Seems a little politically incorrect to target women as the only dangerous
drivers. I've seen many men doing the exact same thing.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <mlupynec@globalserve.net>; <ryan@jimryan.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2000 11:36 AM
Subject: Re: Not Healey related, cheap cars for teens
>
> In a message dated 11/29/00 8:32:25 PM, mlupynec@globalserve.net writes:
>
> << Older Suzuki Swift or Metro Geo. Bombed around in a 3 cylinder for
> a week about 10 years ago. It was a gas.
>
> Mike L.
> 60A,67E,59Bug >>
>
> Wouldn't go that direction -- these are really LITTLE tin cans, with no
crash
> protection against some soccer mom in an SUV trying to get her sophomore
to
> school on time while arranging play dates for her five year old on her
cell
> phone. Wouldn't even need to be his fault or in his power to avoid.
>
> I'd go with something big, interesting, funky, and easy to work on --
Maybe
> the Car Talk favorite, the Dodge Dart.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 01 Dec 2000 08:44:22 -0500
Subject: Re: AH3000 III transmission and Smitty Toyota 5 speed
Hi Dave,
Your original transmission does not sound to be too bad. The inhibitor switch
and oil leakage are usually minor things to correct during a rebuild. You may
need a 1/2nd slider hub and perhaps a 2nd gear to solve the jump out problem
but again much less than the $1100 for the conversion and you still have an
original car.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
"Murphy, David (Southfield)" wrote:
> Per the dipstick, my 3000 seems to consume tranny oil (30wt non detergent)
> at the rate of 1 quart per hundred miles. It doesn't leak when parked.
> Besides having a bad 3-4 OD inhibiter switch in the shift linkage it
> occasionally jumps out of second gear on coast down. Otherwise the tranny
> and clutch work fine.
>
> I'm trying to decide whether it is wiser to:
> a) just replace the inhibiter switch and live with the oil consumption and
> occasional jumping out of second,
> b) replace the inhibiter switch, try and repair the second gear retention
> problem and fix the oil ejection.
> c) do a full tranny overhaul.
> d) convert to a Toyota 5 speed.
>
> What does everyone recommend?
> Does anyone have any experience they can relate to me on the Smitty
> conversion?
>
> Dave Murphy
> Dearborn Michigan
From "Dave BOWERS" <BOWERSDA at uvsc.edu>
Date: Fri, 01 Dec 2000 06:47:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Not Healey related, cheap cars for teens
Amen, not to mention the contractors in 3/4 ton 4X4s w/full utility beds -
ouch, or the triple semi rigs, or the rice-rockets, or
delapidated-when-will-it-fall-aparts, or well - you get the idea. It just aint
a safe place to be. Ahh, for
the good old days when all I had to worry about was the geezer down the
road with his lead sled.
OTOH: Now I'm the geezer down the road and my grandson is me (?)...
And he wants to drive MY Healey when I get it running.
Dave B^)
56 BN2
>>> "ray feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com> 11/30/00 11:26:30 PM >>>
Seems a little politically incorrect to target women as the only dangerous
drivers. I've seen many men doing the exact same thing.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 15:47:36 +0100
Subject: Not Healey related, cheap cars for teens
Shame on you all.........
Your afraid that your son might hurt himself...... right?.... So.. you think
that old cars are safe.. huh?
Well... I let MY son drive my Mercedes 500SE.... (included ALL the "newer"
safety-euipment).
Now.... he KNOWS he HAS to drive that one carefully.......
I'm left with our VW - bug..1960...27HP.... I KNOW I have to drive that one
VERY carefully....and as I am an experienced driver.. I have no problem doing
so.
Climbing down from the soapbox now..... getting my flame-suit on.... ;-)
E.Larssen 60BT7
From DMMax at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 10:25:39 EST
Subject: Re: [Fwd: The Highjacking of the Presidency] NOT HEALEY
Fred.Scheuble@triaton-na.com writes:
<< but he INVENTED the internet! (WINK!) >>
Fred...
Gore didn't invent in internet. What he did do is push the funding of the
ARPA net, the military industrial complex's net that became the internet. He
did this when almost no one wanted to fund this then new fangle thing.
Al's enemies have been successful at the negative spinning him on many
technicalities. Busy Americans take to these half truths way too easily.
The world is not necessarily a fair place. Escape in the roadster helps
relieve the many frustrations !!! The convertibles might too
;-)
Cheers, David Maxwell
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 10:57:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Not Healey related, cheap cars for teens
Eyvind, I'm with you - give the kid a 500 SE.
Otherwise give him a 1972 Dodge death trap (or a somewhat safer
Geo Metro).
If I recall, Jim Ryan's original criteria were -
1) under a $1000
2) safe, memorable, simple to work on
3) eats New Hampshire snow drifts for breakfast
Tough specs! I'd say go shopping, have some fun, there really
won't be that many choices to pick thru under a thou.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Eyvind Larssen <seel@online.no>
To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: December 1, 2000 9:47 AM
Subject: Not Healey related, cheap cars for teens
>
> Shame on you all.........
> Your afraid that your son might hurt himself...... right?....
So.. you think that old cars are safe.. huh?
> Well... I let MY son drive my Mercedes 500SE.... (included ALL
the "newer" safety-euipment).
> Now.... he KNOWS he HAS to drive that one carefully.......
> I'm left with our VW - bug..1960...27HP.... I KNOW I have to
drive that one VERY carefully....and as I am an experienced
driver.. I have no problem doing so.
> Climbing down from the soapbox now..... getting my flame-suit
on.... ;-)
> E.Larssen 60BT7
From CHAMPTLCGT at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 11:07:31 EST
Subject: Fwd: minor restoration questions
Return-path: <CHAMPTLCGT@aol.com>
From: CHAMPTLCGT@aol.com
Full-name: CHAMPTLCGT
Message-ID: <bd.953d7f6.2757c6f4@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2000 10:06:28 EST
Subject: Fwd: minor restoration questions
To: healeys-digest@autox.team.net
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: Windows AOL sub 115
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/mixed by demime 0.97c
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain
Return-path: <CHAMPTLCGT@aol.com>
From: CHAMPTLCGT@aol.com
Full-name: CHAMPTLCGT
Message-ID: <54.c715455.275525ac@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 10:13:48 EST
Subject: minor restoration questions
To: $SENDER@autox.team.net
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: Windows AOL sub 115
Listers-
I have a few questions regarding my 1959 Ah 3000 MK1 and would
appreciate your advice;
1)What is the length of the studs that go from the intake manifold to the
carbs? I bought a set from Moss and they are only 2" and I am told that the
ones from Dennis Welch are 2.5". My carbs have 3 cork spacers (per the book)
and I still have to put on a heat shield and even now (without the heat
shield) the nuts just come to the very end of the stud.
2)My oil pressure runs at 40ls while running and atr 20 lbs while at idle. I
checked my rod bearings (looked good) and put a 1/4-28 bolt behind the oil
pressure relif valve which added to the pressure about 2 lbs. This was
recommended to me by a very reputable Healey guy. The valve train does not
spurt oil either. I have an oil cooler installed too which could explain
some of the lack of pressure. Should I worry about this pressure or is it OK?
I have thought about putting in a new oil pump as well.The car does not seem
to smoke when I drive it either.
3)The foam bushing washers on my steering arms look shot(gone actually). I
purchased new ones but it looks difficult to install them. So should I
attempt to do this or should I do an entire front end rebuild at the same
time, how difficult is it to do a front end ? The car drives ok but the
front end has not been redone to my knowledge and I may be doing some
competitive rallying soon..
4)I installed new battery hold down rods that I made up from 3/8ths threaded
rod and a angle iron to hold the battery in place. I covered the battery
with the plastic black cover that Moss sells. The system works ok but looks
lousy...any ideas on better systems?
5)I bought some new door seals from either Moss or Norman Nock and they don't
seem to fit. These seals go on the inside of the door and are towards the
top,they are shaped in an "L" shape and I believe that they are rivited on. I
am curious if any one knows of replacements that fit?
6)I am interested in securing a fire extinguisher inside of the car and am
not sure/wher or how to do it?
Thanks for the help, Tom Champion HBT7 L 4577
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 01 Dec 2000 11:24:33 -0500
Subject: Cape Cod Motor company?
Folks,
Has anyone ever heard of a company named Cape Cod Motor company that
did
Rx7 rotary engined conversions to Bugeyes? One of their cars just came up
for sale, and I hear the company doesn't exist anymore...
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
88 Rx7 conv
From L W <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 12:15:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Battery Tender
Hi all:
Anyone have a suggestion or favorite battery tender, battery-pal,
battery-buddy. The kind you leave on all the time which monitors your battery
and charges when neccessary. TIA
lance
54 bn1
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 09:27:50 -0800
Subject: RE: Battery Tender
I've used one of the little Shaeffer Mity-Mite chargers that we sell here on
my sailboat for a couple of years now. Works great even in the miserable
marine environment. Not that a peaceful harbor in Santa Barbara is
miserable, but I'm sure you get my point.
Jonathan Lane
-----Original Message-----
From: L W [mailto:brshwrks@bellatlantic.net]
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2000 9:16 AM
To: Healey
Subject: Battery Tender
Hi all:
Anyone have a suggestion or favorite battery tender, battery-pal,
battery-buddy. The kind you leave on all the time which monitors your
battery and charges when neccessary. TIA
lance
54 bn1
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Fri, 01 Dec 2000 10:21:45 -0800
Subject: Re: Battery Tender
Here's an email on the one I use. Yes, I paid for it. No, I don't
own stock in Heliokinetics. Jim Albeck is a member of the AHC San
Diego :-)
-Roland
from an earlier posting:
:: To: Awgertoo@aol.com
:: Subject: Re: Brake / Clutch pedals & Battery Maintainer
:: From: Agoura Jim <bjate@pacbell.net>
:: Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 20:38:43 +0000
:: CC: BrowningD@tce.com, healeys@autox.team.net
::
:: Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
:: >
:: > Fer sure on that. I was out driving yesterday and was warm as toast.
:: > Speaking of cold weather, I recently purchased the Battery Maintainer that
:is
:: > advertised in one or both of the Club mag's and it worked so well that I
:: > permanantly wired it in via a trolling motor power inlet receptacle mounted
:: > inconspicuously on the forward face of the boot and I just plug in the
:little
:: > thingie between rides when the temperatures fall off! Yeah, I know--it's
:not
:: > original, blah blah blah! No affilliations except that I am married to the
:: > guy's stockbroker's future ex-wife.
:: >
:: > Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD.
:: > 1955 BN1 (now starts in any weather)
:: Micheal,
:: Thanks for the testimonial....the battery minder is the SureCharge IV
:: and Iam affilliated...e-mail <bjate@aol.com> for info.
:: Thanks,
:: Jim
:: Agoura,Ca
::
On Fri, 1 Dec 2000 12:15:47 -0500 (EST), L W
<brshwrks@bellatlantic.net> wrote:
::
:: Hi all:
:: Anyone have a suggestion or favorite battery tender, battery-pal,
:battery-buddy. The kind you leave on all the time which monitors your battery
:and charges when neccessary. TIA
:: lance
:: 54 bn1
From Earle Knobloch <armynavy at gte.net>
Date: Fri, 01 Dec 2000 13:28:46 -0500
Subject: Gross Jets
Hi all,
Can anyone lead me toward a set of Gross Jets for my '67 BJ8??
Thank you
Earle Knobloch
BJ8 (nearly ready for it's maiden voyage)
From Earle Knobloch <armynavy at gte.net>
Date: Fri, 01 Dec 2000 13:29:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Battery Tender
L W wrote:
> Hi all:
> Anyone have a suggestion or favorite battery tender, battery-pal,
>battery-buddy. The kind you leave on all the time which monitors your battery
>and charges when neccessary. TIA
> lance
> 54 bn1
I have three Sure Charge Auto Float Model 12612A which I keep the "not to often
used "car batteries charged. They have been working well. I bought them at
Northern Hydraulics for
about $39.
Earle
BJ8
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 14:56:57 -0500
Subject: Re; minor restoration questions
Hi Tom.....I can't really help with your questions (but I'm sure
someone will), however, would you mind giving us some more
information on the 1/4-28 bolt added to the oil pressure relief
valve....I'm having trouble picturing this.
Stephen Hutchings
From JMcD206 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 01 Dec 2000 15:53:24 EST
Subject: Re: Grose Jets
I am looking for a set for my '57 BN4 (H4's)also. I have them back ordered at
MOSS but no word on when they will be available.
Jim McDermott
57 BN4
In a message dated Fri, 1 Dec 2000 1:34:37 PM Eastern Standard Time, Earle
Knobloch <armynavy@gte.net> writes:
<<
Hi all,
Can anyone lead me toward a set of Gross Jets for my '67 BJ8??
Thank you
Earle Knobloch
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 13:07:43 -0800
Subject: RE: Grose Jets
I know there were some quality issues going on with these things. In mid
October we heard that they had been sorted out and were supposed to be
shipping fairly soon, but I still don't have any official word. Hopefully
they won't be too much longer.
Jonathan Lane
-----Original Message-----
From: JMcD206@aol.com [mailto:JMcD206@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2000 12:53 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Grose Jets
I am looking for a set for my '57 BN4 (H4's)also. I have them back ordered
at
MOSS but no word on when they will be available.
Jim McDermott
57 BN4
In a message dated Fri, 1 Dec 2000 1:34:37 PM Eastern Standard Time, Earle
Knobloch <armynavy@gte.net> writes:
<<
Hi all,
Can anyone lead me toward a set of Gross Jets for my '67 BJ8??
Thank you
Earle Knobloch
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 13:32:09 -0800
Subject: RE: Grose Jets
Look in a Hemmings or maybe on their web page and deal with the
manufacturers direct.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: JMcD206@aol.com [mailto:JMcD206@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2000 12:53 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Grose Jets
I am looking for a set for my '57 BN4 (H4's)also. I have them back ordered
at
MOSS but no word on when they will be available.
Jim McDermott
57 BN4
In a message dated Fri, 1 Dec 2000 1:34:37 PM Eastern Standard Time, Earle
Knobloch <armynavy@gte.net> writes:
<<
Hi all,
Can anyone lead me toward a set of Gross Jets for my '67 BJ8??
Thank you
Earle Knobloch
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 13:38:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Battery Tender
Roland,
I have six (6) of Jim's battery maintainers (one 6v and five 12v) all have
and are working for me, always a fresh battery.
Kirk Kvam
P.S. Jim's a nice guy too, give him the business.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@cts.com>
To: "L W" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
Cc: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2000 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: Battery Tender
>
> Here's an email on the one I use. Yes, I paid for it. No, I don't
> own stock in Heliokinetics. Jim Albeck is a member of the AHC San
> Diego :-)
> -Roland
> from an earlier posting:
> :: To: Awgertoo@aol.com
> :: Subject: Re: Brake / Clutch pedals & Battery Maintainer
> :: From: Agoura Jim <bjate@pacbell.net>
> :: Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 20:38:43 +0000
> :: CC: BrowningD@tce.com, healeys@autox.team.net
> ::
> :: Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> :: >
> :: > Fer sure on that. I was out driving yesterday and was warm as toast.
> :: > Speaking of cold weather, I recently purchased the Battery Maintainer
that is
> :: > advertised in one or both of the Club mag's and it worked so well
that I
> :: > permanantly wired it in via a trolling motor power inlet receptacle
mounted
> :: > inconspicuously on the forward face of the boot and I just plug in
the little
> :: > thingie between rides when the temperatures fall off! Yeah, I
know--it's not
> :: > original, blah blah blah! No affilliations except that I am married
to the
> :: > guy's stockbroker's future ex-wife.
> :: >
> :: > Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD.
> :: > 1955 BN1 (now starts in any weather)
> :: Micheal,
> :: Thanks for the testimonial....the battery minder is the SureCharge IV
> :: and Iam affilliated...e-mail <bjate@aol.com> for info.
> :: Thanks,
> :: Jim
> :: Agoura,Ca
> ::
>
> On Fri, 1 Dec 2000 12:15:47 -0500 (EST), L W
> <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net> wrote:
>
> ::
> :: Hi all:
> :: Anyone have a suggestion or favorite battery tender, battery-pal,
battery-buddy. The kind you leave on all the time which monitors your
battery and charges when neccessary. TIA
> :: lance
> :: 54 bn1
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 18:35:34 EST
Subject: Re: Cape Cod Motor company?
In a message dated 12/1/00 11:28:18 AM, mbrouill@ix.netcom.com writes:
<< Has anyone ever heard of a company named Cape Cod Motor company that did
Rx7 rotary engined conversions to Bugeyes? One of their cars just came up
for sale, and I hear the company doesn't exist anymore...
>>
Mike,
The company owner brought one to the AHCA Northeast Region's annual Cape Cod
meet
10-15 years ago. Everyone was much impressed. Well-engineered conversion
with
suspension and brake mods to match. Those who got to try it out
(unfortunately, not me) were even more impressed. This car went like stink
and handled to match. A bunch of us were reminiscing about the car at the
Lime Rock vintage races this year.
I'd be interested to hear the asking price. If you don't jump on this car, I
think I might now more than a few people who would.
Rick
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 19:00:28 EST
Subject: Re: Not Healey related, cheap cars for teens
In a message dated 12/1/00 9:43:24 AM, seel@online.no writes:
<<Well... I let MY son drive my Mercedes 500SE.... (included ALL the "newer"
safety-euipment)...... getting my flame-suit on.... ;-)>>
No flame from me, I'm just wondering if I could be adopted. I'm 50 yrs old
and can keep my room pretty neat. <G>
Rick
From "Chris Heide" <cheide at pitnet.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 19:29:14 -0600
Subject: A great Shockwave flash movie
Check out this new flash movie that I downloaded just now ... It's Great
Bye
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/x-msdownload which had
a name of creative.exe]
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 20:36:34 EST
Subject: Re: A great Shockwave flash movie
In a message dated 12/01/2000 7:32:32 PM Central Standard Time,
cheide@pitnet.net writes:
> Check out this new flash movie that I downloaded just now ... It's Great
> Bye
>
> [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/x-msdownload which
> had a name of creative.exe]
>
Chris:
Nice to learn that there is another IDIOT that can't read the
instructions that came with you're signing up with The List. Makes my heart
warm.
NOT!!
Ed
From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 19:10:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Not Healey related, cheap cars for teens
Don't forget the geezer down the road was responsible for the accident that
killed James Dean. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave BOWERS" <BOWERSDA@uvsc.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2000 7:47 AM
Subject: Re: Not Healey related, cheap cars for teens
>
> Amen, not to mention the contractors in 3/4 ton 4X4s w/full utility
beds -
> ouch, or the triple semi rigs, or the rice-rockets, or
delapidated-when-will-it-fall-aparts, or well - you get the idea. It just
aint a safe place to be. Ahh, for
> the good old days when all I had to worry about was the geezer down the
> road with his lead sled.
> OTOH: Now I'm the geezer down the road and my grandson is me (?)...
> And he wants to drive MY Healey when I get it running.
>
> Dave B^)
> 56 BN2
>
> >>> "ray feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com> 11/30/00 11:26:30 PM >>>
> Seems a little politically incorrect to target women as the only dangerous
> drivers. I've seen many men doing the exact same thing.
> RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 19:11:20 -0600
Subject: Re: Not Healey related, cheap cars for teens
When are you going to let him drive your Healey? RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eyvind Larssen" <seel@online.no>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2000 8:47 AM
Subject: Not Healey related, cheap cars for teens
>
> Shame on you all.........
> Your afraid that your son might hurt himself...... right?.... So.. you
think that old cars are safe.. huh?
> Well... I let MY son drive my Mercedes 500SE.... (included ALL the "newer"
safety-euipment).
> Now.... he KNOWS he HAS to drive that one carefully.......
> I'm left with our VW - bug..1960...27HP.... I KNOW I have to drive that
one VERY carefully....and as I am an experienced driver.. I have no problem
doing so.
> Climbing down from the soapbox now..... getting my flame-suit on.... ;-)
> E.Larssen 60BT7
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 18:19:27 -0800
Subject: RE: A great Shockwave flash movie
Ed, sit down and cool your jets.
The email that came from Chris's account was sent automatically by a
computer "worm". Chris didn't do it. Unfortunately, Chris (or someone using
his email account) must have clicked on the attachment (creative.exe) and
started rogue application.
Read about it here:
http://www.wired.com/news/technology/0,1282,40457,00.html
Interesting enough, part of the worm's effect is to call the now infected
user an "idiot" (because of their use of a Microsoft OS).
If you get an email that wants you to start an application, or simply "click
here", don't! Even if it looks like it was sent by someone you know. The
message that Chris's email account sent to the Healey List was sent to EVERY
email address in Chris's address book.
Brad
'55 Hundred
BN1 #226796
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of JustBrits@aol.com
> Sent: Friday, December 01, 2000 5:37 PM
> To: cheide@pitnet.net; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: A great Shockwave flash movie
>
>
>
> In a message dated 12/01/2000 7:32:32 PM Central Standard Time,
> cheide@pitnet.net writes:
>
>
> > Check out this new flash movie that I downloaded just now ... It's Great
> > Bye
> >
> > [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type
> application/x-msdownload which
> > had a name of creative.exe]
> >
>
>
> Chris:
>
> Nice to learn that there is another IDIOT that can't read the
> instructions that came with you're signing up with The List.
> Makes my heart
> warm.
>
> NOT!!
>
> Ed
From timoran at ticnet.com
Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2000 02:41:17 GMT
Subject: Re: A great Shockwave flash movie
MUST LIVE IN FLORIDA ! !
-------------------------------
JustBrits@aol.com writes:
>
> In a message dated 12/01/2000 7:32:32 PM Central Standard Time,
> cheide@pitnet.net writes:
>
>
> > Check out this new flash movie that I downloaded just now ... It's Great
> > Bye
> >
> > [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/x-msdownload which
> > had a name of creative.exe]
> >
>
>
> Chris:
>
> Nice to learn that there is another IDIOT that can't read the
> instructions that came with you're signing up with The List. Makes my heart
> warm.
>
> NOT!!
>
> Ed
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 22:58:16 -0500
Subject: RE: minor restoration questions
Oil pressure: Mine was running about the same as you describe when
I got it and I managed to put more than 24k additional miles before one of
the
pistons failed.
Front suspension: Foam bushing washers? Are these the one the ones
where the front "A" arms are attached to the frame? If so, replacement
is pretty straight forward. Do one side at a time so that you have
a fully assembled setup to compare to when you reassemble. Your shop manual
should have a good description of how to do this job.
If possible, check to see if you have any play in your king pins before
you take things apart since you will have to undo the lower outer "A" arm
bushings in order to get the "A" arms off to replace the inner bushings.
There have been several postings to this list explaining how to use four
long bolts to safely relieve the compression on the front springs. If
you cannot find them in the archives, post another note and one of us
will be glad to describe the procedure.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of CHAMPTLCGT@aol.com
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2000 11:08 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Fwd: minor restoration questions
Listers-
I have a few questions regarding my 1959 Ah 3000 MK1 and would
appreciate your advice;
1)What is the length of the studs that go from the intake manifold to the
carbs? I bought a set from Moss and they are only 2" and I am told that the
ones from Dennis Welch are 2.5". My carbs have 3 cork spacers (per the
book)
and I still have to put on a heat shield and even now (without the heat
shield) the nuts just come to the very end of the stud.
2)My oil pressure runs at 40ls while running and atr 20 lbs while at idle.
I
checked my rod bearings (looked good) and put a 1/4-28 bolt behind the oil
pressure relif valve which added to the pressure about 2 lbs. This was
recommended to me by a very reputable Healey guy. The valve train does not
spurt oil either. I have an oil cooler installed too which could explain
some of the lack of pressure. Should I worry about this pressure or is it
OK?
I have thought about putting in a new oil pump as well.The car does not seem
to smoke when I drive it either.
3)The foam bushing washers on my steering arms look shot(gone actually). I
purchased new ones but it looks difficult to install them. So should I
attempt to do this or should I do an entire front end rebuild at the same
time, how difficult is it to do a front end ? The car drives ok but the
front end has not been redone to my knowledge and I may be doing some
competitive rallying soon..
4)I installed new battery hold down rods that I made up from 3/8ths threaded
rod and a angle iron to hold the battery in place. I covered the battery
with the plastic black cover that Moss sells. The system works ok but looks
lousy...any ideas on better systems?
5)I bought some new door seals from either Moss or Norman Nock and they
don't
seem to fit. These seals go on the inside of the door and are towards the
top,they are shaped in an "L" shape and I believe that they are rivited on.
I
am curious if any one knows of replacements that fit?
6)I am interested in securing a fire extinguisher inside of the car and am
not sure/wher or how to do it?
Thanks for the help, Tom Champion HBT7 L 4577
From "Chris Heide" <cheide at pitnet.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 22:24:34 -0600
Subject: A great Shockwave flash movie
Check out this new flash movie that I downloaded just now ... It's Great
Bye
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 01 Dec 2000 21:24:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Not Healey related, cheap cars for teens
The way I heard it Mr. Dean had only a nodding acquaintance with speed limits
and should probably accept (posthumously) at least part of the blame. Part of
defensive driving is learning to stay away from the geezer up the street. I
only wish I could get away from the one in the mirror.
Bill Lawrence
ray feehan wrote:
> Don't forget the geezer down the road was responsible for the accident that
> killed James Dean. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave BOWERS" <BOWERSDA@uvsc.edu>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, December 01, 2000 7:47 AM
> Subject: Re: Not Healey related, cheap cars for teens
>
> >
> > Amen, not to mention the contractors in 3/4 ton 4X4s w/full utility
> beds -
> > ouch, or the triple semi rigs, or the rice-rockets, or
> delapidated-when-will-it-fall-aparts, or well - you get the idea. It just
> aint a safe place to be. Ahh, for
> > the good old days when all I had to worry about was the geezer down the
> > road with his lead sled.
> > OTOH: Now I'm the geezer down the road and my grandson is me (?)...
> > And he wants to drive MY Healey when I get it running.
> >
> > Dave B^)
> > 56 BN2
> >
> > >>> "ray feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com> 11/30/00 11:26:30 PM >>>
> > Seems a little politically incorrect to target women as the only dangerous
> > drivers. I've seen many men doing the exact same thing.
> > RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
From "Chris Heide" <cheide at pitnet.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 22:52:35 -0600
Subject: A great Shockwave flash movie
Check out this new flash movie that I downloaded just now ... It's Great
Bye
From YourName <bjate at pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 01 Dec 2000 21:10:04 -0800
Subject: Re: Battery Tender
YourName wrote:
>
> Kirk,
> Thanks for the testemonial.....I don't believe in selling on the net
> line...but then I don't have to with you guys out there praising the SureChrge
> IV.....Thanks again and a Joyous holiday season to all
> Jim
>
> kirk kvam wrote:
> >
> > Roland,
> > I have six (6) of Jim's battery maintainers (one 6v and five 12v) all have
> > and are working for me, always a fresh battery.
> >
> > Kirk Kvam
> > P.S. Jim's a nice guy too, give him the business.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@cts.com>
> > To: "L W" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
> > Cc: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, December 01, 2000 10:21 AM
> > Subject: Re: Battery Tender
> >
> > >
> > > Here's an email on the one I use. Yes, I paid for it. No, I don't
> > > own stock in Heliokinetics. Jim Albeck is a member of the AHC San
> > > Diego :-)
> > > -Roland
> > > from an earlier posting:
> > > :: To: Awgertoo@aol.com
> > > :: Subject: Re: Brake / Clutch pedals & Battery Maintainer
> > > :: From: Agoura Jim <bjate@pacbell.net>
> > > :: Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 20:38:43 +0000
> > > :: CC: BrowningD@tce.com, healeys@autox.team.net
> > > ::
> > > :: Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> > > :: >
> > > :: > Fer sure on that. I was out driving yesterday and was warm as toast.
> > > :: > Speaking of cold weather, I recently purchased the Battery Maintainer
> > that is
> > > :: > advertised in one or both of the Club mag's and it worked so well
> > that I
> > > :: > permanantly wired it in via a trolling motor power inlet receptacle
> > mounted
> > > :: > inconspicuously on the forward face of the boot and I just plug in
> > the little
> > > :: > thingie between rides when the temperatures fall off! Yeah, I
> > know--it's not
> > > :: > original, blah blah blah! No affilliations except that I am married
> > to the
> > > :: > guy's stockbroker's future ex-wife.
