to own Butler's salvage yard near Suffolk, VA? An Austrian
Healey enthusiast would like to get in touch with him. If anyone can help,
please contact me off-list.
Thanks!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 16:38:49 +1000
Subject: Re: Resurrection Continues
> Find a compulsive sports-car loving kid in the neighborhood who will clean
> your wheels in return for rides in the car. How many of us got our start
in
> this hobby by hanging around the neighbor's garage on a Saturday hoping
he'd
> let us "help?"
>
Smart idea - lazy but SMART
Now where have all those little buggers gone ??
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 10:44:15 -0800
Subject: RE: Crane XR700 & Lucas Sports Coil
I also have this combination since the early 80's (Allison before Crane).
The tach doesn't work properly, but that is the only coil problems I have
had. I do have an off idle stumble that only really goes away when I pull
out the choke cable or outside temps are really warm. That stumble also went
away when I substituted another distributer with points. Someday I will get
around to fixing it.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Rude [mailto:gdrude@pacbell.net]
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2001 7:29 PM
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net; spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Crane XR700 & Lucas Sports Coil
Rick,
I've been running this combo on my Lotus now for 5k miles, no problems and
good
hot spark.....Jerry Rude
BJ8
HealeyRic2@aol.com wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Is a Lucas Sports Coil compatible with the Crane XR700 or should I bite
the
> bullet and buy a Crane coil along with the Xr700?
>
> TIA
> Rick
From "Coop" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 13:00:29 -0800
Subject: What were they thinking? was Gas tank straps
You know, the first time I saw that shiny Armacord sitting atop my gas tank
with no metal plate separating it I thought that either the Austin Healey
company was completely out of their heads or the previous owner had
seriously ripped me off.
Of course I now know that this is just another one of those "quirks" of the
breed. But I still think it is an outrageously bad and totally unsafe design
by any standard.
Did a rear end collison ever creep into the designer's minds? What were they
thinking?
Coop (66 'BJ8)
> No, the straps should be around the gas tank, with nothing in between them
> and the tank. When you say "carpet" do you mean a real rug-like carpet or
the
> ribbed "armacord" that was used to line all Healey trunks? If it's
carpet,
> then your previous owner did that wrong (and you might start checking
> carefully for other similar alterations on the car.) It should be
armacord,
> and on the BN4 it should lie loosely on top of the tank, extending down
into
> the sides and between the tank and the rear shroud at the back of the car.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 20:54:31 +0000
Subject: Re: Door Removal
>If you are happy with the door alignment, you can save some installation
>time if you mark the hinge location before removing... maybe even drill
>some small (1/16-1/8") holes through the hinge and pillar before loosening,
>then pin on re-installation. If there are any shims between the hinge and
>the pillar, make sure they go back into the same location. Be sure to
>disconnect the door check before removing the door. Have an assistant
>hold the door while you work the hinge screws otherwise you may damage the
>paint. The flathead screws attach each hinge to the pillar with a large nut
>plate captured on the inside of the pillar. Make sure you use a very good
>screwdriver (#4 phillips I believe) when you remove the screws. If they
>dont budge, try an impact driver before you strip the screwdriver slot. Use
>some penterating oil. If you have to drill out the screws, you may have to
>replace or repair the nut plate.
A problem you might experience is that the screws will loosen but will
jam as you screw them out due to corrosion on the inside end of the
thread. I have found that it is sometimes better to drill the head of
the screw right out, particularly if it will not loosen or is damaged.
After removing the door carefully drill through the centre of the
remaining screw thread using ever larger drills. I have found that most
times the remains will screw inwards and will drop off when the drill is
pulled back. The heat of drilling and rotation in the correct direction
seems to help. You should be left with a good clean thread ready to take
a new screw but the remains of the old screw will still be inside. You
should be able to fish this out with a magnetic pick-up.
All the best
--
John Harper
From Tomdamit at aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 16:34:02 EST
Subject: Brochure pack for sale
Well this talk of what is and what isn't a factory rack prompted me to pull
out some old items and list them here for your consideration. To be sold as
a group at $50US.
BMC Accessories Catalog. Bi-fold brochure listing factory accessories for AH
among others. Undated but appears to be pre 1963. Good condition
Arnolt (AH Distributor for Midwest) Performance Tuning sheet 2 pages with
prices even dated May 19, 1961. Good condition
British Philatelic Bulletin with all 5 commemorative postage stamps in
folder. Mint.
Three assorted, unused AH postcards. Mint
Photocopied page (I'm throwing this one in but try to find this...) actually
two pages from May '65 of BMC competition AH parts for MkI and MkII. Good
for a photocopy.
Any questions, just email me off list.
Tom Ware
Riverside, CA
From DSRISDALL at aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 16:34:55 EST
Subject: AH calendar
Hello ,
A few monthes ago there was an email to the list re: a full color 2001
calendar offered through the Austin Healey club of USA. I sent in a check
back in the first part of Dec. (which has been cashed) but have not seen the
calendar. I do not have the adress or the original email so I cant contact
them directly. Does anyone have any info on this? I dont want to go through
the rest of the year guessing what day it is. Thanks
Don
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 14:25:23 -0800
Subject: Re: What were they thinking? was Gas tank straps
If we are getting into safety issues there isn't a telescopic steering wheel
or girders in the doors or an "A" pillar that would hold up much more than a
fly and on and on...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Coop" <coop1@dnai.com>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 1:00 PM
Subject: What were they thinking? was Gas tank straps
>
> You know, the first time I saw that shiny Armacord sitting atop my gas
tank
> with no metal plate separating it I thought that either the Austin Healey
> company was completely out of their heads or the previous owner had
> seriously ripped me off.
> Of course I now know that this is just another one of those "quirks" of
the
> breed. But I still think it is an outrageously bad and totally unsafe
design
> by any standard.
> Did a rear end collison ever creep into the designer's minds? What were
they
> thinking?
> Coop (66 'BJ8)
>
> > No, the straps should be around the gas tank, with nothing in between
them
> > and the tank. When you say "carpet" do you mean a real rug-like carpet
or
> the
> > ribbed "armacord" that was used to line all Healey trunks? If it's
> carpet,
> > then your previous owner did that wrong (and you might start checking
> > carefully for other similar alterations on the car.) It should be
> armacord,
> > and on the BN4 it should lie loosely on top of the tank, extending down
> into
> > the sides and between the tank and the rear shroud at the back of the
car.
> >
> > Cheers
> > Gary Anderson
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 16:56:49 -0600
Subject: Tank Repair - Thanks!!!
Hi Fellows
Just in the process of printing out the replies on "tank repair" to give
to Gerry Threlfall this evening if all works out. I would like to thank
Steve Byres, Bob Yule, Sam Marble, Joe Durant, Lee Mairs, Jim (AH102)
and Robert Wiley for their responses to this question - all of you have
given Gerry some interesting comments to think on. Again thanks
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 14:53:44 -0800
Subject: Re: Coils and the XR700
Len, I've had the Allison and a Lucas Sport coil for 6k miles now on my lotus,
no
problems to date, and great, hot spark......Jerry Rude 73 Europa/BJ8
Marge and/or Len Hartnett wrote:
> Listers: Has anyone using a Crane (formerly Allison) XR700 ignition system
> had excessive coil failures? I went through several coils averaging around
> 3000 miles per coil. Asking locally, I found no other such cases. I provided
> Allison and Crane with all the possible data I could measure - voltages,
> resistances, temperatures, etc., and they claim to be baffled as to a cause.
> I am curious to know if I am the only one with this problem. (NOTE: I
> installed a Pertronix about 2500 miles ago. It hasn't missed a beat - YET!)
>
> Len.
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 18:24:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Door Removal
John wrote:
> A problem you might experience is that the screws will loosen but will
> jam as you screw them out due to corrosion on the inside end of the
> thread. I have found that it is sometimes better to drill the head of
> the screw right out, particularly if it will not loosen or is damaged.
> After removing the door carefully drill through the centre of the
> remaining screw thread using ever larger drills. I have found that most
> times the remains will screw inwards and will drop off when the drill is
> pulled back. The heat of drilling and rotation in the correct direction
> seems to help. You should be left with a good clean thread ready to take
> a new screw but the remains of the old screw will still be inside. You
> should be able to fish this out with a magnetic pick-up.
Wow, sounds like a lot of blood, sweat, and tears.
I have always found that enough heat to bring the screw heads up to a dull
cherry colour, and a good fitting screwdriver bit in a socket extension with
handle, will always bring the screw out with no fuss, damage, or harm to
anything, including the screws.
The secret is: 1. enough heat, and 2. a quality, correct fitting screwdriver
bit.
Rich Chrysler
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 15:31:51 -0800
Subject: RE: AH calendar
Hi Don,
The AHCUSA website has the directors and officers email addresses listed...
http://www.healey.org/board.shtml
http://www.healey.org/officers.shtml
I'm not sure who is responsible for mailing the calendars out, but John
Spaur or Richard Gordon can direct you to the right person.
BTW, the AHCUSA 2001 Calendar is not full color, but it has some awesome
period photos. I've got mine hanging above the computer monitor.
Brad Weldon
webmaster, AHCUSA
http://healey.org/
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of DSRISDALL@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 1:35 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: AH calendar
>
>
>
> Hello ,
>
> A few monthes ago there was an email to the list re: a full color 2001
> calendar offered through the Austin Healey club of USA. I sent in a check
> back in the first part of Dec. (which has been cashed) but have
> not seen the
> calendar. I do not have the adress or the original email so I
> cant contact
> them directly. Does anyone have any info on this? I dont want to
> go through
> the rest of the year guessing what day it is. Thanks
>
> Don
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 19:30:08 -0500
Subject: Steering Rod
We all know we have a long spear sitting in front of us with a steering
wheel attached. I was wondering if anyone has ever done a safety fix on it
and if so what they did. The danger is really vivid when you look under an
empty bonnet.
regards
tom
From Tomdamit at aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 19:09:32 EST
Subject: Re: Brochure pack for sale.
It does appear these items are sold. Thanks to all.
From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 20:25:39 -0500
Subject: Re: rear hub bearings
Thanks for the info on oiling the rear bearings. Got the hub off and cleaned up
and a new seal installed. Any hints or tips on getting the bearing back in the
hub and than the whole assemby over the housing. I have the bearing in the
freezer hoping it will go into the housing a little easier than it came out.
Thanks alot.
Bill Pollock
HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
> The outer rear axle bearings are supplied oil from the differential. It is
> not necessary to pack these bearings with grease, but it would help when you
> first start driving after installing new bearings to have some grease in the
> bearings.
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif. 95205
> 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
> Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From Steve Dupus <stevsgarage at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 17:31:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Coils and the XR700
Marge and/or Len Hartnett <thehartnetts@earthlink.net> wrote:
Listers: Has anyone using a Crane (formerly Allison) XR700 ignition system
had excessive coil failures? I went through several coils averaging around
3000 miles per coil. Asking locally, I found no other such cases. I provided
Allison and Crane with all the possible data I could measure - voltages,
resistances, temperatures, etc., and they claim to be baffled as to a cause.
I am curious to know if I am the only one with this problem. (NOTE: I
installed a Pertronix about 2500 miles ago. It hasn't missed a beat - YET!)
Len.
Len,
I used the old crane ignition system for about 5 years of regular driving
with little trouble, however I now have the pertronix unit in all three of my
English cars plus a fork truck at work and the only time I had a problem with
one was when I did the old RPM drop test by unplugging ignition wires. On an
electronic ignition this should be done by grounding out the plug wires, an
open causes a voltage spike that will destroy an electronic ignition, even on a
modern car.Plus the fit and simplicity of the pertronix unit is unbeatabe.
Steve
From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 17:00:50 -0800
Subject: Re: Door Removal
Rich,
Good luck on that, especially if the hinges are aluminum!! I drilled the heads
off of mine, removed the plates from the back of the pillars, then, heated the
remains of the screws and they came out, not much fuss.
Jerry Rude
BJ8
Rich C wrote:
> John wrote:
> > A problem you might experience is that the screws will loosen but will
> > jam as you screw them out due to corrosion on the inside end of the
> > thread. I have found that it is sometimes better to drill the head of
> > the screw right out, particularly if it will not loosen or is damaged.
> > After removing the door carefully drill through the centre of the
> > remaining screw thread using ever larger drills. I have found that most
> > times the remains will screw inwards and will drop off when the drill is
> > pulled back. The heat of drilling and rotation in the correct direction
> > seems to help. You should be left with a good clean thread ready to take
> > a new screw but the remains of the old screw will still be inside. You
> > should be able to fish this out with a magnetic pick-up.
>
> Wow, sounds like a lot of blood, sweat, and tears.
> I have always found that enough heat to bring the screw heads up to a dull
> cherry colour, and a good fitting screwdriver bit in a socket extension with
> handle, will always bring the screw out with no fuss, damage, or harm to
> anything, including the screws.
> The secret is: 1. enough heat, and 2. a quality, correct fitting screwdriver
> bit.
> Rich Chrysler
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 17:29:24 -0500
Subject: Re:Richmond Spring Show
Hi,
Can anyone give me the exact date in May for the "Boulders" British Car
Show in Richmond this coming May? Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 20:40:12 EST
Subject: Re: Door Removal
I had success with removing some particularly stubborn door screws by
drilling small diameter holes (about 1/16") right down the middle of the
screws. the heads were still usable and the rusted ends were allowed to
compress as their cores were removed so they came right out. Liberal use of
penetrating oil helped.
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 1/16/01 5:36:41 PM, gdrude@pacbell.net writes:
<<
Rich,
Good luck on that, especially if the hinges are aluminum!! I drilled the
heads
off of mine, removed the plates from the back of the pillars, then, heated the
remains of the screws and they came out, not much fuss.
Jerry Rude
BJ8
Rich C wrote:
> John wrote:
> > A problem you might experience is that the screws will loosen but will
> > jam as you screw them out due to corrosion on the inside end of the
> > thread. I have found that it is sometimes better to drill the head of
> > the screw right out, particularly if it will not loosen or is damaged.
> > After removing the door carefully drill through the centre of the
> > remaining screw thread using ever larger drills. I have found that most
> > times the remains will screw inwards and will drop off when the drill is
> > pulled back. The heat of drilling and rotation in the correct direction
> > seems to help. You should be left with a good clean thread ready to take
> > a new screw but the remains of the old screw will still be inside. You
> > should be able to fish this out with a magnetic pick-up.
>
> Wow, sounds like a lot of blood, sweat, and tears.
> I have always found that enough heat to bring the screw heads up to a dull
> cherry colour, and a good fitting screwdriver bit in a socket extension with
> handle, will always bring the screw out with no fuss, damage, or harm to
> anything, including the screws.
> The secret is: 1. enough heat, and 2. a quality, correct fitting screwdriver
> bit.
> Rich Chrysler
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 20:50:44 EST
Subject: Re: Tank Repair - Thanks!!!
Ed,
If it were me, for the $350 to $400 cost of a new tank, I would not fool
around trying to repair one that is leaking. Why not put in a new one and
not have to worry about a leaky tank for another 30+ years.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 20:55:33 EST
Subject: Re: rear hub bearings
In a message dated 1/16/2001 5:16:51 PM Pacific Standard Time,
wjpollock@erols.com writes:
>
> Thanks for the info on oiling the rear bearings. Got the hub off and
> cleaned up
> and a new seal installed. Any hints or tips on getting the bearing back in
> the
> hub and than the whole assemby over the housing. I have the bearing in the
> freezer hoping it will go into the housing a little easier than it came out.
>
If you had to tap the bearing very hard to get it off, I'd suggest putting
back on a new bearing.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From PHILIP HALL <CAROLHALL at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 08:59:12 -0500
Subject: Re: AH calendar
I have also sent off a check for the calendar and haven't seen anything yet!
The sad thing is that I too haven't kept the records!
Phil Hall
DSRISDALL@aol.com wrote:
> Hello ,
>
> A few monthes ago there was an email to the list re: a full color 2001
> calendar offered through the Austin Healey club of USA. I sent in a check
> back in the first part of Dec. (which has been cashed) but have not seen the
> calendar. I do not have the adress or the original email so I cant contact
> them directly. Does anyone have any info on this? I dont want to go through
> the rest of the year guessing what day it is. Thanks
>
> Don
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 21:06:38 EST
Subject: Springthing 2001
The Bluegrass Club signed a deal yesterday to host Springthing 2001 at the
Holiday Inn North on Newton Pike in Lexington, KY.
Peter Favier, the manager of the hotel, is a Healey owner and has provided an
exceptional facility for the event. Within a day's drive of 75% of the
population of the United States, Lexington is strategically located at the
intersection of interstates 64 and 75. Lexington is in the heart of the
Thoroughbred Racehorse Country and you will experience some of the most
picturesque rally roads and the attractions of historic farms that are home
to many Derby Champions. The dates for this years event will be May 18, 19 &
20.
Springthing is an event that the Bluegrass Club has hosted for 10 years now.
Attracting Healey owners from around the region we can expect about 65 cars,
it is a three day event including a gymkhana, car show, rally, tours and
other fun events.
Mark your calendars!! Soon we will have a web site up and registration forms
available.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
Visit my Bluegrass Austin Healey Club site at bluegrassclub.com
And visit my British Sports Car Club of KY site at britishsportscarclub.com.
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 21:02:08 -0600
Subject: Re: rear hub bearings
And Joh S. wrote and I quote:
<<If you had to tap the bearing very hard to get it off, I'd suggest putting
back on a new bearing. >>
ABSOLUTLY!!!
Ed
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 21:05:13 -0600
Subject: Re: AH calendar
<<I have also sent off a check for the calendar and haven't seen anything
yet!>>
The first one of you to mention this cited "full color".
So to whom did you send check??
AHCA - wasted your money.
AHCUSA - B & W and better.
I have received both. Wife agrees with above.
Cheers..........
Ed
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 23:31:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Resurrection Continues
I'm not so sure about using the grade 8 bolts. Please correct me if I'm wrong,
but I'm pretty sure the captive nuts under the tower top plate are only grade
5. If you use a grade 8 bolt, the threads on the bolt will be much stronger
than the threads on the nut. Any accidental overtightening will jeapardize the
nut rather than the bolt... resulting in a tedius repair required on the tower.
I like the idea of using loctite on the threads, and if one does adhere strictly
to the recommended torque settings, one may get away with the mismatched
bolts... neither the bolt nor the nut will be damaged if the torque setting is
exact. So, I imagine some people may have gotten away with using grade 8 bolts
without damage....
However, I think staying with grade 5 bolts is probably the best idea, since a
properly tightened grade 5 bolt will hold quite adequately (especially if
loctite is added), and one has a better chance of preserving the nut. Of
course, religiously checking the tightness to specification is a good idea.
just my $.02
-skip-
HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
> They shoould be 45-50 ft lbs I would also recomend using new grade 8 bolts
> and using some RED loctite on the threads when install the new bolts. Also
> take a close look at the threads in the shock plates before intalling.
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif. 95205
> 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
> Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 21:06:43 -0800
Subject: Re: Resurrection Continues
I won't argue with Skip's logic, but do have a follow on question. If you
use Loctite on these or any other bolts, how do you go about tightening
them afterwards? Does the use of Loctite preclude retightening them, and
you must remove and reinstall them instead?
-------------------
At 08:31 PM 1/16/2001, you wrote:
>I'm not so sure about using the grade 8 bolts. Please correct me if I'm
>wrong,
>but I'm pretty sure the captive nuts under the tower top plate are only grade
>5. If you use a grade 8 bolt, the threads on the bolt will be much stronger
>than the threads on the nut. Any accidental overtightening will
>jeapardize the
>nut rather than the bolt... resulting in a tedius repair required on the
>tower.
>
>I like the idea of using loctite on the threads, and if one does adhere
>strictly
>to the recommended torque settings, one may get away with the mismatched
>bolts... neither the bolt nor the nut will be damaged if the torque setting is
>exact. So, I imagine some people may have gotten away with using grade 8
>bolts
>without damage....
>
>However, I think staying with grade 5 bolts is probably the best idea, since a
>properly tightened grade 5 bolt will hold quite adequately (especially if
>loctite is added), and one has a better chance of preserving the nut. Of
>course, religiously checking the tightness to specification is a good idea.
>
>just my $.02
>-skip-
>
>HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
>
> > They shoould be 45-50 ft lbs I would also recomend using new grade 8 bolts
> > and using some RED loctite on the threads when install the new bolts. Also
> > take a close look at the threads in the shock plates before intalling.
> >
> > David Nock
> > President/Service Manager
> > British Car Specialists
> > 2060 N Wilson Way
> > Stockton Calif. 95205
> > 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> > Visit our new web site at <A
> HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> > BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> > ========================================
> > Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> > ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 21:43:58 -0800
Subject: Re: Resurrection Continues
Greg,
Good question! There is a high school one 1/2 block from my house. I have
been in the doing of an engine rebuild, with the garage door open on a busy
street, and not a single high school kid has come by to watch let alone
help. There is a middle school down the street too.
John
'62 MKII BT7 needing it's wire wheels cleaned
Gary... You'll clean them for me if I can't find a kid? Right?
At 04:38 PM 1/16/01 +1000, Greg Bankin wrote:
> > Find a compulsive sports-car loving kid in the neighborhood who will clean
> > your wheels in return for rides in the car. How many of us got our start
>in
> > this hobby by hanging around the neighbor's garage on a Saturday hoping
>he'd
> > let us "help?"
> >
>
>
>Smart idea - lazy but SMART
>Now where have all those little buggers gone ??
>
>Greg Bankin
>gregbankin@primus.com.au
>Sunshine Coast
>Queensland
>Australia
>
>'58 BN4
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 22:01:52 -0800
Subject: Coils and the XR700
It would appear from the responses that the coil problem was mine and mine
alone. My thanks to all who responded.
Len.
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 23:31:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Resurrection Continues
The advantage of using a high strength bolt is that it will tend to stretch less
under a tensile load. and thus will not loosen as quickly. I don't know what
strength the captive nits are but I think they are sufficiently strong to stand
up
to the use of grade 8 bolts in shear.
Bill Lawrence
skip wrote:
> I'm not so sure about using the grade 8 bolts. Please correct me if I'm
>wrong,
> but I'm pretty sure the captive nuts under the tower top plate are only grade
> 5. If you use a grade 8 bolt, the threads on the bolt will be much stronger
> than the threads on the nut. Any accidental overtightening will jeapardize
>the
> nut rather than the bolt... resulting in a tedius repair required on the
>tower.
>
> I like the idea of using loctite on the threads, and if one does adhere
>strictly
> to the recommended torque settings, one may get away with the mismatched
> bolts... neither the bolt nor the nut will be damaged if the torque setting is
> exact. So, I imagine some people may have gotten away with using grade 8
>bolts
> without damage....
>
> However, I think staying with grade 5 bolts is probably the best idea, since a
> properly tightened grade 5 bolt will hold quite adequately (especially if
> loctite is added), and one has a better chance of preserving the nut. Of
> course, religiously checking the tightness to specification is a good idea.
>
> just my $.02
> -skip-
>
> HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
>
> > They shoould be 45-50 ft lbs I would also recomend using new grade 8 bolts
> > and using some RED loctite on the threads when install the new bolts. Also
> > take a close look at the threads in the shock plates before intalling.
> >
> > David Nock
> > President/Service Manager
> > British Car Specialists
> > 2060 N Wilson Way
> > Stockton Calif. 95205
> > 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> > Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> > BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> > ========================================
> > Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> > ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 23:05:50 -0800
Subject: Re: Resurrection Continues
Correct me if I'm wrong but are the shocks not made of a softer material
than the nuts and bolts thus requiring tightening from time to time. So
loctite will keep the nut and bolt tight but the shock may still be loose
between them....just something I've been pondering. Inquisitive minds you
know...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "skip" <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
To: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
Cc: <dhugh@mail.tscnet.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 8:31 PM
Subject: Re: Resurrection Continues
>
> I'm not so sure about using the grade 8 bolts. Please correct me if I'm
wrong,
> but I'm pretty sure the captive nuts under the tower top plate are only
grade
> 5. If you use a grade 8 bolt, the threads on the bolt will be much
stronger
> than the threads on the nut. Any accidental overtightening will
jeapardize the
> nut rather than the bolt... resulting in a tedius repair required on the
tower.
>
> I like the idea of using loctite on the threads, and if one does adhere
strictly
> to the recommended torque settings, one may get away with the mismatched
> bolts... neither the bolt nor the nut will be damaged if the torque
setting is
> exact. So, I imagine some people may have gotten away with using grade 8
bolts
> without damage....
>
> However, I think staying with grade 5 bolts is probably the best idea,
since a
> properly tightened grade 5 bolt will hold quite adequately (especially if
> loctite is added), and one has a better chance of preserving the nut. Of
> course, religiously checking the tightness to specification is a good
idea.
>
> just my $.02
> -skip-
>
> HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
>
> > They shoould be 45-50 ft lbs I would also recomend using new grade 8
bolts
> > and using some RED loctite on the threads when install the new bolts.
Also
> > take a close look at the threads in the shock plates before intalling.
> >
> > David Nock
> > President/Service Manager
> > British Car Specialists
> > 2060 N Wilson Way
> > Stockton Calif. 95205
> > 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> > Visit our new web site at <A
HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> > BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> > ========================================
> > Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> > ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 01:49:36 -0800
Subject: Re: Door Removal
When I took my doors off (they're still off ) I used a large Phillips head
screwdriver with a five sided shaft. Take an adjustable wrench to the shaft,
push the blade into the screw and lean on it and use the wrench to turn the
shaft. Worked great. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: Rich C <rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca>
To: John Harper <John@jharper.demon.co.uk>; AH102@home.com <ah102@home.com>
Cc: <RandallC2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 3:24 PM
Subject: Re: Door Removal
>
> John wrote:
> > A problem you might experience is that the screws will loosen but will
> > jam as you screw them out due to corrosion on the inside end of the
> > thread. I have found that it is sometimes better to drill the head of
> > the screw right out, particularly if it will not loosen or is damaged.
> > After removing the door carefully drill through the centre of the
> > remaining screw thread using ever larger drills. I have found that most
> > times the remains will screw inwards and will drop off when the drill is
> > pulled back. The heat of drilling and rotation in the correct direction
> > seems to help. You should be left with a good clean thread ready to take
> > a new screw but the remains of the old screw will still be inside. You
> > should be able to fish this out with a magnetic pick-up.
>
> Wow, sounds like a lot of blood, sweat, and tears.
> I have always found that enough heat to bring the screw heads up to a dull
> cherry colour, and a good fitting screwdriver bit in a socket extension
with
> handle, will always bring the screw out with no fuss, damage, or harm to
> anything, including the screws.
> The secret is: 1. enough heat, and 2. a quality, correct fitting
screwdriver
> bit.
> Rich Chrysler
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 01:51:17 -0800
Subject: Re: Steering Rod
I let my wife drive. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: tom felts <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 4:30 PM
Subject: Steering Rod
>
> We all know we have a long spear sitting in front of us with a steering
> wheel attached. I was wondering if anyone has ever done a safety fix on
it
> and if so what they did. The danger is really vivid when you look under
an
> empty bonnet.
>
> regards
> tom
From Stella67 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 05:14:21 EST
Subject: Re: Steering Rod
I am getting at this late, but when I was in England last summer I stopped by
Cape International to see what they had. They have manufactured a replacement
drive shaft with a universal joint. It was designed primarily for race cars
so the horn and turn signals aren't connected as original but even that might
be fixed to some extent. You might want to contact them about it. You can
find out some information at www.cape-international.com.
I don't own any stock in the company, know the owner or any thing else but
did find them interesting to visit, if not difficult to find.
Good luck
John
From njones at amadeus.net
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 11:55:59 +0100
Subject: 3000 Steering rod and fitting a collapsable joint.
There had been attempts to cut and fit in a 'Mollart' collasable joint to the
Healey 3000 steering rod
but the specialists did not really recommend it due to the subsequent scuttle
shake.
Cape International do offer one but it is not cheap...choice is yours.
From "Magnus Karlsson" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 12:25:30 +0100
Subject: SV: Steering Rod
I have their steering column and box in my car. I think it4s quite alright.
Before buying be sure to check that it4s now being made to the correct length.
When I bought mine it was about 30 cm too long and I had to cut it and reweld
it.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN (Country of the Swedish Bikini Team)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Stella67@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 11:14 AM
Subject: Re: Steering Rod
>
> I am getting at this late, but when I was in England last summer I stopped by
> Cape International to see what they had. They have manufactured a replacement
> drive shaft with a universal joint. It was designed primarily for race cars
> so the horn and turn signals aren't connected as original but even that might
> be fixed to some extent. You might want to contact them about it. You can
> find out some information at www.cape-international.com.
>
> I don't own any stock in the company, know the owner or any thing else but
> did find them interesting to visit, if not difficult to find.
>
> Good luck
>
> John
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 12:38:42 +0000
Subject: Re: Steering Rod
A bit of useless information. London Taxis were originally built with a
steering box very similar to that fitted to big Healeys after the BN1.
Safety regulations led to these being modified with a collapsible centre
section added in the column. So the idea of adding protection between
the front of the vehicle and the drivers chest is not new.
All the best
>I am getting at this late, but when I was in England last summer I stopped by
>Cape International to see what they had. They have manufactured a replacement
>drive shaft with a universal joint. It was designed primarily for race cars
>so the horn and turn signals aren't connected as original but even that might
>be fixed to some extent. You might want to contact them about it. You can
>find out some information at www.cape-international.com.
>
>I don't own any stock in the company, know the owner or any thing else but
>did find them interesting to visit, if not difficult to find.
>
>Good luck
>
>John
--
John Harper
From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 09:41:28 -0500
Subject: Re: rear hub bearings
Thanks for the replies. What you and Ed are implying is that the bearing should
go into the housing and over the stub with some ease. I had to use a wheel
puller to get the unit off the stub. With the puller there was a fair amount of
force used to get the unit off. One of my concerns now is that I do not want
to mess up the threads on the stub. If I put the bearing on the stub now it
will start but to get it into position I am going to have to tap it into place
with hammer and piece of wood.. These are the original bearings and seals on a
"59.
Bill Pollock
JustBrits wrote:
> And Joh S. wrote and I quote:
>
> <<If you had to tap the bearing very hard to get it off, I'd suggest putting
> back on a new bearing. >>
>
> ABSOLUTLY!!!
>
> Ed
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 10:30:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Tank Repair - Thanks!!!
Boy, do I agree with John at this one. I face the same problem last spring.
It was an easy job - even with a severely damaged back (mine). The choice
is a no-brainer, IMHO.
---
Lee Mairs
'62 Mk II Tri-carb
---
Programming today is a race between software engineers striving to build
bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the Universe trying to produce
bigger and better idiots. So far, the Universe is winning.
--Rich Cook
----- Original Message -----
From: <JSoderling@aol.com>
To: <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: Tank Repair - Thanks!!!
>
> Ed,
> If it were me, for the $350 to $400 cost of a new tank, I would not fool
> around trying to repair one that is leaking. Why not put in a new one and
> not have to worry about a leaky tank for another 30+ years.
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 07:27:20 -0800
Subject: Re: Nuts & Bolts
Hello Listers,
FWIW--Nuts are a lot stronger than bolts. If you use a high strength nut
with the same bolt the force is not distributed on the threads evenly and
they strip one at a time. Normal engineering practice is to use softer nuts.
I read this in a fascinating book on aviation fasteners left me by my
father, a one-time airframe mechanic.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 10:51:02 -0500
Subject: Re: rear hub bearings
Bill,
The rear bearing should be a press fit into the hub, and a "tap" fit onto
the rear axle casing. Use Locktite 640 if it is loose. The hub/bearing
assembly should be seated using a ring of some kind, in order to apply equal
pressure on all sides at once. I use a BJ8 caliper piston with a
little machined out of the inside.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Pollock <wjpollock@erols.com>
To: JustBrits <justbrits@mediaone.net>
Cc: <JSoderling@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 9:41 AM
Subject: Re: rear hub bearings
>
> Thanks for the replies. What you and Ed are implying is that the bearing
should
> go into the housing and over the stub with some ease. I had to use a
wheel
> puller to get the unit off the stub. With the puller there was a fair
amount of
> force used to get the unit off. One of my concerns now is that I do not
want
> to mess up the threads on the stub. If I put the bearing on the stub now
it
> will start but to get it into position I am going to have to tap it into
place
> with hammer and piece of wood.. These are the original bearings and seals
on a
> "59.
>
> Bill Pollock
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 11:01:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Resurrection Continues
Interesting point. Bruce Phillips at Healey Surgeon also recommended Grade
8 bolts to me after he found a bolt stripped and loose on the forward
starboard tower. Luckily, he was able to re-tap and get a Grade 8 bolt to
hold.
---
Lee Mairs
'62 Mk II Tri-carb
---
Democracy, which is a charming form of government, full of variety and
disorder, and dispensing a sort of equality to equals and unequals alike.
--Plato, The Republic. Book VIII. 558
----- Original Message -----
From: skip <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
To: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
Cc: <dhugh@mail.tscnet.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 11:31 PM
Subject: Re: Resurrection Continues
>
> I'm not so sure about using the grade 8 bolts. Please correct me if I'm
wrong,
> but I'm pretty sure the captive nuts under the tower top plate are only
grade
> 5
From Browning David <BrowningD at tce.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 11:11:00 -0500
Subject: RE: Tank Repair - Thanks!!!
Moss has the steel and aluminum tanks on sale right now. I'm thinking about
the alum. Are these good replacements?
David B.
'55 BN1
-----Original Message-----
From: Lee S. Mairs [mailto:lmairs@cox.rr.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 10:30 AM
To: Healey
Subject: Re: Tank Repair - Thanks!!!
Boy, do I agree with John at this one. I face the same problem last spring.
It was an easy job - even with a severely damaged back (mine). The choice
is a no-brainer, IMHO.
---
Lee Mairs
'62 Mk II Tri-carb
---
Programming today is a race between software engineers striving to build
bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the Universe trying to produce
bigger and better idiots. So far, the Universe is winning.
--Rich Cook
----- Original Message -----
From: <JSoderling@aol.com>
To: <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: Tank Repair - Thanks!!!
>
> Ed,
> If it were me, for the $350 to $400 cost of a new tank, I would not fool
> around trying to repair one that is leaking. Why not put in a new one and
> not have to worry about a leaky tank for another 30+ years.
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 11:12:42 EST
Subject: Re: Steering Rod
In a message dated 1/16/01 7:07:28 PM Eastern Standard Time,
tfelts@prodigy.net writes:
> I was wondering if anyone has ever done a safety fix on it
> and if so what they did.
You may want to look at the "Safety Steering Column" offered by CAPEWORKS for
about 850 pounds Sterling. Their web page is http://www.cape-international.com
and you will find it under the heading Updates Online-Issue 1 page 2.
They have some other very interesting items too; Spot/Fog Lamp Brackets
(Should you want to delete your front bumper), Aluminum Dashboard-BJ8, Getrag
5 Speed Gearbox Conversion, Rear Disc Brake Conversion, etc.
I haven't checked for Concours Standard Deductions on any of these items, so
I'll leave that up to you to decide what you choose.
You can spend quite some time just looking in their "wish list."
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 08:35:25 -0800
Subject: Re: Resurrection Continue
Correct me if I'm wrong but are the shocks not made of a softer material
than the nuts and bolts thus requiring tightening from time to time. So
loctite will keep the nut and bolt tight but the shock may still be loose
between them....just something I've been pondering. Inquisitive minds you
know...Neil
I had several of the nuts loose on my BN7 so I replaced the nots with a
piece of 1/2" steel plate. I very carefully opened the inside edge of the
nut plate on the top of the tower. I used a cutting disk on a small air
grinder. I then carefully bent up the edge to allow clearance to remove the
old nuts qnd allow the plate to slip inside. I pre drilled the plate with
four holes properly spaced for the shock. The plate is then slipped in and
the edge is carefully returned to its original postion and rewelded. The
plate has a small amount room to move within the original holes. This gives
some ability to aling the front end if needed. You can now tighten the
bolts with no concern for breaking loose the nuts.
Bob BN7 & BT7 MK II's
----- Original Message -----
From: "skip" <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
To: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
Cc: <dhugh@mail.tscnet.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 8:31 PM
Subject: Re: Resurrection Continues
>
> I'm not so sure about using the grade 8 bolts. Please correct me if I'm
wrong,
> but I'm pretty sure the captive nuts under the tower top plate are only
grade
> 5. If you use a grade 8 bolt, the threads on the bolt will be much
stronger
> than the threads on the nut. Any accidental overtightening will
jeapardize the
> nut rather than the bolt... resulting in a tedius repair required on the
tower.
>
> I like the idea of using loctite on the threads, and if one does adhere
strictly
> to the recommended torque settings, one may get away with the mismatched
> bolts... neither the bolt nor the nut will be damaged if the torque
setting is
> exact. So, I imagine some people may have gotten away with using grade 8
bolts
> without damage....
>
> However, I think staying with grade 5 bolts is probably the best idea,
since a
> properly tightened grade 5 bolt will hold quite adequately (especially if
> loctite is added), and one has a better chance of preserving the nut. Of
> course, religiously checking the tightness to specification is a good
idea.
>
> just my $.02
> -skip-
>
> HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
>
> > They shoould be 45-50 ft lbs I would also recomend using new grade 8
bolts
> > and using some RED loctite on the threads when install the new bolts.
Also
> > take a close look at the threads in the shock plates before intalling.
> >
> > David Nock
> > President/Service Manager
> > British Car Specialists
> > 2060 N Wilson Way
> > Stockton Calif. 95205
> > 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> > Visit our new web site at <A
HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> > BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> > ========================================
> > Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> > ++++++++++
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 09:27:04 -0800
Subject: RE: Steering Rod
I've looked long and hard at the steering rod in my BT7 and have
considered making it collapsible, I've gone as far as making some drawings
of various designs. The best solution I could come up with was a system
of concentric sliding tubes using the original shaft. I spent a couple of
hours one day wandering through Pick-n-Pull (a chain of self service
wrecking yards) looking at all the various methods different manufacturers
have used to make their columns. It was an informative afternoon.
Pick-n-Pull has a good selection of older cars and trucks with steering
boxes (not steering racks) . Most use a sliding tube assembly that has some
sort of device to stop rotation, a pin that rides in a slot or splines or a
flat on one side. Others have a perforated outer tube that is designed to
fail under pressure. I don's see that it would be that hard to cut the
original Healey Tube, shorten both ends and install a larger diameter tube
to connect them. A tight fit with light clamp pressure and pins/slots to
stop rotation would be simple to fabricate. It would also collapse
(telescope) under pressure and therefore be safer that the original. The
original trafficator could still be used.
Another simple method would be to take on section of the tube and
drill a bunch of holes in it. To keep it sealed up you could just wrap that
section with tape, etc. I have no idea what size/how many hole to drill
that would allow the shaft to collapse yet still keep it rigid enough be
functional, but it would seem to work.
These are just Ideas I have and if I use one or the other I will let
the list know how it works out.
Standing next to the car with the shroud off and engine out (my
situation right now) You can really see the danger involved with that long
shaft pointed directly at your heart. I work hard at my cardiovascular
health and it would be a bummer if all my care ended up with a trafficator
lever embedded in it. When it's running I drive my Healey a lot, often in
commute traffic in this rather crowded town. Someone who only uses their
car occasionally would probably be as concerned, but, man I love driving
mine and I worry a bit. JP
John Pagel
Data Manager
Tel: (916) 265-4230
mailto:john.pagel@iMotors.com
iMotors
You've never bought a used car like this.
-----Original Message-----
From: John Harper [mailto:John@jharper.demon.co.uk]
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 4:39 AM
To: Stella67@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Steering Rod
A bit of useless information. London Taxis were originally built with a
steering box very similar to that fitted to big Healeys after the BN1.
Safety regulations led to these being modified with a collapsible centre
section added in the column. So the idea of adding protection between
the front of the vehicle and the drivers chest is not new.
All the best
>I am getting at this late, but when I was in England last summer I stopped
by
>Cape International to see what they had. They have manufactured a
replacement
>drive shaft with a universal joint. It was designed primarily for race cars
>so the horn and turn signals aren't connected as original but even that
might
>be fixed to some extent. You might want to contact them about it. You can
>find out some information at www.cape-international.com.
>
>I don't own any stock in the company, know the owner or any thing else but
>did find them interesting to visit, if not difficult to find.
>
>Good luck
>
>John
--
John Harper
From "Alan Schultz" <aschultz at uwsa.edu>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 11:45:27 -0600
Subject: Re: Resurrection Continue
Bob,
It sounds like a good solution. The only question I have is how will you be able
to replace the shock at some future date since the plate is loose? Remove one
bolt, insert threaded rod, remove other three bolts, lift the shock enough to
reinstall a bolt to hold the plate?
Al
67 BJ8
Robert Wiley wrote:
> Correct me if I'm wrong but are the shocks not made of a softer material
> than the nuts and bolts thus requiring tightening from time to time. So
> loctite will keep the nut and bolt tight but the shock may still be loose
> between them....just something I've been pondering. Inquisitive minds you
> know...Neil
> I had several of the nuts loose on my BN7 so I replaced the nots with a
> piece of 1/2" steel plate. I very carefully opened the inside edge of the
> nut plate on the top of the tower. I used a cutting disk on a small air
> grinder. I then carefully bent up the edge to allow clearance to remove the
> old nuts qnd allow the plate to slip inside. I pre drilled the plate with
> four holes properly spaced for the shock. The plate is then slipped in and
> the edge is carefully returned to its original postion and rewelded. The
> plate has a small amount room to move within the original holes. This gives
> some ability to aling the front end if needed. You can now tighten the
> bolts with no concern for breaking loose the nuts.
>
> Bob BN7 & BT7 MK II's
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "skip" <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
> To: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
> Cc: <dhugh@mail.tscnet.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 8:31 PM
> Subject: Re: Resurrection Continues
>
> >
> > I'm not so sure about using the grade 8 bolts. Please correct me if I'm
> wrong,
> > but I'm pretty sure the captive nuts under the tower top plate are only
> grade
> > 5. If you use a grade 8 bolt, the threads on the bolt will be much
> stronger
> > than the threads on the nut. Any accidental overtightening will
> jeapardize the
> > nut rather than the bolt... resulting in a tedius repair required on the
> tower.
> >
> > I like the idea of using loctite on the threads, and if one does adhere
> strictly
> > to the recommended torque settings, one may get away with the mismatched
> > bolts... neither the bolt nor the nut will be damaged if the torque
> setting is
> > exact. So, I imagine some people may have gotten away with using grade 8
> bolts
> > without damage....
> >
> > However, I think staying with grade 5 bolts is probably the best idea,
> since a
> > properly tightened grade 5 bolt will hold quite adequately (especially if
> > loctite is added), and one has a better chance of preserving the nut. Of
> > course, religiously checking the tightness to specification is a good
> idea.
> >
> > just my $.02
> > -skip-
> >
> > HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > > They shoould be 45-50 ft lbs I would also recomend using new grade 8
> bolts
> > > and using some RED loctite on the threads when install the new bolts.
> Also
> > > take a close look at the threads in the shock plates before intalling.
> > >
> > > David Nock
> > > President/Service Manager
> > > British Car Specialists
> > > 2060 N Wilson Way
> > > Stockton Calif. 95205
> > > 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> > > Visit our new web site at <A
> HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> > > BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> > > ========================================
> > > Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> > > ++++++++++
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
aschultz.vcf]
From L W <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 12:53:00 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Resurrection Continues
Hi all:
Here's a tip Bruce Phillips of Healey Surgeons gave me. Put a grade 8 flat
wash under the shock bolts to keep the heads from digging into the soft shock.
lance
54 bn1
------Original Message------
From: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: skip <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
Sent: January 17, 2001 6:31:30 AM GMT
Subject: Re: Resurrection Continues
The advantage of using a high strength bolt is that it will tend to stretch less
under a tensile load. and thus will not loosen as quickly. I don't know what
strength the captive nits are but I think they are sufficiently strong to stand
up
to the use of grade 8 bolts in shear.
Bill Lawrence
skip wrote:
> I'm not so sure about using the grade 8 bolts. Please correct me if I'm
>wrong,
> but I'm pretty sure the captive nuts under the tower top plate are only grade
> 5. If you use a grade 8 bolt, the threads on the bolt will be much stronger
> than the threads on the nut. Any accidental overtightening will jeapardize
>the
> nut rather than the bolt... resulting in a tedius repair required on the
>tower.
>
> I like the idea of using loctite on the threads, and if one does adhere
>strictly
> to the recommended torque settings, one may get away with the mismatched
> bolts... neither the bolt nor the nut will be damaged if the torque setting is
> exact. So, I imagine some people may have gotten away with using grade 8
>bolts
> without damage....
>
> However, I think staying with grade 5 bolts is probably the best idea, since a
> properly tightened grade 5 bolt will hold quite adequately (especially if
> loctite is added), and one has a better chance of preserving the nut. Of
> course, religiously checking the tightness to specification is a good idea.
>
> just my $.02
> -skip-
>
> HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
>
> > They shoould be 45-50 ft lbs I would also recomend using new grade 8 bolts
> > and using some RED loctite on the threads when install the new bolts. Also
> > take a close look at the threads in the shock plates before intalling.
> >
> > David Nock
> > President/Service Manager
> > British Car Specialists
> > 2060 N Wilson Way
> > Stockton Calif. 95205
> > 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> > Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> > BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> > ========================================
> > Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> > ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 10:03:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: 2001 AHCUSA Calendar
Hi Doug,
The two email messages below appeared on the "Healeys List" and apparently
these gentlemen have not yet received their 2001 Calendars. Would you
please check on this? One is Phil Hall and the other is Don (last name not
provided, but from his email address of <DSRISDALL> maybe you can devine
it).
I'm assuming that they are non-members and therefore would have sent payment
directly to you as a result of the announcment that I made on the Healeys
List some weeks ago. Thanks.
Listers,
The 2001 Austin-Healey Calendar, published by the Austin-Healey Club USA,
features 12 original, period photos of Don Morley and the big Healeys that
he drove for the BMC Team on the European Road Rally circuit. We borrowed
these from Morley himself, and some are never-before-published. The
captions were written by John Sprinzel of Speedwell Sprite fame. At just $5
(postage paid in the USA and Canada) it's quite a bargain! Copies are still
available from:
Doug Auburg
8002 NE Hwy 99
Ste B PMB 424
Vancouver WA 98665-8813
douga@healey.org
(360) 694-7769
You can see the photos from the previous calendar at:
http://www.healey.org/calendar2000.shtml
Also please see:
http://www.healey.org/calendar.shtml
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
President, Austin-Healey Club USA
http://www.healey.org
-----------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 16:34:55 EST
From: DSRISDALL@aol.com
Subject: AH calendar
Hello ,
A few months ago there was an email to the list re: a full color 2001
calendar offered through the Austin Healey club of USA. I sent in a check
back in the first part of December (which has been cashed) but have not seen
the calendar. I do not have the address or the original email so I can't
contact them directly. Does anyone have any info on this? I don't want to
go through
the rest of the year guessing what day it is. Thanks.
Don
----------------------------------
DonDate: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 08:59:12 -0500
From: PHILIP HALL <CAROLHALL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: AH calendar
I have also sent off a check for the calendar and haven't seen anything yet!
The sad thing is that I too haven't kept the records!
Phil Hall
----------------------------------
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 13:47:09 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Door Removal
Ordinarily I suppose I'd have just let it slide, but it's 5F here in Minnesota
and I'm a bit bored (too cold in the garage to play with my Healey).
Where do you get/what is a FIVE-SIDED SHAFTED Phillips screwdriver? Is there
some sort of wrench, adjustable, openend,box, etc. that is NOT designed to
grasp parallel faces? - (and a pentagon (5 faces) sure doesn't have any
parallel faces.)
just asking
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> When I took my doors off (they're still off ) I used a large Phillips head
> screwdriver with a five sided shaft. Take an adjustable wrench to the shaft,
> push the blade into the screw and lean on it and use the wrench to turn the
> shaft. Worked great. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Rich C <rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca>
> To: John Harper <John@jharper.demon.co.uk>; AH102@home.com <ah102@home.com>
> Cc: <RandallC2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 3:24 PM
> Subject: Re: Door Removal
>
>
> >
> > John wrote:
> > > A problem you might experience is that the screws will loosen but will
> > > jam as you screw them out due to corrosion on the inside end of the
> > > thread. I have found that it is sometimes better to drill the head of
> > > the screw right out, particularly if it will not loosen or is damaged.
> > > After removing the door carefully drill through the centre of the
> > > remaining screw thread using ever larger drills. I have found that most
> > > times the remains will screw inwards and will drop off when the drill is
> > > pulled back. The heat of drilling and rotation in the correct direction
> > > seems to help. You should be left with a good clean thread ready to take
> > > a new screw but the remains of the old screw will still be inside. You
> > > should be able to fish this out with a magnetic pick-up.
> >
> > Wow, sounds like a lot of blood, sweat, and tears.
> > I have always found that enough heat to bring the screw heads up to a dull
> > cherry colour, and a good fitting screwdriver bit in a socket extension
> with
> > handle, will always bring the screw out with no fuss, damage, or harm to
> > anything, including the screws.
> > The secret is: 1. enough heat, and 2. a quality, correct fitting
> screwdriver
> > bit.
> > Rich Chrysler
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 11:55:37 +0000
Subject: Healey for sale
Joe,
You might get more wide spread interest and provide a bit of value
information for all listers if you mentioned the price. I hope it's not a
'state' secret.
Ron Somers BN1 (in the works)
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 13:55:03 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Steering Rod
John
I've looked at their website in the past and was frustrated by the
lack of a catalog or Price List. For example, they claim to have all
of the rubber bits for factory hardtops but don't list them with part
numbers and advise costs - let alone quoting prices for hardtops
themselves.
Now you say they have a jointed steering column - any details, does
the banjo wheel and trafficator fit , does it fit to the OEM steering
box, etc - and how much$$$
Can you shed any light?
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> I am getting at this late, but when I was in England last summer I stopped by
> Cape International to see what they had. They have manufactured a replacement
> drive shaft with a universal joint. It was designed primarily for race cars
> so the horn and turn signals aren't connected as original but even that might
> be fixed to some extent. You might want to contact them about it. You can
> find out some information at www.cape-international.com.
>
> I don't own any stock in the company, know the owner or any thing else but
> did find them interesting to visit, if not difficult to find.
>
> Good luck
>
> John
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 14:02:29 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Steering Rod
John
I don't think it's useless information at all. I don't believe London Taxis
aren't all that different now from then (whenever "then" was), so weren't these
collapsable columns installed by the Austin factory as OE? If so, who made
them and aren't some of those taxis still on the street and so spares should be
available?
Thanks in advance
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> A bit of useless information. London Taxis were originally built with a
> steering box very similar to that fitted to big Healeys after the BN1.
> Safety regulations led to these being modified with a collapsible centre
> section added in the column. So the idea of adding protection between
> the front of the vehicle and the drivers chest is not new.
>
>
> All the best
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 15:19:03 -0600
Subject: the 100
I was chatting with a friend today and it dawned on me that I hadn't driven
the car in a while... broke down and took it out for a quick trip..... and
as always it did exactly what it was supposed to do..... Put a HUGE smile on
my face.... how can you drive a car like this and not love every minute of
the wind in your face.. yep the screen is down.... matter of fact... why
would you put it up? don't need it for the top... it's not in the car....
never has been long as I have owned it.... Never will be..
anyway.... Thanks Yet again DMH for a wonderful little ride.
Keith
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 17:43:51 EST
Subject: Re: the 100
In a message dated 1/17/01 1:24:31 PM, kturk@ala.net writes:
<< yep the screen is down.... matter of fact... why
would you put it up? don't need it for the top... it's not in the car....
never has been long as I have owned it.... >>
Wearing your WWII-issue aviator goggles to keep the wind out of your eyes,
I'm sure. But what do you do to keep the bugs out of your teeth?
Cheers
Gar
From Don Paye <dpaye at crocker.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 17:55:49 -0500
Subject: Preproduction 100 For Sale
Here is the ultimate Austin Helaey to arrive at the fiftieth nniversay meet
in 2002.
FOR SALE: A.H. 100, Serial #133234, one of the first four preduction 100's
built in Warwick by Roger Menadue and shipped to the US for DMH's personal
use while touring the country and setting up dealers. Completely hand built
with aluminum body and many hand made one of a kind parts. All body work
completed with every attempt to be correct without "over restoring".
Complete documentation including personal letters from Geoffrey Healey and
pictures of #2 provided by the family. This is the same car that was
pictured in front of the Austin of England office showing DMH and Sir
Leonard Lord shaking hands. Car is located in Massachusetts. Serious
inquiries only. Best offer in excess of $79,000. Reward for lead resulting
in final sale. Pictures and copies of letters, etc. available for $5/set.I
can be reached by email or would prefer a phone call at 413-625-2322 (week
days) 413-625-6568 (home). Mailing address, Don Paye, Box 391, Greeenfield,
MA 01302
Interested parties in Australia, I can disassemble this car to the necessary
level to meet customs savings and crate components for an additional charge.
HAPPY TO DISCUSS THIS PIECE OF HISTORY WITH INTERESTED PARTIES. NO TIRE
KICKERS PLEASE.
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 15:45:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Coast-to-coast in a Healey
Some weeks ago Editor Gary and I had an off-line discussion on the topic of
coast-to-coast drives in Austin-Healeys. I've done it five times that I can
recall off the top of my head, the last of which was in a 100, with the top
down the whole way, in the month of February.
At any rate, Gary contended that such long-distance drives were not so
uncommon and that many people had done this. My belief is that it's pretty
rare.
Please help us settle this by responding with your personal testimonial of a
coast-to-coast drive (in the United States or Canada) in an Austin-Healey.
To qualify the trip must begin in a state or province that borders the
Pacific Ocean and end in a state or province that borders the Atlantic
Ocean, or vice versa.
Please, no "I knew a guy who did this..." stories, and no
less-than-bondafide coast-to-coast trips. Thanks.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2
2 x AN5 Just bought another 12/27/00 - Yeah, baby!
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 15:53:37 -0800
Subject: Re: the 100
drive only in winter :-)
-Roland
On Wed, 17 Jan 2001 17:43:51 EST, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
:: But what do you do to keep the bugs out of your teeth?
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 18:18:40 -0600
Subject: Re: Coast-to-coast in a Healey
Reid.... does 11 countries in Europe in THREE days....Count?
did it in a Box Sprite.... for under 500 bucks in 93.... taught my son
something about mechanicing along the way... this ain't bad stuff.... trip
went like this.... SPELL CHECKER AIN'T working so bare with me...
Junk Yard... home.... found the motor stuck it in....
Fulda Germany to Holland... to Belguin.... Luxomburg... France...
Austria.... Liectenstien.... Switzerland.... Italy... Poland... Chex repub.
back to Fulda.... on a Boat brought it home... restored it... and he wrecked
it as a High School car...
Great stuff... in the spirt of Healey's its a trip that will be with us a
life time....
Keith
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <AHCUSA@excite.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 5:45 PM
Subject: Coast-to-coast in a Healey
>
> Some weeks ago Editor Gary and I had an off-line discussion on the topic
of
> coast-to-coast drives in Austin-Healeys. I've done it five times that I
can
> recall off the top of my head, the last of which was in a 100, with the
top
> down the whole way, in the month of February.
>
> At any rate, Gary contended that such long-distance drives were not so
> uncommon and that many people had done this. My belief is that it's
pretty
> rare.
>
> Please help us settle this by responding with your personal testimonial of
a
> coast-to-coast drive (in the United States or Canada) in an Austin-Healey.
> To qualify the trip must begin in a state or province that borders the
> Pacific Ocean and end in a state or province that borders the Atlantic
> Ocean, or vice versa.
>
> Please, no "I knew a guy who did this..." stories, and no
> less-than-bondafide coast-to-coast trips. Thanks.
>
> Cheers,
> Reid Trummel
> Tampa, Florida
> 2 x BN2
> 2 x AN5 Just bought another 12/27/00 - Yeah, baby!
> http://www.healey.org
> http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Send a cool gift with your E-Card
> http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From KingPinion at aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 20:04:07 EST
Subject: re: Austin Healey typeface, font
I'm working on a club site and wanted to know if anyone can tell me the name of
the font used in the Austin Healey logo. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 17:44:11 -0800 (PST)
Subject: A few AH parts for sale
Hi all,
I received a request to help find buyers for a few AH parts as follows. If
interested please respond directly to the seller. Thanks.
Cheers,
Reid
----- Original Message -----
> From: academystprods@earthlink.net
> Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 10:53:18 -0800
> To: reidt@healey.org
> Subject: AH parts
>
> I have a few items that one of your members may be interested in
purchasing.
3 original (very good condition) AH hubcaps with Flying A.
1 original (vg condition) nose plate with AH in script.
1 rear deck 100-6 lighting chrome plate.
Jim Nichols 818 766-6133, Los Angeles.
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 17:53:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: re: Austin Healey typeface, font
On Wed, 17 Jan 2001 20:04:07 EST, KingPinion@aol.com wrote:
>> I'm working on a club site and wanted to know if anyone can tell me the
name of the font used in the Austin Healey logo. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks. <<
I don't think that it's a "font." Rather, I believe that it is custom
artwork. You'd have to scan it, or you could simply borrow our scan at:
http://www.healey.org
By the way, which club's website are you working on? Please consider a link
to ours.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2
2 x AN5 Just bought another 12/27 - Yeah, baby!
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 18:15:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 2001 AHCUSA Calendar
I received my calendar a few weeks ago. Thanks to a
last minute request, the calendar was produced without
holes in the pictures. The photos are now great for
mounting. You won't be disappointed! These are
"never before seen" period photos. Once again Reid
has done a great job and for 5$ how can you go wrong.
How about an early edition of the 2002 calendar?
Thanks again,
Dean
BN7
Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 20:14:05 -0600
Subject: Re: Austin Healey typeface, font
<<which club's website are you working on? >>
At this rate, I am gonna go in the calender business.
Customers don't get AHCUSA B & W one;
Customers do get a crappy AHCA "...beautiful full color" one;
AHCUSA customers get one with NO HOLES to hang by.
Geeesh. Starting to re-think the Dues/Membership thingys.
Ed
PS: Thank G*d, British Car mag and lots of MG mags come thru good.
From jbpate at attglobal.net
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 21:32:44 -0500
Subject: Door keys
My two door keys are different. I now have the tumbler out of one of
the handles. Can it be modified to the same key pattern as the other
door or do I need to order two tumblers of the same pattern. Barry Pate
BJ8
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 18:35:40 -0800
Subject: Re: the 100
Keith does'nt have any teeth,
his teeth are like mine,
they are like stars,
they come out at night.
Ha !!
Kirk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@cts.com>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 3:53 PM
Subject: Re: the 100
>
> drive only in winter :-)
>
> -Roland
>
> On Wed, 17 Jan 2001 17:43:51 EST, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> :: But what do you do to keep the bugs out of your teeth?
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 21:44:46 EST
Subject: Re: BMW tow vehicle?
Myles
The X5 4.4 L specifies a maximum tow capacity of 6000 pounds. The Land
Rover Discovery Seried II shows 5500 (7700 in low range) and Mercedes ML 430
shows 5000. The X 5 has the "steptronic" trans that lets you go from
Automatic to Clutchless Manual Transmission easily. I would think that would
be helpful in some towing situations.
I bought a 3.0 L X5 last September and though I haven't done any towing
with it and all I can say is "wow:" - to say I love it is an understatement!
Chedk it out
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
X5
Lumina
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 21:45:56 EST
Subject: Re: rear hub bearings
In a message dated 1/17/01 9:53:58 AM Central Standard Time,
MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net writes:
<< I use a BJ8 caliper piston with a
little machined out of the inside. >>
Me too, it works great. Nice and square too.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From MossHale at aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 21:48:51 EST
Subject: Fwd: Steering Rod
Return-path: <MossHale@aol.com>
From: MossHale@aol.com
Full-name: MossHale
Message-ID: <94.ee50f4d.2797b0d4@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 21:37:08 EST
Subject: Re: Steering Rod
To: tfelts@prodigy.net
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 117
In 1960 BN7 during a rally in France , endeavoring to avoid a car crosswise
in the road I steered left into the grass along the roadway and with a sigh
of relief just knew the tree dead ahead would be avoided as I sensed rapid
slowing from fairly high speed. Well, it wasn't. I hit dead center, that is
the bumper over riders were evenly mated and would have touched had the tree
allowed. The steering wheel looked much like a figure 8, my chest had a fair
bruise and my forehead has scars from the windshield. That was before seat
belts. This doesn't answer the question but I feel does say much for the
rigidity of the steering column. The navigator got a nasty cut from the top
latch bolt from looking to the right at the other car.
Drive safe, drive fast
Hale
59 BN7
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 22:15:58 EST
Subject: Conical reflector paper inserts - ultimate concours ?
[Unable to display image]
If this goes through, I'll be suprised, I'm probably violating some list
temporal prime directive or something! but here goes!
Perhaps pasted in above is a picture of pieces of paper I found inside the
conical rear reflectors from my '60 BT7. Has anyone seen these before?
If I put these back in, will I get "bonus"concours points? Seriously, I was
kind of amazed they held up this long!
thanks,
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!)
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc. </HTML>
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 19:17:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Austin Healey typeface, font
On Wed, 17 Jan 2001 20:14:05 -0600, JustBrits wrote:
>> At this rate, I am gonna go in the calender business.
AHCUSA customers get one with NO HOLES to hang by. <<
Hey Ed,
You're a handy guy. Just send me a self-addressed, stamped envelope and
I'll send you 12 holes that you can install yourself. Just be sure to let
me know if you want SAE, metric and Whitworth holes. No charge!
Cheers,
Reid
Generous Guy
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 21:43:17 -0600
Subject: Re: the 100
Looky here.... We down here know that we invented the ToothBrush in the
State of Alabama..... otherwise it would be know as a TEETH brush....