> > > :: >
> > > :: > Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD.
> > > :: > 1955 BN1 (now starts in any weather)
> > > :: Micheal,
> > > :: Thanks for the testimonial....the battery minder is the SureCharge IV
> > > :: and Iam affilliated...e-mail <bjate@aol.com> for info.
> > > :: Thanks,
> > > :: Jim
> > > :: Agoura,Ca
> > > ::
> > >
> > > On Fri, 1 Dec 2000 12:15:47 -0500 (EST), L W
> > > <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net> wrote:
> > >
> > > ::
> > > :: Hi all:
> > > :: Anyone have a suggestion or favorite battery tender, battery-pal,
> > battery-buddy. The kind you leave on all the time which monitors your
> > battery and charges when neccessary. TIA
> > > :: lance
> > > :: 54 bn1
Kirk,
Thanks for the testemonial.....I don't believe in selling on the net
line...but then I don't have to with you guys out there praising the SureChrge
IV.....Thanks again and a Joyous holiday season to all
Jim
kirk kvam wrote:
>
> Roland,
> I have six (6) of Jim's battery maintainers (one 6v and five 12v) all have
> and are working for me, always a fresh battery.
>
> Kirk Kvam
> P.S. Jim's a nice guy too, give him the business.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@cts.com>
> To: "L W" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
> Cc: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, December 01, 2000 10:21 AM
> Subject: Re: Battery Tender
>
> >
> > Here's an email on the one I use. Yes, I paid for it. No, I don't
> > own stock in Heliokinetics. Jim Albeck is a member of the AHC San
> > Diego :-)
> > -Roland
> > from an earlier posting:
> > :: To: Awgertoo@aol.com
> > :: Subject: Re: Brake / Clutch pedals & Battery Maintainer
> > :: From: Agoura Jim <bjate@pacbell.net>
> > :: Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 20:38:43 +0000
> > :: CC: BrowningD@tce.com, healeys@autox.team.net
> > ::
> > :: Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> > :: >
> > :: > Fer sure on that. I was out driving yesterday and was warm as toast.
> > :: > Speaking of cold weather, I recently purchased the Battery Maintainer
> that is
> > :: > advertised in one or both of the Club mag's and it worked so well
> that I
> > :: > permanantly wired it in via a trolling motor power inlet receptacle
> mounted
> > :: > inconspicuously on the forward face of the boot and I just plug in
> the little
> > :: > thingie between rides when the temperatures fall off! Yeah, I
> know--it's not
> > :: > original, blah blah blah! No affilliations except that I am married
> to the
> > :: > guy's stockbroker's future ex-wife.
> > :: >
> > :: > Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD.
> > :: > 1955 BN1 (now starts in any weather)
> > :: Micheal,
> > :: Thanks for the testimonial....the battery minder is the SureCharge IV
> > :: and Iam affilliated...e-mail <bjate@aol.com> for info.
> > :: Thanks,
> > :: Jim
> > :: Agoura,Ca
> > ::
> >
> > On Fri, 1 Dec 2000 12:15:47 -0500 (EST), L W
> > <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net> wrote:
> >
> > ::
> > :: Hi all:
> > :: Anyone have a suggestion or favorite battery tender, battery-pal,
> battery-buddy. The kind you leave on all the time which monitors your
> battery and charges when neccessary. TIA
> > :: lance
> > :: 54 bn1
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Fri, 01 Dec 2000 23:20:51 -0800
Subject: Re: Battery Tender
"P.S. Jim's a nice guy too, give him the business."
...............................and he drives a healey.
Ron Rader
kirk kvam wrote:
> Roland,
> I have six (6) of Jim's battery maintainers (one 6v and five 12v) all have
> and are working for me, always a fresh battery.
>
> Kirk Kvam
> P.S. Jim's a nice guy too, give him the business.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@cts.com>
> To: "L W" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
> Cc: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, December 01, 2000 10:21 AM
> Subject: Re: Battery Tender
From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 01:33:39 -0600
Subject: Re: Not Healey related, cheap cars for teens
If as most of you Americans that feel that speed limits are for other
drivers than yourselves, there won't be any geezers or any drivers in your
rear view mirrors. They'll only be one more slower obstacle that you just
have to pass, usually unsafely. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "ray feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>
Cc: "Dave BOWERS" <BOWERSDA@uvsc.edu>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2000 10:24 PM
Subject: Re: Not Healey related, cheap cars for teens
>
> The way I heard it Mr. Dean had only a nodding acquaintance with speed
limits
> and should probably accept (posthumously) at least part of the blame. Part
of
> defensive driving is learning to stay away from the geezer up the street.
I
> only wish I could get away from the one in the mirror.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> ray feehan wrote:
>
> > Don't forget the geezer down the road was responsible for the accident
that
> > killed James Dean. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Dave BOWERS" <BOWERSDA@uvsc.edu>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, December 01, 2000 7:47 AM
> > Subject: Re: Not Healey related, cheap cars for teens
> >
> > >
> > > Amen, not to mention the contractors in 3/4 ton 4X4s w/full utility
> > beds -
> > > ouch, or the triple semi rigs, or the rice-rockets, or
> > delapidated-when-will-it-fall-aparts, or well - you get the idea. It
just
> > aint a safe place to be. Ahh, for
> > > the good old days when all I had to worry about was the geezer down
the
> > > road with his lead sled.
> > > OTOH: Now I'm the geezer down the road and my grandson is me (?)...
> > > And he wants to drive MY Healey when I get it running.
> > >
> > > Dave B^)
> > > 56 BN2
> > >
> > > >>> "ray feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com> 11/30/00 11:26:30 PM >>>
> > > Seems a little politically incorrect to target women as the only
dangerous
> > > drivers. I've seen many men doing the exact same thing.
> > > RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 08:14:31 EST
Subject: Speedo recalibration
Listers,
It's time to recalibrate the original speedo on my BJ7 with a Smitty's 5sp.
conversion. Smitty's instructions discuss a ratio box to do this, but I know
that speedo repair shops like Nisonger and MoMa can recalibrate the speedo
itself. Is either option acceptable or is there any reason to prefer one over
the other?
Happy Healeying,
Rick
From jbpate at attglobal.net
Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2000 08:24:04 -0500
Subject: Hard to find screws and fasteners
Does anyone have a source for the small decorative chrome (or stainless)
screws and bolts that are used in Healeys? I am having trouble finding
some of them locally. I really need the screws that hold the side window
vent hinge pin. Thanks, Barry Pate 1967 BJ8
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 08:31:26 -0500
Subject: 100 Battery
Hi all:
Anyone have a suggestion for a battery (1 12v) that will fit the bn1 battery
box or close to it. TIA
lance
54 bn1
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 08:37:50 EST
Subject: Hot Wheels Austin-Healey
I have been looking for the Healey 100 model for a while and just found it
yesterday at a K-Mart. The clerk said they just came in. Since they are
only $.59, I bought three.
Rudy in NC
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 08:51:28 EST
Subject: Re: Hot Wheels Austin-Healey
A collector buddy of mine just found one in California. He sent me a good
photo of it. I can e-mail the photo to anyone that has interest.
Steve
BN 0.5 (half way there)
<< I have been looking for the Healey 100 model for a while and just found it
yesterday at a K-Mart. The clerk said they just came in. Since they are
only $.59, I bought three.
Rudy in NC >>
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 08:52:31 -0500
Subject: Battery again
Sorry would like modify my last post about the one 12v bat to include
suggestions for 2, 6 volt bats that will fit the bn1 battery box or close
to it. (height, width etc..) TIA
lance
54 bn1
From "Wm. \"Kit\" Henry II" <khenry at hmcltd.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 10:10:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Hot Wheels Austin-Healey
Please send the photo as I have been scouting
Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <CAWS52803@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2000 8:51 AM
Subject: Re: Hot Wheels Austin-Healey
>
> A collector buddy of mine just found one in California. He sent me a good
> photo of it. I can e-mail the photo to anyone that has interest.
>
> Steve
> BN 0.5 (half way there)
>
> << I have been looking for the Healey 100 model for a while and just found
it
> yesterday at a K-Mart. The clerk said they just came in. Since they are
> only $.59, I bought three.
> Rudy in NC >>
From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2000 11:02:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Not Healey related, teenage driver
Gary [and anyone else who would like to express an opinion:) ],
Any thoughts on which offer the most bang for the buck?
We're thinking about sending our son to a a one/two day course. More
interested in a course that uses passenger cars rather than the single seaters.
The courses BMW offer at their factory in South Carolina are appealing as Tim
is just an hour away at Clemson. I know that Russell and Barber schools travel
to different tracks around the country so I'll have to see what's available
around Indy.
Bob Haskell
'60 AH BT-7 MkI
'64 Mini Cooper S RHD
'80 MGB LE
bhaskell@iquest.net
SOL Healey (URL http://www.team.net/www/healey) web apprentice
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 11/30/00 5:50:26 AM, ryan@jimryan.com writes:
>
> << Whatever you do Jim, make sure there are shoulder/lap belts installed and
> that he uses them. If he hasn't attended defensive driving class, send
> him---for any young person. >>
>
> I try not to do "Me, too" messages, but in this case I do want to underline
> this point. I've taken the defensive driving courses offered at Russell,
> Skip Barber, and Bondurant as a press freebie (paid for by the car companies,
> who think these are a good investment for the press guys who drive their new
> cars) and can't say enough good about them. The student typically gets an
> hour each in panic braking, lane-change avoidance maneuvers, skid pad, and
> then to sweeten the serious side, an hour in one of the little Formula cars
> on the slalom course for vehicle handling dynamics.
>
> On the surface these might seem expensive -- typically several hundred
> dollars -- but how much have you got invested in the kid already? And every
> one of the course instructors is skilled and experienced in training teens.
> If they had their way, they'd do it free for every driving age student.
> Contrary to some expectations, the kids leave as more sensible drivers,
> actually aware of how little they can do when a car goes out of control,
> rather than thinking they are Mario Andretti in search of a track.
>
> I think it is the most practical christmas gift you can give a teen. Give
> him or her a pair of driving gloves with the gift certificate and you'll be a
> hero . . . for at least two or three days.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> editor, British Car Magazine
> www.britishcar.com
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 10:58:24 EST
Subject: Re: Speedo recalibration
Rick: Some times they can it depends on what gears they will need to set
theodometer correctrly. The speed is not the problem. You will first need to
get a count of the revs on the speedo cable over one mile, there is a number
on the face of the original speedo like 1025,1000,950 probably one of these.
That is the amount of revs the cable will make per mile for that speedo.
If you mark out 52.8 feet on the street and then drive it and count the cable
revs you can then come up with the revs per mile. Then give the rebuilder
that number and they can gear it correctly so the odometer will be correct.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 10:59:10 EST
Subject: Re: Hard to find screws and fasteners
we have some that are very close.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 17:59:25 +0100
Subject: SV: Not Healey related, cheap cars for teens
> When are you going to let him drive your Healey? RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
Rayfix,
he drove my Healey TRAINING for his license. With the big L on you know.....In
retrospect.. it might not have been too safe for either of us... lol.
The 500SE is not allowed for this, as it has the "handbrake" on a foot-pedal
not reachable from the passenger seat, and it has the automatic shift. We where
opting for the stick-shift.
E. Larssen 60BT7 (still in one piece)
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 11:54:05 EST
Subject: Re: A great Shockwave flash movie
In a message dated 12/01/2000 8:43:32 PM Central Standard Time,
timoran@ticnet.com writes:
> MUST LIVE IN FLORIDA ! !
> -------------------------------
>
<VBG>, Tim, <VB>!!
Ed
From "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 09:18:02 -0800
Subject: Re: AH3000 III transmission and Smitty Toyota 5 speed
To add a few thoughts to this popular "Smitty Toyo Conversion" thread:
In my mind, the real issue is if you want the original transmission in your
car. Should you decide this, then the price of the rebuild may not be the
issue. My rebuild cost close to twice what Dean says the Smitty conversion
cost him. And the gearbox was in the shop for many months. Having
foresight, I bought a used gearbox from Jack Walker, who now drives a Smitty
in his BT7. Then after rebuild, I learned a considerable set of lessons on
adjusting the overdrive solenoid.
Should you decide that you want an easy transmission to drive, go with the
Smitty. Everybody says they are a dream come true.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 18:20:17 +0100
Subject: Re: Grose Jets
What about ordering SU stuff from Burlen Fuel Systems Ltd.
(http://www.burlen.co.uk) ?
In my experience they have almost all parts down to the smallest nuts
+ bolts.
Usual disclaimer.
Best regards
Martin
Germany
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 12:34:43 EST
Subject: Re: Not Healey related, teenage driver
In a message dated 12/02/2000 10:57:53 AM Eastern Standard Time,
bhaskell@iquest.net writes:
<< The courses BMW offer at their factory in South Carolina are appealing as
Tim is just an hour away at Clemson >>
Don't forget that Clemson is about an hour and a half from Road Atlanta.
(Braselton GA). Panoz offers a variety of schools there at the track in
addition to the BMW and Porsche clubs. Check out www.roadatlanta.com and
that should at least give you an idea of what they offer. The neat part is
the cars you drive are Panoz build cars. They finally got rid of all those
300Z's and started building purpose built cars for the track school.
Something to consider.
Tim
From Wandldietz at gateway.net
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 07:57:06 EST
Subject: People/Places/Parts
Greetings ,
I am a first time caller in need of some assistance. As a new
subscriber observing some of the info coming across, it's evident a lot of
folks are certainly in the know ,and I,m getting some very good and enjoyable
stuff.
Trying to find a fix or replacement for clutch master cylinder rod? The
little puppy finally wore out(after 33 yrs. and 160,000 or so miles) on my
'67 BJ8. The cylinder is still good and if I can repair or replace the rod
wthout replacing the whole works, this is what I would prefer. It seems that
only master cylinder and rod are sold as one.
Going through some old memorabilia I found some letters from a Healey
guy I was in touch with at the time( late '70's). Often wondered what became
of Dave Ramstad? We were both original owners of Golden Beige '67 BJ8s' . He
was doing research and also contributed regularly to the Austin Healey
Mag.(west coast) Last residence was Everett,WA.? What became of Dave?
Thanks for any input!
Warren Dietz/ 67 BJ8
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 14:00:55 EST
Subject: Re: RE: A great Shockwave flash movie
In a message dated 12/1/00 6:24:03 PM, brad@bradw.com writes:
<< Ed, sit down and cool your jets.
The email that came from Chris's account was sent automatically by a
computer "worm". >>
Interestingly, my AOL software notified me when I opened the message that the
exec had been detached from the message. Pretty smart. Of course, since I'm
a MAC user exclusively, I don't have to worry about downloadable execs anyhow.
Cheers
gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 14:05:49 EST
Subject: Re: RE: minor restoration questions
In a message dated 12/1/00 8:01:41 PM, schauss@worldnet.att.net writes:
<< Front suspension: Foam bushing washers? Are these the one the ones
where the front "A" arms are attached to the frame? If so, replacement
is pretty straight forward. Do one side at a time so that you have
a fully assembled setup to compare to when you reassemble. Your shop manual
should have a good description of how to do this job. >>
These foam bushings are pictured in our restoration book. When I rebuilt my
suspension, i was unable to find new ones (a number of years ago) so I reused
the old ones. When the new ones became available, I took the short-cut and
made a slit in each of the new ones with a razor blade, then slid them on in
place of the old ones that I had cut off. A drop of super glue in the slit,
and they were on. I'm pretty sure, since they're just plastic themselves,
that gluing them together makes a permanent joint. Eight years later they're
still on there.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 14:07:12 EST
Subject: Re: Battery Tender
In a message dated 12/1/00 11:36:42 PM, rader@interworld.net writes:
<<
"P.S. Jim's a nice guy too, give him the business."
...............................and he drives a healey.
Ron Rader >>
Actually, he's been observed to be driving a 100 with a V8 in it. (I was
shocked...shocked!)
Cheers
Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 14:12:37 EST
Subject: Re: Battery again
In a message dated 12/2/00 5:55:01 AM, brshwrks@bellatlantic.net writes:
<< Sorry would like modify my last post about the one 12v bat to include
suggestions for 2, 6 volt bats that will fit the bn1 battery box or close
to it. (height, width etc..) TIA
lance
54 bn1 >>
If you're fitting two six-volts, you might talk to your Interstate Battery
salesman. I was able to order two six volts that were nearly identical to the
original dimensions, and even had tops that more or less resembled the old
ones.
The other option is to order them from Antique Batteries, which makes great
reproductions of the old Lucas batteries. They've recently improved them by
replacing the tar tops with plastic tops that look like tar. (The old tar
top reproductions had a bad habit of separating from the plastic battery
sides.) Only drawback is that you have to go to a local battery shop, buy
containers of battery acid, and fill and charge the batteries yourself.
Cheers
Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 14:16:38 EST
Subject: Re: Not Healey related, teenage driver
In a message dated 12/2/00 7:56:19 AM, bhaskell@iquest.net writes:
<< Gary [and anyone else who would like to express an opinion:) ],
Any thoughts on which offer the most bang for the buck?
We're thinking about sending our son to a a one/two day course. More
interested in a course that uses passenger cars rather than the single
seaters. >>
All of the courses with which I'm familiar offer the panic braking, obstacle
evasion (rapid lane change maneuvers), and skid practice in sedans. I think
all the courses are pretty similar, since there is pretty good agreement on
the skills a regular street driver needs to master, and how to teach those
skills.) Barber (and Russell, I believe) offer an hour in the single seaters
on the autocross course for those who want that; others do the course in
sedans. Sort of frosting on the cake for those who want a little experience
in a "real race car."
Cheers
Gary Anderson
editor, British Car Magazine
www. britishcar.com
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2000 17:15:28 -0500
Subject: 62 tricarb Healey for sale
Folks,
Just being a good samaraton and forwarding this to thelist. I've never
seen the car so you are on your own, but for 15K this tricarb might be
worth the look see...
Mike B
59 BT7
>Return-Path: <Alan@roverworks.com>
>X-Sender: alan/mail.animaniac.com@127.0.0.1 (Unverified)
>Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2000 09:04:57 -0800
>To: M Brouillette <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
>From: Alan@roverworks.com (Alan Simpson)
>Subject: The Healey for sale
>
>Hello Mr. Brouillette.
>
>This is the Healey I have for sale. Could you please post it to the Healey
>list for me.
>
>I can tell you the following with confidence:
>The car is a very original 1962, 3000 Tri carb 2+2, red over black, red
>interior
>It is not a rusty car, it is a very solid car and does not require
>"restoration".
>there is some of the usual Healey rust starting on the rear wing dog leg
>and the rear of the rear wing (you have to look for it).
>The second gear syncro is slow.
>During the hot part of the summer it looses a bit of coolant. I see a head
>gasket in the future, maybe a crack in the head, it has been this way for
>all the Summers I have driven it. It has not shown any oil in the coolant
>or coolant in the cylinders.
>There is a minor "Healey judder" at 60 MPH, you can drive through it. I
>suspect one of the chrome wire wheel;or the trans tunnel is loose.
>The paint is tired but there is no obvious bubbling between the wings and
>body. It turns heads.
>Interior is very tired but cleans up OK.
>I always thought I would restore it but, it has to good a body and
>mechanicals to justify it. Recently, I have become obsessed with XK 120's.
>That is the only reason I am considering parting with it.
>This Spring I replaced the rear springs, the rear pins slid out no problem,
>the car substructure is excellent for it's age.
>Gauges work, overdrive works, lights work, I have the heater but it is not
>installed.
>stainless steel exhaust.
>Steering and brakes are good.
>We could go out to the garage start it up and go for a ride if it was not
>for the rain.
>I have been watching the prices of the unrestored, honest daily driver
>Healeys, I think best offer over $15,000 US is a very fair price.
>By the way, I am a licensed mechanic and own a small restoration shop (20
>years) dedicated to British vehicles. I got the Healey in a trade on a very
>nice MK11 Jaguar I owned. I have done very little to this car in the 7 or 8
>years I have owned it other than enjoy it.
>
>
>I will try to be accommodating to requests for information and pictures.
>Please ask yourselves if you are seriously interested before you ask for my
>time.
>
>
>Alan Simpson
>alan@roverworks.com
>250-494-0646
>Summerland B.C.
>Canada
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2000 14:20:17 -0800
Subject: Re: RE: A great Shockwave flash movie
Detaching it doesn't mean it deleted the virus Gary, it just saved the
executable. Any good email program should do that. Take a look, I'll bet
it's on your hard drive.
As for the Mac, I don't worry either, I use windows, but not MS Outlook,
which is the root cause of 80% of the macro/VBS type viruses. Get Eudora
and stop worrying!
---------------------------
At 11:00 AM 12/2/2000, you wrote:
>In a message dated 12/1/00 6:24:03 PM, brad@bradw.com writes:
>
><< Ed, sit down and cool your jets.
>
>The email that came from Chris's account was sent automatically by a
>computer "worm". >>
>
>Interestingly, my AOL software notified me when I opened the message that the
>exec had been detached from the message. Pretty smart. Of course, since I'm
>a MAC user exclusively, I don't have to worry about downloadable execs anyhow.
>
>Cheers
>gary
From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 15:23:53 -0800
Subject: hardtop questions
Just getting back to finishing my hardtop and need some information.
1. What order do you recomend putting the headliner pieces back in. Before
or after the aluminum edges are on?
2. What order for the aluminum edges and when to put the window in?
3. My hardtop is missing the ears that go in the back corners. Can anyone
give me a size or picture? Is this 1/4 inch masonite or equalvalent?
4. What kind of sealant do you use between the aluminum trim and the top.
Do you pick the alum color or the top color or clear?
Appreciate your help
Jerry
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 23:22:03 -0000
Subject: 3-way adaptor
I was looking something up in my BMC Service Parts List
just now when I saw something that puzzled me...
Iamm99.999% sure we are talking Tricarb here.
For those of you with the book, go to the illustration
"To face page D.9". Items 1,2,3,4,5&6 are what I am
after. Taken as a whole, there are three pipes referred
to as "Pipe-3-way adaptor to manifold-front"
" ditto -centre"
" ditto -rear "
These push fit onto the actual "adaptor-3-way (rear
carburettor)". This latter has a nut and olive setup so
it goes on somewhere around and about the rear SU.
What does this lot do??
Where do these pipes go??
The book says they started at (E) 29D-H2864 and
ceased at (E) 29D-H6394.
I have 29E/RU/H4590 in HBT7 18111. Plainly I don't have these
things nor do I want them or seem to need them. But I am puzzled.
Any ideas?
Simon Lachlan.
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 23:22:05 -0000
Subject: Overflow pipes.
I don't have overflow pipes on my BT7, nor do I see them in the
Parts book, nor can I see them in any illustration except in
Big Healeys by Robson.
Do you all have them?? I can surely see the sense in having them
and was ticked off for their absence by a local expert.
Maybe they are only ever found on HD carbs?? I've not graduated
from HS yet.
Simon Lachlan
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 18:41:41 EST
Subject: Re: Grose Jets
In a message dated 12/02/2000 10:22:19 AM Mountain Standard Time,
hm.heim@t-online.de writes:
<<
What about ordering SU stuff from Burlen Fuel Systems Ltd.
(http://www.burlen.co.uk) ?
In my experience they have almost all parts down to the smallest nuts
+ bolts. >>
Grose jets are available form most ofa the Healey supply houses int he US.
They are NOT made by SU and thus would not be available form Burlen. They
are made in Massachusetts.
Roger
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 18:57:05 EST
Subject: Re: hardtop questions
In a message dated 12/02/2000 4:22:59 PM Mountain Standard Time,
costan0@attglobal.net writes:
<<
1. What order do you recomend putting the headliner pieces back in. Before
or after the aluminum edges are on?
AFTER
2. What order for the aluminum edges and when to put the window in?
FRONT AND TWO SIDES. THE REAR RAIL IS LAST.
THE TOP SHOULD BE FITTED TO THE CAR AND HELD IN PLACE USING ALL HOOK
HARDWARD, FRONT AND REAR, BEFORE FITTING THE WINDOW. IT TOOK ME 5 HOURS TO
FIT A REAR WINDOW PROPERLY, SINCE IT NEEDS TRIMMING AND YOU DON'T WANT TO CUT
TOO MUCH. I'VE DONE THREE OR FOUR WINDOWS AND DON'T FEEL THAT I'M ALL THAT
INEFFICIENT. IT JUST TAKES PATIENCE. I MUST HAVE HAD THE WINDOW IN AND OUT
OF THE OPENING A GOOD 8-10 TIMES, AND USED AN ORIGINAL WINDOW FOR MAKING MY
FIRST SIZING CUTS (A BIT OVERSIZE!!!).
3. My hardtop is missing the ears that go in the back corners. Can anyone
give me a size or picture? Is this 1/4 inch masonite or equalvalent?
IF YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT THE INSIDE LINER PIECES THEY ARE MADE FORMA HEAVY
CARDBOARD AND HAVE STEEL "U" CHANNELS SLIPPED OVER THEIR TOP EDGES. YOU NEED
TO LOOK AT ORIGINALS TO SEE WHAT TO MAKE.
4. What kind of sealant do you use between the aluminum trim and the top.
Do you pick the alum color or the top color or clear?
I USED CLAY. GET IT FROM AN RV SUPPLY PLACE. IT IS USED TO SEAL COVERS TO
THE REAR OF PICK-UP TRUACK BEDS. IT WILL OOZE OUT AND SEAL THE JOINTS
FAIARLY WELL. THEN JUST WIPE/TRIM OFF EXCESS.
Appreciate your help
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2000 16:24:01 -0800
Subject: Re: AH3000 III transmission and Smitty Toyota 5
Cory LeBlanc wrote:
> To add a few thoughts to this popular "Smitty Toyo Conversion" thread:
>
> In my mind, the real issue is if you want the original transmission in your
> car. Should you decide this, then the price of the rebuild may not be the
> issue. My rebuild cost close to twice what Dean says the Smitty conversion
> cost him. And the gearbox was in the shop for many months. Having
> foresight, I bought a used gearbox from Jack Walker, who now drives a Smitty
> in his BT7. Then after rebuild, I learned a considerable set of lessons on
> adjusting the overdrive solenoid.
>
> Should you decide that you want an easy transmission to drive, go with the
> Smitty. Everybody says they are a dream come true.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Jim LeBlanc
> 1956 100-M
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2000 16:26:48 -0800
Subject: Re: Battery Tender
Gary:
That is actually true, but even with that fact known, I still think he's a
nice guy!
On the other hand he is a lousy miniature golfer.
Ron
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 12/1/00 11:36:42 PM, rader@interworld.net writes:
>
> <<
> "P.S. Jim's a nice guy too, give him the business."
> ...............................and he drives a healey.
> Ron Rader >>
>
> Actually, he's been observed to be driving a 100 with a V8 in it. (I was
> shocked...shocked!)
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 20:47:55 EST
Subject: Pinewood Derby Austin Healey Model
Does anyone out there have an Austin Healey replica pinewood derby car that
they would be interested in selling? I'd like to get involved in the
pinewood derby racing at the next west coast Healey meet. Ya, I know I
should build one.
Please contact me off line.
Thanks.
John
100-Six Erika the red
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 22:09:40 EST
Subject: Re: Pinewood Derby Austin Healey Model
I've always wondered what would happen if I showed up at Conclave with my
collection of mid sixties vintage cub scout Pinewood Derby Cars. Is there a
vintage racing class? I kicked butt as a nine year old. Of course I never got
to touch the cars much, my father built them.
Thanks,
James Werner
Louisville, KY
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 23:35:32 -0500
Subject: Re: 3-way adaptor
I don't have a manual handy but the give away is when you quoted the
application to the 29D series engines. This is the setup and related parts
for the thermal starting carburettor, which lasted only for a relatively
short time. Your engine (tricarb) is the 29E series. If you follow the
manual's application listings carefully, you'll see what does, and what does
not apply to your car.
Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message -----
From: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2000 6:22 PM
Subject: 3-way adaptor
>
> I was looking something up in my BMC Service Parts List
> just now when I saw something that puzzled me...