K
----- Original Message -----
From: "kirk kvam" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@cts.com>; <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 8:35 PM
Subject: Re: the 100
>
> Keith does'nt have any teeth,
> his teeth are like mine,
> they are like stars,
> they come out at night.
>
> Ha !!
>
> Kirk
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@cts.com>
> To: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 3:53 PM
> Subject: Re: the 100
>
>
> >
> > drive only in winter :-)
> >
> > -Roland
> >
> > On Wed, 17 Jan 2001 17:43:51 EST, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > :: But what do you do to keep the bugs out of your teeth?
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 19:46:52 -0800
Subject: Re: the 100
Keith, that's funny.
Kirk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
To: "kirk kvam" <62BT7@prodigy.net>; "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@cts.com>;
<Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 7:43 PM
Subject: Re: the 100
> Looky here.... We down here know that we invented the ToothBrush in the
> State of Alabama..... otherwise it would be know as a TEETH brush....
>
> K
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "kirk kvam" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
> To: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@cts.com>; <Editorgary@aol.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 8:35 PM
> Subject: Re: the 100
>
>
> >
> > Keith does'nt have any teeth,
> > his teeth are like mine,
> > they are like stars,
> > they come out at night.
> >
> > Ha !!
> >
> > Kirk
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@cts.com>
> > To: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> > Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 3:53 PM
> > Subject: Re: the 100
> >
> >
> > >
> > > drive only in winter :-)
> > >
> > > -Roland
> > >
> > > On Wed, 17 Jan 2001 17:43:51 EST, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> > >
> > > :: But what do you do to keep the bugs out of your teeth?
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 22:53:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering Rod
>They have manufactured a replacement
> drive shaft with a universal joint. It was designed primarily for race
cars
> so the horn and turn signals aren't connected as original
The horn and turn signals are not connected to the drive shaft on either of
my cars! Guess I have some work to do! :)
Keith Pennell
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 23:09:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Door keys
Barry,
I would say it can be modified. On many occasions I have had to
repair/rekey locks on drawers in my lab. I found that it is not a difficult
task if you have the tumblers. I would suggest you take the tumblers from
the lock you like and get matching ones from a locksmith.
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 9:32 PM
Subject: Door keys
>
> My two door keys are different. I now have the tumbler out of one of
> the handles. Can it be modified to the same key pattern as the other
> door or do I need to order two tumblers of the same pattern. Barry Pate
> BJ8
From busyrider at springmail.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 23:41:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Preproduction 100 For Sale
Don,
How does this car differ from the production cars?
Fred C.
On Wed, 17 Jan 2001 17:55:49 -0500 Don Paye <dpaye@crocker.com> wrote:
Here is the ultimate Austin Helaey to arrive at the fiftieth nniversay meet
in 2002.
FOR SALE: A.H. 100, Serial #133234, one of the first four preduction 100's
built in Warwick by Roger Menadue and shipped to the US for DMH's personal
use while touring the country and setting up dealers. Completely hand built
with aluminum body and many hand made one of a kind parts. All body work
completed with every attempt to be correct without "over restoring".
Complete documentation including personal letters from Geoffrey Healey and
pictures of #2 provided by the family. This is the same car that was
pictured in front of the Austin of England office showing DMH and Sir
Leonard Lord shaking hands. Car is located in Massachusetts. Serious
inquiries only. Best offer in excess of $79,000. Reward for lead resulting
in final sale. Pictures and copies of letters, etc. available for $5/set.I
can be reached by email or would prefer a phone call at 413-625-2322 (week
days) 413-625-6568 (home). Mailing address, Don Paye, Box 391, Greeenfield,
MA 01302
Interested parties in Australia, I can disassemble this car to the necessary
level to meet customs savings and crate components for an additional charge.
HAPPY TO DISCUSS THIS PIECE OF HISTORY WITH INTERESTED PARTIES. NO TIRE
KICKERS PLEASE.
From "Joe Durant" <jdurant at stlnet.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 23:22:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Austin Healey typeface, font
Excellent Solution!!! Damn near fell off my chair! (no seat belt!)
Joe Durant
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <AHCUSA@excite.com>
To: "JustBrits" <justbrits@mediaone.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 9:17 PM
Subject: Re: Austin Healey typeface, font
>
> On Wed, 17 Jan 2001 20:14:05 -0600, JustBrits wrote:
>
>
> >> At this rate, I am gonna go in the calender business.
>
> AHCUSA customers get one with NO HOLES to hang by. <<
>
> Hey Ed,
>
> You're a handy guy. Just send me a self-addressed, stamped envelope and
> I'll send you 12 holes that you can install yourself. Just be sure to let
> me know if you want SAE, metric and Whitworth holes. No charge!
>
> Cheers,
> Reid
> Generous Guy
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Send a cool gift with your E-Card
> http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From Biloselhir at aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 08:23:58 EST
Subject: '59 BN 4 Speedometer
Being new to the Healey experience is causing me to ask a lot of questions
that I know are simple things to y'all who have been at this a long time. My
latest question is about the speedometer. Since the car had sat up for over
20 years I am hoping it just needs some "break in" time and lubrication? It
does not register anywhere near the correct speed and changes when put in
overdrive. Can someone give me the steps I should take to help this? What
to look for to get at the problems? Any help would be appreciated.
Bill Percival
Greenville, SC
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 13:09:46 +0000
Subject: Re: Steering Rod
Dick
Actually recent London Taxis are quite different from the FX4 type that
I was referring to. Leyland or who ever it was at the time sold the
Austin Taxi business to a firm then called Carbodies. I believe that
this has changed again but I have lost track. As BMC type units such as
engines, gearboxes, rear axles etc. became unavailable other units were
fitted many being Japanese.
However getting back to my point. The early FX4 had a steering box made
by Cam Gears which was quite similar to that fitted to the BN2. Changes
such as fitting the improved needle roller peg were applied to both but
somewhere towards the time that the 3000 finished (I do not have a date)
the Taxi steering box was modified again. In simple terms the column and
box were separated and mounted as two isolated items. Between the two
sections a Hooke type flexible coupling was installed. The interesting
thing about this was that it was bent in the middle by something like 20
degrees. I assume that what was supposed to happen during an impact was
that this bend would increase and even let the shaft double up. This
would allow about 10" of box rear movement before the impact was
transferred to the column.
I do not know if a retrospective modification was possible. I doubt it
because the new mountings would have to be added to the bodywork and
these would have to meet a safety standard. However you no doubt realise
that I am just guessing here.
All the best
>I don't think it's useless information at all. I don't believe London Taxis
>aren't all that different now from then (whenever "then" was), so weren't
>these
>collapsable columns installed by the Austin factory as OE? If so, who made
>them
>and aren't some of those taxis still on the street and so spares should be
>available?
>
--
John Harper
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 10:08:14 EST
Subject: Re: Conical reflector paper inserts - ultimate concours ?
In a message dated 01/17/2001 8:22:57 PM Mountain Standard Time,
MOWOGMAN@aol.com writes:
<<
Perhaps pasted in above is a picture of pieces of paper I found inside the
conical rear reflectors from my '60 BT7. Has anyone seen these before?
If I put these back in, will I get "bonus"concours points? Seriously, I
was
kind of amazed they held up this long!
>>
I believe the piece of paper being referred to is a light cream in color with
Green lettering. It has green lettering (all caps) that says:
One side --
Wax is used to prevent deterioration and may show white on rubber it may
be removed with a soft cloth
Reverse Side --
The maximum eficiency is obtained when face of reflex is fertical and facing
direct to the rear
This paper was present in the Reflex reflectors on 100s and I believe the
conical reflectors on 100-six and early 3000s.
Roger
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 10:51:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Austin Healey Type face
I'm pretty sure it's not a type face, but I have made a vector art
version in Illustrator that is very accurate,
and if you contact me off list, I can send you a copy.
Stephen Hutchings
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 11:38:56 EST
Subject: Re: '59 BN 4 Speedometer
In a message dated 1/18/01 5:27:00 AM, Biloselhir@aol.com writes:
<< Being new to the Healey experience is causing me to ask a lot of questions
that I know are simple things to y'all who have been at this a long time. My
latest question is about the speedometer. Since the car had sat up for over
20 years I am hoping it just needs some "break in" time and lubrication? It
does not register anywhere near the correct speed and changes when put in
overdrive. Can someone give me the steps I should take to help this? What
to look for to get at the problems? Any help would be appreciated.
Bill Percival
Greenville, SC >>
There could be several problems causing this problem.
1. Check the speedo cable to see if it is routed correctly and turns smothly.
2. Take a small screw driver or the end of the cable and see if the speedo
turn easy and smooth.
3. Do not try lubricating the inside of the speedo !!!!!!!!!
4. There is a rev number on the face of the speedo ( 1000 , 1275 , 1325 ,
975) one of these would be the revs per mile that the cable will make. The
measure out 52.8 feet and drive the car over that distance and count the revs
you now have. You can no tell how many revs per mile. If the sount is off
then you have either wrong size tires or wrong rear axle ratio.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 12:23:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Hundred Registry / was BJ8 Registry, etc.
Rich: Was there ever an answer to this question? If so, I missed it.
Who is the current caretaker or is the list presently inactive (an
orphan)?
Three and a half months without a reply since your note sounds like
the registry is dead.
Ed A
-----Original Message-----
From: RL Chrysler <lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 6:41 PM
Subject: Hundred Registry / was BJ8 Registry, etc.
>
>Who is presently taking care of the Hundred Registry?
>I have quite a bit of ser. no. info that should be documented,
including
>cars presently existing, and those that have most definetly "passed
on".
>Rich Chrysler
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 12:22:38 EST
Subject: Re: Hundred Registry / was BJ8 Registry, etc.
The only person whom I ever heard of handling the 100 Registry is Bill Wood,
PO Box 448, Egremont, MA 01258, (413) 528-3919
Rudy Streng
100-Six Registry
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 12:56:53 EST
Subject: Re: Hundred Registry / was BJ8 Registry, etc.
In a message dated 1/18/01 12:27:46 PM Eastern Standard Time,
CAWS52803@aol.com writes:
<< The only person whom I ever heard of handling the 100 Registry is Bill
Wood,
PO Box 448, Egremont, MA 01258, (413) 528-3919
Rudy Streng
100-Six Registry
>>
That is the 100 M/LeMans registry.
The address for the 100 Registry is: www.jharper.demon.co.uk.100reg1.htm
("1" is a one in this font).
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1L222333M
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 10:15:43 -0800
Subject: Re: Coast-to-coast in a Healey
Bought new BN7 in Paris, France in 1960, drove it 3 years in Europe,
Before discharge from US Army, Army shipped it to Brooklyn Army Terminal
(NY). got discharged, went to get car, not there, no idea where it was.
Flew to Oregon. Three months later, got letter from Army, when are you
going to pick up car? Went back to Brooklyn, got BN7 and headed West in
late Winter. No problem till Wyoming. Hit blizzard, snow blowing in
through side curtains, map in front of radiator to keep engine warm.
Wyoming Highway Patrol pulls me over. Recommends going no further due to
snow on road. Big orange moving van blows by, blowing fresh snow off road.
I tuck in behind him, and draft him across Wyoming. Arrived in Corvallis,
OR without further problems. Whole trip took four days. Drove very long
hours. French wife (along for the ride) realized for the first time how
big the US really was.
John Snyder
'60 BT7
'61 BN7 MK2
'62 BT7 MK2
----------
> From: Reid Trummel <AHCUSA@excite.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Coast-to-coast in a Healey
> Date: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 3:45 PM
>
>
> Some weeks ago Editor Gary and I had an off-line discussion on the topic
of
> coast-to-coast drives in Austin-Healeys. I've done it five times that I
can
> recall off the top of my head, the last of which was in a 100, with the
top
> down the whole way, in the month of February.
>
> At any rate, Gary contended that such long-distance drives were not so
> uncommon and that many people had done this. My belief is that it's
pretty
> rare.
>
> Please help us settle this by responding with your personal testimonial
of a
> coast-to-coast drive (in the United States or Canada) in an
Austin-Healey.
> To qualify the trip must begin in a state or province that borders the
> Pacific Ocean and end in a state or province that borders the Atlantic
> Ocean, or vice versa.
>
> Please, no "I knew a guy who did this..." stories, and no
> less-than-bondafide coast-to-coast trips. Thanks.
>
> Cheers,
> Reid Trummel
> Tampa, Florida
> 2 x BN2
> 2 x AN5 Just bought another 12/27/00 - Yeah, baby!
> http://www.healey.org
> http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Send a cool gift with your E-Card
> http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 18:47:47 -0000
Subject: Re: Coast-to-coast in a Healey
Listers, my website has been updated to include a section on Second Hand
Spares. These are mainly Austin Healey items but frequently other items are
unearthed. If there is anything you require that is not on the list contact
me as there is a very good change I will have it.
Regards
David
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 14:23:03 EST
Subject: Fwd: Hundred Registry / was BJ8 Registry, etc.
<< In a message dated 1/18/01 10:41:58 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
<< << The only person whom I ever heard of handling the 100 Registry is Bill
Wood,
PO Box 448, Egremont, MA 01258, (413) 528-3919
Rudy Streng
100-Six Registry
>>
That is the 100 M/LeMans registry. >>
Michael
No, I believe that Bill Meade runs the 100M/Lemans registry. Bill Wood runs
the registry here in the states and John Harper runs the registry for the
rest of the Austin Healey world, or this is the best that I've been able to
figure out. Obviously there appear to be two 100 registries and it's beyond
my pay grade to tell anyone which or if either is the official one. I
solved this by registering my car with both, since I don't know if Bill and
John share or exchange information.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
Return-path: <CNAArndt@aol.com>
From: CNAArndt@aol.com
Full-name: CNAArndt
Message-ID: <6c.6faa01a.27989ba8@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 14:19:04 EST
Subject: Re: Hundred Registry / was BJ8 Registry, etc.
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 130
In a message dated 1/18/01 10:41:58 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
<< << The only person whom I ever heard of handling the 100 Registry is Bill
Wood,
PO Box 448, Egremont, MA 01258, (413) 528-3919
Rudy Streng
100-Six Registry
>>
That is the 100 M/LeMans registry. >>
Michael
No, I believe that Bill Meade runs the 100M/Lemans registry. Bill Wood runs
the registry here in the states and John Harper runs the registry for the
rest of the Austin Healey world, or this is the best that I've been able to
figure out. Obviously there appear to be two 100 registries and it's beyond
my pay grade to tell anyone which or if either is the official one. I
solved this by registering my car with both, since I don't know if Bill and
John share or exchange information.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 15:20:58 EST
Subject: Re: Hundred Registry / was BJ8 Registry, etc.
In a message dated 1/18/01 1:41:58 PM Eastern Standard Time, Awgertoo@aol.com
writes:
<< The only person whom I ever heard of handling the 100 Registry is Bill
Wood,
PO Box 448, Egremont, MA 01258, (413) 528-3919
Rudy Streng
100-Six Registry
>>
That is the 100 M/LeMans registry.
The address for the 100 Registry is: www.jharper.demon.co.uk.100reg1.htm
("1" is a one in this font).
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1L222333M
>>
Whoops! Sorry Rudy--you are 100% correct. The address I gave, however, is
for the British 100 registry. I have been unable to reach Wood regarding the
American 100 registry. Some say he no longer is keeping it up (the registry,
that is....)
Michael
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 15:14:20 -0600
Subject: Re: Coast-to-coast in a Healey
hi john-
belated 41 years later congratulations !! i've done it from the middle (dallas
) both east and west 5 times but never coast to coast.
jhappy healeying,
jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Reid Trummel" <AHCUSA@excite.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Coast-to-coast in a Healey
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 10:15:43 -0800
Bought new BN7 in Paris, France in 1960, drove it 3 years in Europe,
Before discharge from US Army, Army shipped it to Brooklyn Army Terminal
(NY). got discharged, went to get car, not there, no idea where it was.
Flew to Oregon. Three months later, got letter from Army, when are you
going to pick up car? Went back to Brooklyn, got BN7 and headed West in
late Winter. No problem till Wyoming. Hit blizzard, snow blowing in
through side curtains, map in front of radiator to keep engine warm.
Wyoming Highway Patrol pulls me over. Recommends going no further due to
snow on road. Big orange moving van blows by, blowing fresh snow off road.
I tuck in behind him, and draft him across Wyoming. Arrived in Corvallis,
OR without further problems. Whole trip took four days. Drove very long
hours. French wife (along for the ride) realized for the first time how
big the US really was.
John Snyder
'60 BT7
'61 BN7 MK2
'62 BT7 MK2
----------
> From: Reid Trummel <AHCUSA@excite.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Coast-to-coast in a Healey
> Date: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 3:45 PM
>
>
> Some weeks ago Editor Gary and I had an off-line discussion on the topic
of
> coast-to-coast drives in Austin-Healeys. I've done it five times that I
can
> recall off the top of my head, the last of which was in a 100, with the
top
> down the whole way, in the month of February.
>
> At any rate, Gary contended that such long-distance drives were not so
> uncommon and that many people had done this. My belief is that it's
pretty
> rare.
>
> Please help us settle this by responding with your personal testimonial
of a
> coast-to-coast drive (in the United States or Canada) in an
Austin-Healey.
> To qualify the trip must begin in a state or province that borders the
> Pacific Ocean and end in a state or province that borders the Atlantic
> Ocean, or vice versa.
>
> Please, no "I knew a guy who did this..." stories, and no
> less-than-bondafide coast-to-coast trips. Thanks.
>
> Cheers,
> Reid Trummel
> Tampa, Florida
> 2 x BN2
> 2 x AN5 Just bought another 12/27/00 - Yeah, baby!
> http://www.healey.org
> http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Send a cool gift with your E-Card
> http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 15:22:45 -0600
Subject: Re: '59 BN 4 Speedometer
one of the primary causes of this condition is the tire size probably on your
healey. the most common size tire usually found on healeys is the 165x15
radial which is not near as tall as the original 590x15 dunlop roadspeed. of
course, there could be other mechanical problems due to age and/or smith's.
----- Original Message -----
From: Biloselhir@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: '59 BN 4 Speedometer
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 08:23:58 EST
Being new to the Healey experience is causing me to ask a lot of questions
that I know are simple things to y'all who have been at this a long time. My
latest question is about the speedometer. Since the car had sat up for over
20 years I am hoping it just needs some "break in" time and lubrication? It
does not register anywhere near the correct speed and changes when put in
overdrive. Can someone give me the steps I should take to help this? What
to look for to get at the problems? Any help would be appreciated.
Bill Percival
Greenville, SC
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 15:50:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Austin Healey typeface, font
Seems to me I read somewhere that the Austin-Healey script is a version of
Gerry Coker's handwriting when he designed the nosebadge for the 100.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: KingPinion@aol.com <KingPinion@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 8:26 PM
Subject: re: Austin Healey typeface, font
>
>I'm working on a club site and wanted to know if anyone can tell me the
name of the font used in the Austin Healey logo. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 17:30:22 -0500
Subject: IT RUNS
My fully rebuilt engine started today with no hesitation, and it sounds
wonderful. It's so good to have a real pro do great work.
tom
From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 17:21:51 -0500
Subject: Re: rear hub bearings
Thanks to everyone who offered help on my rear hubs and bearings-seals.
Bill Pollock
Mr. Finespanner wrote:
> Bill,
> The rear bearing should be a press fit into the hub, and a "tap" fit onto
> the rear axle casing. Use Locktite 640 if it is loose. The hub/bearing
> assembly should be seated using a ring of some kind, in order to apply equal
> pressure on all sides at once. I use a BJ8 caliper piston with a
> little machined out of the inside.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bill Pollock <wjpollock@erols.com>
> To: JustBrits <justbrits@mediaone.net>
> Cc: <JSoderling@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 9:41 AM
> Subject: Re: rear hub bearings
>
> >
> > Thanks for the replies. What you and Ed are implying is that the bearing
> should
> > go into the housing and over the stub with some ease. I had to use a
> wheel
> > puller to get the unit off the stub. With the puller there was a fair
> amount of
> > force used to get the unit off. One of my concerns now is that I do not
> want
> > to mess up the threads on the stub. If I put the bearing on the stub now
> it
> > will start but to get it into position I am going to have to tap it into
> place
> > with hammer and piece of wood.. These are the original bearings and seals
> on a
> > "59.
> >
> > Bill Pollock
From "Jae Lee" <jlee at cogentlight.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 14:17:26 -0800
Subject: RE: Hundred Registry / was BJ8 Registry, etc.
to all:
bill woods information is:
Bill Wood
PO Box 448
Egremont,
Massachusetts 01258
healeybill@worldnet.att.net
jae lee
bn1
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Awgertoo@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 12:21 PM
To: Awgertoo@aol.com; CAWS52803@aol.com; je.adams@worldnet.att.net;
lchrysl@fhs.csu.mcmaster.ca; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Hundred Registry / was BJ8 Registry, etc.
In a message dated 1/18/01 1:41:58 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Awgertoo@aol.com
writes:
<< The only person whom I ever heard of handling the 100 Registry is Bill
Wood,
PO Box 448, Egremont, MA 01258, (413) 528-3919
Rudy Streng
100-Six Registry
>>
That is the 100 M/LeMans registry.
The address for the 100 Registry is: www.jharper.demon.co.uk.100reg1.htm
("1" is a one in this font).
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1L222333M
>>
Whoops! Sorry Rudy--you are 100% correct. The address I gave, however, is
for the British 100 registry. I have been unable to reach Wood regarding
the
American 100 registry. Some say he no longer is keeping it up (the
registry,
that is....)
Michael
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 16:50:33 -0600
Subject: Re: Door keys
Hi Barry,
If you are holding just the tumbler assembly, and can see the little
brass 'tumblers,' insert the key you want to use and then file down the ones
that stick up too high or down too low. A proper key will make the lock
assembly smooth on both sides. This is what a locksmith will do anyway. Hope
this helps.
Peter (BMC Restorations)
----- Original Message -----
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 8:32 PM
Subject: Door keys
>
> My two door keys are different. I now have the tumbler out of one of
> the handles. Can it be modified to the same key pattern as the other
> door or do I need to order two tumblers of the same pattern. Barry Pate
> BJ8
From Don Paye <dpaye at crocker.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 17:56:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Preproduction 100 For Sale
At 11:41 PM 1/17/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Don,
>How does this car differ from the production cars?
>Fred C.
>
>
>On Wed, 17 Jan 2001 17:55:49 -0500 Don Paye <dpaye@crocker.com> wrote:
>
>
>Here is the ultimate Austin Helaey to arrive at the fiftieth nniversay meet
>in 2002.
>FOR SALE: A.H. 100, Serial #133234, one of the first four preduction 100's
>built in Warwick by Roger Menadue and shipped to the US for DMH's personal
>use while touring the country and setting up dealers. Completely hand built
>with aluminum body and many hand made one of a kind parts. All body work
>completed with every attempt to be correct without "over restoring".
>Complete documentation including personal letters from Geoffrey Healey and
>pictures of #2 provided by the family. This is the same car that was
>pictured in front of the Austin of England office showing DMH and Sir
>Leonard Lord shaking hands. Car is located in Massachusetts. Serious
>inquiries only. Best offer in excess of $79,000. Reward for lead resulting
>in final sale. Pictures and copies of letters, etc. available for $5/set.I
>can be reached by email or would prefer a phone call at 413-625-2322 (week
>days) 413-625-6568 (home). Mailing address, Don Paye, Box 391, Greeenfield,
>MA 01302
>
>Interested parties in Australia, I can disassemble this car to the necessary
>level to meet customs savings and crate components for an additional charge.
>
>HAPPY TO DISCUSS THIS PIECE OF HISTORY WITH INTERESTED PARTIES. NO TIRE
>KICKERS PLEASE.
>
Fred C. et al:
Unless you are interested in a long list of details, you might as well
"trash" now and avoid the rush! I'll cover a few of the highlights as
briefly as possible. All of this information and more is included in the
packet I mentioned in my original message.
CHASSIS/SUPERSTRUCTURE: The main frame and o;utriggers are much the same.
Floor boards are of different design and I have duplicated the originals.
There are many differences in the structure of the firewall and door hinge
supports. many small pieces of angle sheet metal and gussets were used. No
vertical supports for the fro;nt shroud were used and all of the shileds
directing air to the radiator were not used. there are many signs of
alterations using a hammer to make clearance are evident and I have left
these detaisl in tack. Rear shock mounts had been crudely constructed and
moved. Clearance for the top in down positon was added by hammering in small
sections of the wheel wells which were later formed in the molds used for
production cars.
BODY: In general the whole car is slightly more bulbous with fatter fenders.
The fenders are made in two pieces riveted together at the bottom, underside
of each where the fenders join the inner rocker or sill plate. There are two
lovers used for demisters rather than the production type slots. Also there
is an added piece oa aluminum with a rubber strip just behind the windscreen
seal. No molded ridge in the top of the shroud. The trunk,hood and door
latches are all different from prodction with differences in the formation
of the rear shroud.
TRIM: The grill is peaked with the surround being extruded chrome plated
brass with the vertical bars being held by lead inside the surround. The 100
flash, windscreen supports for down position, windscreen posts all being
hand made and very crudely finished on the parts of these pieces which do
not appear on the outside of the car. The cockpit surrounds are again
extruded brass with sliding "T" bolts being used to fasten them to the doors
and shrouds. The hood (top) has a large window and different stiching. The
original was good enough for a pattern to have a hand made replacement
constructed. The choke control was mo;unted in a special mount just to the
left of the instrument cluster. Wire wheels were chrome and have the flatter
center hub design.
MECHANICALS: Most all of the drive train is the same as production. A few
clips and hangers vary from production.
As I said this is just a few of the main items of difference.
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 17:12:40 -0600
Subject: More on rear hubs
Hi All,
One commonly overlooked item is the weep hole on the rear axle housing
that lets any oil that bypasses the seal leak down the outside of the brake
backing plate rather than contaminating the brakes (no substitute for
replacing a damaged seal though). Additionally, when you remove the brake
drum, and want to minimize the oil that drips past the flange gasket and
o-ring, quickly put a nut (7/16 fine thread) on the stud opposite the screw
that holds the axle in (you will probably need a spacer too). This will hold
pressure on the o-ring and help prevent seepage. Speaking of the o-ring,
when renewing the o-ring and gasket. cut the gasket back to allow the o-ring
to contact the metal surface of the axle and not the paper gasket. I use
'high tack' on the gasket with good results. If you want to get really
crazy. drill a couple more holes for additional screws to hold the axle in.
Hope this helps.
Peter (BMC Restorations)
From "Mike Goode" <mgoode at netjets.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 16:22:48 -0700
Subject: BJ8 Miss
Thanks to everyone for the help on diagnosing my miss at 2500 rpm. I
was ready to rebuild the carb, but after several suggestions
concerning the ignition system, I replaced the distributor cap, plugs
and wires first. Just got back from "ops checking" it and it runs like
a charm...no hint of the miss. It now revs like I remember.
I did get a rotor from Moss and although it looked smaller than the
original one, I put it in anyway. Bad idea...it is about a eighth of
an inch taller and rubbed against the top of the cap, eventually
driving the carbon connector into the cap resulting in a fast death to
zero rpm. I popped the carbon connector back down, put on the other
rotor and it fired right up. Now to try and find the right rotor.
Again thanks for all the suggestions. I sent the master rebuild kit
back to Moss saving $160 and lots of hours.
Mike Goode
BJ8, Scottsdale
From "John Bumpus" <jbumpus at home.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 16:15:34 -0800
Subject: New products
Go to www. 84to96.net/kaleco/ for some great new products Bumpy
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 19:54:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Hundred Registry / was BJ8 Registry, etc.
I wrote once to Mr. Wood with some information and a question, enclosing a
self-addressed, stamped envelope, but never received a reply.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: Awgertoo@aol.com <Awgertoo@aol.com>; CAWS52803@aol.com
<CAWS52803@aol.com>; je.adams@worldnet.att.net <je.adams@worldnet.att.net>;
lchrysl@fhs.csu.mcmaster.ca <lchrysl@fhs.csu.mcmaster.ca>;
healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, January 18, 2001 5:06 PM
Subject: Re: Hundred Registry / was BJ8 Registry, etc.
>
>In a message dated 1/18/01 1:41:58 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Awgertoo@aol.com
>writes:
>
><< The only person whom I ever heard of handling the 100 Registry is Bill
> Wood,
> PO Box 448, Egremont, MA 01258, (413) 528-3919
> Rudy Streng
> 100-Six Registry
> >>
> That is the 100 M/LeMans registry.
> The address for the 100 Registry is: www.jharper.demon.co.uk.100reg1.htm
> ("1" is a one in this font).
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1L222333M
> >>
>Whoops! Sorry Rudy--you are 100% correct. The address I gave, however, is
>for the British 100 registry. I have been unable to reach Wood regarding
the
>American 100 registry. Some say he no longer is keeping it up (the
registry,
>that is....)
>
>Michael
From YourName <bjate at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 17:04:46 -0800
Subject: Garage Cleaning
My buddy Smitty is cleaning out his shop of good stuff that he will not use in
his lifetime. Don't call me....call him at 805-495-1488. He has two frames,
100 and 100-6 and a bugeye bonnet that rates a 7 on a scale of 10. He wants
$500 for each of the above. He also has a BJ7 that is a good project car tho
there is no engine or trans. Otherwise all the pieces are there and as
assembled by the factory. I believe he wants 10K for it so call him for the
specifics. Stuff is located in 1000 Oaks, CA
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 18:18:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Door keys
Which brings up the question: How do you file the short pins longer?
Bill Lawrence
Peter Brauen wrote:
> Hi Barry,
> If you are holding just the tumbler assembly, and can see the little
> brass 'tumblers,' insert the key you want to use and then file down the ones
> that stick up too high or down too low. A proper key will make the lock
> assembly smooth on both sides. This is what a locksmith will do anyway. Hope
> this helps.
> Peter (BMC Restorations)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
> To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 8:32 PM
> Subject: Door keys
>
> >
> > My two door keys are different. I now have the tumbler out of one of
> > the handles. Can it be modified to the same key pattern as the other
> > door or do I need to order two tumblers of the same pattern. Barry Pate
> > BJ8
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 20:35:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Hundred Registry / was BJ8 Registry, etc.
You aren't alone, Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, January 18, 2001 7:58 PM
Subject: Re: Hundred Registry / was BJ8 Registry, etc.
>
>I wrote once to Mr. Wood with some information and a question,
enclosing a
>self-addressed, stamped envelope, but never received a reply.
>
>Steve Byers
>HBJ8L/36666
>BJ8 Registry
>Havelock, NC USA
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Awgertoo@aol.com <Awgertoo@aol.com>
>To: Awgertoo@aol.com <Awgertoo@aol.com>; CAWS52803@aol.com
><CAWS52803@aol.com>; je.adams@worldnet.att.net
<je.adams@worldnet.att.net>;
>lchrysl@fhs.csu.mcmaster.ca <lchrysl@fhs.csu.mcmaster.ca>;
>healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Date: Thursday, January 18, 2001 5:06 PM
>Subject: Re: Hundred Registry / was BJ8 Registry, etc.
>
>
>>
>>In a message dated 1/18/01 1:41:58 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>Awgertoo@aol.com
>>writes:
>>
>><< The only person whom I ever heard of handling the 100 Registry
is Bill
>> Wood,
>> PO Box 448, Egremont, MA 01258, (413) 528-3919
>> Rudy Streng
>> 100-Six Registry
>> >>
>> That is the 100 M/LeMans registry.
>> The address for the 100 Registry is:
www.jharper.demon.co.uk.100reg1.htm
>> ("1" is a one in this font).
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1L222333M
>> >>
>>Whoops! Sorry Rudy--you are 100% correct. The address I gave,
however, is
>>for the British 100 registry. I have been unable to reach Wood
regarding
>the
>>American 100 registry. Some say he no longer is keeping it up (the
>registry,
>>that is....)
>>
>>Michael
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 20:29:44 EST
Subject: Re: Steering Rod (capeworks)
I found their site and the listed Steering box conversion with the price
clearly marked in Pounds Sterling. (Not including VAT) It was on one of the
"newsletter" pages. no real organisation...
I filled out the customer contact form and they say a catalog is in the mail
to me. they also state on their site that all of the replacement parts they
carry are numbered same as the original BMC catalog, so one with the right
books could just ask for the original part number.
A fellow named Mark in the sales department was quick to respond to my
questions in a long email. He even followed up after a couple of days to make
sure I got the answers I needed.
About the hardtop bits, I bought mine from Bill Bolton. Other bits like the
works style vent for the hardtop, front lamp brackets and the corrisponding
bumperette kits for the rear drew me to their site.
I'm hoping that they will be a good supplier...
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 1/17/01 10:58:06 AM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<<
John
I've looked at their website in the past and was frustrated by the lack of a
catalog or Price List. For example, they claim to have all of the rubber
bits for factory hardtops but don't list them with part numbers and advise
costs - let alone quoting prices for hardtops themselves.
Now you say they have a jointed steering column - any details, does the
banjo wheel and trafficator fit , does it fit to the OEM steering box, etc -
and how much$$$
Can you shed any light?
DickB >>
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 17:32:32 -0800
Subject: Re: Garage Cleaning
FYI - That's "Thousand Oaks", the beautiful distant suburb of Los Angeles . . .
.
L.A., the city with electricity! The rest of us are in the dark.
Terry Blubaugh
YourName wrote:
> My buddy Smitty is cleaning out his shop of good stuff that he will not use in
> his lifetime. Don't call me....call him at 805-495-1488. He has two frames,
> 100 and 100-6 and a bugeye bonnet that rates a 7 on a scale of 10. He wants
> $500 for each of the above. He also has a BJ7 that is a good project car tho
> there is no engine or trans. Otherwise all the pieces are there and as
> assembled by the factory. I believe he wants 10K for it so call him for the
> specifics. Stuff is located in 1000 Oaks, CA
From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 20:36:05 EST
Subject: Re: Hardtop Dilemma
Hi, the J-hooks for the two seaters were straight and the ones for the four
seaters are bent. I have both of them in stock. Cheers, Bill
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 19:45:55 -0600
Subject: Re: Garage Cleaning
YourName wrote:
> My buddy Smitty is cleaning out his shop of good stuff that he will not use in
> his lifetime. Don't call me....call him at 805-495-1488. He has two frames,
> 100 and 100-6 and a bugeye bonnet that rates a 7 on a scale of 10. He wants
> $500 for each of the above. He also has a BJ7 that is a good project car tho
> there is no engine or trans. Otherwise all the pieces are there and as
> assembled by the factory. I believe he wants 10K for it so call him for the
> specifics. Stuff is located in 1000 Oaks, CA
Esther finally making him clean out World HQ?
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 19:47:59 -0600
Subject: Re: More on rear hubs
for those of you pulling rear hubs for the first time, be aware you will need a
puller. your healey comes already so equipped. remove an axle shaft, reverse
it and use the axle shaft flange as your puller. 3 nuts in a triangular
pattern and your'e ready to pull by tightening the nuts. as the hub approaches
the end of the stub axle, you'll need to use a large socket as a spacer between
the stub axle and the flange.
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Brauen <pbrauen@telepak.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: More on rear hubs
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 17:12:40 -0600
Hi All,
One commonly overlooked item is the weep hole on the rear axle housing
that lets any oil that bypasses the seal leak down the outside of the brake
backing plate rather than contaminating the brakes (no substitute for
replacing a damaged seal though). Additionally, when you remove the brake
drum, and want to minimize the oil that drips past the flange gasket and
o-ring, quickly put a nut (7/16 fine thread) on the stud opposite the screw
that holds the axle in (you will probably need a spacer too). This will hold
pressure on the o-ring and help prevent seepage. Speaking of the o-ring,
when renewing the o-ring and gasket. cut the gasket back to allow the o-ring
to contact the metal surface of the axle and not the paper gasket. I use
'high tack' on the gasket with good results. If you want to get really
crazy. drill a couple more holes for additional screws to hold the axle in.
Hope this helps.
Peter (BMC Restorations)
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 22:23:51 -0800
Subject: Re: New products
John: I don't know about the Extra Strength Muffler Bearings. $175 a pair
(I have a BJ8) sounds a little high. I think I'll try JC Whitney to see if
they have them cheaper. The Heavy Duty Clutch Belt at $29.95 seems
reasonable, however. Now if I could just remember how to get to it to
measure it .....;-). Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Bumpus" <jbumpus@home.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 4:15 PM
Subject: New products
>
> Go to www. 84to96.net/kaleco/ for some great new products Bumpy
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 13:44:12 +1000
Subject: Re: Preproduction 100 For Sale
> of each where the fenders join the inner rocker or sill plate. There are
two
> lovers used for demisters rather than the production type slots. Also
there
I have always found lovers create the misting on the windows.
Greg
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 07:24:07 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Door keys
Well Bill
Now you know why you're struggling to complete the restoration of your BN1 in
your garage and Peter is making a living doing the same sort of thing.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Which brings up the question: How do you file the short pins longer?
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> Peter Brauen wrote:
>
> > Hi Barry,
> > If you are holding just the tumbler assembly, and can see the little
> > brass 'tumblers,' insert the key you want to use and then file down the ones
> > that stick up too high or down too low. A proper key will make the lock
> > assembly smooth on both sides. This is what a locksmith will do anyway. Hope
> > this helps.
> > Peter (BMC Restorations)
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
> > To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 8:32 PM
> > Subject: Door keys
> >
> > >
> > > My two door keys are different. I now have the tumbler out of one of
> > > the handles. Can it be modified to the same key pattern as the other
> > > door or do I need to order two tumblers of the same pattern. Barry Pate
> > > BJ8
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Robert Johnson" <bandrj at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 08:22:49 -0800
Subject: Re: Door keys
Actually, I've watched a locksmith a couple of times and the guy that I
watched didn't file anything, he simply replaced pins to get the proper
lengths.
Bob Johnson
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Peter Brauen" <pbrauen@telepak.net>
Cc: <jbpate@attglobal.net>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 5:18 PM
Subject: Re: Door keys
>
> Which brings up the question: How do you file the short pins longer?
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> Peter Brauen wrote:
>
> > Hi Barry,
> > If you are holding just the tumbler assembly, and can see the little
> > brass 'tumblers,' insert the key you want to use and then file down the
ones
> > that stick up too high or down too low. A proper key will make the lock
> > assembly smooth on both sides. This is what a locksmith will do anyway.
Hope
> > this helps.
> > Peter (BMC Restorations)
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
> > To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 8:32 PM
> > Subject: Door keys
> >
> > >
> > > My two door keys are different. I now have the tumbler out of one of
> > > the handles. Can it be modified to the same key pattern as the other
> > > door or do I need to order two tumblers of the same pattern. Barry
Pate
> > > BJ8
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 08:34:55 EST
Subject: Re: Hundred Registry
Steve,
I am sending this on to Edie Anderson, National AHCA Secretary as she handles
the registry organization. Hopefully if Bill Wood has resigned, we still can
obtain his records.
Rudy Streng
Edie,
There has been a bit of emails on the healey list about who is doing the 100
Registry. Do you have that info? I had passed on Bill Wood's name as the
contact, but I am not sure he is still handling the records. Any help would
be appreciated.
Rudy
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 10:26:25 -0500
Subject: Follow up to Healey Type face
Hello to everyone who replied to my posting about the Healey logo
art. I will respond to all the requests,
but I'm rather busy with work, right now, so it may take a couple of
days.......it's the least I can do, after all the valuable advice
I've received on the list!
Stephen, BJ8
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 16:04:40 +0000
Subject: Re: Hundred Registry
Rudi & Steve
You might be interested to know that I discussed this with Edie Anderson
when she was over in the UK last year. Actually it was on the front at
Perranporth not far from Donalds original garage and home.
Edie offered me a copy of the latest AHCA 100 records and did me the
honour of saying that she thought that these would be in safe hands.
I have not received them as yet because she was offering them in hard
copy format. Obviously I could re-enter them into our database and will
do so if necessary. However she thought that it was possible that a file
could be extracted from somewhere in the AHCA system and she offered to
look into this.
This is where we stand today. I would be very happy to put together a
database which covers as many countries as is possible. My only
reservation is that I do not wish to upset anybody in the process.
Meanwhile for those few who do not already know about our existing
Register it can be accessed for input at
Email: 100reg@jharper.demon.co.uk
WEB: http://www.jharper.demon.co.uk/100reg1.htm
All the best
>
>Steve,
>I am sending this on to Edie Anderson, National AHCA Secretary as she handles
>the registry organization. Hopefully if Bill Wood has resigned, we still can
>obtain his records.
>Rudy Streng
>
>Edie,
>There has been a bit of emails on the healey list about who is doing the 100
>Registry. Do you have that info? I had passed on Bill Wood's name as the
>contact, but I am not sure he is still handling the records. Any help would
>be appreciated.
>Rudy
--
John Harper
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 11:50:39 -0500
Subject: Even more about Healey Type face
Hello again, I thought I should make this clarification after reading
Steve Byer's note about the Healey
script being based on Gerry Coker's hand writing. The original
question posed was concerning the type within the logo, which I
assumed to be the wings. If some of you are referring to the script
(as appears on various promo literature,etc.), I don't have vector
art for that. I would be willing to produce art for it as well, but
it will depend on how much spare time I have.
Cheers, Stephen
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 10:56:27 -0600
Subject: Re: Door keys
Hi Bill,
Good question, however, there is no need to lengthen the short ones, as
they don't interfere with the turning of the lock anyway.
Peter (BMC Restorations)
----- Original Message -----
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Peter Brauen" <pbrauen@telepak.net>
Cc: <jbpate@attglobal.net>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 7:18 PM
Subject: Re: Door keys
> Which brings up the question: How do you file the short pins longer?
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> Peter Brauen wrote:
>
> > Hi Barry,
> > If you are holding just the tumbler assembly, and can see the little
> > brass 'tumblers,' insert the key you want to use and then file down the
ones
> > that stick up too high or down too low. A proper key will make the lock
> > assembly smooth on both sides. This is what a locksmith will do anyway.
Hope
> > this helps.
> > Peter (BMC Restorations)
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
> > To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 8:32 PM
> > Subject: Door keys
> >
> > >
> > > My two door keys are different. I now have the tumbler out of one of
> > > the handles. Can it be modified to the same key pattern as the other
> > > door or do I need to order two tumblers of the same pattern. Barry
Pate
> > > BJ8
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 10:54:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Door keys
Hi Bill,
I filed mine three times and they were still too short....
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/Sprite
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Brauen" <pbrauen@telepak.net>
To: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2001 9:56 AM
Subject: Re: Door keys
>
> Hi Bill,
> Good question, however, there is no need to lengthen the short ones,
as
> they don't interfere with the turning of the lock anyway.
> Peter (BMC Restorations)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
> To: "Peter Brauen" <pbrauen@telepak.net>
> Cc: <jbpate@attglobal.net>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 7:18 PM
> Subject: Re: Door keys
>
>
> > Which brings up the question: How do you file the short pins longer?
> >
> > Bill Lawrence
> >
> > Peter Brauen wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Barry,
> > > If you are holding just the tumbler assembly, and can see the
little
> > > brass 'tumblers,' insert the key you want to use and then file down
the
> ones
> > > that stick up too high or down too low. A proper key will make the
lock
> > > assembly smooth on both sides. This is what a locksmith will do
anyway.
> Hope
> > > this helps.
> > > Peter (BMC Restorations)
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
> > > To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 8:32 PM
> > > Subject: Door keys
> > >
> > > >
> > > > My two door keys are different. I now have the tumbler out of one
of
> > > > the handles. Can it be modified to the same key pattern as the other
> > > > door or do I need to order two tumblers of the same pattern. Barry
> Pate
> > > > BJ8
From "Murphy, David (Southfield)" <david.murphy at honeywell.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 11:14:30 -0700
Subject: Transmission Parts for BJ8
1)My '66 BJ8 occasionally jumps out of second gear when the throttle is
released. Does anyone know what is the likely cause and fix?
(There appears to be some axial and radial play in the 2nd gear on the
mainshaft and the little spring loaded balls that hold the synchro against
the gear don't seem to create much resistance to the synchro
engagement/disengagement.)
2)Does anyone know a source for new mainshaft gears (particularly second
(which jumps out) and first (which is chipped)) and layshaft gearset for
1966 BJ8?
( Moss and Victoria British show a most of these parts to be made of
unobtanium.)
3)How important is it from a wear point of view to replace all the mainshaft
and input shaft gears when the layshaft gearset is replaced?
Dave Murphy
'66 BJ8, '76 TR6
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 13:48:25 EST
Subject: Re: Even more about Healey Type face
I've just made a vector based file of the script from the winged logo. So,
now I have available, for anyone who wants 'em, the script logo, and the
script from the wing logo.
for those with capable software, they are handy as they can be sized as big
as a house without losing resolution or many other uses.
If you would like them, email me and I can send them out as Illustrator EPS
files or PDF's (which can also be opened in Illustrator for mods.)
Cheers,
Rick
San Diego
Oh yeah, you can download a PDF of an old Healey ad from my website
(members.aol.com) and extract the script logo from there too.
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 14:45:15 EST
Subject: Re: New products
If you want one, I have a $20.00 thermos for the thermostat.
Marion
From Doug Miller <doug at amouse.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 12:08:42 -0800
Subject: BN2 Windshield Pillars
I need to repair my BN 2 windshield pillars. Do any of you know if the
aluminum pillars are weldable? Are they made from castings? The
specific alloy would also give me the answer I need.
TIA.
Doug Miller
From Norman Cay <normcay at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 13:05:58 -0800
Subject: Re: BN2 Windshield Pillars
Doug, I recently welded up the area around the 'D' shaped hole on some from
an early BN1, while I'm not sure of the alloy, they welded similar to the
6061 series of aluminum. no difficulty at all.
norm
Doug Miller wrote:
> I need to repair my BN 2 windshield pillars. Do any of you know if the
> aluminum pillars are weldable? Are they made from castings? The
> specific alloy would also give me the answer I need.
> TIA.
> Doug Miller
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 16:09:54 -0600
Subject: Re: New products
how much for just the tat ?
----- Original Message -----
From: MBran89793@aol.com
To: thehartnetts@earthlink.net, jbumpus@home.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: New products
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 14:45:15 EST
If you want one, I have a $20.00 thermos for the thermostat.
Marion
From "Murphy, David (Southfield)" <david.murphy at honeywell.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 14:53:18 -0700
Subject: More on BJ8 Transmission parts
Has anyone had any experience with refurbished lay gearsets from Dennis
Welch?
If the teeth for first are damaged they are apparantly either repaired or
cut off the first gear and one with good teeth is welded on. So the final
product consists of all the old lay gears except for first which is "new"
having been welded on.
Dave Murphy
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 17:14:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Hundred Registry / was BJ8 Registry, etc.
Is this Mr. Wood somewhere in New England, if so I did the same thing. No
reply
lance
54 bn1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Edrick Adams" <je.adams@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 8:35 PM
Subject: Re: Hundred Registry / was BJ8 Registry, etc.
>
> You aren't alone, Steve
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, January 18, 2001 7:58 PM
> Subject: Re: Hundred Registry / was BJ8 Registry, etc.
>
>
> >
> >I wrote once to Mr. Wood with some information and a question,
> enclosing a
> >self-addressed, stamped envelope, but never received a reply.
> >
> >Steve Byers
> >HBJ8L/36666
> >BJ8 Registry
> >Havelock, NC USA
> >
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Awgertoo@aol.com <Awgertoo@aol.com>
> >To: Awgertoo@aol.com <Awgertoo@aol.com>; CAWS52803@aol.com
> ><CAWS52803@aol.com>; je.adams@worldnet.att.net
> <je.adams@worldnet.att.net>;
> >lchrysl@fhs.csu.mcmaster.ca <lchrysl@fhs.csu.mcmaster.ca>;
> >healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Date: Thursday, January 18, 2001 5:06 PM
> >Subject: Re: Hundred Registry / was BJ8 Registry, etc.
> >
> >
> >>
> >>In a message dated 1/18/01 1:41:58 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> >Awgertoo@aol.com
> >>writes:
> >>
> >><< The only person whom I ever heard of handling the 100 Registry
> is Bill
> >> Wood,
> >> PO Box 448, Egremont, MA 01258, (413) 528-3919
> >> Rudy Streng
> >> 100-Six Registry
> >> >>
> >> That is the 100 M/LeMans registry.
> >> The address for the 100 Registry is:
> www.jharper.demon.co.uk.100reg1.htm
> >> ("1" is a one in this font).
> >>
> >> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1L222333M
> >> >>
> >>Whoops! Sorry Rudy--you are 100% correct. The address I gave,
> however, is
> >>for the British 100 registry. I have been unable to reach Wood
> regarding
> >the
> >>American 100 registry. Some say he no longer is keeping it up (the
> >registry,
> >>that is....)
> >>
> >>Michael
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 17:22:11 EST
Subject: Re: New products
I'm going to go out on a limb here and guess that would be a tit for
tat...right?
In a message dated 1/19/01 14:14:41, jwbn6@iopener.net writes:
<<
how much for just the tat ?
----- Original Message -----
From: MBran89793@aol.com
To: thehartnetts@earthlink.net, jbumpus@home.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: New products
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 14:45:15 EST
If you want one, I have a $20.00 thermos for the thermostat.
Marion >>
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 15:17:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Hundred Registry
Yes, it's the Bill Wood of Egremont, Massachusetts. Bill's interest in
Austin-Healeys has apparently waned from 20 years ago when he was famous for
owning something like 6 (yes, six, I believe) 100S cars at the same time.
Or maybe it was a maximum of five at the same time, but six or seven
different ones over time, or something like that.
In any case he gradually sold them off and bought a Ford GT-40. Not too
practical for street use. I believe that he still owns a Le Mans Sprite,
and he was present with it in 1998 at "Sprite Rush," the
once-every-five-years Sprite meeting organized by Rick Moses in
Pennsylvania.
In any case, whatever becomes of the/a 100 Registry, I hope that it will be
a non-denominational registry (i.e., not labeled as belonging to any one
club), so that all Healey enthusiasts, regardless of club affiliation, or no
club affiliation at all, can feel included and welcome and will support it.
Cheers,
Reid
On Fri, 19 Jan 2001 17:14:15 -0500, Lance Werner wrote:
> Is this Mr. Wood somewhere in New England, if so I did the same thing.
No
> reply
> lance
> 54 bn1
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Edrick Adams" <je.adams@worldnet.att.net>
> To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 8:35 PM
> Subject: Re: Hundred Registry / was BJ8 Registry, etc.
>
>
> >
> > You aren't alone, Steve
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Date: Thursday, January 18, 2001 7:58 PM
> > Subject: Re: Hundred Registry / was BJ8 Registry, etc.
> >
> >
> > >
> > >I wrote once to Mr. Wood with some information and a question,
> > enclosing a
> > >self-addressed, stamped envelope, but never received a reply.
> > >
> > >Steve Byers
> > >HBJ8L/36666
> > >BJ8 Registry
> > >Havelock, NC USA
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >-----Original Message-----
> > >From: Awgertoo@aol.com <Awgertoo@aol.com>
> > >To: Awgertoo@aol.com <Awgertoo@aol.com>; CAWS52803@aol.com
> > ><CAWS52803@aol.com>; je.adams@worldnet.att.net
> > <je.adams@worldnet.att.net>;
> > >lchrysl@fhs.csu.mcmaster.ca <lchrysl@fhs.csu.mcmaster.ca>;
> > >healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > >Date: Thursday, January 18, 2001 5:06 PM
> > >Subject: Re: Hundred Registry / was BJ8 Registry, etc.
> > >
> > >
> > >>
> > >>In a message dated 1/18/01 1:41:58 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> > >Awgertoo@aol.com
> > >>writes:
> > >>
> > >><< The only person whom I ever heard of handling the 100 Registry
> > is Bill
> > >> Wood,
> > >> PO Box 448, Egremont, MA 01258, (413) 528-3919
> > >> Rudy Streng
> > >> 100-Six Registry
> > >> >>
> > >> That is the 100 M/LeMans registry.
> > >> The address for the 100 Registry is:
> > www.jharper.demon.co.uk.100reg1.htm
> > >> ("1" is a one in this font).
> > >>
> > >> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1L222333M
> > >> >>
> > >>Whoops! Sorry Rudy--you are 100% correct. The address I gave,
> > however, is
> > >>for the British 100 registry. I have been unable to reach Wood
> > regarding
> > >the
> > >>American 100 registry. Some say he no longer is keeping it up (the
> > >registry,
> > >>that is....)
> > >>
> > >>Michael
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2
2 x AN5 Just bought another 12/27 - Yeah, baby!
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 19:19:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Hundred Registry
Reid Trummel wrote:<snip>
> In any case, whatever becomes of the/a 100 Registry, I hope that it will
be
> a non-denominational registry (i.e., not labeled as belonging to any one
> club), so that all Healey enthusiasts, regardless of club affiliation, or
no
> club affiliation at all, can feel included and welcome and will support
it.
Point well taken, Reid.
This should rise above any and all political and personal aspects, borders,
boundaries, etc.
Is there any advantage to having a separate registry on this side of the
pond? If we all were to feed our info to John Harper who has a considerable
amount of data already, we'd already have a good head start.
Possibly an assistant here in North America, who'd be easier and cheaper to
phone if needs be, rather than trying to place relatively expensive overseas
calls, would be a good idea. Of course Email or snail mail would be the most
logical communication venue.
I would certainly volunteer to help in such a capacity
Comments? Questions?
Rich Chrysler
Mt. Hope, Ontario, Canada.
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 18:42:38 -0600
Subject: Re: New products
<<I'm going to go out on a limb here and guess that would be a tit for
tat...>>
Just HAVE to "borrow" this one, folks.
Kinda like:
Excellent reproduction on "old" photos on AHCUSA's (holeless) calendar
VS
LOUSY reproduction on AHCA's photos on "...beautiful...l" one.
Cheers.............
Dis-satisfied Ed
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 16:42:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Hundred Registry
I don't know if I'm empowered to do this, but if I am, I would like to
nominate Rich for this position of North American Coordinator for the Healey
Hundred Registry. John Harper, in the UK, is already keeping a 100 Registry
and apparently doing a very good job with it, so rather than re-invent the
wire wheel it would seem to make sense to build on his work.
Perhaps Rich could get the records, if any remain, from Bill Wood. Of
course, this assumes that Bill Wood is willing to relinguish the title and
the records. I don't know that anyone is empowered to brush him aside and
so we really ought to solicit his thoughts on this, first of all, if we
desire to revive the registry and possibly receive Bill's records. Rich,
could you try contacting him? (His number, at last report, was (413)
528-3919.)
Cheers,
Reid
On Fri, 19 Jan 2001 19:19:39 -0500, Rich C wrote:
>
> Reid Trummel wrote:<snip>
> > In any case, whatever becomes of the/a 100 Registry, I hope that it
will
> be
> > a non-denominational registry (i.e., not labeled as belonging to any
one
> > club), so that all Healey enthusiasts, regardless of club affiliation,
or
> no
> > club affiliation at all, can feel included and welcome and will support
> it.
>
> Point well taken, Reid.
> This should rise above any and all political and personal aspects,
borders,
> boundaries, etc.
> Is there any advantage to having a separate registry on this side of the
> pond? If we all were to feed our info to John Harper who has a
considerable
> amount of data already, we'd already have a good head start.
> Possibly an assistant here in North America, who'd be easier and cheaper
to
> phone if needs be, rather than trying to place relatively expensive
overseas
> calls, would be a good idea. Of course Email or snail mail would be the
most
> logical communication venue.
> I would certainly volunteer to help in such a capacity
> Comments? Questions?
> Rich Chrysler
> Mt. Hope, Ontario, Canada.
>
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 19:06:43 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 Miss
I've dealt with Moss and I find that mailing him the old part increases your
chances of getting the right one back. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Goode" <mgoode@netjets.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 4:22 PM
Subject: BJ8 Miss
>
> Thanks to everyone for the help on diagnosing my miss at 2500 rpm. I
> was ready to rebuild the carb, but after several suggestions
> concerning the ignition system, I replaced the distributor cap, plugs
> and wires first. Just got back from "ops checking" it and it runs like
> a charm...no hint of the miss. It now revs like I remember.
>
> I did get a rotor from Moss and although it looked smaller than the
> original one, I put it in anyway. Bad idea...it is about a eighth of
> an inch taller and rubbed against the top of the cap, eventually
> driving the carbon connector into the cap resulting in a fast death to
> zero rpm. I popped the carbon connector back down, put on the other
> rotor and it fired right up. Now to try and find the right rotor.
>
> Again thanks for all the suggestions. I sent the master rebuild kit
> back to Moss saving $160 and lots of hours.
>
> Mike Goode
> BJ8, Scottsdale
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 19:10:39 -0700
Subject: Re: Door keys
If that was a joke on your part you should have included a lol at the end.
If it wasn't have the job done by a locksmith and save yourself a lot of
grief. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Peter Brauen" <pbrauen@telepak.net>
Cc: <jbpate@attglobal.net>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 6:18 PM
Subject: Re: Door keys
>
> Which brings up the question: How do you file the short pins longer?
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> Peter Brauen wrote:
>
> > Hi Barry,
> > If you are holding just the tumbler assembly, and can see the little
> > brass 'tumblers,' insert the key you want to use and then file down the
ones
> > that stick up too high or down too low. A proper key will make the lock
> > assembly smooth on both sides. This is what a locksmith will do anyway.
Hope
> > this helps.
> > Peter (BMC Restorations)
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
> > To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 8:32 PM
> > Subject: Door keys
> >
> > >
> > > My two door keys are different. I now have the tumbler out of one of
> > > the handles. Can it be modified to the same key pattern as the other
> > > door or do I need to order two tumblers of the same pattern. Barry
Pate
> > > BJ8
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 21:38:59 -0500
Subject: RE: Transmission Parts for BJ8
1) Jumping out of second gear is normally the result of wear on
the teeth which engage the syncrho hub. If you look straight
down on these, they should have a profile which looks like a
house:
/\
/ \
| |
| |
If the roof top is lopsided, then you may have enough wear on them
that the reverse torque when you let up on the gas makes them push
the synchronizer hub toward the neutral position.
The cure is to replace the outer ring of first gear and second gear.
2) Sources for gears. Either AH Spares or SC Parts group used to sell
first gear. I am not sure that you can buy just the outter ring, however.
I was able to get second and third gears for my BJ7 from Sports and Classics
a few years ago (203-655-8731). He seemed to have a good stock of NOS
gearbox
parts when I bought mine from him three years ago.
3) You really don't get much wear on the parts of second, third, and fourth
gears which mesh with the lay gear, since they are always engaged. If there
is nothing else wrong with them, I would leave them alone. (You are going
to
have to replace first and second, from what you have said.)
Where are you getting your laygear?
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Murphy, David
(Southfield)
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2001 1:15 PM
To: 'healey list'
Subject: Transmission Parts for BJ8
1)My '66 BJ8 occasionally jumps out of second gear when the throttle is
released. Does anyone know what is the likely cause and fix?
(There appears to be some axial and radial play in the 2nd gear on the
mainshaft and the little spring loaded balls that hold the synchro against
the gear don't seem to create much resistance to the synchro
engagement/disengagement.)
2)Does anyone know a source for new mainshaft gears (particularly second
(which jumps out) and first (which is chipped)) and layshaft gearset for
1966 BJ8?
( Moss and Victoria British show a most of these parts to be made of
unobtanium.)
3)How important is it from a wear point of view to replace all the mainshaft
and input shaft gears when the layshaft gearset is replaced?
Dave Murphy
'66 BJ8, '76 TR6
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 20:36:05 -0600
Subject: Re: New products
or possibly two tits for a tat.....
----- Original Message -----
From: WilKo@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: New products
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 17:22:11 EST
I'm going to go out on a limb here and guess that would be a tit for
tat...right?
In a message dated 1/19/01 14:14:41, jwbn6@iopener.net writes:
<<
how much for just the tat ?
----- Original Message -----
From: MBran89793@aol.com
To: thehartnetts@earthlink.net, jbumpus@home.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: New products
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 14:45:15 EST
If you want one, I have a $20.00 thermos for the thermostat.
Marion >>
From "Murphy, David (Southfield)" <david.murphy at honeywell.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 19:37:41 -0700
Subject: RE: Transmission Parts for BJ8
Oops! - A minor correction: The chip out of my first gear is in the layshaft
gear set and not in the mainshaft's first gear (which exhibits only slight
resulting tooth wear on one end).
Thanks to all who have responded thus far. Your info is very helpful.
Dave
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Murphy, David (Southfield)
> Sent: Friday, January 19, 2001 1:15 PM
> To: 'healey list'
> Subject: Transmission Parts for BJ8
>
> 1)My '66 BJ8 occasionally jumps out of second gear when the throttle is
> released. Does anyone know what is the likely cause and fix?
>
> (There appears to be some axial and radial play in the 2nd gear on the
> mainshaft and the little spring loaded balls that hold the synchro against
> the gear don't seem to create much resistance to the synchro
> engagement/disengagement.)
>
> 2)Does anyone know a source for new mainshaft gears (particularly second
> (which jumps out) and first (which is chipped)) and layshaft gearset for
> 1966 BJ8?
>
> ( Moss and Victoria British show a most of these parts to be made of
> unobtanium.)
>
> 3)How important is it from a wear point of view to replace all the
> mainshaft and input shaft gears when the layshaft gearset is replaced?
>
> Dave Murphy
> '66 BJ8, '76 TR6
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 00:14:22 EST
Subject: Re: Hundred Registry
In a message dated 01/19/2001 5:28:25 PM Mountain Standard Time,
rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca writes:
<< s there any advantage to having a separate registry on this side of the
pond? If we all were to feed our info to John Harper who has a considerable
amount of data already, we'd already have a good head start.
Possibly an assistant here in North America, who'd be easier and cheaper to
phone if needs be, rather than trying to place relatively expensive overseas
calls, would be a good idea. Of course Email or snail mail would be the most
logical communication venue. >>
I would hope that a registery would be able to serve as a research tool as
well as protection to owners. Perhaps having one based over here makes sense
(we certainly had the lion's share of production shipped to the USA), but
duplication of effort isn't something I relish. Maybe someone who has the
time could talk with John and see if we could work with him and also that the
information could be documented in a way that would protect owners yet still
provide useful research data. That takes a lot of work, but you have to have
a data base to draw from, and trustworthy researchers to protect that which
has no need for dissemination.
Roger
From Lynn and Jean Neff <lynnneff at springnet1.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 05:22:39 -0600
Subject: Calendar / Without holes
Reid...I'm kind of a round hole / square peg kind of guy. Can you give
me some tech help in this regard?
Lynn BT7
From Magnus Karlsson <healey at telia.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 15:55:35 +0000
Subject: Re More on BJ8 Transmission parts
The repaired laygears doesn4t last very long, since the material apparently
is too soft. The best solution is to get a complete new laygear, which will
have the correct grade of hardness throughout.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 10:29:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Hundred Registry
Upon arrival in Perranporth during the UK2K Tour of England, we parked
directly across the street from the Austin Healey Club meeting room for a
dinner with the club. Before we could get the car closed up, John Harper
had arrived and was asking if our 100 was in the registry. The next
morning at a car show on the beach, John again approached us with a flyer
outlining the registry, and asked for us to send in our information. This
type of hard work and determination should be recognized. Hopefully we
could get him some help in the US, but I believe that he should control the
registry.
Best Regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 14:49:30 +0000
Subject: Re: Hundred Registry
Having received or read many helpful and encouraging Emails recently
would like to make various comment which I will place on this single
Email.
Reid Trummel speaks of a non-denominational registry (i.e., not labeled
as belonging to any one club). - For the last four or five years I have
worked towards this as far as is possible. Prior to this we used to ask
owners for their membership number before agreeing to help but this does
not work once one interacts with owners from other countries so we have
stopped doing this. Many of us take the view that a genuine enthusist
will belong to his or her local club anyway. Those in it for commercial
gain are usually easy to spot.
Having said this there is still in my view a need for a register to be
under the control of a properly constituted Club. We do not have an
International Austin-Healey Club but we do have a whole set of informal
links around the Western world encouraged and supported by the Healey
family.
In the case of the UK Club we have Bic and Peter Healey as Vice
Presidents who I am sure would soon interject on behalf of a non UK Club
if they felt that something untoward was happening.
Regarding the integrity of the information held in a database, this
depends on the person controlling it and the rules under which the data
is held. I have been looking after the UK 100 database now for over ten
years but obviously I have to leave it to other to decide whether they
wish to trust me with their personal information.
Perhaps more important; here in the UK data held by an organisation is
controlled under British Law in the form of the of the Data Protection
Act. This very much constrains the information we can give out. This in
simple terms means very little except by prior approval of the Owner. On
the other hand however this Law is as strong or perhaps even stonger
than in any other country so should inspire confidence. Also we like to
thing that British Law is well respected in most parts of the Western
World.
Rich Chrysler and Reid have raised the suggestion of an assistant in
North America, who'd be easier and cheaper to phone if needs be, rather
than trying to place relatively expensive overseas calls. I personally
welcome any help and assistance so my only comment would be that it must
be for the North Americans to choose who should represent N. America not
me.
Roger Moment has stated that he would hope that a registery would be
able to serve as a research tool. Under present rules it would not be
permissable to make a copy of the full database available outside the
UK. However I have made various proposals regarding a compromise to the
Austin-Healey Club UK committee but so far there is no outcome. This is
a difficult area as you might appreciate. As second best I would be
happy in principle to carry out any research that Roger or others might
request. I have done this on various occassions in the past so I think
that I know what is involved. For example summaries and statistics are
provided to the AHC UK AGM where they become "public domain". This has
been the custom and practice for at least 20 years so I do not see any
problem here.
Finally and most importantly I have been contacted directly by Bill Wood
who has been very helpful and constructive in what he has said. I intend
to discuss this further with Bill.
All the best
--
John Harper
From "Mike Goode" <mlgoode at msn.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 09:32:56 -0700
Subject: Barrett Jackson Auction
Listers:
Just got back from the Barrett Jackson auction here in Scottsdale. Had
four Healeys there all in very nice condition and fully restored.....a
BN7, two BT7's and a BJ8. Should be interesting to see what they go
for. You can monitor the prices by going to www.barrettjackson.com.
They usually post them the week following the auction.
Mood this year was a little less euphoric than last year's....may have
something to do with portfolio valuations after the March
"decline".....
Mike Goode
BJ8, Scottsdale
From WmsRbt at aol.com
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 12:03:27 EST
Subject: Condensation on Car
Hi all,
I'm a newbie owner, just got my hands on my first Healey, a BJ8, that I had
restored to V,VG driver status by someone who dit the work faster (1 1/2
years vs. at least 25 years) than I could have, and much better to boot.
Being a newbie I get at least 50 basic questions before I get flamed, right?
Well, here's my first request for feedback on a problem. (Incidently, I
searched the list and I didn't find this discussed. I've done a search on
other questions I had, and found the list to be tremendous resource. You
guys are much to be thanked for sharing your knowledge about these great
cars. stroke stroke)
I have my car stored under a cover in my garage, which is not air-conditioned
of course. Today, I went out to the garage to tinker, pamper, etc. I
removed the cover and resumed spiritual bonding with my car. To my dismay, I
discovered that condensation had formed on metal surfaces. I first noticed
it on the wire wheels, but on further inspection I find condensation on the
frame, sofit sides of body panels, exhaust system and the like. Today is
damp and rainy. Last night was not particularly cold, but since the relative
humity is close to 100 percent and the car is cool (literally, in this
context), the moisture in the air is apparently condensing on the first cold
surface it contacts as the air flows up from around the skirt of the cover.
I even saw evidence where moisture had run down the side of the car on
previous occasions and dried, so this has been going on for a while.
I can imagine all kinds of problems that this can cause; condensation in
half-filled gas tanks, moisture in distributor, the infamous condensation in
fuel gauges, corrosion in exhaust system, and on and on. Needless to say, I
have invested too much in my Healey to have it sitting under a cover, bathed
in moisture.
I'm curious if anyone has encountered this problem and what you did. I'm
open to suggestions, even so far as to AC the garage. You may respond off
list if you like, and thanks in advance to all.
Robert Williams
66 BJ8 (Thank you Pete Delaney!)
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 09:51:36 -0800
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
What kind of cover are you using, not a plastic tarp I hope...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: <WmsRbt@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <DelaneySF@aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 20, 2001 9:03 AM
Subject: Condensation on Car
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm a newbie owner, just got my hands on my first Healey, a BJ8, that I
had
> restored to V,VG driver status by someone who dit the work faster (1 1/2
> years vs. at least 25 years) than I could have, and much better to boot.
> Being a newbie I get at least 50 basic questions before I get flamed,
right?
>
> Well, here's my first request for feedback on a problem. (Incidently, I
> searched the list and I didn't find this discussed. I've done a search on
> other questions I had, and found the list to be tremendous resource. You
> guys are much to be thanked for sharing your knowledge about these great
> cars. stroke stroke)
>
> I have my car stored under a cover in my garage, which is not
air-conditioned
> of course. Today, I went out to the garage to tinker, pamper, etc. I
> removed the cover and resumed spiritual bonding with my car. To my
dismay, I
> discovered that condensation had formed on metal surfaces. I first
noticed
> it on the wire wheels, but on further inspection I find condensation on
the
> frame, sofit sides of body panels, exhaust system and the like. Today is
> damp and rainy. Last night was not particularly cold, but since the
relative
> humity is close to 100 percent and the car is cool (literally, in this
> context), the moisture in the air is apparently condensing on the first
cold
> surface it contacts as the air flows up from around the skirt of the
cover.
> I even saw evidence where moisture had run down the side of the car on
> previous occasions and dried, so this has been going on for a while.
>
> I can imagine all kinds of problems that this can cause; condensation in
> half-filled gas tanks, moisture in distributor, the infamous condensation
in
> fuel gauges, corrosion in exhaust system, and on and on. Needless to say,
I
> have invested too much in my Healey to have it sitting under a cover,
bathed
> in moisture.
>
> I'm curious if anyone has encountered this problem and what you did. I'm
> open to suggestions, even so far as to AC the garage. You may respond off
> list if you like, and thanks in advance to all.
>
> Robert Williams
> 66 BJ8 (Thank you Pete Delaney!)
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 13:10:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
Up here in cold canada, I keep the garage at 35 F for winter and
spring storage. Constant temperature is more unimportant than how
high. In Houston I have seen air conditioned garages spit out a
car that immediately condenses. You are right - inside panels,
especially poorly protected, over time, will suffer. A breathing
cover also helps.
My friend's series 3 roadster jag has been stored in an unheated
garage. After 10 years the car has sagged and closed the door gaps
without moving one foot.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: <WmsRbt@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <DelaneySF@aol.com>
Sent: January 20, 2001 12:03 PM
Subject: Condensation on Car
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm a newbie owner, just got my hands on my first Healey, a BJ8,
that I had
> restored to V,VG driver status by someone who dit the work
faster (1 1/2
> years vs. at least 25 years) than I could have, and much better
to boot.
> Being a newbie I get at least 50 basic questions before I get
flamed, right?
>
> Well, here's my first request for feedback on a problem.
(Incidently, I
> searched the list and I didn't find this discussed. I've done a
search on
> other questions I had, and found the list to be tremendous
resource. You
> guys are much to be thanked for sharing your knowledge about
these great
> cars. stroke stroke)
>
> I have my car stored under a cover in my garage, which is not
air-conditioned
> of course. Today, I went out to the garage to tinker, pamper,
etc. I
> removed the cover and resumed spiritual bonding with my car. To
my dismay, I
> discovered that condensation had formed on metal surfaces. I
first noticed
> it on the wire wheels, but on further inspection I find
condensation on the
> frame, sofit sides of body panels, exhaust system and the like.
Today is
> damp and rainy. Last night was not particularly cold, but since
the relative
> humity is close to 100 percent and the car is cool (literally,
in this
> context), the moisture in the air is apparently condensing on
the first cold
> surface it contacts as the air flows up from around the skirt of
the cover.
> I even saw evidence where moisture had run down the side of the
car on
> previous occasions and dried, so this has been going on for a
while.
>
> I can imagine all kinds of problems that this can cause;
condensation in
> half-filled gas tanks, moisture in distributor, the infamous
condensation in
> fuel gauges, corrosion in exhaust system, and on and on.
Needless to say, I
> have invested too much in my Healey to have it sitting under a
cover, bathed
> in moisture.
>
> I'm curious if anyone has encountered this problem and what you
did. I'm
> open to suggestions, even so far as to AC the garage. You may
respond off
> list if you like, and thanks in advance to all.
>
> Robert Williams
> 66 BJ8 (Thank you Pete Delaney!)
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 13:04:19 -0500
Subject: Follow up on the Healey logo
Hello all, I've sent out an Illustrator file with both the wings and
script artwork to everyone who has asked for it.....I think! If
you've been left off the list, just let me know.
I'm working on a Mac, and if that's a problem for any of you, also let me know.
Regards, Stephen BJ8
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 13:04:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
Hi, Robert, and welcome to the list!
You live inland in N.C. and I live on the coast, so it is normally even more
humid here than where you are. My garage is also neither air conditioned
nor heated, and once in a while I have experienced the condensation you are
seeing. My BJ8 has lived in my garage since 1989 and it hasn't obviously
suffered from this environment. I do not keep the car covered, but I do
make sure it has a good coat of wax, expecially on all the chrome bits.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: WmsRbt@aol.com <WmsRbt@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: DelaneySF@aol.com <DelaneySF@aol.com>
Date: Saturday, January 20, 2001 12:41 PM
Subject: Condensation on Car
>
>Hi all,
>
>I'm a newbie owner, just got my hands on my first Healey, a BJ8, that I had
>restored to V,VG driver status by someone who dit the work faster (1 1/2
>years vs. at least 25 years) than I could have, and much better to boot.
>Being a newbie I get at least 50 basic questions before I get flamed,
right?
>
>Well, here's my first request for feedback on a problem. (Incidently, I
>searched the list and I didn't find this discussed. I've done a search on
>other questions I had, and found the list to be tremendous resource. You
>guys are much to be thanked for sharing your knowledge about these great
>cars. stroke stroke)
>
>I have my car stored under a cover in my garage, which is not
air-conditioned
>of course. Today, I went out to the garage to tinker, pamper, etc. I
>removed the cover and resumed spiritual bonding with my car. To my dismay,
I
>discovered that condensation had formed on metal surfaces. I first
noticed
>it on the wire wheels, but on further inspection I find condensation on the
>frame, sofit sides of body panels, exhaust system and the like. Today is
>damp and rainy. Last night was not particularly cold, but since the
relative
>humity is close to 100 percent and the car is cool (literally, in this
>context), the moisture in the air is apparently condensing on the first
cold
>surface it contacts as the air flows up from around the skirt of the cover.
>I even saw evidence where moisture had run down the side of the car on
>previous occasions and dried, so this has been going on for a while.
>
>I can imagine all kinds of problems that this can cause; condensation in
>half-filled gas tanks, moisture in distributor, the infamous condensation
in
>fuel gauges, corrosion in exhaust system, and on and on. Needless to say,
I
>have invested too much in my Healey to have it sitting under a cover,
bathed
>in moisture.
>
>I'm curious if anyone has encountered this problem and what you did. I'm
>open to suggestions, even so far as to AC the garage. You may respond off
>list if you like, and thanks in advance to all.
>
>Robert Williams
>66 BJ8 (Thank you Pete Delaney!)
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 14:00:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
It's the unseen inside (~unprotected) panel work where
condensation can eat the car from inside out.
PS - My last post had a typo. Constant storage temperature is MORE
IMPORTANT than how high.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <DelaneySF@aol.com>
Sent: January 20, 2001 1:04 PM
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
>
> Hi, Robert, and welcome to the list!
>
> You live inland in N.C. and I live on the coast, so it is
normally even more
> humid here than where you are. My garage is also neither air
conditioned
> nor heated, and once in a while I have experienced the
condensation you are
> seeing. My BJ8 has lived in my garage since 1989 and it
hasn't obviously
> suffered from this environment. I do not keep the car covered,
but I do
> make sure it has a good coat of wax, expecially on all the
chrome bits.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> Havelock, NC
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: WmsRbt@aol.com <WmsRbt@aol.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Cc: DelaneySF@aol.com <DelaneySF@aol.com>
> Date: Saturday, January 20, 2001 12:41 PM
> Subject: Condensation on Car
>
>
> >
> >Hi all,
> >
> >I'm a newbie owner, just got my hands on my first Healey, a
BJ8, that I had
> >restored to V,VG driver status by someone who dit the work
faster (1 1/2
> >years vs. at least 25 years) than I could have, and much better
to boot.
> >Being a newbie I get at least 50 basic questions before I get
flamed,
> right?
> >
> >Well, here's my first request for feedback on a problem.
(Incidently, I
> >searched the list and I didn't find this discussed. I've done
a search on
> >other questions I had, and found the list to be tremendous
resource. You
> >guys are much to be thanked for sharing your knowledge about
these great
> >cars. stroke stroke)
> >
> >I have my car stored under a cover in my garage, which is not
> air-conditioned
> >of course. Today, I went out to the garage to tinker, pamper,
etc. I
> >removed the cover and resumed spiritual bonding with my car.
To my dismay,
> I
> >discovered that condensation had formed on metal surfaces. I
first
> noticed
> >it on the wire wheels, but on further inspection I find
condensation on the
> >frame, sofit sides of body panels, exhaust system and the like.
Today is
> >damp and rainy. Last night was not particularly cold, but
since the
> relative
> >humity is close to 100 percent and the car is cool (literally,
in this
> >context), the moisture in the air is apparently condensing on
the first
> cold
> >surface it contacts as the air flows up from around the skirt
of the cover.
> >I even saw evidence where moisture had run down the side of the
car on
> >previous occasions and dried, so this has been going on for a
while.
> >
> >I can imagine all kinds of problems that this can cause;
condensation in
> >half-filled gas tanks, moisture in distributor, the infamous
condensation
> in
> >fuel gauges, corrosion in exhaust system, and on and on.
Needless to say,
> I
> >have invested too much in my Healey to have it sitting under a
cover,
> bathed
> >in moisture.
> >
> >I'm curious if anyone has encountered this problem and what you
did. I'm
> >open to suggestions, even so far as to AC the garage. You may
respond off
> >list if you like, and thanks in advance to all.
> >
> >Robert Williams
> >66 BJ8 (Thank you Pete Delaney!)
From Doug Miller <doug at amouse.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 11:06:30 -0800
Subject: Re: BN2 Windshield Pillars
Norm,
Many thanks for the reply. The repair I need to make is also at the "D"
shaped hole. I am missing the straight leg of the "D". I will get a
piece of 6061 and give it a go.
Doug
From "Paul Cleary" <pcleary at ican.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 14:25:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
Hi Mike,
I live in Ontario, and have had my car stored for nearly 3 years in an
unheated garage. My advice is to make sure that you keep the doors to the
garage closed as much as possible, due to the temp differences between
inside and outside, especially in the spring.
I also keep my car covered but I allow air to circulate underneath the car.
I have had no problems. I owned a car prior to the Healey and that was
stored the same way for 9 years, and again no problem.
I had a friend that had same situation but he had his tumble dryer venting
out in the garage and he had major problems because the warm air was
settling on his car.
Hope this helps...
Paul Cleary
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Lupynec <mlupynec@globalserve.net>
To: <WmsRbt@aol.com>; <>
Cc: <DelaneySF@aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 20, 2001 1:10 PM
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
>
> Up here in cold canada, I keep the garage at 35 F for winter and
> spring storage. Constant temperature is more unimportant than how
> high. In Houston I have seen air conditioned garages spit out a
> car that immediately condenses. You are right - inside panels,
> especially poorly protected, over time, will suffer. A breathing
> cover also helps.
>
> My friend's series 3 roadster jag has been stored in an unheated
> garage. After 10 years the car has sagged and closed the door gaps
> without moving one foot.
>
> Mike L.
> 60A,67E,59Bug
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <WmsRbt@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Cc: <DelaneySF@aol.com>
> Sent: January 20, 2001 12:03 PM
> Subject: Condensation on Car
>
>
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I'm a newbie owner, just got my hands on my first Healey, a BJ8,
> that I had
> > restored to V,VG driver status by someone who dit the work
> faster (1 1/2
> > years vs. at least 25 years) than I could have, and much better
> to boot.
> > Being a newbie I get at least 50 basic questions before I get
> flamed, right?
> >
> > Well, here's my first request for feedback on a problem.
> (Incidently, I
> > searched the list and I didn't find this discussed. I've done a
> search on
> > other questions I had, and found the list to be tremendous
> resource. You
> > guys are much to be thanked for sharing your knowledge about
> these great
> > cars. stroke stroke)
> >
> > I have my car stored under a cover in my garage, which is not
> air-conditioned
> > of course. Today, I went out to the garage to tinker, pamper,
> etc. I
> > removed the cover and resumed spiritual bonding with my car. To
> my dismay, I
> > discovered that condensation had formed on metal surfaces. I
> first noticed
> > it on the wire wheels, but on further inspection I find
> condensation on the
> > frame, sofit sides of body panels, exhaust system and the like.
> Today is
> > damp and rainy. Last night was not particularly cold, but since
> the relative
> > humity is close to 100 percent and the car is cool (literally,
> in this
> > context), the moisture in the air is apparently condensing on
> the first cold
> > surface it contacts as the air flows up from around the skirt of
> the cover.
> > I even saw evidence where moisture had run down the side of the
> car on
> > previous occasions and dried, so this has been going on for a
> while.
> >
> > I can imagine all kinds of problems that this can cause;
> condensation in
> > half-filled gas tanks, moisture in distributor, the infamous
> condensation in
> > fuel gauges, corrosion in exhaust system, and on and on.
> Needless to say, I
> > have invested too much in my Healey to have it sitting under a
> cover, bathed
> > in moisture.
> >
> > I'm curious if anyone has encountered this problem and what you
> did. I'm
> > open to suggestions, even so far as to AC the garage. You may
> respond off
> > list if you like, and thanks in advance to all.
> >
> > Robert Williams
> > 66 BJ8 (Thank you Pete Delaney!)
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 12:38:54 -0700
Subject: Fw: Lower gasoline prices
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
<DYARNES@aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 20, 2001 12:02 PM
Subject: Fwd: Lower gasoline prices
> Hi,
>
> Who knows, it might work.
>
Dave
Return-path: <Qualeyp@aol.com>
From: Qualeyp@aol.com
Full-name: Qualeyp
Message-ID: <d4.13d4118.279a2e5c@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 18:57:16 EST
Subject: Fwd: Lower gasoline prices
To: Bevwas@aol.com, calmly1@peoplepc.com, cevert@lsuhsc.edu,
darylmckee@Home.com, davidmccary@msn.com, DDHassell@aol.com,
djloranger@compuserve.com, edunkle@mindspring.com,
emire@bellsouth.net, GAMMIEJ@aol.com, jane@quejac.com,
Jimwyche@aol.com, jon.qualey@verizon.com, larupled@gateway.net,
LEELAURA@prodigy.net, marciac@lamar.colo state.edu, MXCLIFTON@aol.com,
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Message-ID: <79.f21889a.2799e6be@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 13:51:42 EST
Subject: Fwd: Lower gasoline prices
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Subject: Fwd: Lower gasoline prices
To: DBlitz@csci-va.com, Sage65@aol.com, Htt96@aol.com,
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This makes more sense than the "don't buy gas on a certain day"
routine that was going around in April or
May.
Gasoline Prices
Whoever started this
has a good point.
By now you're probably thinking gasoline
priced at about $1.49 is cheap.
Me too! As it is now $1.73
for regular unleaded. Now that the oil
companies and the OPEC nations
have conditioned us to think that the
cost of a gallon of gas is CHEAP
at less than $1.50, we need to try an
aggressive
response.
With the price of gasoline going up more each day,
we consumers need to take action. The only way we are going to see
the price of gas come
down is if we don't buy it. But, that's not
really a practical option
since we all have come to rely on our cars.
But we CAN have an impact
on gas prices if we all act
together.
Here's the idea -
For the rest of this
year, don't purchase gasoline from the two biggest
companies (which now
are one), EXXON and MOBIL. If they are not
selling, they should be
inclined to reduce their prices -- and if they
reduce their prices the
other companies will too. But to have an impact,
we need to
reach literally millions of users. But it's doable!
I am
sending this note to 42 people. If each of you send it to at least
10
more ...and those 10 send it to at least 10 more ... and so on by
the
time the message reaches the sixth iteration we will have reached
over
one million consumers. Acting together we can make a difference.
If
this makes sense to you, please pass this message on, or one
you
compose, to at least 10 more E-mail addresses.
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 15:08:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
It's Robert who was looking for input, but I agree with you. Up
here in the SPRING it's the aggressive temperature variations
combined with big swings in relative humidity that will cause the
most condensation. You can even sometimes see wet floors in
properly insulated hairplane hangars.
The concept is simple - an LBC metal surface cooler than the
surrounding air. The how and why and associated antidotes are a
little more complex. (And the big hollow box sill innard sections
on Etypes are particularly susceptible).
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Cleary <pcleary@ican.net>
To: Michael Lupynec <mlupynec@globalserve.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: January 20, 2001 2:25 PM
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
> Hi Mike,
>
> I live in Ontario, and have had my car stored for nearly 3 years
in an
> unheated garage. My advice is to make sure that you keep the
doors to the
> garage closed as much as possible, due to the temp differences
between
> inside and outside, especially in the spring.
>
> I also keep my car covered but I allow air to circulate
underneath the car.
> I have had no problems. I owned a car prior to the Healey and
that was
> stored the same way for 9 years, and again no problem.
>
> I had a friend that had same situation but he had his tumble
dryer venting
> out in the garage and he had major problems because the warm air
was
> settling on his car.
>
> Hope this helps...
>
>
> Paul Cleary
> BJ8
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> From: Michael Lupynec <mlupynec@globalserve.net>
> To: <WmsRbt@aol.com>; <>
> Cc: <DelaneySF@aol.com>
> Sent: Saturday, January 20, 2001 1:10 PM
> Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
>
>
> >
> > Up here in cold canada, I keep the garage at 35 F for winter
and
> > spring storage. Constant temperature is more unimportant than
how
> > high. In Houston I have seen air conditioned garages spit out
a
> > car that immediately condenses. You are right - inside panels,
> > especially poorly protected, over time, will suffer. A
breathing
> > cover also helps.
> >
> > My friend's series 3 roadster jag has been stored in an
unheated
> > garage. After 10 years the car has sagged and closed the door
gaps
> > without moving one foot.
> >
> > Mike L.
> > 60A,67E,59Bug
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <WmsRbt@aol.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Cc: <DelaneySF@aol.com>
> > Sent: January 20, 2001 12:03 PM
> > Subject: Condensation on Car
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > I'm a newbie owner, just got my hands on my first Healey, a
BJ8,
> > that I had
> > > restored to V,VG driver status by someone who dit the work
> > faster (1 1/2
> > > years vs. at least 25 years) than I could have, and much
better
> > to boot.
> > > Being a newbie I get at least 50 basic questions before I
get
> > flamed, right?
> > >
> > > Well, here's my first request for feedback on a problem.
> > (Incidently, I
> > > searched the list and I didn't find this discussed. I've
done a
> > search on
> > > other questions I had, and found the list to be tremendous
> > resource. You
> > > guys are much to be thanked for sharing your knowledge about
> > these great
> > > cars. stroke stroke)
> > >
> > > I have my car stored under a cover in my garage, which is
not
> > air-conditioned
> > > of course. Today, I went out to the garage to tinker,
pamper,
> > etc. I
> > > removed the cover and resumed spiritual bonding with my car.
To
> > my dismay, I
> > > discovered that condensation had formed on metal surfaces.
I
> > first noticed
> > > it on the wire wheels, but on further inspection I find
> > condensation on the
> > > frame, sofit sides of body panels, exhaust system and the
like.
> > Today is
> > > damp and rainy. Last night was not particularly cold, but
since
> > the relative
> > > humity is close to 100 percent and the car is cool
(literally,
> > in this
> > > context), the moisture in the air is apparently condensing
on
> > the first cold
> > > surface it contacts as the air flows up from around the
skirt of
> > the cover.
> > > I even saw evidence where moisture had run down the side of
the
> > car on
> > > previous occasions and dried, so this has been going on for
a
> > while.
> > >
> > > I can imagine all kinds of problems that this can cause;
> > condensation in
> > > half-filled gas tanks, moisture in distributor, the infamous
> > condensation in
> > > fuel gauges, corrosion in exhaust system, and on and on.
> > Needless to say, I
> > > have invested too much in my Healey to have it sitting under
a
> > cover, bathed
> > > in moisture.
> > >
> > > I'm curious if anyone has encountered this problem and what
you
> > did. I'm
> > > open to suggestions, even so far as to AC the garage. You
may
> > respond off
> > > list if you like, and thanks in advance to all.
> > >
> > > Robert Williams
> > > 66 BJ8 (Thank you Pete Delaney!)
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 12:04:47 -0800
Subject: Question Re Theft & Registry
Hello Listers,
I'm a new owner of a 59 BN6 and have followed the discussions in this group
with interest for the last couple of weeks, especially the Registry.
I would like to know if the Healey is particularly the target of theft and
if a car is stolen can its record in the Registry be tagged as such, so, if
at some future point a new owner puts it in the Registry, it'll show up as
stolen.
Thanks in advance.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA, USA
59 BN6
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 12:08:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Car No. Plate Stamping
Hi Team,
Recently bought another Bugeye and need to get a blank Car No. plate stamped
with the correct car number which I have now received from the British Motor
Industry Heritage Trust. I wonder if there is any common wisdom on who does
the best job of stamping these Car No. plates. You know, correct font, type
size, character spacing, etc.
Would appreciate suggestions. Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2
2 x AN5 Just bought another 12/27/00 - Yeah, baby!
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 15:43:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
One doesn't have to go to Canada for this. We get the same situation
in NE Penna.
Ed A
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Lupynec <mlupynec@globalserve.net>
To: Paul Cleary <pcleary@ican.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, January 20, 2001 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
>
>It's Robert who was looking for input, but I agree with you. Up
>here in the SPRING it's the aggressive temperature variations
>combined with big swings in relative humidity that will cause the
>most condensation. You can even sometimes see wet floors in
>properly insulated hairplane hangars.
>
>The concept is simple - an LBC metal surface cooler than the
>surrounding air. The how and why and associated antidotes are a
>little more complex. (And the big hollow box sill innard sections
>on Etypes are particularly susceptible).
>
>Mike L.
>60A,67E,59Bug
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Paul Cleary <pcleary@ican.net>
>To: Michael Lupynec <mlupynec@globalserve.net>
>Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: January 20, 2001 2:25 PM
>Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
>
>
>> Hi Mike,
>>
>> I live in Ontario, and have had my car stored for nearly 3 years
>in an
>> unheated garage. My advice is to make sure that you keep the
>doors to the
>> garage closed as much as possible, due to the temp differences
>between
>> inside and outside, especially in the spring.
>>
>> I also keep my car covered but I allow air to circulate
>underneath the car.
>> I have had no problems. I owned a car prior to the Healey and
>that was
>> stored the same way for 9 years, and again no problem.
>>
>> I had a friend that had same situation but he had his tumble
>dryer venting
>> out in the garage and he had major problems because the warm air
>was
>> settling on his car.
>>
>> Hope this helps...
>>
>>
>> Paul Cleary
>> BJ8
>> ----- Original Message -----
>>
>>
>> From: Michael Lupynec <mlupynec@globalserve.net>
>> To: <WmsRbt@aol.com>; <>
>> Cc: <DelaneySF@aol.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, January 20, 2001 1:10 PM
>> Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
>>
>>
>> >
>> > Up here in cold canada, I keep the garage at 35 F for winter
>and
>> > spring storage. Constant temperature is more unimportant than
>how
>> > high. In Houston I have seen air conditioned garages spit out
>a
>> > car that immediately condenses. You are right - inside panels,
>> > especially poorly protected, over time, will suffer. A
>breathing
>> > cover also helps.
>> >
>> > My friend's series 3 roadster jag has been stored in an
>unheated
>> > garage. After 10 years the car has sagged and closed the door
>gaps
>> > without moving one foot.
>> >
>> > Mike L.
>> > 60A,67E,59Bug
>> >
>> > ----- Original Message -----
>> > From: <WmsRbt@aol.com>
>> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> > Cc: <DelaneySF@aol.com>
>> > Sent: January 20, 2001 12:03 PM
>> > Subject: Condensation on Car
>> >
>> >
>> > >
>> > > Hi all,
>> > >
>> > > I'm a newbie owner, just got my hands on my first Healey, a
>BJ8,
>> > that I had
>> > > restored to V,VG driver status by someone who dit the work
>> > faster (1 1/2
>> > > years vs. at least 25 years) than I could have, and much
>better
>> > to boot.
>> > > Being a newbie I get at least 50 basic questions before I
>get
>> > flamed, right?
>> > >
>> > > Well, here's my first request for feedback on a problem.
>> > (Incidently, I
>> > > searched the list and I didn't find this discussed. I've
>done a
>> > search on
>> > > other questions I had, and found the list to be tremendous
>> > resource. You
>> > > guys are much to be thanked for sharing your knowledge about
>> > these great
>> > > cars. stroke stroke)
>> > >
>> > > I have my car stored under a cover in my garage, which is
>not
>> > air-conditioned
>> > > of course. Today, I went out to the garage to tinker,
>pamper,
>> > etc. I
>> > > removed the cover and resumed spiritual bonding with my car.
>To
>> > my dismay, I
>> > > discovered that condensation had formed on metal surfaces.
>I
>> > first noticed
>> > > it on the wire wheels, but on further inspection I find
>> > condensation on the
>> > > frame, sofit sides of body panels, exhaust system and the
>like.
>> > Today is
>> > > damp and rainy. Last night was not particularly cold, but
>since
>> > the relative
>> > > humity is close to 100 percent and the car is cool
>(literally,
>> > in this
>> > > context), the moisture in the air is apparently condensing
>on
>> > the first cold
>> > > surface it contacts as the air flows up from around the
>skirt of
>> > the cover.
>> > > I even saw evidence where moisture had run down the side of
>the
>> > car on
>> > > previous occasions and dried, so this has been going on for
>a
>> > while.
>> > >
>> > > I can imagine all kinds of problems that this can cause;
>> > condensation in
>> > > half-filled gas tanks, moisture in distributor, the infamous
>> > condensation in
>> > > fuel gauges, corrosion in exhaust system, and on and on.
>> > Needless to say, I
>> > > have invested too much in my Healey to have it sitting under
>a
>> > cover, bathed
>> > > in moisture.
>> > >
>> > > I'm curious if anyone has encountered this problem and what
>you
>> > did. I'm
>> > > open to suggestions, even so far as to AC the garage. You
>may
>> > respond off
>> > > list if you like, and thanks in advance to all.
>> > >
>> > > Robert Williams
>> > > 66 BJ8 (Thank you Pete Delaney!)
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 16:56:28 EST
Subject: 100-6 engine, Transmission, and overdrive
I received this post through the Bluegrass Club website. If you are
interested please
contact the seller direct at: <A
HREF="mailto:jamelang@mail.cafes.net";>jamelang@mail.cafes.net</A> No
financial
interest, knowledge, warranty express or implied, objects in mirror are
closer than they appear, yadda, yadda, yadda etc etc.....
I have a 58 100-6 engine, Transmission, and overdrive that I would like to
find a good home for. It would make a good engine for a restoration or for
a spare.
Jerry W. Amelang
607 Cumberland Ave.
Tullahoma, TN 37388
jamelang@cafes.net
Thank you,
James Werner
Bluegrass Austin Healey Club
Louisville, KY
Visit our web site at BluegrassClub.com
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 17:00:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Question Re Theft & Registry
Hi, Steve -
I will get to your question about theft in just a moment, but first......
There are no rules that apply across the board to all model registries. The
keeper of each registry is free to collect the information that he thinks is
worth collecting and preserving and to store the data in any format he/she
chooses. When someone else takes over the registry, they are free to change
it as they desire. For instance, when I took over the existing BJ8 model
registry, it consisted of a stack of about 1200 3 x 5 cards that recorded
only the VIN of the car with the rest of the information concerning the
details of the owner (name, address, phone, spouse's name, etc.). This was
supplemented by a few computer printouts, but not the electronic database
itself since that was held by the AHCA. I changed the format to an Excel
file. My experience was that there were additional details of each car that
could be helpful to record, as well as which provided some interesting
insights into the original production of the cars (body number, engine
number, colors, BMIHT data, etc.). Further, since the primary value of the
registry to a typical owner seems to be in helping trace ownership history,
I started keeping a running ownership history on each car and documenting as
much of its previous history as was still available. The other registries
may or may not do any of that.
As to theft: It is my personal belief that the days when Healeys were
common targets for theft are long gone. They are too relatively rare and
thinly distributed geographically, but at the same time not extremely
valuable either. Therefore, I do not think they are serious targets for
theft by professionals, who would more likely go after a modern SUV -- they
are easier to find, parts are worth more and it would be easier to dispose
of, either whole or in part. Any Healey stolen today is probably a target
of opportunity by a joyrider, and I am more concerned that my car will be
vandalized when I take it out and park it somewhere for dinner than I am
that it will be stolen.
If you once owned a BJ8 that had been stolen from you, and were able to tell
me the VIN of the car, I would include it in the registry with the note that
you said it had been stolen. I try to use every source to identify
existing cars, so occasionally I search the internet for them. Suppose I
came across the car being sold by a dealer or at auction. I would let you
know and tell you where I found the information. You could take it from
there. Suppose an individual contacted me claiming to own the car. I would
both let them know that someone else claimed the car was stolen, and would
let you know that the car had apparently surfaced. However, I would NOT
give either one of you any personal information about the other unless you
both first agreed I could do so. Just the possibility that a car might
have been stolen at sometime in its dim, dark past has already caused at
least one owner who is on the list to tell me he would not give me the VIN
of his car even though he held a clear title. Fortunately for the BJ8
community, there are 3,722 others who aren't so sensitive. I would like
for the registry to be a valuable service in any way that it can, but the
privacy of the data has to be respected otherwise there are a lot of people
who won't participate.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: john@jharper.demon.co.uk <john@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Saturday, January 20, 2001 3:27 PM
Subject: Question Re Theft & Registry
>
>Hello Listers,
>I'm a new owner of a 59 BN6 and have followed the discussions in this group
>with interest for the last couple of weeks, especially the Registry.
>
>I would like to know if the Healey is particularly the target of theft and
>if a car is stolen can its record in the Registry be tagged as such, so, if
>at some future point a new owner puts it in the Registry, it'll show up as
>stolen.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>--
>Steve Gerow
>Pasadena CA, USA
>59 BN6
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 17:07:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Car No. Plate Stamping
Reid -
I had a new plate stamped for my BJ8 by Clarke Spares and Restorations
because my old one was pretty beat up around the screw holes and had the
black paint flaking off. I sent the new blank and the old plate to Todd
Clarke, and the new one came back stamped exactly like the original in every
way. I was very happy with the result.
Clarke Spares and Restorations
90 West Swamp Road
Doylestown, PA 18901
(215) 348-0595
Fax: (215) 348-4160
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Reid Trummel <AHCUSA@excite.com>
To: spridgets@autox.team.net <spridgets@autox.team.net>;
healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, January 20, 2001 3:33 PM
Subject: Car No. Plate Stamping
>
>Hi Team,
>
>Recently bought another Bugeye and need to get a blank Car No. plate
stamped
>with the correct car number which I have now received from the British
Motor
>Industry Heritage Trust. I wonder if there is any common wisdom on who
does
>the best job of stamping these Car No. plates. You know, correct font,
type
>size, character spacing, etc.
>
>Would appreciate suggestions. Thanks in advance.
>
>Cheers,
>Reid Trummel
>Tampa, Florida
>2 x BN2
>2 x AN5 Just bought another 12/27/00 - Yeah, baby!
>http://www.healey.org
>http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
>
>
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________________
>Send a cool gift with your E-Card
>http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 18:15:43 -0600
Subject: Re: Car No. Plate Stamping
<<First is Geoff Healey's last book, >>
YEP. Best.
In your case, Reid, you will also have to provide "documention". BMIHT Cert
copy, Title copy, etc..
Todd just needs to CHA.
Cheers..........
Ed
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 19:41:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Hundred Registry
Hello all,
I received this note from Bill Wood today. I have copied it in full. I will
be in touch with him to further clarify things.
Rich Chrysler
He wrote:
Hi Rich,
I have been monitoring the comments of the 100 Registry for the
last few days, but do not know how to get into the conversation
with the net.
I have been somewhat active with Edie, but have not received
a promised up-date since she moved to her new home.
Please relate to the list that I have continued with the Register
to this date centering on the historical aspect rather than the
register of owners and I intend to continue to do so.
Regards,
Bill Wood
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 19:24:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Question Re Theft & Registry
Bingo.....one of the potential benefits of a registry. Also previously
scrapped, written off, or counterfeit copies of cars, etc. showing up
again.
Rich Chrysler
>
> Hello Listers,
> I'm a new owner of a 59 BN6 and have followed the discussions in this
group
> with interest for the last couple of weeks, especially the Registry.
>
> I would like to know if the Healey is particularly the target of theft and
> if a car is stolen can its record in the Registry be tagged as such, so,
if
> at some future point a new owner puts it in the Registry, it'll show up as
> stolen.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA, USA
> 59 BN6
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 19:45:18 EST
Subject: Re: Car No. Plate Stamping
justbrits@mediaone.net writes:
> <<First is Geoff Healey's last book, >>
> <YEP. Best.>
>
> I ordered a copy from AHCUSA, somehow missed buying one when they first
> came out and have never read it.
>
> Interesting tidbit: Bic Healey was our guest a few years ago. Bic
> graciously signed everything presented to him by enthusiasts over the
> course of his stay. (I had him sign the Bonneville print.) He politely
> refused to sign that book, the only thing he refused to do. Seems he felt
>
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
Visit my Bluegrass Austin Healey Club site at bluegrassclub.com
And visit my British Sports Car Club of KY site at britishsportscarclub.com.
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 19:52:12 EST
Subject: Geoff Healey's last book
I'll try this a second time since AOL cut off most of my last sentence!
I ordered a copy from AHCUSA, somehow missed buying one when they first came
out and have never read it.
Interesting tidbit: Bic Healey was our guest a few years ago. Bic graciously
signed everything presented to him by enthusiasts over the course of his
stay. (I had him sign the Bonneville print.) He politely refused to sign that
book, the only thing he refused to do. Seems he felt he was treated unfairly
by the editors who worked on it after Geoff's death.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
Visit my Bluegrass Austin Healey Club site at bluegrassclub.com
And visit my British Sports Car Club of KY site at britishsportscarclub.com.
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 19:19:37 -0800
Subject: Cut Away Distributor cap
I have heard about cut-away distributor caps but don't exactly understand
the purpose or what to cut-away. Any help from the list with answering a
couple of questions would be greatly appreciated.
1. Is the purpose to assist with getting the rotor position aligned with
the correct spark plug so one can accurately set the valves?
2. What exactly does one cut away?
If the top is cut off you would lose the cap contacts, I think.
Thanks in advance
John
'62 BT7 MKII
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 21:01:24 -0800
Subject: Re: the healey story by geoffrey healey
In case Jerry is out of _The Healey Story_, Powell's Books,
www.powells.com
has a used copy listed for around $20 plus shipping. It won't show up
easily if you search for it because they have misspelled Geoff's name
as "Healy".
Happy hunting,
-Roland
(I got mine already)
On Sat, 13 Jan 2001 14:35:29 -0600, Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
wrote:
::
:: this is geoff healey's last book which is now out of print.
::
:: the austin healey club, usa has come into a limited number of this book
:which are now available on a first come, first served basis. the normal
:retail is $39.95, however, we are offering these for $32.50 each plus $5.00
:shipping in the domestic usa. total $37.50
::
:: checks payable to ahc,usa and sent to the attention of jerry wall pobox
:45332 dallas,tx 75245. mastercard or visa is acceptable and can be emailed
:or sent to the prior address.
::
:: if you havent yet ordered your copy of the bonneville salt flats video with
:the ah assault on the class d records in the 50's -- we've still got a few
:left at $19 postpaid. these are three castrol produced 16mm films converted
:into one vhs tape approximately 1 hour long. it's hard to imagine any healey
:enthusiast who would not want their own copy.
::
:: happy healeying !!!
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 21:52:05 -0800
Subject: Slipping Overdrive?
Hello Listers,
Please forgive me if these are newbie questions--I'm well under the
50-limit.
I just took delivery of my BN6 today and have experienced two problems for
which I'd like to get input on what to do:
1) Occasional bad slipping in any forward gear(not reverse) which seems to
be somehow related to the overdrive. This is accompanied by a fairly loud
whirring noise. It's almost like a badly slipping clutch where the car will
hardly move forward. The first time I accidentally induced it by flipping
the overdrive switch to "overdrive". The second time it just occurred when I
was rounding a corner (OD switch on Normal). Both times I turned the
ignition off, restarted the car and it ran fine with no slipping. At no time
have I encountered a slipping clutch otherwise.
2) Car pops out of gear in 4th when backing off or driving steadily on the
level. It stays in gear under acceleration.
Thank you in advance for your help.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From "Michael A. Flaws" <flaws at ibm.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 00:15:48 -0600
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
Robert,
Congrats on your new Healey.
I've been following your thread about condensation. Everyone's observations and
comments are correct: warm humid air on any cold metal will condense, and Mike
L.
has the correct solution: constant temperature. Yet nobody yet has identified
the
main culprit, which is: the big mass of concrete, the garage floor. There in
lies the challenge, and it doesn't matter whether the garage is heated or air
conditioned, or from what part of the country you are located...a temperature
differential will produce condensation because that mass of concrete will act
like a big ice cube, and will stay cool for a long time.
The challenge is controlling it. A dirt floor, dry shelter is a good
environment
from the condensation aspect. An uninsulated frame garage will temperature
stabilize faster than an insulated one. I've dissevered that one first hand. I
have a 30'X 46' insulated, heated, frame garage. It's well enough insulated
that
almost all summer it will feel like it's air conditioned because that mass of
concrete is like a cold sink. If there is a temperature spike with a bit of
humidity, my floor will sweat!! A frame garage with a concrete floor is
much
better than a brick or block garage with a concrete floor where I've actually
seen condensation just running down the walls!
The answer is constant temperature, the simple but not so easy trick is being
able to control the temperature of the garage floor relative to the air
temperature.
Not everyone is fortunate enough to be able to do what is necessary to control
their garage environment. Yet there are some basic common sense and storage
techniques that work, that I have done, and do employ. It really doesn't take
too long for cold metal to adjust to warm air. What really makes the metal
sweat
is the constant supply of cold coming from the cold floor. Placing a barrier
such as cardboard under you car will block the majority of the cold air. I
also
read in a car mag, to lay newspaper in, around, and over your engine block. It
works, the newspaper will absorb allot of moisture, meaning that it is drawing
the moisture away from your engine block and electrical components etc., helping
it evaporate faster until the temperatures equalize. Car covers were mentioned.
The better the cover breaths, the less it will contribute to the problem.
The cardboard and newspaper may sound hokey, but they don't just help a little,
they help allot!!...and it's allot cheaper than a humidity controlled cocoon, or
insulating and heating your garage.
Michael Flaws
WmsRbt@aol.com wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I'm a newbie owner, just got my hands on my first Healey, a BJ8, that I had
> restored to V,VG driver status by someone who dit the work faster (1 1/2
> years vs. at least 25 years) than I could have, and much better to boot.
> Being a newbie I get at least 50 basic questions before I get flamed, right?
>
> Well, here's my first request for feedback on a problem. (Incidently, I
> searched the list and I didn't find this discussed. I've done a search on
> other questions I had, and found the list to be tremendous resource. You
> guys are much to be thanked for sharing your knowledge about these great
> cars. stroke stroke)
>
> I have my car stored under a cover in my garage, which is not air-conditioned
> of course. Today, I went out to the garage to tinker, pamper, etc. I
> removed the cover and resumed spiritual bonding with my car. To my dismay, I
> discovered that condensation had formed on metal surfaces. I first noticed
> it on the wire wheels, but on further inspection I find condensation on the
> frame, sofit sides of body panels, exhaust system and the like. Today is
> damp and rainy. Last night was not particularly cold, but since the relative
> humity is close to 100 percent and the car is cool (literally, in this
> context), the moisture in the air is apparently condensing on the first cold
> surface it contacts as the air flows up from around the skirt of the cover.
> I even saw evidence where moisture had run down the side of the car on
> previous occasions and dried, so this has been going on for a while.
>
> I can imagine all kinds of problems that this can cause; condensation in
> half-filled gas tanks, moisture in distributor, the infamous condensation in
> fuel gauges, corrosion in exhaust system, and on and on. Needless to say, I
> have invested too much in my Healey to have it sitting under a cover, bathed
> in moisture.
>
> I'm curious if anyone has encountered this problem and what you did. I'm
> open to suggestions, even so far as to AC the garage. You may respond off
> list if you like, and thanks in advance to all.
>
> Robert Williams
> 66 BJ8 (Thank you Pete Delaney!)
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 21:20:55 -0800
Subject: AHX14
Hello All
I have just updated my site with two new articles on AHX14, pre
production Healey #14. The articles cover the history and restoration of
the vehicle. Enjoy
Larry Varley
Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 06:21:03 -0500
Subject: 59 bn6
Hi all:
Did anyone on the list buy a 59 bn6 in southern Delaware over the last few
days? Just curious.
lance
54 bn1
From Flyhihealey at gateway.net
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 07:24:59 EST
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
Affirmative Michael!!.
Excellent advice. Having gone through the winter storage thing myself for
30+ years I wish I would have known these things early on before I realized
my healey was being damaged more as it sat in comfy hibernation for months
than it was being driven in salt spray preservative! The cardboard, the
right cover, KEEP THAT GARAGE DOOR CLOSED! Works for me!
Thanks to all listers for helping us all enjoy and preserve "The Marque
."
Regards from balmy Northeast Ohio,
Warren
67 BJ8
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 09:39:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
Robert et al,
Just to be a little more scientific about the question of condensation on the
metal
of your stored car, the problem that we are dealing with here is the so called
"dew
point". This is the temperature at which air , as it is cooled, becomes
completely
saturated with moisture (100% humidity) and the dissolved moisture begins to
condense.
To explain, when the warm humid air contacts the cold metal it is cooled to
such an
extent that it reaches its dew point and moisture is deposited on the surface
of the
metal.
One solution is to keep the car a little warmer than its surroundings. This can
be
easily achieved by putting a cover over the car and then SAFELY hanging a
lighted 100
watt bulb under the car. Care must be taken to ensure that there is no risk of
fire,
light bulbs get hot, and that the cover essentially forms an enclosure and
reaches
the ground around the car. This measure together with the layer of insulation
between
the concrete floor and the car is very effective.
As to the cost: in our part of the world electricity costs $CDN0.06354 / kWh.
This
means that it will cost about $CDN0.15 per day to avoid condensation.
BTW TR6s are particularly vulnerable to this problem in the area just ahead
of the
trunk lid. Text book case.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
"Michael A. Flaws" wrote:
> Robert,
> Congrats on your new Healey.
> I've been following your thread about condensation. Everyone's observations
>and
> comments are correct: warm humid air on any cold metal will condense, and
>Mike L.
> has the correct solution: constant temperature. Yet nobody yet has identified
>the
> main culprit, which is: the big mass of concrete, the garage floor. There in
> lies the challenge, and it doesn't matter whether the garage is heated or air
> conditioned, or from what part of the country you are located...a temperature
> differential will produce condensation because that mass of concrete will act
> like a big ice cube, and will stay cool for a long time.
> The challenge is controlling it. A dirt floor, dry shelter is a good
>environment
> from the condensation aspect. An uninsulated frame garage will temperature
> stabilize faster than an insulated one. I've dissevered that one first hand.
> I
> have a 30'X 46' insulated, heated, frame garage. It's well enough insulated
>that
> almost all summer it will feel like it's air conditioned because that mass of
> concrete is like a cold sink. If there is a temperature spike with a bit of
> humidity, my floor will sweat!! A frame garage with a concrete floor is
>much
> better than a brick or block garage with a concrete floor where I've actually
> seen condensation just running down the walls!
> The answer is constant temperature, the simple but not so easy trick is being
> able to control the temperature of the garage floor relative to the air
> temperature.
> Not everyone is fortunate enough to be able to do what is necessary to control
> their garage environment. Yet there are some basic common sense and storage
> techniques that work, that I have done, and do employ. It really doesn't take
> too long for cold metal to adjust to warm air. What really makes the metal
>sweat
> is the constant supply of cold coming from the cold floor. Placing a barrier
> such as cardboard under you car will block the majority of the cold air. I
>also
> read in a car mag, to lay newspaper in, around, and over your engine block.
>It
> works, the newspaper will absorb allot of moisture, meaning that it is
>drawing
> the moisture away from your engine block and electrical components etc.,
>helping
> it evaporate faster until the temperatures equalize. Car covers were
>mentioned.
> The better the cover breaths, the less it will contribute to the problem.
> The cardboard and newspaper may sound hokey, but they don't just help a
>little,
> they help allot!!...and it's allot cheaper than a humidity controlled cocoon,
>or
> insulating and heating your garage.
> Michael Flaws
>
> WmsRbt@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I'm a newbie owner, just got my hands on my first Healey, a BJ8, that I had
> > restored to V,VG driver status by someone who dit the work faster (1 1/2
> > years vs. at least 25 years) than I could have, and much better to boot.
> > Being a newbie I get at least 50 basic questions before I get flamed, right?
> >
> > Well, here's my first request for feedback on a problem. (Incidently, I
> > searched the list and I didn't find this discussed. I've done a search on
> > other questions I had, and found the list to be tremendous resource. You
> > guys are much to be thanked for sharing your knowledge about these great
> > cars. stroke stroke)
> >
> > I have my car stored under a cover in my garage, which is not
>air-conditioned
> > of course. Today, I went out to the garage to tinker, pamper, etc. I
> > removed the cover and resumed spiritual bonding with my car. To my dismay,
>I
> > discovered that condensation had formed on metal surfaces. I first noticed
> > it on the wire wheels, but on further inspection I find condensation on the
> > frame, sofit sides of body panels, exhaust system and the like. Today is
> > damp and rainy. Last night was not particularly cold, but since the
>relative
> > humity is close to 100 percent and the car is cool (literally, in this
> > context), the moisture in the air is apparently condensing on the first cold
> > surface it contacts as the air flows up from around the skirt of the cover.
> > I even saw evidence where moisture had run down the side of the car on
> > previous occasions and dried, so this has been going on for a while.
> >
> > I can imagine all kinds of problems that this can cause; condensation in
> > half-filled gas tanks, moisture in distributor, the infamous condensation in
> > fuel gauges, corrosion in exhaust system, and on and on. Needless to say, I
> > have invested too much in my Healey to have it sitting under a cover, bathed
> > in moisture.
> >
> > I'm curious if anyone has encountered this problem and what you did. I'm
> > open to suggestions, even so far as to AC the garage. You may respond off
> > list if you like, and thanks in advance to all.
> >
> > Robert Williams
> > 66 BJ8 (Thank you Pete Delaney!)
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 10:35:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
Just a little more on garage floors. Michael is right and that's
why occasionally you will see a million dollar epoxy coated
hairplane hangar floor sweat (a 100% vapor barrier). My last LBC
concrete slab was uncoated and slightly rough and it never sweated
sort of like his dirt floor example. But if pure dirt floors are
not completely bone dry they could be a wonderful and continuous
source of surrounding ground moisture.
Building construction science re condensation is still in
development. When I was looking at a XK120 in a barn, the farmer
told me that Canuck old barns fall apart quicker after
abandonment. His take - cow storage generates enough heat in
winter to keep the stone foundations from shifting and cracking.
Not quite as good as the farmer who drove up to his two story very
long turkey barn at nite. His headlamps thru the siding panicked
the mature turkeys towards one end of the second floor. Well when
they got to the end and stopped, it was equivalent to a Sherman
tank slamming on the brakes and the whole building did a
rotational 90 degree collapse.
I participated in the rewriting of Canadian farm building codes to
increase longitudinal bracing.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael A. Flaws <flaws@ibm.net>
To: <WmsRbt@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: January 21, 2001 1:15 AM
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
>
> Robert,
> Congrats on your new Healey.
> I've been following your thread about condensation. Everyone's
observations and
> comments are correct: warm humid air on any cold metal will
condense, and Mike L.
> has the correct solution: constant temperature. Yet nobody yet
has identified the
> main culprit, which is: the big mass of concrete, the garage
floor. There in
> lies the challenge, and it doesn't matter whether the garage is
heated or air
> conditioned, or from what part of the country you are
located...a temperature
> differential will produce condensation because that mass of
concrete will act
> like a big ice cube, and will stay cool for a long time.
> The challenge is controlling it. A dirt floor, dry shelter is a
good environment
> from the condensation aspect. An uninsulated frame garage will
temperature
> stabilize faster than an insulated one. I've dissevered that
one first hand. I
> have a 30'X 46' insulated, heated, frame garage. It's well
enough insulated that
> almost all summer it will feel like it's air conditioned because
that mass of
> concrete is like a cold sink. If there is a temperature spike
with a bit of
> humidity, my floor will sweat!! A frame garage with a
concrete floor is much
> better than a brick or block garage with a concrete floor where
I've actually
> seen condensation just running down the walls!
> The answer is constant temperature, the simple but not so easy
trick is being
> able to control the temperature of the garage floor relative to
the air
> temperature.
> Not everyone is fortunate enough to be able to do what is
necessary to control
> their garage environment. Yet there are some basic common sense
and storage
> techniques that work, that I have done, and do employ. It
really doesn't take
> too long for cold metal to adjust to warm air. What really
makes the metal sweat
> is the constant supply of cold coming from the cold floor.
Placing a barrier
> such as cardboard under you car will block the majority of the
cold air. I also
> read in a car mag, to lay newspaper in, around, and over your
engine block. It
> works, the newspaper will absorb allot of moisture, meaning
that it is drawing
> the moisture away from your engine block and electrical
components etc., helping
> it evaporate faster until the temperatures equalize. Car covers
were mentioned.
> The better the cover breaths, the less it will contribute to the
problem.
> The cardboard and newspaper may sound hokey, but they don't
just help a little,
> they help allot!!...and it's allot cheaper than a humidity
controlled cocoon, or
> insulating and heating your garage.
> Michael Flaws
>
> WmsRbt@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I'm a newbie owner, just got my hands on my first Healey, a
BJ8, that I had
> > restored to V,VG driver status by someone who dit the work
faster (1 1/2
> > years vs. at least 25 years) than I could have, and much
better to boot.
> > Being a newbie I get at least 50 basic questions before I get
flamed, right?
> >
> > Well, here's my first request for feedback on a problem.
(Incidently, I
> > searched the list and I didn't find this discussed. I've done
a search on
> > other questions I had, and found the list to be tremendous
resource. You
> > guys are much to be thanked for sharing your knowledge about
these great
> > cars. stroke stroke)
> >
> > I have my car stored under a cover in my garage, which is not
air-conditioned
> > of course. Today, I went out to the garage to tinker, pamper,
etc. I
> > removed the cover and resumed spiritual bonding with my car.
To my dismay, I
> > discovered that condensation had formed on metal surfaces. I
first noticed
> > it on the wire wheels, but on further inspection I find
condensation on the
> > frame, sofit sides of body panels, exhaust system and the
like. Today is
> > damp and rainy. Last night was not particularly cold, but
since the relative
> > humity is close to 100 percent and the car is cool (literally,
in this
> > context), the moisture in the air is apparently condensing on
the first cold
> > surface it contacts as the air flows up from around the skirt
of the cover.
> > I even saw evidence where moisture had run down the side of
the car on
> > previous occasions and dried, so this has been going on for a
while.
> >
> > I can imagine all kinds of problems that this can cause;
condensation in
> > half-filled gas tanks, moisture in distributor, the infamous
condensation in
> > fuel gauges, corrosion in exhaust system, and on and on.
Needless to say, I
> > have invested too much in my Healey to have it sitting under a
cover, bathed
> > in moisture.
> >
> > I'm curious if anyone has encountered this problem and what
you did. I'm
> > open to suggestions, even so far as to AC the garage. You may
respond off
> > list if you like, and thanks in advance to all.
> >
> > Robert Williams
> > 66 BJ8 (Thank you Pete Delaney!)
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 10:43:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
Last note (maybe), when restoring or repairing any body shell,
treatment of inside panel surfaces is deathly important. For eg,
on the inaccessible and unpainted Etype structural sills this
means a few holes and spraying in anti rust oil every few years.
Mike L
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Krazy Kiwi <magicare@home.com>
Cc: <WmsRbt@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: January 21, 2001 9:39 AM
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
>
> Robert et al,
>
> Just to be a little more scientific about the question of
condensation on the metal
> of your stored car, the problem that we are dealing with here is
the so called "dew
> point". This is the temperature at which air , as it is cooled,
becomes completely
> saturated with moisture (100% humidity) and the dissolved
moisture begins to
> condense.
> To explain, when the warm humid air contacts the cold metal it
is cooled to such an
> extent that it reaches its dew point and moisture is deposited
on the surface of the
> metal.
> One solution is to keep the car a little warmer than its
surroundings. This can be
> easily achieved by putting a cover over the car and then SAFELY
hanging a lighted 100
> watt bulb under the car. Care must be taken to ensure that there
is no risk of fire,
> light bulbs get hot, and that the cover essentially forms an
enclosure and reaches
> the ground around the car. This measure together with the layer
of insulation between
> the concrete floor and the car is very effective.
> As to the cost: in our part of the world electricity costs
$CDN0.06354 / kWh. This
> means that it will cost about $CDN0.15 per day to avoid
condensation.
>
> BTW TR6s are particularly vulnerable to this problem in the
area just ahead of the
> trunk lid. Text book case.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
>
>
>
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
> "Michael A. Flaws" wrote:
>
> > Robert,
> > Congrats on your new Healey.
> > I've been following your thread about condensation.
Everyone's observations and
> > comments are correct: warm humid air on any cold metal will
condense, and Mike L.
> > has the correct solution: constant temperature. Yet nobody yet
has identified the
> > main culprit, which is: the big mass of concrete, the garage
floor. There in
> > lies the challenge, and it doesn't matter whether the garage
is heated or air
> > conditioned, or from what part of the country you are
located...a temperature
> > differential will produce condensation because that mass of
concrete will act
> > like a big ice cube, and will stay cool for a long time.
> > The challenge is controlling it. A dirt floor, dry shelter is
a good environment
> > from the condensation aspect. An uninsulated frame garage will
temperature
> > stabilize faster than an insulated one. I've dissevered that
one first hand. I
> > have a 30'X 46' insulated, heated, frame garage. It's well
enough insulated that
> > almost all summer it will feel like it's air conditioned
because that mass of
> > concrete is like a cold sink. If there is a temperature spike
with a bit of
> > humidity, my floor will sweat!! A frame garage with a
concrete floor is much
> > better than a brick or block garage with a concrete floor
where I've actually
> > seen condensation just running down the walls!
> > The answer is constant temperature, the simple but not so
easy trick is being
> > able to control the temperature of the garage floor relative
to the air
> > temperature.
> > Not everyone is fortunate enough to be able to do what is
necessary to control
> > their garage environment. Yet there are some basic common
sense and storage
> > techniques that work, that I have done, and do employ. It
really doesn't take
> > too long for cold metal to adjust to warm air. What really
makes the metal sweat
> > is the constant supply of cold coming from the cold floor.