> Iamm99.999% sure we are talking Tricarb here.
> For those of you with the book, go to the illustration
> "To face page D.9". Items 1,2,3,4,5&6 are what I am
> after. Taken as a whole, there are three pipes referred
> to as "Pipe-3-way adaptor to manifold-front"
> " ditto -centre"
> " ditto -rear "
> These push fit onto the actual "adaptor-3-way (rear
> carburettor)". This latter has a nut and olive setup so
> it goes on somewhere around and about the rear SU.
>
> What does this lot do??
> Where do these pipes go??
>
> The book says they started at (E) 29D-H2864 and
> ceased at (E) 29D-H6394.
>
> I have 29E/RU/H4590 in HBT7 18111. Plainly I don't have these
> things nor do I want them or seem to need them. But I am puzzled.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Simon Lachlan.
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 09:23:09 EST
Subject: Re: Pinewood Derby Austin Healey Model
Hi Jim,
I tried this at the Conclave in St. Louis a few years ago. I had built two
cars for my daughter and son back about 1975 - 1976 for Indian Guides program
at the Y. Both were big time winners. I took the better of the two and got
wiped out in the first round.
You just can't go back anymore!
Rudy Streng
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 17:20:05 -0000
Subject: RE: hardtop questions
I read this with great interest as usual.
My hardtop is pretty fair, maybe just tatty enough to
irrate when one is feeling perfectionist but not tatty
enough to tear it apart. Yet!
BUT, there is one thing about it that infuriates me..
I have a BT7 and ,yes, after that interesting thread some months
back, I have checked from it's number that it is correct for my car.
Simply put, when the rear seats' back rest is in place the hardtop sits
on said seat back rest and does not locate at all accurately, if
at all, when one is putting on the hardtop..... So, I
can tip the back rest forward before putting on the hardtop and shove
it backwards once the top is in place. (I'm not allowed to say
"in situ" here). But that's a pretty poor answer-it tends to fall
forward.
The carpet in my car goes right up into the hood stowage area behind
the seat back-as I believe it should. There is proper(?) underfelt under
all the carpets, which helps with the look, feel and insulation. But removal
of both carpet and underfelt would not solve problem.
What is the communal wisdom please?
Simon Lachlan.
>
>
>
> In a message dated 12/02/2000 4:22:59 PM Mountain Standard Time,
> costan0@attglobal.net writes:
>
> <<
> 1. What order do you recomend putting the headliner pieces back
> in. Before
> or after the aluminum edges are on?
> AFTER
>
> 2. What order for the aluminum edges and when to put the window in?
> FRONT AND TWO SIDES. THE REAR RAIL IS LAST.
>
> THE TOP SHOULD BE FITTED TO THE CAR AND HELD IN PLACE USING ALL HOOK
> HARDWARD, FRONT AND REAR, BEFORE FITTING THE WINDOW. IT TOOK ME
> 5 HOURS TO
> FIT A REAR WINDOW PROPERLY, SINCE IT NEEDS TRIMMING AND YOU DON'T
> WANT TO CUT
> TOO MUCH. I'VE DONE THREE OR FOUR WINDOWS AND DON'T FEEL THAT
> I'M ALL THAT
> INEFFICIENT. IT JUST TAKES PATIENCE. I MUST HAVE HAD THE WINDOW
> IN AND OUT
> OF THE OPENING A GOOD 8-10 TIMES, AND USED AN ORIGINAL WINDOW
> FOR MAKING MY
> FIRST SIZING CUTS (A BIT OVERSIZE!!!).
>
> 3. My hardtop is missing the ears that go in the back corners.
> Can anyone
> give me a size or picture? Is this 1/4 inch masonite or equalvalent?
> IF YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT THE INSIDE LINER PIECES THEY ARE MADE
> FORMA HEAVY
> CARDBOARD AND HAVE STEEL "U" CHANNELS SLIPPED OVER THEIR TOP
> EDGES. YOU NEED
> TO LOOK AT ORIGINALS TO SEE WHAT TO MAKE.
>
> 4. What kind of sealant do you use between the aluminum trim
> and the top.
> Do you pick the alum color or the top color or clear?
> I USED CLAY. GET IT FROM AN RV SUPPLY PLACE. IT IS USED TO SEAL
> COVERS TO
> THE REAR OF PICK-UP TRUACK BEDS. IT WILL OOZE OUT AND SEAL THE JOINTS
> FAIARLY WELL. THEN JUST WIPE/TRIM OFF EXCESS.
>
> Appreciate your help
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 12:32:51 EST
Subject: Re: Overflow pipes.
Your BT7 with the HS6 carbs must be a tri carb model and they had a overflow
pipe on each carb . It is shown in the parts book but is not easy to find.
The pipe is a 90 degree pipe that is about 2" long with a spring in side to
keep its shape , there is a straight pipe attached to it that goes down thru
the heat shield to a bracket on the side of the block.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 12:36:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Battery again
Gary:
You are right about the real tar tops. I had to send mine back for
re-tarring after the first year (and about 50 miles). On
re-installation I didn't tighten beyond snug and they've been ok now
for two and a half years and a couple thousand miles. Suspect that
the plastic cases are not quite strong enough for genuine tar top
construction.
Ed A
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, December 02, 2000 2:15 PM
Subject: Re: Battery again
>
>In a message dated 12/2/00 5:55:01 AM, brshwrks@bellatlantic.net
writes:
>
><< Sorry would like modify my last post about the one 12v bat to
include
>suggestions for 2, 6 volt bats that will fit the bn1 battery box or
close
>to it. (height, width etc..) TIA
>lance
>54 bn1 >>
>
>If you're fitting two six-volts, you might talk to your Interstate
Battery
>salesman. I was able to order two six volts that were nearly
identical to the
>original dimensions, and even had tops that more or less resembled
the old
>ones.
>
>The other option is to order them from Antique Batteries, which makes
great
>reproductions of the old Lucas batteries. They've recently improved
them by
>replacing the tar tops with plastic tops that look like tar. (The
old tar
>top reproductions had a bad habit of separating from the plastic
battery
>sides.) Only drawback is that you have to go to a local battery
shop, buy
>containers of battery acid, and fill and charge the batteries
yourself.
>
>Cheers
>Gary
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 12:41:40 EST
Subject: Re: hardtop questions
In a message dated 12/03/2000 11:27:04 AM Central Standard Time,
simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk writes:
> place the hardtop sits
>
Simon:
I have actual experience with that.
A good friend has same car and top. Fits like a glove. Perfect every time.
That said, we went to put it on a friend of his' car and it was off by about
1/2" (short). Got to comparing cars and windscreens. 2nd car's screen was
"forward" from what my friend's car. Adjust same. Dropped right on.
Whilst this was going on, another gent with a "just that day picked up"
groundup restoration showed up. As the 2nd car was sitting there with Black
HT on an Old English White scheme, #3 gent asks if he could see it on his car
(OEW with Black coves). Sure, we all said. Oooops, 4.5" short. Couldn't
"quite" adjust the windscreen for that<F>!!
Cheers..............
Ed
From "Jim Ryan" <ryan at jimryan.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 12:43:42 -0500
Subject: RE: Not Healey related, but short plea...
Gary,
Thank you. I'll contact the local tracks and see what I come up with. If I
find anything I'll pass it along
Thanks again,
Jim
64 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2000 2:24 PM
To: ryan@jimryan.com
Subject: Re: Not Healey related, but short plea...
I haven't been able to find a permanent school in New Hampshire, but I did
find that Skip Barber uses the New Hampshire road track for some of their
events, so it's possible that they might offer their school there once in
awhile. You might check with their web site www.skipbarber.com and email
them to ask. If you can't get any info there, then someone else on our list
might know of a track in the northeast. The alternative would be for you
and
your son to come to Phoenix, Monterey, or Sonoma and take the courses
offered
at those places by Bondurant, Barber, or Russell.
Cheers
gary
From "Jim Ryan" <ryan at jimryan.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 12:31:58 -0500
Subject: FW: Northeast BJ7 owners...HELP
Did the list get this?
-----Original Message-----
From: oskar schlimmson [mailto:oskar_schlimmson@email.msn.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2000 8:48 PM
To: ryan@jimryan.com; bweiner@pumatech.com
Cc: randev@tiac.com
Subject: Northeast BJ7 owners...HELP
Hi, I am looking for some help rebuilding my BJ7 engine. I have tried
contacting
the "list" but I have not had any success. I would appreciate it if
either
of you have any pointers or contacts that might be helpful. I am sure
there
must be some reputable rebuilders in the northeast.........
thanks
fred drenckhahn
randev@tiac.net
617 367869
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 10:05:04 -0800
Subject: Re: Overflow pipes.
Bill Bolton has them.
Kirk Kvam
----- Original Message -----
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2000 9:32 AM
Subject: Re: Overflow pipes.
>
> Your BT7 with the HS6 carbs must be a tri carb model and they had a
overflow
> pipe on each carb . It is shown in the parts book but is not easy to find.
> The pipe is a 90 degree pipe that is about 2" long with a spring in side
to
> keep its shape , there is a straight pipe attached to it that goes down
thru
> the heat shield to a bracket on the side of the block.
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif. 95205
> 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at <A
HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
> Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 10:12:41 -0800
Subject: Re: Overflow pipes.
(Addendum)
Bill's a nice guy too, and has had, and drives all sorts of Healey's.
Kirk kvam
----- Original Message -----
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2000 9:32 AM
Subject: Re: Overflow pipes.
>
> Your BT7 with the HS6 carbs must be a tri carb model and they had a
overflow
> pipe on each carb . It is shown in the parts book but is not easy to find.
> The pipe is a 90 degree pipe that is about 2" long with a spring in side
to
> keep its shape , there is a straight pipe attached to it that goes down
thru
> the heat shield to a bracket on the side of the block.
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif. 95205
> 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at <A
HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
> Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 13:34:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Hard to find screws and fasteners
Barry, I'm not familiar with your needs, but
Try "Tioga Stainless, Box 565, Burlington, VT 05402, (t)
802-655-9671". Nice assortment of small stainless steel fasteners or
"Woolies, Market Deeping, Peterborough, England, PE6 8LD, (t)
011-44-01778-347347" who have lots of restoration misc.
Usual disclaimer
-----Original Message-----
From: jbpate@attglobal.net <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, December 02, 2000 8:27 AM
Subject: Hard to find screws and fasteners
>
>Does anyone have a source for the small decorative chrome (or
stainless)
>screws and bolts that are used in Healeys? I am having trouble
finding
>some of them locally. I really need the screws that hold the side
window
>vent hinge pin. Thanks, Barry Pate 1967 BJ8
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 14:22:23 -0500
Subject: minor restoration questions revisited
Two questions re A-H 100:
1.) Is a Tenax fastener correct for the center tonneau fastener at
the shroud?
2.) I keep thinking that I remember (from my much younger days- 1959)
foam washers(?) on each of the brake and clutch pedal arms just to the
fore side of the firewall. Can anyone confirm or discredit this as
correct? If correct, what color and probable thickness?
TIA
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, December 02, 2000 2:10 PM
Subject: Re: RE: minor restoration questions
>
>In a message dated 12/1/00 8:01:41 PM, schauss@worldnet.att.net
writes:
>
><< Front suspension: Foam bushing washers? Are these the one the
ones
>where the front "A" arms are attached to the frame? If so,
replacement
>is pretty straight forward. Do one side at a time so that you have
>a fully assembled setup to compare to when you reassemble. Your shop
manual
>should have a good description of how to do this job. >>
>
>These foam bushings are pictured in our restoration book. When I
rebuilt my
>suspension, i was unable to find new ones (a number of years ago) so
I reused
>the old ones. When the new ones became available, I took the
short-cut and
>made a slit in each of the new ones with a razor blade, then slid
them on in
>place of the old ones that I had cut off. A drop of super glue in the
slit,
>and they were on. I'm pretty sure, since they're just plastic
themselves,
>that gluing them together makes a permanent joint. Eight years later
they're
>still on there.
>
>Cheers
>Gary Anderson
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2000 12:27:55 -0800
Subject: Wax on, Wax off
Hi,
After 8 months my car is back on the road. More on that later.
I have a two yearish old paint job. It is PPG Black with no clear coat. The guy
who painted it gave me a bottle of "magic wax", this stuff was a soft, no
abrasive liquid. Easy to put on and take off.
Unfortunitly the magic wax is all used up. It was called Cherry Wet or Cherry
Red or something like that, and is apparently no longer available.
So, the question is: What is the best wax to use now?
Brian Mix
'55 AH-100 LeMans
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
Vice-President Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 23:29:12 -0500
Subject: Re:Original Austin-Healey
Hi,
I have a copy of Anders Clausager's "The Original Austin-Healey". It is
the 1996 printing which I believe was the last. Wanted to offer to the
list before it went on eBay. If interested please contact me off the
list. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 23:32:19 -0500
Subject: Re:Lucas SLR 576
Sorry,
Forgot to mention that I also have a good used Lucas SLR 576 lamp. Has
"Lucas SLR 576" stamped on the case, so this is one of the earlier ones.
If interested please contact me off the list. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 16:45:32 EST
Subject: Re: Wax on, Wax off
In a message dated 12/03/2000 3:29:33 PM Eastern Standard Time,
brianmix@home.com writes:
<< So, the question is: What is the best wax to use now? >>
I guess that all depends on what kind of shape the paint is in. I like to
use Turtle Wax Emerald series. This is a liquid wax that really is easy to
use and leaves a nice shine. Makes water bead like nothing else I have used.
Its non abrasive. Really good stuff for the after the usual car wash waxing.
Common lore tells us that once a year you should use a paste wax on your car.
This is a tougher wax job, and therefore does not wear off as quickly.
Simonize or like should do, but that involves elbow grease.
I found that paste works if you get a car with deteriorated paint with
surface oxidation. The liquid stuff just does not get rid of the old paint,
and consequently you can't get the shine like a paste wax will get.
Sounds like you probably have a good paint job, so stick with the liquid
waxes. If the car stays in the garage, then these should be all you need.
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From "Joseph Giuliano" <joe.giuliano at giuliano.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 17:35:37 -0500
Subject: RE: Wax on, Wax off
Tim,
I had another car of mine come back from the shop. They used a marine
carnauba wax on the car and it shines like all get out.
It has been 7 months since the car has been back from the shop and the wax
has held up great under the south Florida heat.
Joe
67 BJ8 for sale
http://joe.giuliano.home.mindspring.com/default.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Healybj8@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2000 4:46 PM
To: brianmix@home.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Wax on, Wax off
In a message dated 12/03/2000 3:29:33 PM Eastern Standard Time,
brianmix@home.com writes:
<< So, the question is: What is the best wax to use now? >>
I guess that all depends on what kind of shape the paint is in. I like to
use Turtle Wax Emerald series. This is a liquid wax that really is easy to
use and leaves a nice shine. Makes water bead like nothing else I have
used.
Its non abrasive. Really good stuff for the after the usual car wash
waxing.
Common lore tells us that once a year you should use a paste wax on your
car.
This is a tougher wax job, and therefore does not wear off as quickly.
Simonize or like should do, but that involves elbow grease.
I found that paste works if you get a car with deteriorated paint with
surface oxidation. The liquid stuff just does not get rid of the old paint,
and consequently you can't get the shine like a paste wax will get.
Sounds like you probably have a good paint job, so stick with the liquid
waxes. If the car stays in the garage, then these should be all you need.
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 18:28:38 EST
Subject: Re: RE: Wax on, Wax off
I've tested a variety of different waxes, and have pretty much settled on
using two-step products, from Meguiars, or Griot's, or Zymol (can't really
tell much difference among them). Generally once a year I use their polish
product which smooths the finish, and then coat it with their wax product
which has no abrasives but does put on a protective finish. If the finish is
rough to the touch, then I'll use paint cleaning clay lubricated with their
spray quick-shine product.
Meguiars and Griot's both sell paint cleaning clay, or you can buy it from an
auto paint supplier. Great product, used by almost every auto shop but
almost never by us amateurs since until recently no one marketed it to
consumes.
Polishing products are Griot's Fine Hand Polish, Meguiars Gold Class Prep &
Swirl Remover, and Zymol H.D. Cleanse.
Waxes are Griot's Best of Show Wax, Meguiar's Gold Class yellow Carnauba Wax
or Liquid wax, and Zymol Carbon or Creme Canauba Wax.
Another alternative for a bright new finish that has been well taken care of
is Autoglym Extra Glossy Protection Sealant. Very fast to use, synthetic
protectant.
IMHO, you get results in direct proportion to your willingness to spend time
on the car. Cost isn't a great predicter among the products I listed above,
but all of them are more expensive than the junk you can buy in the average
parts store which isn't worth the effort to put it on.
Cheers
Gary
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2000 16:45:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Wax on, Wax off
Silicones. The best I can tell, among the three that Gary lists, only
Griot's says that it contains no silicones. Since I have painted one
car so far and intend to paint at least one Healey, I am interested in
avoiding any paint problems I can. Just acquiring the basic skills is
hard enough.
Silicones cause 'fish eye' pits in paint if you don't take some fairly
heroic measures to eliminate them. That is, when silicones have been
applied to the paint, when it comes time to repaint, whoever does it
will have to do more than just get the surfaces wet sanded clean and
even and wipe down with Acrylklean, s/he will have to use fisheye
eliminator and light candles in appropriate locations to avoid
painting the car more than one time. I have seen what even a bit of
PB Blaster overspray (which does contain silicones), cleaned several
times, can do to a piece of automotive metal when I tried to paint it.
So, I will be ordering some of Griot's elixers, despite their cost.
Of course if you never intend to paint your car, you can shift the
burden to whoever does it:-)
-Roland
BN1, BJ7
On Sun, 3 Dec 2000 18:28:38 EST, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
::
:: I've tested a variety of different waxes, and have pretty much settled on
:: using two-step products, from Meguiars, or Griot's, or Zymol (can't really
:: tell much difference among them). Generally once a year I use their polish
:: product which smooths the finish, and then coat it with their wax product
:: which has no abrasives but does put on a protective finish. If the finish is
:: rough to the touch, then I'll use paint cleaning clay lubricated with their
:: spray quick-shine product.[snip]
:: Cheers
:: Gary
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2000 18:18:35 -0700
Subject: Re: AH3000 III transmission and Smitty Toyota 5
If you paid 3 grand for your transmission rebuild and were willing to wait
"many months' for it I want to be your mechanic. You really need to invest in a
service manual and a set of tools.
Just my opinion.
Bill Lawrence
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2000 18:26:24 -0700
Subject: Re: A great Shockwave flash movie
Amen, G4 uber alles.
Bill Lawrence
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 12/1/00 6:24:03 PM, brad@bradw.com writes:
>
> << Ed, sit down and cool your jets.
>
> The email that came from Chris's account was sent automatically by a
> computer "worm". >>
>
> Interestingly, my AOL software notified me when I opened the message that the
> exec had been detached from the message. Pretty smart. Of course, since I'm
> a MAC user exclusively, I don't have to worry about downloadable execs anyhow.
>
> Cheers
> gary
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2000 18:43:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Battery Tender
WELL! I guess that's giving him the business!
Bill lawrence
Ron Rader wrote:
> Gary:
> That is actually true, but even with that fact known, I still think he's a
> nice guy!
> On the other hand he is a lousy miniature golfer.
> Ron
>
> Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> > In a message dated 12/1/00 11:36:42 PM, rader@interworld.net writes:
> >
> > <<
> > "P.S. Jim's a nice guy too, give him the business."
> > ...............................and he drives a healey.
> > Ron Rader >>
> >
> > Actually, he's been observed to be driving a 100 with a V8 in it. (I was
> > shocked...shocked!)
> >
> > Cheers
> > Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 20:54:28 EST
Subject: Re: Wax on, Wax off
In a message dated 12/3/00 4:44:06 PM, rwil@cts.com writes:
<< Silicones. The best I can tell, among the three that Gary lists, only
Griot's says that it contains no silicones. Since I have painted one
car so far and intend to paint at least one Healey, I am interested in
avoiding any paint problems I can. Just acquiring the basic skills is
hard enough. >>
Roland is right on target -- the reason why you'll never see Armor All in any
serious shop. Just to note -- Meguiars and Zymol do not contain silicone,
either. Zymol even advertises that it is made of all-natural ingredients.
The wax has a very nice coconut smell, which interestingly Meguiar's has been
emulating in its new upscale products. Or maybe that's what real Carnauba
actually smells like.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
www.britishcar.com
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2000 21:22:09 -0500
Subject: Re: AH3000 III transmission and Smitty Toyota 5
Not all of us are as smart ( ass ) as you are. The reason we subscribe to
this list is to get advise from people who know a little, or a lot, more
than we do. We don't need to shoot people down when they overspend. Why
do we have the list. Hopefully we try to share the knowledge.
Joe Smathers
1955 100
1960 3000
At 08:23 PM 12/03/2000 , you wrote:
>Sir,
>
>If you were willing to pay $3,000 and wait "many months" for the finished
>product I want to be your mechanic. You really need to invest in a service
>manual and a set of tools.
>
>Just my opinion.
>
>Bill Lawrence
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2000 22:14:51 -0500
Subject: Re: AH3000 III transmission and Smitty Toyota 5speedconversion.
Bill,
I don't want to be so smart ( or an ass ),but some of us are not
mechanically inclined. We love these cars as much as you do, but we do not
have the ability to perform the simple repairs such as transmission
repair. Lord knows, I would love to be able to pull the transmission, set
the timing or repair the distributor, but I am not able to do
so. Thankfully I have other talents that allows me to pay others to
perform these functions. I have had a Healey for nearly 30 years and just
now have the time to learn how to fix certain problems, but I will never be
a good mechanic. I don't have the aptitude. I wish I did, but I don't and
I know it. I have spent many hours " bothering my current mechanic " with
questions on why and how does this work. I will continue to do this as I
love this car and want to know how it works and how to repair. Please be a
little less demanding to us who love our Healey's as much as you do.
Best Regards, Joe
At 09:48 PM 12/03/2000 , you wrote:
>Touchi! On the other hand I think it is prudent for anyone who intends to
>drive
>one of these cars, or any car based on what is fast becoming a forgotten
>technology (at least in the larger production oriented repair shops) to become
>acquainted with and be able to perform simple repairs themselves.
>
>It has nothing to do with being smart, or even a smart ass. It has to do with
>being able to defend yourself in a marketplace full of sharks. I can't imagine
>what anyone could do to an Austin transmission that could possibly cause
>it to be
>that expensive to build. It is not that complex and does not contain that many
>parts.
>
>Familiarity with the machine can help you avoid being taken. It also can add
>immensely to your enjoyment of the car. It's my hobby, why would I pay someone
>else to enjoy it for me.
>
>Bill Lawrence
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2000 22:21:36 -0500
Subject: Re: AH3000 III transmission and Smitty Toyota 5speedconversion.
Bill,
I don't want to be so smart ( or an ass ),but some of us are not
mechanically inclined. We love these cars as much as you do, but we do not
have the ability to perform the simple repairs such as transmission repair.
Lord knows, I would love to be able to pull the transmission, set the
timing or repair the distributor, but I am not able to do so. Thankfully I
have other talents that allows me to pay others to perform these functions.
I have had a Healey for nearly 30 years and just now have the time to learn
how to fix certain problems, but I will never be a good mechanic. I don't
have the aptitude. I wish I did, but I don't and I know it. I have spent
many hours " bothering my current mechanic " with questions on why and how
does this work. I will continue to do this as I love this car and want to
know how it works and how to repair. Please be a little less demanding to
us who love our Healey's as much as you do.
Best Regards, Joe
At 09:48 PM 12/03/2000 , you wrote:
Touchi! On the other hand I think it is prudent for anyone who intends to
drive
one of these cars, or any car based on what is fast becoming a forgotten
technology (at least in the larger production oriented repair shops) to
become
acquainted with and be able to perform simple repairs themselves.
It has nothing to do with being smart, or even a smart ass. It has to do with
being able to defend yourself in a marketplace full of sharks. I can't
imagine
what anyone could do to an Austin transmission that could possibly cause it
to be
that expensive to build. It is not that complex and does not contain that
many
parts.
Familiarity with the machine can help you avoid being taken. It also can add
immensely to your enjoyment of the car. It's my hobby, why would I pay
someone
else to enjoy it for me.
Bill Lawrence
From "Jorge Lozano" <jmlozano at ismi.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 22:51:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Wax on, Wax off
I have used them all, and if you don't believe me come and look in the
cabinet in my garage. I have to say that the best I have ever used was the
Zaino product, both for clear coat and no clear coat. Their website is
http://www.zainobros.com/, check them out
I wish but I am not getting paid for the previous advertisement.
Jorge
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 23:03:28 EST
Subject: Re: Wax on, Wax off
In a message dated 12/3/00 9:57:03 PM Central Standard Time,
jmlozano@ismi.net writes:
<< cabinet in my garage. I have to say that the best I have ever used was the
Zaino product, both for clear coat and no clear coat. Their website is
>>
The guys on the Jag list have recommended this stuff and everyone says that
it is the best they have ever used. I hear that it takes a bit longer to do
the job since there are several steps, but the results are astounding. I
have never used this product but I have seen the results on some Jags and my
boss's 74 Vette...WOW I didn't think that lacquer could shine up like that.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
p.s. any of you Texas folks near Houston? I am moving there soon.
From "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos at email.msn.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 21:11:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Pinewood Derby Austin Healey Model
My six year old and I are just wrapping up the construction of a gorgeous
gold over black BN1 for the upcoming competition Dec.9th. It comes with a
drivers side rollover bar and exhaust out the back. Jake says he'll sell
for a hundred dollars but he gets all the money (If it does well at the
races he will probably want more) Cheers Henry Morrison
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 06:09:28 -0600
Subject: Re: Wax on, Wax off
chris-
the gulf coast ah club is active in houston. i'm in dallas and we'll look
forward to seeing you at the next texas healey roundup in april.
happy healeying,
jerry wall
----- Original Message -----
From: Csooch1@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Wax on, Wax off
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 23:03:28 EST
In a message dated 12/3/00 9:57:03 PM Central Standard Time,
jmlozano@ismi.net writes:
<< cabinet in my garage. I have to say that the best I have ever used was the
Zaino product, both for clear coat and no clear coat. Their website is
>>
The guys on the Jag list have recommended this stuff and everyone says that
it is the best they have ever used. I hear that it takes a bit longer to do
the job since there are several steps, but the results are astounding. I
have never used this product but I have seen the results on some Jags and my
boss's 74 Vette...WOW I didn't think that lacquer could shine up like that.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
p.s. any of you Texas folks near Houston? I am moving there soon.
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 08:18:57 EST
Subject: Re: Wax on, Wax off
I haven't waxed my car, including Detroit iron, in a dozen years. As is just
paraffin and if it is in the sun for any length of time, just evaporates. I
have been using a product called Liquid Glass and it apparently stays on the
paint for years at a time. I had my BN4 repainted down to bare metal just
before the Conclave in upper Michigan (1998?) and haven't used anything on it
yet. It is black, which is probably the toughest color to keep up and has
several coats of clear over it. When it gets dirty, I use a Dry Wash and
just wipe it down. Looks just like it came out of the paint shop.
Rudy Streng in NC
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2000 08:43:12 EST
Subject: RE: Wax on, Wax off
Yea, any of the paste carnubas will do that. They wear like iron, and
go on just as easily. Its best to have a buffer for putting on/taking
off the wax. That or a lot of time and patience if you do it by hand.
My personal preference is for a paste wax job, but my schedule
dictates otherwise.
Tim
In a message dated Sun, 3 Dec 2000 5:48:37 PM Eastern Standard Time, "Joseph
Giuliano" <joe.giuliano@giuliano.com> writes:
<<
Tim,
I had another car of mine come back from the shop. They used a marine
carnauba wax on the car and it shines like all get out.
It has been 7 months since the car has been back from the shop and the wax
has held up great under the south Florida heat.
Joe
67 BJ8 for sale
http://joe.giuliano.home.mindspring.com/default.htm
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 07:16:27 -0800
Subject: RE: Wax on, Wax off
The paint on my BN7 is pretty worked. I don't think it was ever that great
and she sat for 15 years before I got her. Any recommendations as to what
to do to attempt to bring up some sembance of gloss and then keep it looking
decent?