Placing a barrier
> > such as cardboard under you car will block the majority of
the cold air. I also
> > read in a car mag, to lay newspaper in, around, and over your
engine block. It
> > works, the newspaper will absorb allot of moisture, meaning
that it is drawing
> > the moisture away from your engine block and electrical
components etc., helping
> > it evaporate faster until the temperatures equalize. Car
covers were mentioned.
> > The better the cover breaths, the less it will contribute to
the problem.
> > The cardboard and newspaper may sound hokey, but they don't
just help a little,
> > they help allot!!...and it's allot cheaper than a humidity
controlled cocoon, or
> > insulating and heating your garage.
> > Michael Flaws
> >
> > WmsRbt@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > I'm a newbie owner, just got my hands on my first Healey, a
BJ8, that I had
> > > restored to V,VG driver status by someone who dit the work
faster (1 1/2
> > > years vs. at least 25 years) than I could have, and much
better to boot.
> > > Being a newbie I get at least 50 basic questions before I
get flamed, right?
> > >
> > > Well, here's my first request for feedback on a problem.
(Incidently, I
> > > searched the list and I didn't find this discussed. I've
done a search on
> > > other questions I had, and found the list to be tremendous
resource. You
> > > guys are much to be thanked for sharing your knowledge about
these great
> > > cars. stroke stroke)
> > >
> > > I have my car stored under a cover in my garage, which is
not air-conditioned
> > > of course. Today, I went out to the garage to tinker,
pamper, etc. I
> > > removed the cover and resumed spiritual bonding with my car.
To my dismay, I
> > > discovered that condensation had formed on metal surfaces.
I first noticed
> > > it on the wire wheels, but on further inspection I find
condensation on the
> > > frame, sofit sides of body panels, exhaust system and the
like. Today is
> > > damp and rainy. Last night was not particularly cold, but
since the relative
> > > humity is close to 100 percent and the car is cool
(literally, in this
> > > context), the moisture in the air is apparently condensing
on the first cold
> > > surface it contacts as the air flows up from around the
skirt of the cover.
> > > I even saw evidence where moisture had run down the side of
the car on
> > > previous occasions and dried, so this has been going on for
a while.
> > >
> > > I can imagine all kinds of problems that this can cause;
condensation in
> > > half-filled gas tanks, moisture in distributor, the infamous
condensation in
> > > fuel gauges, corrosion in exhaust system, and on and on.
Needless to say, I
> > > have invested too much in my Healey to have it sitting under
a cover, bathed
> > > in moisture.
> > >
> > > I'm curious if anyone has encountered this problem and what
you did. I'm
> > > open to suggestions, even so far as to AC the garage. You
may respond off
> > > list if you like, and thanks in advance to all.
> > >
> > > Robert Williams
> > > 66 BJ8 (Thank you Pete Delaney!)
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 11:29:44 -0500
Subject: Steering Wheel
Anyone change a steering wheel lately on a BJ8? How difficult is it, and
what are the dangers of doing harm to the signal light unit when changing
it?
appreciate any advice.
Regards
Tom
From Barry J Hammel <BlueSky at execpc.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 10:35:20 -0600
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
A couple of thoughts from a lurker in Milwaukee, Wisconsin that just purchased a
BJ7 locally before xmas. Car has been in heated storage for last 20 years - a
nice Sunday driver, not a show car. Car is temporarily in un-heated garage.
And
I understand the condensation problem - Milwaukee has volatile weather ---
temperature changes with humidity.
1. If you do use temporary heat in unheated-garage, be aware that many heat
sources, e.g., the jet-type heaters, produce several byproducts, one of which is
WATER VAPOR! Vented heaters are hightly recommended.
2. In Wisconsin it not uncommon to see hay stored in long plastic tubes. One
individual from a different listsev stored his car in one of these. Can be
purchased from farm supply stores. In very dry weather, "drove his car into
the
plastic tube. Put kitty litter in bottom to absorb moisture that still
remained. Sealed it at both ends. Stored car outside. Claims it works.
I would imagine if you did a very good job of drying out car and air within the
tube and used something better than kitty litter to absorb. It is worth
investigating.
3. Another individual from whom I bought my '68 Mustang convertible, use to
spray the underside areas with transmission fluid every fall.
Cheers, Barry
'63 BJ7 - just waiting for spring
'61 TR3 - might get a bit less use this spring
'59 TR3 - still in boxes, will surely NOT see spring
'83 Van Diemen FF - another xmas present - hopes to see Blackhawk Farms road
racing this spring
'68 Mustang convertible - would make a great tow car for the Van Diemen
(Healey
can't quite tow it)
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 12:20:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel
Hi Tom,
Removal of the "Horn-Push and Directional Indicator Switch" is described
clearly in section N.30 of your Workshop Manual. It must be removed to
replace the steering wheel.
Removal of the steering wheel is in section K.4.
This is a R.T.M. repair however final alignment of the Horn-Push and
Directional Indicator Switch is a little tricky as it tends to turn as the
olive nut on the bottom of the column is tightened. It usually turns about
1/6 th of a turn clockwise so set it up that much to the left and it should
be vertical when your have tightened the nut.
B.T.W. the olive on the bottom of the stator tube is very special in that it
is a "split olive". A regular plumbing olive will work but is very difficult
to remove next time.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
tom felts wrote:
> Anyone change a steering wheel lately on a BJ8? How difficult is it, and
> what are the dangers of doing harm to the signal light unit when changing
> it?
>
> appreciate any advice.
>
> Regards
> Tom
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 13:41:04 EST
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
In a message dated 1/20/01 10:20:24 PM, flaws@ibm.net writes:
<< the big mass of concrete, the garage floor. There in
lies the challenge, and it doesn't matter whether the garage is heated or air
conditioned, or from what part of the country you are located...a temperature
differential will produce condensation because that mass of concrete will act
like a big ice cube, and will stay cool for a long time. >>
Thanks for those notes -- Does anyone have any experience as to whether a
good epoxy paint or tile over a concrete floor will alter the behaviors?
Cheers
Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 14:01:51 EST
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel
In a message dated 1/21/01 8:04:47 AM, tfelts@prodigy.net writes:
<< Anyone change a steering wheel lately on a BJ8? How difficult is it, and
what are the dangers of doing harm to the signal light unit when changing
it?
appreciate any advice.
Regards
Tom >>
Tom -- if you're thinking about doing it today, you might consider instead
waiting until someone can refer you to the archives articles on this topic (I
don't know how to access them) -- It's been discussed in detail. It isn't
difficult, but you don't want to attempt it before getting detailed
instructions, if you decide to detach the trafficator from the wires.
However, if the trafficator works well and you don't want to mess with it,
there is an easier way.
This method is to pull the whole trafficator and wire harness out. But, to
do this, make sure you've arranged to be able to pull the harness back down
through the column again.
First, check the horn and turn signals to make sure they're working. You
wouldn't want to find at the end that they aren't, and not be sure if they
were broken, or you messed them up. Then, detach the four wires from the
main harness up behind the grille. Line up the other three behind it and
wrap them with electrical tape so they can be slid back up the steering
colomn without binding. Tie a sturdy cord or mechanics wire (long enough to
extend all the way up the steering column) to the longest bullet connector).
Then loosen the three set screws just behind the steering wheel and pull the
entire trafficator up out of the hub and pull it with its wire harness all
the way up and out of the steering column, leaving the string or wire
extending down the column.
Then you will be able to remove the circlip around the steering column that
keeps the steering wheel on the column, and slide the steering wheel up and
off the steering column. Put the new wheel on, replace the circlip, tie the
cord back to the wiring harness, pull the wiring harness back down the tube,
push the trafficator in and tighten the set screws, reattach the wires, and
beep the horn and try the turn signals.
Shouldn't take more than two hours, all in.
Good Luck.
Gary Anderson
Cheers
Gary
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 14:11:24 EST
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
> Thanks for those notes -- Does anyone have any experience as to whether a
> good epoxy paint or tile over a concrete floor will alter the behaviors?
>
>
Not sure about that but I can give a tip for when you build your next garage.
Before pouring the floor, inside the perimeter of the footer place a 2"
Styrofoam insulation panel 18" deep, as deep as the footer. Around the
perimeter of the floor I lay a 2' wide insulation panel.
This provides a thermal barrier to keep the cold earth from transferring cold
to the concrete floor. It only costs about $100 for a complete garage and
certainly helps.
That works where I live, colder climates will require more.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
Visit my Bluegrass Austin Healey Club site at bluegrassclub.com
And visit my British Sports Car Club of KY site at britishsportscarclub.com.
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 18:34:23 +0000
Subject: Condensation on Car
I've been following this thread on condensation with much interest,
being into my first 'Healey' winter here in the damp old UK.
I've installed a dehumidifier, and a humidity meter, and am generally
able to keep the humidity down below 75%. But I may not be targetting
the problem in the most effective way.
As I see it (from the perspective of a physics degree MANY decades
ago!), the problem is not moisture in the air, but where it falls. It
will always fall on the coldest surface first, so arguably a cold floor
will take the hit (first), and divert it from the Healey. It seems to me
that, if the Healey is a couple of degrees warmer, it will always be in
contact with air that can hold the moisture without condensing, so the
LBC will stay dry. My first thought was a couple of greenhouse heaters
UNDER the car would do the job, then I had possibly a better idea.
Suppose we pass a low-voltage, moderate (AC or DC) current through the
car itself, via a croc (alligator?) clip at, say front left and rear
right. The car's resistance will only be a fraction of an ohm or so, so
experimentation might suggest 6 volts at 10-20 amps, thus 60-120w of
heating (equivalent to a light bulb in running costs). This puts the
heat where it's most needed - in the metal of the car. Admittedly there
will be high resistance hotter bits and low resistance colder bits, but
arguably the hotter bits will be where they are most needed - in the
joints.
Might be a good idea to disconnect sensitive electronics, in case the
extra volts (especially if it's AC) get where they might do damage.
Has anybody tried this, or anything like it? Might it work?
PS: I can take no responsibility for anybody who tries this and damages
themselves, their garage or (worst of all) their Healey!!
Alan F Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
See the UK national Austin Healey Club at:
www.austin-healey-club.com
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 16:45:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
Gary: I've found that the most important thing for me (unfinished
cracked concrete floor) is a plastic sheet under the car. Epoxy paint
should serve nicely for this if the floor is in good shape. Otherwise,
it's not much better than parking on dirt. The ultimate would be a
heated floor to be a few degrees above the outside ambient and or a
dehumidifier that would follow the storage temps with a constant
Relative Humidity..
Ed A
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, January 21, 2001 1:44 PM
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
>
>In a message dated 1/20/01 10:20:24 PM, flaws@ibm.net writes:
>
><< the big mass of concrete, the garage floor. There in
>lies the challenge, and it doesn't matter whether the garage is
heated or air
>conditioned, or from what part of the country you are located...a
temperature
>differential will produce condensation because that mass of concrete
will act
>like a big ice cube, and will stay cool for a long time. >>
>
>Thanks for those notes -- Does anyone have any experience as to
whether a
>good epoxy paint or tile over a concrete floor will alter the
behaviors?
>
>Cheers
>Gary
From Gold1434 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 16:44:56 EST
Subject: BN2 Idling Problem
Listers:
I had some dried grease in a joint of the throttle linkage causing a
stuck accelerator. This, among other things, made for interesting driving in
the city. I found the problem area, cleaned it and put it back together.
However, as I usually do, I have managed to create another problem while
curing the first. Now the "Beast" idles at 3100 rpm. For the life of me I
can't figure out what I've done. The linkage is free of debris and moves
smoothly. I disconnected the linkage and started the vehicle and it still
runs at 3100. This tells me that the problem is past the linkage itself. I
have backed out all the set screws but no effect.
I know this is a simple problem, but the old noggin' ain't firing on
all four these days. Any ideas?
Steve Goldman
Chesapeake, Va.
56 BN2 "The Beast"
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 17:14:29 EST
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel
In a message dated 01/21/2001 11:04:54 AM Eastern Standard Time,
tfelts@prodigy.net writes:
<< Anyone change a steering wheel lately on a BJ8? How difficult is it, and
what are the dangers of doing harm to the signal light unit when changing
it? >>
Did this a couple of years ago. Really an easy job actually. You may want
to change the wiring harness that leads to the trafficator while you are at
it.
First step is to remove the trafficator and stator tube. (I am assuming you
have the adjustable steering wheel like mine.) Take out the three set screws
in the steering wheel first. This will allow you to pull out the
trafficator. Next, dis-connect the wiring harness wires. This is done
behind the grille. Make sure you mark what wires go to which as the wires
have different color codes at either end of the connections. Go figure!
Once you have the wires loose, then take off the retaining nut and
compression fitting from the steering box. At this point you can remove the
entire assembly, but wait!
You want to tie a length of string to the end of the turn signal wires, so
that when you remove the entire assembly, the string will be inside the
steering column. You will use this for re-assembly since it is really hard
to fish the wires back down the tube. Its much easier to pull these than
push them, that's where the string comes in.
Now that you have everything dis-connected, pull on the trafficator. It
should be free and the length of the stator tube should come out. You may
want an extra pair of hands to help the wires make it through the small hole
at the front of the gear box.
The next step is to remove the retaining ring from the steering column. This
is what keeps the steering wheel from sliding off the splines of the steering
column. Its a really pissy job as this is not a standard retaining clip, but
a piece of spring steel. Push the steering wheel all the way foreward, and
have at it. One cussing fit and a blood blister later, its off!
Once the clip is off, just pull on the steering wheel, it should come off
easily. Make a mark on the splined shaft before hand to make sure you have
the right oreintation of the wheel for the new installation. (i.e. mark
which way is up so your new wheel isn't off center)
That's it! Assembly is the reverse! ;o)
Helpful hints:
1. Put electrical tape over the end connectors of the wires so the are all
held together. When pulling them out or re-installing, the can snag. Taping
them together helps.
2. Make sure you loosen the nut on the new wheel before installing. You will
wonder why this doesn't want to go on if you do not.
3. Mark the splines steering column with the upward oreintation of the
steering wheel spoke. Use a dab of paint or something. Its really easy to
get this wrong with all the splines on the shaft. Being off by a little can
make you unhappy for years.
4. Put a oil pan underneath the steering box when you remove the nut. It
will drain out all its contents when this is removed. The thick oil in there
doesn't like to come off the garage floor.
5. Make a list of what wires go to which. Mark them as well on the car.
Tha's it. Hope it helps.
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 22:41:34 +0000
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
In message <3A6B5022.68D65FF@worldnet.att.net>, Robert Larson <robertlar
son@worldnet.att.net> writes
>Hi Alan,
>
> First a disclaimer.... I have no physics or chemical degree
>so this should not be taken as Gospel.!!
>
> But as I understand it, the forcing of current thru the
>car could be a very bad idea. My old-timers disease does not allow me
>to remember the source but from memory but one of the causes of
>deterioration (rust and decay) is that wherever there is a seam there is
>accumulated foreign material, particularly road salts. These junctions
>when wet sometimes try to act as a battery and the galvanic action
>accelerates the decay partially due too the formation of acids. This
>is worse in the case of dissimilar metals. I.E. steel and aluminum as in
>the early 100's. That is why there are pieces between the external
>parts and the main body. Forcing a current thru these points acts
>similar to charging the battery and the resultant chemical
>reactions... So, if this theory or assumption is correct you
>might be substituting one problem for another.
>
>Bob
>55 BN1
>
I had forgotten about the insulation between the wings and the shroud.
Alternating current might be the preferred solution, so that the reverse
half-cycles sort of cancel the forward half-cycles. Or perhaps it's just
a rotten idea!
Alan F Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
See the UK national Austin Healey Club at:
www.austin-healey-club.com
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 18:09:21 -0500
Subject: Not Healey related San Diego
I will be visiting San Diego area for 2 days 1 Feb.
Any accommodation recommendations would be appreciated.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 15:21:33 -0800
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
At 10:34 AM 1/21/2001, you wrote:
>Suppose we pass a low-voltage, moderate (AC or DC) current through the
>car itself, via a croc (alligator?) clip at, say front left and rear
>right. The car's resistance will only be a fraction of an ohm or so, so
>experimentation might suggest 6 volts at 10-20 amps, thus 60-120w of
>heating (equivalent to a light bulb in running costs). This puts the
>heat where it's most needed - in the metal of the car. Admittedly there
>will be high resistance hotter bits and low resistance colder bits, but
>arguably the hotter bits will be where they are most needed - in the
>joints.
-------------
I never got my EE degree, but I'd be leery of putting 20 amps "across" my
car, even at 6 volts!!
BK
From Gold1434 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 18:32:28 EST
Subject: BN2 Idling Problems Pt 2
I forgot to mention that the set screws can be backed out completely so they
are not touching any of the backstop and it has not effect on the idle.
Thanks Don for the reminder.
Steve Goldman
Chesapeake, Va.
56 BN2 "The Beast"
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 18:29:39 -0600
Subject: Pulling a trailer with your Austin Healey
A little while ago there was a thread about pulling a trailer with an Austin
Healey. Please visit the webpage listed to see what might be the best
trailer to consider.
http://snoozer.bizland.com/index.html
(I can't run the standard "no financial interest, yada, yada, yada, since my
brother-in-law is the proprietor and CEO of the company that makes these)
Don
BN7
God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
difference.
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 19:44:33 EST
Subject: Re: BN2 Idling Problem
Sounds like something is interfering with the throttle shaft and preventing
the butterflys from closing in your carbs. You can verify if they are closed
or not by removing an air cleaner, lifting one piston with your finger, and
looking down the carb throat using a mirror on a wand. My guess is they
aren't closing, in which case you can chase the throttle linkage to look for
a ball post that is hitting somewhere and not letting the linkage fully move
to the closed position.
Roger
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 19:49:57 -0500
Subject: Re: BN2 Idling Problems Pt 2
Hi Steve et al,
One thing that I have found that often causes mysterious high idles is loose
screws in the throttle shaft which locate the butterfly. This can allow the
butterfly to become off-centre touching the bottom of the carb throat before the
top. Tapping on the carb while lightly closing the throttle provides a temporary
fix.
Hope that helps.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Gold1434@aol.com wrote:
> I forgot to mention that the set screws can be backed out completely so they
> are not touching any of the backstop and it has not effect on the idle.
> Thanks Don for the reminder.
>
> Steve Goldman
> Chesapeake, Va.
> 56 BN2 "The Beast"
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 20:00:06 -0500
Subject: Healey logo art-Developments
Hello All, once more; It sounds as though the sensible people with
Macs have had no trouble with the artwork files, but (as I feared
they would) the PC people have. If you will bear with me, I'm getting
advice on this from a writer friend who is an old hand at getting his
PC to open and handle files that originate on the Macintosh.....So
watch this space folks; if I could eliminate that phantom noise in my
engine last summer, I should be able to figure this one out!
Regards, Stephen, BJ8
From Sprite60 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 20:31:15 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 Miss
It seems that there were quite a few failures of the moss rotors. I believe
that this was remedied by them using a new vendor. They were well aware of
the failures with lots of complaints. LARRY
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 20:50:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey logo art-Developments
Hey Steve, that rocker noise was not phantom. It's just lurking.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen Hutchings <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: January 21, 2001 8:00 PM
Subject: Healey logo art-Developments
>
> Hello All, once more; It sounds as though the sensible people
with
> Macs have had no trouble with the artwork files, but (as I
feared
> they would) the PC people have. If you will bear with me, I'm
getting
> advice on this from a writer friend who is an old hand at
getting his
> PC to open and handle files that originate on the
Macintosh.....So
> watch this space folks; if I could eliminate that phantom noise
in my
> engine last summer, I should be able to figure this one out!
> Regards, Stephen, BJ8
From Sprite60 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 20:50:36 EST
Subject: Re: rear hub bearings
They get oiled from the gear oil. Look at the bearings carefully, as you
don't want to take them aparrt again. Better to replace now than later. Do
the bearings, seals, orings and gaskets. Larry
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 17:57:49 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey logo art-Developments MAC vs PC
Being bi-computer I decoded the secret MAC code and posted it here:
http://www.sdhealey.org/HEALEY.eps
enjoy
Brian Mix
'55 AH-100 LeMans
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
Vice-President Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 22:10:05 -0500
Subject: Re;Re; Healey Logo art-Developments
Mike Lupynec wrote ;
"Hey Steve, that rocker noise was not phantom. It's just lurking."
........Great, so between that lurking noise and the deadly rising
condensation, I'm a paranoid, nervous wreck!
Stephen, BJ8
From Sprite60 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 23:46:54 EST
Subject: Re: Tank repair
I have used the epoxy putty from por 15 to repair tanks with much success.
Also seal the tank using the por 15 kit. follow the instructions. Tape the
sending unit access and put the old screws in the holes through the tape.
Only screw them in enough to fill the threads in the tank. This will make
sure they don't get filled with sealer. Make sure you have a good ground on
the sending unit. LARRY
From "Michael A. Flaws" <flaws at ibm.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 00:45:49 -0600
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
Gary,
Mike L. mentioned the observation that million dollar epoxied floor airplane
hangars will sweat. The epoxy will serve as a vapor barrier (preventing
moisture
from underneath) but once again it goes back to basic physics: if the concrete
is cold, then the epoxy coating is cold, when warm moist air hits the cold
epoxy
coating, you will have condensation forming from above (not emanating from
below). In fact an epoxy floor will sweat faster because the condensation has
nowhere to go where as unsealed concrete will actually absorb it like a sponge
until it reaches a saturation point and then the moisture will sit on the
surface! ( It will also hold that damp cold feeling for a long time)
In my last post I did not include another preventative/maintenance measure that
I use and that is fans. I have two ceiling fans that run all year round
circulating the air (up in the winter and down in the summer). When we do get
that temperature inversion and the floor begins to sweat, I place a box fan or
two pointed towards the floor under the cars to help the moisture to evaporate.
Ultimately what is happening is I am force feeding the air over the floor to
speed up the equalization of the air and floor temperature.
Michael Flaws
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 1/20/01 10:20:24 PM, flaws@ibm.net writes:
>
> << the big mass of concrete, the garage floor. There in
> lies the challenge, and it doesn't matter whether the garage is heated or air
> conditioned, or from what part of the country you are located...a temperature
> differential will produce condensation because that mass of concrete will act
> like a big ice cube, and will stay cool for a long time. >>
>
> Thanks for those notes -- Does anyone have any experience as to whether a
> good epoxy paint or tile over a concrete floor will alter the behaviors?
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 06:21:16 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Miss
Larry....so Moss knew they were selling bad parts? Maybe I should push them
to pay my $185 ramp truck charge?? Hmmm.
Thanks Larry,
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: <Sprite60@aol.com>
To: <schauss@worldnet.att.net>; <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2001 8:31 PM
Subject: Re: BJ8 Miss
>
> It seems that there were quite a few failures of the moss rotors. I
believe
> that this was remedied by them using a new vendor. They were well aware
of
> the failures with lots of complaints. LARRY
From Jurgen de Haan <jdh at elscolab.nl>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 13:10:49 +0100
Subject: RE: BJ8 Miss
please remove from mailing list
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: David Masucci [mailto:david_m@radiantsoundworks.com]
Verzonden: maandag 22 januari 2001 12:21
Aan: healeys@autox.team.net
Onderwerp: Re: BJ8 Miss
Larry....so Moss knew they were selling bad parts? Maybe I should push them
to pay my $185 ramp truck charge?? Hmmm.
Thanks Larry,
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: <Sprite60@aol.com>
To: <schauss@worldnet.att.net>; <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>;
<>
Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2001 8:31 PM
Subject: Re: BJ8 Miss
>
> It seems that there were quite a few failures of the moss rotors. I
believe
> that this was remedied by them using a new vendor. They were well aware
of
> the failures with lots of complaints. LARRY
From "Felts, Thomas" <Thomas.Felts at alcoa.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 08:16:14 -0500
Subject: Paint Code
Anyone have a brand and a paint code for "authentic" Healey Blue". I have
base/clear---I think Duport, on it now, but don't have the numbers. What is
involved in repainting a car the same color with the same type of paint?
TIA.
Tom
From Jurgen de Haan <jdh at elscolab.nl>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 15:14:19 +0100
Subject: RE: Paint Code
please remove from mailing list
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: Felts, Thomas [mailto:Thomas.Felts@alcoa.com]
Verzonden: maandag 22 januari 2001 14:16
Aan: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Onderwerp: Paint Code
Anyone have a brand and a paint code for "authentic" Healey Blue". I have
base/clear---I think Duport, on it now, but don't have the numbers. What is
involved in repainting a car the same color with the same type of paint?
TIA.
Tom
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 11:43:54 -0500
Subject: Solve your logo problems
Hi folks......So by now I hope everyone knows that they can download
the logo, and script from Brian Mix
at this address: http://www.sdhealey.org/HEALEY.eps
And the Mac heads can contact me for their version.
Thanks to Brian and John Slade for their help!
Cheers, Stephen Hutchings
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 12:16:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
OK, By now Gary, you may have come to the real solution - they are
all correct depending on the local conditions. Here in NE Penna we
have a high water table and damp rising from the earth is of real
concern as well as very changeable air-borne humidity and
temperatures. In other areas with low water tables and and the same
ambient air quality as ours will have different preventative
solutions.
Ed A
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael A. Flaws <flaws@ibm.net>
To: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, January 22, 2001 1:50 AM
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
>
>Gary,
>Mike L. mentioned the observation that million dollar epoxied floor
airplane
>hangars will sweat. The epoxy will serve as a vapor barrier
(preventing moisture
>from underneath) but once again it goes back to basic physics: if
the concrete
>is cold, then the epoxy coating is cold, when warm moist air hits
the cold epoxy
>coating, you will have condensation forming from above (not emanating
from
>below). In fact an epoxy floor will sweat faster because the
condensation has
>nowhere to go where as unsealed concrete will actually absorb it like
a sponge
>until it reaches a saturation point and then the moisture will sit on
the
>surface! ( It will also hold that damp cold feeling for a long time)
>In my last post I did not include another preventative/maintenance
measure that
>I use and that is fans. I have two ceiling fans that run all year
round
>circulating the air (up in the winter and down in the summer). When
we do get
>that temperature inversion and the floor begins to sweat, I place a
box fan or
>two pointed towards the floor under the cars to help the moisture to
evaporate.
>Ultimately what is happening is I am force feeding the air over the
floor to
>speed up the equalization of the air and floor temperature.
>Michael Flaws
>
>Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
>> In a message dated 1/20/01 10:20:24 PM, flaws@ibm.net writes:
>>
>> << the big mass of concrete, the garage floor. There in
>> lies the challenge, and it doesn't matter whether the garage is
heated or air
>> conditioned, or from what part of the country you are located...a
temperature
>> differential will produce condensation because that mass of
concrete will act
>> like a big ice cube, and will stay cool for a long time. >>
>>
>> Thanks for those notes -- Does anyone have any experience as to
whether a
>> good epoxy paint or tile over a concrete floor will alter the
behaviors?
>>
>> Cheers
>> Gary
From Steve Tidwell <sbtidwell at qualcomm.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 09:11:11 -0800
Subject: First Healey soon
Hello, I am new to the list and have been monitoring the traffic for the
last couple of weeks. I would like to say that this group seems to much
more civil and better behaved than the Porsche 356 group (I am selling '59
Porsche to finance my Healey). I am in the market for a BN2. There is one
available near me that I will have a chance to look at later this week. I
have spoken to the owner and this is what I know. The car is described as a
daily driver that runs great could use a paint job and the interior need
some attention. He did mention that the car does leak some oil (no
surprise) and has some rust in the rear wings. My question is what are the
major areas to look for when evaluating this car? Where are the common rust
areas and how available are replacement parts? What are the parts that are
not readily available that I should make sure are on the car and in working
order? I have owned an MGA and several Triumphs' in the past but not a
Healey so I understand life with a British car. The thing that I have not
decided yet it whether to by a semi project (driver) car and work on it and
still be able to drive and enjoy it or a "done" car, so any comments on
this subject would be welcome as well.
PS. If anybody has a lead on a BN2 in southern California that they would
like to share I would appreciate that as well.
Thanks,
Steve Tidwell
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 12:47:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Not Healey related San Diego
Thanks to all who took the time to respond to my request for information
on San Diego.
We have some great ideas to work with.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Krazy Kiwi wrote:
> I will be visiting San Diego area for 2 days 1 Feb.
>
> Any accommodation recommendations would be appreciated.
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
>
> www.precisionsportscar.com
From "Alan Schultz" <aschultz at uwsa.edu>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 12:07:45 -0600
Subject: Condensation on car
I think the perfect solution to this problem is to use one of those
plastic enclosures being sold to the public for storage of the car. The
enclosure is usually inflated with a small low air volume fan. I would
add a dehumidifier that would recirculate the air within the bag to
reduce the moisture level to where condensation would not take place.
There would be no need to operate the dehumidifier during the cold
winter months here in Wisconsin so the cost wouldn't be all that bad.
Also, since the volumne of the plastic bag is considerably less than a
full size garage, it should have to run very hard to maintain a low
humidity level.
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
aschultz.vcf]
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 13:17:35 -0500
Subject: Healeys & connections
All this activity with sending out the Logo artwork has made me
realize that there are a lot of you who are engaged in some aspect of
the graphics world....it's amazing how the list leads to secondary
connections. I've watched while listers sorted out software/computer
problems, and even helped each other fix house-hold appliances!
This train of thought has got me to thinking that the graphics
fraternity might be interested in my web-site; there aren't any
Healeys, but if you look carefully, you'll find an Austin Hereford in
Hampstead.
Check out http://www.shutchings.com
Who knows what other connections it might lead to.
Cheers, Stephen BJ8
From "Murphy, David (Southfield)" <david.murphy at honeywell.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 12:56:46 -0700
Subject: RE: Condensation on Car
Robert,
I live in Southern Michigan, and park my car in a wooden detached garage
with a nice solid concrete floor. My car covers have always been cotton and
as such breath pretty well, and the garage doesn't leak water. But I noticed
a lot of condensation on my cars and underhood bracketry was rusting like
mad. Then I covered the floor with a couple of vinyl backed tarps (like your
can buy at Home Depot for $6 each) and all rusting stopped.
Dave Murphy
-----Original Message-----
From: WmsRbt@aol.com [mailto:WmsRbt@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 20, 2001 12:03 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: DelaneySF@aol.com
Subject: Condensation on Car
Hi all,
I'm a newbie owner, just got my hands on my first Healey, a BJ8, that I had
restored to V,VG driver status by someone who dit the work faster (1 1/2
years vs. at least 25 years) than I could have, and much better to boot.
Being a newbie I get at least 50 basic questions before I get flamed, right?
Well, here's my first request for feedback on a problem. (Incidently, I
searched the list and I didn't find this discussed. I've done a search on
other questions I had, and found the list to be tremendous resource. You
guys are much to be thanked for sharing your knowledge about these great
cars. stroke stroke)
I have my car stored under a cover in my garage, which is not
air-conditioned
of course. Today, I went out to the garage to tinker, pamper, etc. I
removed the cover and resumed spiritual bonding with my car. To my dismay,
I
discovered that condensation had formed on metal surfaces. I first noticed
it on the wire wheels, but on further inspection I find condensation on the
frame, sofit sides of body panels, exhaust system and the like. Today is
damp and rainy. Last night was not particularly cold, but since the
relative
humity is close to 100 percent and the car is cool (literally, in this
context), the moisture in the air is apparently condensing on the first cold
surface it contacts as the air flows up from around the skirt of the cover.
I even saw evidence where moisture had run down the side of the car on
previous occasions and dried, so this has been going on for a while.
I can imagine all kinds of problems that this can cause; condensation in
half-filled gas tanks, moisture in distributor, the infamous condensation in
fuel gauges, corrosion in exhaust system, and on and on. Needless to say, I
have invested too much in my Healey to have it sitting under a cover, bathed
in moisture.
I'm curious if anyone has encountered this problem and what you did. I'm
open to suggestions, even so far as to AC the garage. You may respond off
list if you like, and thanks in advance to all.
Robert Williams
66 BJ8 (Thank you Pete Delaney!)
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 16:18:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Pulling a trailer with your Austin Healey
Don,
I viewed the trailer. Cute.
A question arose. Is the position of the wheels and axle unsafe? I seem to
recall that if the axle is positioned too far forward or aft that this can
cause a wagging effect at higher speeds. This is why one should attempt to
distribute the load in a trailer evenly fore and aft with a slightly greater
amount forward. Any thoughts?
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Yarber <dyarber@dynasty.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2001 7:29 PM
Subject: Pulling a trailer with your Austin Healey
>
> A little while ago there was a thread about pulling a trailer with an
Austin
> Healey. Please visit the webpage listed to see what might be the best
> trailer to consider.
>
> http://snoozer.bizland.com/index.html
>
> (I can't run the standard "no financial interest, yada, yada, yada, since
my
> brother-in-law is the proprietor and CEO of the company that makes these)
> Don
> BN7
> God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
> Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
> difference.
From Susan and John Roper <vscjohn at huntnet.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 15:23:10 -0600
Subject: Re: First Healey soon
Just you wait. John
Steve Tidwell wrote:
> Hello, I am new to the list and have been monitoring the traffic for the
> last couple of weeks. I would like to say that this group seems to much
> more civil and better behaved than the Porsche 356 group (I am selling '59
> Porsche to finance my Healey). I am in the market for a BN2. There is one
> available near me that I will have a chance to look at later this week. I
> have spoken to the owner and this is what I know. The car is described as a
> daily driver that runs great could use a paint job and the interior need
> some attention. He did mention that the car does leak some oil (no
> surprise) and has some rust in the rear wings. My question is what are the
> major areas to look for when evaluating this car? Where are the common rust
> areas and how available are replacement parts? What are the parts that are
> not readily available that I should make sure are on the car and in working
> order? I have owned an MGA and several Triumphs' in the past but not a
> Healey so I understand life with a British car. The thing that I have not
> decided yet it whether to by a semi project (driver) car and work on it and
> still be able to drive and enjoy it or a "done" car, so any comments on
> this subject would be welcome as well.
>
> PS. If anybody has a lead on a BN2 in southern California that they would
> like to share I would appreciate that as well.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve Tidwell
From Gold1434 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 16:23:15 EST
Subject: Idling Problems Pt 3
Ok, with the throttle linkage disconnected from the throttle shaft
which connects the two carbs, it seems the consensus for the idling problem
was the butterfly valves. I checked them and both appeared closed. Put
everything back together and cranked her up and she idled at 2000 and slowly
moved up to approx. 3100 during the course of four minutes. I was hoping
that I had blown some debris out of the valves during the process, but no
luck.
All the screws on the throttle shaft (I count three) have been backed
off their stop and it still has no effect until I begin to tighten them down,
obviously.
Got any other ideas?
From "Dr. C Rubino" <ruvino at recorder.ca>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 16:35:15 -0500
Subject: painting the car
A follow up question to Steve Hutching's.
I think it is time for a re-spray. I want the same colour.
What about masking the fender piping? I know that you should really pull the
fenders but that adds many dollars to the cost.
Carl
BN-4(L)-1957
From "Greg Monfort" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 17:29:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Idling Problems Pt 3
Assuming you're satisfied that the throttle plates
are properly seating, are the chokes seated? Pistons
move freely in the dashpots? Distributor tight? Any
vacuum leaks? Adequate fuel pressure?
GM
From "Alan Schultz" <aschultz at uwsa.edu>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 16:28:55 -0600
Subject: Re: Idling Problems Pt 3
Have a look at the throttle shafts. If they are well worn it could be a source
of
air. Then, I would examine the fuel enrichment system on the SU carbs. If the
enrichment system is causing excess fuel to be drawn in along with throttle
shaft
leakage it might explain the high idle speed.
Gold1434@aol.com wrote:
> Ok, with the throttle linkage disconnected from the throttle shaft
> which connects the two carbs, it seems the consensus for the idling problem
> was the butterfly valves. I checked them and both appeared closed. Put
> everything back together and cranked her up and she idled at 2000 and slowly
> moved up to approx. 3100 during the course of four minutes. I was hoping
> that I had blown some debris out of the valves during the process, but no
> luck.
> All the screws on the throttle shaft (I count three) have been backed
> off their stop and it still has no effect until I begin to tighten them down,
> obviously.
> Got any other ideas?
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
aschultz.vcf]
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 16:45:53 -0600
Subject: To commute or not to commute - non Healey content
Hi Fellows
Just received this from one of my U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service
buddies, it contains some interesting thoughts for one to
consider at the beginning of the week <grin>!
Kind regards
Ed
WOMEN DRIVERS
I was riding to work yesterday when I observed a female driver
cut right in front of a pickup truck causing him to have to drive
on to the shoulder. This evidently pissed the driver off enough
that he hung his head out his window and flipped the woman off.
"Man, that guy is stupid" I thought to myself. I ALWAYS smile
nicely and wave in a sheepish manner whenever a female does
anything to me in traffic and here's why:
I driver 38 miles each way every day to work, that's 76 miles. Of
these, 16 miles each way is bumper to bumper. Most of the bumper
to bumper is on an 8 lane highway so if you just look at the 7
lanes I'm not in, that means I pass something like a new car
every 40 feet per lane. That's 7 cars every 40 feet for 32
miles. That works out to 982 cars every miles, or 31,424 cars.
Even though the rest of the 34 miles is not bumper to bumper. I
figure I pass least another 4000 cars. That brings the number to
something like 36,000 cars I pass very day. Statistically half of
these are driven by females, that's 18000.
In any given group of females 1 in 28 are having the worst day of
their period. That's 642. According to Cosmopolitan, 70% describe
their love life as dissatisfying or unrewarding, that's 449.
According to the National Institutes of Health, 22% off all
females have seriously considered suicide or homicide, that's 98.
And 34% describe men as their biggest problem, that's 33.
According to the National Rifle Association 5% of all females
carry weapons and this number is increasing! That means that
EVERY SINGLE DAY I drive past at least one female that has a
lousy love life, thinks men are her biggest problem, has
seriously considered suicide or homicide, is having the worst day
of her period, and is armed.
No matter what she does in traffic, I wouldn't DREAM of flipping
her off!
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 18:32:25 -0500
Subject: Re: painting the car
Carl wrote:
> A follow up question to Steve Hutching's.
>
> I think it is time for a re-spray. I want the same colour.
>
> What about masking the fender piping? I know that you should really pull
the
> fenders but that adds many dollars to the cost.
>
> Carl
> BN-4(L)-1957
Don't mask the beading. It will be a short cut job, and will certainly look
like it after!
You shouldn't have to pull the fenders right off the car. If you loosen the
fender bolts, you should be able to straighten the mounting tabs of the
beading and remove the beading. Upon replacement of the beading (new ones
hopefully) after the paint job, simply stick electrical tape over the ends
of the tabs so they won't scratch your new paint, and slip them through the
gap between fender and shroud. Adjust the beading to the corect height and
contour, tighten the fender bolts, then finally remove the tape from the
tabs, and bend the tabs over tightly.
Don't forget to do the plastic strips beneath headlamp and parking lamp.
Silver/ grey full round bead exposed for the 6 cylinder cars, and half round
black beading up against the painted surface for the Hundreds.
Nuttin' to it!
Rich Chrysler
From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 19:21:29 -0500
Subject: rear bearings-thank you
Would like to thank all who offered comments and gudiance on this
problem. Now have entire rear out of car. For benefit of those who
are just buying their first Healey here is what I found. A small wet
spot on the left rear tire,that I thought was a leaking wheel cyclinder
was in fact a poor repair job from the past.
No O ring on the left rear,part of a paper gasket. Leaking pinion
seal. Right rear some time in past must have had a bearing over heat or
come apart some how. In any case the inside of the hub is badly
scored,so bad I am replacing. When I removed the right hub was able to
force the bearing out with my fingers.
Thanks again to those who helped.
Bill Pollock
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 17:08:26 -0700
Subject: Re: Door keys
Dick,
I've known for a long time why I'm struggling to complete my Healey dream. It's
called too many kids. Hopefully that condition will not recur.
bill Lawrence
dickb@cheerful.com wrote:
> Well Bill
>
> Now you know why you're struggling to complete the restoration of your BN1 in
>your garage and Peter is making a living doing the same sort of thing.
>
> DickB
>
> ---- you wrote:
> >
> > Which brings up the question: How do you file the short pins longer?
> >
> > Bill Lawrence
> >
> > Peter Brauen wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Barry,
> > > If you are holding just the tumbler assembly, and can see the little
> > > brass 'tumblers,' insert the key you want to use and then file down the
>ones
> > > that stick up too high or down too low. A proper key will make the lock
> > > assembly smooth on both sides. This is what a locksmith will do anyway.
>Hope
> > > this helps.
> > > Peter (BMC Restorations)
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
> > > To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 8:32 PM
> > > Subject: Door keys
> > >
> > > >
> > > > My two door keys are different. I now have the tumbler out of one of
> > > > the handles. Can it be modified to the same key pattern as the other
> > > > door or do I need to order two tumblers of the same pattern. Barry Pate
> > > > BJ8
> >
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> Get your free email from AltaVista at http://altavista.iname.com
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 17:30:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Hundred Registry
Good point, sitting in front of my computer I don't know where anyone is
writing from (except for the ones I occasionally share an adult beverage with)
and for this purpose it doesn't matter as long as its in english (my failure no
one else's). Even that would at least be educational.
Bill Lawrence
Rich C wrote:
> Reid Trummel wrote:<snip>
> > In any case, whatever becomes of the/a 100 Registry, I hope that it will
> be
> > a non-denominational registry (i.e., not labeled as belonging to any one
> > club), so that all Healey enthusiasts, regardless of club affiliation, or
> no
> > club affiliation at all, can feel included and welcome and will support
> it.
>
> Point well taken, Reid.
> This should rise above any and all political and personal aspects, borders,
> boundaries, etc.
> Is there any advantage to having a separate registry on this side of the
> pond? If we all were to feed our info to John Harper who has a considerable
> amount of data already, we'd already have a good head start.
> Possibly an assistant here in North America, who'd be easier and cheaper to
> phone if needs be, rather than trying to place relatively expensive overseas
> calls, would be a good idea. Of course Email or snail mail would be the most
> logical communication venue.
> I would certainly volunteer to help in such a capacity
> Comments? Questions?
> Rich Chrysler
> Mt. Hope, Ontario, Canada.
From "William Kollar" <wkollar at superior.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 19:36:55 -0500
Subject: McCahill Test Drive
Hello All,
I have in my possession a copy (not in very good condition) of the
November 1953 "Mechanix Illustrated" (notice the spelling of
Mechanic). In that issue is a test drive of the Healey 100 by Tom
McCahill. Because I haven't seen this particular issue discussed on
the list or else where, I thought you might like to take a look at the
article so I threw a quick web page together. Please keep in mind
that I had a bit of give and take with regards to the quality of the
graphics and the time it takes for the web page to load. I'm sure
there is most likely some sort of copyright thing/problem with posting
this, but here goes anyway.
The url is:
http://home.beseen.com/hobbies/dryflycaster/HealeyTestDrive.html
I hope that you enjoy.
____________________________________________________________
Ever Wonder ?
__ bill kollar
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 17:35:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Door keys
If the joke is worthy no "LOL" should be necessary. I guess this one failed.
I'm mortified!
Bill Lawrence
Ray Feehan wrote:
> If that was a joke on your part you should have included a lol at the end.
> If it wasn't have the job done by a locksmith and save yourself a lot of
> grief. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
> To: "Peter Brauen" <pbrauen@telepak.net>
> Cc: <jbpate@attglobal.net>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 6:18 PM
> Subject: Re: Door keys
>
> >
> > Which brings up the question: How do you file the short pins longer?
> >
> > Bill Lawrence
> >
> > Peter Brauen wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Barry,
> > > If you are holding just the tumbler assembly, and can see the little
> > > brass 'tumblers,' insert the key you want to use and then file down the
> ones
> > > that stick up too high or down too low. A proper key will make the lock
> > > assembly smooth on both sides. This is what a locksmith will do anyway.
> Hope
> > > this helps.
> > > Peter (BMC Restorations)
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
> > > To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 8:32 PM
> > > Subject: Door keys
> > >
> > > >
> > > > My two door keys are different. I now have the tumbler out of one of
> > > > the handles. Can it be modified to the same key pattern as the other
> > > > door or do I need to order two tumblers of the same pattern. Barry
> Pate
> > > > BJ8
From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 19:52:28 -0500
Subject: engine parts
i'm starting to make arrangements to have my Bn-4-2 port engine rebuilt
. The shop I have chosen has a very good reputation, but hasn't rebuilt
a vintage british engine in 5 or 6 years. I need to know where to get
possible internal parts i.e. rings, lifters etc.
The shop foreman also mentioned something about hardened exhaust valve
seats due to the use of unleaded gas ? Any info would be gratefully
appreciated.
Thanks Dennis Broughel Troy,N.Y.
1957 Bn4
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 08:06:12 -0800
Subject: how to unsubscribe (was RE: Paint Code)
The following is from the automaticly sent "welcome" message you should have
received when you originally subscribed to this list.
------------------
To unsubscribe from healeys, send the following in the body (not
the subject line) of an email message to majordomo@autox.team.net:
unsubscribe healeys
This will unsubscribe the account from which you send the message.
If you are subscribed with some other address, you'll have to send
a command of the following form instead:
unsubscribe healeys other-address@your_site.your_net
When you send some other request which majordomo doesn't understand to
the majordomo@autox.team.net address, it may take days, maybe even a week
before a human gets around to reading it and actually acting upon it.
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 17:59:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
Well yeah, but it might keep the cat from peeing on it.
Bill Lawrence
(By the way, that was a joke.)
Alan F Cross wrote:
> In message <3A6B5022.68D65FF@worldnet.att.net>, Robert Larson <robertlar
> son@worldnet.att.net> writes
> >Hi Alan,
> >
> > First a disclaimer.... I have no physics or chemical degree
> >so this should not be taken as Gospel.!!
> >
> > But as I understand it, the forcing of current thru the
> >car could be a very bad idea. My old-timers disease does not allow me
> >to remember the source but from memory but one of the causes of
> >deterioration (rust and decay) is that wherever there is a seam there is
> >accumulated foreign material, particularly road salts. These junctions
> >when wet sometimes try to act as a battery and the galvanic action
> >accelerates the decay partially due too the formation of acids. This
> >is worse in the case of dissimilar metals. I.E. steel and aluminum as in
> >the early 100's. That is why there are pieces between the external
> >parts and the main body. Forcing a current thru these points acts
> >similar to charging the battery and the resultant chemical
> >reactions... So, if this theory or assumption is correct you
> >might be substituting one problem for another.
> >
> >Bob
> >55 BN1
> >
>
> I had forgotten about the insulation between the wings and the shroud.
>
> Alternating current might be the preferred solution, so that the reverse
> half-cycles sort of cancel the forward half-cycles. Or perhaps it's just
> a rotten idea!
>
> Alan F Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
> H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
> See the UK national Austin Healey Club at:
> www.austin-healey-club.com
From "Robert Barback" <tippytoo at eatel.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 19:26:34 -0600
Subject: RE: Healey Trailer Danger
Down in New Orleans , we have a un written rule, you have a car you have to
have a boat. Kinda comes with living below sea level. But with these boats
comes trailers and nobody would have a trailer built like this with all the
weight on the tongue / Except Trucks and 5th wheelers With the weight being
claimed at being 600 Lbs you are putting way over that load on the rear of
your Healey. If you figure the multiplier factor of Load and wind drag and
leaverage from the balance point (rear axle ) . If the axle were moved forward
to around where the window is you would have 50lbs or less tongue weight and
could pull it and cargo all day. Normal loading I think a 60/40 split
I think your brother in law CEO should go back to school on this one..
Robert
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 17:18:13 -0800
Subject: Re: Idling Problems Pt 3
Sorry haven't followed this thread completely but how about the "chokestop
screws" riding on the choke cam. If they are set up too high the "throttle
shaft screws" will have no effect until they are past the setting of the
choke screws....at least on a BT7....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: <Gold1434@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2001 1:23 PM
Subject: Idling Problems Pt 3
>
> Ok, with the throttle linkage disconnected from the throttle shaft
> which connects the two carbs, it seems the consensus for the idling
problem
> was the butterfly valves. I checked them and both appeared closed. Put
> everything back together and cranked her up and she idled at 2000 and
slowly
> moved up to approx. 3100 during the course of four minutes. I was hoping
> that I had blown some debris out of the valves during the process, but no
> luck.
> All the screws on the throttle shaft (I count three) have been
backed
> off their stop and it still has no effect until I begin to tighten them
down,
> obviously.
> Got any other ideas?
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 17:30:37 -0800
Subject: Re: McCahill Test Drive
Bill, thanks for sharing...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Kollar" <wkollar@superior.net>
To: "Austin Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2001 4:36 PM
Subject: McCahill Test Drive
>
> Hello All,
>
> I have in my possession a copy (not in very good condition) of the
> November 1953 "Mechanix Illustrated" (notice the spelling of
> Mechanic). In that issue is a test drive of the Healey 100 by Tom
> McCahill. Because I haven't seen this particular issue discussed on
> the list or else where, I thought you might like to take a look at the
> article so I threw a quick web page together. Please keep in mind
> that I had a bit of give and take with regards to the quality of the
> graphics and the time it takes for the web page to load. I'm sure
> there is most likely some sort of copyright thing/problem with posting
> this, but here goes anyway.
>
> The url is:
> http://home.beseen.com/hobbies/dryflycaster/HealeyTestDrive.html
>
> I hope that you enjoy.
>
> ____________________________________________________________
>
> Ever Wonder ?
>
> __ bill kollar
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 18:37:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
> I've read all of these messages with a lot of interest because I have often
>amused
> myself trying to think of a solution for this problem. What I've come up with
>is my
> dream garage which will probably never be built but which I think would solve
>the
> problem if I was ever silly enough to take my Healey out of New Mexico.
>
> This garage would be built from the ground up with heavy insulation under and
>around
> the floor slab, in the walls and the ceiling. It would incorporate a hydronic
> radiant heating grid cast into the floor. The hydronics would be tied into a
>small
> gas water heater with a circulating pump for back-up heat and a set of solar
> collectors on the roof to pick up the main load. The system would be
>controlled by
> a computer which would receive information from temperature and humidity
>sensors,
> calculate the dew point and control the garage temperature a few degrees
>above. It
> could also be set to anticipate weekends when you might want to work in the
>garage
> and drive the temperature up over a day or two so you will be comfortable.
>(It takes
> a while to change the temperature of a large thermal mass.)
>
> I realize this goes a bit beyond the original question but it might be
>something to
> shoot for when one wins the lottery. But actually, while heated garages are
>usually
> considered to be prohibitively expensive (for some of us) most of the expense
>is in
> retrofitting systems and in buying fuel to provide the heat. Hydronic heat
>can be
> quite reasonable when it is built in and a solar system would cut fuel cost
> substantially.
>
> I'm tired now and need a Guinness.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> "Michael A. Flaws" wrote:
>
> > Gary,
> > Mike L. mentioned the observation that million dollar epoxied floor airplane
> > hangars will sweat. The epoxy will serve as a vapor barrier (preventing
>moisture
> > from underneath) but once again it goes back to basic physics: if the
>concrete
> > is cold, then the epoxy coating is cold, when warm moist air hits the cold
>epoxy
> > coating, you will have condensation forming from above (not emanating from
> > below). In fact an epoxy floor will sweat faster because the condensation
>has
> > nowhere to go where as unsealed concrete will actually absorb it like a
>sponge
> > until it reaches a saturation point and then the moisture will sit on the
> > surface! ( It will also hold that damp cold feeling for a long time)
> > In my last post I did not include another preventative/maintenance measure
>that
> > I use and that is fans. I have two ceiling fans that run all year round
> > circulating the air (up in the winter and down in the summer). When we do
>get
> > that temperature inversion and the floor begins to sweat, I place a box
>fan or
> > two pointed towards the floor under the cars to help the moisture to
>evaporate.
> > Ultimately what is happening is I am force feeding the air over the floor to
> > speed up the equalization of the air and floor temperature.
> > Michael Flaws
> >
> > Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > > In a message dated 1/20/01 10:20:24 PM, flaws@ibm.net writes:
> > >
> > > << the big mass of concrete, the garage floor. There in
> > > lies the challenge, and it doesn't matter whether the garage is heated or
>air
> > > conditioned, or from what part of the country you are located...a
>temperature
> > > differential will produce condensation because that mass of concrete will
>act
> > > like a big ice cube, and will stay cool for a long time. >>
> > >
> > > Thanks for those notes -- Does anyone have any experience as to whether a
> > > good epoxy paint or tile over a concrete floor will alter the behaviors?
> > >
> > > Cheers
> > > Gary
From "Kevin Andrews" <kevina at centernet.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 21:45:00 -0500
Subject: Event update
Please make a note that the GATHERING website has been updated .Please make
plans now for the rooms are running out at the hotel.
goto www.triumphclub.org/the_gathering.htm
The featured car for this year is the Jaguar E-Type.
Friday parts auction
Sat. show
Sun. driving events
April 27 -29
Winston-Salem NC
At the Reynolda House and Historic Reynolda Village & Restaurants
Please make a note in your calenders.
Thank You
Lori Andrews
TCOC Media Chairman
From busyrider at springmail.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 21:43:03 -0500
Subject: Re: engine parts
Dennis,
Out of curioisity, how did you choose a shop that has no recent experience with
Healeys?
Fred Criswell
On Mon, 22 Jan 2001 19:52:28 -0500 Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
wrote:
i'm starting to make arrangements to have my Bn-4-2 port engine rebuilt
. The shop I have chosen has a very good reputation, but hasn't rebuilt
a vintage british engine in 5 or 6 years. I need to know where to get
possible internal parts i.e. rings, lifters etc.
The shop foreman also mentioned something about hardened exhaust valve
seats due to the use of unleaded gas ? Any info would be gratefully
appreciated.
Thanks Dennis Broughel Troy,N.Y.
1957 Bn4
From busyrider at springmail.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 21:56:43 -0500
Subject: Re: RE: Healey Trailer Danger
Don,
My lawyer is interested in buying one of these (with the axle located as shown
in the pictures).
:-)
Fred Criswell
On Mon, 22 Jan 2001 19:26:34 -0600 Robert Barback <tippytoo@eatel.net> wrote:
Down in New Orleans , we have a un written rule, you have a car you have to
have a boat. Kinda comes with living below sea level. But with these boats
comes trailers and nobody would have a trailer built like this with all the
weight on the tongue / Except Trucks and 5th wheelers With the weight being
claimed at being 600 Lbs you are putting way over that load on the rear of
your Healey. If you figure the multiplier factor of Load and wind drag and
leaverage from the balance point (rear axle ) . If the axle were moved forward
to around where the window is you would have 50lbs or less tongue weight and
could pull it and cargo all day. Normal loading I think a 60/40 split
I think your brother in law CEO should go back to school on this one..
Robert
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 21:51:58 -0800
Subject: Re: First Healey soon
Steve: I though sure that you would be swamped with responses by now.
Maybe everyone is waiting to see what the others will do. So, I'll jump in
and get the ball rolling. We're all experts, you know.
I have observed that the following are some of the key areas that should be
readily apparent during a 'walk around':
1 - Rear quarters (fenders) in front of rear wheels. Water, dirt, mud,
salt, can accumulate here and rust through from the inside.
2 - Rocker panels under the doors. Rust usually starts at rear quarter (see
1 above).
3 - Front fenders. There are holes underneath that are supposed to provide
drainage. If plugged, same problem as above.
4 - Front shock towers. Loose shock bolts can cause threads in shock tower
to strip. Major repair procedure is this happens.
5 - Motor mounts. Check frame around front motor mounts. Stress cracks can
occur.
6 - Aluminum shrouds. Depending on year/model, cracks from the corners
outward. Some on the rear of the front shroud at hood opening and some on
the top of the rear shroud at trunk opening. Also, front shroud where
bolted to the front of the frame.
The best bet, as when buying any used vehicle is to get it up on a rack and
look underneath and have a diagnostic check done on the engine. And drive
it to see if all the gears work including the overdrive.
I believe that virtually every part of a Healey is available. Sources such
as Moss Motors, Victoria British, British Car Specialists, and many others,
provide parts from whole chassis to nuts, bolts, and screws.
Whether to buy a semi-project or a done cars is totally subjective and up to
you. Consider dollars versus time, resources, and your desire to get down
and dirty. Personally, I prefer to do as much work on the car as I am
capable of doing. That way I know what's there and how it was done.
I now concede to all the other experts.
Good Luck! Len,.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Tidwell" <sbtidwell@qualcomm.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2001 9:11 AM
Subject: First Healey soon
>
> Hello, I am new to the list and have been monitoring the traffic for the
> last couple of weeks. I would like to say that this group seems to much
> more civil and better behaved than the Porsche 356 group (I am selling '59
> Porsche to finance my Healey). I am in the market for a BN2. There is one
> available near me that I will have a chance to look at later this week. I
> have spoken to the owner and this is what I know. The car is described as
a
> daily driver that runs great could use a paint job and the interior need
> some attention. He did mention that the car does leak some oil (no
> surprise) and has some rust in the rear wings. My question is what are the
> major areas to look for when evaluating this car? Where are the common
rust
> areas and how available are replacement parts? What are the parts that are
> not readily available that I should make sure are on the car and in
working
> order? I have owned an MGA and several Triumphs' in the past but not a
> Healey so I understand life with a British car. The thing that I have not
> decided yet it whether to by a semi project (driver) car and work on it
and
> still be able to drive and enjoy it or a "done" car, so any comments on
> this subject would be welcome as well.
>
> PS. If anybody has a lead on a BN2 in southern California that they would
> like to share I would appreciate that as well.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve Tidwell
From "Don Gschwind" <DGSCHWIND at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 01:29:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel
Hi, Tom
I just did it, and if you are careful, it's not that hard.
Mine is an adjustable column, has an aluminum wheel with wood rim and
is attached to the hub with 6 or 8 screws. There are two small set
screws that lock the upper part of the stator tube/trafficator to the
column/hub. These must be loosened (or removed) first. There is enough
slack in the column harness with the column full forward that the
"traficator assembly" can be pulled rearward a slight amount. With the
6 screws on the wheel removed from the hub, the wheel should slide
rearward of the hub. The Steering wheel can be tilted to pass the turn
signal lever, and the wheel can be removed. Reassembly is obviously
the reverse, but care must be taken to center the trafficator assembly
in the hub so the turn signal lever is straight up. I did it one year
ago, and I think I remember it correctly. It may not be that easy with
other wheels. Good luck,
DON
BJ8 Pandora
----- Original Message -----
From: tom felts <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2001 11:29 AM
Subject: Steering Wheel
>
> Anyone change a steering wheel lately on a BJ8? How difficult is
it, and
> what are the dangers of doing harm to the signal light unit when
changing
> it?
>
> appreciate any advice.
>
> Regards
> Tom
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 22:58:45 -0800
Subject: Great Healey Rally in Southern California
Dear Healey Folk:
Please save Saturday April 7, 2001 for the Greatest Austin Healey Rally
to ever start at the world famous Petersen Museum in Los Angeles.
(Okay, it's the first Austin Healey Rally to start at the Petersen, but
in any case you can be part of this event!)
The Austin Healey Association (of Southern California) is sponsoring
this rally in conjunction with the Austin Healey Club of San Diego and
the Austin Healey Club of Southern California. (Only in Southern
California could we have three Healey clubs).
The event will start on the roof top parking lot of the Petersen Museum
located at Fairfax Avenue and Wilshire Boulevard in West Los Angeles, at
8.00 AM on Saturday April 7, 2001. (maps will be provided)
Here's the plan:
Healeys will be lined up by classes:
100's,
3000 roadsters,
3000 convertibles,
Modified,
Sprites,
Jensen-Healeys.
>From 8.00 AM to 9.00 AM the cars will be lined up as they enter the
parking lot. At the same time coffee and donuts will be provided for
the drivers (tea and scones for the hungry Healeys).
>From 9.00 AM to 10.00 AM, there will (may) be a Popular Choice judging
by class. We are looking for club members to handle this. (To win the
popular contests you also have to participate in the rally). While this
event is going on Rally participants may wander into the museum and view
some of the exhibits that will be opened exclusively for our group on
that morning.
At 10.15 AM we will have a drivers meeting and at 10.30 AM the cars will
begin to leave on the Rally from the Petersen to a final destination in
Malibu. (two locations are pending at this time). Lunch will be
provided.
We envision that the cars would leave either 30 to 60 seconds apart
depending on the number of entrants. The goal would be for all cars to
be on the road in under in one hour. We have made a preliminary drive
of the course and it is approximately 70 miles long and the route taking
about 2 hours to complete. This will be a time and question rally.
(more on this later).
At the finishing point we will have lunch and determine the winners.
Assuming people arrive in 2 hours they would arrive between 12.30 and
1.30.
The entry fee, which we are currently targeting at $30.00, will include
early morning coffee and donuts, an early morning admission into the
museum, and a lunch: sandwiches, salads, sodas, and pie. It will also
include two free passes for admission into the Petersen Museum at any
later date before the end of 2001.
Who can come, what to drive:
The Rally is open to all members of the Austin Healey Association,
Austin Healey Club of San Diego, Austin Healey Club of Southern
California and the Petersen Museum Checkered Flag 200 members. Members
of these groups are encouraged to bring their Healeys but can enter any
car for the Rally. Anyone else can enter if they have a Healey and pre
register. (Everyone is welcome to come and see the cars).
Based on past Rallies the Checkered Flag members will show up in about
50 of the most beautiful cars that you have seen: Alfas, Bentleys, BMWs,
Bugattis, Corvettes, Cobras, MGs, Morgans, Ford roadsters, Porsches,
Ferraris, and countless other interesting and beautiful cars.