Jonathan Lane
Retail Sales
Moss Motors, Ltd.
(800) 235-6954 x3240
(805) 692-2525 - Fax
lanej@mossmotors.com
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2000 10:44:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Wrench Size
Hi John,
The wrench sizes that you need will cause you some grief to find.
The engine oil drain plug is hex 1.108" across the flats. (1 7/16 ) not a
common size. 28 Mmm is too tight and 29 mm is a bit loose.
The gearbox drain plug has a female square hole 0.44" across. We use a ground
down 1/2" extension.
The overdrive drain on the lated cars uses a special socket. I made one from a
piece of pipe, or on the earlier cars a 1.206" hex.
(1 7/32 ) 31 mm is a little loose.
Good luck.
Cleaning the overdrive filter is easy after you have the drain plug out and the
car comes with a magnet under the overdrive filter.
I have yet to hear of a good reason to use straight 30 oil rather than multi
grade. We have used 20W/50 for years with no problems. I have actually run a
race
box (without overdrive) on 80/90 synthetic and it lorked perfectly with no
problems.
I'm sure others have more knowledge on this subject and it would be interesting
to hear their views.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
JSoderling@aol.com wrote:
> Mike,
> I'm getting ready to change my engine oil and Transmission oil myself for the
> first time. I know I don't have the correct size wrenches. Could you please
> tell me the correct wrench size to buy for the engine oil drain plug, the
> transmission drain plug and the overdrive drain plug. The Service Manual
> does not contain this info.
> Also, I believe I've read about cleaning a filter at the transmission drain
> and putting in magnets? I've been told to use regular 30W engine oil in the
> tranny.
> Thanks.
> John Soderling
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 07:51:17 -0800
Subject: teen driving schools
There is another course, tailored for teenagers, that is sort of inexpensive
in Orange County, Callifornia. Lots of sliding and watered down asphalt.
They use Toyota's. They have been interviewed a couple of times on the local
non profit radio station Car Show. If anyone is interested, I will try to
get the specific information. When I tell a parent it costs a lot less than
$1000 and try to explain the benefits, I still got a glazed over look.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
graduate of a school at Adelaide International Raceway
From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 08:16:49 -0800
Subject: Polishing compound
I used 3M Finesse-it II on both of my cars and it really smooths and
brightens the paint. Applied it with a buffer and then followed up with
wax. This stuff has no silicone or wax in it. I find it is very good for
final polish after filling in paint chips also.
Jerry
From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 08:20:28 -0800
Subject: gas milege
I just calculated the gas milege on my recently rebuilt 29D engine. Very
disapointing but wondered what the rest of you get on a routine basis.
29D engine, HD6 carbs about 200 miles with not much freeway driving- 15
miles/gal (lots of idling and adjusting in the garage)
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 11:36:02 EST
Subject: Re: gas milege
Thats pretty normal somewhere between 15 and 18 mpg. Remember these cars were
all built in a time when we did not care about gas milage and emissions.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2000 12:04:04 -0500
Subject: Re: gas milege
My BT7 with O/D and 3.5 rear,175X15 Michelin radials averages 17 mpg. On a
thousand mile tour I squeezed out 22.5 but we rarely went over 60 which is
similar to owning ATT stock.
Jim D
Jerry Costanzo wrote:
> I just calculated the gas milege on my recently rebuilt 29D engine. Very
> disapointing but wondered what the rest of you get on a routine basis.
>
> 29D engine, HD6 carbs about 200 miles with not much freeway driving- 15
> miles/gal (lots of idling and adjusting in the garage)
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2000 12:28:24 EST
Subject: RE: Wax on, Wax off
Yes, one. I have gotten some cars in the past with weak paint. I have wet
sanded with 1000 or 1500 grit, then buffed out the paint. You will need a
buffer to do this, and lots of free time. Just recently I did this to an old
MGBGT which had sat for years outside. Really shines now.
Tim
In a message dated Mon, 4 Dec 2000 10:16:48 AM Eastern Standard Time, "Lane,
Jonathan" <lanej@mossmotors.com> writes:
<< The paint on my BN7 is pretty worked. I don't think it was ever that great
and she sat for 15 years before I got her. Any recommendations as to what
to do to attempt to bring up some sembance of gloss and then keep it looking
decent?
Jonathan Lane
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 09:19:44 -0800
Subject: Re: gas milege
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 10:27:08 -0800
Subject: Re: gas mileage
I bought a new BN7 in Paris in 1960, and it got 16 mpg (city and autoroute
combined) in Europe in the days when there were no speed limits in the
rural areas.
John Snyder
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 13:37:07 -0500
Subject: gearbox oil
"I have yet to hear of a good reason to use straight 30 oil rather than
multi
grade. We have used 20W/50 for years with no problems."
My sentiments also, Mike. Factory manual recommendation for the gearbox oil
at temperatures down to 40 degrees F is 20W50 for the
100-Six and 3000, and 30W for 100's. I always figured 20W50 superceded the
30W, since multi-viscosities were developed later.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 13:37:50 -0500
Subject: Re: gas mileage
On my trip to Indianapolis for Conclave in my BJ8, I noted the
following MPG for each tank full:
18.75
21.75
21.23
19.55
14.25 (Includes three laps at Putnam Park)
17.00
18.20
If you throw out the 14.25 mpg figure as an aberration, then my
average mpg was 19.41. This included crossing mountains, some
cruising at about 70 mph, and a general disinterest in fuel economy.
The two Hundreds that traveled with me got slightly better fuel
mileage.
Herman
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2000 13:45:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Wrench Size
Sorry, typo in my previous submission.
The nearest fractional equivalient to 1.108 " is 1 7/64 not 1 7/16 as previously
stated.
The correct wrenches for the oil drains may be B.S. but as all my B.S. sockets
and
wrenches were stolen in our recent break-in I cannot check that.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Michael Salter wrote:
> Hi John,
>
> The wrench sizes that you need will cause you some grief to find.
>
> The engine oil drain plug is hex 1.108" across the flats. (1 7/16 ) not a
> common size. 28 Mmm is too tight and 29 mm is a bit loose.
> The gearbox drain plug has a female square hole 0.44" across. We use a ground
> down 1/2" extension.
> The overdrive drain on the lated cars uses a special socket. I made one from a
> piece of pipe, or on the earlier cars a 1.206" hex.
> (1 7/32 ) 31 mm is a little loose.
> Good luck.
>
> Cleaning the overdrive filter is easy after you have the drain plug out and
>the
> car comes with a magnet under the overdrive filter.
>
> I have yet to hear of a good reason to use straight 30 oil rather than multi
> grade. We have used 20W/50 for years with no problems. I have actually run a
>race
> box (without overdrive) on 80/90 synthetic and it lorked perfectly with no
> problems.
>
> I'm sure others have more knowledge on this subject and it would be
>interesting
> to hear their views.
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
> JSoderling@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Mike,
> > I'm getting ready to change my engine oil and Transmission oil myself for
>the
> > first time. I know I don't have the correct size wrenches. Could you
>please
> > tell me the correct wrench size to buy for the engine oil drain plug, the
> > transmission drain plug and the overdrive drain plug. The Service Manual
> > does not contain this info.
> > Also, I believe I've read about cleaning a filter at the transmission drain
> > and putting in magnets? I've been told to use regular 30W engine oil in the
> > tranny.
> > Thanks.
> > John Soderling
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2000 13:46:46 -0500
Subject: Re: gas milege
Hi Jerry,
Are you talking discounted U.S. gallons or real ones ;-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Jerry Costanzo wrote:
> I just calculated the gas milege on my recently rebuilt 29D engine. Very
> disapointing but wondered what the rest of you get on a routine basis.
>
> 29D engine, HD6 carbs about 200 miles with not much freeway driving- 15
> miles/gal (lots of idling and adjusting in the garage)
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 14:05:26 EST
Subject: Re: gas milege
In a message dated 12/4/00 8:20:40 AM, costan0@attglobal.net writes:
<<
I just calculated the gas milege on my recently rebuilt 29D engine. Very
disapointing but wondered what the rest of you get on a routine basis.
29D engine, HD6 carbs about 200 miles with not much freeway driving- 15
miles/gal (lots of idling and adjusting in the garage) >>
When I first finished the rebuild on my 29D engine, I got about 18 miles to
the gallon on the first long trip (over the Sierra, through Yosemite, and
then down to LA, which was very close to what Norman Nock was getting on his
tricarb on that trip. Now, 8,000 miles later, on our 2,000 mile summer trip
to Canada and back, I got 20 mpg over the trip. I'd guess that 15 mpg isn't
out of the range for city driving and tune-up work. 18 is what most people
report especially on newly-rebuilt engines.
Cheers
Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 14:13:12 EST
Subject: Re: Wax on, Wax off
In a message dated 12/4/00 9:33:42 AM, Healybj8@aol.com writes:
<<
Yes, one. I have gotten some cars in the past with weak paint. I have wet
sanded with 1000 or 1500 grit, then buffed out the paint. You will need a
buffer to do this, and lots of free time. Just recently I did this to an old
MGBGT which had sat for years outside. Really shines now.
Tim >>
Just one more thought/suggestion. If you happen to be in the market for a
finishing sander, buy a Porter Cable Random Orbital Sander, and then buy a
set of wax and buffing pads for it from Griot's or Meguairs. Both companies
sell the Porter Cable sander as a "waxer" (Meguiars sticks their own label
over the Porter Cable label while adding $30 to the price; Griot's just adds
the additional cost without claiming that they manufacture it.) The benefit
of the random orbital is that the center of the pad moves in a rotary motion,
and the pad free-wheels around it, with the speed depending on your pressure.
The result is that it is almost impossible to put swirl marks into your wax
job, especially if you use the wax companies' foam pads and keep them clean.
I've just gotten one of these neat products and really like it. It even comes
with a hood/hose attachment so that when you're using it as a sander, you can
hook it up to your shop vac and vacuum up the sawdust as you're working.
Direct from Porter Cable, it is about $160. From the catalog companies, it is
about $200.
Cheers
Gary
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 14:16:45 EST
Subject: Re: gearbox oil
In a message dated 12/4/00 1:39:30 PM Eastern Standard Time,
MrFinespanner@prodigy.net writes:
<< "I have yet to hear of a good reason to use straight 30 oil rather than
multi
grade. We have used 20W/50 for years with no problems."
>>
Doug--
According to one who should know, detergent oil hs about 20% or so
detergents, meaning less oil in the oil. Givenn the crankcase capacities of
our cars I do not think it matters. But I run straight 30 non-D in my
transmission because of the above.
Best--Michael Oritt
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 14:30:01 EST
Subject: Re: gearbox oil
In a message dated 12/4/00 10:39:21 AM, MrFinespanner@prodigy.net writes:
<< "I have yet to hear of a good reason to use straight 30 oil rather than
multi
grade. We have used 20W/50 for years with no problems."
>>
Yes, but you're missing the point -- It's so much fun to make life more
complicated -- makes the sports car more mysterious.
The usual argument is that you shouldn't use detergent additives in your
transmission oil since that oil carries particulates in suspension and those
particulates can clog the fine passages in the overdrive. Its pretty hard to
find multigrade non-detergent oil.
Cheers
Gary
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2000 13:38:08 -0600
Subject: Re: gas milege
Hi All
During the first 1100 miles after an extensive rebuild to the 29K engine I've
averaged 22.8 mpg (imperial or 19 mpg US) - this includes a modest amount of
idling in the shop for various tinkering.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 12/4/00 8:20:40 AM, costan0@attglobal.net writes:
>
> <<
> I just calculated the gas milege on my recently rebuilt 29D engine. Very
> disapointing but wondered what the rest of you get on a routine basis.
>
> 29D engine, HD6 carbs about 200 miles with not much freeway driving- 15
> miles/gal (lots of idling and adjusting in the garage) >>
>
> When I first finished the rebuild on my 29D engine, I got about 18 miles to
> the gallon on the first long trip (over the Sierra, through Yosemite, and
> then down to LA, which was very close to what Norman Nock was getting on his
> tricarb on that trip. Now, 8,000 miles later, on our 2,000 mile summer trip
> to Canada and back, I got 20 mpg over the trip. I'd guess that 15 mpg isn't
> out of the range for city driving and tune-up work. 18 is what most people
> report especially on newly-rebuilt engines.
> Cheers
> Gary
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2000 12:37:56 -0800
Subject: Re: Wax on, Wax off
Hi Gary,
I did exactly what you describe. Bought the pads, polish and wax from
Griot's and the Porter Cable Random Orbital Sander on line. Only one
change, I searched around and found it for $95.00...sorry to break the
news to ya :(
http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/a/port/pr7424.htm?L+coastest+yvkx4321fff903f9+976034512
http://tools.bsd1.yourhost.com/grinders.html
(BTW, no sanding hood but it comes with a foam pad and Meguiars
"cleaning" wax)
I also highly recommend using paint cleaning clay (either Meguiars or
Griot's) before a normal wax job. Amazing how much smoother the paint
surface is.
Cheers,
John
> Just one more thought/suggestion. If you happen to be in the market for a
> finishing sander, buy a Porter Cable Random Orbital Sander, and then buy a
> set of wax and buffing pads for it from Griot's or Meguairs. Both companies
> sell the Porter Cable sander as a "waxer" (Meguiars sticks their own label
> over the Porter Cable label while adding $30 to the price; Griot's just adds
> the additional cost without claiming that they manufacture it.) The benefit
> of the random orbital is that the center of the pad moves in a rotary motion,
> and the pad free-wheels around it, with the speed depending on your pressure.
> The result is that it is almost impossible to put swirl marks into your wax
> job, especially if you use the wax companies' foam pads and keep them clean.
> I've just gotten one of these neat products and really like it. It even comes
> with a hood/hose attachment so that when you're using it as a sander, you can
> hook it up to your shop vac and vacuum up the sawdust as you're working.
> Direct from Porter Cable, it is about $160. From the catalog companies, it is
> about $200.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 13:13:47 -0800
Subject: Re: Wax on, Wax off
"It is almost impossible to put swirl marks into your wax " and better yet,
it is almost impossible to remove paint by buffing to hard on the
edges...Neil :-)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 04, 2000 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: Wax on, Wax off
>
> In a message dated 12/4/00 9:33:42 AM, Healybj8@aol.com writes:
>
> <<
> Yes, one. I have gotten some cars in the past with weak paint. I have
wet
> sanded with 1000 or 1500 grit, then buffed out the paint. You will need a
> buffer to do this, and lots of free time. Just recently I did this to an
old
> MGBGT which had sat for years outside. Really shines now.
>
> Tim >>
>
> Just one more thought/suggestion. If you happen to be in the market for a
> finishing sander, buy a Porter Cable Random Orbital Sander, and then buy a
> set of wax and buffing pads for it from Griot's or Meguairs. Both
companies
> sell the Porter Cable sander as a "waxer" (Meguiars sticks their own label
> over the Porter Cable label while adding $30 to the price; Griot's just
adds
> the additional cost without claiming that they manufacture it.) The
benefit
> of the random orbital is that the center of the pad moves in a rotary
motion,
> and the pad free-wheels around it, with the speed depending on your
pressure.
> The result is that it is almost impossible to put swirl marks into your
wax
> job, especially if you use the wax companies' foam pads and keep them
clean.
> I've just gotten one of these neat products and really like it. It even
comes
> with a hood/hose attachment so that when you're using it as a sander, you
can
> hook it up to your shop vac and vacuum up the sawdust as you're working.
> Direct from Porter Cable, it is about $160. From the catalog companies, it
is
> about $200.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From "JISah102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 18:31:08 -0500
Subject: Re: gas milege
Jerry: Here's my gas mileage
BN1, when it was a street car 27 MPG
BN7, Bone stock ` 20 MPG
BN6, 3000 engine 3 HD6's 17 MPG
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Costanzo <costan0@attglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 04, 2000 11:20 AM
Subject: gas milege
>
> I just calculated the gas milege on my recently rebuilt 29D engine. Very
> disapointing but wondered what the rest of you get on a routine basis.
>
> 29D engine, HD6 carbs about 200 miles with not much freeway driving- 15
> miles/gal (lots of idling and adjusting in the garage)
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 20:36:31 -0500
Subject: Gearbox oil (was: Re: Wrench Size)
>I have yet to hear of a good reason to use straight 30 oil rather than
multi
>grade. We have used 20W/50 for years with no problems. I have actually run
a race
>box (without overdrive) on 80/90 synthetic and it lorked perfectly with no
>problems.
>
>I'm sure others have more knowledge on this subject and it would be
interesting
>to hear their views.
>
>--
>Regards,
>
>Mike Salter
Hi, Mike -
Which gearbox oil to use is probably as much a matter of opinion as anything
else, and I'm sure the Big Healey gearbox isn't that picky; but here's my
reason for using 30W non-detergent: there are no oil filters in the
gearbox, and none in the overdrive other than the brass screen that keeps
out chunks. Detergent oils are intended to keep contaminants in suspension,
while non-detergents will let them settle out, particularly during the
fairly long rest periods most cars experience. I would rather the
contaminants settle out, if possible, rather than continue to circulate
through the gearbox and overdrive until the next oil change. I can only
find non-detergent oil in 30W.
As far as the heavier weight oils are concerned (80/90), the BMC shop manual
states that it is not desirable to use heavier oils in the overdrive since
the planetary gears will centrifuge out some of the oil components. That
may be a statement out of the past that is no longer applicable to today's
oil, I don't know. Until I rebuilt my overdrive and got it working again, I
used 70W motorcycle oil in my gearbox/overdrive in an attempt to help the
accumulator maintain pressure. Although the gearbox worked fine with the
70W, it still didn't make the overdrive work. 30W works for me now, so
there is no need to use a heavier oil.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 01:55:50 -0500
Subject: Re:Healey Poster
Hi,
A few months back I posted a request for a friend who was looking for an
original Red Austin Healey Poster, Publication No. 1091. He is still
looking and thought I would post the request again. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 15:38:00 +1100
Subject: Gearbox oil (was: Re: Wrench Size)
G'day Steve & Mike
For many years I have used a 20W/50 oil in the gearbox of the BN3. It is a
100S unit fitted with an overdrive.
Just last week I changed the oil to Penrite 30, which is a straight non
detergent 30 grade designed for gearboxes fitted with Laycock overdrives.
According to the manufacturer it also doesn't contain any nasties that would
attack the non-ferrous metals that are in the gearbox.
Penrite's Net address is: www.penrite.com.au
Now on to something completely different and especially for those of us who
collect anecdotes about the mysteries of Lucas. We have a '75 Jaguar XJ6 SII
that my wife normally uses. It was going like a charm when all of a sudden
the
air conditioning decided not to work, except when the windscreen wipers are
on. Now this is fine when it's raining, but not too good with our days
getting
hotter for the southern summer.
The local auto electrician thought it was funny!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
>>> Steve Byers 5/12/00 12:36:31 >>>
>I have yet to hear of a good reason to use straight 30 oil rather than
multi
>grade. We have used 20W/50 for years with no problems. I have actually run
a race
>box (without overdrive) on 80/90 synthetic and it lorked perfectly with no
>problems.
>
>I'm sure others have more knowledge on this subject and it would be
interesting
>to hear their views.
>
>--
>Regards,
>
>Mike Salter
Hi, Mike -
Which gearbox oil to use is probably as much a matter of opinion as anything
else, and I'm sure the Big Healey gearbox isn't that picky; but here's my
reason for using 30W non-detergent: there are no oil filters in the
gearbox, and none in the overdrive other than the brass screen that keeps
out chunks. Detergent oils are intended to keep contaminants in suspension,
while non-detergents will let them settle out, particularly during the
fairly long rest periods most cars experience. I would rather the
contaminants settle out, if possible, rather than continue to circulate
through the gearbox and overdrive until the next oil change. I can only
find non-detergent oil in 30W.
As far as the heavier weight oils are concerned (80/90), the BMC shop manual
states that it is not desirable to use heavier oils in the overdrive since
the planetary gears will centrifuge out some of the oil components. That
may be a statement out of the past that is no longer applicable to today's
oil, I don't know. Until I rebuilt my overdrive and got it working again, I
used 70W motorcycle oil in my gearbox/overdrive in an attempt to help the
accumulator maintain pressure. Although the gearbox worked fine with the
70W, it still didn't make the overdrive work. 30W works for me now, so
there is no need to use a heavier oil.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 00:48:50 -0500
Subject: Parking Lights and Tachometer
Hi, Listers
I am in need of advice in two areas. The left front running
light on my BJ8 was erratic. Taking it apart, I find significant
corrosion inside to the point that the coil spring is completely
frozen to the housing, hence the intermittent lighting. The parts,
except the spring, are salvageable with a little effort. The water was
probably getting in from either of 2 sources; 1. the bulb holder and
lamp body was installed with the notch pointing up, not down, and more
likely, 2. the black plastic tube in the fender well has many cracks
in it. My question, is the plastic tube available anywhere, and is it
part of the rubber boot in the fender well or a loose part? Upon
reinstallation, should I seal the end of the tube at the wires with
RTV or something?
Second item, I'd like to check my tach versus a tach/dwell
meter. The meters instructions are for a negative ground system, and
mine is still positive ground. Can I just reverse the meter wires at
the coil and ground or is there more to it? (I'm allergic to
electrical smoke. It scares me!) I also don't want to buy my friend a
new meter! Thanks in advance.
DON
BJ8 Pandora
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2000 08:56:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Parking Lights and Tachometer
Hi Don,
Can't answer the first question very well but on the second. I use a dach
dwell meter to check tachometers here and just hook is up in reverse as
you suggested. It works fine.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Don Gschwind wrote:
> Hi, Listers
> I am in need of advice in two areas. The left front running
> light on my BJ8 was erratic. Taking it apart, I find significant
> corrosion inside to the point that the coil spring is completely
> frozen to the housing, hence the intermittent lighting. The parts,
> except the spring, are salvageable with a little effort. The water was
> probably getting in from either of 2 sources; 1. the bulb holder and
> lamp body was installed with the notch pointing up, not down, and more
> likely, 2. the black plastic tube in the fender well has many cracks
> in it. My question, is the plastic tube available anywhere, and is it
> part of the rubber boot in the fender well or a loose part? Upon
> reinstallation, should I seal the end of the tube at the wires with
> RTV or something?
> Second item, I'd like to check my tach versus a tach/dwell
> meter. The meters instructions are for a negative ground system, and
> mine is still positive ground. Can I just reverse the meter wires at
> the coil and ground or is there more to it? (I'm allergic to
> electrical smoke. It scares me!) I also don't want to buy my friend a
> new meter! Thanks in advance.
> DON
> BJ8 Pandora
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 08:14:04 -0800
Subject: BJ8 Chassis
I have a customer who recently bought a special order 857-830 chassis. This
thing will fit BJ8s from chassis # 26705. As it turns out his car needs a
lot more than this and he is looking to sell it. Retail price on this thing
is $5250, but I imagine that he is willing to take quite a bit less. If
anyone is interested please let me know and I will pass on his name and
number.
Jonathan Lane
Retail Sales
Moss Motors, Ltd.
(800) 235-6954 x3240
(805) 692-2525 - Fax
lanej@mossmotors.com
From Tom Dugger <tdugger at ibm.net>
Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2000 10:51:27 -0600
Subject: Re: Polishing compound
I wonder if you can use it with a clearcoat finish? (non-healey Jeep)
tom
Jerry Costanzo wrote:
> I used 3M Finesse-it II on both of my cars and it really smooths and
> brightens the paint. Applied it with a buffer and then followed up with
> wax. This stuff has no silicone or wax in it. I find it is very good for
> final polish after filling in paint chips also.
>
> Jerry
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2000 16:17:34 +0000
Subject: Re: Wax on, Wax off, a personal experience - long
At one time I happened to live next door to a chemist who worked for Clorox.
He specialized in lab testing 'industrial' products of all kinds. Stopping
by my garage one Saturday afternoon, he watched me elbow greasing my way
over my '55 Jag XK140 which he lusted after in a big way. After watching my
efforts for 20 minutes or so, he asked if I'd like to know a better and
easier way to polish a car for the highest shine possible? How could I
refuse?
Rummaging around in my 'polish kit/bin/drawer,' he came up with a tired old
half can of Simoniz. "Ah," he said, "This is the ticket." Whereupon he
dampened a small piece of terry, wrung it dry and loaded it with wax. He
quickly rubbed the loaded square over the paint with a small circular
motions and 'straightened' the swirls by rubbing back over them with an easy
smooth motion. Without waiting a moment, he snatched a terry towel from a
nearby stack and quickly flicked it over the just waxed area. Again, without
taking a beat, he grabbed a second towel to buff up the area turning the
towel several times. All told, it took him about 30 seconds to shine a
30"x30" area. "Now, you try it," he said. I followed his directions to the
letter. Now I get the same results every time. Quick. Easy. Shiny. Slick.
As I happily polished away, he explained his simple truth about car
waxing. "Simoniz, and there are plenty of other brand names, is a natural
carnuba wax, the best you can buy. All other polishes are attempts to
develop a 'synthetic' carnuba. That includes silicon 'waxes,' which of
course, are not waxes at all.
Since that day all I have ever used is carnuba wax, brand name be damned. I
can 'Simoniz' today's little cars in under an hour. And, yes, I use it on
all 'bright work' too. Not to mention the top of my table saw to keep it
slick as well as rust free.
Ron
BN1
----------
>From: Healybj8@aol.com
>To: <lanej@mossmotors.com>, <brianmix@home.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: RE: Wax on, Wax off
>Date: Mon, Dec 4, 2000, 5:28 PM
>
>
> Yes, one. I have gotten some cars in the past with weak paint. I have wet
> sanded with 1000 or 1500 grit, then buffed out the paint. You will need a
> buffer to do this, and lots of free time. Just recently I did this to an
> old MGBGT which had sat for years outside. Really shines now.
>
> Tim
>
> In a message dated Mon, 4 Dec 2000 10:16:48 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej@mossmotors.com> writes:
>
> << The paint on my BN7 is pretty worked. I don't think it was ever that great
> and she sat for 15 years before I got her. Any recommendations as to what
> to do to attempt to bring up some sembance of gloss and then keep it looking
> decent?
>
> Jonathan Lane
> Retail Sales
> Moss Motors, Ltd.
> (800) 235-6954 x3240
> (805) 692-2525 - Fax
> lanej@mossmotors.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healybj8@aol.com [mailto:Healybj8@aol.com]
> Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2000 1:46 PM
> To: brianmix@home.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Wax on, Wax off
>
>
>
> In a message dated 12/03/2000 3:29:33 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> brianmix@home.com writes:
>
> << So, the question is: What is the best wax to use now? >>
>
> I guess that all depends on what kind of shape the paint is in. I like to
> use Turtle Wax Emerald series. This is a liquid wax that really is easy to
> use and leaves a nice shine. Makes water bead like nothing else I have
> used.
> Its non abrasive. Really good stuff for the after the usual car wash
> waxing.
>
> Common lore tells us that once a year you should use a paste wax on your
> car.
> This is a tougher wax job, and therefore does not wear off as quickly.
> Simonize or like should do, but that involves elbow grease.
>
> I found that paste works if you get a car with deteriorated paint with
> surface oxidation. The liquid stuff just does not get rid of the old paint,
>
> and consequently you can't get the shine like a paste wax will get.
>
> Sounds like you probably have a good paint job, so stick with the liquid
> waxes. If the car stays in the garage, then these should be all you need.
>
> Tim Wallace
> '67 BJ8
> Fuquay-Varina, NC
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 13:09:12 EST
Subject: Lucas, was gearbox oil, was wrench size
Maybe we should put these up on the Jaguar list -- but here's mine -- I have
a 1999 XK8 (convertible) with the standard wiring system (no longer Lucas,
actually now TRW I think) of the new Jaguars that works like a computer
network (one cable around the car and different switches send their messages
to the relevant component's computer with an address included in the message
- I kid you not). In any case, we were standing in the garage a few weeks
ago when we heard a buzz and click from the car -- not turned on or anything.