Please let me know if you are interested in being part of this event. We
will have entry forms soon. But save the date today.
Ron Rader & Debi Nichols
Rally Masters
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 23:12:35 -0800
Subject: for Sale 1955 BN1
Listers:
A friend of mine has a 1955 BN1 for sale. He sent me this info:
new tires, wheels, battery, wiring, engine & trans, carpet.
YOM plates, books, small spares. Car runs great. $23,000.
I have not seen this car and have no interest in it, etc....
photos, name, address etc. are available off line in "doc" format.
Ron Rader
From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 01:21:35 -0700 (MST)
Subject: FWD: [Johnmck231@aol.com: Engine/Trans install]
For some reason, this was sent to me rather than healeys@autox.team.net.
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: Johnmck231@aol.com
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 23:50:30 EST
Subject: Engine/Trans install
I have not seen this posted so it may help others as well.
When installing the engine after a rebuild, (67 BJ8 with shroud attached) how
much can you fit at one time?
Can the Engine & Transmission go in as one complete unit?
Should the exhaust and intake manifold be un attached?
The front shroud is in place and there seems to be limited room. Any and all
advice is welcomed.
TIA
John
------- End of forwarded message -------
From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 01:25:47 -0700 (MST)
Subject: FWD: [AlanX@proaxis.demon.co.uk: Re: Condensation on Car]
For some reason, this was sent to me rather than healeys@autox.team.net.
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 15:42:25 +0000
From: Alan F Cross <AlanX@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Condensation on Car
I've been following this thread on condensation with much interest,
being into my first 'Healey' winter here in the damp old UK.
I've installed a dehumidifier, and a humidity meter, and am generally
able to keep the humidity down below 75%. But I may not be targetting
the problem in the most effective way.
As I see it (from the perspective of a physics degree MANY decades
ago!), the problem is not moisture in the air, but where it falls. It
will always fall on the coldest surface first, so arguably a cold floor
will take the hit (first), and divert it from the Healey. It seems to me
that, if the Healey is a couple of degrees warmer, it will always be in
contact with air that can hold the moisture without condensing, so the
LBC will stay dry. My first thought was a couple of greenhouse heaters
UNDER the car would do the job, then I had possibly a better idea.
Suppose we pass a low-voltage, moderate (AC or DC) current through the
car itself, via a croc (alligator?) clip at, say front left and rear
right. The car's resistance will only be a fraction of an ohm or so, so
experimentation might suggest 6 volts at 10-20 amps, thus 60-120w of
heating (equivalent to a light bulb in running costs). This puts the
heat where it's most needed - in the metal of the car. Admittedly there
will be high resistance hotter bits and low resistance colder bits, but
arguably the hotter bits will be where they are most needed - in the
joints.
Might be a good idea to disconnect sensitive electronics, in case the
extra volts (especially if it's AC) get where they might do damage.
Has anybody tried this, or anything like it? Might it work?
PS: I can take no responsibility for anybody who tries this and damages
themselves, their garage or (worst of all) their Healey!!
Alan F Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
See the UK national Austin Healey Club at:
www.austin-healey-club.com
------- End of forwarded message -------
From Jurgen de Haan <jdh at elscolab.nl>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 13:54:31 +0100
Subject: RE: First Healey soon
please remiove from mailing list
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: Steve Tidwell [mailto:sbtidwell@qualcomm.com]
Verzonden: maandag 22 januari 2001 18:11
Aan:
Onderwerp: First Healey soon
Hello, I am new to the list and have been monitoring the traffic for the
last couple of weeks. I would like to say that this group seems to much
more civil and better behaved than the Porsche 356 group (I am selling '59
Porsche to finance my Healey). I am in the market for a BN2. There is one
available near me that I will have a chance to look at later this week. I
have spoken to the owner and this is what I know. The car is described as a
daily driver that runs great could use a paint job and the interior need
some attention. He did mention that the car does leak some oil (no
surprise) and has some rust in the rear wings. My question is what are the
major areas to look for when evaluating this car? Where are the common rust
areas and how available are replacement parts? What are the parts that are
not readily available that I should make sure are on the car and in working
order? I have owned an MGA and several Triumphs' in the past but not a
Healey so I understand life with a British car. The thing that I have not
decided yet it whether to by a semi project (driver) car and work on it and
still be able to drive and enjoy it or a "done" car, so any comments on
this subject would be welcome as well.
PS. If anybody has a lead on a BN2 in southern California that they would
like to share I would appreciate that as well.
Thanks,
Steve Tidwell
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 05:15:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Healey History Sought
A fellow owner (apparently not on the list) seeks advice of any known
history of his 100M. The car was believed to have been raced at Continental
Divide Raceway (CDR) 1957-60 where it was badly damaged. Does anyone know
of an organization and/or person who has any knowledge or records of the
now-defunct CDR?
Please reply directly to owner (cc on this message). TIA.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2
2 x AN5 Just bought another 12/27/00 - Yeah, baby!
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From "Malcolm Bruce" <malcolm at procurcorp.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 08:38:59 -0500
Subject: Re: painting the car
Dr.
I did that on one car and I would not recommend it. The paint edge adheres
to the beading and then when the body flexes with the shroud and beading
being independent components the paint will crack along the beading. Would
only consider that method short term.
Mal
BJ8, MGC
-----Original Message-----
From: Dr. C Rubino <ruvino@recorder.ca>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, January 22, 2001 5:01 PM
Subject: painting the car
>
>A follow up question to Steve Hutching's.
>
>I think it is time for a re-spray. I want the same colour.
>
>What about masking the fender piping? I know that you should really pull
the
>fenders but that adds many dollars to the cost.
>
>Carl
>BN-4(L)-1957
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 07:11:16 -0800
Subject: Re: Great Healey Rally in Southern California
Hey Ron, what coup !!
Count me in.
Kirk Kvam
62BT7
60BN7 (Ford 302)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
To: "Healey, List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2001 10:58 PM
Subject: Great Healey Rally in Southern California
>
> Dear Healey Folk:
>
> Please save Saturday April 7, 2001 for the Greatest Austin Healey Rally
> to ever start at the world famous Petersen Museum in Los Angeles.
> (Okay, it's the first Austin Healey Rally to start at the Petersen, but
> in any case you can be part of this event!)
>
> The Austin Healey Association (of Southern California) is sponsoring
> this rally in conjunction with the Austin Healey Club of San Diego and
> the Austin Healey Club of Southern California. (Only in Southern
> California could we have three Healey clubs).
>
> The event will start on the roof top parking lot of the Petersen Museum
> located at Fairfax Avenue and Wilshire Boulevard in West Los Angeles, at
> 8.00 AM on Saturday April 7, 2001. (maps will be provided)
>
> Here's the plan:
>
> Healeys will be lined up by classes:
>
> 100's,
> 3000 roadsters,
> 3000 convertibles,
> Modified,
> Sprites,
> Jensen-Healeys.
>
> From 8.00 AM to 9.00 AM the cars will be lined up as they enter the
> parking lot. At the same time coffee and donuts will be provided for
> the drivers (tea and scones for the hungry Healeys).
>
> From 9.00 AM to 10.00 AM, there will (may) be a Popular Choice judging
> by class. We are looking for club members to handle this. (To win the
> popular contests you also have to participate in the rally). While this
> event is going on Rally participants may wander into the museum and view
> some of the exhibits that will be opened exclusively for our group on
> that morning.
>
> At 10.15 AM we will have a drivers meeting and at 10.30 AM the cars will
> begin to leave on the Rally from the Petersen to a final destination in
> Malibu. (two locations are pending at this time). Lunch will be
> provided.
>
> We envision that the cars would leave either 30 to 60 seconds apart
> depending on the number of entrants. The goal would be for all cars to
> be on the road in under in one hour. We have made a preliminary drive
> of the course and it is approximately 70 miles long and the route taking
> about 2 hours to complete. This will be a time and question rally.
> (more on this later).
>
> At the finishing point we will have lunch and determine the winners.
> Assuming people arrive in 2 hours they would arrive between 12.30 and
> 1.30.
>
> The entry fee, which we are currently targeting at $30.00, will include
> early morning coffee and donuts, an early morning admission into the
> museum, and a lunch: sandwiches, salads, sodas, and pie. It will also
> include two free passes for admission into the Petersen Museum at any
> later date before the end of 2001.
>
> Who can come, what to drive:
>
> The Rally is open to all members of the Austin Healey Association,
> Austin Healey Club of San Diego, Austin Healey Club of Southern
> California and the Petersen Museum Checkered Flag 200 members. Members
> of these groups are encouraged to bring their Healeys but can enter any
> car for the Rally. Anyone else can enter if they have a Healey and pre
> register. (Everyone is welcome to come and see the cars).
>
> Based on past Rallies the Checkered Flag members will show up in about
> 50 of the most beautiful cars that you have seen: Alfas, Bentleys, BMWs,
> Bugattis, Corvettes, Cobras, MGs, Morgans, Ford roadsters, Porsches,
> Ferraris, and countless other interesting and beautiful cars.
>
> Please let me know if you are interested in being part of this event. We
> will have entry forms soon. But save the date today.
>
> Ron Rader & Debi Nichols
> Rally Masters
From "ghanley430" <ghanley430 at email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 10:49:30 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Stopped running
I was out for a nice Sunday afternoon drive when, without warning, the engine
on my 66 BJ8 died. When I tried to restart it, the engine would turn but not
start so we towed it home. This exact same scenario happened 6 weeks ago and
we replaced the coil, plugs, starter bushings, and rotor (from Moss). It's
worked fine since then until now.
Any ideas?
G Hanley
66 BJ8
67 MGB
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 10:57:55 -0500
Subject: engine insertion
John,
The engine and gearbox on 6 cylinder Healeys can be most easily refitted as
a combined unit. The best way to do this is with an engine tilter mounted
on the two longer rocker shaft studs that the valve cover nuts fit. With a
tilter it is not necessary to remove the bonnet, saving you lots of hassle
with realignment. I like to wait on bolting on the mounts until the motor
is back in low enough for the
mounts not to hit the shroud or steering column. I also usually fit the
manifolds after installing the engine, as this makes it easier to hook up
the dual gauge oil pressure flex line to the block.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
From: Johnmck231@aol.com
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 23:50:30 EST
Subject: Engine/Trans install
I have not seen this posted so it may help others as well.
When installing the engine after a rebuild, (67 BJ8 with shroud attached)
how
much can you fit at one time?
Can the Engine & Transmission go in as one complete unit?
Should the exhaust and intake manifold be un attached?
The front shroud is in place and there seems to be limited room. Any and all
advice is welcomed.
TIA
John
From BigHealey64 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 11:06:49 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 Stopped running
Might be the battery switch. Turn it on and off a few times (jiggle the
handle).
Randy
64 BJ8
From "Robert Johnson" <bandrj at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 11:16:34 -0800
Subject: OT: Signature tag from last week
This is off topic, but last week someone had a signature line on an e-mail
about programmers making programs idiot-proof or bullet proof, and but there
seems to more idiots that programmers, well something along this line. If
someone still has this e-mail, could they please send it to me OL.
TIA,
Bob Johnson
BJ8
From "Mike Goode" <mlgoode at msn.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 09:38:57 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 Stopped running
I had the same problem with my BJ8 after I replaced the distributor
cap and rotor. It turns out that the rotor that the catalogue calls
for (late BJ7's and all BJ8's from both Moss and Hemphill) is not the
same as the one currently installed in my car. The one I have is
slightly shorter in height. When I installed the one called for in the
parts list, it is just tall enough to reach the distributor case
itself and bypass the carbon connector in the cap. What happened to
mine was the rotor rubbed the distributor and forced the carbon
connector and spring into the cap, thus breaking the connection
resulting in a dead (very dead) Healey. I pried out the connector, put
the old rotor in and it has been running great since. I found that on
the "new" rotor (that ran installed for a couple of miles) you could
see a circle engraved on it where it rubbed against the cap.
I spoke to the PO and he said he had the exact same problem. He said
he did not know if the distributor was original BJ8, but he said he
just kept cleaning up the old rotor and replacing it. Is there
another distributor that is interchangeable with a Healey or is it
possible that they put in two different distributors? The old rotor is
very different looking from the "proper" one.
By the way, Moss has been very helpful in trying to resolve the
problem. They went back while I was on the line and checked a couple
from the parts bin, and sent me another one N/C in the chance that
they had put the wrong one in the right box. Still the same part,
however.
I would be interested if anyone else has a different distributor or
problem in their BJ8's.
Mike Goode
BJ8/40462
Scottsdale
----- Original Message -----
From: "ghanley430" <ghanley430@email.msn.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 8:49 AM
Subject: BJ8 Stopped running
I was out for a nice Sunday afternoon drive when, without warning, the
engine
on my 66 BJ8 died. When I tried to restart it, the engine would turn
but not
start so we towed it home. This exact same scenario happened 6 weeks
ago and
we replaced the coil, plugs, starter bushings, and rotor (from Moss).
It's
worked fine since then until now.
Any ideas?
G Hanley
66 BJ8
67 MGB
From "Charles Sither" <crsither at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 17:49:13 -0000
Subject: Re: BJ8 Stopped running
From "ghanley430" <ghanley430 at email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 13:32:18 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Stopped running
One of the problems I have with the distributor is that it is not original.
The PO said it was on there when he got it and thinks it may be from a Jag.
It's difficult to order replacement parts when we're not sure what we have.
It does have a vacuum on it, though.
Question-Are NOS distributors available for BJ8s or has anyone used the
Mallory Dual Point Distributor that Victoria British and others sell?
G Hanley
66 BJ8
67 MGB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Goode" <mlgoode@msn.com>
To: "ghanley430" <ghanley430@email.msn.com>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 11:38 AM
Subject: Re: BJ8 Stopped running
> I had the same problem with my BJ8 after I replaced the distributor
> cap and rotor. It turns out that the rotor that the catalogue calls
> for (late BJ7's and all BJ8's from both Moss and Hemphill) is not the
> same as the one currently installed in my car. The one I have is
> slightly shorter in height. When I installed the one called for in the
> parts list, it is just tall enough to reach the distributor case
> itself and bypass the carbon connector in the cap. What happened to
> mine was the rotor rubbed the distributor and forced the carbon
> connector and spring into the cap, thus breaking the connection
> resulting in a dead (very dead) Healey. I pried out the connector, put
> the old rotor in and it has been running great since. I found that on
> the "new" rotor (that ran installed for a couple of miles) you could
> see a circle engraved on it where it rubbed against the cap.
>
> I spoke to the PO and he said he had the exact same problem. He said
> he did not know if the distributor was original BJ8, but he said he
> just kept cleaning up the old rotor and replacing it. Is there
> another distributor that is interchangeable with a Healey or is it
> possible that they put in two different distributors? The old rotor is
> very different looking from the "proper" one.
>
> By the way, Moss has been very helpful in trying to resolve the
> problem. They went back while I was on the line and checked a couple
> from the parts bin, and sent me another one N/C in the chance that
> they had put the wrong one in the right box. Still the same part,
> however.
>
> I would be interested if anyone else has a different distributor or
> problem in their BJ8's.
>
> Mike Goode
> BJ8/40462
> Scottsdale
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ghanley430" <ghanley430@email.msn.com>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 8:49 AM
> Subject: BJ8 Stopped running
>
>
>
> I was out for a nice Sunday afternoon drive when, without warning, the
> engine
> on my 66 BJ8 died. When I tried to restart it, the engine would turn
> but not
> start so we towed it home. This exact same scenario happened 6 weeks
> ago and
> we replaced the coil, plugs, starter bushings, and rotor (from Moss).
> It's
> worked fine since then until now.
> Any ideas?
>
> G Hanley
> 66 BJ8
> 67 MGB
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 11:06:50 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 Stopped running
Are you sure your fuel pump is working? Fuel pump point problems will
cause the car to die but then it can start working again later i.e. an
intermittent problem as you have described. You should be hearing the
familiar clicking noise when you turn on the ignition. If not, try
thumping on the bulkhead behind the right seat with your fist (but watch
out for the fuel pump mounting bolts!).
Good luck,
John
ghanley430 wrote:
>
> I was out for a nice Sunday afternoon drive when, without warning, the engine
> on my 66 BJ8 died. When I tried to restart it, the engine would turn but not
> start so we towed it home. This exact same scenario happened 6 weeks ago and
> we replaced the coil, plugs, starter bushings, and rotor (from Moss). It's
> worked fine since then until now.
> Any ideas?
>
> G Hanley
> 66 BJ8
> 67 MGB
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 11:38:57 -0800
Subject: Un unexpected restoration
Greetings listers
I suppose it has happened to many of you. You deliver the car for a simple
re-paint or minor body work and soon discover a shocking problem lies just
beneath the skin.
After removal of the body panels in prep for painting we discovered some
pretty amazing stuff. Due to a poorly executed post-accident (many owners
ago) chassis fix, the frame geometry was off by 3/4". The passenger side
door sill was fabricated incorrectly and had thus been cleverly shimmed with
WOOD. The rear fenders had been WELDED to the door pillars instead of
bolted (don't ask). Yes folks, we had a situation. Once I had digested all
the bad news, which was coming daily (and decided which bank to rob), I
concluded that there was only one thing to do: strip that sucker down to
it's underwear and put it back together again, only this time, do it right!
All of the identified defects have been properly fixed (and beautifully I
might add) and she's now waiting for paint (Healey Blue/OEW). I have taken
a bunch of pics of the process. If anyone is interested in wasting a little
time looking at pictures of a dusty half naked BJ8, I invite you to take a
peek (no one's ever seen pics like those before, right?) I'll post the
final pics when the paint and component detailing is complete.
Randy Harris aka "Coop" ('66 BJ8)
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=222976&a=9804286
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 15:33:40 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Stopped running
I may have missed part of this conversation, so maybe I'm repeating old
info. If so....forgive.
The battery disconnect switch is so designed that if the switch is off, it
disconnects the battery from the car's electrical system....fine!
Note that the battery disconnect switch also has a small wire. That wire
connects directly to your coil.What's the small wire for then? It turns out
that when you move the switch to the off position, it connects that wire to
ground....SHORTING out the ignition. I can only assume that's done as a
precaution of some kind.
On my BJ8, I have had the car just stop. I troubleshot the problem and found
the coil being shorted to ground through this mystery wire. It seems that my
disconnect switch has seen better days. There's a point when it's still in
the "on" position, thus supplying power to the car, but it's shorting out
the ignition.
To test, just disconnect that small wire from the switch. Make sure that you
tape it securely as it carries battery voltage. Don't let it short to
anything!!!
If that solves your problem, then the switch needs some work.
Dave
BJ8
TR4A
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@home.com>
To: "ghanley430" <ghanley430@email.msn.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 2:06 PM
Subject: Re: BJ8 Stopped running
>
> Are you sure your fuel pump is working? Fuel pump point problems will
> cause the car to die but then it can start working again later i.e. an
> intermittent problem as you have described. You should be hearing the
> familiar clicking noise when you turn on the ignition. If not, try
> thumping on the bulkhead behind the right seat with your fist (but watch
> out for the fuel pump mounting bolts!).
>
> Good luck,
> John
>
> ghanley430 wrote:
> >
> > I was out for a nice Sunday afternoon drive when, without warning, the
engine
> > on my 66 BJ8 died. When I tried to restart it, the engine would turn but
not
> > start so we towed it home. This exact same scenario happened 6 weeks
ago and
> > we replaced the coil, plugs, starter bushings, and rotor (from Moss).
It's
> > worked fine since then until now.
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > G Hanley
> > 66 BJ8
> > 67 MGB
From Steve Tidwell <sbtidwell at qualcomm.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 12:39:32 -0800
Subject: Re: for Sale 1955 BN1
Ron, et al:
I just spoke to Lynn (owner of said BN1) and (unfortunately for me) the car
has been sold. Lynn said he took the first reasonable offer, so the car
went for $17K.
Steve
At 11:12 PM 1/22/01 -0800, Ron Rader wrote:
>
>Listers:
>A friend of mine has a 1955 BN1 for sale. He sent me this info:
>new tires, wheels, battery, wiring, engine & trans, carpet.
>YOM plates, books, small spares. Car runs great. $23,000.
>I have not seen this car and have no interest in it, etc....
>photos, name, address etc. are available off line in "doc" format.
>
>Ron Rader
From busyrider at springmail.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 10:07:07 -0500
Subject: Re: RE: First Healey soon
Jurgen,
If you follow this link, you will find information and instruction to
unsubscribe from your mailing lists:
http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
Fred C.
On Tue, 23 Jan 2001 13:54:31 +0100 Jurgen de Haan <jdh@elscolab.nl> wrote:
please remiove from mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 16:37:37 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Stopped running
Dave,
This is a very good point. I believe the position of the cutoff switch in 4
seater cars subjects it to the worst vibration, just like
if you ever sat in the very back of a school bus you got jolted the
most of all passengers due to the distance behind the rear wheels.
This can be pretty hard on the switch.
Most of the time when I connect that white wire with the black tracer to the
cutoff switch I don't bare any copper wire, so the holding screw bears on
insulation and makes it look correct without the wire actually being
connected.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: David Masucci <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 3:33 PM
Subject: Re: BJ8 Stopped running
>
> I may have missed part of this conversation, so maybe I'm repeating old
> info. If so....forgive.
>
> The battery disconnect switch is so designed that if the switch is off, it
> disconnects the battery from the car's electrical system....fine!
>
> Note that the battery disconnect switch also has a small wire. That wire
> connects directly to your coil.What's the small wire for then? It turns
out
> that when you move the switch to the off position, it connects that wire
to
> ground....SHORTING out the ignition. I can only assume that's done as a
> precaution of some kind.
>
> On my BJ8, I have had the car just stop. I troubleshot the problem and
found
> the coil being shorted to ground through this mystery wire. It seems that
my
> disconnect switch has seen better days. There's a point when it's still in
> the "on" position, thus supplying power to the car, but it's shorting out
> the ignition.
>
> To test, just disconnect that small wire from the switch. Make sure that
you
> tape it securely as it carries battery voltage. Don't let it short to
> anything!!!
>
> If that solves your problem, then the switch needs some work.
>
> Dave
>
> BJ8
> TR4A
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 15:09:27 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 Stopped running
One of the ways that wire can become grounded (isn't that right Gary
A.?) is if the wiring harness has become worn and that wire gets
grounded somwhere along the loom, probably at one of the nice little
metal clips that hold it onto the chassis. If so, you are better off
disconnecting that wire at the coil, rather than at the switch, for
obvious reasons.
-Roland
On Tue, 23 Jan 2001 15:33:40 -0500, "David Masucci"
<david_m@radiantsoundworks.com> wrote:
:: The battery disconnect switch is so designed that if the switch is off, it
:: disconnects the battery from the car's electrical system....fine!
::
:: Note that the battery disconnect switch also has a small wire. That wire
:: connects directly to your coil.What's the small wire for then? It turns out
:: that when you move the switch to the off position, it connects that wire to
:: ground....SHORTING out the ignition. I can only assume that's done as a
:: precaution of some kind.
::
:: On my BJ8, I have had the car just stop. I troubleshot the problem and found
:: the coil being shorted to ground through this mystery wire.[snip]
:: To test, just disconnect that small wire from the switch. Make sure that you
:: tape it securely as it carries battery voltage. Don't let it short to
:: anything!!!
::
From "Mike Goode" <mlgoode at msn.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 16:50:10 -0700
Subject: Barrett-Jackson pricing
Just got the sale prices from the Barrett-Jackson
(www.barrettjackson.com) auction just completed in Scottsdale.
'59 3000 Mark I roadster $50,220
'60 BN7 roadster $47,520
'67 BJ8 roadster $48,600
Pretty good appreciation. All of the cars were in great shape and I
think all were bottom up restorations. Compared to last year, this is
a big increase. There was one BJ8, professionally restored that went
for $31K in last years auction.
Mike Goode
BJ8-Scottsdale.
From Flyhihealey at gateway.net
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 19:02:03 EST
Subject: Check out
If anyone wants the Healey auction results; and then some:
<A HREF="http://www.barrettjackson.com./auctionresults/2001-BJCCA.pdf";>Click
here: http://www.barrettjackson.com./auctionresults/2001-BJCCA.pdf</A>
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 19:21:34 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Stopped running
Doug that's a good idea...keeping the insulation on I mean! And you're
right, that switch must take a beating from vibration.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: Mr. Finespanner <MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net>
To: David Masucci <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>
Cc: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: BJ8 Stopped running
>
> Dave,
> This is a very good point. I believe the position of the cutoff switch in
4
> seater cars subjects it to the worst vibration, just like
> if you ever sat in the very back of a school bus you got jolted the
> most of all passengers due to the distance behind the rear wheels.
> This can be pretty hard on the switch.
>
> Most of the time when I connect that white wire with the black tracer to
the
> cutoff switch I don't bare any copper wire, so the holding screw bears on
> insulation and makes it look correct without the wire actually being
> connected.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: David Masucci <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>
> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 3:33 PM
> Subject: Re: BJ8 Stopped running
>
>
> >
> > I may have missed part of this conversation, so maybe I'm repeating old
> > info. If so....forgive.
> >
> > The battery disconnect switch is so designed that if the switch is off,
it
> > disconnects the battery from the car's electrical system....fine!
> >
> > Note that the battery disconnect switch also has a small wire. That wire
> > connects directly to your coil.What's the small wire for then? It turns
> out
> > that when you move the switch to the off position, it connects that wire
> to
> > ground....SHORTING out the ignition. I can only assume that's done as a
> > precaution of some kind.
> >
> > On my BJ8, I have had the car just stop. I troubleshot the problem and
> found
> > the coil being shorted to ground through this mystery wire. It seems
that
> my
> > disconnect switch has seen better days. There's a point when it's still
in
> > the "on" position, thus supplying power to the car, but it's shorting
out
> > the ignition.
> >
> > To test, just disconnect that small wire from the switch. Make sure that
> you
> > tape it securely as it carries battery voltage. Don't let it short to
> > anything!!!
> >
> > If that solves your problem, then the switch needs some work.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> > BJ8
> > TR4A
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 19:29:38 EST
Subject: Re: Barrett-Jackson pricing
In a message dated 1/23/01 3:52:59 PM, mlgoode@msn.com writes:
<<
'59 3000 Mark I roadster $50,220
'60 BN7 roadster $47,520
'67 BJ8 roadster $48,600
Pretty good appreciation. >>
That's an understatement, I think -- Have to look to see what the E-types
and 120s did to see if the whole group is moving up, or just Healeys -- but
two years ago, we thought that $35,000 for a fresh restoration was all the
money in the world, and only a 100M could be worth $50k. Could be one of the
few investments in your portfolio that appreciated this year -- and you can
even drive it.
Cheers
gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 19:33:32 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 Stopped running
In a message dated 1/23/01 3:12:51 PM, rwil@cts.com writes:
<< One of the ways that wire can become grounded (isn't that right Gary
A.?) is if the wiring harness has become worn and that wire gets
grounded somwhere along the loom, probably at one of the nice little
metal clips that hold it onto the chassis. If so, you are better off
disconnecting that wire at the coil, rather than at the switch, for
obvious reasons.
-Roland >>
Roland is right, but actually mine was harder to find than that -- in my
situation, it turned out that the little circlip that holds the cut-off knob
and shaft in the switch had come off and the knob and switch had slid out
just enough so that the cut-out wire was grounding out while the switch was
still turned on and supplying smoke from the battery. However, when you're
checking under the car, be sure to check the wiring harness under the wire
clips on the frame rails. Bet if you haven't done this in a year or so, or
replaced those clips with rubber-sheathed ones, you'll find the cloth has
worn through the the clip is rubbing on the wires.
Cheers
Gary
From JBHawkes at aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 20:37:17 EST
Subject: BMIHT Certificate & Wheel Paint Question
Am interested in obtaining BMIHT certificates for my BJ8 and 100M. Could
someone please explain the process or point me to info that would be helpful?
Secondly, other than the 100S, were wheels on factory cars ever painted body
color rather than silver?
TIA
From Steve Dupus <stevsgarage at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 18:33:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: subscibe
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 21:20:20 -0600
Subject: Re: BMIHT Certificate & Wheel Paint Question
bmiht info on page 115 of ahc usa resource book and on page 4 of ahca
membership directory. other than S wheels were silver.
----- Original Message -----
From: JBHawkes@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BMIHT Certificate & Wheel Paint Question
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 20:37:17 EST
Am interested in obtaining BMIHT certificates for my BJ8 and 100M. Could
someone please explain the process or point me to info that would be helpful?
Secondly, other than the 100S, were wheels on factory cars ever painted body
color rather than silver?
TIA
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 22:24:38 -0500
Subject: amusing web site
Listers check out this site, seems like a few Healey owners could really use
this stuff !!!!
Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations
http://www.84to96.net/kaleco/
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 22:25:12 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Stopped running
Roland,
I agree with that 100%, but for concours purposes would
remove the metal liner in the rubber connector for that wire
where the undercar section joins at the firewall.
Doug, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
To: David Masucci <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 6:09 PM
Subject: Re: BJ8 Stopped running
>
> One of the ways that wire can become grounded (isn't that right Gary
> A.?) is if the wiring harness has become worn and that wire gets
> grounded somwhere along the loom, probably at one of the nice little
> metal clips that hold it onto the chassis. If so, you are better off
> disconnecting that wire at the coil, rather than at the switch, for
> obvious reasons.
>
> -Roland
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 19:48:27 -0800
Subject: RE: BMIHT Certificate & Wheel Paint Question
You find lot's of information about the BMIHT and how to order a certificate
at:
- http://www.healey.org/production.shtml
While you're there, click around and check out the rest of the club website.
Regarding painted steel wheels: Silver-gray is the only color that I find
mentioned in Gary Anderson and Roger Moment's book "Austin-Healey
100/100-6/3000 Restoration Guide" (pages 75 and 145).
Brad Weldon
webmaster, AHCUSA
http://healey.org/
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of JBHawkes@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 5:37 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: BMIHT Certificate & Wheel Paint Question
>
>
>
> Am interested in obtaining BMIHT certificates for my BJ8 and 100M. Could
> someone please explain the process or point me to info that would
> be helpful?
>
> Secondly, other than the 100S, were wheels on factory cars ever
> painted body
> color rather than silver?
>
> TIA
From "Amy Turner" <ltturner at usit.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 23:32:49 -0500
Subject: (OT) I want to be a millionaire
I have been a fan of the game show "Who Wants To Be a Millionaire" since it
first aired in the U.S. in August of 1999. On January 18th I had the
opportunity to go to New York and see if I had what it took.
The show that was taped that day will air on January 31. I'm not allowed to
tell anyone whether I actually got to sit in the hot seat and test my mental
mettle, but I can say that I hope you'll watch the show and that you won't
berate me too very much if you know more than I do. I can also say that as
I've watched the show, I thought that if Regis ever asked me what hobby I
enjoyed, I would certainly have to tell him about my 1959 Austin-Healey
Sprite.
It will be a long week waiting for the show to air, but I do hope my fellow
Healey fans will tune in to see if I represent them well!
Amy
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 23:27:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Nuts & Bolts
ok... I stand corrected... but I am further puzzled by the fact that it always
seems it is the nuts that are gone on the shock towers... I seldom hear about
the bolts being stripped.
-Skip-
Steve Gerow wrote:
> Hello Listers,
>
> FWIW--Nuts are a lot stronger than bolts. If you use a high strength nut
> with the same bolt the force is not distributed on the threads evenly and
> they strip one at a time. Normal engineering practice is to use softer nuts.
>
> I read this in a fascinating book on aviation fasteners left me by my
> father, a one-time airframe mechanic.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 22:48:49 -0600
Subject: Healeys and golf - non Healey content
Hi Fellows
Be in Arizona in a few weeks, to hopefully play a few rounds of
golf, look at a few Healeys, look up a few Healey friends that
helped with a recent request and thank them, with the cold
weather up here a laugh or two makes for a shorter winter, enjoy
Kind regards
Ed
One day this guy, who had been stranded on a desert island for
over 10 years, sees an unusual speck on the horizon. "It's
certainly not a ship" he thinks. As the speck gets closer and
closer, he begins to rule out the possibilities of a small boat,
then even a raft. Suddenly, emerging from the surf comes this
drop dead gorgeous blonde woman wearing a wet suit and scuba
gear. She approaches the stunned guy and says "Tell me, how long
is it since you've had a cigarette?" "Ten years", replies the
guy. With that, she reaches over and unzips a waterproof pocket
on her left sleeve and pulls out a pack of fresh cigarettes. He
takes one, lights it and takes a long drag and says, "Oh man! is
that ever good!" "And how how has it been since you've had a
sip of bourbon?" she asks. Trembling the castaway replies, "Ten
year." She reaches over unzips her right sleeve, pull out a flask
and hands it to him. He opens the flask and takes a long swig and
says, "Wow, that's absolutely fantastic!"
At this point, she starts slowly unzipping the long zipper that
runs down the front of her wet suit, looks at the man seductively
and asks, "And how long has it been since you've played around?"
With tears in his eyes, the guy falls to his knees and says "Oh
sweet Jesus! Don't tell me you've got golf clubs in there too!!"
From "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 20:50:50 -0800
Subject: Re: Great Healey Rally in Southern California
Dear Healey Folk:
I drive the route from near the Peterson museum to Malibu every day. The
drive is glorious and I even drive an extra 10 miles every day just for the
pleasure. Should you find yourself in Malibu and continue driving north,
you will drive past the homes of Hollywood's rich and famous. For example
near county line - near Paradise Cove you will pass Barbara Streisand's
beach front estate. Much more. Continuing north, near Mugu rock, you will
be close enough to the ocean to hear whales breathing as they swim,
sometimes as close as 400 yards off shore. Almost every day I see dolphins
playing right beyond the surf line. Certainly a glorious drive.
See 'ya April 7
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
To: "Healey, List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2001 10:58 PM
Subject: Great Healey Rally in Southern California
>
> Dear Healey Folk:
>
> Please save Saturday April 7, 2001 for the Greatest Austin Healey Rally
> to ever start at the world famous Petersen Museum in Los Angeles.
> (Okay, it's the first Austin Healey Rally to start at the Petersen, but
> in any case you can be part of this event!)
>
> The Austin Healey Association (of Southern California) is sponsoring
> this rally in conjunction with the Austin Healey Club of San Diego and
> the Austin Healey Club of Southern California. (Only in Southern
> California could we have three Healey clubs).
>
> The event will start on the roof top parking lot of the Petersen Museum
> located at Fairfax Avenue and Wilshire Boulevard in West Los Angeles, at
> 8.00 AM on Saturday April 7, 2001. (maps will be provided)
>
> Here's the plan:
>
> Healeys will be lined up by classes:
>
> 100's,
> 3000 roadsters,
> 3000 convertibles,
> Modified,
> Sprites,
> Jensen-Healeys.
>
> >From 8.00 AM to 9.00 AM the cars will be lined up as they enter the
> parking lot. At the same time coffee and donuts will be provided for
> the drivers (tea and scones for the hungry Healeys).
>
> >From 9.00 AM to 10.00 AM, there will (may) be a Popular Choice judging
> by class. We are looking for club members to handle this. (To win the
> popular contests you also have to participate in the rally). While this
> event is going on Rally participants may wander into the museum and view
> some of the exhibits that will be opened exclusively for our group on
> that morning.
>
> At 10.15 AM we will have a drivers meeting and at 10.30 AM the cars will
> begin to leave on the Rally from the Petersen to a final destination in
> Malibu. (two locations are pending at this time). Lunch will be
> provided.
>
> We envision that the cars would leave either 30 to 60 seconds apart
> depending on the number of entrants. The goal would be for all cars to
> be on the road in under in one hour. We have made a preliminary drive
> of the course and it is approximately 70 miles long and the route taking
> about 2 hours to complete. This will be a time and question rally.
> (more on this later).
>
> At the finishing point we will have lunch and determine the winners.
> Assuming people arrive in 2 hours they would arrive between 12.30 and
> 1.30.
>
> The entry fee, which we are currently targeting at $30.00, will include
> early morning coffee and donuts, an early morning admission into the
> museum, and a lunch: sandwiches, salads, sodas, and pie. It will also
> include two free passes for admission into the Petersen Museum at any
> later date before the end of 2001.
>
> Who can come, what to drive:
>
> The Rally is open to all members of the Austin Healey Association,
> Austin Healey Club of San Diego, Austin Healey Club of Southern
> California and the Petersen Museum Checkered Flag 200 members. Members
> of these groups are encouraged to bring their Healeys but can enter any
> car for the Rally. Anyone else can enter if they have a Healey and pre
> register. (Everyone is welcome to come and see the cars).
>
> Based on past Rallies the Checkered Flag members will show up in about
> 50 of the most beautiful cars that you have seen: Alfas, Bentleys, BMWs,
> Bugattis, Corvettes, Cobras, MGs, Morgans, Ford roadsters, Porsches,
> Ferraris, and countless other interesting and beautiful cars.
>
> Please let me know if you are interested in being part of this event. We
> will have entry forms soon. But save the date today.
>
> Ron Rader & Debi Nichols
> Rally Masters
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 20:35:56 -0800
Subject: Re: amusing web site
Had a look, what a great site and a disussion board for their products as
well....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 7:24 PM
Subject: amusing web site
>
> Listers check out this site, seems like a few Healey owners could really
use
> this stuff !!!!
>
> Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations
>
> http://www.84to96.net/kaleco/
From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 22:11:28 -0800
Subject: 100 brakes
Getting close to roll-out,but problems cropping up. New brake lines, old
but rebuilt wheel cylinders. Can't seem to stop leaks at rear cylinder on
rt. front . Have lost nerve to tighten the fitting any more (where it
leaks). Doesn't leak a the rebuild point- that is the seals- just at the
point where the pipe enters the cylinder. Any ideas?
Mike Gougeon
Bellingham, Wa.
55 BN2
From DavidBombardier at aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 04:51:31 EST
Subject: Stunning early Spitfire for sale in So Calif
I am moving into a snowy climate and giving up my baby, a 1966 Triumph
Spitfire Mark 2.
I doubt you will find a classier Spitfire, OR a more reliable one.
14 coats of lacquer, triple chrome. See:
http://members.aol.com/davidbombardier/s01-sm.jpg
http://members.aol.com/davidbombardier/s02-sm.jpg
http://members.aol.com/davidbombardier/s03-sm.jpg
http://members.aol.com/davidbombardier/s04-sm.jpg
http://members.aol.com/davidbombardier/s05-sm.jpg
Radically upgraded cooling and electrical systems. See:
http://members.aol.com/davidbombardier/s06-sm.jpg
Side-draft Weber. Fat Yokohamas.
JUST rebuilt engine and transmission (work done by vintage racer Joe Siam of
the Chequered Flag).
Make this baby yours at my eBay auction (where you'll also find more info):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=547524134
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 03:24:24 -0700
Subject: Re: 100 brakes
You say the lines are new. When I make new lines, after I flare them I take
400 grit sandpaper and then 600 grit and sand the flares untill they are
completely smooth. Sometimes the flaring tool leaves tiny burrs which could
cause improper seating of the line in the cylinder. If not check for cross
threading. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "michael e gougeon" <kaynmike.bham@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 11:11 PM
Subject: 100 brakes
>
> Getting close to roll-out,but problems cropping up. New brake lines, old
> but rebuilt wheel cylinders. Can't seem to stop leaks at rear cylinder on
> rt. front . Have lost nerve to tighten the fitting any more (where it
> leaks). Doesn't leak a the rebuild point- that is the seals- just at the
> point where the pipe enters the cylinder. Any ideas?
>
> Mike Gougeon
> Bellingham, Wa.
> 55 BN2
From "Bob Yule" <autofarm at gate-way.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 06:52:31 -0500
Subject: Re: 100 brakes
Mike, obviously check for dirt on the seat in the cylinder, and check the
shape of the flare on the line. Also when the flare is put on the line,
sometimes the join between the two halves of the die will leave a ridge on
the flare itself. This has to be filed off carefully with a small file.
Cheers............Bob.
----- Original Message -----
From: michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2001 1:11 AM
Subject: 100 brakes
>
> Getting close to roll-out,but problems cropping up. New brake lines, old
> but rebuilt wheel cylinders. Can't seem to stop leaks at rear cylinder on
> rt. front . Have lost nerve to tighten the fitting any more (where it
> leaks). Doesn't leak a the rebuild point- that is the seals- just at the
> point where the pipe enters the cylinder. Any ideas?
>
> Mike Gougeon
> Bellingham, Wa.
> 55 BN2
From "Paul Negus" <pauln at iplbath.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 13:01:43 -0000
Subject: First Healey soon
Steve
You may not have been swamped with messages as this subject
has been chewed over many times on this list! (The archives are
well worth a search).
However, at the risk of boring the "old hands", here are some more
general suggestions:
1. Join your local Healey Club and go to their meets. Talk to as
many owners as you can. This will give invaluable advice,
especially on the pitfalls.
2. The better cars (excluding concours and ex-works that often go
to auction in the hope of a very high price!) are usually not
advertised - they change hands by word of mouth - see 1.
3. Hopefully you will meet nearby enthusiasts who will show you
how the car should behave on the road and can point out the usual
rust areas and body rebuild botches. They might even offer to look
over cars with you!
4. It's been said many times but bears repeating - rust is the
number 1 problem with these cars. Beware descriptions such as
'needs a respray', 'minor rust', 'tlc required', etc.
5. Finally, don't be put off by dire warnings of what can go wrong
with a poorly looked after car. When you drive the Healey for the
first time, it'll put such a smile on your face that it will all have been
worth it ... and that smile will recur every time you drive the car!!!
Best of luck in finding a suitable Healey!
Regards
Paul
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 07:53:43 -0600
Subject: Wheels wobble but they don't fall off... hopefully
Okay, I'm still under the front of the car and I came across something I
don't like. If I grab the passenger side wheel and rock it, it wobbles ever
so slightly.. The driver side wheel is tight and doesn't move. Is this a
sign of a bad bearing.. The wobble occurs only when moving the wheel left to
right not up and down. I read in the manual how to check the king pins and
they seem okay. I guess the question is how do you determine if you have a
bad bearing.
TIA
Steve
61 BN7
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 09:02:50 -0500
Subject: Re: [AHCUSA] Looking for a AH 3000 restoration object
How about this one Martin?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=544579986
No interest etc. yadda yadda yadda......
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Martin Gschwend wrote:
> Hello Healeyenthusiasts!
>
> I am looking for an AH 3000 MK I, II or III in any rough condition for
>restoration. Even donor-cars are in my interest. The price should not be much
>higher than US 5.000$ without transport, tax etc. I would even be interested
>in buying a whole Healey-scrap-yard if you know one.
>
> You can contact me:
>
> Martin Gschwend
> Goestingerstrasse 34c/IV
> A-8020 Graz
> Austria/Europe
> mobile: ++43/664/308 70 48
> Fax: ++43/316/38 16 53
>
> Happy healeying, Martin Gschwend
>
> _________________________________________________
> FindLaw - Free Case Law, Jobs, Library, Community
> http://www.FindLaw.com
> Get your FREE @JUSTICE.COM email!
> http://mail.Justice.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> AHCUSA mailing list
> AHCUSA@vitesse.team.net
> http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 09:32:35 -0500
Subject: Re: 100 brakes
Hi Mike,
Although there was a "SERVICE MEMORANDUM" issued 6 Oct 1060 indicating that
brake pipe unions were being superseded and that full flared ends can be used
with the countersink style union we have found that the "bubble ended" brake
pipe flare is more reliable.
It is also important to make the "bubble end" as large as will fit through the
threads.
If anyone would like a copy of the SERVICE MEMORANDUM please contact me off
line.
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob Yule wrote:
> Mike, obviously check for dirt on the seat in the cylinder, and check the
> shape of the flare on the line. Also when the flare is put on the line,
> sometimes the join between the two halves of the die will leave a ridge on
> the flare itself. This has to be filed off carefully with a small file.
> Cheers............Bob.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham@juno.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2001 1:11 AM
> Subject: 100 brakes
>
> >
> > Getting close to roll-out,but problems cropping up. New brake lines, old
> > but rebuilt wheel cylinders. Can't seem to stop leaks at rear cylinder on
> > rt. front . Have lost nerve to tighten the fitting any more (where it
> > leaks). Doesn't leak a the rebuild point- that is the seals- just at the
> > point where the pipe enters the cylinder. Any ideas?
> >
> > Mike Gougeon
> > Bellingham, Wa.
> > 55 BN2
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
brake pipes.jpg]
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 09:57:38 -0500
Subject: Re: 100 brakes
When I rebuild calipers or cylinders it's too easy to overlook
cleaning up any corrosion on the nipple and pipe seats.
Has anybody noticed if the professional rebuilders address this,
ie reface the seats?
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: January 24, 2001 1:11 AM
Subject: 100 brakes
>
> Getting close to roll-out,but problems cropping up. New brake
lines, old
> but rebuilt wheel cylinders. Can't seem to stop leaks at rear
cylinder on
> rt. front . Have lost nerve to tighten the fitting any more
(where it
> leaks). Doesn't leak a the rebuild point- that is the seals-
just at the
> point where the pipe enters the cylinder. Any ideas?
>
> Mike Gougeon
> Bellingham, Wa.
> 55 BN2
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 22:47:30 +0800
Subject: hardtop lining
Hi All
Finally took delivery of the hardtop for my BT7 ex the UK. Appears to be all
there except any trace of the lining.
Could someone advise what type of material and colour was used in the
original hardtop linings and how was it fixed?
TIA
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 10:51:00 -0500
Subject: Fw: 100 brakes
Mike,
I have the formed bridge pipes for the front wheels in stock if you need
any. They are correctly end-shaped, with bubble flares.
Also, cross-threaded cylinders can be Heli-Coiled and used
again as long as the surface where the flare seats is not buggered.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
Cc: michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham@juno.com>; HEALEY LIST
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2001 9:32 AM
Subject: Re: 100 brakes
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> Although there was a "SERVICE MEMORANDUM" issued 6 Oct 1060 indicating
that
> brake pipe unions were being superseded and that full flared ends can be
used
> with the countersink style union we have found that the "bubble ended"
brake
> pipe flare is more reliable.
> It is also important to make the "bubble end" as large as will fit through
the
> threads.
>
> If anyone would like a copy of the SERVICE MEMORANDUM please contact me
off
> line.
>
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From Neil Goodman <Neil.Goodman at seagatesoftware.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 08:11:56 -0800
Subject: RE: BMIHT Certificate & Wheel Paint Question
while we are on this thread,
what have people found to be a good match for the silver paint on the wire
wheels (other than supplied by Moss)?
thanks!
Neil
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brad Weldon [mailto:brad@bradw.com]
> Sent: January 23, 2001 7:48 PM
> To: JBHawkes@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: BMIHT Certificate & Wheel Paint Question
>
>
>
> You find lot's of information about the BMIHT and how to
> order a certificate
> at:
> - http://www.healey.org/production.shtml
>
> While you're there, click around and check out the rest of
> the club website.
>
> Regarding painted steel wheels: Silver-gray is the only color
> that I find
> mentioned in Gary Anderson and Roger Moment's book "Austin-Healey
> 100/100-6/3000 Restoration Guide" (pages 75 and 145).
>
> Brad Weldon
> webmaster, AHCUSA
> http://healey.org/
>
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of JBHawkes@aol.com
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 5:37 PM
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: BMIHT Certificate & Wheel Paint Question
> >
> >
> >
> > Am interested in obtaining BMIHT certificates for my BJ8
> and 100M. Could
> > someone please explain the process or point me to info that would
> > be helpful?
> >
> > Secondly, other than the 100S, were wheels on factory cars ever
> > painted body
> > color rather than silver?
> >
> > TIA
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 11:24:45 EST
Subject: Re: Barrett-Jackson pricing
In a message dated 1/23/01 4:34:43 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< That's an understatement, I think -- Have to look to see what the E-types
and 120s did to see if the whole group is moving up, or just Healeys -- but
two years ago, we thought that $35,000 for a fresh restoration was all the
money in the world, and only a 100M could be worth $50k. >>
Hi Gary
I was at Barrett-Jackson helping a friend of mine with the fourteen cars that
he had there to sell. I only got to drive two of them, an MGTD on late
Friday evening (he was selling this car for a San Diego MG Club member) which
went for about $21K. The second car on late Saturday afternoon was a very
nice dark blue '65 XKE which went for a record $92K. There was quite alot of
buzz around this car an I got nothing but positive coments from potential
bidders and Jaguar people alike.
My friend also had the black '67 BJ8 there which was just restored as a
driver and even he was amazed that it sold in the mid $40K range. He also
had the black '49 Alloy XK 120 Roadster which didn't sell on the block for
$140K, but due to the great exposure that Barrett-Jackson affords I believe
that he may have sold the car later and gotten his price.
One thing to remember is that, one this is an auction and two, this is
Barrett-Jackson where records are often set. Over all the prices seemed to
be down a bit from last year, except for the high end, big block American
Muscle Cars. The overall consensus is that the economy is slowing a bit and
that these are the high prices for the year across the board.
I can tell you that my friend will concentrate on Jaguars and Austin Healeys
this year, given their performance at the auction, but no one really knows
where the market will go.
Cheers
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 11:43:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Barrett-Jackson pricing
I have little experience with Barrett-Jackson, but I have seen here on this
list examples of copy on their website that show that they aren't Healey
experts. Such examples as wrong color names and model notations.
I assume that the cars in question must be concours quality restorations,
perhaps even with a car show history. Surely just being in "great shape"
isn't enough to get such prices, even at an auction obviously directed at
those with more money than sense.
Is it possible to routinely get these sorts of prices for top notch cars?
If so, then a concours quality restoration could well be worth the cost.
(i.e. the finished product is worth somewhere near the investment).
John Cope
BT7 in Waycross, GA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Goode" <mlgoode@msn.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 6:50 PM
Subject: Barrett-Jackson pricing
>
> Just got the sale prices from the Barrett-Jackson
> (www.barrettjackson.com) auction just completed in Scottsdale.
>
> '59 3000 Mark I roadster $50,220
> '60 BN7 roadster $47,520
> '67 BJ8 roadster $48,600
>
> Pretty good appreciation. All of the cars were in great shape and I
> think all were bottom up restorations. Compared to last year, this is
> a big increase. There was one BJ8, professionally restored that went
> for $31K in last years auction.
>
> Mike Goode
> BJ8-Scottsdale.
From Bill Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 12:03:09 -0500
Subject: Re: 100 brakes
The flare on the pipe might not have been properly formed. If you can
stretch the line and form a new one that would be my first attempt. Also
might be damaged threads on the fitting (either side) or the brake pipe
fitting is wrong. Check the length of the unthreaded portion of the
fitting. If it's too long (i.e., a modern fitting) it will prevent the
flared pipe from seating in the wheel cylinder. Modern fittings, at
least the ones that come on the unbent, stock brake line you buy in a
parts store, cannot be used.
Bill Schmidt
BN2 100M
On Tue, 23 Jan 2001 22:11:28 -0800 michael e gougeon
<kaynmike.bham@juno.com> writes:
>
>Getting close to roll-out,but problems cropping up. New brake lines,
>old
>but rebuilt wheel cylinders. Can't seem to stop leaks at rear cylinder
>on
>rt. front . Have lost nerve to tighten the fitting any more (where it
>leaks). Doesn't leak a the rebuild point- that is the seals- just at
>the
>point where the pipe enters the cylinder. Any ideas?
>
>Mike Gougeon
>Bellingham, Wa.
>55 BN2
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 09:08:00 -0800
Subject: RE: Wheel Paint Question
Neil,
For thirty years I've used Rust-Oleum Silver. It will dry a little
glossy, but the gloss fades after about 30 days. Provides a great
finish, with some degree of additional rust protection.
Terry Blubaugh
'60 BT7
what have people found to be a good match for the silver paint on
the wire
wheels (other than supplied by Moss)?
thanks!
Neil
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brad Weldon [mailto:brad@bradw.com]
> Sent: January 23, 2001 7:48 PM
> To: JBHawkes@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: BMIHT Certificate & Wheel Paint Question
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 13:10:01 -0500
Subject: Re: BMIHT Certificate & Wheel Paint Question
Eastwood's Detail Silver is really good although I've not seen good
condition original paint to judge accuracy.
Ed A
-----Original Message-----
From: Neil Goodman <Neil.Goodman@seagatesoftware.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, January 24, 2001 11:15 AM
Subject: RE: BMIHT Certificate & Wheel Paint Question
>
>while we are on this thread,
>
> what have people found to be a good match for the silver paint on
the wire
>wheels (other than supplied by Moss)?
>
>thanks!
>
>Neil
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 11:21:35 -0700
Subject: Re: BMIHT Certificate & Wheel Paint Question
Neil,
Dupont 65751 in Imron or Centari is dead on match to British Wire Wheels
color
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/Sprite
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil Goodman" <Neil.Goodman@seagatesoftware.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2001 9:11 AM
Subject: RE: BMIHT Certificate & Wheel Paint Question
>
> while we are on this thread,
>
> what have people found to be a good match for the silver paint on the
wire
> wheels (other than supplied by Moss)?
>
> thanks!
>
> Neil
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Brad Weldon [mailto:brad@bradw.com]
> > Sent: January 23, 2001 7:48 PM
> > To: JBHawkes@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: RE: BMIHT Certificate & Wheel Paint Question
> >
> >
> >
> > You find lot's of information about the BMIHT and how to
> > order a certificate
> > at:
> > - http://www.healey.org/production.shtml
> >
> > While you're there, click around and check out the rest of
> > the club website.
> >
> > Regarding painted steel wheels: Silver-gray is the only color
> > that I find
> > mentioned in Gary Anderson and Roger Moment's book "Austin-Healey
> > 100/100-6/3000 Restoration Guide" (pages 75 and 145).
> >
> > Brad Weldon
> > webmaster, AHCUSA
> > http://healey.org/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of JBHawkes@aol.com
> > > Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 5:37 PM
> > > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: BMIHT Certificate & Wheel Paint Question
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Am interested in obtaining BMIHT certificates for my BJ8
> > and 100M. Could
> > > someone please explain the process or point me to info that would
> > > be helpful?
> > >
> > > Secondly, other than the 100S, were wheels on factory cars ever
> > > painted body
> > > color rather than silver?
> > >
> > > TIA
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 13:02:29 EST
Subject: Re: Barrett-Jackson pricing
In a message dated 1/23/01 3:53:38 PM Pacific Standard Time, mlgoode@msn.com
writes:
<< Just got the sale prices from the Barrett-Jackson
(www.barrettjackson.com) auction just completed in Scottsdale.
'59 3000 Mark I roadster $50,220
'60 BN7 roadster $47,520
'67 BJ8 roadster $48,600 >>
Hi Mike & All
These are higher prices than I remember them closing out at on the block.
This probably reflects the commission and fees charged on top of the sale
price. The prices that I remember (may be off slightly) them finishing at
are as follows:
'60 BT7 MK 1............$46,500
'59 BN7....................$44,500
'67 BJ8.....................$45,000
There appears to be about a $3,000 difference in each cars final price. I
believe that the commission was 10% on no reserve cars and 12% on cars with a
reserve. This like most things at Barrett-Jackson can be negotiated and if
they, Barrett-Jackson, wants to sell the car bad enough, they will waive the
sellers commission. This is done, especially on high dollar cars to make
Barret-Jackson's final sales total ($) look better. This is primarily done
for sellers that the auction house is familiar with and the seller has to be
sharp enough to negotiate this, usually done during the heat of the sale or
just after.
Cheers
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 10:19:27 -0800
Subject: Car Cover?
Hi Guys,
At the risk of once again going over old ground I am in the
unfortunate position of having to keep my Healey outside in the
elements (at least it is California).
Can anyone recommend a 'great' car cover and contacts as to where to
purchase it.
If this has been done to death please contact of list.
Thanks for the advice in adavance.
Rohan
(BN4)
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 13:40:10 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Stopped running
Especially watch out for the stud on the heel board for the lift-a-dot
fastener on the tonneau cover!!!
Keith Pennell
>If not, try
> thumping on the bulkhead behind the right seat with your fist (but watch
> out for the fuel pump mounting bolts!).
>
> Good luck,
> John
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 14:03:35 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 Stopped running
If you have to bang the bulkhead behind the right seat quite often, you may
consider purchasing a rubber mallet and save the wear and tear on your hand
(Fist).
You may even want to consider mounting an auxiliary fuel pump and have it
ready for use at the flip of a switch. If you are interested in finding out
what parts you will need to make this simple alteration (Not a Concours
modification by any means.) contact me off line and I'll provide you with a
list of the parts.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 14:41:32 -0500
Subject: Mystery bullet connector?
Listers, could use some help on this one.
A little over a year ago after the BN7 got on the road from the resto, a metal
piece appeared on the driver's floor just below the gauges. I have never seen
anything like it in my somewhat limited experience with these cars.
It resembles a bullet connector and is 1/2 inch long and just under 1/8 inch
in its maximum diameter. It is not made of steel. Its color is gray and
shows shiny silver when scraped. It has what looks like a tiny black rubber
or plasrtic piece still inside, cut off at the end. The black piece does not
look like a wire as I can see no copper.
What is it? A piece from one of the gauges?
Keith Pennell
From Bruce Steele <bsteele2 at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 12:18:55 -0800
Subject: Ron Rader please contact off list
Ron, I inadvertantly deleted the info on the Healey event 4/7 at the
Peterson. Please resend to me off the list. It looks interesting.
Bruce
bsteele2@pacbell.net
1960 BN7
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 14:28:39 -0600
Subject: Not Healey Related.....Just a little humor on a cold day.
Got this from a friend:
Subject: more computer viruses
Beware of...
THE AL GORE Virus.... (Causes your computer to just keep counting and
counting)
THE CLINTON Virus.... (Gives you a 7-Inch Hard Drive with NO Memory)
THE BOB DOLE (aka: VIAGRA) virus... (Makes a new hard drive out of an
old floppy)
THE LEWINSKY virus... (Sucks all the memory out of your computer, then
Emails everyone about what it did)
THE RONALD REAGAN virus.... (Saves your data, but forgets where it is
stored)
THE MIKE TYSON virus.... (Quits after two bytes)
THE JACK KEVORKIAN virus... (Deletes all old files)
THE PROZAC virus... (Totally screws up your RAM, but your processor
doesn't care)
THE JOEY BUTTAFUOCO virus... (Only attacks minor files)
THE ARNOLD SCHWARZENEGGER virus... (Terminates some files, leaves, but
will be back)
God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
difference.
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 15:42:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Mystery bullet connector?
Sounds like a schnuzzel bearing inner guide mount to me!! ;-)
Couldn't resist.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Listers, could use some help on this one.
>
> A little over a year ago after the BN7 got on the road from the resto, a metal
> piece appeared on the driver's floor just below the gauges. I have never seen
> anything like it in my somewhat limited experience with these cars.
>
> It resembles a bullet connector and is 1/2 inch long and just under 1/8 inch
> in its maximum diameter. It is not made of steel. Its color is gray and
> shows shiny silver when scraped. It has what looks like a tiny black rubber
> or plasrtic piece still inside, cut off at the end. The black piece does not
> look like a wire as I can see no copper.
>
> What is it? A piece from one of the gauges?
>
> Keith Pennell
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 14:09:33 -0800
Subject: Re: Mystery bullet connector?
Probably could check at this web site on their disussion
board.....http://www.84to96.net/kaleco/ .....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@home.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2001 12:42 PM
Subject: Re: Mystery bullet connector?
>
> Sounds like a schnuzzel bearing inner guide mount to me!! ;-)
>
> Couldn't resist.
>
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
>
> Keith Pennell wrote:
>
> > Listers, could use some help on this one.
> >
> > A little over a year ago after the BN7 got on the road from the resto, a
metal
> > piece appeared on the driver's floor just below the gauges. I have
never seen
> > anything like it in my somewhat limited experience with these cars.
> >
> > It resembles a bullet connector and is 1/2 inch long and just under 1/8
inch
> > in its maximum diameter. It is not made of steel. Its color is gray
and
> > shows shiny silver when scraped. It has what looks like a tiny black
rubber
> > or plasrtic piece still inside, cut off at the end. The black piece
does not
> > look like a wire as I can see no copper.
> >
> > What is it? A piece from one of the gauges?
> >
> > Keith Pennell
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 16:59:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Mystery bullet connector?
that's the same thing i thought it was !!
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
Subject: Mystery bullet connector?
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 15:42:30 -0500
Sounds like a schnuzzel bearing inner guide mount to me!! ;-)
Couldn't resist.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Listers, could use some help on this one.
>
> A little over a year ago after the BN7 got on the road from the resto, a
>metal
> piece appeared on the driver's floor just below the gauges. I have never
>seen
> anything like it in my somewhat limited experience with these cars.
>
> It resembles a bullet connector and is 1/2 inch long and just under 1/8 inch
> in its maximum diameter. It is not made of steel. Its color is gray and
> shows shiny silver when scraped. It has what looks like a tiny black rubber
> or plasrtic piece still inside, cut off at the end. The black piece does not
> look like a wire as I can see no copper.
>
> What is it? A piece from one of the gauges?
>
> Keith Pennell
From Steve Tidwell <sbtidwell at qualcomm.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 14:59:36 -0800
Subject: RE: First Healey soon
Jae,
As far as being in a much better position because I own a 356, well all I
can say is you havent seen my car. I have owned many cars over the years
and several of them have been British. I have always enjoyed the British
cars (although there was one Spitfire that I may have been better off
without). I have been driving the 356 for about four years, it runs fine
and has great lines but really needs a complete restoration. When I was a
kid the group I ran around with were mostly into MG's, Triumph's, and
Austin Healey's. I was a triumph guy but always wanted a Healey,
unfortunately they were out of my price bracket. Well now that I am a
little better off, I was looking into having my Porsche restored but didn't
feel the connection to the 356 that I have to British cars to pour that
much money into it. So I started thinking British again. I made the
decision that I would much rather have the Healey I could never own when I
was younger. Since my first email to the A/H group I have had several
people from the San Diego Healey club contact me with advice and support. I
have ordered several books and lined up a couple of cars to look at this
weekend. There no stopping me now. The biggest problem now is that when I
go to look at these cars my eyes glaze over and all I can see is me roaring
down the lane with the wind in my hair and bugs in my teeth.