Walked over to notice the gas filler cap (which can only be opened with a
switch on the dash or remote key fob) was open. We closed it, walked away,
and it repeated the behaviour. We can only assume that the frequency of some
other transmitter (someone's garage opener, or remote door lock, or
something) actuates it.
All these things are very convenient now, but can you imagine trying to
"restore" a Jaguar XK8 in fifteen or twenty years?
Cheers
Gary
In a message dated 12/4/00 8:41:28 PM, Patrick.QUINN@det.nsw.edu.au writes:
<< Now on to something completely different and especially for those of us who
collect anecdotes about the mysteries of Lucas. We have a '75 Jaguar XJ6 SII
that my wife normally uses. It was going like a charm when all of a sudden
the
air conditioning decided not to work, except when the windscreen wipers are
on. Now this is fine when it's raining, but not too good with our days
getting
hotter for the southern summer.
The local auto electrician thought it was funny!!!!!!!!!!!!!! >>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 13:22:19 EST
Subject: Re: Wax on, Wax off, a personal experience - long
In a message dated 12/5/00 9:01:57 AM, arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net writes:
<< As I happily polished away, he explained his simple truth about car
waxing. "Simoniz, and there are plenty of other brand names, is a natural
carnuba wax, the best you can buy. All other polishes are attempts to
develop a 'synthetic' carnuba. That includes silicon 'waxes,' which of
course, are not waxes at all. >>
True, true, true. At least then. I certainly agree that carnauba (should be
about 30-35 percent of the wax) is the magic ingredient. I wonder if Simonize
still contains Carnauba -- nearly all the inexpensive waxes have cut back on
the percentage of carnauba or dropped it as an ingredient to save money
because it is quite expensive relative to synthetic stuff.
Incidentally, Griot's in their detailing manual make the point that there are
two ways of dealing with swirls -- you can grind off the paint around them
and get the entire surface down to the bottom of the swirl, or you can fill
them up with wax. Essentially most two-step products do a little of both.
Cheers
Gary
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 10:28:08 -0800
Subject: RE: Lucas, was gearbox oil, was wrench size
Well, I guess no matter how hard you try, you just can't take the Lucas out
of a British car.
Jonathan Lane
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2000 10:09 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Lucas, was gearbox oil, was wrench size
Maybe we should put these up on the Jaguar list -- but here's mine -- I have
a 1999 XK8 (convertible) with the standard wiring system (no longer Lucas,
actually now TRW I think) of the new Jaguars that works like a computer
network (one cable around the car and different switches send their messages
to the relevant component's computer with an address included in the message
- I kid you not). In any case, we were standing in the garage a few weeks
ago when we heard a buzz and click from the car -- not turned on or
anything.
Walked over to notice the gas filler cap (which can only be opened with a
switch on the dash or remote key fob) was open. We closed it, walked away,
and it repeated the behaviour. We can only assume that the frequency of
some
other transmitter (someone's garage opener, or remote door lock, or
something) actuates it.
All these things are very convenient now, but can you imagine trying to
"restore" a Jaguar XK8 in fifteen or twenty years?
Cheers
Gary
In a message dated 12/4/00 8:41:28 PM, Patrick.QUINN@det.nsw.edu.au writes:
<< Now on to something completely different and especially for those of us
who
collect anecdotes about the mysteries of Lucas. We have a '75 Jaguar XJ6 SII
that my wife normally uses. It was going like a charm when all of a sudden
the
air conditioning decided not to work, except when the windscreen wipers are
on. Now this is fine when it's raining, but not too good with our days
getting
hotter for the southern summer.
The local auto electrician thought it was funny!!!!!!!!!!!!!! >>
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 13:50:15 EST
Subject: New uses for Wax, etc.
Hi Ron,
I liked the use of polishing your table saw. I used Rain-X on the inside of
my shower door and the water just beads and runs off. The best part of
Rain-X on the car windshield is the easy removal of any frost in the mornings.
Rudy
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 10:49:19 -0800
Subject: RE: Lucas, was gearbox oil, was wrench size
My daily driver is an 88 Sterling, wiring by Packard!! of Northern Ireland.
It has ghosts...... Everything on the car works(including the power rear
seats) it's just that sometimes it works all by itself. My kids are
convinced the car is haunted.....
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2000 10:09 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Lucas, was gearbox oil, was wrench size
Maybe we should put these up on the Jaguar list -- but here's mine -- I have
a 1999 XK8 (convertible) with the standard wiring system (no longer Lucas,
actually now TRW I think) of the new Jaguars that works like a computer
network (one cable around the car and different switches send their messages
to the relevant component's computer with an address included in the message
- I kid you not). In any case, we were standing in the garage a few weeks
ago when we heard a buzz and click from the car -- not turned on or
anything.
Walked over to notice the gas filler cap (which can only be opened with a
switch on the dash or remote key fob) was open. We closed it, walked away,
and it repeated the behaviour. We can only assume that the frequency of
some
other transmitter (someone's garage opener, or remote door lock, or
something) actuates it.
All these things are very convenient now, but can you imagine trying to
"restore" a Jaguar XK8 in fifteen or twenty years?
Cheers
Gary
In a message dated 12/4/00 8:41:28 PM, Patrick.QUINN@det.nsw.edu.au writes:
<< Now on to something completely different and especially for those of us
who
collect anecdotes about the mysteries of Lucas. We have a '75 Jaguar XJ6 SII
that my wife normally uses. It was going like a charm when all of a sudden
the
air conditioning decided not to work, except when the windscreen wipers are
on. Now this is fine when it's raining, but not too good with our days
getting
hotter for the southern summer.
The local auto electrician thought it was funny!!!!!!!!!!!!!! >>
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2000 11:41:48 -0800
Subject: Re: Lucas, was gearbox oil, was wrench size
At 10:09 AM 12/5/2000, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>All these things are very convenient now, but can you imagine trying to
>"restore" a Jaguar XK8 in fifteen or twenty years?
>
>Cheers
>Gary
---------------------
Sounds like someone better start hording modern day car computers for the
next generation who'll want to do restos. I can't imagine Moss will be
getting reproduction CPUs made!
Bill Katz
Bay Area, CA
'67 BJ8
'94 325is
http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
From Fred Hunter <fhunter at kcnet.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2000 13:50:08 -0600
Subject: Re: Lucas, was gearbox oil, was wrench size
"Lane, Jonathan" wrote:
>
> Well, I guess no matter how hard you try, you just can't take the Lucas out
> of a British car.
>
> Jonathan Lane
>
My, my. Lucas in the computer business. And we thought Microsoft was
scary!
Best regards,
Fred Hunter
Many a wolf
Is never let in
Because of the hair
On his
Chinny-chin-chin
--Burma-Shave--
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 10:59:08 -0000
Subject: News Flash
The 1961 Austin Healey 3000 MKI Ex Works competition Department Reg No UJB
143 was sold at auction on 4th December for #48,000 (#54,000 with premium)
Also, I have updated my site to include further details of the Austin
Healey 3000 MkII 767KNX which is up for auction in February next year.
Details can be found by following the links on my home page.
Regards
David
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2000 15:34:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Lucas, was gearbox oil, was wrench size
Maybe your Jag was thirsty?
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> Maybe we should put these up on the Jaguar list -- but here's mine -- I have
> a 1999 XK8 (convertible) with the standard wiring system (no longer Lucas,
> actually now TRW I think) of the new Jaguars that works like a computer
> network (one cable around the car and different switches send their messages
> to the relevant component's computer with an address included in the message
> - I kid you not). In any case, we were standing in the garage a few weeks
> ago when we heard a buzz and click from the car -- not turned on or anything.
> Walked over to notice the gas filler cap (which can only be opened with a
> switch on the dash or remote key fob) was open. We closed it, walked away,
> and it repeated the behaviour. We can only assume that the frequency of some
> other transmitter (someone's garage opener, or remote door lock, or
> something) actuates it.
>
> All these things are very convenient now, but can you imagine trying to
> "restore" a Jaguar XK8 in fifteen or twenty years?
>
> Cheers
> Gary
>
> In a message dated 12/4/00 8:41:28 PM, Patrick.QUINN@det.nsw.edu.au writes:
>
> << Now on to something completely different and especially for those of us who
> collect anecdotes about the mysteries of Lucas. We have a '75 Jaguar XJ6 SII
> that my wife normally uses. It was going like a charm when all of a sudden
> the
> air conditioning decided not to work, except when the windscreen wipers are
> on. Now this is fine when it's raining, but not too good with our days
> getting
> hotter for the southern summer.
>
> The local auto electrician thought it was funny!!!!!!!!!!!!!! >>
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 15:56:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Gas Mileage
Hi all;
I found this gas mileage thread quite interesting. Since acquiring my
current 3000 Mk 2 tricarb in 1984, I have averaged 3,162 miles per year
at an average of 21.8 mi / gallon [Imperial]. Here is my history [I
tend to keep exhaustive records-one of my attributes: strength to some,
downright folly to others] For the first few years I didn't know
enough to top up the carbs with oil [I use 10W30]. Since 1986, the
carbs have not been touched/tuned, other than oil top up, on the
premise if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I use premium gas and have
always run with Michelin 165x15's. My overdrive has always worked
extremely well and I make sure it is topped up with 30W non detergent
oil. The car is a pure driver and I try to maintain it myself as much
as possible. Other than 2 flat tyres, it has let me down once when
the coil wire acorn broke. In that instance, a bandaid saved the day
thanks to my sister-in-law. [Note: I have found women to be extremely
resourceful-they seem to carry a wide variety of things with them]
Year Miles Mi/Gal [Imp] Mi/Gal [US]*
1984 1,290 19.7 16.4
1985 1,232 19.5 16.2
1986 745 19.8 16.4
1987 1,514 20.3 16.9
1988 2,121 23.8 19.8
1989 2,003 20.6 17.1
1990 2,957 22.3 18.5
1991 2,484 21.8 18.1
1992 3,654 23.0 19.1
1993 1,676 21.3 17.7
1994 4,397 22.8 19.0
1995 6,839 23.8 19.8
1996 4,073 23.1 19.2
1997 3,377 22.3 18.6
1998 7,170 22.4 18.6
1999 2,463 21.3 17.7
2000 5,758 23.1 19.2
Avg 3,162 21.8 18.1
Note: 1 Imperial Gallon = 4.546 Litres
1 U.S. Gallon = 3.780 Litres
Scott Morris, Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
'62 BT7 driver
'60 BN7 awaiting restoration
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
__________________________________________________
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 19:19:23 EST
Subject: Re: News Flash
In a message dated 12/05/2000 4:11:51 PM Mountain Standard Time,
david@bighealey.ltd.uk writes:
<<
The 1961 Austin Healey 3000 MKI Ex Works competition Department Reg No UJB
143 was sold at auction on 4th December for #48,000 (#54,000 with premium)
>>
Somehow this doesn't seem like all that much for a genuine works car with
history. What was its condition?
Roger
From "Jack_Rosen" <Jack_Rosen at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 20:37:20 -0500
Subject: Vehicle Retroprogramming
I'll be glad to cut you a new micro
when you need one.
Can even synthesize that wire falling off.
Jack Lucas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Hunter" <fhunter@kcnet.com>
To: "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej@mossmotors.com>
Cc: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2000 2:50 PM
Subject: Re: Lucas, was gearbox oil, was wrench size
>
> "Lane, Jonathan" wrote:
> >
> > Well, I guess no matter how hard you try, you just can't take the Lucas
out
> > of a British car.
> >
> > Jonathan Lane
> >
>
> My, my. Lucas in the computer business. And we thought Microsoft was
> scary!
>
> Best regards,
> Fred Hunter
>
> Many a wolf
> Is never let in
> Because of the hair
> On his
> Chinny-chin-chin
> --Burma-Shave--
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 12:42:00 +1100
Subject: Re: News Flash
G'day David
Many thanks for the information on UJB 143 and 767 KNX.
However I must say that 767 KNX was not the last Sebring 3000 as another BJ8
(DAC 593C) was prepared for the 1965 Sebring 12 Hour by the DHMC and driven
by
Paul Hawkins and Warwick Banks. This car has been in Australia since 1977.
However Ted Worswick did compete privately driving 767 KNX in the '66 and
'67
Targa Florio and was driven to and from Sicily. (I am fairly sure of the
dates
but my info is at home) The last Works big Healey entry at Targa was in '65
in
ARX 91B driven by Paul Hawkins and Timo Makinen as seen in the film Mountain
Legend.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>>> David Ward 5/12/00 21:59:08 >>>
The 1961 Austin Healey 3000 MKI Ex Works competition Department Reg No UJB
143 was sold at auction on 4th December for #48,000 (#54,000 with premium)
Also, I have updated my site to include further details of the Austin
Healey 3000 MkII 767KNX which is up for auction in February next year.
Details can be found by following the links on my home page.
Regards
David
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
From "Alexis Zarkades" <zdesign at mediaone.net>
Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2000 22:14:53 -0500
Subject: RE: Steering Wheel Pricing
I have replaced the steering wheel in my 1965 BJ8 with a Moto Lita wheel and
I was thinking of putting the original wheel on ebay. Could someone give me
an idea what I should be asking for it. The wheel is in perfect condition no
cracks or other defects, the car has only 32,000 miles on it so the wheel is
like new.
Nick Z
1965 BJ8
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 19:57:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Gearbox Oil
90 weight gear lubricant isn't "thicker" than motor oil. The numbers
are like comparing apples and oranges.
80w/90 Gear Lubricant has an warm operating temperature (210 degree F)
viscosity right on the borderline between an SAE 40 Motor Oil and an SAE
50 Motor Oil.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7) Graduate of Union Oil Company Brea Research
Center Advanced Products Course - 1976
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 20:38:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Barrett-Jackson Auction
I wonder why the "1959 Austin-Healey 3000 MK1 Just completed
professional, nut & bolt, chassis-up restoration . . ." that is shown as
#467 on the third page of the Barrett-Jackson 14 page magazine brochure
has a post-1961 vertical slat grill?
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 01:47:14 -0500
Subject: RE:XJ6 A/C (was Gearbox oil (was: Re: Wrench Size))
Patrick,
I had a similar problem when I first got my MGB. It had
an aftermarket radio of the removeable chassis type. The
turn signals would only work when the radio was in place.
I ended up replacing the wire which fed the flasher unit,
bypassing the original part of that circuit.
Your case sounds like a bad ground in the control circuit.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Quinn, Patrick
Sent: Monday, December 04, 2000 11:38 PM
To: byers@cconnect.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Gearbox oil (was: Re: Wrench Size)
G'day Steve & Mike
For many years I have used a 20W/50 oil in the gearbox of the BN3. It is a
100S unit fitted with an overdrive.
Just last week I changed the oil to Penrite 30, which is a straight non
detergent 30 grade designed for gearboxes fitted with Laycock overdrives.
According to the manufacturer it also doesn't contain any nasties that would
attack the non-ferrous metals that are in the gearbox.
Penrite's Net address is: www.penrite.com.au
Now on to something completely different and especially for those of us who
collect anecdotes about the mysteries of Lucas. We have a '75 Jaguar XJ6 SII
that my wife normally uses. It was going like a charm when all of a sudden
the
air conditioning decided not to work, except when the windscreen wipers are
on. Now this is fine when it's raining, but not too good with our days
getting
hotter for the southern summer.
The local auto electrician thought it was funny!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
>>> Steve Byers 5/12/00 12:36:31 >>>
>I have yet to hear of a good reason to use straight 30 oil rather than
multi
>grade. We have used 20W/50 for years with no problems. I have actually run
a race
>box (without overdrive) on 80/90 synthetic and it lorked perfectly with no
>problems.
>
>I'm sure others have more knowledge on this subject and it would be
interesting
>to hear their views.
>
>--
>Regards,
>
>Mike Salter
Hi, Mike -
Which gearbox oil to use is probably as much a matter of opinion as anything
else, and I'm sure the Big Healey gearbox isn't that picky; but here's my
reason for using 30W non-detergent: there are no oil filters in the
gearbox, and none in the overdrive other than the brass screen that keeps
out chunks. Detergent oils are intended to keep contaminants in suspension,
while non-detergents will let them settle out, particularly during the
fairly long rest periods most cars experience. I would rather the
contaminants settle out, if possible, rather than continue to circulate
through the gearbox and overdrive until the next oil change. I can only
find non-detergent oil in 30W.
As far as the heavier weight oils are concerned (80/90), the BMC shop manual
states that it is not desirable to use heavier oils in the overdrive since
the planetary gears will centrifuge out some of the oil components. That
may be a statement out of the past that is no longer applicable to today's
oil, I don't know. Until I rebuilt my overdrive and got it working again, I
used 70W motorcycle oil in my gearbox/overdrive in an attempt to help the
accumulator maintain pressure. Although the gearbox worked fine with the
70W, it still didn't make the overdrive work. 30W works for me now, so
there is no need to use a heavier oil.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 05:15:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: John Sprinzel to Guest at Healey Rendezvous
Hi all,
Just wanted to pass along some great news for all Spridget fans: the
Austin-Healey Club USA will sponsor John Sprinzel as the special guest at
next summer's Healey Rendezvous to be held in Grants Pass, Oregon, July 30 -
August 3. John's pivotal role in the development and competition successes
of the Sprite are legendary, and his recent four-part interview published in
Austin-Healey Magazine has well introduced him to our readers.
I can't say enough about what a tremendous opportunity this will be to meet
the gentleman who did so much to launch the long and distinguished
competition career of the Sprite. Hope we see you there!
By the way, the Sprite will be the "featured model" of the event. I'll be
there in my Bugeye! How about you?
Please also see:
http://www.healey.org/events.shtml
http://www.healey.org/rendezvous.shtml
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
President, Austin-Healey Club USA
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
_______________________________________________________
Tired of slow Internet? Get @Home Broadband Internet
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 12:16:02 EST
Subject: Re: News Flash
In a message dated 12/5/00 3:11:51 PM, david@bighealey.ltd.uk writes:
<< The 1961 Austin Healey 3000 MKI Ex Works competition Department Reg No UJB
143 was sold at auction on 4th December for #48,000 (#54,000 with premium) >>
I assume the currency was in pounds, not dollars; which would equate to US
Dollars 72,000 (?) . Where was the auction and do you know anything about
the buyer (UK, US, other country? -- private, dealer?)
Cheers
Gary Anderswon
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 12:19:31 -0500
Subject: Healey art
For those of you interested in Healey art, take a look at this web
site. Scroll down to view three different Healey framed collections
of historic art and photos. Click on each one for a nicely detailed
view and explanation of each.
http://www.timeframed.com/ASP/US_category.asp?product_group_id=30
Herman
--
Lucas trained Webmaster
Capital Area Austin Healey Club
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 12:36:56 EST
Subject: Re: Barrett-Jackson Auction
In a message dated 12/5/00 8:40:16 PM, pcowper@webtv.net writes:
<< I wonder why the "1959 Austin-Healey 3000 MK1 Just completed
professional, nut & bolt, chassis-up restoration . . ." that is shown as
#467 on the third page of the Barrett-Jackson 14 page magazine brochure
has a post-1961 vertical slat grill?
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7) >>
Which "magazine brochure" did you see? In which magazine or was this
requested/sent from B/J.
At a guess, it could be that the restoration isn't finished yet -- this is
very typical -- especially with several of the restorers I know who sell at
BJ and RM. At the time the auction company wants pictures, the car hasn't
gotten its chrome on yet, and Barrett-Jackson has been known for using photos
from their own files to "illustrate" the car being sold. Sometimes they
don't note on the photo, as they should, that it is a file photo.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
editor, British Car Magazine
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Wed, 06 Dec 2000 20:11:01 EST
Subject: Re: Monte-Carlo Lamp - ALERT
Gals and Guys:
Got a new one today - and YES I got it.
Mil_19 supposedely contain a jpg ZIP set of 5 to 6 pics.
>From a VERY good friend.
DUMP IMMEDIATELY!!! Three virus checkers = "clean" BUT it AIN'T !!!!
Ed
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Dec 2000 06:22:07 -0800
Subject: Golden Gate Holiday Party
Golden Holiday PartySunday December 10
Plan to attend the annual Golden Gate Holiday Party and buffet dinner on
Sunday December 10 at Remarks Harbor House in Vallejo. All Golden Gate
members and their families and friends, and all Bay Area Healey
enthusiasts are cordially invited. After dinner well have our yearly
meeting, elect officers and handle other club business.
When: Sunday, December 10, starting at 2PM. Buffet service follows at
3:30.
Price: $20 per person. This includes all food, desert and coffee as
well as gratuity and tax. Children under 12 are $8. Bridge tolls and
bar service are extra.
Send Check payable to Remarks Harbor House and send it to Mike
Kramer, Remarks Harbor House, 23 Harbor Way, Vallejo CA 94590.
Directions: From the Peninsula or Marin, take I-80 East across the
Carquinez Bridge to the Tennessee Street exit. Turn right as you come
off I-80, and cross over I-80. Follow Tennessee Street through Vallejo
to the end at the gate of the old Mare Island Navy Yard. Turn left on
to Mare Island Way, then take your first right on to Harbor Way.
Remarks is on the right about a quarter mile up.
From the East Bay take I-680 to the Benicia Bridge and stay to the left
as you come into the plaza. Bear left onto I-780 and follow up to I-80
East. Go two exits to the Tennessee Street exit.
If you have any questions about the menus or anything else, call Mike
at 707-446-2177, or call me at 408-541-9802. See you thereJohn Trifari
From walter w perine <mambo532 at juno.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 21:48:13 -0500
Subject: Back on the List
Hi,
I am back on the list after a 5 month hiatus. I can't remember some of
the rules here. Do they mind if one advertises Healey parts for sale
here?
Thanks
________________________________________________________________
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 21:58:07 EST
Subject: Re: News Flash
In a message dated 12/06/2000 10:19:06 AM Mountain Standard Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<<
<< The 1961 Austin Healey 3000 MKI Ex Works competition Department Reg No UJB
143 was sold at auction on 4th December for #48,000 (#54,000 with premium) >>
I assume the currency was in pounds, not dollars; which would equate to US
Dollars 72,000 (?) . Where was the auction and do you know anything about
the buyer (UK, US, other country? -- private, dealer?)
>>
If the price is in Pounds Sterling, then that would make more sense for this
car.
Roger
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 22:31:11 -0500
Subject: Rear axle serial numbers
Hello, Healeyphiles!
I have been trying to help someone identify his "Box o' BJ8", using the
details on other cars contained in the BJ8 Registry. The car in question
has lost all its identification tags, and the number stamped into the right
front shock tower is only vaguely legible for the last three digits (appear
to be "342", but even that isn't certain). One number that survives on the
car is the rear axle serial number. Since it is not likely that a given car
will have its rear axle housing changed during its lifetime, that would be a
good clue to the identity of a car.
Part of the registry database is a collection of about 300 BMIHT
certificates. From these, I have noticed a peculiarity: for the earliest
third of BJ8s, and for the latest third, the certificates almost always give
a rear axle number. But, for the middle group, the certs almost never give
such a number. My BJ8 (36666) is in the middle group. Neither my
certificate nor my rear axle have a serial number identified. The mystery
car has a gearbox serial number that would place it in the middle group, but
then it does have the axle number.
This raises the question: is the reason the middle group certs don't
provide a rear axle serial number because (A) the axles are not serialized,
or (B) the axles (or some of them) may be serialized but the data was not
recorded for some reason during production and is not available at BMIHT?
[If (A), then that would lead to the question of why the axles were
serialized in the beginning, then not, then were again at the end, but that
is not my immediate question].
To cut to the chase: does anyone out there have a rear axle with a serial
number, but whose BMIHT certificate doesn't specify the number?
Thanks for the help, and Happy Healeydays!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 22:46:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Parking Lights and Tachometer
Hi, Don -
While installing a new wiring harness in my BJ8, I noticed that the black
plastic tube that comes off the lamp boot was not in good shape. It
appeared to me that the tube and boot are either one molded piece, or the
boot is molded tightly around the tube. I don't believe these parts are
available separately from a new lamp assembly. However, I made a new tube
for each lamp pigtail out of clear plastic tubing that I bought from my
local home improvement store. I stuffed the end of the tube into the rear
of the lamp boot, and sealed it with black RTV. It's not concours, but its
nice and neat, and works to keep the water out of the lamp boot (I made a
small hole in the tubing at the low point to drain any water that might get
inside the tube). The clear tubing protects the wiring, but allows you to
see the condition of the wires inside.
Reversing the leads on the tach/dwell meter will not cause a problem.
Happy Healeydays!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Gschwind <dgschwind@prodigy.net>
To: 'Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: Gschwind, Don & Ellie <dgschwind@prodigy.net>
Date: Tuesday, December 05, 2000 12:52 AM
Subject: Parking Lights and Tachometer
>
>Hi, Listers
> I am in need of advice in two areas. The left front running
>light on my BJ8 was erratic. Taking it apart, I find significant
>corrosion inside to the point that the coil spring is completely
>frozen to the housing, hence the intermittent lighting. The parts,
>except the spring, are salvageable with a little effort. The water was
>probably getting in from either of 2 sources; 1. the bulb holder and
>lamp body was installed with the notch pointing up, not down, and more
>likely, 2. the black plastic tube in the fender well has many cracks
>in it. My question, is the plastic tube available anywhere, and is it
>part of the rubber boot in the fender well or a loose part? Upon
>reinstallation, should I seal the end of the tube at the wires with
>RTV or something?
> Second item, I'd like to check my tach versus a tach/dwell
>meter. The meters instructions are for a negative ground system, and
>mine is still positive ground. Can I just reverse the meter wires at
>the coil and ground or is there more to it? (I'm allergic to
>electrical smoke. It scares me!) I also don't want to buy my friend a
>new meter! Thanks in advance.
>DON
>BJ8 Pandora
From "Don Gschwind" <DGSCHWIND at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 23:07:59 -0500
Subject: Re: New uses for Wax, etc.
Hi, Listers
I have used "Simonize" paste wax as a parting agent to prevent
Epoxy from sticking to polished steel. Apply the wax LIBERALLY, and do
not buff or wipe it clean, leave it thick as applied. I've used it
when bedding a rifle barrel and action into the wood stock without any
problem. As always, you must protect the epoxy from getting into
undercuts or other ridges or you will never get them apart after it
sets up. I've also found the old "Simonize Kleener" to be excellent
for hand buffing parts or polished varnished wood sufaces. The usual
disclaimers apply, this is my experience only.
DON
BJ8 Pandora
From walter w perine <mambo532 at juno.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 23:33:23 -0500
Subject: My Junk On E-Bay
Just listed my "Junk" on E-Bay. Check it out. Sorry the pages are slow
loading, because of the numerous pictures.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=519245750
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=518833359
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=518334606
________________________________________________________________
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From Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp at juno.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 18:02:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Barrett-Jackson Auction
Get real guys
Anyone who has paid any attention at all would have noticed serious flaws
in most of the "restored" cars sold in these auctions. These auctions
exist to satisfy investors who think they can make a killing dealing in
exotic cars.
On Wed, 6 Dec 2000 12:36:56 EST Editorgary@aol.com writes:
>
> In a message dated 12/5/00 8:40:16 PM, pcowper@webtv.net writes:
>
> << I wonder why the "1959 Austin-Healey 3000 MK1 Just completed
> professional, nut & bolt, chassis-up restoration . . ." that is
> shown as #467 on the third page of the Barrett-Jackson 14 page magazine
> brochure has a post-1961 vertical slat grill?
>
> Pete Cowper (1960 BT7) >>
>
> Which "magazine brochure" did you see? In which magazine or was this
> requested/sent from B/J.
>
> At a guess, it could be that the restoration isn't finished yet -- this is
> very typical -- especially with several of the restorers I know who sell at
> BJ and RM. At the time the auction company wants pictures, the car hasn't
> gotten its chrome on yet, and Barrett-Jackson has been known for using
> photos from their own files to "illustrate" the car being sold. Sometimes
> they don't note on the photo, as they should, that it is a file photo.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> editor, British Car Magazine
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 05:41:42 -0500
Subject: K-Mart
Hi all:
Would the gentleman that posted the message about the model Healeys at
K-Mart please provide more info; were they Matchbox cars or Hotwheels or
what category or manufacturer; appox. size? I don't know anything about
model cars, but looked in my local K-Mart but didn't see any Healeys.
Thanks for any help.
lance
54 bn1
From "Wm. \"Kit\" Henry II" <khenry at hmcltd.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 07:36:19 -0500
Subject: Attn: Ed Orr
Sorry to bomb the list !
Ed please send me an e-mail, can't find your e-mail address
Kit
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 06:12:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Events List Added to AHCUSA Website
Hi team,
Just a quick note to let you know that we have just launched an "Upcoming
Events" page on the AHCUSA website. It's pretty barebones at the moment,
but we look forward to adding more event info as we get it. Please have a
look:
http://www.healey.org/events.shtml
Right now I don't believe that there is any Healey-centered events list on
the web, and so we'd like to make this one. In addition to the well-known,
Healey-club hosted events, we'd also like to post info on the many generic
British car events and meets that occur around the country each year. So,
if you know of events of interest to Healey owners, please send me the
following info:
1. Name of event.
2. Date(s) of event (our list shows the start date of multi-day events).
3. Place of event.
4. Contact person's name and telephone number.
5. URL of event-related website, if available.
Thanks!
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2
1 x AN5, and looking for more...
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
_______________________________________________________
Tired of slow Internet? Get @Home Broadband Internet
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 10:16:49 -0800
Subject: Re: Back on the List
Walter: Dispite numerous discussions on the web to the contrary, I enjoy
seeing (and occasionally buying!!!) items for sale. EDS
walter w perine wrote:
> Hi,
> I am back on the list after a 5 month hiatus. I can't remember some of
> the rules here. Do they mind if one advertises Healey parts for sale
> here?
> Thanks
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 07:19:55 -0800
Subject: Re: [AHCUSA] Events List Added to AHCUSA Website
At 06:12 AM 12/7/00 -0800, Reid Trummel wrote:
>...Please have a look:
>
>http://www.healey.org/events.shtml
Looks pretty good, Reid.
>Right now I don't believe that there is any Healey-centered events list on
>the web...
Well, there's ours (http://www.sdhealey.org/events.html, feel free to copy
any events we've listed for your list), and several other regional clubs'
sites have calendars, not to mention AHCA's
(http://www.serve.com/AHCA/ahcaevnt.htm). Unfortunately, many of them
aren't updated very often, so it'll be great if you can provide a reliable
source of current, accurate event info.
>...please send me the following info:
>4. Contact person's name and telephone number.
or email address (this *is* the web, isn't it?).
TTFN,
Rick
--
Rick Snover
Editor, Healey Hearsay, and Vice President/Membership Chair - Elect
Austin-Healey Club of San Diego <http://www.sdhealey.org>
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 10:41:13 -0500
Subject: Re: [AHCUSA] Events List Added to AHCUSA Website
Just to echo Rick's comment re updateing; I went through the sites I
could find easily, last evening, intending to get a head start on
planning for next summer and for the most part the sites were
substantially different throughout current ranges and some were last
updated for events in the summer of '00.
> Unfortunately, many of them
>aren't updated very often, so it'll be great if you can provide a
reliable
>source of current, accurate event info.
>
Ed A
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 07:49:23 -0800
Subject: RE: Back on the List
Man, you just missed a very heated debate on this very subject. I think the
general concensus is that individuals selling parts is fine, but any real
commercialization of the list is highly frowned upon. Suits me just fine.
Jonathan Lane
-----Original Message-----
From: walter w perine [mailto:mambo532@juno.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2000 6:48 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Back on the List
Hi,
I am back on the list after a 5 month hiatus. I can't remember some of
the rules here. Do they mind if one advertises Healey parts for sale
here?
Thanks
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 12:13:33 EST
Subject: Re: Back on the List
The rules have it being ok to sell stuff.
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 12/6/00 6:52:22 PM, mambo532@juno.com wrote:
<<Hi,
I am back on the list after a 5 month hiatus. I can't remember some of
the rules here. Do they mind if one advertises Healey parts for sale
here?
Thanks>>
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 09:52:32 +0000
Subject: Old auto products, new uses
Another lister and I contacted each other off list offering simple
solutions using old products new ways. For example, auto paste wax
keeps table saw tops slick and rust free. Using Rain-X on the inside
of glass showers keeps water and mineral spots away.
Any other ideas out there?
Ron
BN1
From "George Castleberry" <leavcast at infomagic.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 11:40:16 -0700
Subject: Al-Fins
Can someone tell me how to tell the difference between an original Al-Fin
drum and a reproduction one?
Thanks,
George
BN1-L/157155
From "JISah102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 13:44:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Old auto products, new uses
Lemon Pledge on plastic windows..... Sidescreens and hardtop rear. Seems to
fill small scratches and scuffs.
Jim
BN1, BN2, BN6, BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: rons <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 4:52 AM
Subject: Old auto products, new uses
>
> Another lister and I contacted each other off list offering simple
> solutions using old products new ways. For example, auto paste wax
> keeps table saw tops slick and rust free. Using Rain-X on the inside
> of glass showers keeps water and mineral spots away.
>
> Any other ideas out there?
>
> Ron
> BN1
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 12:50:54 -0600
Subject: Axle (rear) serial numbers
Hi Steve
Just out of interest what BJ8s are classified as early, middle, and late
- in other words between which VIN numbers do each group of these cars
fall. Having to deal first with fossil invertebrates then with current
invertebrate fauna I've always found classification systems interesting,
what criteria did you apply to establish these divisions?
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
From "Blair L. Harber" <blharber at vaxxine.com>
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 16:23:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Al-Fins
George;
Real Alfins are stamped with the Alfin name and product number. I
wouldn't believe that reproductions are. That would be infringement.
Blair
George Castleberry wrote:
> Can someone tell me how to tell the difference between an original Al-Fin
> drum and a reproduction one?
>
> Thanks,
>
> George
> BN1-L/157155
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 15:43:00 -0600
Subject: [Fwd: Axle (rear) serial numbers]
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From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Axle (rear) serial numbers
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 15:04:29 -0500
MIME-Version: 1.0
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Hi, Ed --
I was giving my subjective impression of the groups, and as I actually count
them they don't line up in neat thirds.
Of the certificates I have, from HBJ8L/25317 to HBJ8L/36139 (170 of them),
with very few exceptions (14) they give a rear axle number. Then, from
36666 (my own) to 40252 (66 certs), none of them give a rear axle number.
>From 40335 to 43026 (68 certs), all of them EXCEPT the very last(!) give a
rear axle number.
I know my axle is not serialized, so how could the cert give one for my car?
I did notice one interesting thing, though: I have TWO certs for 25447
because someone who only thought they owned that car got a cert, and the guy
who actually DID own it got one. One of them gives an axle number, the
other one doesn't.
Weird, and intriguing. What I really need is for everyone who has a cert
with a missing axle number to crawl up under their car with a magnifying
glass and light and report back to me on what they find. Do you think I
would be successful at that if I post my request to the list? :-)
Happy Healeydays!
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: M.E.&E.A. Driver <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
Cc: Austin Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, December 07, 2000 1:49 PM
Subject: Axle (rear) serial numbers
>
>Hi Steve
>
>Just out of interest what BJ8s are classified as early, middle, and late
>- in other words between which VIN numbers do each group of these cars
>fall. Having to deal first with fossil invertebrates then with current
>invertebrate fauna I've always found classification systems interesting,
>what criteria did you apply to establish these divisions?
>
>Kind regards
>Ed
>Saskatoon
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 22:23:32 +0000
Subject: Re: News Flash
But...the body on it was a four seater.....and the photos of it in the Brooks
manual show it with a two seater (BN7) body, as didi the history documents
although the chassis number was BN7. I asked to see the docs and the pictures of
it as it was shipped to Oz had a two-seater body. I was not the only person to
notice this. There was nothing in the history or the catalogue suggesting when,
why or how it had been done.
It was mentioned to the auctioneer by at least one person before the auction
started.
The sale was Brooks, Olympia, UK the price is sterling (not guineas!!)
Peter Dzwig
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 12/5/00 3:11:51 PM, david@bighealey.ltd.uk writes:
>
> << The 1961 Austin Healey 3000 MKI Ex Works competition Department Reg No UJB
> 143 was sold at auction on 4th December for #48,000 (#54,000 with premium) >>
>
> I assume the currency was in pounds, not dollars; which would equate to US
> Dollars 72,000 (?) . Where was the auction and do you know anything about
> the buyer (UK, US, other country? -- private, dealer?)
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderswon
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 17:32:40 -0500
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Axle (rear) serial numbers]
I think you should move to the leprechaun list!!
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
"M.E.&E.A. Driver" wrote:
> Return-Path: <byers@cconnect.net>
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> From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
> To: "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
> Subject: Re: Axle (rear) serial numbers
> Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 15:04:29 -0500
> MIME-Version: 1.0
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>
> Hi, Ed --
>
> I was giving my subjective impression of the groups, and as I actually count
> them they don't line up in neat thirds.
>
> Of the certificates I have, from HBJ8L/25317 to HBJ8L/36139 (170 of them),
> with very few exceptions (14) they give a rear axle number. Then, from
> 36666 (my own) to 40252 (66 certs), none of them give a rear axle number.
> >From 40335 to 43026 (68 certs), all of them EXCEPT the very last(!) give a
> rear axle number.
>
> I know my axle is not serialized, so how could the cert give one for my car?
> I did notice one interesting thing, though: I have TWO certs for 25447
> because someone who only thought they owned that car got a cert, and the guy
> who actually DID own it got one. One of them gives an axle number, the
> other one doesn't.
>
> Weird, and intriguing. What I really need is for everyone who has a cert
> with a missing axle number to crawl up under their car with a magnifying
> glass and light and report back to me on what they find. Do you think I
> would be successful at that if I post my request to the list? :-)
>
> Happy Healeydays!
> Steve
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: M.E.&E.A. Driver <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
> To: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
> Cc: Austin Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, December 07, 2000 1:49 PM
> Subject: Axle (rear) serial numbers
>
> >
> >Hi Steve
> >
> >Just out of interest what BJ8s are classified as early, middle, and late
> >- in other words between which VIN numbers do each group of these cars
> >fall. Having to deal first with fossil invertebrates then with current
> >invertebrate fauna I've always found classification systems interesting,
> >what criteria did you apply to establish these divisions?
> >
> >Kind regards
> >Ed
> >Saskatoon
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 17:46:18 EST
Subject: Safety Under the Car
We've just finished editing a "Safety in Your Workshop" article for British
Car Magazine, which has raised my sensitivity a little bit, but I still
wonder about two recent pictures I've seen in various Healey club
publications:
One I'm looking at now is on the cover of the Oklahoma Austin-Healey Owners
Club newsletter. The picture is cute, on the face of it, until you start to
reconstruct the scene. John Thousand has his 100 jacked up with the wheel
removed. His head is positioned as carefully as a French executioner might
have done inside the fender well, with the back of his neck against the top
of the wheel well rim, and his head over the brake drum. What makes the
picture even more cute is that Chuck Anderson's five or so year old
grandson, in a hat suitable for an executioner, is crouching very near the
guillotine, er, jack handle. Since we've heard no reports of a headless John
Thousand, we can only assume that Chuck's grandson didn't accidentally knock
or rotate the jack handle.
Where, oh where, were the jack stands? And, where oh where was the person
who should have been keeping a five year old away from a jacked-up car?
The other picture was of, I believe, Tom Mason under a car in a similarly
jack-stand deprived and wheel-deprived jacked-up state of affairs at, I
believe, conclave, in the Healey Marque.
Should I be worried that people are courting injury and death in our popular
press by working under cars resting only on jacks? Or am I just unnecessarily
paranoid?
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 23:05:30 +0000
Subject: Re: News Flash
OK Since you ask the following is taken verbatim from the catalogue. I hope that
they won't mind:
"Chassis-no HBN7-6685 Engine no 29DUH/7326 (sic)
[There is a bit about what woinderful things Big Healeys are but that is already
well-established on this list :-). Then there is a bit about DD300 and its
relation to UJB 143]
In 1961 the works, who had retained the registration book, re-alloctaed UJB 143
to a new car. This car - the one offered here - was first used competitively by
works drivers Peter Riley (who had driven the original 'UJB 143' at SEbring and
Le Mans) and Tony Ambrose in the Swedish Midnight Sun Rally....finishing second
in class and twelfth overall.'UJB 143' was later crewed by works drivers Pat
Moss and Ann Wisdom to a class win inth Tour of Corsica before serving as Peter
Riley and Ann Wisdom's 'wedding car' when the couple married in March 1962. At
the end of its works career 'UJB 143' was sold to George Humble and then to a
Mr. Ainsworth.
The car has been resident in Australia since 1978 and the vendor advises us that
it has never been used in other than competition or limited road/rally
applications during its time there. 'UJB 143' is on the correct triple SU HD8
carburettors and has a cast-iron block and twelve port cylinder block which also
are correct. Maxiimum horespower is unknown but is thought to be about 1540 -
160 bhp at the flywheel. Despite its horsepower deficiency compared to 'modern'
racing Austin-Healeys 3000s, thevendor has declined to have the engine rebuilt
to a higher state of tune because of the car's historic significance. He
observes "That of course has ramifications for drive train and brakes as the car
still runs Tulip Rally gear ratios and original Girling and Dunlop discs. Rear
end is currently 3.5:1"
The works-type speedometer currently reads 39, 000 miles; a figure likely to be
genuine as the car is believed to have displayed 20,000 recorded miles at the
time of its arrival in Australia. Restored in 1995 and re-finished in its
original colour scheme of red with black interior, 'UJB 143' is reported in
'good' condition throughout and comes with Dunlop racing tyres fitted and
removable works hardtop. Included with the car are a Motolita wood-rim steering
wheel, old Austin-Healey seats ........Accompanying correspondence from Peter
Riley and Bill Price detailing its history."
...And yet inside the back of the car were two occasional seats and behind that
was a bulkhead with an ally panel where the spare should have gone through and
the rear shroud stopped immediately inside the hardtop.
Condition: Good, nice patina, matt red chassis work and radiator. Seats are
modern competition with appropriate harness and rollcage, presumably to FIA
standards. The catalogue has pictures of it racing. Certainly not concours but
then that isn't what you are buying if you go after a car like this.
Incidentally the number 'UJB 143' isn't the registered number of the car as the
UK DVLC informs that the number is out of circulation. The number itself would
have to be re-applied for and would almost certainly be re-granted given that
his is so clearly the original car.
It was probably a fair price for the car in condition as sold.
Peter Dzwig
Rmoment@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 12/05/2000 4:11:51 PM Mountain Standard Time,
> david@bighealey.ltd.uk writes:
>
> <<
> The 1961 Austin Healey 3000 MKI Ex Works competition Department Reg No UJB
> 143 was sold at auction on 4th December for #48,000 (#54,000 with premium)
> >>
>
> Somehow this doesn't seem like all that much for a genuine works car with
> history. What was its condition?
>
> Roger
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 23:05:54 +0000
Subject: Re: News Flash
OK Since you ask the following is taken verbatim from the catalogue. I hope that
they won't mind:
"Chassis-no HBN7-6685 Engine no 29DUH/7326 (sic)
[There is a bit about what woinderful things Big Healeys are but that is already
well-established on this list :-). Then there is a bit about DD300 and its
relation to UJB 143]
In 1961 the works, who had retained the registration book, re-alloctaed UJB 143
to a new car. This car - the one offered here - was first used competitively by
works drivers Peter Riley (who had driven the original 'UJB 143' at SEbring and
Le Mans) and Tony Ambrose in the Swedish Midnight Sun Rally....finishing second
in class and twelfth overall.'UJB 143' was later crewed by works drivers Pat
Moss and Ann Wisdom to a class win inth Tour of Corsica before serving as Peter
Riley and Ann Wisdom's 'wedding car' when the couple married in March 1962. At
the end of its works career 'UJB 143' was sold to George Humble and then to a
Mr. Ainsworth.
The car has been resident in Australia since 1978 and the vendor advises us that
it has never been used in other than competition or limited road/rally
applications during its time there. 'UJB 143' is on the correct triple SU HD8
carburettors and has a cast-iron block and twelve port cylinder block which also
are correct. Maxiimum horespower is unknown but is thought to be about 150 - 160
bhp at the flywheel. Despite its horsepower deficiency compared to 'modern'
racing Austin-Healeys 3000s, thevendor has declined to have the engine rebuilt
to a higher state of tune because of the car's historic significance. He
observes "That of course has ramifications for drive train and brakes as the car
still runs Tulip Rally gear ratios and original Girling and Dunlop discs. Rear
end is currently 3.5:1"
The works-type speedometer currently reads 39, 000 miles; a figure likely to be
genuine as the car is believed to have displayed 20,000 recorded miles at the
time of its arrival in Australia. Restored in 1995 and re-finished in its
original colour scheme of red with black interior, 'UJB 143' is reported in
'good' condition throughout and comes with Dunlop racing tyres fitted and
removable works hardtop. Included with the car are a Motolita wood-rim steering
wheel, old Austin-Healey seats ........Accompanying correspondence from Peter
Riley and Bill Price detailing its history."
...And yet inside the back of the car were two occasional seats and behind that
was a bulkhead with an ally panel where the spare should have gone through and
the rear shroud stopped immediately inside the hardtop.
Condition: Good, nice patina, matt red chassis work and radiator. Seats are
modern competition with appropriate harness and rollcage, presumably to FIA
standards. The catalogue has pictures of it racing. Certainly not concours but
then that isn't what you are buying if you go after a car like this.
Incidentally the number 'UJB 143' isn't the registered number of the car as the
UK DVLC informs that the number is out of circulation. The number itself would
have to be re-applied for and would almost certainly be re-granted given that
his is so clearly the original car.
It was probably a fair price for the car in condition as sold.
Peter Dzwig
Rmoment@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 12/05/2000 4:11:51 PM Mountain Standard Time,
> david@bighealey.ltd.uk writes:
>
> <<
> The 1961 Austin Healey 3000 MKI Ex Works competition Department Reg No UJB
> 143 was sold at auction on 4th December for #48,000 (#54,000 with premium)
> >>
>
> Somehow this doesn't seem like all that much for a genuine works car with
> history. What was its condition?
>
> Roger
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 17:13:23 -0600
Subject: RE: Safety Under the Car
I believe the term is "natural selection". You're not paranoid.
I'm so paranoid that I refuse to go under my (heavy) BMW 535i even when it's
on jackstands. Somehow, I don't mind when the car has a proper frame but
unibodies...well, sheet metal has been known to abruptly crush and give.
And yes, my five year old son (affectionately nicknamed Wriggly) is banished
inside the house when I work on the car, despite loud protests. Mom knows
to keep a super-sharp eye on the little guy. In our house we speak of his
location in terms of orbitals for electrons - we only have a probability for
his location, never an exact one.
I can't wait till he wants to work on the Healey :-)
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 2:46 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Safety Under the Car
>>Where, oh where, were the jack stands? And, where oh where was the person
who should have been keeping a five year old away from a jacked-up car?
The other picture was of, I believe, Tom Mason under a car in a similarly
jack-stand deprived and wheel-deprived jacked-up state of affairs at, I
believe, conclave, in the Healey Marque.
Should I be worried that people are courting injury and death in our popular
press by working under cars resting only on jacks? Or am I just
unnecessarily
paranoid?
Cheers
Gary Anderson<<
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 18:16:03 EST
Subject: Re: News Flash (...6685?)
I've got copies of documentation, and also the Browning book which (if memory
serves) says that 6685 (and the surrounding four other numbers) was the
number on the original Sebring set of cars...
So, what is the DD 300 chassis number?
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 12/7/00 3:08:59 PM, pdzwig@summaventures.com writes:
<< "Chassis-no HBN7-6685 Engine no 29DUH/7326 (sic)
[There is a bit about what woinderful things Big Healeys are but that is
already
well-established on this list :-). Then there is a bit about DD300 and its
relation to UJB 143]
In 1961 the works, who had retained the registration book, re-alloctaed UJB
143
to a new car. This car - the one offered here - was first used competitively
by
works drivers Peter Riley (who had driven the original 'UJB 143' at SEbring
and
Le Mans) >>
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 17:39:40 -0600
Subject: Re: Safety Under the Car
You can lead a horse to water.........................!!!
----- Original Message -----
From: Editorgary@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Safety Under the Car
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 17:46:18 EST
We've just finished editing a "Safety in Your Workshop" article for British
Car Magazine, which has raised my sensitivity a little bit, but I still
wonder about two recent pictures I've seen in various Healey club
publications:
One I'm looking at now is on the cover of the Oklahoma Austin-Healey Owners
Club newsletter. The picture is cute, on the face of it, until you start to
reconstruct the scene. John Thousand has his 100 jacked up with the wheel
removed. His head is positioned as carefully as a French executioner might
have done inside the fender well, with the back of his neck against the top
of the wheel well rim, and his head over the brake drum. What makes the
picture even more cute is that Chuck Anderson's five or so year old
grandson, in a hat suitable for an executioner, is crouching very near the
guillotine, er, jack handle. Since we've heard no reports of a headless John
Thousand, we can only assume that Chuck's grandson didn't accidentally knock
or rotate the jack handle.
Where, oh where, were the jack stands? And, where oh where was the person
who should have been keeping a five year old away from a jacked-up car?
The other picture was of, I believe, Tom Mason under a car in a similarly
jack-stand deprived and wheel-deprived jacked-up state of affairs at, I
believe, conclave, in the Healey Marque.
Should I be worried that people are courting injury and death in our popular
press by working under cars resting only on jacks? Or am I just unnecessarily
paranoid?
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 16:00:33 -0800
Subject: RE: Safety Under the Car
...and still fall in the lake.
Jonathan Lane
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Wall [mailto:jwbn6@iopener.net]
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 3:40 PM
To: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Safety Under the Car
You can lead a horse to water.........................!!!
----- Original Message -----
From: Editorgary@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Safety Under the Car
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 17:46:18 EST
We've just finished editing a "Safety in Your Workshop" article for British
Car Magazine, which has raised my sensitivity a little bit, but I still
wonder about two recent pictures I've seen in various Healey club
publications:
One I'm looking at now is on the cover of the Oklahoma Austin-Healey Owners
Club newsletter. The picture is cute, on the face of it, until you start to
reconstruct the scene. John Thousand has his 100 jacked up with the wheel
removed. His head is positioned as carefully as a French executioner might
have done inside the fender well, with the back of his neck against the top
of the wheel well rim, and his head over the brake drum. What makes the
picture even more cute is that Chuck Anderson's five or so year old
grandson, in a hat suitable for an executioner, is crouching very near the
guillotine, er, jack handle. Since we've heard no reports of a headless
John
Thousand, we can only assume that Chuck's grandson didn't accidentally knock
or rotate the jack handle.
Where, oh where, were the jack stands? And, where oh where was the person
who should have been keeping a five year old away from a jacked-up car?
The other picture was of, I believe, Tom Mason under a car in a similarly
jack-stand deprived and wheel-deprived jacked-up state of affairs at, I
believe, conclave, in the Healey Marque.
Should I be worried that people are courting injury and death in our popular
press by working under cars resting only on jacks? Or am I just
unnecessarily
paranoid?
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 11:10:00 +1100
Subject: Re: Safety Under the Car
G'day Gary
I honestly don't think that you can be too safe when you are working under
any
car. Decent jack stands should be used at all times. The sight of our XJ6,
wheelless on the stands is quite unusual but very safe and secure to work
under. Incidently the mysterious air conditioning/wiper malady with the
Jaguar
is now fixed with a check on the earthing and fuses.
Recounting a number of incidents may be of assistance.
Before the XJ6 we had a Jaguar Mk2 saloon as a family car. I had driven the
front of the car up on ramps and closed the garage door. Errant children
entered the garage, touched something and the car started to roll off the
ramps backwards into the garage door leaving a neat impression of the back
of
a Mk2 in the door. I managed to get out from underneath. Moral: Be vary wary
of young kids when you're working under cars.
Over the years a couple of friends had pits dug in their garages. One
managed
to fall down his, break his leg with both his tibia and fibula sticking out
of
his leg through the skin. The other guy was overcome with petrol fumes and
collapsed at the bottom of the pit. It would have been very serious if his
wife had not come out to the garage to give him a cup of coffee. Moral!
Think
very seriously about the virtue of pits.
Keep safe and Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>>> Editorgary@aol.com 8/12/00 9:46:18 >>>
We've just finished editing a "Safety in Your Workshop" article for British
Car Magazine, which has raised my sensitivity a little bit, but I still
wonder about two recent pictures I've seen in various Healey club
publications:
One I'm looking at now is on the cover of the Oklahoma Austin-Healey Owners
Club newsletter. The picture is cute, on the face of it, until you start to
reconstruct the scene. John Thousand has his 100 jacked up with the wheel
removed. His head is positioned as carefully as a French executioner might
have done inside the fender well, with the back of his neck against the top
of the wheel well rim, and his head over the brake drum. What makes the
picture even more cute is that Chuck Anderson's five or so year old
grandson, in a hat suitable for an executioner, is crouching very near the
guillotine, er, jack handle. Since we've heard no reports of a headless
John
Thousand, we can only assume that Chuck's grandson didn't accidentally knock
or rotate the jack handle.
Where, oh where, were the jack stands? And, where oh where was the person
who should have been keeping a five year old away from a jacked-up car?
The other picture was of, I believe, Tom Mason under a car in a similarly
jack-stand deprived and wheel-deprived jacked-up state of affairs at, I
believe, conclave, in the Healey Marque.
Should I be worried that people are courting injury and death in our popular
press by working under cars resting only on jacks? Or am I just
unnecessarily
paranoid?
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 18:20:12 -0600
Subject: Judson Supercharger
Inquiry for a friend building a racer from an MGA. The engine has a
Judson Supercharger and they would like to get it checked out. Anyone
know of a person or place that can rebuild or refurbish one? George?
Ed? Peter?
TIA,
Dave
59 MGA 1500 (I pick up the rebuilt engine tomorrow, Ed.!!!)
59 :{)
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 20:21:36 -0500
Subject: Re: News Flash
As a small aside it is not too hard to produce the # sign so you can make things
look really professional.
(Alt 0163) produces the correct result. :-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Peter Dzwig wrote:
> But...the body on it was a four seater.....and the photos of it in the Brooks
> manual show it with a two seater (BN7) body, as didi the history documents
> although the chassis number was BN7. I asked to see the docs and the pictures
>of
> it as it was shipped to Oz had a two-seater body. I was not the only person to
> notice this. There was nothing in the history or the catalogue suggesting
>when,
> why or how it had been done.
>
> It was mentioned to the auctioneer by at least one person before the auction
> started.
>
> The sale was Brooks, Olympia, UK the price is sterling (not guineas!!)
>
> Peter Dzwig
>
> Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> > In a message dated 12/5/00 3:11:51 PM, david@bighealey.ltd.uk writes:
> >
> > << The 1961 Austin Healey 3000 MKI Ex Works competition Department Reg No
>UJB
> > 143 was sold at auction on 4th December for #48,000 (#54,000 with premium)
>>>
> >
> > I assume the currency was in pounds, not dollars; which would equate to US
> > Dollars 72,000 (?) . Where was the auction and do you know anything about
> > the buyer (UK, US, other country? -- private, dealer?)
> >
> > Cheers
> > Gary Anderswon
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 18:36:03 -0600
Subject: Re: Safety Under the Car
Hi Adnan
Love it "natural selection" you weren't thinking of the change in saurian forms
do to external selection forces - I know Healeys are dinosaurs but...<g>! I
agree with your response to Gary it's not paranoia but good old common sense.
Even with jack stands under either my BJ8 or Morgan I'm still uncomfortable; and
also I will leave the floor jack set-up either under the front cross-member or
rear axle with handle removed - and we don't have any little people.
Kind regards
Ed
"Merchant, Adnan" wrote:
> I believe the term is "natural selection". You're not paranoid.
>
> I'm so paranoid that I refuse to go under my (heavy) BMW 535i even when it's
> on jackstands. Somehow, I don't mind when the car has a proper frame but
> unibodies...well, sheet metal has been known to abruptly crush and give.
>
> And yes, my five year old son (affectionately nicknamed Wriggly) is banished
> inside the house when I work on the car, despite loud protests. Mom knows
> to keep a super-sharp eye on the little guy. In our house we speak of his
> location in terms of orbitals for electrons - we only have a probability for
> his location, never an exact one.