Steve
At 11:36 AM 1/24/01 -0800, Jae Lee wrote:
>very well said paul,
>
>steve, when i was in your shoes about 8 months ago, i was in a much more
>precarious situation. this was going to be my first step into classic
>english cars, well classic cars in general. i read you owned a 356 porsche,
>so your in a much better position than i was.
>
>i researched on healeys for 6 months while at the same time searching for my
>car. get your hands on books, magazines, join a local healey car club (there
>are 3 in southern calif), visit collector car dealerships (i.e. european
>classics / chequered flag). arm yourself with as much information as you
>can, you don't have to understand everything. the best advice i can give you
>is to make sure your online, and keep your eyes on hemmings, collector car
>trader, and the recycler on a daily, if not weekly basis.
>
>one advantage you inherently have is that southern calif is a mecca for
>classic cars, especially in regards to information, owners, parts, and
>service.
>
>one final advice is to make sure that you know exactly what kind of car you
>want and be patient, very very patient. these cars especially the 100 are
>not easy to find. i believe you are looking for a bn2, and bn2s are much
>more difficult than bn1s. just simple statistics, 100s where made from '53
>to '56, 10,030 bn1s and only 4,604 bn2s were built. much easier to find a
>3000 series, but you don't want one of those.
>
>also i absolutely agree with paul: "When you drive the Healey for the
>first time, it'll put such a smile on your face that it will all have been
>worth it ... and that smile will recur every time you drive the car!!!"
>
>good luck and be patient,
>
>jae
>'54 bn1
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
>[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Paul Negus
>Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2001 5:02 AM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Cc: Steve Tidwell
>Subject: First Healey soon
>
>
>
>Steve
>
>You may not have been swamped with messages as this subject
>has been chewed over many times on this list! (The archives are
>well worth a search).
>
>However, at the risk of boring the "old hands", here are some more
>general suggestions:
>
>1. Join your local Healey Club and go to their meets. Talk to as
>many owners as you can. This will give invaluable advice,
>especially on the pitfalls.
>
>2. The better cars (excluding concours and ex-works that often go
>to auction in the hope of a very high price!) are usually not
>advertised - they change hands by word of mouth - see 1.
>
>3. Hopefully you will meet nearby enthusiasts who will show you
>how the car should behave on the road and can point out the usual
>rust areas and body rebuild botches. They might even offer to look
>over cars with you!
>
>4. It's been said many times but bears repeating - rust is the
>number 1 problem with these cars. Beware descriptions such as
>'needs a respray', 'minor rust', 'tlc required', etc.
>
>5. Finally, don't be put off by dire warnings of what can go wrong
>with a poorly looked after car. When you drive the Healey for the
>first time, it'll put such a smile on your face that it will all have been
>worth it ... and that smile will recur every time you drive the car!!!
>
>Best of luck in finding a suitable Healey!
>
>Regards
>
>Paul
From "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6 at mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 18:37:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Car Cover?
Check out the current issue of British Car magazine. On page 65 is all the
skinny on car covers, by Gary Anderson.
Larry Mercier
BN6
AN5
AN6
AN8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rohan Marr" <rohan@marketocracy.com>
To: "Healey, List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2001 1:19 PM
Subject: Car Cover?
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> At the risk of once again going over old ground I am in the
> unfortunate position of having to keep my Healey outside in the
> elements (at least it is California).
>
> Can anyone recommend a 'great' car cover and contacts as to where to
> purchase it.
>
> If this has been done to death please contact of list.
>
> Thanks for the advice in adavance.
> Rohan
> (BN4)
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 19:25:15 EST
Subject: Re: Barrett-Jackson pricing
Curt,
Do you happen to know whether the yellow BN1-based, tube framed, chevy motored
Healey sold and if so, for how much? Here's the one I mean:
http://www.hemmings.com/dealers/getphotos.cfm?DEALERLISTINGID=15204&dealer=222
&src=1&CLICKSRC=classified%5Fdealer%3A%20Barrett%2DJackson%20Scottsdale%20Auct
ion
I looked through the B-J results, but couldn't find it. Traditionalists
wouldn't be crazy for it, but it sure had a lot of intrigue for those of us
who enjoy what I like to call, the "dark side" of Healeying.
Happy Healeying
Rick
In a message dated 1/24/01 11:30:19 AM, CNAArndt@aol.com writes:
<<I was at Barrett-Jackson helping a friend of mine with the fourteen cars
that
he had there to sell. I only got to drive two of them, an MGTD on late
Friday evening (he was selling this car for a San Diego MG Club member) which
went for about $21K. The second car on late Saturday afternoon was a very
nice dark blue '65 XKE which went for a record $92K. There was quite alot of
buzz around this car an I got nothing but positive coments from potential
bidders and Jaguar people alike.
My friend also had the black '67 BJ8 there which was just restored as a
driver and even he was amazed that it sold in the mid $40K range. He also
had the black '49 Alloy XK 120 Roadster which didn't sell on the block for
$140K, but due to the great exposure that Barrett-Jackson affords I believe
that he may have sold the car later and gotten his price.
One thing to remember is that, one this is an auction and two, this is
Barrett-Jackson where records are often set. Over all the prices seemed to
be down a bit from last year, except for the high end, big block American
Muscle Cars. The overall consensus is that the economy is slowing a bit and
that these are the high prices for the year across the board.
I can tell you that my friend will concentrate on Jaguars and Austin Healeys
this year, given their performance at the auction, but no one really knows
where the market will go.
Cheers
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
------>>
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 19:27:20 EST
Subject: Re: (OT) I want to be a millionaire
Amy
Any tips on how I can get on Temptation Island? ;-)
Rick
In a message dated 1/24/01 7:11:22 PM, walters@mail.softcom.net writes:
<<I have been a fan of the game show "Who Wants To Be a Millionaire" since it
> first aired in the U.S. in August of 1999. On January 18th I had the
> opportunity to go to New York and see if I had what it took.
>
> The show that was taped that day will air on January 31. I'm not allowed to
> tell anyone whether I actually got to sit in the hot seat and test my mental
> mettle, but I can say that I hope you'll watch the show and that you won't
> berate me too very much if you know more than I do. I can also say that as
> I've watched the show, I thought that if Regis ever asked me what hobby I
> enjoyed, I would certainly have to tell him about my 1959 Austin-Healey
> Sprite.
>
> It will be a long week waiting for the show to air, but I do hope my fellow
> Healey fans will tune in to see if I represent them well!
>
> Amy
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 21:03:50 -0500
Subject: Parts Needed
Need an oil pan (sump) for a BJ8---want one in excellent condition--no
patches, etc. Hopefully someone has one they can part with.
Need the low tone horn for the Bj8 also.
Contact me at tfelts@prodigy.net
Thanks
Tom
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 18:21:29 -0700
Subject: Re: First Healey soon
Actually Steve, the lowered position of the windscreen is strictly optional.
Don't be discouraged and don't get in too much of a hurry. the right car is out
there.
Good hunting.
Bill Lawrence
Steve Tidwell wrote:
> << all I can see is me roaring
> down the lane with the wind in my hair and bugs in my teeth.>>
>
> Steve
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 18:49:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Un unexpected restoration
I saw a Healey in a body shop several years ago with a gorgeous (red of course)
paint job but with no door gap. on investigation I found that the rotted rear
inner fenders (which looked quite sound from a few feet) had been patched with
poster board and covered with undercoating. The new owner had paid a lot for
the shiny exterior but had failed to notice the substructure. Anyone for a very
expensive lace doily?
Bill Lawrence
Coop1 wrote:
> Greetings listers
> I suppose it has happened to many of you. You deliver the car for a simple
> re-paint or minor body work and soon discover a shocking problem lies just
> beneath the skin.
>
> After removal of the body panels in prep for painting we discovered some
> pretty amazing stuff. Due to a poorly executed post-accident (many owners
> ago) chassis fix, the frame geometry was off by 3/4". The passenger side
> door sill was fabricated incorrectly and had thus been cleverly shimmed with
> WOOD. The rear fenders had been WELDED to the door pillars instead of
> bolted (don't ask). Yes folks, we had a situation. Once I had digested all
> the bad news, which was coming daily (and decided which bank to rob), I
> concluded that there was only one thing to do: strip that sucker down to
> it's underwear and put it back together again, only this time, do it right!
>
> All of the identified defects have been properly fixed (and beautifully I
> might add) and she's now waiting for paint (Healey Blue/OEW). I have taken
> a bunch of pics of the process. If anyone is interested in wasting a little
> time looking at pictures of a dusty half naked BJ8, I invite you to take a
> peek (no one's ever seen pics like those before, right?) I'll post the
> final pics when the paint and component detailing is complete.
> Randy Harris aka "Coop" ('66 BJ8)
>
> http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=222976&a=9804286
From Steve Tidwell <sbtidwell at qualcomm.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 18:05:19 -0800
Subject: Car inspector?
Anybody in the Prescott Az. area willing to check out a BN2 for me?
Steve Tidwell
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 20:13:17 -0600
Subject: Re: (OT) I want to be a millionaire
"YOU go girl!"....................HoYo
yo
Amy Turner wrote:
> I have been a fan of the game show "Who Wants To Be a Millionaire" since it
> first aired in the U.S. in August of 1999. On January 18th I had the
> opportunity to go to New York and see if I had what it took.
>
> The show that was taped that day will air on January 31. I'm not allowed to
> tell anyone whether I actually got to sit in the hot seat and test my mental
> mettle, but I can say that I hope you'll watch the show and that you won't
> berate me too very much if you know more than I do. I can also say that as
> I've watched the show, I thought that if Regis ever asked me what hobby I
> enjoyed, I would certainly have to tell him about my 1959 Austin-Healey
> Sprite.
>
> It will be a long week waiting for the show to air, but I do hope my fellow
> Healey fans will tune in to see if I represent them well!
>
> Amy
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 19:04:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Nuts & Bolts
If the bolts are loose then the bolt working in the nut will tend to wear them
both out. If you find a worn bolt you will normally replace it. you can't do
that
as easily with a captive nut.
Bill Lawrence
skip wrote:
> ok... I stand corrected... but I am further puzzled by the fact that it always
> seems it is the nuts that are gone on the shock towers... I seldom hear about
> the bolts being stripped.
>
> -Skip-
>
> Steve Gerow wrote:
>
> > Hello Listers,
> >
> > FWIW--Nuts are a lot stronger than bolts. If you use a high strength nut
> > with the same bolt the force is not distributed on the threads evenly and
> > they strip one at a time. Normal engineering practice is to use softer nuts.
> >
> > I read this in a fascinating book on aviation fasteners left me by my
> > father, a one-time airframe mechanic.
> > --
> > Steve Gerow
> > Pasadena CA
> > 59 BN6
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 19:34:19 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 Stopped running
No problem as long as your carpet is red.
Bill Lawrence
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Especially watch out for the stud on the heel board for the lift-a-dot
> fastener on the tonneau cover!!!
>
> Keith Pennell
> >If not, try
> > thumping on the bulkhead behind the right seat with your fist (but watch
> > out for the fuel pump mounting bolts!).
> >
> > Good luck,
> > John
From "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 21:57:23 -0500
Subject: Re: (OT) I want to be a millionaire
I, for one, do not care for the show but nothing will make me miss this one.
Hopefully you will get onto the hot seat but if you don't, at least we know
that "one of us" is on the stage.
Go get 'em Amy
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Howard Young" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "Amy Turner" <ltturner@usit.net>
Cc: "Spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "Big Healeys"
<healeys@autox.team.net>; "SMAHC" <smahc@egroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2001 9:13 PM
Subject: Re: (OT) I want to be a millionaire
>
> "YOU go girl!"....................HoYo
>
> yo
>
> Amy Turner wrote:
>
> > I have been a fan of the game show "Who Wants To Be a Millionaire" since
it
> > first aired in the U.S. in August of 1999. On January 18th I had the
> > opportunity to go to New York and see if I had what it took.
> >
> > The show that was taped that day will air on January 31. I'm not
allowed to
> > tell anyone whether I actually got to sit in the hot seat and test my
mental
> > mettle, but I can say that I hope you'll watch the show and that you
won't
> > berate me too very much if you know more than I do. I can also say that
as
> > I've watched the show, I thought that if Regis ever asked me what hobby
I
> > enjoyed, I would certainly have to tell him about my 1959 Austin-Healey
> > Sprite.
> >
> > It will be a long week waiting for the show to air, but I do hope my
fellow
> > Healey fans will tune in to see if I represent them well!
> >
> > Amy
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 19:56:56 -0800
Subject: Re: engine parts
I bougth a bunch of internal engine parts from British Parts Northwest. The
usually have an ad in Chatter. Great service and no complaints.
BTW I get 90% of the order value in cash and free parts for life if you
mention my name when you order from them. Just kidding, usual disclaimers.
John
'62 BT7 MKII
At 07:52 PM 1/22/01 -0500, Dennis Broughel wrote:
>i'm starting to make arrangements to have my Bn-4-2 port engine rebuilt
>. The shop I have chosen has a very good reputation, but hasn't rebuilt
>a vintage british engine in 5 or 6 years. I need to know where to get
>possible internal parts i.e. rings, lifters etc.
>The shop foreman also mentioned something about hardened exhaust valve
>seats due to the use of unleaded gas ? Any info would be gratefully
>appreciated.
>Thanks Dennis Broughel Troy,N.Y.
>1957 Bn4
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 19:53:36 -0800
Subject: Re: Idling Problems Pt 3
I am not sure what carbs you have but I had a similar problem with HS4's. I
could not get the idle down. Upon very close examination, i.e. holding
carbs up to a light while they were off the car I realized that the buttery
fly valves were worn. It did not appear to be much but replacing just the
buttery fly's solved the problem.
John
'62 BT7 tricarb
At 04:23 PM 1/22/01 -0500, Gold1434@aol.com wrote:
> Ok, with the throttle linkage disconnected from the throttle shaft
>which connects the two carbs, it seems the consensus for the idling problem
>was the butterfly valves. I checked them and both appeared closed. Put
>everything back together and cranked her up and she idled at 2000 and slowly
>moved up to approx. 3100 during the course of four minutes. I was hoping
>that I had blown some debris out of the valves during the process, but no
>luck.
> All the screws on the throttle shaft (I count three) have been backed
>off their stop and it still has no effect until I begin to tighten them down,
>obviously.
> Got any other ideas?
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 21:21:53 -0800
Subject: Re: 100 brakes
One other item to check is the pipe seam. Steel brake lines have a seam
(welded I guess?) that can split when flared. This happened to me and it
drove me crazy because it leak through the back of the fitting after I
filed the ridges off, etc., ad nauseam.
John
'62 BT7 MKII
At 10:11 PM 1/23/01 -0800, michael e gougeon wrote:
>Getting close to roll-out,but problems cropping up. New brake lines, old
>but rebuilt wheel cylinders. Can't seem to stop leaks at rear cylinder on
>rt. front . Have lost nerve to tighten the fitting any more (where it
>leaks). Doesn't leak a the rebuild point- that is the seals- just at the
>point where the pipe enters the cylinder. Any ideas?
>
>Mike Gougeon
>Bellingham, Wa.
>55 BN2
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 09:18:37 EST
Subject: Battery question
Hi Listers,
I have a neighbor that is in the process of installing the 2 batteries in his
Healey. His question is how do the cables connect? Especially between the
two batteries? I can't help him as my books only show the one battery hookup
and both my cars have only one battery.
Thanks,
Rudy Streng
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 09:54:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Battery question
Hi Rudy,
Depends upon which batteries he is using.
If they are 6 volt as original in BN1,2,6 and 7 the batteries are hooked up in
series. That means, starting from the ground point (or through the master switch
to ground)... Ground - 1st battery +ve through the battery to 1st battery -ve
.... cable to 2nd battery +ve, through battery to 2nd battery -ve ...... to
which the cable that goes to the starter solenoid connects.
If you are using 2 x 12 volt batteries the +ve terminals of both batteries are
connected directly to ground (or through the master switch to ground) and both
the -ve terminals are connected to the cable that goes to the starter solenoid
connects.
Pictures at 11..... :-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
> Hi Listers,
> I have a neighbor that is in the process of installing the 2 batteries in his
> Healey. His question is how do the cables connect? Especially between the
> two batteries? I can't help him as my books only show the one battery hookup
> and both my cars have only one battery.
> Thanks,
> Rudy Streng
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 09:00:21 -0600
Subject: Re: Battery question
CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
> Hi Listers,
> I have a neighbor that is in the process of installing the 2 batteries in his
> Healey. His question is how do the cables connect? Especially between the
> two batteries? I can't help him as my books only show the one battery hookup
> and both my cars have only one battery.
> Thanks,
> Rudy Streng
Well, unless he wants a 24 volt system, the batteries should be hooked in
parallel. That is both + together and both - together. Think parallel and it
is
easy. Conversely, "in series" is + to -, or end to end. This will result in 24
volts and I'm pretty sure your neighbor doesn't want that.
If your neighbor is into a spare battery situation or an extra for accessories
like an RV, then you need more help than I can provide.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 10:14:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Battery question
If two six volts in series - Batt 1 positive to Batt 2 negative.
If two twelve volts in parallel - Batt 1 positive to Batt 2
positive and Batt 1 negative to Batt 2 negative.
Mike L
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: January 25, 2001 9:18 AM
Subject: Battery question
>
> Hi Listers,
> I have a neighbor that is in the process of installing the 2
batteries in his
> Healey. His question is how do the cables connect? Especially
between the
> two batteries? I can't help him as my books only show the one
battery hookup
> and both my cars have only one battery.
> Thanks,
> Rudy Streng
From GNpaper at aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 10:20:15 EST
Subject: Re: Fuse question
Hi listers,
As long as were talking electrical I have a question on my BJ8.
What is the best way to fuse the entire lighting circuit? Where to place the
fuse or fuses, and what should the fuse be rated for?
Thanks,
Dan Brooks
67' BJ8
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 08:40:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Idling Problems Pt 3
Mr. Gold,
Break the connection between the two throttle shafts. It is likely that one
butterfly is being held open by the other shaft.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/Sprite
----- Original Message -----
From: "john spaur" <jmsdarch@infoasis.com>
To: <Gold1434@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2001 8:53 PM
Subject: Re: Idling Problems Pt 3
>
> I am not sure what carbs you have but I had a similar problem with HS4's.
I
> could not get the idle down. Upon very close examination, i.e. holding
> carbs up to a light while they were off the car I realized that the
buttery
> fly valves were worn. It did not appear to be much but replacing just the
> buttery fly's solved the problem.
>
> John
> '62 BT7 tricarb
>
> At 04:23 PM 1/22/01 -0500, Gold1434@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Ok, with the throttle linkage disconnected from the throttle
shaft
> >which connects the two carbs, it seems the consensus for the idling
problem
> >was the butterfly valves. I checked them and both appeared closed. Put
> >everything back together and cranked her up and she idled at 2000 and
slowly
> >moved up to approx. 3100 during the course of four minutes. I was hoping
> >that I had blown some debris out of the valves during the process, but no
> >luck.
> > All the screws on the throttle shaft (I count three) have been
backed
> >off their stop and it still has no effect until I begin to tighten them
down,
> >obviously.
> > Got any other ideas?
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 11:47:26 EST
Subject: Re: Battery question
You only need to concern yourself as to wether you have positive or negative
ground? If you have positive ground the negative terminal on the battery on
the passanger side connects to the starter solenoid, the positive terminal on
the battery on the drivers side connects to the battery switch. The positive
and negative terminals that remain will get connected together. If you want
negative ground you just reverse the procedure.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 12:24:15 EST
Subject: Re: Battery question
Battery cable from starter comes down the right frame rail and up to the
right side of the right battery. Short cable connects the other pole of that
battery to the opposite pole of the other battery. Then the left-hand battery
connects with a short cable to the cut-off switch which is mounted through
the bulkhead from the boot. Ground connection between the cut-out switch and
the chassis. Of course, if you're setting it up traditionally, the starter
cable hooks to a negative terminal, and the positive terminal of the other
battery hooks to the cut-out switch. Opposite set-up if you're running
negative ground. On the 4-cylinder cars, the cable connecting the two
batteries runs through a harness clip screwed to the center rear of the
battery door opening. On the 6-cylinder cars, it's loose.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 15:43:42 -0800
Subject: Re: Transmission Parts for BJ8
David: You Might Check Out EBAY I Just Noticed That there are some BJ8 Gears
for sale ! I Don't know anything about them
"Murphy, David (Southfield)" wrote:
> 1)My '66 BJ8 occasionally jumps out of second gear when the throttle is
> released. Does anyone know what is the likely cause and fix?
>
> (There appears to be some axial and radial play in the 2nd gear on the
> mainshaft and the little spring loaded balls that hold the synchro against
> the gear don't seem to create much resistance to the synchro
> engagement/disengagement.)
>
> 2)Does anyone know a source for new mainshaft gears (particularly second
> (which jumps out) and first (which is chipped)) and layshaft gearset for
> 1966 BJ8?
>
> ( Moss and Victoria British show a most of these parts to be made of
> unobtanium.)
>
> 3)How important is it from a wear point of view to replace all the mainshaft
> and input shaft gears when the layshaft gearset is replaced?
>
> Dave Murphy
> '66 BJ8, '76 TR6
From tom Blaskovics <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 16:07:39 -0500
Subject: screw types
Hi listers,
I am finishing up my new top for the BJ7. I had to replace the handle for
the header
rail (Moss part 803-440), Could any of you that have a BJ7 or a BJ8 let me
know
whether or not the screws that hold the handle on to the header rail are
phillips,
flat heads or positronix (sp?) the size and whether they were chromed or not.
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Back on the Road in July
MB 450 SL
Morgantown, WV
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 16:43:28 -0600
Subject: Mini lite wheels
I have received several inquiries about putting together another group
purchase of mini lite wheels - either centre lock (knock off) or bolt on.
Wheels available for big Healey, sprite and triumphs. I've done this once
a year for the last two years. Prices are very good.
Please contact me off list if you would be interested. I have to have an
order of ten sets to make the price work. Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 15:52:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Fuse question
I think the best thing is not to fuse the entire circuit with a single
fuse. If you do, and it blows, your are left in the dark; besides,
you would have to use a fuse capable of passing all the current for
all the lights at once, which might not be good protection if your
rear license plate light wire shorts out. Unless you are trying to
stay concours you might consider fusing the rear lights with one fuse,
the fronts with three: high beams, low beams, and signal/parking. If
you are compulsive, consider fusing each side of the front headlights'
high and low beams separately. Use the lowest ampacity of fuse that
won't blow in normal operation.
-Roland
On Thu, 25 Jan 2001 10:20:15 EST, GNpaper@aol.com wrote:
::
:: Hi listers,
:: As long as were talking electrical I have a question on my BJ8.
:: What is the best way to fuse the entire lighting circuit? Where to place the
:: fuse or fuses, and what should the fuse be rated for?
::
:: Thanks,
:: Dan Brooks
:: 67' BJ8
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 16:20:44 -0800
Subject: RE: Fuse question
I use a great big relay made by Standard Parts. It has two fuses inside of
it. It looks sort of like the turnsignal/brakelight relay. I put it on the
opposite inner fender as the turnsignal relay.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: GNpaper@aol.com [mailto:GNpaper@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2001 7:20 AM
To: bugide@solve.net; CAWS52803@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Fuse question
Hi listers,
As long as were talking electrical I have a question on my BJ8.
What is the best way to fuse the entire lighting circuit? Where to place the
fuse or fuses, and what should the fuse be rated for?
Thanks,
Dan Brooks
67' BJ8
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 20:18:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuse question
IMHO. A short to ground will blow a 40 amp fuse just as quickly as a 10 amp
fuse.
When you get a fault in an automotive electrical system it never seems to be a
little bit of a fault (one exception perhaps is a seized motor). Shorts to
ground,
the thing that we are trying to protect the harness from, are a bit like being
pregnant, you is or you ain't. If you is, the short will blow any fuse, if you
ain't you it won't.
Where do I pay my 2c...?
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
> I think the best thing is not to fuse the entire circuit with a single
> fuse. If you do, and it blows, your are left in the dark; besides,
> you would have to use a fuse capable of passing all the current for
> all the lights at once, which might not be good protection if your
> rear license plate light wire shorts out. Unless you are trying to
> stay concours you might consider fusing the rear lights with one fuse,
> the fronts with three: high beams, low beams, and signal/parking. If
> you are compulsive, consider fusing each side of the front headlights'
> high and low beams separately. Use the lowest ampacity of fuse that
> won't blow in normal operation.
>
> -Roland
>
> On Thu, 25 Jan 2001 10:20:15 EST, GNpaper@aol.com wrote:
>
> ::
> :: Hi listers,
> :: As long as were talking electrical I have a question on my BJ8.
> :: What is the best way to fuse the entire lighting circuit? Where to place
>the
> :: fuse or fuses, and what should the fuse be rated for?
> ::
> :: Thanks,
> :: Dan Brooks
> :: 67' BJ8
From MossHale at aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 20:23:20 EST
Subject: Batteries
Is there a good reason for Positive ground? Is there a benefit to switching
to Negative ground, other than it is a current US standard and eliminates
having to give thought to attaching a charger.
Hale
BN7
From Sprite60 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 20:58:55 EST
Subject: Re: Pulling a trailer with your Austin Healey
When loading your trailer there should be about 10% of the total weight of
the trailer and load on the hitch. This will change after you reach 500 lbs.
If you don't have enough weight, the trailer can sway. Its lots of fun on
the highway. If you have to much on the hitch, you take weight off the front
wheels, and they could bounce over bumps. That's fun too. With a vehicle,
an inch or two movement can make the difference in weight distribution. Just
moving the spare from the back to the front of the trailer can be
significant. You may have to experiment or use a scale to measure the tongue
weight. LARRY G
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 19:34:05 -0600
Subject: Re: Batteries
<<Is there a good reason for Positive ground?>>
Nope.
Unless, of course, you are "smarter" than Mack Truck, White, Peterbuilt,
Kenworth, Marmon, etal..
Just my HO.
Cheers...........
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey) (+grd)(still)
PS: And, of course, Dr. Lucas<G>!!
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 21:23:27 EST
Subject: Re: Batteries
Kaler writes <<Is there a good reason for Positive ground?>>Nope.Unless, of
course, you are "smarter" than Mack Truck, White, Peterbuilt,
Kenworth, Marmon, etal..>>
That brings up a good point. Some truck manufacturers still use positive
ground. So the next time you are shopping for a CB or other radio check your
local truck stop. Uniden makes products for the truckers market that are
positive ground and perfect to use in your Healey.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
Visit my Bluegrass Austin Healey Club site at bluegrassclub.com
And visit my British Sports Car Club of KY site at britishsportscarclub.com.
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 20:38:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Batteries
<<That brings up a good point. Some truck manufacturers still use positive
ground. So the next time you are shopping for a CB or other radio check your
local truck stop. Uniden makes products for the truckers market that are
positive ground and perfect to use in your Healey.>>
Ditto, Radio Shack, Jim. Stereos even!!
Ed
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 19:20:37 -0800
Subject: Re: Fuse question
I wouldn't argue with experience on size of fuses (though I do wonder
why all cars don't just have nothing but 40 amp fuses and breakers) ,
but I still like more than one fuse cuz I don't like driving in the
dark;-)
-Roland
On Thu, 25 Jan 2001 20:18:25 -0500, Krazy Kiwi <magicare@home.com>
wrote:
::
:: IMHO. A short to ground will blow a 40 amp fuse just as quickly as a 10 amp
:fuse.
:: When you get a fault in an automotive electrical system it never seems to be
:a
:: little bit of a fault (one exception perhaps is a seized motor). Shorts to
:ground,
:: the thing that we are trying to protect the harness from, are a bit like
:being
:: pregnant, you is or you ain't. If you is, the short will blow any fuse, if
:you
:: ain't you it won't.
::
:: Where do I pay my 2c...?
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 21:47:54 -0600
Subject: Australia Day
Patrick, Larry, John and all the other Healey guys in Australia
have a good time celebrating and have a pint for us Healey guys
in the Great White North snow and ice bound waiting for the smell
of Castrol and the mellow exhaust tones of our Healeys!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
From "Greg Monfort" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 22:52:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Batteries
No, unless you're particular about whether you want
the current to flow from the point of entry of your
body to your feet/ground (positive gnd), or vice
versa (negative gnd), when you get careless around a
DC system. :^))
GM
----- Original Message -----
>
> Is there a good reason for Positive ground? Is
there a benefit to switching
> to Negative ground, other than it is a current US
standard and eliminates
> having to give thought to attaching a charger.
>
> Hale
> BN7
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 22:51:31 EST
Subject: Healey Hot wheel update
after searching and searching at every store I go to, I finally found a
Healey Hot Wheel here in Sheboygan, WI. I also found the Mini Cooper (which
had been alluding me as well). I have enjoyed picking up some of the Isetta
ones also, now if they'd only get the other cars I have, that'd be cool!
Be patient, they'll show up. I was about ready to think about getting one
off of E bay.
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!)
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 22:57:10 EST
Subject: Re: Fuse question
I once remember reading that the original Lucas fuses had a different method
of rating than American fuses. So a 40 amp Lucas was not directly comparable
to a 40 amp Buss. As I recall a 40 amp Lucas blew instantly at 40 amps load
but only lasted a short time (seconds) at 30. Can anyone clarify this?
Me, I use 20 amp fuses in the original fuse block (and they never blow) and
an auxiliary Lucas four fuse unit from an MGB mounted under the dash for all
my radios and driving lights. Probably doesn't matter, a dead short will blow
a 20 amp or a 40 amp fuse but it gives me a needed false sense of security.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
Visit my Bluegrass Austin Healey Club site at bluegrassclub.com
And visit my British Sports Car Club of KY site at britishsportscarclub.com.
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 21:52:11 -0800
Subject: Re: Australia Day
At 9:47 PM -0600 1/25/01, M.E.&E.A. Driver wrote:
>Patrick, Larry, John and all the other Healey guys in Australia
>have a good time celebrating and have a pint for us Healey guys
>in the Great White North snow and ice bound waiting for the smell
>of Castrol and the mellow exhaust tones of our Healeys!
>
>Kind regards
>Ed
>Saskatoon
Yeah boys .. have a few for me too .. I will be holding up the Aussie
flag here in Los Altos (Silicon Valley, CA) .. don't think there are
too many other Aussies over here and on the list?
Onya fellas
Rohan.
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 11:14:59 -0800
Subject: Re: Fuse question
Dan--you can't fuse the entire lighting circuit--the parking lamps and the head
lamsp are on different circuits. If you do nothing else, fuse the parking
lamps. Pull the red wire attached to terminal S1 in back of the lighting switch
and insert a 15-amp in-line fuse. This will cure one of the more egregious
electrical failings of the entire Healey line--no protection from a short in the
trunk or the chassis harness. (I also fuse the trunk harness for added
safety--15 amps.) Fusing the headlamp circuits is another matter. You could do
so by pulling the wire leading off terminal S2 of the lighting switch--that's
power to the dip switch. If the fuse were to blow, however, at night, you would
have NO lights. Not a good place. The best thing would be to insert two
fuses--one in the high-beam circuit and one in the low beams. Fuse both with
in-line fuses where the pigtail running to the dip switch connects to the main
harness on the firewall just behind the engine. --John Trifari 1955 BN1/1965
BJ8
GNpaper@aol.com wrote:
> Hi listers,
> As long as were talking electrical I have a question on my BJ8.
> What is the best way to fuse the entire lighting circuit? Where to place the
> fuse or fuses, and what should the fuse be rated for?
>
> Thanks,
> Dan Brooks
> 67' BJ8
From njones at amadeus.net
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 09:55:41 +0100
Subject: Batteries-Positive ground
I remember reading a while ago that in England in the 30s-60s time frame many
cars were positive ground
because of the better results with salt/water corrosion on the aluminium and
steel structures.
It was better to have a +ve anode in a salty solution as it produced less
corrosion than with an -ve earth sytem.
This is what I read...has anyone else heard of this..?
BN7 still positive ground and no corrosion..
Nick Jones,Munich,Germany
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 21:43:07 -0800
Subject: Re: Australia Day
Thanks Ed, and Rohan I think there are quite a few Aussies on the list,
they just don't talk much. And while it may be a bit cold for getting
out in the Healey up there it is ideal Healey weather down here..... if
only it was finished....Still, a glass or two of one of our great Yarra
Valley wines numbs the pain
Cheers
Larry
"M.E.&E.A. Driver" wrote:
> Patrick, Larry, John and all the other Healey guys in Australia
> have a good time celebrating and have a pint for us Healey guys
> in the Great White North snow and ice bound waiting for the smell
> of Castrol and the mellow exhaust tones of our Healeys!
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 08:06:19 +0000
Subject: Re: Battery question
>If two six volts in series - Batt 1 positive to Batt 2 negative.
>
>If two twelve volts in parallel - Batt 1 positive to Batt 2
>positive and Batt 1 negative to Batt 2 negative.
>
Running two batteries in parallel is not normally considered a good
idea. Any slight difference in characteristics will result in one
working against the other so as to get the worst of "both worlds".
Major problems can occur when the batteries near the end of their life.
If for example a cell goes down on one battery the other battery will
try to compensate. In fact high circulating currents can result which
turn into heat!
In emergency two batteries can be run together but if this to be a
permanent arrangement then it is best to purchase the batteries together
with the same make and specifications. They should then be kept together
for the rest of their working life. However on our cars this should not
be necessary anyway.
All the best
--
John Harper
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 07:54:25 EST
Subject: Battery Question
Hi Listers,
I want to thank all of you that responded with a variety of correct
solutions. One interesting comment was made by a local high school student
who said it was the same as putting two batteries into a flashlight.
Maybe we make life more complicated than it should be.
Rudy Streng in NC
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 07:11:06 -0600
Subject: Batteries in parallel
God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
difference.
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 07:14:36 -0600
Subject: Batteries in parallel
I found out the hard way that batteries in parallel is not a good idea.
I had an old battery that was giving me trouble, constantly needed
recharging. I had another battery that was good but wouldn't crank the
newly rebuilt engine very long, thus it wouldn't start.
I connected the two batteries.
The combination of the two was worse than either of the two separate.
Finally got a new battery with enough cold cranking amps to do the job and
put it in the trunk.
Don
BN7
God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
difference.
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 08:18:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Australia Day
Go for it West Island11 ;-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
"M.E.&E.A. Driver" wrote:
> Patrick, Larry, John and all the other Healey guys in Australia
> have a good time celebrating and have a pint for us Healey guys
> in the Great White North snow and ice bound waiting for the smell
> of Castrol and the mellow exhaust tones of our Healeys!
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon
From busyrider at springmail.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 08:40:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Battery Question
Rudy,
(?) You asked the question.
Fred
On Fri, 26 Jan 2001 07:54:25 EST CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
Hi Listers,
I want to thank all of you that responded with a variety of correct
solutions. One interesting comment was made by a local high school student
who said it was the same as putting two batteries into a flashlight.
Maybe we make life more complicated than it should be.
Rudy Streng in NC
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 07:52:55 -0600
Subject: Bugeye LSR car
Well for all the talk over the years.... I still did not have the BODY that
represented the Bugeye that I want to race at Bonneville.... Yesterday.... I
solved that Problem... I picked up what is going to become the Next Austin
Healey Land Speed racer....
What a gas... this thing is semi restorable if you want to build a new front
end and find a new bonnet... you might have to replace both back quarters
and install new Floors... oh and it's lacking a drivetrain.... but other
then that it's a complete car...
In other words it's Perfect.... a NON restorable Bugeye...exactly what I
have been looking for but not so far gone that it can't donate it's body for
my race car....
First Goal.... get the front suspension out of one of my junk Midgets and
get it back on four wheels.... install a 948 that I have laying around and
ribcage.... make it run.... Patch the floors JUST enough to be safe and
clean it all up.... Then we are going to take it up to Maxton and see if we
can't set the record in the 1 liter Production class ..... it's an open
record so I think we can get it at say 70mph or so.... In otherwords it's
Very First outting it's going to run as a Pure Bugeye.... ( no one tell Miss
Kathy I am stealing her 948 ... or her wheels and tires... Shhhhhhh)... This
car is about having fun.... Pure and simple....
I'll let you know how it goes.... but keep in mind I have a rather
interesting Drive train for it down the road.... lets see my motors have run
228mph on the salt.... in a car twice this size... Hmmm Nevermind....
lets start out with the FUN part...
Keith Turk
From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 09:10:16 -0500
Subject: engine parts
I would like to thank all who responded to my questons. I know that as
the project progresses I will be asking more ?'s
thanks .... Dennis
Bn4....45281
From MossHale at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 10:42:30 EST
Subject: Hot Wheels
I don't collect the toy cars, but I do have CORGI 3000 MKI (made in China)
RHD with hardtop. My only other which I consider the jewel of all is a pewter
1953 LHD, top down, nicely detailed 100. It came from Collectors Case, INC,
Rumford, RI
Hale BN7
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 08:47:05 -0800
Subject: BT7 with a BJ8 cam
I have a fairly stock '62 MKII tricarb, standard distributor and points
with 40 thousands over standard pistons. I put a BJ8 cam into the new
rebuilt engine and I am wondering if there are any special settings for
points, dwell, and timing. The car has standard HS4 tricarbs.
What would the dwell setting be.
Also I am using Champion RN14YC plugs. These are hotter than the 12 series
and a hotter plug seems to make a difference. Plug recommendations would be
appreciated too.
Any help from the list would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
John
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 11:50:21 EST
Subject: Gary and Roger's Book RE: hardtop numbers
Hey listers,
Gary posted a while back that his book was published before they had the
serial number info about the differences between 2 and 4 seat tops.
Well... It's right there on page 17 in a caption. It's not in the section
about the hardtops on 126.
It most likely wouldn't show up in a text seach of the document if the
cations were set separate.
So. Gary and Roger had it in there, it just didn't make it into the later
more detailed section of the text.
Rick
San Diego
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 11:53:57 EST
Subject: Re: Batteries
In a message dated 1/25/01 5:25:07 PM, MossHale@aol.com writes:
<< Is there a good reason for Positive ground? Is there a benefit to
switching
to Negative ground, other than it is a current US standard and eliminates
having to give thought to attaching a charger.
Hale
BN7 >>
If you want to get the theoreticians going, get into the question of whether
or not it makes a difference which direction the spark jumps, and which
direction is better.
For normal, pragmatic issues -- like hooking in a auxiliary power supply
(they used to call them cigarette lighters) for your cell phone or CB, or
your five channel, dual-amp stereo with in-package-shelf six disc CD changer
-- negative ground is more practical.
Cheers
Gary
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 12:20:10 EST
Subject: Re: Batteries--and a joke
In a message dated 1/26/01 11:57:35 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< If you want to get the theoreticians going, get into the question of
whether
or not it makes a difference which direction the spark jumps, and which
direction is better. >>
Something about electron flow, I believe.
Which reminds me of the story about the two atoms that walk out of the bar,
and the first atom says "Oh damn, I left an electron in the bar." The second
atom says "Are you sure?", to which the first replies "Yes
I'm positive".
Michael Oritt, BN1 (ducking)
From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 09:23:56 -0800
Subject: Heat effect on solinoid for the starter
Something that I read in the last two days mentioned that the starter
solinoid is very sensitive to heat and once heated will draw more amperage
away from the starter. The result is slow cranking when the motor is hot.
Does this make sense to anyone?
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 12:26:52 EST
Subject: Re: Gary and Roger's Book RE: hardtop numbers
In a message dated 1/26/01 8:52:34 AM, WilKo@aol.com writes:
<< So. Gary and Roger had it in there, it just didn't make it into the later
more detailed section of the text. >>
Thanks for noticing -- we wrote the captions after we wrote the text (much
after) and had no opportunity to redo the text. So we must have been alerted
to the numbers in between the two.
BTW -- We have been notified that Motorbooks is out of stock on the first
printing of the book and is now considering doing a second printing, for
which we've been asked to prepare revisions and corrections (though they've
warned us that there is a limit to what they can change, since this is only a
reprinting and not a second edition). As soon as Roger has had a chance to
review my list of revisions, we'l be sending it to the publisher and will
also make it available to anyone who wants to get it by email.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 11:52:27 -0600
Subject: RE: Heat effect on solenoid for the starter
Hi,
That doesn't sound like the way electrons behave. The winding for the
solenoid itself is a rather small affair and couldn't draw much more than
its nominal current. What is more likely is that the heat affects the
contacts and reduces the current available to the starter.
I haven't taken a Healey solenoid apart but it is possible that heat causes
a slight amount of distortion of the contact surfaces as the metal expands
in the constricting plastic of the housing and therefore changes orientation
ever so slightly.
Pure speculation,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Costanzo [mailto:costan0@attglobal.net]
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 9:24 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Heat effect on solinoid for the starter
Something that I read in the last two days mentioned that the starter
solinoid is very sensitive to heat and once heated will draw more amperage
away from the starter. The result is slow cranking when the motor is hot.
Does this make sense to anyone?
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 11:56:21 -0600
Subject: Bt7/Bn7
What is the difference between a BT7 and a BN7?
My car is supposedly a 62 Mark II tri carb but is a BN7. Is it that the BN7
is a 2 seat while the BT7 is a 4 seat?
Don
God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
difference.
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 13:35:11 -0800
Subject: Re: Bt7/Bn7
Don: You are correct ! The BN7 is a two seat and the BT7 is a 4 seater. They
only made 355 2 seat tri carb BN7s
Don Yarber wrote:
> What is the difference between a BT7 and a BN7?
>
> My car is supposedly a 62 Mark II tri carb but is a BN7. Is it that the BN7
> is a 2 seat while the BT7 is a 4 seat?
>
> Don
>
> God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
> Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
> difference.
--
Edward D. Santoro, M.S.
Monitoring Coordinator
Delaware River Basin Commission
25 State Police Drive
West Trenton, NJ
08628
Tel:609 883-9500 ext 268
Fax:609 883-9522
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 10:56:17 -0800
Subject: RE: Bt7/Bn7
Here's a good online write-up regarding the different models/series of big
Healeys.
- http://www.healey.org/model-big-overview.shtml
and specifically your model:
- http://www.healey.org/model-3000-mark2.shtml
BT7 is a 4 seat
BN7 is a 2 seat
Brad Weldon
webmaster, AHCUSA
http://healey.org/
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Don Yarber
> Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 9:56 AM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: Bt7/Bn7
>
>
>
> What is the difference between a BT7 and a BN7?
>
> My car is supposedly a 62 Mark II tri carb but is a BN7. Is it
> that the BN7
> is a 2 seat while the BT7 is a 4 seat?
>
> Don
>
> God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
> Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
> difference.
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 14:06:01 -0500
Subject: RE: Bt7/Bn7
You are correct sir... ;-) I have a BN7 Mark I.. which means I only have 2
carbs and 2 seats...
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Yarber [mailto:dyarber@dynasty.net]
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 12:56 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Bt7/Bn7
What is the difference between a BT7 and a BN7?
My car is supposedly a 62 Mark II tri carb but is a BN7. Is it that the BN7
is a 2 seat while the BT7 is a 4 seat?
Don
God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
difference.
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 14:26:38 EST
Subject: Re: Bt7/Bn7
In a message dated 1/26/01 12:57:55 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dyarber@dynasty.net writes:
> the BN7
>
LOL
You hit the nail right square on the head.
Surely you jest when you asked that question, since this is a very sought
after model.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 13:30:07 -0600
Subject: Steve Day
I am trying to get in touch with Steve Day of Wenatchee, WA. Does
anyone know if Steve has moved recently? Steve (AKA NAPAMAN) are you
still out there? Now I don't want any comments about Steve being
"Out There"!!
Thanks All.
Ward Stebner
From "Peter Conover" <pconover at mediaone.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 14:24:08 -0600
Subject: Luggage rack
I may have missed the answer a few days ago when this was discussed, but where
can one get an original style luggage rack that mounts only to the boot lid?
(Or is that a contradiction in terms?!)
I got a BJ7 "basket case" last spring that I'm working on. The lid has 4
holes, but of course, no rack. If I decide to go without the rack, how hard
is it to fill the holes?
Thanks,
Peter Conover
BJ7
Oak Park, IL
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 15:56:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Heat effect on solinoid for the starter
Sort of. All of the current for the starter motor gets to the starter from
the battery by going through the solenoid internal contacts. Anything that
increases resistance between the contacts of the solenoid will reduce the
current available to the starter. Increasing temperature in a conductor
will increase its electrical resistance. Burning, pitting, and corrosion of
the contacts will also increase resistand and reduce the available current.
I never had the problem of slow cranking until my engine was rebuilt, but
now it does crank much more slowly when the engine is hot, but only if I let
it sit for several minutes. Possibly the solenoid is heating up. I know
the starter itself isn't hot because I have checked that.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Costanzo <costan0@attglobal.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, January 26, 2001 12:56 PM
Subject: Heat effect on solinoid for the starter
>
>Something that I read in the last two days mentioned that the starter
>solinoid is very sensitive to heat and once heated will draw more amperage
>away from the starter. The result is slow cranking when the motor is hot.
>Does this make sense to anyone?
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 15:36:18 -0600
Subject: Re: BT7 with a BJ8 cam
hi john-
i also run a bj8 cam in my .30 over 2912cc engine, however, i converted a bj8
distributor to run on the mechanical tach drive. in this manner, you retain
the bj8 advance curve.
happy healeying,
jerry wall
----- Original Message -----
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@infoasis.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BT7 with a BJ8 cam
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 08:47:05 -0800
I have a fairly stock '62 MKII tricarb, standard distributor and points
with 40 thousands over standard pistons. I put a BJ8 cam into the new
rebuilt engine and I am wondering if there are any special settings for
points, dwell, and timing. The car has standard HS4 tricarbs.
What would the dwell setting be.
Also I am using Champion RN14YC plugs. These are hotter than the 12 series
and a hotter plug seems to make a difference. Plug recommendations would be
appreciated too.
Any help from the list would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
John
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 17:01:11 EST
Subject: Re: Luggage rack
Peter,
I have seen some people fill the 4 holes with a plastic or rubber plug.
Doesn't look that bad and if you ever put in a rack, you are half way there.
They should be available at most any auto parts store.
Rudy Streng in NC
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 17:51:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Luggage rack
Could also fill the holes with chrome-plated or stainless carriage bolts
with a rubber washer seal under them.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
HBJ7L/20111
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: CAWS52803@aol.com <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: pconover@mediaone.net <pconover@mediaone.net>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, January 26, 2001 5:30 PM
Subject: Re: Luggage rack
>
>Peter,
>I have seen some people fill the 4 holes with a plastic or rubber plug.
>Doesn't look that bad and if you ever put in a rack, you are half way
there.
>They should be available at most any auto parts store.
>Rudy Streng in NC
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 17:56:56 -0500
Subject: Stuff for sale
Hello Healeyphiles -
I spoke with someone on the phone today who has a BJ8 (white over silver,
black leather interior, asking $26,500); one factory hardtop and two
aftermarket hardtops to
fit a BJ8 (sorry, I didn't get a price); and a '57 BN7 that is complete but
disassembled ($4500) for sale.
I told him I would post the notice to the Healeys e-mail list. If anyone is
interested, you can see a photo of the BJ8 at http://www.autoprops.com
and you can contact the seller at ken@autoprops.com
The cars and hardtops are in East Rutherford, NJ.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
From Silas Elash <selash at homeworld.Eng.Sun.COM>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 15:29:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Luggage rack
I own a BJ7 with the same rack/holes. It was recommended that
I reskin the trunk lid. This would be the most cost/time/quality
solution if the lid is in good shape. I am not concerned with
repaint issues since the car is to the frame now and
I have to go there anyway.
Good Luck!
Silas
----------------------------------------------------
Silas Elash
silas.elash@eng.sun.com phone: 408-774-8720
Sun Microsystems
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 15:21:28 -0800
Subject: Re: Batteries-Positive ground
Land Rover's and Big Healey's used pos.ground to minimize electrolysis
between the aluminium and steel bits....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: <njones@amadeus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 12:55 AM
Subject: Batteries-Positive ground
>
> I remember reading a while ago that in England in the 30s-60s time frame
many
> cars were positive ground
> because of the better results with salt/water corrosion on the aluminium
and
> steel structures.
>
> It was better to have a +ve anode in a salty solution as it produced less
> corrosion than with an -ve earth sytem.
>
> This is what I read...has anyone else heard of this..?
>
> BN7 still positive ground and no corrosion..
>
> Nick Jones,Munich,Germany
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 18:53:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuse question
Jim: When I retired 2 years ago I bagged most all of my tech
library, including the fuse binders so I can't look this up but------
As I recall, the Lucas fuses are rated at instantaneous melt (40)
with a sub-number for "long term" melt; whereas BUSS et al. rate at
"long term" and if you want the inst. value you have to get a set of
melt curves for the specific fuse and look it up. So a Lucas 40amp
may, for example, be comparable to a BUSS 25amp.
Ed
After writing the above I remembered having a couple Lucas 50s in the
garage so went to check 'em out. The little paper tag on the inside
reads - 25amp continuous, 50amp. So the above is basically correct.
To be more accurate I'd substitute 20 for the BUSS 25.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com <Jwhlyadv@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, January 25, 2001 10:59 PM
Subject: Re: Fuse question
>
>I once remember reading that the original Lucas fuses had a different
method
>of rating than American fuses. So a 40 amp Lucas was not directly
comparable
>to a 40 amp Buss. As I recall a 40 amp Lucas blew instantly at 40
amps load
>but only lasted a short time (seconds) at 30. Can anyone clarify
this?
>
>Me, I use 20 amp fuses in the original fuse block (and they never
blow) and
>an auxiliary Lucas four fuse unit from an MGB mounted under the dash
for all
>my radios and driving lights. Probably doesn't matter, a dead short
will blow
>a 20 amp or a 40 amp fuse but it gives me a needed false sense of
security.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim Werner
>Louisville, KY
>Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
>Visit my Bluegrass Austin Healey Club site at bluegrassclub.com
>And visit my British Sports Car Club of KY site at
britishsportscarclub.com.
From "Heard" <heard at datatrontech.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 19:18:52 -0500
Subject: Serial Numbers
Hello,
I'm not a Healey owner yet but plan to be waist deep in restoration by
summer (Oh the joy!). The dialog here is very informative and I am learning
a lot but I have a question about serial numbers. What is the real
significance of having matching serial numbers? Is it just so I know the
engine and chassis have remained together over these years or is there more
to it than that? Thanks for the help.
Heard - looking for a Healey.
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 18:13:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
Generally speaking it means that the car wasn't resurrected out of Parts....
it means that most the fastners and such would have remained with the car
and your chances of doing a Concours restoration at some point will be
easier....
The data plates are easy to replace... but most folks with Matching number
cars don't replace them.... or at least I haven't in the Past.... I would
rather look at old data plates that are factory then a New one...
Just my opinioin.... Keith
----- Original Message -----
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 6:18 PM
Subject: Serial Numbers
>
> Hello,
> I'm not a Healey owner yet but plan to be waist deep in restoration by
> summer (Oh the joy!). The dialog here is very informative and I am
learning
> a lot but I have a question about serial numbers. What is the real
> significance of having matching serial numbers? Is it just so I know the
> engine and chassis have remained together over these years or is there
more
> to it than that? Thanks for the help.
>
> Heard - looking for a Healey.
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 19:26:44 EST
Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
the seerial numbers can tell you about what you have and when it was made.
For instance, If you have a BN4 with a BJ8 engine (with, oh, say HD6 carbs)
and you call Moss and ask for pistons, you'll get the wrong pistons.
the serial numbers can tell you a lot.
In a message dated 1/26/01 15:55:07, heard@datatrontech.net writes:
<< Hello,
I'm not a Healey owner yet but plan to be waist deep in restoration by
summer (Oh the joy!). The dialog here is very informative and I am learning
a lot but I have a question about serial numbers. What is the real
significance of having matching serial numbers? Is it just so I know the
engine and chassis have remained together over these years or is there more
to it than that? Thanks for the help.
Heard - looking for a Healey. >>
From Reid Trummel <ahcusa at excite.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 17:16:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
On Fri, 26 Jan 2001 19:18:52 -0500, Heard wrote:
> Hello,
> I'm not a Healey owner yet but plan to be waist deep in restoration by
> summer (Oh the joy!). The dialog here is very informative and I am
learning
> a lot but I have a question about serial numbers. What is the real
> significance of having matching serial numbers? Is it just so I know the
> engine and chassis have remained together over these years or is there
more
> to it than that? Thanks for the help.
>
> Heard - looking for a Healey.
Hi Heard,
Good luck in your search. May I invite your attention to the description of
the various models of Healeys on our club's website:
http://www.healey.org/model-big-overview.shtml
This may be useful as you decide on which model you prefer.
To answer your question, the basic idea behind a "matching numbers" car is
that the car in question has not been pieced together from components from
several cars, and/or its originality has been respected by keeping the
original components together. Admittedly it's a notional value, but it
seems to be one that it widely accepted and respected in the collector car
community.
Even if this does not mean too much to you personally (and after all, what
REAL difference does it make if a given car has the engine with which it
left the factory, or another identical engine transplanted at a later
date?), I think you will find that it can make a difference when it comes
time to sell. It's all well and good to say that you are buying a car for
yourself with no intention of ever selling, but occasionally "life"
intervenes and people find themselves needing to sell cars in which they had
planned to be buried. As I say, it's a notional value to be sure, but it
resonates and if faced with an otherwise nearly equal choice between a
matching numbers car and a non-matching numbers car, the matching numbers
car will almost always be preferred.
Welcome to this list, and good luck in your search. I hope that membership
in the Austin-Healey Club USA will be part of your Healey experience.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
President, Austin-Healey Club USA
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2
2 x AN5 Just bought another 12/27/00 - Yeah, baby!
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 18:33:21 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Send us your Healey photo!
Hi Team,
Lately we've been making some important improvements and additions to the
Austin-Healey Club USA website (http://www.healey.org), and one of those
additions has been to add a new "Album" section. This section already
includes scans of the photos from a couple of our calendars, as well as from
the recent photo contest. More is planned for your viewing pleasure.
Now we're ready to add a photo of YOUR Healey. Within the Album section
there is a page titled "Members' Cars," and we'd be pleased to post a photo
of your Healey (maybe even with you in it!) on that page. All you need do
is send us a photo with a little caption info and we'll take it from there.
You can send the photo via email or snail mail.
If you email it, please make sure that it's in .tiff or .jpg format and send
it to:
webmaster@healey.org
If you snail mail it, the address is:
Brad Weldon
2335 Perkins Street NE
Salem OR 97303
And make sure to enclose a SASE if you want it back.
For caption info please tell us your name, the names of anyone else in the
photo, the year and model/series of your Healey(s), and your city and
state/province/country.
Not only will it be fun to see your car on the web, but it can also make a
convenient way to show your car to family and friends. Just direct them to
the webpage and there it will be!
Looking forward to seeing your Healey online!
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2
2 x AN5 Just bought another 12/27/00 - Yeah, baby!
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 14:14:24 +1000
Subject: Re: Australia Day
There are a few of us.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
> Yeah boys .. have a few for me too .. I will be holding up the Aussie
> flag here in Los Altos (Silicon Valley, CA) .. don't think there are
> too many other Aussies over here and on the list?
>
> Onya fellas
> Rohan.
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 23:46:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuse question
Dan et al,
Based upon recommendations from the list some time ago I did just as John
describes for the parking lights, tail lights, and license plate light.
I did not however fuse any of the rest of the lights as I deemed it a bit of
an overkill.
Keith Pennell
> Dan--you can't fuse the entire lighting circuit--the parking lamps and the
head
> lamsp are on different circuits. If you do nothing else, fuse the parking
> lamps. Pull the red wire attached to terminal S1 in back of the lighting
switch
> and insert a 15-amp in-line fuse. This will cure one of the more
egregious
> electrical failings of the entire Healey line--no protection from a short
in the
> trunk or the chassis harness> GNpaper@aol.com wrote:
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 23:49:43 -0500
Subject: 576 cover needed
Hello Listers!
I am in need of 1 sky blue 576 driving light cover with Lucas logo. I got one
with one of my lights but not with the other. Must be in very good or better
condition.
If anyone can help me out here contact me off list please.
Keith Pennell
From Steve Dupus <stevsgarage at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 21:36:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Healey Hot wheel update
MOWOGMAN@aol.com wrote:
after searching and searching at every store I go to, I finally found a
Healey Hot Wheel here in Sheboygan, WI. I also found the Mini Cooper (which
had been alluding me as well). I have enjoyed picking up some of the Isetta
ones also, now if they'd only get the other cars I have, that'd be cool!
Be patient, they'll show up. I was about ready to think about getting one
off of E bay.
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!)
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.
You might also be interested in the ho wheels V8 angla, and the jag D type.
Steve,
60Sprite, 67 Morris Truck, 71 Midget
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 00:12:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
Boy thats amazing. Do you mean to tell me and other listers that the
fastners on each car were numbered and were specific to each car?. What a
nightmare for concours restorers. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
To: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 5:13 PM
Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
>
> Generally speaking it means that the car wasn't resurrected out of
Parts....
> it means that most the fastners and such would have remained with the car
> and your chances of doing a Concours restoration at some point will be
> easier....
>
> The data plates are easy to replace... but most folks with Matching number
> cars don't replace them.... or at least I haven't in the Past.... I would
> rather look at old data plates that are factory then a New one...
>
> Just my opinioin.... Keith
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 6:18 PM
> Subject: Serial Numbers
>
>
> >
> > Hello,
> > I'm not a Healey owner yet but plan to be waist deep in restoration by
> > summer (Oh the joy!). The dialog here is very informative and I am
> learning
> > a lot but I have a question about serial numbers. What is the real
> > significance of having matching serial numbers? Is it just so I know
the
> > engine and chassis have remained together over these years or is there
> more
> > to it than that? Thanks for the help.
> >
> > Heard - looking for a Healey.
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 00:25:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
I beg to differ. I believe the " matching numbers" owners are in the
minority and the issue of resale value always seems to be included in any
reply to the digest. I agree that circumstances might arise to force the
sale of your Healey, but the purchase should always be decided by how much
you like the particular car you look at. Buy it, drive it, enjoy it and if
circumstances force you to sell it you'll never get less than what you paid
for it, unless you're totally lame and buy a lemon. But with the expertise
available from the digest that shouldn't happen. As most people will charge
more for a numbers matching car the difference in the selling price would be
the same. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <ahcusa@excite.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 6:16 PM
Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
>
> On Fri, 26 Jan 2001 19:18:52 -0500, Heard wrote:
>
> > Hello,
> > I'm not a Healey owner yet but plan to be waist deep in restoration by
> > summer (Oh the joy!). The dialog here is very informative and I am
> learning
> > a lot but I have a question about serial numbers. What is the real
> > significance of having matching serial numbers? Is it just so I know
the
> > engine and chassis have remained together over these years or is there
> more
> > to it than that? Thanks for the help.
> >
> > Heard - looking for a Healey.
>
> Hi Heard,
>
> Good luck in your search. May I invite your attention to the description
of
> the various models of Healeys on our club's website:
> http://www.healey.org/model-big-overview.shtml
> This may be useful as you decide on which model you prefer.
>
> To answer your question, the basic idea behind a "matching numbers" car is
> that the car in question has not been pieced together from components from
> several cars, and/or its originality has been respected by keeping the
> original components together. Admittedly it's a notional value, but it
> seems to be one that it widely accepted and respected in the collector car
> community.
>
> Even if this does not mean too much to you personally (and after all, what
> REAL difference does it make if a given car has the engine with which it
> left the factory, or another identical engine transplanted at a later
> date?), I think you will find that it can make a difference when it comes
> time to sell. It's all well and good to say that you are buying a car for
> yourself with no intention of ever selling, but occasionally "life"
> intervenes and people find themselves needing to sell cars in which they
had
> planned to be buried. As I say, it's a notional value to be sure, but it
> resonates and if faced with an otherwise nearly equal choice between a
> matching numbers car and a non-matching numbers car, the matching numbers
> car will almost always be preferred.
>
> Welcome to this list, and good luck in your search. I hope that
membership
> in the Austin-Healey Club USA will be part of your Healey experience.
>
> Cheers,
> Reid Trummel
> President, Austin-Healey Club USA
> Tampa, Florida
> 2 x BN2
> 2 x AN5 Just bought another 12/27/00 - Yeah, baby!
> http://www.healey.org
> http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Send a cool gift with your E-Card
> http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 01:26:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
ahhh NO RAY.....
It only means that someone most likely hasn't cobbled the car together from
PARTS of this and Parts of that.... It means that SOME HACK hasn't Fixed it
and Drove it without reguard for quality work and originality.... It means
the original fastners associated with the car are still there....NOT
replaced with whatever works....
Keith ( I won't let you suck me into telling you how ignorant that statement
was.... you seem to enjoy anomosity.... I don't)
Keith ( who understood what he said the first time.... Try Reading it again)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>
To: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>; "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2001 1:12 AM
Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
> Boy thats amazing. Do you mean to tell me and other listers that the
> fastners on each car were numbered and were specific to each car?. What a
> nightmare for concours restorers. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
> To: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 5:13 PM
> Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
>
>
> >
> > Generally speaking it means that the car wasn't resurrected out of
> Parts....
> > it means that most the fastners and such would have remained with the
car
> > and your chances of doing a Concours restoration at some point will be
> > easier....
> >
> > The data plates are easy to replace... but most folks with Matching
number
> > cars don't replace them.... or at least I haven't in the Past.... I
would
> > rather look at old data plates that are factory then a New one...