>
> I can't wait till he wants to work on the Healey :-)
>
> Adnan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 2:46 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Safety Under the Car
>
> >>Where, oh where, were the jack stands? And, where oh where was the person
>
> who should have been keeping a five year old away from a jacked-up car?
>
> The other picture was of, I believe, Tom Mason under a car in a similarly
> jack-stand deprived and wheel-deprived jacked-up state of affairs at, I
> believe, conclave, in the Healey Marque.
>
> Should I be worried that people are courting injury and death in our popular
>
> press by working under cars resting only on jacks? Or am I just
> unnecessarily
> paranoid?
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson<<
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 17:02:05 -0800
Subject: Re: Safety Under the Car
I'm a belt and suspenders man when it comes to getting under a car. I
like 6 ton U.S. made jack stands and try always to have a backup
support in addition to the jack stands -- a couple of wheels, or even
the jack itself in place somewhere out of the way -- just in case the
impossible happens. When changing a tire I strive to keep all of me
out from under the car, and succeed except for the moments when I am
pushing the tire onto the splines.
-Roland
On Thu, 7 Dec 2000 17:46:18 EST, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
:: We've just finished editing a "Safety in Your Workshop" article for British
:: Car Magazine, which has raised my sensitivity a little bit, but I still
:: wonder about two recent pictures I've seen in various Healey club
:: publications:[snip]
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 17:01:15 -0800
Subject: RE: Judson Supercharger
I can't remember the name, but, there is a guy who does everything
for Judsons. He was featured in Grassroots Motorsports a couple of months
back.
-----Original Message-----
From: David Woerpel [mailto:dwoerpel@wi.net]
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 4:20 PM
To: Austin Healey Digest; MG List; Spridget List
Subject: Judson Supercharger
Inquiry for a friend building a racer from an MGA. The engine has a
Judson Supercharger and they would like to get it checked out. Anyone
know of a person or place that can rebuild or refurbish one? George?
Ed? Peter?
TIA,
Dave
59 MGA 1500 (I pick up the rebuilt engine tomorrow, Ed.!!!)
59 :{)
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 20:44:11 EST
Subject: Hot wheels Austin Healeys
Since I've seen a few people ask.......................
There are Hot Wheels cars by Mattel in the 2000 series that are an Austin
Healey and a Mini, the AH is black over silver, a steeply racked windsheild,
a 100 grill, and a big engine sticking out of the hood. The Mini is yellow,
and I think the body might come off. There is also an Anglia panel van and
a Lotus Elise.
They would appear to not be available in most areas yet, although someone
reported just running into the Healey recently.
To see them, go to Ebay, search for Austin Healey and there are dozens for
sale, most with pictures.
good luck,
let us know if they start showing up in your areas.
I assume these get sold in other countries as well? If they start showing
up in decent numbers and our non US list friends want some, I'm sure we can
work something out!
Merry Christmas, Happy whatever!
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!)
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 22:10:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Safety Under the Car
"When changing a tire I strive to keep all of me
out from under the car, and succeed except for the moments when I am
pushing the tire onto the splines."
And even that can be dangerous. I have a large scar on the back of my left hand
resulting from a Healey sliding off a jack while I was trying to slide the wheel
off a rusted rear spline for a member who got a flat on a club outing. Nary a
jack
stand in sight.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
> I'm a belt and suspenders man when it comes to getting under a car. I
> like 6 ton U.S. made jack stands and try always to have a backup
> support in addition to the jack stands -- a couple of wheels, or even
> the jack itself in place somewhere out of the way -- just in case the
> impossible happens. When changing a tire I strive to keep all of me
> out from under the car, and succeed except for the moments when I am
> pushing the tire onto the splines.
>
> -Roland
>
> On Thu, 7 Dec 2000 17:46:18 EST, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> :: We've just finished editing a "Safety in Your Workshop" article for British
> :: Car Magazine, which has raised my sensitivity a little bit, but I still
> :: wonder about two recent pictures I've seen in various Healey club
> :: publications:[snip]
From CEWPlatt at aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 22:21:12 EST
Subject: BN1 Questions
Greetings,
I need help with a few items for my BN1,
1) Where does the battery ground attach to the body/chasis?
2) Does the rear lower shroud get the insulation tape to separate the alum
shroud from the steel trunk pan. Has anyone used anything other what is
offered by the healey suppliers? I think that I might use 1/8" closed cell
PVC foam fof a fraction of the price? Any thoughts?
3) Can anyone explain the functions of the compression springs on the
starter? The outboard spring is so stiff, it hardly serves a purpose. The
other, inboard spring, looks to be a return spring for disengagement, but is
very light and barely overcomes the force from the grease.
Best Regards,
Clay Platt
1954 BN1
From "Philip Ibbotson" <philipibbotson at hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2000 03:54:29 -0000
Subject: Cool new Web site (not Healey)
Check out www.familyescape.com
It could give us some cool new ideas on places to take our cars to...and
maybe we can get some events listed in their Special Events category.
Phil
'56 BN4
_____________________________________________________________________________________
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 00:17:57 EST
Subject: Re: K-Mart/Hot Wheels
The models are "Hot Wheels" by Mattel (I think). They have a large
collecttor following. Generally, they are about $1.00 U.S., and one website
says the healey model is already worth $10.00.
According to my collector friend (who found one for me), there are two color
schemes, Black over Grey and Black over Silver. They both have a blower
sticking out of the hood.
I'm on a business trip at through the end of this week, but will send the
digital photo of the model from my home office computer to all those that
requested it on Saturday.
Steve
BN 0.5 (Half way there)
In a message dated 12/7/00 2:43:45 AM Pacific Standard Time,
brshwrks@bellatlantic.net writes:
<< Hi all:
Would the gentleman that posted the message about the model Healeys at
K-Mart please provide more info; were they Matchbox cars or Hotwheels or
what category or manufacturer; appox. size? I don't know anything about
model cars, but looked in my local K-Mart but didn't see any Healeys.
Thanks for any help.
lance
54 bn1
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 21:36:59 -0800
Subject: Re: Safety Under the Car
Compliancy will maim or kill you too.
I know of a competent mechanic who died because his car rolled off ramps
while he was under it for some quick adjustment. He failed to block the wheels!
At 05:46 PM 12/7/00 -0500, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>We've just finished editing a "Safety in Your Workshop" article for British
>Car Magazine,....
>
>Should I be worried that people are courting injury and death in our popular
>press by working under cars resting only on jacks? Or am I just unnecessarily
>paranoid?
>
>Cheers
>Gary Anderson
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 07:06:09 -0800
Subject: RE: Judson Supercharger
I've seen him in Hemmings as well. I think he's in New York. Can't
remember his name either though.
Jonathan Lane
-----Original Message-----
From: Pagel, John [mailto:John.Pagel@imotors.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 5:01 PM
To: 'David Woerpel'; Austin Healey Digest; MG List; Spridget List
Subject: RE: Judson Supercharger
I can't remember the name, but, there is a guy who does everything
for Judsons. He was featured in Grassroots Motorsports a couple of months
back.
-----Original Message-----
From: David Woerpel [mailto:dwoerpel@wi.net]
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 4:20 PM
To: Austin Healey Digest; MG List; Spridget List
Subject: Judson Supercharger
Inquiry for a friend building a racer from an MGA. The engine has a
Judson Supercharger and they would like to get it checked out. Anyone
know of a person or place that can rebuild or refurbish one? George?
Ed? Peter?
TIA,
Dave
59 MGA 1500 (I pick up the rebuilt engine tomorrow, Ed.!!!)
59 :{)
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 07:31:37 -0800
Subject: RE: K-Mart/Hot Wheels
Or if you want to go to the source...
http://www.hotwheels.com/collectors/mainline2000/index.asp?toy_no=24391&from
rating=1&series=first
Still hoping for one in my stocking...
Brad
'55 Hundred
BN1 #226796
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of SMickel950@aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 9:18 PM
> To: brshwrks@bellatlantic.net; Healey E-mail list
> Subject: Re: K-Mart/Hot Wheels
>
>
>
> The models are "Hot Wheels" by Mattel (I think). They have a large
> collecttor following. Generally, they are about $1.00 U.S., and
> one website
> says the healey model is already worth $10.00.
>
> According to my collector friend (who found one for me), there
> are two color
> schemes, Black over Grey and Black over Silver. They both have a blower
> sticking out of the hood.
>
> I'm on a business trip at through the end of this week, but will send the
> digital photo of the model from my home office computer to all those that
> requested it on Saturday.
>
> Steve
> BN 0.5 (Half way there)
>
>
>
>
> In a message dated 12/7/00 2:43:45 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> brshwrks@bellatlantic.net writes:
>
> << Hi all:
> Would the gentleman that posted the message about the model Healeys at
> K-Mart please provide more info; were they Matchbox cars or Hotwheels or
> what category or manufacturer; appox. size? I don't know anything about
> model cars, but looked in my local K-Mart but didn't see any Healeys.
> Thanks for any help.
> lance
> 54 bn1
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 11:52:21 EST
Subject: Re: Safety Under the Car
Another good old common sense mechanic's trick I hadn't remembered or would
have put in our article.
When you remove the wheels, put them UNDER the car. That way if everything
fails, you still have about five inches of clearance, which is enough to make
you uncomfortable, but keep from crushing things like chests, legs, arms, or
skulls.
Be safe under there.
Cheers
gary
In a message dated 12/7/00 4:39:07 PM, edriver@sk.sympatico.ca writes:
<< it's not paranoia but good old common sense.
Even with jack stands under either my BJ8 or Morgan I'm still uncomfortable;
and
also I will leave the floor jack set-up either under the front cross-member or
rear axle with handle removed - and we don't have any little people.
Kind regards
Ed >>
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2000 09:22:36 -0800
Subject: Original Factory 100-M for sale
My buddy Bill is selling his 100-M. This is too bad for our club as this is the
finest example of an original M I have ever seen. I tried to talk him out of it
but hes ready to move on, and out of Healeys. We restored our cars together so
I know a lot about it and agreed to mention it on this list since hes not on
it. I get no compensation for this except, hopefully, the knowledge that its
going to a good home of someone who appreciates the rarity of this car. Here
goes:
1956 Austin Healey 100-M. Absolutely original, not one of the reproductions or
outright fakes that are out there. This is verified by the Heritage
certificate, the original owner, and many of the expert on this list. It was
originally bought in San Diego and has never left, it even has its original
cold air box (extremely rare) Around 200 miles since a ground up nut & bolt
restoration. No expense was spared on this car it has the best of everything,
and could be made into a concore car with a little work. It has no modern
components except one 12V battery, seat belts, and stainless hardware. Its
painted in the original Florida Green over Old English White (also a rare
combination) with an all black leather interior. It has no top.
It has a web page:
http://www.sdhealey.org/bill/
Go look at this page even if your not looking to buy a car. Bill's contact
information is on the page or Ill gladly answer any questions I can.
Brian Mix
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 13:09:07 -0500
Subject: Re: alternators
Not quite "just fine" depending on why your reversed rotation. If you
reversed the direction of rotation in hopes on getting the polarity
reversed, it won't happen. The alternator doesn't care which way its
rotating, the diodes determine the polarity. You may also have to change
the internal voltage regulator if you want to change polarity.
---
Lee Mairs
'62 Mk II Tri-carb
---
I don't suffer from stress, I'm a carrier.
--Dilbert's advice for 1999
> -> All of this talk of starters has we wondering what happens if you
> -> change the rotation of an alternator. Does the polarity change?
>
> It'll work just fine.
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 22:48:05 -0800
Subject: Re: Safety Under the Car
While on this subject, one further thought: there are times when you will jack
the
car up and not work under it. Nonetheless, for your general safety (and for the
safety of the car), pull out the jack handle so you don't trip over it. (Also
important if you use the jack as back up for the stands.) John Trifari 1955
BN1/1965 BJ8
john spaur wrote:
> Compliancy will maim or kill you too.
> I know of a competent mechanic who died because his car rolled off ramps
> while he was under it for some quick adjustment. He failed to block the
>wheels!
>
> At 05:46 PM 12/7/00 -0500, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> >We've just finished editing a "Safety in Your Workshop" article for British
> >Car Magazine,....
> >
> >Should I be worried that people are courting injury and death in our popular
> >press by working under cars resting only on jacks? Or am I just unnecessarily
> >paranoid?
> >
> >Cheers
> >Gary Anderson
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 07:10:45 -0000
Subject: Re News Flash
I reply to the list for all parties who contacted me for more information
on the Austin Healey Works Rally car UJB 143 that was sold at auction at
Olympia in London UK.
The price was in UK Pounds Sterling and not US Dollars. The condition
looked to be reasnonable. I have no idea what so ever who the buyer was so
I am unable to furnish any more details.
Here in the UK we have almost one major auction every week and up to two
hundred lots of Classic and Thouroughbred cars are up for auction at any
one time, so details are usually hard to come by.
Even today I have details for a World War II Supermarine 'Spitfire' that is
up for auction and two days ago I attended another auction of Classic and
Vintage vehicles. At this event there were 150 choice lots sold ranging
from 300 UK Pounds Sterling to 65,000 UK Pounds Sterling for a Vintage
Bentley. Even half an engine for a Bentley brought 5,000 UK Pounds. A 1966
BJ8 sold for 15,000 UK Pounds and a BN1 for the same.
Regards
David
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
From "Dave BOWERS" <BOWERSDA at uvsc.edu>
Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2000 12:31:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Original Factory 100-M for sale
Thanks for the boost. My 56 BN2 isn't a factory 'M' but I have been
considering upgrading to 'M' specs. One big hang-up (besides cash)
has been making a final decision on color. It was originally Florida
Green all over. Although I still haven't decided on whether to two-tone
it or not, The picts of Bill's Healey have made up my mind to retain the
original Florida Green. I hadn't seen any good examples of that color
before, but I must say, That DO look good...
I have copied the picts for reference and to remind myself. Once again,
Thanks...
Dave B^)
56 BN2 - 1 step closer
>>> Brian Mix <brianmix@home.com> 12/8/00 10:22:36 AM >>>
<<snip>>
1956 Austin Healey 100-M. Absolutely original, not one of the reproductions
It has a web page:
http://www.sdhealey.org/bill/
<<snip>>
Brian Mix
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 15:09:37 EST
Subject: English car interest was News Flash
In a message dated 12/8/00 11:14:46 AM, david@bighealey.ltd.uk writes:
<< Here in the UK we have almost one major auction every week and up to two
hundred lots of Classic and Thouroughbred cars are up for auction at any
one time, so details are usually hard to come by. >>
I have never have been able to figure out how/why there is so much buying and
selling of cars in the United Kingdom. By way of scale, the entire Great
Britain is about the same population and sort of the same size as California.
We certainly don't have two hundred lots coming up for sale every week in
the State. Similarly, the UK very generously supports three mainstream
vintage car magazines (approx. million circ each) and hundreds of
marque-specific smaller car magazines, whereas in the United States, we have
only a few classic car magazines and none of those has a circulation of more
than 50,000.
Similarly, a BIG car meet here might have 400 cars, where in the UK a
multi-marque meet might have 2000 cars.
Wassup with that?
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
www.britishcar.com
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2000 17:38:26 -0700
Subject: Re: alternators
Much easier to change polarity on the car than the alternator.
Bill Lawrence
"Lee S. Mairs" wrote:
> Not quite "just fine" depending on why your reversed rotation. If you
> reversed the direction of rotation in hopes on getting the polarity
> reversed, it won't happen. The alternator doesn't care which way its
> rotating, the diodes determine the polarity. You may also have to change
> the internal voltage regulator if you want to change polarity.
> ---
> Lee Mairs
> '62 Mk II Tri-carb
> ---
> I don't suffer from stress, I'm a carrier.
> --Dilbert's advice for 1999
>
> > -> All of this talk of starters has we wondering what happens if you
> > -> change the rotation of an alternator. Does the polarity change?
> >
> > It'll work just fine.
From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2000 16:36:56 -0800
Subject: Dashboard vinyl
Hi all,
Gee its been a while since I posted.
Anyway, I'm rebuilding the dash in my BJ8, and have to recover the
center section in vinyl. My question is, should it be a black vinyl, or
should it match the rest of the interior?
Thanks for any help.
Jerry Rude
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2000 19:15:36 -0600
Subject: Re: Dashboard vinyl
Hi Jerry
My BJ8 has a blue interior and the top of the "dashboard" is blue as well. I
note in Clausager (1990) the seat and dash tops match - my Anderson and
Moment is out on loan - maybe Gary will comment.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Jerry Rude wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Gee its been a while since I posted.
>
> Anyway, I'm rebuilding the dash in my BJ8, and have to recover the
> center section in vinyl. My question is, should it be a black vinyl, or
> should it match the rest of the interior?
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> Jerry Rude
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 20:42:19 -0500
Subject: Vote counts - no LBC
I ask forgiveness in advance for transgressing, but for those of you
who received small arms training at gov't expense, as I did, and all
others who care, I recommend the following:
http://www.countthemilitary.com/root/A374.cfm
"The site is sponsored by the United States Justice
Foundation a non-profit legal foundation that's suing the
Florida Elections Commission to make sure military votes
are properly counted. They're also trying to put pressure
on the House and Senate Armed Forces Committees to fully
investigate why and how many military ballots were tossed
out of the Florida Election."
Ed A
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2000 22:32:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Dashboard vinyl
Black. Restoration Guide pg 167 column 3 Para 2 Sentance 3 ;-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
"M.E.&E.A. Driver" wrote:
> Hi Jerry
>
> My BJ8 has a blue interior and the top of the "dashboard" is blue as well. I
> note in Clausager (1990) the seat and dash tops match - my Anderson and
> Moment is out on loan - maybe Gary will comment.
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon
>
> Jerry Rude wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > Gee its been a while since I posted.
> >
> > Anyway, I'm rebuilding the dash in my BJ8, and have to recover the
> > center section in vinyl. My question is, should it be a black vinyl, or
> > should it match the rest of the interior?
> >
> > Thanks for any help.
> >
> > Jerry Rude
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 21:36:22 EST
Subject: Re: Dashboard vinyl
In a message dated 12/8/00 5:23:30 PM, edriver@sk.sympatico.ca writes:
<<
Hi Jerry
My BJ8 has a blue interior and the top of the "dashboard" is blue as well. I
note in Clausager (1990) the seat and dash tops match - my Anderson and
Moment is out on loan - maybe Gary will comment. >>
Off the top of my head, memory says that the crash pad and door top pads on
the BJ8 are both black. They were color-keyed to the interior on the BJ7 but
not on the BJ8.
Cheers
gary
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 19:49:45 +0000
Subject: Re: Rear axle serial numbers
Steve
>
>This raises the question: is the reason the middle group certs don't
>provide a rear axle serial number because (A) the axles are not serialized,
In my view, for what it is worth, all axles would have had a serial
number. When I was on site at BMC Service in the early 1960s all major
units were controlled by their serial numbers. Change notes would use
this way of identifing units. Warranty claims would also be progressed
this way and so would any subsequent quality "drains up". I suspect that
Abingdon got a little lazy or BMIHT has thought it not worth repeating
this data. As I say this is my opinion. I do not have any evidence
available to support it.
>or (B) the axles (or some of them) may be serialized but the data was not
>recorded for some reason during production and is not available at BMIHT?
>[If (A), then that would lead to the question of why the axles were
>serialized in the beginning, then not, then were again at the end, but that
>is not my immediate question].
>
>To cut to the chase: does anyone out there have a rear axle with a serial
>number, but whose BMIHT certificate doesn't specify the number?
>
>Thanks for the help, and Happy Healeydays!
>
>Steve Byers
>HBJ8L/36666
>BJ8 Registry
>Havelock, NC
--
John Harper
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Dec 2000 07:58:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear axle serial numbers
Thanks for the reply, John -
That may be. All I can say is that I have looked all over my rear axle with
a light and a magnifying glass looking for a number and I can't find one.
The parts manual shows the location as on the left rear axle tube, on the
rear vertical surface just under the bracket for the brake line. I can see
no evidence of any number at all there. I have searched elsewhere on the
axle housing, but so far have not seen anything. Since my certificate does
not give a number, I thought it must be because there WAS no number.
However, I have heard from one person who said his rear axle does have a
serial number, but it is not given on the certificate. It would make sense
that they are all serialized, if any of them are. Guess we just need more
examples to draw definite conclusions. I don't know if I mentioned it
before, but I have TWO certificates for HBJ8L/25447. The first, dated 31
October 1983, has nothing for "Other Numbers". The second, dated 20
September 1990, identifies the gearbox, rear axle, and key numbers here.
Happy Healeydays!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: John Harper <john@jharper.demon.co.uk>
To: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, December 09, 2000 3:21 AM
Subject: Re: Rear axle serial numbers
>In my view, for what it is worth, all axles would have had a serial
>number. When I was on site at BMC Service in the early 1960s all major
>units were controlled by their serial numbers. Change notes would use
>this way of identifing units. Warranty claims would also be progressed
>this way and so would any subsequent quality "drains up". I suspect that
>Abingdon got a little lazy or BMIHT has thought it not worth repeating
>this data. As I say this is my opinion. I do not have any evidence
>available to support it.
>
>>or (B) the axles (or some of them) may be serialized but the data was not
>>recorded for some reason during production and is not available at BMIHT?
>>[If (A), then that would lead to the question of why the axles were
>>serialized in the beginning, then not, then were again at the end, but
that
>>is not my immediate question].
>>
>>To cut to the chase: does anyone out there have a rear axle with a serial
>>number, but whose BMIHT certificate doesn't specify the number?
>>
>>Thanks for the help, and Happy Healeydays!
>>
>>Steve Byers
>>HBJ8L/36666
>>BJ8 Registry
>>Havelock, NC
>
>--
>John Harper
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sat, 9 Dec 2000 09:22:33 EST
Subject: Re: Dashboard vinyl
In a message dated 12/08/2000 7:37:53 PM Mountain Standard Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<<
Off the top of my head, memory says that the crash pad and door top pads on
the BJ8 are both black. >>
Correct. And the dash top material was ambla, the same soft vinyl used on the
seats.
Roger
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 09 Dec 2000 09:29:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Dashboard vinyl
Sorry mis-understood the original post. The center section of the dash
should be the interior colour, the crash pad should be black.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Jerry Rude wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Gee its been a while since I posted.
>
> Anyway, I'm rebuilding the dash in my BJ8, and have to recover the
> center section in vinyl. My question is, should it be a black vinyl, or
> should it match the rest of the interior?
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> Jerry Rude
From "Dennis O'Connor" <boyo at homeacres.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Dec 2000 07:29:56 -0800
Subject: RE: Safety Under the Car
Yup, kids and cars don't mix! My first Austin-Healey experience was at the
ripe old age of 3, sitting in the passenger seat with nobody else in the car.
I somehow managed to release the e-brake and the car started rolling down my
parents steep driveway - if not for my 5 year old brother jumping in and
pulling the brake, that would've been my last Austin-Healey experience!
FWIW, leaving in about 3 minutes to go pick up a "new" 3000 Mk III for dad to
replace the one he got rid of shortly after that ride down the hill. I sure
enjoy this mailing list, hope to see y'all out on the road.
-Boyo (aka Dennis)
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Dec 2000 07:36:39 -0800
Subject: Re: Rear axle serial numbers
Yes, I do have an axle number and it is not on my certificate. I
think I brought up this same thread over a year ago and it seemed many
had axle numbers.
Mark Fawcett
----- Original Message -----
From: John Harper <john@jharper.demon.co.uk>
To: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2000 11:49 AM
Subject: Re: Rear axle serial numbers
>
> Steve
> >
> >This raises the question: is the reason the middle group certs
don't
> >provide a rear axle serial number because (A) the axles are not
serialized,
>
> In my view, for what it is worth, all axles would have had a serial
> number. When I was on site at BMC Service in the early 1960s all
major
> units were controlled by their serial numbers. Change notes would
use
> this way of identifing units. Warranty claims would also be
progressed
> this way and so would any subsequent quality "drains up". I suspect
that
> Abingdon got a little lazy or BMIHT has thought it not worth
repeating
> this data. As I say this is my opinion. I do not have any evidence
> available to support it.
>
> >or (B) the axles (or some of them) may be serialized but the data
was not
> >recorded for some reason during production and is not available at
BMIHT?
> >[If (A), then that would lead to the question of why the axles were
> >serialized in the beginning, then not, then were again at the end,
but that
> >is not my immediate question].
> >
> >To cut to the chase: does anyone out there have a rear axle with a
serial
> >number, but whose BMIHT certificate doesn't specify the number?
> >
> >Thanks for the help, and Happy Healeydays!
> >
> >Steve Byers
> >HBJ8L/36666
> >BJ8 Registry
> >Havelock, NC
>
> --
> John Harper
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sat, 9 Dec 2000 10:55:27 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 Questions
In a message dated 12/7/00 7:23:20 PM, CEWPlatt@aol.com writes:
<<
Greetings,
I need help with a few items for my BN1,
1) Where does the battery ground attach to the body/chasis?
There is a small tab on the left framerail near the rear shock that has a
5/16 bsf nut welded to it. The ground cable goes from there to the battery
switch. Then there is a cable that goes from the switch to the ground
terminal on the battery. Check the connections on the battery switch that
they are correst or when you turn off the switch it will not work correctly.
2) Does the rear lower shroud get the insulation tape to separate the alum
shroud from the steel trunk pan. Has anyone used anything other what is
offered by the healey suppliers? I think that I might use 1/8" closed cell
PVC foam fof a fraction of the price? Any thoughts?
When we are installing the rear shroud the rear shroud is riveted to the
trunk floor pan securly. After the car is painted we go around and seal seam
all of the joints between the floor pan and the frame, the trunk floor and
the cockpit floors.
3) Can anyone explain the functions of the compression springs on the
starter? The outboard spring is so stiff, it hardly serves a purpose. The
other, inboard spring, looks to be a return spring for disengagement, but is
very light and barely overcomes the force from the grease.
The small spring is there to hold the drive gear out of the ring gear while
the engine is running. There should be no grease on the starter bendix gear
only a light amount of oil. The large spring helps the starter engage with
ring gear.
David Nock
From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 09 Dec 2000 14:19:51 -0800
Subject: Re: Dashboard vinyl
Thanks Mike, now I've got to make a color scheme decision, which I was hoping
to avoid for awhile.......drat.
Thanks again, and to all others who responded. Jerry
Krazy Kiwi wrote:
> Sorry mis-understood the original post. The center section of the dash
> should be the interior colour, the crash pad should be black.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
>
> www.precisionsportscar.com
> Jerry Rude wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > Gee its been a while since I posted.
> >
> > Anyway, I'm rebuilding the dash in my BJ8, and have to recover the
> > center section in vinyl. My question is, should it be a black vinyl, or
> > should it match the rest of the interior?
> >
> > Thanks for any help.
> >
> > Jerry Rude
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Sat, 09 Dec 2000 15:55:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Safety Under the Car
Now THAT'S a Christmas present. Can I get you to talk to my sons?
Bill Lawrence
Dennis O'Connor wrote:
> Yup, kids and cars don't mix! My first Austin-Healey experience was at the
> ripe old age of 3, sitting in the passenger seat with nobody else in the car.
> I somehow managed to release the e-brake and the car started rolling down my
> parents steep driveway - if not for my 5 year old brother jumping in and
> pulling the brake, that would've been my last Austin-Healey experience!
>
> FWIW, leaving in about 3 minutes to go pick up a "new" 3000 Mk III for dad to
> replace the one he got rid of shortly after that ride down the hill. I sure
> enjoy this mailing list, hope to see y'all out on the road.
>
> -Boyo (aka Dennis)
From "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Dec 2000 19:27:10 -0500
Subject: Re: K-Mart
I found five of them at Bradlees -- a Target type of store in the East. They
are Hot Wheels labelled with a "3+" at the top right corner and above the
car itself "2000 First Editions #32 of 38 cars"
The car itself is a Healey 100 with what appears to be a V-8 engine with a
supercharger. In order to find them you have to go completely through the
Hot Weels display as they are all mixed in. To find them quickly, It is the
only car in the display that is black over silver.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ formerly Las Vegas - (what one must do to keep peace in the
family)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 5:41 AM
Subject: K-Mart
>
> Hi all:
> Would the gentleman that posted the message about the model Healeys at
> K-Mart please provide more info; were they Matchbox cars or Hotwheels or
> what category or manufacturer; appox. size? I don't know anything about
> model cars, but looked in my local K-Mart but didn't see any Healeys.