> >
> > Just my opinioin.... Keith
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 6:18 PM
> > Subject: Serial Numbers
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Hello,
> > > I'm not a Healey owner yet but plan to be waist deep in restoration by
> > > summer (Oh the joy!). The dialog here is very informative and I am
> > learning
> > > a lot but I have a question about serial numbers. What is the real
> > > significance of having matching serial numbers? Is it just so I know
> the
> > > engine and chassis have remained together over these years or is there
> > more
> > > to it than that? Thanks for the help.
> > >
> > > Heard - looking for a Healey.
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 19:58:23 +0000
Subject: Batteries & Polarity
Gary
Joking apart Champion the Plug Makers say that it does matter. I
reproduce below a section without diagrams etc. from
CHAMPION
Automotive Technical Service Manual
Manual1
>If you want to get the theoreticians going, get into the question of whether
>or not it makes a difference which direction the spark jumps, and which
>direction is better.
************
The subject of polarity often causes confusion and deserves a more
detailed discussion. Over the years car manufacturers have connected
either the positive or negative terminal of the battery to the chassis
but in recent years have adopted a negative earth as standard.
Most electrical components in the car have one of their leads connected
to the chassis, which acts as a common return path to the battery and
completes the electrical circuit of which the component is a part.
The ignition coil however is connected to the chassis only through the
closed contact breaker.
If the leads to SW and CB (or to terminals marked respective '+" and
"-") are reversed, the current flow through the coil primary is reversed
and this in turn reverses the polarity of the coil secondary voltage.
Coils are wound so that the output to the rotor arm is negative with
respect to the chassis but this depends on the correct primary
connections being made.
Spark plugs are sensitive to polarity and they will not function as
efficiently it the secondary coil voltage is of the wrong polarity.
The reason for this sensitivity is as follows. The centre electrode has
a higher temperature, normally, than the ground electrode so that more
electrons will be released from the hotter metal surface of the centre
electrode than from the ground electrode.
If the centre electrode polarity is more negative than the ground
electrode (which is connected to chassis) then the earth electrode will
attract electrons from the centre electrode; but if the coil secondary
voltage polarity is reversed, the voltage needed to cause electrons to
pass from the earth to the centre electrode (i.e. to make the gap
conductive) is increased.
Reversed coil polarity can be shown on an oscilloscope but a less
sophisticated test is to disconnect a plug lead with the engine running
and form an arc between the plug terminal and the end of the cable.
If the point of a soft lead pencil is placed in the path of the arc then
a shower at sparks will be created, either on the plug side (if polarity
is correct) or on the cable side (if the polarity is incorrect). The
condition of the plug will also indicate reversed coil polarity if this
situation has prevailed for some time. The use of the oscilloscope is a
more sophisticated means of determining the states of the engine,
ignition and fuel systems than the condition of the spark plug.
*****************
All the best
--
John Harper
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 01:57:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
Keith, I think you better increase the medication dosage. Non matching
numbers could happen for a lot of reasons. Some engines and transmissons
just can't be re-used. That doesn't mean that the car was cobbled together
and shouldn't dissuade anyone from buying one in that condition. Get real.
How many number matching Healeys do you think still exist and will be put up
for sale. Tell it like it is. If it looks like a Healey and sounds like a
Healey, buy it ,drive it and enjoy it. Leave the concours restorations to
the few fanatical purists like yourself and let the rest of us just
"fixemanddriveem". I think you misspelled "animosity".
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
To: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>; "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2001 12:26 AM
Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
> ahhh NO RAY.....
>
> It only means that someone most likely hasn't cobbled the car together
from
> PARTS of this and Parts of that.... It means that SOME HACK hasn't Fixed
it
> and Drove it without reguard for quality work and originality.... It means
> the original fastners associated with the car are still there....NOT
> replaced with whatever works....
>
> Keith ( I won't let you suck me into telling you how ignorant that
statement
> was.... you seem to enjoy anomosity.... I don't)
>
>
> Keith ( who understood what he said the first time.... Try Reading it
again)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>
> To: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>; "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>;
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2001 1:12 AM
> Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
>
>
> > Boy thats amazing. Do you mean to tell me and other listers that the
> > fastners on each car were numbered and were specific to each car?. What
a
> > nightmare for concours restorers. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
> > To: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 5:13 PM
> > Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Generally speaking it means that the car wasn't resurrected out of
> > Parts....
> > > it means that most the fastners and such would have remained with the
> car
> > > and your chances of doing a Concours restoration at some point will be
> > > easier....
> > >
> > > The data plates are easy to replace... but most folks with Matching
> number
> > > cars don't replace them.... or at least I haven't in the Past.... I
> would
> > > rather look at old data plates that are factory then a New one...
> > >
> > > Just my opinioin.... Keith
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
> > > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 6:18 PM
> > > Subject: Serial Numbers
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Hello,
> > > > I'm not a Healey owner yet but plan to be waist deep in restoration
by
> > > > summer (Oh the joy!). The dialog here is very informative and I am
> > > learning
> > > > a lot but I have a question about serial numbers. What is the real
> > > > significance of having matching serial numbers? Is it just so I
know
> > the
> > > > engine and chassis have remained together over these years or is
there
> > > more
> > > > to it than that? Thanks for the help.
> > > >
> > > > Heard - looking for a Healey.
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 05:46:31 -0500
Subject: bn2
Hi all:
Does anyone know of a bn2 for sale in the mid atlantic area. Must not have
any frame damage, but in need of refurbishment or prime candidate for
restoration; driver or almost driver. TIA
lance
54 bn1
From jbpate at attglobal.net
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 07:48:10 -0500
Subject: Driving or fog lamps
I'm interested in adding fog or driving lamps to my BJ8. What exactly
are the differences in the two types of lamps?
Where is a good place to add the on/off switch?
Barry Pate 1967 BJ8
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 07:01:53 -0600
Subject: Re: Serial Num/Spelling
HEY HEY HEY... looky here Ray.... I am proud to be one of the 13 folks in
the Hot State of Alabama that can Read...AND write.... Spelling isn't part
of the equation..... Just consider me Phonetically Challanged.... Spelling
impaired... you pick...
Keith ( now where to find Medication... at this Early Hour... hmmm)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>
To: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>; "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2001 2:57 AM
Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
> Keith, I think you better increase the medication dosage. Non matching
> numbers could happen for a lot of reasons. Some engines and transmissons
> just can't be re-used. That doesn't mean that the car was cobbled together
> and shouldn't dissuade anyone from buying one in that condition. Get real.
> How many number matching Healeys do you think still exist and will be put
up
> for sale. Tell it like it is. If it looks like a Healey and sounds like a
> Healey, buy it ,drive it and enjoy it. Leave the concours restorations to
> the few fanatical purists like yourself and let the rest of us just
> "fixemanddriveem". I think you misspelled "animosity".
> RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
> To: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>; "Heard"
<heard@datatrontech.net>;
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2001 12:26 AM
> Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
>
>
> > ahhh NO RAY.....
> >
> > It only means that someone most likely hasn't cobbled the car together
> from
> > PARTS of this and Parts of that.... It means that SOME HACK hasn't Fixed
> it
> > and Drove it without reguard for quality work and originality.... It
means
> > the original fastners associated with the car are still there....NOT
> > replaced with whatever works....
> >
> > Keith ( I won't let you suck me into telling you how ignorant that
> statement
> > was.... you seem to enjoy anomosity.... I don't)
> >
> >
> > Keith ( who understood what he said the first time.... Try Reading it
> again)
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>
> > To: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>; "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>;
> > <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2001 1:12 AM
> > Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
> >
> >
> > > Boy thats amazing. Do you mean to tell me and other listers that the
> > > fastners on each car were numbered and were specific to each car?.
What
> a
> > > nightmare for concours restorers. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
> > > To: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 5:13 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Generally speaking it means that the car wasn't resurrected out of
> > > Parts....
> > > > it means that most the fastners and such would have remained with
the
> > car
> > > > and your chances of doing a Concours restoration at some point will
be
> > > > easier....
> > > >
> > > > The data plates are easy to replace... but most folks with Matching
> > number
> > > > cars don't replace them.... or at least I haven't in the Past.... I
> > would
> > > > rather look at old data plates that are factory then a New one...
> > > >
> > > > Just my opinioin.... Keith
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
> > > > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 6:18 PM
> > > > Subject: Serial Numbers
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Hello,
> > > > > I'm not a Healey owner yet but plan to be waist deep in
restoration
> by
> > > > > summer (Oh the joy!). The dialog here is very informative and I
am
> > > > learning
> > > > > a lot but I have a question about serial numbers. What is the
real
> > > > > significance of having matching serial numbers? Is it just so I
> know
> > > the
> > > > > engine and chassis have remained together over these years or is
> there
> > > > more
> > > > > to it than that? Thanks for the help.
> > > > >
> > > > > Heard - looking for a Healey.
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 10:29:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
Ray, I presume "fanatical" is to be taken as a compliment.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ray Feehan <feehanr@cadvision.com>
To: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net
Leave the concours restorations to
> the few fanatical purists like yourself and let the rest of us
just "fixemanddriveem"
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 10:41:06 -0500
Subject: Re; Stuff for sale
Steve, you said..."one factory hardtop (for BJ8 !)" in such a calm,
off hand way! I can just hear the bidding war starting.
Stephen, BJ8 (without hardtop)
From "Will Laughton" <wls at btconnect.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 15:58:21 -0000
Subject: Wasting Time & Contributions
I am mainly a voyeur of the list having been on it for about 2 years and there
is a lot of rubbish that comes over but I suppose thats what we have delete
buttons for and in amongst it there is good stuff which I save.
As far my own contributions go I normally keep them private unless there is
something particular and since the majority of listers are from the US
(probably because most cars were exported to the US) many contributions are
specific too you fellas - especially the one some time ago about excess heat
and Texas fans - thats not a thing we suffer from too much here in the UK most
of the time!
What I really want to know is why you allow such people as this Feehan
character to be on the list at all? His only contributions seem to be
unnecessary (I had better spell check that!), nasty and offensive to other
listers the latest one being to a Mr Turk. I have no idea who he is but it
would seem to me he would be better on a list where they could all get off on
being rude to one another not one that is about a lovely looking old car and
cherished marque.
Will Laughton from the UK. Owner of a re-imported and recent/ current full
nuts & bolts rebuild BJ8 phase 2 (started the engine for the 1st time last
week) by David Ward of Big Healey Restorations www.bighealey.ltd.uk . Hope you
don't mind the plug but he's made a super job and I know he's a lister so it
might keep the bill down a bit!
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 10:56:05 -0500
Subject: Re; Re: Serial Numbers
Isn't the fact that you're on this list, an indication that you are
already some kind of fanatic?
Stephen, BJ8
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 09:58:31 -0600
Subject: Re: Wasting Time & Contributions
Will.... I agree totally.... The fella asked a question about matching
numbers.... and to be honest .... I have owned 10 or more Healey's.... and
everyone of them had a Matching engine... Hmmm I know that isn't Nessesary
but it's nice...
I absolutely Love it when someone Plugs a Shop's work... at least it tells
us the man has a Satisfied customer.... Nice deal...
Keith Turk ( back to sticking the Front end back under the bugeye LSR car )
----- Original Message -----
From: "Will Laughton" <wls@btconnect.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2001 9:58 AM
Subject: Wasting Time & Contributions
>
> I am mainly a voyeur of the list having been on it for about 2 years and
there
> is a lot of rubbish that comes over but I suppose thats what we have
delete
> buttons for and in amongst it there is good stuff which I save.
>
> As far my own contributions go I normally keep them private unless there
is
> something particular and since the majority of listers are from the US
> (probably because most cars were exported to the US) many contributions
are
> specific too you fellas - especially the one some time ago about excess
heat
> and Texas fans - thats not a thing we suffer from too much here in the UK
most
> of the time!
>
> What I really want to know is why you allow such people as this Feehan
> character to be on the list at all? His only contributions seem to be
> unnecessary (I had better spell check that!), nasty and offensive to other
> listers the latest one being to a Mr Turk. I have no idea who he is but it
> would seem to me he would be better on a list where they could all get off
on
> being rude to one another not one that is about a lovely looking old car
and
> cherished marque.
>
> Will Laughton from the UK. Owner of a re-imported and recent/ current
full
> nuts & bolts rebuild BJ8 phase 2 (started the engine for the 1st time last
> week) by David Ward of Big Healey Restorations www.bighealey.ltd.uk . Hope
you
> don't mind the plug but he's made a super job and I know he's a lister so
it
> might keep the bill down a bit!
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 17:15:02 +0100
Subject: Re: Fuse question
Subject: Re: Fuse question
> I wouldn't argue with experience on size of fuses (though I do wonder
> why all cars don't just have nothing but 40 amp fuses and breakers) ,
> but I still like more than one fuse cuz I don't like driving in the
> dark;-)
> -Roland
Krazy Kiwi
> :: IMHO. A short to ground will blow a 40 amp fuse just as quickly as a 10
>amp fuse.
Might be that I dont really get it here....
Anyway, here goes.....
The Power you may draw trough a line will vary on the diameter of the lead. You
may think of it as "fluid through a pipe". Bigger pipe = more flow MAY go
through.
Now... if you want to make SURE the small "pipes" wount let too much power
through, you secure the lines with a fuse. Why do you want to secure the
lines?.. If there was a small leak of "blue smoke", you may get a overheated
wireing system, thats why.
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 11:43:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuse question
Hi Eyvind,
I think that you missed the point that I was trying to make, probably because I
did not make myself clear.
You are correct that small wires (pipes) will not carry high currents (flows)
without overheating (leaking blue smoke) and if that situation is allowed to
occur the result will be nasty damage not only to that wire but to others in
the wiring harness.
The important point that I was trying to make was that there is a fine line
between the amount of current that a wire will carry and too much for a 40 amp
fuse. In other words it is extremely unlikely (particularly in a lighting
circuit) that a short to
ground will develop which produces a current flow which is more than the wire
can safely carry but less than 40 amps, hence a burned wire on a circuit with a
40 amp fuse is very unlikely.
Exceptions are the blower and wiper motors. When these seize or get jammed they
can meet the above criteria however, of course, they are fused.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Eyvind Larssen wrote:
> Subject: Re: Fuse question
> > I wouldn't argue with experience on size of fuses (though I do wonder
> > why all cars don't just have nothing but 40 amp fuses and breakers) ,
> > but I still like more than one fuse cuz I don't like driving in the
> > dark;-)
> > -Roland
> Krazy Kiwi
> > :: IMHO. A short to ground will blow a 40 amp fuse just as quickly as a 10
>amp fuse.
>
> Might be that I dont really get it here....
> Anyway, here goes.....
> The Power you may draw trough a line will vary on the diameter of the lead.
>You may think of it as "fluid through a pipe". Bigger pipe = more flow MAY go
>through.
> Now... if you want to make SURE the small "pipes" wount let too much power
>through, you secure the lines with a fuse. Why do you want to secure the
>lines?.. If there was a small leak of "blue smoke", you may get a overheated
>wireing system, thats why.
> Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 12:04:01 -0500
Subject: Overdrive for a 60 3000
Looking for an overdrive for a 1960 3000. Needs to be complete and re
buildable. Needs to be shipped to North Carolina.
Best Regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 12:09:23 -0500
Subject: BJ8 hardtop
I asked for the price, $3,500 U.S. these are extremely hard to come by if it
is in fact a factory top. Unfortunatly I could at this point in time use
that money else where.
Carroll Phillips
From Susan and John Roper <vscjohn at huntnet.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 10:37:49 -0600
Subject: Re: Serial Num/Spelling
Next you are gonna ask us to believe that you have insurance on your car! John
Keith Turk wrote:
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 14:14:14 -0500
Subject: Heritage Upholstery & Trim
Has anyone on the list bought interior from Heritage Upholstery & Trim from
Blaine, Washington.
Also recommendations on buying complete seats built and upholstered by them?
Thanks for the advice.
Best Regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 13:24:19 -0600
Subject: Ruddspeed cast aluminum manifolds (3) for hd6's
hi guys-
in the early 60's a fellow named kenneth rudd offered healey hop-up items over
in jolly olde England. one of these items was a set of three individual finned
aluminum manifolds which allowed the addition of a third hd6. RUDD was cast
into the top of each manifold.
if anyone has or knows where to find a set of these, please contact me off the
list. i would consider a reproduction or original as long as it has the fins
and the RUDD in the casting. they have been reproduced in the usa in the past.
happy healeying,
jerry wall
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 11:30:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: New Website for British Car Fans
Hi Team,
I've just been advised of the recent launch of a website of possible
interest to British car enthusiasts. Check it out and see if it looks like
something you're interested in:
http://www.britishcarforum.com
Cheers!
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2
2 x AN5 Just bought another 12/27/00 - Yeah, baby!
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From Jay Quinn <jpquinn at home.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 13:39:56 -0600
Subject: Re: Ebay
I think Ebay is a very good alternative and thats my next step.
I have a crap load of parts all in very good condition, enough parts to
make 1.5 complete 62 Sprites with 1275 & 948, smooth and rib cases, side
curtains, 4.22-3.7 and 3.89 axels, etc, etc, etc.... all of the great
desirable parts and pieces and more... and I used that Jumble venue and
other Brithsh car routes a long time ago and got only a few people that
wanted all of what I had for a pocket full of loose coin. Taking total
advatntage of me is what people were willing to do to take it off my
hands so it seemed.
So then I'd tried to resort to selling it part by part and was hit with
the shipping problem mentioned earlier, a giant pain in the ass, and
people only wanted the rebuilt 1275 engine and rebuilt 1275 ribcase
tranny with the 3.7 axel plus my Moto-Lita and leaving me with a garage
full of the less desirable stuff to take space that no one is real hot
for like a perfect straight MKII body inside and out... which defeats why
I was selling it in the first place, to clear to crap out so I can park
my daily driver. So I never sold a single part, I didn't want to brak it
up and render the car undrivable for the right buyer to purchase and
reassemble, or not have the 3.7 rear axel and have to settle for a 4.22
ora 3.9, again, something less desirable for the right buyer.
So someone recently said that I should investigate the Ebay route, I
think this is a grand idea, I plan to try it out tomorrow and only sell
to someone in the Greater DFW area only, so there wouldn't be any
shipping, I'd help move the stuff from my garage to theirs and maybe even
find a truck to help pull a trailer if they didn't have one, they pay for
the trailer of course.
I'll also make the same deal offer, which is best offer for the whole
thing, and I'm not whoring myself to get rid of it either, I want whats
fair for the both of us, no rip offs and no exessive proffits, hell, for
what I'll sell it at, it's a big lose for me anyway no matter what.
I wish myself good luck once again on getting rid of all the great Sprite
goodies via Ebay that I have that someone could turn into a great sweat
62 Sprite MKII daily driver with lotsof extras they could sell on Ebay or
part by part and ship to all cornors of the planet for max profit, I
simply don't have the time.
Thanks, Jay
1962 AH Sprite MKII / HAN6L02874
mailto:jpquinn@home.com
http://members.home.net/jpquinn
Dan DiBiase wrote:
> Bill, I am on the autojumble list and get maybe 2 or 3 posts a month.
> Perhaps more people with parts out there need to get on it!
>
> =====
> Dan DiBiase
> Dayton, NJ
> '76 MGB Tourer - Brooklands Green - My Driver!
> '66 Pull-handle MGB Tourer - faded Tartan Red - My Project!
> NAMGBR #5-2328
> Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 16:19:38 -0500
Subject: Fwd: Re: Overdrive for a 60 3000
>Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 16:17:15 -0500
>To: Mogfrog1@aol.com
>From: Joseph Smathers <healey27@mindspring.com>
>Subject: Re: Overdrive for a 60 3000
>
>John,
>
>Would like a 100 6 od as it has a 28% reduction rather than 22%.
> The prefix in the laycock serial number starts with a 28 rather than
> 22. Will purchase a
>complete unit ( side shift ) if in good shape.
>
>Thanks, Joe
>
>
>
>At 03:48 PM 01/27/2001 , you wrote:
>>Hi Joe. Do you know what model O/D you are looking for? Is it only the O/D
>>unit that hangs off the rear of the gearbox you are looking for or a
>>complete
>>gearbox. I have one O/D unit, one complete center change gear box with O/D
>>and a complete BJ8 engine and gearbox with O/D. All for sale.
>>Cheers,
>>John Wright
>>eastern PA
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 16:40:38 EST
Subject: Re: Driving or fog lamps
Barry,
General practice is to mount one fog and one driving light. The fog light
projects a
flattened elliptical beam that shines under the fog to improve visibility.
The driving light projects a long-range bright light that oftentimes is
highly focused and designed
to extend headlight range in clear conditions. There's nothing to say you
couldn't mount a pair of either kind if it strikes yourI fancy. If you don't
wish to drill holes in your dash or console, you can mount the switches to a
small accessory panel under the dash where your knee won't smack them on
entering or exiting.
Rick
In a message dated 1/27/01 7:51:29 AM, jbpate@attglobal.net writes:
<<I'm interested in adding fog or driving lamps to my BJ8. What exactly
are the differences in the two types of lamps?
Where is a good place to add the on/off switch?
Barry Pate 1967 BJ8
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 17:26:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Driving or fog lamps
Barry,
The two lamps are exactly the same - socket, base, shell, etc. The
difference is in the lens. The driving lights have plain lenses for
throwing the light a distance and the fog lights have fluted lenses for
spreading it out under the fog.
I decided long ago that I was only interested in having the driving lights
because how often will I be driving in the fog? Never. How often will I be
driving at night where the long range beam may be handy? Occasionally.
What should you add to your own vehicle? Your choice.
For the addition I bought a relay and the necessary 16 gauge wiring and a
push/pull light switch. The switch knob illuminates when you pull the knob
on - Cool! I like light things as you could tell if you could see my cars.
(Both have an added interior light with on/off push buttons in the door
jams. Additionally, I just yesterday finished adding a pair of extra tail
lights over the bumper bracket holes for the BN7. Looks pretty cool as
well!)
Let me know if you want more details.
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2001 7:48 AM
Subject: Driving or fog lamps
>
> I'm interested in adding fog or driving lamps to my BJ8. What exactly
> are the differences in the two types of lamps?
> Where is a good place to add the on/off switch?
> Barry Pate 1967 BJ8
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 14:25:05 -0800
Subject: Serial Numbers
After all the discussion on serial numbers, it induced me to look at my BL
Heritage Ltd. certificate to see if my numbers "matched". That leads me to
ask, "Match what"? Are the numbers supposed to match the certificate or each
other?
The numbers on my certificate match the numbers on the components but not each
other. The following numbers are shown: car/chassis no. HBJ8 L /39031, body
no. 83924, engine number 29K UH/13793 (but see below), gearbox no. 391.
Where's the "match"?
To confuse matters further, "...the car was originally fitted with engine no.
29K RU H /13594 with overdrive gearbox but this was changed before dispatch
from the factory...". (The original owner did not want the OD). I have since
added an overdrive that, based upon its serial number, came from an earlier
model Healey.
If a purchaser is not aware of BLH Ltd, and/or the owner doesn't have a
certificate, how does he determine if numbers "match" and what that means?
Uninformed and confused Healey owner.
Len.
From "Harrison, Ian" <Ian.Harrison at li.csiro.au>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 09:59:56 +1100
Subject: RE: Australia Day
Ummm, "there are a few of us" I often wonder how many? with such a good
forum I'm surprised how few Aussies get into the fray of delivery.
Australia day!
Well there was considerable celebration down our way, despite the occasional
thunder the Bundaberg Rum festival of Sail was conducted, 400 yachts/boats
including tall ships, maxi yachts, couta boats, power boats, trailer
sailers, etc, etc, plus, fire works, open-air concert motor bike and extreme
sports demo's and, and, and, stutter, bikini clad girls, but! despite all
this, no bloody Healeys!!! I'm going back today to search for bik/Healeys.
Yep!! we had a few (beers/rums)! thanks for the down under thoughts!
Ian Harrison
Torquay
Victoria
Australia
57 BN4 (in bits)
............................................................................
.............
There are a few of us.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
> Yeah boys .. have a few for me too .. I will be holding up the Aussie
> flag here in Los Altos (Silicon Valley, CA) .. don't think there are
> too many other Aussies over here and on the list?
>
> Onya fellas
> Rohan.
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 18:19:34 EST
Subject: Re: Re: Driving or fog lamps
More on the issue of driving vs fog lamps:
The fog lamps provide a good amount of "fill" in the close and periferral
areas while the driving lamps are a long range solution. They are very narrow
beams of light. The period liturature refers to them as "pencil" thin, or
"tunnels of light"
Many folks in the period use one of each, as on my car right now. I'm using
the 700 lamps (7")
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 1/27/01 2:27:33 PM, pennell@whro.net wrote:
<<
Barry,
The two lamps are exactly the same - socket, base, shell, etc. The
difference is in the lens. The driving lights have plain lenses for
throwing the light a distance and the fog lights have fluted lenses for
spreading it out under the fog.
I decided long ago that I was only interested in having the driving lights
because how often will I be driving in the fog? Never. How often will I be
driving at night where the long range beam may be handy? Occasionally.
What should you add to your own vehicle? Your choice.
For the addition I bought a relay and the necessary 16 gauge wiring and a
push/pull light switch. The switch knob illuminates when you pull the knob
on - Cool! I like light things as you could tell if you could see my cars.
(Both have an added interior light with on/off push buttons in the door
jams. Additionally, I just yesterday finished adding a pair of extra tail
lights over the bumper bracket holes for the BN7. Looks pretty cool as
well!)
Let me know if you want more details.
Keith Pennell>>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 18:41:24 EST
Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
In a message dated 1/27/01 2:33:54 PM, thehartnetts@earthlink.net writes:
<< If a purchaser is not aware of BLH Ltd, and/or the owner doesn't have a
certificate, how does he determine if numbers "match" and what that means?
Uninformed and confused Healey owner. >>
"Matching Numbers" is a term that I've heard in the past most frequently
applied to Corvettes, so maybe they have the same number stamped into
everything that matters. My understanding is, that when it's applied to a
Healey, it means that the engine, chassis/car number, and body number match
those on the certificate as what was on the car when it was shipped from the
factory. We've also learned that 100s and early 100/6s had other parts of
the body stamped with the body number -- the cockpit surround rails, the
bonnet and boot lid -- so these should match (especially as a way of
validating a factory-modified 100M. On the later 100s and onward, there were
numbers stamped into the bonnet, boot, splash shield, and bonnet bracket that
matched one another, but didn't match the three main numbers on the car. In
order to be exactly as shipped from the factory, one would want all of those
numbers to match one another as well.
Same basic reason -- if the numbers are the same, then the components are
more likely to be the same, and the car is less likely to have been screwed
around with, giving greater assurance that replacement parts will fit, and
that body panels will fit together better.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 18:48:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
Hi, Len -
"Matching numbers" means the car has the still has the serialized components
that it left the factory with, i.e., they "match" in production records with
the VIN and body numbers. They don't necessarily "match" with each other's
numerical digits, except that some BN1s and BN2s had a unified
chassis/engine numbering system in which the engine numbers were the same
digits as the chassis numbers.
>If a purchaser is not aware of BLH Ltd, and/or the owner doesn't have a
>certificate, how does he determine if numbers "match" and what that means?
If you want to know positively whether the components in the car are the
originals, the only sure way is to get the BMIHT certificate (and even then,
some certificates have mistakes on them). However, if the car is a BJ8 and
someone wants to know if the components are LIKELY to be the originals, they
can contact me (BJ8 Registry). One of the benefits of having the details of
many cars collected in one place is that they can be compared. I am trying
to document such details as VIN/chassis number, body number, engine number,
BMIHT data, etc. on as many BJ8s as possible. The more the registry can
collect, the more accurately it can judge whether an engine/gearbox is
likely to be original to the car, or even whether the VIN and body numbers
are likely to be the originals. For example, if the engine number of a car
is significantly out of sync with those of the cars near it in VIN, then it
is probably not original to the car. Again, that is just a guide and only
the BMIHT can tell for sure.
Someone just asked how many cars still have "matching numbers". Well,
judging from the data available on BJ8s, quite a few of the ones I have
information on do have.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Marge and/or Len Hartnett <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: Healeys Mailing List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, January 27, 2001 5:51 PM
Subject: Serial Numbers
>
>After all the discussion on serial numbers, it induced me to look at my BL
>Heritage Ltd. certificate to see if my numbers "matched". That leads me to
>ask, "Match what"? Are the numbers supposed to match the certificate or
each
>other?
>
>The numbers on my certificate match the numbers on the components but not
each
>other. The following numbers are shown: car/chassis no. HBJ8 L /39031,
body
>no. 83924, engine number 29K UH/13793 (but see below), gearbox no. 391.
>Where's the "match"?
>
>To confuse matters further, "...the car was originally fitted with engine
no.
>29K RU H /13594 with overdrive gearbox but this was changed before dispatch
>from the factory...". (The original owner did not want the OD). I have
since
>added an overdrive that, based upon its serial number, came from an earlier
>model Healey.
>
>If a purchaser is not aware of BLH Ltd, and/or the owner doesn't have a
>certificate, how does he determine if numbers "match" and what that means?
>
>Uninformed and confused Healey owner.
>
>Len.
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 07:51:11 +0800
Subject: Re: Australia Day
Hi Ian
Hmm, another Aussie lurker on the list.
Big celebrations here in Perth but I missed most of them as I was too busy
keeping to my rebuilding programme and nary a drop passed my lips until the
sun was about to set.
Trying, no definitely going the the National Rally in Adelaide at Easter via
the Great Ocean Road.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in restoration painted last week just waiting so I can cut & polish.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harrison, Ian" <Ian.Harrison@li.csiro.au>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: "'Greg Bankin'" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; "Rohan Marr"
<rohan@marketocracy.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2001 6:59 AM
Subject: RE: Australia Day
>
> Ummm, "there are a few of us" I often wonder how many? with such a good
> forum I'm surprised how few Aussies get into the fray of delivery.
>
> Australia day!
>
> Well there was considerable celebration down our way, despite the
occasional
> thunder the Bundaberg Rum festival of Sail was conducted, 400 yachts/boats
> including tall ships, maxi yachts, couta boats, power boats, trailer
> sailers, etc, etc, plus, fire works, open-air concert motor bike and
extreme
> sports demo's and, and, and, stutter, bikini clad girls, but! despite all
> this, no bloody Healeys!!! I'm going back today to search for bik/Healeys.
>
> Yep!! we had a few (beers/rums)! thanks for the down under thoughts!
>
>
> Ian Harrison
> Torquay
> Victoria
> Australia
>
> 57 BN4 (in bits)
>
............................................................................
> .............
>
> There are a few of us.
>
> Greg Bankin
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
> Sunshine Coast
> Queensland
> Australia
>
> '58 BN4
>
> > Yeah boys .. have a few for me too .. I will be holding up the Aussie
> > flag here in Los Altos (Silicon Valley, CA) .. don't think there are
> > too many other Aussies over here and on the list?
> >
> > Onya fellas
> > Rohan.
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 19:54:24 -0500
Subject: Home Chrome plating system
Hi all!
I am on another list devoted to an older motorcycle that I own. There's a
thread starting on that list refering to a home-chrome-plating kit. A quick
look at the site makes it seem for real. I didn't know this kind of plating
could be done at home. It's not cheap....a basic kit costs $455.
I was wondering...does anyone on this list have any knowledge or experience
with this product?
Thanks,
Dave
BJ8
TR4A
Harley Rapido
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 19:56:29 -0500
Subject: Home Chrome plating kit
Oops...here's the address:
http://www.caswellplating.com/nsindex.htm
Dave
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 18:29:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Serial Num/Spelling
You mis-spelled challenged. RaysayitandspellitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
To: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>; "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2001 6:01 AM
Subject: Re: Serial Num/Spelling
> HEY HEY HEY... looky here Ray.... I am proud to be one of the 13 folks in
> the Hot State of Alabama that can Read...AND write.... Spelling isn't part
> of the equation..... Just consider me Phonetically Challanged....
Spelling
> impaired... you pick...
>
> Keith ( now where to find Medication... at this Early Hour... hmmm)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>
> To: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>; "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>;
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2001 2:57 AM
> Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
>
>
> > Keith, I think you better increase the medication dosage. Non matching
> > numbers could happen for a lot of reasons. Some engines and transmissons
> > just can't be re-used. That doesn't mean that the car was cobbled
together
> > and shouldn't dissuade anyone from buying one in that condition. Get
real.
> > How many number matching Healeys do you think still exist and will be
put
> up
> > for sale. Tell it like it is. If it looks like a Healey and sounds like
a
> > Healey, buy it ,drive it and enjoy it. Leave the concours restorations
to
> > the few fanatical purists like yourself and let the rest of us just
> > "fixemanddriveem". I think you misspelled "animosity".
> > RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
> > To: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>; "Heard"
> <heard@datatrontech.net>;
> > <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2001 12:26 AM
> > Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
> >
> >
> > > ahhh NO RAY.....
> > >
> > > It only means that someone most likely hasn't cobbled the car together
> > from
> > > PARTS of this and Parts of that.... It means that SOME HACK hasn't
Fixed
> > it
> > > and Drove it without reguard for quality work and originality.... It
> means
> > > the original fastners associated with the car are still there....NOT
> > > replaced with whatever works....
> > >
> > > Keith ( I won't let you suck me into telling you how ignorant that
> > statement
> > > was.... you seem to enjoy anomosity.... I don't)
> > >
> > >
> > > Keith ( who understood what he said the first time.... Try Reading it
> > again)
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>
> > > To: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>; "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>;
> > > <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2001 1:12 AM
> > > Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
> > >
> > >
> > > > Boy thats amazing. Do you mean to tell me and other listers that the
> > > > fastners on each car were numbered and were specific to each car?.
> What
> > a
> > > > nightmare for concours restorers. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
> > > > To: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 5:13 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Generally speaking it means that the car wasn't resurrected out of
> > > > Parts....
> > > > > it means that most the fastners and such would have remained with
> the
> > > car
> > > > > and your chances of doing a Concours restoration at some point
will
> be
> > > > > easier....
> > > > >
> > > > > The data plates are easy to replace... but most folks with
Matching
> > > number
> > > > > cars don't replace them.... or at least I haven't in the Past....
I
> > > would
> > > > > rather look at old data plates that are factory then a New one...
> > > > >
> > > > > Just my opinioin.... Keith
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
> > > > > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > > Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 6:18 PM
> > > > > Subject: Serial Numbers
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hello,
> > > > > > I'm not a Healey owner yet but plan to be waist deep in
> restoration
> > by
> > > > > > summer (Oh the joy!). The dialog here is very informative and I
> am
> > > > > learning
> > > > > > a lot but I have a question about serial numbers. What is the
> real
> > > > > > significance of having matching serial numbers? Is it just so I
> > know
> > > > the
> > > > > > engine and chassis have remained together over these years or is
> > there
> > > > > more
> > > > > > to it than that? Thanks for the help.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Heard - looking for a Healey.
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 18:33:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
It is. Rayfixitanddriveit(someday)Feehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec@globalserve.net>
To: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>; "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>;
"Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2001 8:29 AM
Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
> Ray, I presume "fanatical" is to be taken as a compliment.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ray Feehan <feehanr@cadvision.com>
> To: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net
>
> Leave the concours restorations to
> > the few fanatical purists like yourself and let the rest of us
> just "fixemanddriveem"
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 18:37:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Wasting Time & Contributions
You must be extremely proud to be the owner of a "nuts and bolts restored
car" knowing you had nothing to do with the work involved but will take all
the credit when you enter it into shows. I can just see the glow of pride.
The reason for your lack of contributions is you have none to make.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Will Laughton" <wls@btconnect.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2001 8:58 AM
Subject: Wasting Time & Contributions
>
> I am mainly a voyeur of the list having been on it for about 2 years and
there
> is a lot of rubbish that comes over but I suppose thats what we have
delete
> buttons for and in amongst it there is good stuff which I save.
>
> As far my own contributions go I normally keep them private unless there
is
> something particular and since the majority of listers are from the US
> (probably because most cars were exported to the US) many contributions
are
> specific too you fellas - especially the one some time ago about excess
heat
> and Texas fans - thats not a thing we suffer from too much here in the UK
most
> of the time!
>
> What I really want to know is why you allow such people as this Feehan
> character to be on the list at all? His only contributions seem to be
> unnecessary (I had better spell check that!), nasty and offensive to other
> listers the latest one being to a Mr Turk. I have no idea who he is but it
> would seem to me he would be better on a list where they could all get off
on
> being rude to one another not one that is about a lovely looking old car
and
> cherished marque.
>
> Will Laughton from the UK. Owner of a re-imported and recent/ current
full
> nuts & bolts rebuild BJ8 phase 2 (started the engine for the 1st time last
> week) by David Ward of Big Healey Restorations www.bighealey.ltd.uk . Hope
you
> don't mind the plug but he's made a super job and I know he's a lister so
it
> might keep the bill down a bit!
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 19:47:28 -0600
Subject: Re: Re: Driving or fog lamps
different strokes for different folks !! i chose dual fog lights since most
folks have dual driving lights or one of each. when you do have occasion to
use them on a british day the yellow lights are kool. i also chose them for
the appearance contrast with the ivory paint. when i was looking for yellow
lenses in 92-93 they were not that easy to find. i lucked into a set on a
healey road trip from mike gendreau in orlando, fl. by the way, i chose the
wiper motor bracket as the home for the toggle switch. very,very unobtrusive.
happy healeying,
jerry wall
----- Original Message -----
From: WilKo@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Driving or fog lamps
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 18:19:34 EST
More on the issue of driving vs fog lamps:
The fog lamps provide a good amount of "fill" in the close and periferral
areas while the driving lamps are a long range solution. They are very narrow
beams of light. The period liturature refers to them as "pencil" thin, or
"tunnels of light"
Many folks in the period use one of each, as on my car right now. I'm using
the 700 lamps (7")
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 1/27/01 2:27:33 PM, pennell@whro.net wrote:
<<
Barry,
The two lamps are exactly the same - socket, base, shell, etc. The
difference is in the lens. The driving lights have plain lenses for
throwing the light a distance and the fog lights have fluted lenses for
spreading it out under the fog.
I decided long ago that I was only interested in having the driving lights
because how often will I be driving in the fog? Never. How often will I be
driving at night where the long range beam may be handy? Occasionally.
What should you add to your own vehicle? Your choice.
For the addition I bought a relay and the necessary 16 gauge wiring and a
push/pull light switch. The switch knob illuminates when you pull the knob
on - Cool! I like light things as you could tell if you could see my cars.
(Both have an added interior light with on/off push buttons in the door
jams. Additionally, I just yesterday finished adding a pair of extra tail
lights over the bumper bracket holes for the BN7. Looks pretty cool as
well!)
Let me know if you want more details.
Keith Pennell>>
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 18:48:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Re; Re: Serial Numbers
I guess my dander gets up when I read e-mails to prospective buyers that
they should buy a numbers matching car because it will be worth more when
they resell it. They're not being told that a non numbers matching car will
probably be less expensive to buy and the eventual selling price will have
the same differential as a numbers matching car. And they're both equally
fun to drive ezcept the non numbers matching cars are probably driven more.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2001 8:56 AM
Subject: Re; Re: Serial Numbers
>
> Isn't the fact that you're on this list, an indication that you are
> already some kind of fanatic?
> Stephen, BJ8
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 18:57:11 -0700
Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
It just demonstrates how irrevelant numbers matching is. It's ivariably
linked to resale value by people who buy the cars as an investment rather
than an enjoyment. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2001 3:25 PM
Subject: Serial Numbers
>
> After all the discussion on serial numbers, it induced me to look at my BL
> Heritage Ltd. certificate to see if my numbers "matched". That leads me
to
> ask, "Match what"? Are the numbers supposed to match the certificate or
each
> other?
>
> The numbers on my certificate match the numbers on the components but not
each
> other. The following numbers are shown: car/chassis no. HBJ8 L /39031,
body
> no. 83924, engine number 29K UH/13793 (but see below), gearbox no. 391.
> Where's the "match"?
>
> To confuse matters further, "...the car was originally fitted with engine
no.
> 29K RU H /13594 with overdrive gearbox but this was changed before
dispatch
> from the factory...". (The original owner did not want the OD). I have
since
> added an overdrive that, based upon its serial number, came from an
earlier
> model Healey.
>
> If a purchaser is not aware of BLH Ltd, and/or the owner doesn't have a
> certificate, how does he determine if numbers "match" and what that means?
>
> Uninformed and confused Healey owner.
>
> Len.
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 21:32:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Re; Re: Serial Numbers
Some are buyers and some are sellers and some are in it for the money. I
bought my first Healey 30 years ago and will never sell it. I bought a 55
100 a few years ago and feel the same way. Some will buy and sell and some
will leave the buying and selling to the children. I will leave it to the
children as the only way my cars will be sold will be after I am
gone. Matching Numbers: who knows. The cars are so much fun to drive
that I don't care if the numbers are in the same range or all are
mismatched. The cars, the driving. the true Healey people make it all
worthwhile; and a hell of a lot of fun.
Best Regards, Joe
At 08:48 PM 01/27/2001 , you wrote:
>I guess my dander gets up when I read e-mails to prospective buyers that
>they should buy a numbers matching car because it will be worth more when
>they resell it. They're not being told that a non numbers matching car will
>probably be less expensive to buy and the eventual selling price will have
>the same differential as a numbers matching car. And they're both equally
>fun to drive ezcept the non numbers matching cars are probably driven more.
>RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2001 8:56 AM
>Subject: Re; Re: Serial Numbers
>
>
> >
> > Isn't the fact that you're on this list, an indication that you are
> > already some kind of fanatic?
> > Stephen, BJ8
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 20:39:08 -0600
Subject: Re: Home Chrome plating system
Dave:
<<I was wondering...does anyone on this list have any knowledge or
experience
with this product?>>
Although I am more than aware of this product, as near as I can tell, a
Sterile-type Operating Room is required.
Ed
From KingPinion at aol.com
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 22:16:39 EST
Subject: Re: VW Buying Healey?
I was just out on the British Car Forum site and saw a posting regarding VW
purchasing the Healey, MG & Rover marques. Has anyone heard any news
confirming or denying this? Last time I heard, I thought they were still
housed under BMW.
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 22:30:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
Gary,
Having been involved to varying degrees in the resto of 4 Healeys, I believe
this is the best reason for buying a car in which the numbers match.
Fitting body panels even from another Healey can be a real time consumer and
pain in the a**!
But matching numbers or no matching numbers, as others have pointed out
these cars are to be driven. The wind in your face, the exhaust note, the
admiring looks, the sweet feel of a properly operating engine and tranny,
the addicting smell of motor oil . . .
Funny no one has mentioned them for their art form. They have the very same
lines of the cars which I drew as a 3rd grader in Mrs. Bryant's class. You
can imagine how astounded I was when at the age of 16 or so I saw my first
Healey and exclaimed "Someone is making my car! How did they get my
drawings?"
Keith Pennell
> Same basic reason -- if the numbers are the same, then the components are
> more likely to be the same, and the car is less likely to have been
screwed
> around with, giving greater assurance that replacement parts will fit, and
> that body panels will fit together better.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 13:42:44 +1000
Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
You misspelled "invariably"
>
> It just demonstrates how irrevelant numbers matching is. It's ivariably
> linked to resale value by people who buy the cars as an investment rather
> than an enjoyment. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 22:54:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Stuff for sale
Listers,
Is there anyone up in this area who is able and willing to check this car
out for me? Do not know if it is a '57 BN6 or a ?? BN7. Here is the reply
I got from the guy . . .
The car is completely dissembled, i would say it is 95% complete sheet metal
that needs to be replaced is the the normal dog legs, lower section of front
fenders. All the dirt work has been refinished,has new brakes shocks new
leaf springs, also looks like front end has been rebuilt. What is nice about
the car is that has no jump seats in rear compartment would make a excelent
racer.The engine is in car, with 4 speedtrans with O/D. Wire wheels
I am skeptical that this is more of a project than I want (BIG TIME metal
work! among others things) but I am admittedly intrigued. Contact me off
list.
Keith Pennell
> I spoke with someone on the phone today who has a '57 BN7 that is complete
but
> disassembled ($4500) for sale.
> The cars and hardtops are in East Rutherford, NJ.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> Havelock, NC USA
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 21:59:43 -0600
Subject: Re: Re; Re: Serial Numbers
Joseph Smathers wrote:
> Some are buyers and some are sellers and some are in it for the money. I
> bought my first Healey 30 years ago and will never sell it. I bought a 55
> 100 a few years ago and feel the same way. Some will buy and sell and some
> will leave the buying and selling to the children. I will leave it to the
> children as the only way my cars will be sold will be after I am
> gone. Matching Numbers: who knows. The cars are so much fun to drive
> that I don't care if the numbers are in the same range or all are
> mismatched. The cars, the driving. the true Healey people make it all
> worthwhile; and a hell of a lot of fun.
>
> Best Regards, Joe
Well said, Joe!!
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 14:20:01 +1000
Subject: Fw: Serial Numbers
You misspelled "invariably"
.... and "irrelevant"
> It just demonstrates how irrevelant numbers matching is. It's ivariably
> linked to resale value by people who buy the cars as an investment rather
> than an enjoyment. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 09:16:58 EST
Subject: BN6, BN7 wood parts
Hi All, thanks to Don and the help from others during my last quest for the
dash top pattern for my BN6. Now I would like some help finding patterns for
the wood pieces in a BN6 or BN7. These have to do with the rear upholstery
attachment around the wheel wells and the surface where the top bows plug
into. Anyone ever scan these or does anyone have these pieces in good enough
shape for a pattern they would sell or loan? Any help or direction is
appreciated.
Cheers,
John Wright
BN1
BN6
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 10:04:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Wasting Time & Contributions
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 11:22:21 EST
Subject: Re: Home Chrome plating system
In a message dated 1/27/01 4:57:11 PM Pacific Standard Time,
david_m@radiantsoundworks.com writes:
<< I am on another list devoted to an older motorcycle that I own. There's a
thread starting on that list referring to a home-chrome-plating kit. A quick
look at the site makes it seem for real. I didn't know this kind of plating
could be done at home. It's not cheap....a basic kit costs $455.
I was wondering...does anyone on this list have any knowledge or experience
with this product? >>
Dave
I have used the Caswell home plating system for years and swear by them. I
use the "Copy Cad" system on those small parts that I absolutely can't afford
to loose. It is not actually cadmium (which is deadly poisonous) but a
nickel process that gives the exact same look, if done right. Additionally
the corrosion resistance is almost as good, remember that zinc plating will
need to be three times thicker than cadmium to give the same corrosion
resistance.
I have friends that have their zinc and their chrome systems (copper, nickel
and chrome-hence the term triple chrome plating) and also love them. Be
advised that there is a certain "art" involved in getting superior results
and a certain amount of practice is required, but if you are reasonably
skilled and patient the results can be as good if not better than some
professional shops.
The biggest thing to remember with chrome plating is that 90% of the results
are in the polishing of the parts before and during the process. This is
labor intensive and is why chrome plating can be so expensive. Also there is
nothing worse than taking your original parts in and carefully instructing
the plater NOT to polish out certain details only to have them ruined because
so minimum wage person on the buffing wheel doesn't know or care about those
little details. I even know some restoration shops that do their own
polishing before they send things off to the plater because they have learned
from experience that most shops can't be trusted not to over polish the parts.
Enough for now, e-mail me if you have any specific questions.
Cheers
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 08:58:18 -0800
Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Funny no one has mentioned them for their art form.
Take a look at Ian Nelson's photo contest winner in the 12/00 Austin Healey
Magazine (p. 18). Stunning.
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 10:20:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: "Healey Art" (was Re: Serial Numbers)
Keith Pennell wrote:
>> Funny no one has mentioned them (Austin-Healeys) for their art form. <<
P.M. Pollock wrote:
>> Take a look at Ian Nelson's photo contest winner in the 12/00 Austin
Healey Magazine (p. 18). Stunning. <<
Thanks for mentioning Ian's marvelous photo, winner of the 1st Annual
Austin-Healey Club USA Photo Contest. We have posted this photo online at:
http://www.healey.org/photo-contest2000.shtml
We're also investigating costs to produce a poster of this photo, and it's
looking very good. Stay tuned.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2
2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From "Will Laughton" <wls at btconnect.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 18:59:47 -0000
Subject: Mr F
I obviously caught a bit of a nerve there chaps. Many thanks for all the mail
by far the majority of which concurred with my views. I will take your advice
and screen him out if I can work out how to do it.
Apologies to the US for inferring he may be one of yours although I love both
countries. Being half Scottish means I have many relatives in every English
speaking western nation!
I'll reply to private messages privately, retreat to my cave, get back to
reading interesting Healey items and only come out again if I have something
to contribute. I will not justify Mr Fs insulting comments to me by replying
but having been a Healey owner for some 25 years now I suspect I don't need
to.
Will Laughton BJ8 from the UK
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 14:53:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Mr F
Hi Will,
Your sincerely justified shot at Mr. F may indeed have "caught a bit of a nerve"
as you say.
Fortunately I figured out how to filter all his mail some time ago and offer the
following simple solution for all users of "Netscape"
In the Menu Bar go to Edit... Message Filters.... then select for all messages
wherein the "sender" contains that which you no longer require. i.e. feehanr
Completely effective and I urge all listers to do the same.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Will Laughton wrote:
> I obviously caught a bit of a nerve there chaps. Many thanks for all the mail
> by far the majority of which concurred with my views. I will take your advice
> and screen him out if I can work out how to do it.
>
> Apologies to the US for inferring he may be one of yours although I love both
> countries. Being half Scottish means I have many relatives in every English
> speaking western nation!
>
> I'll reply to private messages privately, retreat to my cave, get back to
> reading interesting Healey items and only come out again if I have something
> to contribute. I will not justify Mr Fs insulting comments to me by replying
> but having been a Healey owner for some 25 years now I suspect I don't need
> to.
>
> Will Laughton BJ8 from the UK
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 11:48:37 -0800
Subject: Re: "Healey Art" (was Re: Serial Numbers)
A poster of that image would be stunning. Ian's photo is one of the most
beautiful automotive shots I've ever seen.
---------------
At 10:20 AM 1/28/2001, you wrote:
>Keith Pennell wrote:
> >> Funny no one has mentioned them (Austin-Healeys) for their art form. <<
>
>P.M. Pollock wrote:
> >> Take a look at Ian Nelson's photo contest winner in the 12/00 Austin
>Healey Magazine (p. 18). Stunning. <<
>
>Thanks for mentioning Ian's marvelous photo, winner of the 1st Annual
>Austin-Healey Club USA Photo Contest. We have posted this photo online at:
>
>http://www.healey.org/photo-contest2000.shtml
>
>We're also investigating costs to produce a poster of this photo, and it's
>looking very good. Stay tuned.
>
>Cheers,
>Reid Trummel
>Tampa, Florida
>2 x BN2
>2 x AN5
>http://www.healey.org
>http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________________
>Send a cool gift with your E-Card
>http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 15:34:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Mr F
Hey Will...I am another long time Healey person. I have had similar sludge
thrown at me from somebody on this list...it COULD be him. You see....I
don't know what transpired as I set my email program to automatically throw
his emails in the waste receptical....right where his kind of attitudes
belong. He's a person who finds the need to bash anyone who has an
opinion...ANY opinion. He doesn't understand that it's people's opinions
that need to be respected by any useful member of society. Some of us
realize that it's differing opinions and ideas that make things happen in
this world. Those are often the contributors to society. Some people just
seem to be offending by any opinion that turns out to be above their
understanding. Those are the rather useless members of our society who if we
were all like that, we'd still be in caves....wondering how to invent toilet
paper.
I let him get me all flustered once. It's funny actually, he's worse off
than most of his kind. He choses to fling his ignorant misguided comments on
an Internet forum. Duh...It's just email....the guy probably doesn't even
realize how easy it is to set up the computer to indentify him, and
automatically throw his minds greatest work in the waste heap. I'm sure he
has no clue just how many of us have done just that. He only gets one chance
on any new-comer to the list. He's getting a charge out of spewing
the-best-that-he-is...in the trash! Pretty sad huh?
Usually I no longer comment on anything to do with Mr. Slug...and I
apologize to the list now for my loss of restraint here. But he could use a
few more OPINIONS to choke his little mind all up in knots. Does anyone
remember an old Star Trek episode when Mr. Spock asked the computer to
calculate Pi to the millionth order or something like that? And the computer
got all confused? Similar concept!
Have a great day Will!
Dave
BJ8
TR4A
Harley Rapido
From MossHale at aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 15:36:05 EST
Subject: Serial Numbers
More on the SN query - According to the folks in England my car has the
numbers appropriate to the car as delivered, i.e. car and body numbers,
however the engine was replaced with of all things an earlier model. As to
other 'matching' numbers I was/am of the understanding it has to do with the
numbers stamped on the part in the trunk where the stay swivels (mine isn't),
the hood catch C955 and driver side hinge also C955. Kinda of sounds like old
Thompson submachine guns and their numerous parts stamped with numbers
relative to the serial number . Switch one and you no longer have an original
gun.
Comments on the numbers anyone?
Hale
BN7
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 13:49:42 -0800
Subject: Re: Heritage Upholstery & Trim
I can give Heritage a very good recommendation. I bought the interior for
my tri-carb, 2-seater restoration from them. Various friends have seen the
quality of it and were impressed. I really recommend that you send your
seats to them and have them install new foam and install the upholstery.
They did a beautiful job on mine. They also did a great job on the padded
dash top.
Heritage is a subsidiary of BAS, Ltd; a company who has been doing show
quality Jag interiors for years. Heritage uses the same quality material
and workers for the Healey interiors. The interior for my next restoration
will be from Heritage.
They are located in Vancouver, BC; but their Blaine, WA office eliminates
all the customs hassle.
John Snyder
----------
> From: Joseph Smathers <healey27@mindspring.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Heritage Upholstery & Trim
> Date: Saturday, January 27, 2001 11:14 AM
>
>
> Has anyone on the list bought interior from Heritage Upholstery & Trim
from
> Blaine, Washington.
> Also recommendations on buying complete seats built and upholstered by
them?
>
> Thanks for the advice.
>
> Best Regards, Joe
>
> 1955 100
> 1960 3000
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 16:10:43 -0600
Subject: Philip Whitton
Hi Phil
Have a problem with your e-mail address can you contact me off
the list.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 19:05:53 -0800
Subject: RE: Australia Day
Good on ya Ian,
I must say that one of the few things I brought with me to the US is
a Big bottle of Bundy Gold (that is a rather yummy Queensland rum for
the non-Aussies) and it is looking pretty sad - time for another trip
back home!
Seriously this is a great list and apart from being a huge resource
of experience it is also a great way to make friends/meet people with
a common interest - I will hopefuly be saying G'day to Greg who is
also here in Los Altos. On my last trip back to Oz I almost caught up
with Patrick in the Blue Mountains .. I hope that will happen next
time.
All the best
Rohan.
PS .. missing those bikini clad Aussie beauties too!
At 9:59 AM +1100 1/28/01, Harrison, Ian wrote:
>Ummm, "there are a few of us" I often wonder how many? with such a good
>forum I'm surprised how few Aussies get into the fray of delivery.
>
>Australia day!
>
>Well there was considerable celebration down our way, despite the occasional
>thunder the Bundaberg Rum festival of Sail was conducted, 400 yachts/boats
>including tall ships, maxi yachts, couta boats, power boats, trailer
>sailers, etc, etc, plus, fire works, open-air concert motor bike and extreme
>sports demo's and, and, and, stutter, bikini clad girls, but! despite all
>this, no bloody Healeys!!! I'm going back today to search for bik/Healeys.
>
>Yep!! we had a few (beers/rums)! thanks for the down under thoughts!
>
>
>Ian Harrison
>Torquay
>Victoria
>Australia
>
>57 BN4 (in bits)
>............................................................................
>.............
>
>There are a few of us.
>
>Greg Bankin
>gregbankin@primus.com.au
>Sunshine Coast
>Queensland
>Australia
>
>'58 BN4
>
>> Yeah boys .. have a few for me too .. I will be holding up the Aussie
>> flag here in Los Altos (Silicon Valley, CA) .. don't think there are
> > too many other Aussies over here and on the list?
> >
> > Onya fellas
> > Rohan.
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 19:56:17 -0500
Subject: bn1 water pump
Hi all:
Started the engine today after a year and 4 months. After she got up to
about 190 deg. she pucked all the coolant out of the bottom of the water
pump. She was fine when running before. My question. Is the pump
repairable and worth it? Hemphills seems to have the only repair kit,
$70.00, 120.00 for new pump. Victoria B is only offering a new pump, as
well as Moss, all appox. 120.00. I read an article in Norman Nocks Tech
Talk that said if there is any blockage in the cooling system that pressure
will build and unseat the carbon ring. I don't think that is my problem,
but will certainly check that out before I go for a new pump. Any thoughts
from the list? TIA
lance
54 bn1
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 20:37:34 -0500
Subject: Re Heritage Trim and Upholstery
Joe,
I can also recommend their kits( both Jaguar and Healey)
You will be well pleased with the quality and any questions or helpful
hints will be gladly answered.
I too would recomend sending your seats to thier shop . It is well worth the
money as the fit and finish can be difficult to achieve unless you are
experienced (familiar) with this task.
Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations Inc.
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 17:47:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Valve Adjustment
A feeler gauge is usually used when one is adjusting valves. I recently
came across a product called a Clikadjust screwdriver sold by Gunson of
the UK. A few outlets on this side of the pond are also offering it
for sale. One method of calibrating the tool requires the threads per
inch [thread pitch] of the adjusting screw. Another piece of
information needed is the size of the rocker arm adjusting lock-nut.
For example, the MGB uses a 5/16" UNC thread adjusting screw which has
a thread pitch of 18 turns per inch. The lock-nut across-flats
measurement is 1/2".
Does anyone have these measurements for the various Healey models? I
am particularly interested in the 3000 Mk I and II.
Thanks for your help.
Scott Morris, '62 BT7 tricarb , '60 BN7 project
Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 21:02:23 EST
Subject: Re: VW Buying Healey?
In a message dated 1/27/01 7:19:23 PM, KingPinion@aol.com writes:
<< I was just out on the British Car Forum site and saw a posting regarding
VW
purchasing the Healey, MG & Rover marques. Has anyone heard any news
confirming or denying this? Last time I heard, I thought they were still
housed under BMW. >>
BMW sold only the MG and Rover names to the new MG Rover Group (the group of
investors who got together to take over financial responsibility for Rover
cars and the MG marque. MG Rover Group will be racing an MG at LeMans this
year, built by Lola!
BMW definitely kept and will be using the Mini name. Though it really hasn't
been spelled out or litigated yet, BMW still apparently has possession of the
remainder of the names that were part of the British Leyland company.
However, the Healey family owns sole rights to the Healey name. There had
been discussion about paying royalties to the family to use the name for an
Austin-Healey that was bruited about at one point, but the car (and probably
the agreement) have gone by the wayside. Of course, BMW does own the Rolls
Royce name and come January 1 2003, there will be a new Rolls Royce coming
out of the new plant now being built near Goodwood.
VW owns the Bentley name and will be bringing a Bentley to Le Mans this year
as well, to re-establish the marque as a sporting car (watch for a $250-$350k
Bentley roadster going up against the new Porsche and future Astons).
And that's all the news from here.
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazin
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 20:11:01 -0600
Subject: Re: '79 Midget - Z-S carb rebuild
<<Bill,
Before you grind the sides off another wrench, Craftsman makes a thin and
long 1/2" - 9/16" open end wrench that is perfect for removing and
tightening
the intake/exhaust flange nuts. I have used this wrench for over twenty
years and it is still sold through their tool line.
Best regards,
Gary L>>
Gee, Gary, VERY Interesting to note you can reply to a "spridgets" List
post, but NOT to Don Lenchows????
er, ref, Proxy, which of course NULLIFIED any possible "vote" by Illini
Chapter, huh??
For those persons whom might be interested that you folks see I didn't send
to or cc, PLEASE forward.
I do have a new, non-up-to-date address. i.e., don't have Bev Sealand (sure
SHE wants to know) nor Edie's, nor whom ever is putting the rag called a
"stunning AHCA calendar" out.
Cheers.............
Ed
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 18:27:10 -0800
Subject: Re: bn1 water pump
My new water pump from Moss leaks. I was told it would stop leaking as it
"wears in". Now have about 60 miles on it, and it seems to be leaking
less.
----------
> From: Lance Werner <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
> To: Healey E-mail list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: bn1 water pump
> Date: Sunday, January 28, 2001 4:56 PM
>
>
> Hi all:
> Started the engine today after a year and 4 months. After she got up to
> about 190 deg. she pucked all the coolant out of the bottom of the water
> pump. She was fine when running before. My question. Is the pump
> repairable and worth it? Hemphills seems to have the only repair kit,
> $70.00, 120.00 for new pump. Victoria B is only offering a new pump, as
> well as Moss, all appox. 120.00. I read an article in Norman Nocks Tech
> Talk that said if there is any blockage in the cooling system that
pressure
> will build and unseat the carbon ring. I don't think that is my problem,
> but will certainly check that out before I go for a new pump. Any
thoughts
> from the list? TIA
> lance
> 54 bn1
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 21:02:28 -0600
Subject: Healeys in Eastern Canada
Hi Fellows
My wife and I hope to be in part of the Maritimes late this
summer or very early fall, are there any Healey owners in New
Brunswick or PEI who would be willing to provide some information
on good touring roads, lodgings, and car events. Please contact
me off the list.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 22:12:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Australia Day
What be a couta boat?
Mike l.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Harrison, Ian <Ian.Harrison@li.csiro.au>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: 'Greg Bankin' <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; Rohan Marr
<rohan@marketocracy.com>
Sent: January 27, 2001 5:59 PM
Subject: RE: Australia Day
400 yachts/boats
> including tall ships, maxi yachts, couta boats, power boats,
trailer
> sailers, etc, etc
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 22:15:25 -0500
Subject: mystery bullet connector part II
Thanks to all who responded on the mystery bullet connector. It is not a
bullet connector only resembles one.
So far no one has hit on any real possibility. Thanks for trying.
Keith Pennell
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 22:19:05 -0500
Subject: metal shrinking
Evening listers,
Anyone out there care to share their metal shrinking skills? Is there a web
site which gives some instruction? I have tried with heat based upon some
instuction from a good source but no good results.
Keith Pennell
From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 20:50:33 -0800
Subject: Heat effect on solinoid for the starter-update
Here is an update on the heat effect. I found the reference in JC Whitney,
page 179 under Solenoid Relocation Kit. Not the most reliable of references
but it does say that there is some heat effect on solenoids. Of course they
also want to sell a kit.
Any other opinions out there?
Jerry
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 21:01:04 -0800
Subject: Re: metal shrinking
I have an 84 minute video titled "Shrinking Magic" by the Tin Man,
Kent White. It is worth its weight in gold to me. It is not the
world's most professionally produced video but the content is first
class.
http://www.tinmantech.com/
is the website, with lots of other videos and tools.
I am just a customer.
-Roland
On Sun, 28 Jan 2001 22:19:05 -0500, "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
wrote:
::
:: Evening listers,
::
:: Anyone out there care to share their metal shrinking skills? Is there a web
:: site which gives some instruction? I have tried with heat based upon some
:: instuction from a good source but no good results.
::
:: Keith Pennell
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 00:09:04 EST
Subject: Re: BN6, BN7 wood parts
John we have hade all of these pieces made new and all are available. If
interesteded please give me a call at 209-948-8767
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 21:07:54 -0800
Subject: Re: Mr F
Right on Mike!
Ron
Krazy Kiwi wrote:
> Hi Will,
>
> Your sincerely justified shot at Mr. F may indeed have "caught a bit of a
>nerve"
> as you say.
>
> Fortunately I figured out how to filter all his mail some time ago and offer
>the
> following simple solution for all users of "Netscape"
>
> In the Menu Bar go to Edit... Message Filters.... then select for all messages
> wherein the "sender" contains that which you no longer require. i.e.
>feehanr
>
> Completely effective and I urge all listers to do the same.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
>
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
> Will Laughton wrote:
>
> > I obviously caught a bit of a nerve there chaps. Many thanks for all the
>mail
> > by far the majority of which concurred with my views. I will take your
>advice
> > and screen him out if I can work out how to do it.
> >
> > Apologies to the US for inferring he may be one of yours although I love
>both
> > countries. Being half Scottish means I have many relatives in every English
> > speaking western nation!
> >
> > I'll reply to private messages privately, retreat to my cave, get back to
> > reading interesting Healey items and only come out again if I have something
> > to contribute. I will not justify Mr Fs insulting comments to me by replying
> > but having been a Healey owner for some 25 years now I suspect I don't need
> > to.
> >
> > Will Laughton BJ8 from the UK
From robert hughes <dhugh at mail.tscnet.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 23:55:47 -0800
Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
True of my BJ8, but I had a 57 BN4 a while back where the last five
numbers of the VIN on the bulkhead plate matched the last 5 numbers
on the stamped plate mounted on the engine. Would have been a problem
keeping engine matched to chassis if anything went wrong in the
production process...
Robert Hughes
65 BJ8
At 02:25 PM 01/27/2001 -0800, you wrote:
>
>After all the discussion on serial numbers, it induced me to look at my BL
>Heritage Ltd. certificate to see if my numbers "matched". That leads me to
>ask, "Match what"? Are the numbers supposed to match the certificate or each
>other?
>
>The numbers on my certificate match the numbers on the components but not each
>other. The following numbers are shown: car/chassis no. HBJ8 L /39031, body
>no. 83924, engine number 29K UH/13793 (but see below), gearbox no. 391.
>Where's the "match"?
>
>To confuse matters further, "...the car was originally fitted with engine no.
>29K RU H /13594 with overdrive gearbox but this was changed before dispatch
>from the factory...". (The original owner did not want the OD). I have since
>added an overdrive that, based upon its serial number, came from an earlier
>model Healey.
>
>If a purchaser is not aware of BLH Ltd, and/or the owner doesn't have a
>certificate, how does he determine if numbers "match" and what that means?
>
>Uninformed and confused Healey owner.
>
>Len.
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 06:24:20 -0500
Subject: Bumperless
Hi all:
You guys who are going bumperless, how have you managed to deal with the
holes in the rear shroud? I was thinking some type of rubber grommet that
would fit in the hole. Any and all thoughts. TIA
lance
54 bn1
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 07:45:27 -0600
Subject: Re: Bumperless
perhaps the oblong transmission cover grommets can be adapted to work or if
worse comes to worst use duct tape.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Bumperless
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 06:24:20 -0500
Hi all:
You guys who are going bumperless, how have you managed to deal with the
holes in the rear shroud? I was thinking some type of rubber grommet that
would fit in the hole. Any and all thoughts. TIA
lance
54 bn1
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 09:18:02 -0500
Subject: RE: BN6, BN7 wood parts
Please let me know also.. I would be very interested in this... Thanks
-----Original Message-----
From: Mogfrog1@aol.com [mailto:Mogfrog1@aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2001 9:17 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BN6, BN7 wood parts
Hi All, thanks to Don and the help from others during my last quest for the
dash top pattern for my BN6. Now I would like some help finding patterns for
the wood pieces in a BN6 or BN7. These have to do with the rear upholstery
attachment around the wheel wells and the surface where the top bows plug
into. Anyone ever scan these or does anyone have these pieces in good enough
shape for a pattern they would sell or loan? Any help or direction is
appreciated.
Cheers,
John Wright
BN1
BN6
From GNpaper at aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 10:04:14 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 Fog Lamps
Hi listers,
I would like to share this weekends solution as to where to mount the toggle
switch for my new fog lamps. I simply substituted the one that controls the
panel lights with one similar to the headlight toggle. This new panel toggle
now controls the dash lights with the first click, and then with the second
click the fog lamps are lighted and the dash lights also. This makes a nice
neat installation, without affecting appearance. The cost of the new switch
$30.00 from Victoria British.
Dan Brooks
67' BJ8
From "Felts, Thomas" <Thomas.Felts at alcoa.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 10:40:28 -0500
Subject: Michelin ZX
Anyone use Michelin ZX radials on their Healey? If so, how do they look,
feel and ride?
TIA
Tom
Anyone have a link to a photo of them?
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 10:49:00 -0600
Subject: OLD BOW SENT FOR PATTERN
I sent my old top bow for my BN7 to someone on this list to make a pattern
for a new one. The condition was that when they were finished they would
send it back. Whoever has it, I would appreciate it if you would send it
back to me, as someone else needs it for a pattern.
Don
BN7
God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
difference.
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 11:57:39 EST
Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
In a message dated 1/28/01 11:57:07 PM, dhugh@mail.tscnet.com writes:
<< but I had a 57 BN4 a while back where the last five
numbers of the VIN on the bulkhead plate matched the last 5 numbers
on the stamped plate mounted on the engine. Would have been a problem
keeping engine matched to chassis if anything went wrong in the
production process... >>
Actually, it wasn't a problem for the most part, since it appears that the
engine numbers were assigned during engine production (body numbers assigned
during body production at Jensen) and when the engine met up with the body, a
chassis plate was stamped out with the chassis numbers matching that engine.
("HBN4L...engine digits") Of course, if they had problems with the engine, it
might be pulled and set aside, being replaced by another engine. Someone last
week said they had a car where the BMIHT certificate noted that the original
engine had been replaced before the car was shipped.
But in any case, first series BN4s produced at Longbridge had chassis numbers
assigned to match the number on the engine.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
chairman, Concours Registry
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 09:40:11 -0800
Subject: Re: Michelin ZX
Tom,
I have about 600 miles on a new set of Michelin XZX 165SR-15's. They look
good, reasonably priced, have the old tread pattern, and ride smooth and
quiet. I would have opted for a 175-70, but I could not find a manufacturer.
Terry Blubaugh
'60 BT7
"Felts, Thomas" wrote:
> Anyone use Michelin ZX radials on their Healey? If so, how do they look,
> feel and ride?
>
> TIA
> Tom
>
> Anyone have a link to a photo of them?
From owner-healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 09:27:32 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Re: Michelin ZX
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 13:43:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Michelin ZX
Tom,
I've had the Michelin 175R15's on my BJ8 for a couple of years. For
everyday touring they are great. I haven't had trouble with the rear
end breaking loose and they are OK in the rain. Some people don't
care for them because they are an old design, which is true. I happen
to think that they look much better on a Healey than the boxier
looking modern tires. They have a roundness about them that
compliments the lines of a Healey. They also fill out the wheel
arches better than 165/15s without looking too big.
That said, I did have two of these tires start to separate! As it
turned out, they were both from the same batch. The other two were
from different batches and showed no signs of separation. After some
investigation, I discovered that the two bad tires I purchased in
April1998 were made in March 1989! When I called the dealer, known to
many on this list, he wasn't all that surprised and had know that
there was a problem with a particular batch these Michelin tires.
While he volunteered to replace them, I wish he had informed me
beforehand.
I seriously considered buying a different brand, but no one else
makes a 175/15 and I really like the size. I stuck with the
Michelins, which I believe now come from England and not France,
where the defective ones originated.
For a look at them, go to this Coker Tire link.
http://www.coker.com/default.asp At the prompt, type in 175r15 for
the tire size, it's the only one listed. The photo shows a tire with
a white wall, but it's called a blackwall and mine have no stripe.
For those who are price concious, Coker has the best price. Allen
Hendrix, a Helaey owner in North Carolina, also carries them. Then
there is the place that sold me two six year-old defective tires.
Hope this helps.
Herman
>Anyone use Michelin ZX radials on their Healey? If so, how do they look,
>feel and ride?
>
>TIA
>Tom
>
>Anyone have a link to a photo of them?
From TC <tm-c at gmx.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 19:46:39 +0100
Subject: Workshop in NJ needed
Hi Listers,
a friend of mine is looking for a good and reliable workshop / mechanic
in the area around Somerville, New Jersey.
Any recommendations?
Thomas Cremer
674 BJ8
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 15:15:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Bumperless
Lance,
Funny you should ask this. Just last Friday I finished doing just that on
the BN7. Don't even ask how many hours it took for the mod!!!
I am one of those who during the resto made a plan to go rear bumperless.
The difference is that I wanted to be convertible - could be with or without
the bumper. As a result I had to make a bracket which would hold the
license plate and its light. Its side view is basically a Z and attaches by
the two 1/4 hex bolts at the center of the rear shroud. Remove the four
bolts attaching the bumper brackets to the frame and the bumper and brackets
slide out the holes complete.
To cover the holes I added a pair of the same tail lights for the car.
Rubber angled spacers were made to attempt to have the lights point straight
back instead of down and to the side. Can't decide if I like it, but it is
certainly different.
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: Lance Werner <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: Healey E-mail list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 6:24 AM
Subject: Bumperless
>
> Hi all:
> You guys who are going bumperless, how have you managed to deal with the
> holes in the rear shroud? I was thinking some type of rubber grommet that
> would fit in the hole. Any and all thoughts. TIA
> lance
> 54 bn1
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 17:24:07 -0500
Subject: Treadwell Carburetor Co
If you're tired of spending too much money rebuilding your SU's or for
that matter most any foreign carburetor call------------
607.829.8321, Treadwell N.Y.
I did and I'm glad.
Jim D
1960BT7
On my way to Costa Rica.
From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 17:53:08 -0500
Subject: serial numbers ?
Listers:
I am some what lost with all these numbers. I have a 1957 Bn4 serial #
and engine # are the same(45281) The part that is confusing me is ,on
the fire wall above the serial # plate is a rectangular metal plate with
two sets of four numbers each stamped in it (3960 5524) The 5524 number
matches the hood latch # and the cockpit molding #.What is the other
number (3960) ?
thanks Dennis
Bn4
From jbpate at attglobal.net
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 19:56:12 -0500
Subject: SU carb overflow
My car is now almost ready to crank after 20 years of silence. I've got
good oil pressure. The intake seems to be getting too much fuel and it
is overflowing out of the manifold tubes at each end. The fuel bowls at
the carbs are not overflowing. Do I need to readjust the floats in the
fuel bowls to shut off the pump sooner? I'm not sure exactly what is
happening inside the carbs. The shut off valves/floats in the carbs were
adjusted according to the manual. Thanks, Barry Pate 1967 BJ8
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 20:18:22 EST
Subject: Re: serial numbers ?
In a message dated 1/29/01 2:55:15 PM, brougheldp@earthlink.net writes:
<<
Listers:
I am some what lost with all these numbers. I have a 1957 Bn4 serial #
and engine # are the same(45281) The part that is confusing me is ,on
the fire wall above the serial # plate is a rectangular metal plate with
two sets of four numbers each stamped in it (3960 5524) The 5524 number
matches the hood latch # and the cockpit molding #.What is the other
number (3960) ?
thanks Dennis
Bn4 >>
The second number is called the "body number" -- the first number is
sometimes referred to as the "batch number" and sometimes referred to as the
"Jensen Invoice Number" -- A group of trimmed bodies sent from the Jensen
works to the Austin works at Longbridge together would be shipped (or at
least billed) under the same batch number. So there would have been a whole
group of cars produced about the same time as yours with the same first four
digits on the body number plate, and differing numbers in the second four
digits. As noted before here, the reason the body number was stamped on the
bonnet, bootlid, cockpit molding, and hood latch, was so that they could get
all the custom-fitted pieces back on the same car after they were finished
assembling it at Longbridge.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Chairman, AH Concours Registry
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 17:40:40 -0800
Subject: BN6 Clutch Question
Hello Listers,
Was wondering if anyone knows whether there's a way to tell, from under the
car, whether my car has the diaphragm clutch or the older conventional
coil-spring clutch. In addition would like to know--does the diaphragm
clutch pressure plate bolt right up to the flywheel from the older type?
Haven't gone under there yet and thought I'd ask first. Couldn't tell from
the manual.
TIA.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 21:38:02 EST
Subject: Re: Home Chrome plating system
In a message dated 1/28/01 10:53:41 AM Pacific Standard Time, dht@erols.com
writes:
<< Your article was very interesting ...... how do you over polish and what
happens when you do >>
Dean
This all depends on the specific part, its size, what type of metal it is
made of, etc.
Here are a few examples, Healey bumpers for one. Once straightened, a shop
can then polish out the defects with a wheel to the point that the bumper is
quite a bit thinner and weaker than when they started. Additionally the
edges can be polished thin and sharp in certain places. The correct but time
consuming process is to spend extra time with the straightening first and
then put multiple copper layers on and polish in between each layer. This
builds up the low areas and you end up polishing down the copper layers and
not the steel obviously leaving the as much of the original metal as
possible. But this will cost alot more.
The second example are small parts with either casting details in them, items
with sharp or crisp edges or original lettering etched or inscribed in. Once
again your average minimum wage polisher won't care that the inscription on
your rare original part is the only thing that that differentiates it from
that cheap M@$$ reproduction and will polish out all of the original details
and markings.
One of my favorite examples has to do with the vertical grill slats on Jaguar
XK120's and will tell me the attention to detail that was paid during the
restoration. Quickly, each of the slats has an extra raised portion, almost
like a beading on the edge that is noticeable but is also very easy to polish
out if you are not very careful. It's the first thing that I look for on a
XK120 and it gives me an idea of the attention to detail paid on the rest of
the car.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
>> nothing worse than taking your original parts in and carefully
instructing
> the plater NOT to polish out certain details only to have them ruined
because
> so minimum wage person on the buffing wheel doesn't know or care about
those
> little details. I even know some restoration shops that do their own
> polishing before they send things off to the plater because they have
learned
> from experience that most shops can't be trusted not to over polish the
parts.
>
> Enough for now, e-mail me if you have any specific questions.
>
> Cheers
>
> Curt Arndt
> Carlsbad, CA
> '55 BN1, '60 AN5
From Steve Dupus <stevsgarage at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 19:07:02 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: SU carb overflow
jbpate@attglobal.net wrote:
My car is now almost ready to crank after 20 years of silence. I've got
good oil pressure. The intake seems to be getting too much fuel and it
is overflowing out of the manifold tubes at each end. The fuel bowls at
the carbs are not overflowing. Do I need to readjust the floats in the
fuel bowls to shut off the pump sooner? I'm not sure exactly what is
happening inside the carbs. The shut off valves/floats in the carbs were
adjusted according to the manual. Thanks, Barry Pate 1967 BJ8
My first guess would be that your needle&seat is stuck open. Maybe and/or
float bowl vents plugged.Turn your ignition switch on and listen for your fuel
pump to build pressure then shut off (less than a minute) also watch the vent
tubes comming off the top of the carb bowls to be leaking fuel from the brass
tubes. Shut off the Ign. remove the thee scews holding down the top and
carefully pry loose the top, the bowl should be slightly over half fuel with
float removed and probably a layer of crude in the bottom if unattended to for
a long period of time.Clean out the bowls with clean lint free rags, then
remove the fuel lines from the lids and take them to a bench or suitable work
place. At the base of the float there is a hindge pin about 11/2" long, pull it
free to remove the float. You may have to pull it with a pair of needle nose
plyers turning ang pulling together.Inspect the float carefully exspecially if
yours is brass. Make sure it floats (this may be the problem) shake and listen
for rattles then hold it under water and check for leaks( it should float )
Next remove the needle from the seat and inspect the tip for damage ( I
recomend replacing with a gross jet style, not that exspencive and well worth
it) Spray some carb cleaner through the seat, dry, and put the needle then
float back on. You now should be able to blow through the inlet on the bowl
with the lid upright but not upside down(this closes the seat) Put the lid back
on the bowl connect the fuel lines and turn on the ignition,listen for the fuel
pump to build pressure then shut off.
Steve 60
Sprite, 67 Morris truck, 71 Midget
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 22:17:48 -0500
Subject: re bumperless
You bumperless guys might want to consider the works method of using
bugeye sprite bumperettes. Its an easy mod.and still puts some chrome at
your rear, (athstetics only I'm sure). Somebody does sell a blanking plate
and clamp kit that looks good as well ( I dont remember who)
The plate lamp can also be attached works style sideways or for U.S.
mounted to body above plate.I know you have to drill holes but whatta ya
gonna do......JB weld maybeee!
Carroll
From "CRD" <crd at iserv.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 23:17:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Michelin ZX
Tom,
Have been running 165-15 XZX on my BJ8 since 93'. I now have about 32K
miles on them and the ride has been great. The look good to me though I've
not had anyone comment on them specifically. They now run on Minilites and
the ride is even better.
Try-em, you'll like-em.
Rick
GR8BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: Felts, Thomas <Thomas.Felts@alcoa.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 10:40 AM
Subject: Michelin ZX
>
> Anyone use Michelin ZX radials on their Healey? If so, how do they look,
> feel and ride?
>
> TIA
> Tom
>
> Anyone have a link to a photo of them?
From "Alan J. Toepfer" <ajtoepfe at flash.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 22:18:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Michelin ZX
I have 175X15 ZX tires mounted on Dayton 15x5 60-spoke, sealed tubeless
chrome wire wheels, all purchased from British Wire Wheel. I have not
auto-crossed and to date have less than 1000 miles on them, but they look
great and ride great.
Al Toepfer
59 BT7L/1173
----------
>From: "Felts, Thomas" <Thomas.Felts@alcoa.com>
>To: "'healeys@autox.team.net'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Michelin ZX
>Date: Mon, Jan 29, 2001, 8:40 AM
>
>
> Anyone use Michelin ZX radials on their Healey? If so, how do they look,
> feel and ride?
>
> TIA
> Tom
>
> Anyone have a link to a photo of them?
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 20:49:15 -0500
Subject: Re: metal shrinking
I can fix anything, but I can't shrink metal. I believe it
requires a 12 year apprenticeship.
Mike L
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
To: Keith Pennell <pennell@whro.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: January 29, 2001 12:01 AM
Subject: Re: metal shrinking
>
> I have an 84 minute video titled "Shrinking Magic" by the Tin
Man,
> Kent White. It is worth its weight in gold to me. It is not
the
> world's most professionally produced video but the content is
first
> class.
>
> http://www.tinmantech.com/
>
> is the website, with lots of other videos and tools.
>
> I am just a customer.
>
> -Roland
> On Sun, 28 Jan 2001 22:19:05 -0500, "Keith Pennell"
<pennell@whro.net>
> wrote:
>
> ::
> :: Evening listers,
> ::
> :: Anyone out there care to share their metal shrinking skills?
Is there a web
> :: site which gives some instruction? I have tried with heat
based upon some
> :: instuction from a good source but no good results.
> ::
> :: Keith Pennell
From MossHale at aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 02:01:39 EST
Subject: Bumperless
Someone has a neat solution. I considered having brackets made and finding
something like the small bumpers on an old Triumph, they were akin to the
overriders. What about the license and light. Are they bolted to the body?
Some apparently are. Would be interested in what you come up with, Lance.
Hale BN7
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 00:35:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Home Chrome plating system
I'm also interested in a home plating system. Does all the old chrome have
to be removed first. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: <CNAArndt@aol.com>
To: <dht@erols.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 7:38 PM
Subject: Re: Home Chrome plating system
>
> In a message dated 1/28/01 10:53:41 AM Pacific Standard Time,
dht@erols.com
> writes:
>
> << Your article was very interesting ...... how do you over polish and
what
> happens when you do >>
>
>
> Dean
>
> This all depends on the specific part, its size, what type of metal it is
> made of, etc.
>
> Here are a few examples, Healey bumpers for one. Once straightened, a
shop
> can then polish out the defects with a wheel to the point that the bumper
is
> quite a bit thinner and weaker than when they started. Additionally the
> edges can be polished thin and sharp in certain places. The correct but
time
> consuming process is to spend extra time with the straightening first and
> then put multiple copper layers on and polish in between each layer. This
> builds up the low areas and you end up polishing down the copper layers
and
> not the steel obviously leaving the as much of the original metal as
> possible. But this will cost alot more.
>
> The second example are small parts with either casting details in them,
items
> with sharp or crisp edges or original lettering etched or inscribed in.
Once
> again your average minimum wage polisher won't care that the inscription
on
> your rare original part is the only thing that that differentiates it from
> that cheap M@$$ reproduction and will polish out all of the original
details
> and markings.
>
> One of my favorite examples has to do with the vertical grill slats on
Jaguar
> XK120's and will tell me the attention to detail that was paid during the
> restoration. Quickly, each of the slats has an extra raised portion,
almost
> like a beading on the edge that is noticeable but is also very easy to
polish
> out if you are not very careful. It's the first thing that I look for on
a
> XK120 and it gives me an idea of the attention to detail paid on the rest
of
> the car.
>
> Curt Arndt
> Carlsbad, CA
> '55 BN1, '60 AN5
>
> >> nothing worse than taking your original parts in and carefully
> instructing
> > the plater NOT to polish out certain details only to have them ruined
> because
> > so minimum wage person on the buffing wheel doesn't know or care about
> those
> > little details. I even know some restoration shops that do their own
> > polishing before they send things off to the plater because they have
> learned
> > from experience that most shops can't be trusted not to over polish the
> parts.
> >
> > Enough for now, e-mail me if you have any specific questions.
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Curt Arndt
> > Carlsbad, CA
> > '55 BN1, '60 AN5
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 03:43:26 -0500
Subject: RE: SU carb overflow
A quick way to check the float level is as follows:
- Turn on the ignition until the fuel pump stops running.
(If it keeps running, then you know that your needle valves
are not seating properly. - Replace your needle valves.)
- Turn off the ignition and remove the vacuum chamber and piston
from each carbuertor, making sure that you keep track of which
ones go with which carberator since they are a matched set.
- Pull the choke all the way on and look straight down into the main
jet. You should see that the level of the gasoline is almost up to the
level of the top of the inner, moveable part of the jet. If it is
higher
than that, especially higher than the bridge, then it is too high.
HTH.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of jbpate@attglobal.net
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 7:56 PM
To: Healey
Subject: SU carb overflow
My car is now almost ready to crank after 20 years of silence. I've got
good oil pressure. The intake seems to be getting too much fuel and it
is overflowing out of the manifold tubes at each end. The fuel bowls at
the carbs are not overflowing. Do I need to readjust the floats in the
fuel bowls to shut off the pump sooner? I'm not sure exactly what is
happening inside the carbs. The shut off valves/floats in the carbs were
adjusted according to the manual. Thanks, Barry Pate 1967 BJ8
From "Will Laughton" <wls at btconnect.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 10:23:31 -0000
Subject: Mr F & Others
Listers
I have reluctantly decided to re-emerge from my cave one last time on this
issue because an off list email to me has thrown up an interesting dilemma. I
don't want to get my knickers in a twist about this (UK expression) but he
perhaps highlights an unfortunate effect of the likes of Mr F. This guy is a
relatively new lister and new AH owner who is petrified of putting anything
out on the list for fear of being ridiculed.
In my view, if this is a commonly held conception then it does not bode well
for Healey lovers in general and the long term future for this list in
particular. Surely the list exists for those with the knowledge on all things
Healey (including commercial) to share with those of us without. To allow
certain people to intimidate and be-little others (in the name of free speech)
thus stopping the others from asking questions just in case they may be
construed as naive or that a similar question was asked 3 years ago cannot be
positive for any of us.
Sorry for being so serious but I thought it needed telling. Oh, and this
filtering process works wonderfully! Bye Bye..
Will Laughton UK
From J & L Armour <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 22:02:55 +0100
Subject: LSR Sprite
Keith, I've been following with interest your endeavours and success in
breaking 200mph and applying this experience to a very fast Sprite. Are
you aware of the following information in Geoff Healey's books?:-
* More Healeys page 159 shows a chart of drag factors for various works
Sprites (GT) eg 65 Lemans Sprite 147mph from 105 bhp
* More Healeys page 159 -160 1968 Lemans Sprite (GT) 150 mph from 110bhp
* More Healeys page 118-119 see 1969 Targa Florio Roadster.This one was
never raced by the Healey Co. but in my opinion has the lowest frontal
area and best drag coefficient of any Sprite made.
*Austin Healey page 242 The dyno chart of the 1965 Sebring 3000 showing
196bhp and I know this car has done 146mph (its mine)
* More Healeys page 58, 59, 60 A land speed record car with 950cc Sprite
engine with Shorrock super charger - 12 hours at 135 mph from 70bhp at
5400rpm.
Also 145-150mph from 98 bhp at 6500rpm
Also 50km at 145.56mph and 2000km at 138.86mph
When you look at the streamlined bodies on each of these cars (except
the LSR car) they are all built on a standard Sprite chassis.
I would love to see the 1969 Targa Florio style car with your
horsepower!! Good luck. Joe Armour
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 06:20:31 -0600
Subject: Re: Mr F & Others
Will I started a Land Speed Racing list with this same server...
Our rules are simple... we don't care how you say it or how you spell it...
it's the content of the question and the attitude of the group in general...
we try and make it so ANYONE can ask a question and Feel welcome to be
there.... kinda a Wholesome family atmosphere so to speak.... I have been
VERY successful in doing that.... We don't Allow folks to say negative
things about Other people on the List.... I will ask Mark to remove them
from the List....( yeah I know there are ways around that ) and the respect
of our peers is what we all strive for in our sport.... ( damn sure ain't no
money in it )
Generally social behavior is defined by the Group.... and we obviously don't
accept his behavior as Correct..... that is the bottom line.... Either he
Tow's the line or we all selectively Filter him.... his choice....
Keith
----- Original Message -----
From: "Will Laughton" <wls@btconnect.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 4:23 AM
Subject: Mr F & Others
>
> Listers
>
> I have reluctantly decided to re-emerge from my cave one last time on this
> issue because an off list email to me has thrown up an interesting
dilemma. I
> don't want to get my knickers in a twist about this (UK expression) but he
> perhaps highlights an unfortunate effect of the likes of Mr F. This guy is
a
> relatively new lister and new AH owner who is petrified of putting
anything
> out on the list for fear of being ridiculed.
>
> In my view, if this is a commonly held conception then it does not bode
well
> for Healey lovers in general and the long term future for this list in
> particular. Surely the list exists for those with the knowledge on all
things
> Healey (including commercial) to share with those of us without. To allow
> certain people to intimidate and be-little others (in the name of free
speech)
> thus stopping the others from asking questions just in case they may be
> construed as naive or that a similar question was asked 3 years ago cannot
be
> positive for any of us.
>
> Sorry for being so serious but I thought it needed telling. Oh, and this
> filtering process works wonderfully! Bye Bye..
>
> Will Laughton UK
From David Neale <dneale at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 05:09:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Gas Tank
What should I do to protect my BN7 empty gas tank during restoration to
avoid corrosion on the inside? Currently out of the car with rag in tank
filler pipe.
DAVID NEALE
BN7
BJ8
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 08:47:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Gas Tank
Hi David,
We just put about a litre of engine oil in the empty tank and slosh it
around. Pour off the excess before refitting the tank
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
David Neale wrote:
> What should I do to protect my BN7 empty gas tank during restoration to
> avoid corrosion on the inside? Currently out of the car with rag in tank
> filler pipe.
>
> DAVID NEALE
> BN7
> BJ8
From "Alan Schultz" <aschultz at uwsa.edu>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 08:25:50 -0600
Subject: Re: Mr F & Others
I've also set my computer to filter out the Mr. F e-mails. Works great!!
Will Laughton wrote:
> Listers
>
> I have reluctantly decided to re-emerge from my cave one last time on this
> issue because an off list email to me has thrown up an interesting dilemma. I
> don't want to get my knickers in a twist about this (UK expression) but he
> perhaps highlights an unfortunate effect of the likes of Mr F. This guy is a
> relatively new lister and new AH owner who is petrified of putting anything
> out on the list for fear of being ridiculed.
>
> In my view, if this is a commonly held conception then it does not bode well
> for Healey lovers in general and the long term future for this list in
> particular. Surely the list exists for those with the knowledge on all things
> Healey (including commercial) to share with those of us without. To allow
> certain people to intimidate and be-little others (in the name of free speech)
> thus stopping the others from asking questions just in case they may be
> construed as naive or that a similar question was asked 3 years ago cannot be
> positive for any of us.
>
> Sorry for being so serious but I thought it needed telling. Oh, and this
> filtering process works wonderfully! Bye Bye..
>
> Will Laughton UK
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
aschultz.vcf]
From jclose at sduhsd.k12.ca.us
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 10:04:53 -0800
Subject: Fwd:FW: Road Rage
This would be an effective means of hurrying some drivers along..... - JRCJr
____________________Forward Header_____________________
Subject: FW: Road Rage
Author: <rejones1@earthlink.net>
Date: 1/28/01 12:34 PM
>
>
> Got to be careful who you get on the bad side of! is this the counter
point to a woman with a gun? rej
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had
a name of road rage.jpg]
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Subject: FW: Road Rage
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 12:34:6 -0800
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 07:58:15 -0800
Subject: Dumb carb question
The question isn't dumb, I was. I had my carb's vacuum chambers/pistons off
last year when I changed my air filters and replaced some seals, and didn't
mark them as pairs. The car runs fine, but I was curious if there are any
markings to denote the matched chamber/piston sets? I've got to take them
apart again, so figured I should try to make things right if I can.
Bill Katz
Bay Area, CA
'67 BJ8
'94 325is
http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 08:37:06 -0800
Subject: Re: SU carb overflow
My suggestion would be to pull the jets and clean them. Most likely you have
a bit of varnish stuck in the needle and seat. The old gas has left lots of
this hanging around. My car sat for years and I was plagued with the
remnants of old gas. The fuel system was new and then sat with the gas in
it. I tried all kinds of gas additives and sometimes when the stuff came
loose things got worse. I installed an inline fuel filter close to the carbs
and I still had the problem. I finally changed the braded hoses and sofar so
good...Neil
Ps. I changed to grose jets and it still happened....varnish flakes are a
bugger.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: <jbpate@attglobal.net>; "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 12:43 AM
Subject: RE: SU carb overflow
>
> A quick way to check the float level is as follows:
>
> - Turn on the ignition until the fuel pump stops running.
> (If it keeps running, then you know that your needle valves
> are not seating properly. - Replace your needle valves.)
>
> - Turn off the ignition and remove the vacuum chamber and piston
> from each carbuertor, making sure that you keep track of which
> ones go with which carberator since they are a matched set.
>
> - Pull the choke all the way on and look straight down into the main
> jet. You should see that the level of the gasoline is almost up to the
> level of the top of the inner, moveable part of the jet. If it is higher
> than that, especially higher than the bridge, then it is too high.
>
> HTH.
>
> Peter Schauss
> Long Island, NY
> 1980 MGB
> 1963 BJ7
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of jbpate@attglobal.net
> Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 7:56 PM
> To: Healey
> Subject: SU carb overflow
>
>
>
> My car is now almost ready to crank after 20 years of silence. I've got
> good oil pressure. The intake seems to be getting too much fuel and it
> is overflowing out of the manifold tubes at each end. The fuel bowls at
> the carbs are not overflowing. Do I need to readjust the floats in the
> fuel bowls to shut off the pump sooner? I'm not sure exactly what is
> happening inside the carbs. The shut off valves/floats in the carbs were
> adjusted according to the manual. Thanks, Barry Pate 1967 BJ8
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 11:50:35 EST
Subject: Re: Home Chrome plating system
<< In a message dated 1/29/01 11:35:54 PM Pacific Standard Time,
feehanr@cadvision.com writes:
<< I'm also interested in a home plating system. Does all the old chrome have
to be removed first. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan. >>
Ray
Yes, Caswell has a system which will remove the old plating by reverse
electrolysis which is the most effective and efficient way. Remember this
investment will also require a buffing setup to polish the parts after
stripping.
I have to caution everyone that the investment in time and money for this
set up in time and money may not be worth it unless you have quite a lot of
small parts to do. You will not be able to do any large items like bumpers,
windscreen frames, etc. My friend who has their chrome kit has already
successfully restored four LBC's including three Healey's and has another
four cars that he is planning to do in retirement. This investment makes
sense for him with the amount of small, irreplaceable parts that he needs to
do. This may not be practical if you are doing just one vehicle.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 (I don't need the chrome kit since I found a quality, small
plater who is more meticulous than I am).
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 10:41:08 -0800
Subject: Clutch Flywheel sought
Hello Listers,
Am seeking good condition flywheel w/ring gear & diaphragm spring clutch in
Los Angeles area. Would like to hear offline from anyone who has these parts
for sale.
TIA.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 15:41:52 -0500
Subject: side curtain Qs
Listers,
Am progressing slowly toward 100% completion on the resto. Decided last
evening to try to fit the new side curtains. Did some preliminary fitting a
while back but stopped.
Out of all this I had questions which arose.
1. I find a small, maybe 3/4 inch long, basically triangular piece of Al at
the back lower corner of each frame. What is this for?
2. There is also a rubber bumper on the inside of the top forward part of the
frame. It is held in by a 1/4 long sheet metal screw with a head like the
ones attaching the Al finishers to the body. I take it that it is there to
avoid the frame slamming against the stud to which the top (hood) clamps - is
that right?
3. I have one rubber bumper for #2 above and two screws. Anyone got one of
the correct bumpers (they appear to be flat not rounded head) they are willing
to part with?
4. The front of the driver side curtain is too tight against the windshield
frame. The frame is as far upright and forward as it can go. Any suggestions
on how to adjust things to open up that space by maybe 3/16 inch?
Keith Pennell
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 17:00:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Home Chrome plating system
Chrome plate (blue) can be removed with muriatic/hydrochloric acid.
If there's nickel plate (yellow) underneath, that needs to be
activated prior to replating chromium. I seem to remember (senior
moment) doing that by reversing the current in a plain water bath.
Whatever the current direction, the object is to release hydrogen at
the nickel surface to grab the oxygen out of any oxides on the part.
Ed A
-----Original Message-----
From: Ray Feehan <feehanr@cadvision.com>
To: CNAArndt@aol.com <CNAArndt@aol.com>; dht@erols.com <dht@erols.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 2:38 AM
Subject: Re: Home Chrome plating system
>
>I'm also interested in a home plating system. Does all the old chrome
have
>to be removed first. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <CNAArndt@aol.com>
>To: <dht@erols.com>
>Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 7:38 PM
>Subject: Re: Home Chrome plating system
>
>
>>
>> In a message dated 1/28/01 10:53:41 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>dht@erols.com
>> writes:
>>
>> << Your article was very interesting ...... how do you over polish
and
>what
>> happens when you do >>
>>
>>
>> Dean
>>
>> This all depends on the specific part, its size, what type of metal
it is
>> made of, etc.
>>
>> Here are a few examples, Healey bumpers for one. Once
straightened, a
>shop
>> can then polish out the defects with a wheel to the point that the
bumper
>is
>> quite a bit thinner and weaker than when they started.
Additionally the
>> edges can be polished thin and sharp in certain places. The
correct but
>time
>> consuming process is to spend extra time with the straightening
first and
>> then put multiple copper layers on and polish in between each
layer. This
>> builds up the low areas and you end up polishing down the copper
layers
>and
>> not the steel obviously leaving the as much of the original metal
as
>> possible. But this will cost alot more.
>>
>> The second example are small parts with either casting details in
them,
>items
>> with sharp or crisp edges or original lettering etched or inscribed
in.
>Once
>> again your average minimum wage polisher won't care that the
inscription
>on
>> your rare original part is the only thing that that differentiates
it from
>> that cheap M@$$ reproduction and will polish out all of the
original
>details
>> and markings.
>>
>> One of my favorite examples has to do with the vertical grill slats
on
>Jaguar
>> XK120's and will tell me the attention to detail that was paid
during the
>> restoration. Quickly, each of the slats has an extra raised
portion,
>almost
>> like a beading on the edge that is noticeable but is also very easy
to
>polish
>> out if you are not very careful. It's the first thing that I look
for on
>a
>> XK120 and it gives me an idea of the attention to detail paid on
the rest
>of
>> the car.
>>
>> Curt Arndt
>> Carlsbad, CA
>> '55 BN1, '60 AN5
>>
>> >> nothing worse than taking your original parts in and carefully
>> instructing
>> > the plater NOT to polish out certain details only to have them
ruined
>> because
>> > so minimum wage person on the buffing wheel doesn't know or care
about
>> those
>> > little details. I even know some restoration shops that do
their own
>> > polishing before they send things off to the plater because they
have
>> learned
>> > from experience that most shops can't be trusted not to over
polish the
>> parts.
>> >
>> > Enough for now, e-mail me if you have any specific questions.
>> >
>> > Cheers
>> >
>> > Curt Arndt
>> > Carlsbad, CA
>> > '55 BN1, '60 AN5
From CIAG6 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 17:34:22 EST
Subject: Re: Home Chrome plating system
I hope everyone contemplating any type of home chrome plating system is aware
of the powerful and toxic nature of many of the chemicals you will be dealing
with. Just take a look at the EPA and OSHA regulations dealing with
commercial plating operations and you will soon realize why it is (1) an
expensive thing to have someone plate your items, and (2) why so many platers
have gone out of business. For once, the government regulations are not
overkill. There are very real environmental and health concerns related to
the plating business.
I am a retired chemical engineer and there is no way I would consider using
any home chrome plating system no matter who makes it or who endorses it.
RayG
Colorado
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 16:39:36 -0600
Subject: Looking for a friend in the U.K.
I'm trying to look up an acquaintance of ours to chat with. Peter Ellis of
Wootton, Northamptonshire. Peter, are you on this list?? If so, we'd love
to hear from you and Val. Thanks in advance for any help.
Jack and Mary Brashear
Alexander, Arkansas U.S.A.
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 15:33:21 -0800
Subject: Re: Bumperless
Lance--I got a set of Lucas reflectors about 2.5" across and screwed them in.
Got them from Brooklands in FL. Don't know if they are still in biz tho.
John Trifari 1955 BN1/1965 BJ8
Lance Werner wrote:
> Hi all:
> You guys who are going bumperless, how have you managed to deal with the
> holes in the rear shroud? I was thinking some type of rubber grommet that
> would fit in the hole. Any and all thoughts. TIA
> lance
> 54 bn1
From Steve Dupus <stevsgarage at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 16:35:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Home Chrome plating system
Not only are the chemicals dangerous and corrosive but they attract rust
CIAG6@aol.com wrote:
I hope everyone contemplating any type of home chrome plating system is aware
of the powerful and toxic nature of many of the chemicals you will be dealing
with. Just take a look at the EPA and OSHA regulations dealing with
commercial plating operations and you will soon realize why it is (1) an
expensive thing to have someone plate your items, and (2) why so many platers
have gone out of business. For once, the government regulations are not
overkill. There are very real environmental and health concerns related to
the plating business.
I am a retired chemical engineer and there is no way I would consider using
any home chrome plating system no matter who makes it or who endorses it.
RayG
Colorado
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 18:06:27 -0700
Subject: Re: bn1 water pump
This also happened to my new water pump and I understand it is not too
uncommon. The carbon seal surface needs to be run in to provide a waterproof
seal. The problem is that it works best and fastest if the seal is dry. I
dismounted the pump, chucked the drive shaft in a 1/2" drill, spun it on
high speed for about a minute. Problem solved.
Bill Lawrence
John Snyder wrote:
> My new water pump from Moss leaks. I was told it would stop leaking as it
> "wears in". Now have about 60 miles on it, and it seems to be leaking
> less.
>
> ----------
From jbpate at attglobal.net
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 20:15:28 -0500
Subject: SU Carb
Thanks to all who responded to my SU carb question. It sounds like I
need to check the floats, check the overflow valves, and check the
jets. I will work on it this weekend. Barry Pate 1967 BJ8
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 19:38:44 -0600
Subject: Land speed List
Send an E-mail to majordomo@autox.team.net with nothing but
subscribe land-speed
or
subscribe land-speed-digest
in the body..
sorry guys.... K
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 22:38:07 -0500
Subject: Re: SU carb overflow
Barry,
I expect from the description of your symptoms that the float needles are
stuck open. That's why I asked what type you were using. If they were
stuck shut the leak would be from the little banjo pipe drains on the tops
of the floats. Since the gas is coming out of the manifold drains I think
the gas is flowing thru needles that the floats are not closing and running
right through the carbs and out into the manifold -- basically a super-rich
condition.
Two things can cause this: (1) a float that is not floating, thus not
shutting off the gas flow at the float valve, and (2) a float needle that is
stuck open, jamming the lever down so that the float can't lift it. (1) is
easy to diagnose. (2) is only obvious if you hold the float bowl cover
right side up and observe the drop of the little forked lever that works the
needle. The book tells about how the distance between the fork and the top
of the cover should be 7/16" for D type carburettors when the cover is
upside down and the needle is seated (see p. D.8). What they don't go into
is the position of the lever when the cover is right side up. If the lever
can drop too far, the needle can move far enough out of the valve bore to
misalign itself and jam in the open mode. Then the rising level of gas in
the bowl moves the float up against the lever and the needle gets pinned at
an angle half out of the valve. The amount the lever drops is determined by
the little angled tab that sticks back between the two curved ends of the
lever that hang on the pivot pin. The lever should only fall about an inch
down when the cover is right side up. If it drops more than this, bend the
little tab closer to the stop by the pivot pin and
the travel will be reduced.
Doug, 18G
----- Original Message -----
From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: Mr. Finespanner <MisterFinespanner@PRODIGY.NET>
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 8:02 PM
Subject: Re: SU carb overflow
> Doug, Good to hear from you. The fuel is dumping from the manifold not the
> fuel bowls which is the part that is confusing me. When I had a similiar
> problem many, many years ago, the shut off valves were worn and the fuel
> dumped out of the fuel bowls. Wouldn't that happen now rather than from
the
> manifold? Barry
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 21:42:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Dumb carb question
I don't think there are any identifying marks of any on these parts. If you
are concerned that the chambers and pistons may be mismatched (and these are
the parts that might be critical) there is a simple test you can do to see if
they are or are not matched. Place the pistons in the chambers without the
dampers in place and see how long it takes the piston to drop out of the
chamber. This will give an indication of how closely the piston is mated to
the chamber wall. I can't remember what the specified drop time is, but it
seems like it's in the 4 to 6 second range. If one drops very quickly and the
other drops very slowly switch them to see if the times equalize. Again, the
important thing is not whether any particular piston or chamber came assembled
to any particular carburetor body (no matching numbers here) but what parts
operate correctly together.
Bill Lawrence
Bill Katz wrote:
> The question isn't dumb, I was. I had my carb's vacuum chambers/pistons off
> last year when I changed my air filters and replaced some seals, and didn't
> mark them as pairs. The car runs fine, but I was curious if there are any
> markings to denote the matched chamber/piston sets? I've got to take them
> apart again, so figured I should try to make things right if I can.
>
> Bill Katz
> Bay Area, CA
> '67 BJ8
> '94 325is
> http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
From "Amy Turner" <ltturner at usit.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 23:17:32 -0500
Subject: (OT) Millionaire reminder
I'll be on "Who Wants To Be a Millionaire" tomorrow night on ABC, 8:00 EST.
Note the little black cord around my neck. It's not a microphone wire, it's a
bugeye pendant that I think brings me good luck.
Thanks to all who sent their good wishes!
See you on the tube,
Amy
From "R. Markl/B. Council" <rmarkl at bellsouth.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 23:02:06 -0600
Subject: Re: Dumb carb question
A good point. Jim Taylor once told me the ideal piston drop time is 6
to 7 seconds (and that if not in that range to try swapping them, as a
PO may have interchanged them already).
Rudi Markl
100M
ynotink wrote:
>
> I don't think there are any identifying marks of any on these parts. If you
> are concerned that the chambers and pistons may be mismatched (and these are
> the parts that might be critical) there is a simple test you can do to see if
> they are or are not matched. Place the pistons in the chambers without the
> dampers in place and see how long it takes the piston to drop out of the
> chamber. This will give an indication of how closely the piston is mated to
> the chamber wall. I can't remember what the specified drop time is, but it
> seems like it's in the 4 to 6 second range. If one drops very quickly and the
> other drops very slowly switch them to see if the times equalize. Again, the
> important thing is not whether any particular piston or chamber came assembled
> to any particular carburetor body (no matching numbers here) but what parts
> operate correctly together.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> Bill Katz wrote:
>
> > The question isn't dumb, I was. I had my carb's vacuum chambers/pistons off
> > last year when I changed my air filters and replaced some seals, and didn't
> > mark them as pairs. The car runs fine, but I was curious if there are any
> > markings to denote the matched chamber/piston sets? I've got to take them
> > apart again, so figured I should try to make things right if I can.
> >
> > Bill Katz
> > Bay Area, CA
> > '67 BJ8
> > '94 325is
> > http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
rmarkl.vcf]
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 05:46:47 -0500
Subject: bn1 water pump
Thanks to all for your advice on the water pump. Pulled it off last night.
When I rotated the pump there was a bumping/grinding in one spot, on brief
inspection I could see the spring which was very rusty/gunky. I think some
of the rust/crud got loose and wrecked the seal. I'll just replace the
entire pump.
lance
54 bn1
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 12:23:31 +0000
Subject: Re: Batteries & Polarity
Alan
>Would it then make sense to reverse the leads to the coil for a postive ground
>system and cause the reversed polarity to be the correct polarity?
Yes it would and most people recommend this. Just a detail, if you have
an "grounding" wire running from the battery isolation switch such as on
the 100 and other models be sure that this stays with the wire from the
Contact Breaker (CB). If you do not it is possible if the ignition were
left switched on, as the battery isolation switch is rotated for a dead
short to be created.
All the best
>
>Al
>
>John Harper wrote:
>
>> Gary
>>
>> Joking apart Champion the Plug Makers say that it does matter. I
>> reproduce below a section without diagrams etc. from
>>
>> CHAMPION
>> Automotive Technical Service Manual
>> Manual1
>>
>> >If you want to get the theoreticians going, get into the question of whether
>> >or not it makes a difference which direction the spark jumps, and which
>> >direction is better.
>>
>> ************
>>
>> The subject of polarity often causes confusion and deserves a more
>> detailed discussion. Over the years car manufacturers have connected
>> either the positive or negative terminal of the battery to the chassis
>> but in recent years have adopted a negative earth as standard.
>>
>> Most electrical components in the car have one of their leads connected
>> to the chassis, which acts as a common return path to the battery and
>> completes the electrical circuit of which the component is a part.
>>
>> The ignition coil however is connected to the chassis only through the
>> closed contact breaker.
>>
>> If the leads to SW and CB (or to terminals marked respective '+" and
>> "-") are reversed, the current flow through the coil primary is reversed
>> and this in turn reverses the polarity of the coil secondary voltage.
>> Coils are wound so that the output to the rotor arm is negative with
>> respect to the chassis but this depends on the correct primary
>> connections being made.
>>
>> Spark plugs are sensitive to polarity and they will not function as
>> efficiently it the secondary coil voltage is of the wrong polarity.
>>
>> The reason for this sensitivity is as follows. The centre electrode has
>> a higher temperature, normally, than the ground electrode so that more
>> electrons will be released from the hotter metal surface of the centre
>> electrode than from the ground electrode.
>>
>> If the centre electrode polarity is more negative than the ground
>> electrode (which is connected to chassis) then the earth electrode will
>> attract electrons from the centre electrode; but if the coil secondary
>> voltage polarity is reversed, the voltage needed to cause electrons to
>> pass from the earth to the centre electrode (i.e. to make the gap
>> conductive) is increased.
>>
>> Reversed coil polarity can be shown on an oscilloscope but a less
>> sophisticated test is to disconnect a plug lead with the engine running
>> and form an arc between the plug terminal and the end of the cable.
>>
>> If the point of a soft lead pencil is placed in the path of the arc then
>> a shower at sparks will be created, either on the plug side (if polarity
>> is correct) or on the cable side (if the polarity is incorrect). The
>> condition of the plug will also indicate reversed coil polarity if this
>> situation has prevailed for some time. The use of the oscilloscope is a
>> more sophisticated means of determining the states of the engine,
>> ignition and fuel systems than the condition of the spark plug.
>>
>> *****************
>>
>> All the best
>> --
>> John Harper
>
>[ A MIME text / x-vcard part was included here. ]
>
--
John Harper
From Earle Knobloch <armynavy at gte.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 08:17:13 -0500
Subject: Aeroscreens
Hello all,
A friend just uncovered a set of original Aeroscreens with the AH logo
raised on the front center.
He is not a member of the group so I am passing this info for him.
I have no interest so if you want more info contact Jack at
jbfmbeach@hotmail.com
Earle Knobloch
'67 BJ8 (soon to be on the road after 7 years)
From rcarbone at monmouth.com
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 08:08:40 PST
Subject: Interesting item on eBay web site item#551901162: Austin Healey
To the list: I saw this item for sale at eBayMotors,item No.551901162. Its New
old Stock and thought that someone on the list might be interested. EDS
Title of item: Austin Healey 100-4 NOS Exhaust Pipe
Seller: ah_bits
Starts: Jan-30-01 07:15:52 PST
Ends: Feb-04-01 07:15:52 PST
Price: Starts at $20.00
To bid on the item, go to:
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=551901162
Item Description:
Austin Healey 100-4 (BN1/BN2) NOS (Unused) Exhaust Pipe. Payment
accepted in US currency by Cashier Check, Money Order, or Personal Check
(shipment after clearing). Buyer pays actual shipping and insurance charges.
Item is located in central New Jersey.
Visit eBay, the world's largest Personal Trading Community at
http://www.ebay.com
From "Larry Hewlett" <hewlett at cablelan.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 10:21:03 -0800
Subject: Windshield Post holes?
Listers
I plan to have the windshield frame components rechromed during the
restoration of my BJ7 and notice that there seems to be several "extra" holes
(to me) in the windshield posts. I haven't found a source with a good detailed
illustration of the windshield pillar.
On both posts slightly above and closer to the back edge from the toggle hooks
there are remnants of a poprivet? Only on the passengers side there is another
hole approx. 8.5" below the first and approx. 1" above the support bracket
with a small Phillips head screw in it?
The Body Service Parts List and part suppliers' catalogues show a pillar seal
but no attaching rivets or screws.
Regards
Larry Hewlett
BJ7
Peachland, B.C.
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 10:50:05 -0800
Subject: Re: Windshield Post holes?
My BJ7 has three "extra" empty holes on each pillar: one above the J
hook and closer to the back edge, one about 2" below the J hook mount
and one maybe 5" below that -- all in a line.
I had to pull the pillar seal off to be able to see these and I didn't
what to yank it all the way off to investigate further. On my car,
the pillar seal is a push-on fit, much like the rest of the trim. My
car isn't what anyone would call original in its top and trimmings, so
I don't know what might have fitted there coming from the factory.
These holes appear to have been there forever, nicely chromed and
clean. I don't think these pillars were ever rechromed; nothing else
on the car was rechromed.
-Roland
'63 BJ7
On Wed, 31 Jan 2001 10:21:03 -0800, "Larry Hewlett"
<hewlett@cablelan.net> wrote:
::
:: Listers
::
:: I plan to have the windshield frame components rechromed during the
:: restoration of my BJ7 and notice that there seems to be several "extra" holes
:: (to me) in the windshield posts. I haven't found a source with a good
:detailed
:: illustration of the windshield pillar.
:: On both posts slightly above and closer to the back edge from the toggle
:hooks
:: there are remnants of a poprivet? Only on the passengers side there is
:another
:: hole approx. 8.5" below the first and approx. 1" above the support bracket
:: with a small Phillips head screw in it?
::
:: The Body Service Parts List and part suppliers' catalogues show a pillar seal
:: but no attaching rivets or screws.
::
:: Regards
:: Larry Hewlett
:: BJ7
:: Peachland, B.C.
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 14:19:59 EST
Subject: Re: Windshield Post holes?
The flange on the windshield post has four holes that are there to hole the
door seal in place on the wondshield post. You will need to put a pop rivet
in thru the inner part of the door seal thru the hole in the post .
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 16:21:45 -0500
Subject: Re: SU carb overflow
> My car is now almost ready to crank after 20 years of silence. I've got
> good oil pressure. The intake seems to be getting too much fuel and it
> is overflowing out of the manifold tubes at each end. The fuel bowls at
> the carbs are not overflowing. Do I need to readjust the floats in the
> fuel bowls to shut off the pump sooner? I'm not sure exactly what is
> happening inside the carbs. The shut off valves/floats in the carbs were
> adjusted according to the manual. Thanks, Barry Pate 1967 BJ8
I believe the mention you made of the oil pressure being good though it has
yet to be fired up would indicate to me you have been spinning the engine
over without ignition to get the oil circulated fully. This is of course a
good idea, but what you've likely done is allowed the cylinders to do their
job and pull a lot of raw fuel into the cylinders and of course load up the
intake manifold. The manifold overflow tubes are doing their job, trying to
expel the excess fuel.
I'd say this has nothing to do with float levels. Fuel would kick out the
overflows if they were flooding, whereas you indicate they are not.
Just start the engine and allow things to fully warm up before commencing
with any adjustments.
Congrats, and good luck.
Rich Chrysler
From "Larry Hewlett" <hewlett at cablelan.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 13:18:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Windshield Post Holes
Thanks to all that responded. There were no seals on the car when I bought it
so was a bit confused(easy at my age) and when one side had two holes and the
other just one. I'll drill a few more holes before taking it to be plated,
that way they can remove the skid marks from the drill!!
Regards
Larry Hewlett
BJ7
Peachland,B.C.
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 14:48:00 -0800
Subject: Rear Axle Seemingly offset relative to body
Hello Listers,
On my BN6, the rear axle seems to be slightly offset, in that the left tire
is just inside the fender and the right tire is just outside the fender.
Would like to know if this is normal "Brutish" craftsmanship or can the axle
placement on the springs be adjusted?
Thank you in advance for any information.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 17:46:49 -0500
Subject: bumper painting
Hi Listers,
I am giving some attention to my rear bumper on the BN7 since I have it off to
go rear bumperless for a while. Note that the bar and its overriders have
been replated. I must reweld one spot on a bracket.
Do I recall correctly from some previous discussion that the insides of the
bumper bar and overriders should be painted a silver (Al) color?
Thanks for any responses.
Keith Pennell
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 17:57:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Windshield Post holes?
Larry,
Sounds like the holes where the pop rivets are placed to hold the Furflex
seal. I recall four on each side. On my BJ8 I used very short chrome
posidrive screws.
Keith
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Hewlett <hewlett@cablelan.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 1:21 PM
Subject: Windshield Post holes?
>
> Listers
>
> I plan to have the windshield frame components rechromed during the
> restoration of my BJ7 and notice that there seems to be several "extra"
holes
> (to me) in the windshield posts. I haven't found a source with a good
detailed
> illustration of the windshield pillar.
> On both posts slightly above and closer to the back edge from the toggle
hooks
> there are remnants of a poprivet? Only on the passengers side there is
another
> hole approx. 8.5" below the first and approx. 1" above the support bracket
> with a small Phillips head screw in it?
>
> The Body Service Parts List and part suppliers' catalogues show a pillar
seal
> but no attaching rivets or screws.
>
> Regards
> Larry Hewlett
> BJ7
> Peachland, B.C.
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 19:03:11 EST
Subject: Re: Rear Axle Seemingly offset relative to body
This is a very common on lots of Healeys. We have not come up with any sure
fire cure for all of them. A couple have been the curve of the fender.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 19:47:40 -0600
Subject: Re: Rear Axle Seemingly offset relative to body
ALL RIGHT, Amy!!!!
Dishwasher on the way or is it already installed
Congrats!!!!!!!!!!
Ed
From "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 20:48:55 -0500
Subject: Amy Turner - Millionaire
Just watched Amy on Who Wants to be a Millionaire and, boy did she plug
Healeys -- and got Regis to do it also. Her opening was great and despite, the
tension she must have been under, she kept mentioning Healeys. I stopped
counting aftet about 15 mentions! She is quite a singer also!
Nice going, Amy
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
From "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6 at mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 20:51:30 -0500
Subject: Re: (OT) Millionaire reminder
Way To Go Amy...now get that dishwasher and the Healey parts you need.
The name Austin-Healey was mentioned on national TV more tonight than I'm
sure anyone can remember. Great job.
Larry Mercier
Atlanta AHC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Amy Turner" <ltturner@usit.net>
To: "Big Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 11:17 PM
Subject: (OT) Millionaire reminder
>
> I'll be on "Who Wants To Be a Millionaire" tomorrow night on ABC, 8:00
EST.
> Note the little black cord around my neck. It's not a microphone wire,
it's a
> bugeye pendant that I think brings me good luck.
>
> Thanks to all who sent their good wishes!
>
> See you on the tube,
> Amy
From "Eugene R. Montresor" <ermontresor at snet.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 20:46:07 -0500
Subject: Yeh Amy!
Amy: Great job. 32K wow.. get the parts catalog! My wife and I
guessed the same.. You looked so relaxed and what a voice!
Gene
64 BJ8 (under construction)
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 20:11:10 -0600
Subject: Right On Amy!
Great performance Amy and great for the marque!!!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 21:37:55 -0500
Subject: Millionaire
Well, she didn't do too bad----$32K feels pretty good. I liked the way she
talked about the Austin Healey----even had Regis talking about them. Too
bad she didn't know spaceships!! I knew the answer Ann, but you just
couldn't hear me.
Anyway, congratulations and good luck in your "Broadway career"---good
singing!
tom
From "mel" <mel5 at mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 21:39:01 -0500
Subject: Amy Turner
Amy-
Thanks for the headsup on your appearance on "Who wants To Be a Millionaire.
You were just wonderful, and quite talented also. You looked so natural you
could be Regis's side kick, Regis and the "Healey Lady".
What a great day for healeydom.
Good Luck
Mel Brunet
67 BJ8
Land O'Lakes, FL
From JBHawkes at aol.com
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 22:04:11 EST
Subject: BMIHT Certificate
Thanks to all who responded to my request for info regarding a BMIHT
certificate. I pass the following along for others who may want a
certificate for their cars:
A certificate can be requested by e-mail. All that is required is the Car
Number (VIN #) and a credit card number to pay the $40 charge for each
certificate, along with the name of the person requesting the certificate and
snail mail address. The e-mail address is "gillian.bardsley@land-rover.com"
I sent the request containing the above information by e-mail on Sunday 21
Jan. I assume Mr. Bardsley received it Monday morning, 22 Jan. The
certificates (I requested two, one BN2 and one BJ8) were postmarked in
Warwick on 23 Jan, and I received them today, 31 Jan. Ten days from start to
finish, mostly spent in snail mail from England to the USA. Impressive
turnaround! And great fun seeing the original color scheme and equipment as
ordered from the factory (along with those numbers that seem to cause so much
controversy).
Again, "gillian.bardsley@land-rover.com" is the address.
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 19:38:45 -0800
Subject: Amy
Hey! This is just like the elections. You folks back east have revealed the
results of Amy's adventure. Now we on the left coast have to decide whether
to go to the polls (TV) or notl. OK. You know we will. Have to see what you
are all raving about. Len.
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 21:09:17 -0800
Subject: Millionaire
Congratulations Amy. All that knowledge with a great personality. As
the boys in South Georgia used to say . . . "ya done did good". Just
think, next year, the Blackstone in Chicago, then off to Broadway.
Good luck, you made us proud.
Terry Blubaugh
From "Amy Turner" <ltturner at usit.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 00:45:02 -0500
Subject: (OT) Many thanks!
I watched "Who Wants To Be a Millionaire" far from home tonight and came home
to find a mailbox full of congratulations. Thank you all so much!
This whole adventure has been a great thrill -- qualifying for the show,
getting the call that I was going to New York, practicing the fastest finger
technique, getting to the hot seat, singing before millions, and winning a
nice chunk of money! Still, it's nice to know that on a warm weekend I'll be
able to pull Healium out of storage and go cruising through the Tennessee
mountains. I think my smile will be just a *little* bit bigger, and, of
course, those dishpan hands will no longer affect my shifting technique.
Thanks again for your kind words!
Amy
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