> Thanks for any help.
> lance
> 54 bn1
From Steve Dupus <stevsgarage at yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Dec 2000 16:35:19 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Hotwheels
I collect Matchbox toys, only the older English made models, however I have
seen the hotwheels Healey you are refering to.If you want a first edition you
will have to buy from a specialty shop or a collector probably( either on line
or off). How ever the main running is/or soon will be anywhere Hotwheels are
sold, Walmart, Kmart ect. Anouther point of intrest is that Matchbox is also
owned by Matel(Hotwheels) and often come out with the same cars different
colors in a year or two.
From "Mike & Kerry Gigante" <mikeg at vicnet.net.au>
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 19:42:03 +1100
Subject: more on UBJ
I spoke to one of the people at The Healey Factory today, and mentioned the
2/4seat issue that was raised on this list.
He was quite emphatic that that this was at the request of the owner. The car
was in "serious" need of a restoration and while this was being done, the 4
seater panels were
grafted onto the car at the owner's request. All the numbers were correct and
the car was/is confirmed as the real UBJ.
It would then appear the the new owner could return it back to its original
layout if he/she wanted to with confidence that
there is no doubt about its history.
Mike
From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 06:49:46 -0500
Subject: Drivers Handbook
Dear Listers:
I would like to trade a blue drivers handbook A.H. 3000 Mk.111 Sports
convertible series BJ8 original copy with some water damage to the
pages, and would consider the book to be in good to very good condition
but certainly not pristine .for a drivers hand book for a BN-4. Anyone
interested please contact me off line.
Thanks........ Dennis Broughel BN-4
brougheldp@earthlinl.net
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 09:00:33 EST
Subject: Virus spreading in the Healey Community
This morning I received several messages from different users all containing
a file attached called "Navidad.exe". (None were from a team.net list)
It looks like a virus that goes into the address book and sends out emails to
those listed. The reason I am posting is because many of the people listed as
receiving the email all had some connection to the Internet Sports Car World.
I recognized names from both the Healey and MG lists. And it looks like this
virus is spreading quickly.
Don't open the file!!!
Maybe one of our computer experts can explain this virus for us.
Thanks,
James Werner
Louisville, KY
From bn1 at flashcom.net
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 06:29:49 -0800
Subject: Re: Virus spreading in the Healey Community
Go to:
http://www.sarc.com/avcenter/venc/data/w32.navidad.html
Bill Barnett
BN1
Jwhlyadv@aol.com wrote:
> This morning I received several messages from different users all containing
> a file attached called "Navidad.exe". (None were from a team.net list)
>
> It looks like a virus that goes into the address book and sends out emails to
> those listed. The reason I am posting is because many of the people listed as
> receiving the email all had some connection to the Internet Sports Car World.
> I recognized names from both the Healey and MG lists. And it looks like this
> virus is spreading quickly.
>
> Don't open the file!!!
>
> Maybe one of our computer experts can explain this virus for us.
>
> Thanks,
>
> James Werner
> Louisville, KY
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 09:55:12 EST
Subject: Re: Virus spreading in the Healey Community
In a message dated 12/10/00 6:03:16 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Jwhlyadv@aol.com writes:
<< This morning I received several messages from different users all
containing
a file attached called "Navidad.exe". (None were from a team.net list)
It looks like a virus that goes into the address book and sends out emails
to
those listed. The reason I am posting is because many of the people listed
as
receiving the email all had some connection to the Internet Sports Car
World.
I recognized names from both the Healey and MG lists. And it looks like this
virus is spreading quickly.
Don't open the file!!! >>
Hi All
I will concur that this virus is a nasty bugger. It put my computer down for
about a week! It does in fact access the address book and send itself out to
all those listed. This is what fooled me since it came from a bunch of my
old Marine Corps Pilot buddies from whom I get mail and attachments all of
the time. According to my neighbor and good friend who works for "Gateway"
this is on of the worst ones that she has seen. It really had her stumped
for a couple of days, but I am now back up and running however I did loose
everything on the computer.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 10:46:18 EST
Subject: Re: Computer Virus Alert!
Thanks Rod!
Luckily I did not get this virus but those who did receive the email are
pretty well connected in the Healey World. So far I have received six
versions of the email. The email contains a list of all the people it was
sent to and there is a definite Healey trend.
Information about the virus is listed below.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Greetings, Jwhlyadv@aol.com
I thought you would be interested in knowing about this computer virus...
Virus Name: W32/Navidad@M
Virus Characteristics:
Update November 29, 2000:
The 4109 DAT update will detect the
"Emanuel.exe" variant as W32/Navidad.e@M See the VARIANTS section of this
description for more details.
he 4107 DAT update contains instructions for engine v4.1.10 to remove the
registry entry created by this Internet worm. VirusScan may identify this
threat as a Trojan due to the methods used by the Engine and DATS to
terminate the running task.
f you are unable to run .EXE files as a result of a Navidad infection,
follow the removal instructions on this page or download this <A
href="http://download.nai.com/products/MCAFEE-AVERT/stand_alone/undo.reg";>
UNDO.REG file and open it.
his is an Internet worm which uses MAPI Outlook to spread. It will be
received by email as a response to a sent email message to an infected
user, with the attachment NAVIDAD.EXE.
hen run, this worm displays a dialog box entitled, "Error" which reads
"UI". A blue eye icon appears in the system tray next to the clock in the
lower right corner of the screen, and a copy of the trojan is saved to the
file winsvrc.vxd in the WINDOWS SYSTEM directory. The following
registry key values are created:
KCU\SOFTWARE\Navidad
KLM\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run\
Win32BaseServiceMOD=
C:\WINDOWS\SYSTEM\winsvrc.exe
KCR\exefile\shell\open\command\
(default)=C:\WINDOWS\SYSTEM\winsvrc.exe
"%1" %*
KLM\Software\CLASSES\exefile\shell\open\command\
(default)=C:\WINDOWS\S
YSTEM\winsvrc.exe "%1" %*
n the last 2 entries above, the previous value was
%1" %*
s these registry values use the incorrect file extension, an error message
is displayed when attempting to launch any .EXE file.
his problem can be recovered by opening an MS-DOS prompt and going into
the Windows directory and then copying REGEDIT.EXE as REGEDIT.COM. You can
then run REGEDIT from the START menu and browse to the registry path to
remove the invalid entry mentioned above.
his worm can be terminated on a system - when Navidad is running, click on
the eye in the system tray. When the dialog box with the big button
labeled don't press me (sic) appears, press the little close window button
in the top right corner (marked X)
nother message box pops up , pressing OK on this message box makes the
worm exit - the eye disappears and the program terminates.
To check your system for this virus, and to learn how to protect yourself
from computer viruses, visit the McAfee PC Clinic at
http://clinic.mcafee.com.
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 16:24:30 +0000
Subject: Re: more on UBJ
Mike, Kerry,
So the work done by The Healey Factory.
The trouble is that the Brooks catalogue didn't say this and nor did the
documentation offered by Brooks, which I went through, appear to present an
appropriate bill.
I want to make it clear that I was not suggesting that the car was not what it
claimed to be, rather that it was odd that there was no explanation as to why
it
should be a four-seater when the works cars (which this was being sold as an
example of) were two-seaters.
Peter Dzwig
Mike & Kerry Gigante wrote:
> I spoke to one of the people at The Healey Factory today, and mentioned the
> 2/4seat issue that was raised on this list.
>
> He was quite emphatic that that this was at the request of the owner. The car
> was in "serious" need of a restoration and while this was being done, the 4
> seater panels were
> grafted onto the car at the owner's request. All the numbers were correct and
> the car was/is confirmed as the real UBJ.
>
> It would then appear the the new owner could return it back to its original
> layout if he/she wanted to with confidence that
> there is no doubt about its history.
>
> Mike
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 10:22:32 -0600
Subject: ntahc xmas party -- TODAY
The 21st consecutive infamous HOLIDAY FOR HEALEYS EXTRAVAGANZA is being held
today in ( get this ) LUCAS, TX.
I just returned from running the BN6 through the car wash. If you get your
neck at just the right angle you can get your teeth brushed as a bonus. I
should have worn my poncho.
The weather report for the Dallas environs today is a sunny, lovely 69.
Hey Don, the Prez, is that AH driving club going to have any of those virtual
viewers where the majority of the board and delegates of the AHCA could
experience a Healey driving sensation rather than spending all of their time
concentrating on Roberts Rules of Order ?
happy healeying,
jerry wall
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 16:35:49 -0000
Subject: Carb questions.
Just trying to learn a thing or two....
Stripping a carb (HD6) down to it's barest essentials shows just
what a tiny drilling there is that goes up to the so-called
"ignition pipe" which goes around to the advance\retard on the
distributor. Exactly what is the function of this setup? It's
dangerous to rationalize in these circs, but the hole seems small
and precise and surely it cannot permit the movement of much
pressure?? And the internals of the distributor are fairly lumpy
and brutish....there seems to be an inherent mismatch here.
Which leads me on to: if I have whipped out the points and put in
electronics, is this all redundant anyhow?
And, do you all have the little filters in the float lids of your
HD carbs?? Mine came without and having an inline filter just
short of the first carb, I guess I won't need them anyhow. And
they look fairly useless per the book. But, anyway, do you have
them?
Simon Lachlan
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 13:19:27 EST
Subject: no archive Filardi E mail me.
Ron Filardi please e mail me, I have a question.
NO ARCHIVE
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!)
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.
From "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 11:28:52 -0800
Subject: Einstein's Time and Money Axiom
Hi Bill, Joe, List:
You both raise most valuable points. I do not mind being told that I need
more tools and time to work on my Healey. I also do not mind people telling
me that I spend too much money on my car. Because all the above is true.
But being a student of science I will share a discovery with you.
I will share with you Einstein's time and money axiom, T=MC**2. It goes like
this:
If you have the time, you are likely unemployed therefore have little money.
If you have the money you are likely employed and therefore have little
time.
Therefore the conditions of having both time and money are unlikely to exist
in the same universe.
I call this "Einstein's Time and Money Axiom" because you don't have to be
Einstein to figure it out.
:-)
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Smathers" <healey27@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <ynotink@qwest.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2000 7:21 PM
Subject: Re: AH3000 III transmission and Smitty Toyota 5speedconversion.
>
> Bill,
>
> I don't want to be so smart ( or an ass ),but some of us are not
> mechanically inclined. We love these cars as much as you do, but we do not
> have the ability to perform the simple repairs such as transmission
repair.
> Lord knows, I would love to be able to pull the transmission, set the
> timing or repair the distributor, but I am not able to do so. Thankfully I
> have other talents that allows me to pay others to perform these
functions.
> I have had a Healey for nearly 30 years and just now have the time to
learn
> how to fix certain problems, but I will never be a good mechanic. I don't
> have the aptitude. I wish I did, but I don't and I know it. I have spent
> many hours " bothering my current mechanic " with questions on why and how
> does this work. I will continue to do this as I love this car and want to
> know how it works and how to repair. Please be a little less demanding to
> us who love our Healey's as much as you do.
>
> Best Regards, Joe
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 20:55:18 +0100
Subject: SV: Einstein's Time and Money Axiom
> But being a student of science I will share a discovery with you.
> I will share with you Einstein's time and money axiom, T=MC**2. It goes like
> this:
> If you have the time, you are likely unemployed therefore have little money.
> If you have the money you are likely employed and therefore have little
> time.
> Therefore the conditions of having both time and money are unlikely to exist
> in the same universe.
> I call this "Einstein's Time and Money Axiom" because you don't have to be
> Einstein to figure it out.
> :-)
> Best Regards,
> Jim LeBlanc
Uhmm.. well...... being trained in maths.. something surely must be wrong with
that equation?????
Sounds more like T= 1/M to me.....
T=Time
M=Money
no money gives all the time in the world...... wheras all the money in the
world would give virtually no time....
;-)
E.Larssen 60BT7... being an Engineer.
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 08:42:29 +0000
Subject: BN1 Questions
>1) Where does the battery ground attach to the body/chasis?
>
>There is a small tab on the left framerail near the rear shock that has a
>5/16 bsf nut welded to it.
Even on an early BN1 I think that you will find that this thread was
UNF. As a simple rule if a part such as engine, gearbox, rear axle
suspension etc came from an Austin Saloon the threads would be BSF. If
the part was new to Austin Healey it was normally UNF. There were
exceptions such as BA used on such items as Lucas connections but the
general rule stands up in over 95% of the cases.
> The ground cable goes from there to the battery
>switch. Then there is a cable that goes from the switch to the ground
>terminal on the battery. Check the connections on the battery switch that
>they are correst or when you turn off the switch it will not work correctly.
>
>
>
>3) Can anyone explain the functions of the compression springs on the
>starter? The outboard spring is so stiff, it hardly serves a purpose. The
>other, inboard spring, looks to be a return spring for disengagement, but is
>very light and barely overcomes the force from the grease.
>
>The small spring is there to hold the drive gear out of the ring gear while
>the engine is running. There should be no grease on the starter bendix gear
>only a light amount of oil. The large spring helps the starter engage with
>ring gear.
I would not agree here. I believe that the large spring is there to
adsorb the shock of the pinion gear being thrown out of mesh when the
engine fires.
All the best
--
John Harper
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 12:45:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Superchargers
Recently someone asked about superchargers and sources of information.
In the magazine "Grassroots Motorsports" [June 2000 issue I believe]
Carl Heideman had an article about Judson superchargers. In the
article he referenced George Folchi as a Judson expert. Mr. Folchi
buys, sells, restores and sells parts for Judsons. He can be reached
at:
58 Merryall Road, New Milford, CT 06776
860.355.2807
For those interested in Shorrock supercharging I suggest Jon Peck at
British Classic Sports Cars. If you go to his web site you will find
a good article that can be downloaded. Check out
http://www.bcsc.co.uk
In my research, I have yet to find anyone who successfully supercharged
a big healey.
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
__________________________________________________
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 16:02:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Einstein's Time and Money Axiom
I've always heard that Time = Money and as everyone knows, Knowledge =
Power.
As an engineer myself, I know that Power = Work divided by Time
After applying some simple algebra to the above equations, I've discovered
that a new understanding can be reached of the secret to wealth and success.
It goes like this.......
Substituting algebraic equations for the bits of wisdom above, we get:
(1) K = P
(2) T = M
(3) P = W/T
Now, do a few simple substitutions:
Put W/T in for P in equation (1), which yields:
(4) K = W/T
Put M in for T into equation (4), which yields:
(5) K = W/M
Now we've got something. Expanding back into English, we get:
Knowledge equals Work divided by Money.
What this MEANS is that:
1. The More You Know, the More Work You Do, and
2. The More You Know, the Less Money You Make.
Solving for Money, we get:
(6) M = W/K
Money equals Work divided by Knowledge.
>From equation (6) we see that Money approaches infinity as Knowledge
approaches 0, regardless of the Work done.
What THIS MEANS is:
The More you Make, the Less you Know.
Solving for Work, we get
(7) W = M x K
Work equals Money times Knowledge
>From equation (7) we see that Work approaches 0 as Knowledge approaches 0.
What THIS MEANS is:
The stupid rich do little or no work.
Happy Healeydays!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Eyvind Larssen <seel@online.no>
To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>; Cory LeBlanc
<coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
Date: Sunday, December 10, 2000 3:07 PM
Subject: SV: Einstein's Time and Money Axiom
>
>> But being a student of science I will share a discovery with you.
>> I will share with you Einstein's time and money axiom, T=MC**2. It goes
like
>> this:
>> If you have the time, you are likely unemployed therefore have little
money.
>> If you have the money you are likely employed and therefore have little
>> time.
>> Therefore the conditions of having both time and money are unlikely to
exist
>> in the same universe.
>> I call this "Einstein's Time and Money Axiom" because you don't have to
be
>> Einstein to figure it out.
>> :-)
>> Best Regards,
>> Jim LeBlanc
>
>Uhmm.. well...... being trained in maths.. something surely must be wrong
with that equation?????
>Sounds more like T= 1/M to me.....
>T=Time
>M=Money
>no money gives all the time in the world...... wheras all the money in the
world would give virtually no time....
>;-)
>
>E.Larssen 60BT7... being an Engineer.
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 16:21:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Carb questions.
Hi Simon.
Any size hole can transmit a vacuum. The size only determines the rate
at which equilibrium is reached. I'm sure the small hole that you are
referring to is quite adequate to convey the necessary volume to permit
rapid operation of the vacuum advance capsule.
Fitting electronic ignition, unless incorporating some kind of Spark
Control Module, still requires the correct operation of both the vacuum
and centrifugal advance systems.
All the H and HD series S.U. carburettors incorporate the thimble style
gauze filter at the inlet. Apparently it is sufficiently small a mesh to
catch any particle large enough to cause a problem at the needle valve.
I have no idea why such was considered unnecessary for the HS series of
carburettor. I would agree that the thimble gauze would be unnecessary
if an in line fuel filter is used ahead of the carburettors.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Simon Lachlan wrote:
> Just trying to learn a thing or two....
>
> Stripping a carb (HD6) down to it's barest essentials shows just
> what a tiny drilling there is that goes up to the so-called
> "ignition pipe" which goes around to the advance\retard on the
> distributor. Exactly what is the function of this setup? It's
> dangerous to rationalize in these circs, but the hole seems small
> and precise and surely it cannot permit the movement of much
> pressure?? And the internals of the distributor are fairly lumpy
> and brutish....there seems to be an inherent mismatch here.
>
> Which leads me on to: if I have whipped out the points and put in
> electronics, is this all redundant anyhow?
>
> And, do you all have the little filters in the float lids of your
> HD carbs?? Mine came without and having an inline filter just
> short of the first carb, I guess I won't need them anyhow. And
> they look fairly useless per the book. But, anyway, do you have
> them?
>
> Simon Lachlan
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 14:28:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Einstein's Time and Money Axiom
On Sun, 10 Dec 2000 16:02:28 -0500, Steve Byers wrote:
> What THIS MEANS is:
>
> The stupid rich do little or no work.
Verily, verily, something to aspire to!
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2
1 x AN5, and looking for more...
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
From "Murphy, David (Southfield)" <david.murphy at honeywell.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 15:52:58 -0700
Subject: Fuel Gage Flutter
The needle on the fuel gage of my BJ8 bounces around wildly when the car is
being operated at anything less than a full tank.
As I read this complaint in a 1960's road test of a BJ8, I'm wondering if
this is normal?
Can it be remedied to register all fuel levels more correctly and
dependably? If so how? Or should I live with this quirk?
Dave Murphy
Dearborn Michigan
66BJ8
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 09:27:03 +1000
Subject: Re: ntahc xmas party -- TODAY
> I just returned from running the BN6 through the car wash. If you get
your neck at just the right angle you can get your teeth brushed as a bonus.
I should have worn my poncho.
>
You put a Healey through a car wash ??????
Do they use carpet shampoo for the carpets ?
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 15:31:42 -0800
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
At 02:52 PM 12/10/2000, you wrote:
>The needle on the fuel gage of my BJ8 bounces around wildly when the car is
>being operated at anything less than a full tank.
>
>As I read this complaint in a 1960's road test of a BJ8, I'm wondering if
>this is normal?
>
>Can it be remedied to register all fuel levels more correctly and
>dependably? If so how? Or should I live with this quirk?
>
>Dave Murphy
>Dearborn Michigan
>66BJ8
------------
I always heard you could put a capacitor in parallel with the variable
resistor to make a simple timing circuit, which should dampen the
oscillations, but have never gotten around to trying it myself. I guess I
like the meter bouncing around, it reminds me to check it more often<g>
Bill Katz
Bay Area, CA
http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 16:28:45 -0800
Subject: Mechanical Advance Springs
Listers
Does anyone have a source for the mechanical advance springs for a DM6
distributor? What is the spring tension and at what RPM should the
weights be at full mechanical advance? Thanks in advance.
Mark Fawcett
60 BT7
From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 17:02:14 -0800
Subject: Headliner spray paint color
I just got some vinyl color spray for my hearliner. I sprayed some on what
is left of the old headliner and the color matchs the liner exactly. In
case anyone wants the color and brand.
Plasti-kote Ultra vinyl color 425 off white
Now I just need to find another can, I bought the last one. ( from NAPA)
Jerry
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 19:58:31 -0600
Subject: Re: Superchargers
hi j-
i assume your' re speaking of other than the two bonneville cars, one of which
was the streamliner in which DMH joined the over 200 mph club.
jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Superchargers
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 12:45:48 -0800 (PST)
Recently someone asked about superchargers and sources of information.
In the magazine "Grassroots Motorsports" [June 2000 issue I believe]
Carl Heideman had an article about Judson superchargers. In the
article he referenced George Folchi as a Judson expert. Mr. Folchi
buys, sells, restores and sells parts for Judsons. He can be reached
at:
58 Merryall Road, New Milford, CT 06776
860.355.2807
For those interested in Shorrock supercharging I suggest Jon Peck at
British Classic Sports Cars. If you go to his web site you will find
a good article that can be downloaded. Check out
http://www.bcsc.co.uk
In my research, I have yet to find anyone who successfully supercharged
a big healey.
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
__________________________________________________
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 18:03:10 -0800
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
Very interesting...the cap. thingy. Does anyone know what value that might
be and where the best palace to install it...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2000 3:31 PM
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
>
> At 02:52 PM 12/10/2000, you wrote:
>
> >The needle on the fuel gage of my BJ8 bounces around wildly when the car
is
> >being operated at anything less than a full tank.
> >
> >As I read this complaint in a 1960's road test of a BJ8, I'm wondering if
> >this is normal?
> >
> >Can it be remedied to register all fuel levels more correctly and
> >dependably? If so how? Or should I live with this quirk?
> >
> >Dave Murphy
> >Dearborn Michigan
> >66BJ8
> ------------
>
> I always heard you could put a capacitor in parallel with the variable
> resistor to make a simple timing circuit, which should dampen the
> oscillations, but have never gotten around to trying it myself. I guess I
> like the meter bouncing around, it reminds me to check it more often<g>
>
>
> Bill Katz
> Bay Area, CA
> http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 20:10:31 -0600
Subject: Re: Status
we're going to start another group called the " the 3.5 shuck and jive" group
if you ever get your deposit in where mike can start production.
----- Original Message -----
From: Rebeltown@aol.com
To: Awgertoo@aol.com, Drtrite@aol.com, mdlempert@worldnet.att.net,
William.Hare@sce.com, ttaff@wtd.net, tomsimport@ipinc.net,
tommason@juno.com, tom_magnuson@hp.com, Tomcarna@aol.com,
todds@muhlon.com, tfs@mitre.org, Sid_Shadle@dot.ca.gov,
fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com, obiedog@telusplanet.net, rwil@cts.com,
hendrixr@callamer.com, rsdslp@juno.com, tippytoo@eatel.net,
rsnover@toyshop-resto.com, rjh.co@worldnet.att.net,
sebring1955@yahoo.com, gonzo18@primenet.com, RandallC2@aol.com,
Austinhpas@aol.com, pollpete@ix.netcom.com, cmi@mninter.net,
blimpie@digisys.net, MLVBJ8@aol.com, MJohnson@cfworks.com,
mldixon@planetcable.net, fawcett1@mediaone.net, MBran89793@aol.com,
lmercibn6@mindspring.com, NONEMALF@aol.com, medition@netscape.net,
healey27@mindspring.com, john-tiffany@uiowa.edu, loftusdesign@home.com,
jheff123@email.msn.com, j.b.cuny@worldnet.att.net,
jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us, jc9821@dellnet.com, javrugtman@widomaker.com,
ah102@home.com, superjibber@earthlink.net, JDIT@prodigy.net,
jwcox@crosslink.net, jwbn6@iopener.net, jds@dominion.llumc.edu,
LBrown1505@aol.com, jakobsen@gorge.net, BEARMAN1J@aol.com,
ADHaymond@directv.com, GPOORTEN@corus.jnj.com, jacigeo@hevanet.com,
finadv@mncmail.com, mermer@citlink.net, abritish@earthlink.net,
je.adams@worldnet.att.net, esantoro@drbc.state.nj.us, EdwardVR@aol.com,
JustBrits@aol.com, ruvino@recorder.ca, dwflagg@juno.com,
dougescriva@netscape.net, dauburg@vintagead.com,
Donald.Southworth@sce.com, richsol@flash.net, 3656@surfari.net,
dwehret@yahoo.com, BOWERSDA@uvsc.edu, cob@atg.com.au,
austina@airmail.net, squawkingchicken@centuryinter.net,
healey@salisbury.net, bstarke@redshift.bc.ca, razorblades@juno.com,
autofarm@gate-way.net, bspidell@slip.net, bobmac@i1.net,
bob.judd@quokka.com, RBridger01@aol.com, Wwycoffbn7@aol.com,
mcmahons@massed.net, OverlyHollow@aol.com, bkatz@handsonresearch.com,
bevillw@web-ster.com, allen@hendrixwirewheel.com, ajtoepfe@flash.net,
terryaviator@bigplanet.com
Subject: Status
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 18:19:53 EST
There already is a "GREAT" Austin Healey Sports and Touring Club in the N/E
and Mid-Atlantic states. Why don't we all join one of their local chapters??
Gary S.
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 20:13:31 -0800
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
Well I don't know the value of the sensor's resistor, so I can't calculate
the time constant, but I'd start with a .1 mf cap and see what happens
(might be too slow). Probably best to put it on the back of the gauge since
you don't really want to risk making sparks back by the tank. Looking at
the wiring diagram, it would go from the "T" terminal of the gauge to ground.
--------------------------
At 06:03 PM 12/10/2000, you wrote:
>Very interesting...the cap. thingy. Does anyone know what value that might
>be and where the best palace to install it...Neil
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2000 3:31 PM
>Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
>
>
> >
> > At 02:52 PM 12/10/2000, you wrote:
> >
> > >The needle on the fuel gage of my BJ8 bounces around wildly when the car
>is
> > >being operated at anything less than a full tank.
> > >
> > >As I read this complaint in a 1960's road test of a BJ8, I'm wondering if
> > >this is normal?
> > >
> > >Can it be remedied to register all fuel levels more correctly and
> > >dependably? If so how? Or should I live with this quirk?
> > >
> > >Dave Murphy
> > >Dearborn Michigan
> > >66BJ8
> > ------------
> >
> > I always heard you could put a capacitor in parallel with the variable
> > resistor to make a simple timing circuit, which should dampen the
> > oscillations, but have never gotten around to trying it myself. I guess I
> > like the meter bouncing around, it reminds me to check it more often<g>
> >
> >
> > Bill Katz
> > Bay Area, CA
> > http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
From Vargopack at cs.com
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 23:59:30 EST
Subject: Body shop
Last night returnng home after running some errands I was rear ended in my BT
7. The damage fortunately was not too bad, boot lid pushed-in, bumper bent
and a litttle damage to the shroud. It did upset the dogs, not much
protection there. I would appreciate any recommendations for a body shop in
the San Francisco area, perferrably the East Bay. I am not sure that a
regular body shop would be familar with the type of work required.
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 00:41:10 EST
Subject: Re: Body shop
In a message dated 12/10/00 9:03:07 PM, Vargopack@cs.com writes:
<<
Last night returnng home after running some errands I was rear ended in my BT
7. The damage fortunately was not too bad, boot lid pushed-in, bumper bent
and a litttle damage to the shroud. It did upset the dogs, not much
protection there. I would appreciate any recommendations for a body shop in
the San Francisco area, perferrably the East Bay. >>
Can't speak for the East Bay, but when I rear-ended my BN7 into a tree (don't
ask) I had the rework done by Images Autobody in Campbell (just off Highway
17, between San Jose and Los Gatos, near Hwy 85). They are more than
familiar with our classic cars, though the core of their restoration work is
Jaguars and they do a big insurance business on Ferraris, Porsches, etc. The
work done on mine was fantastic -- perfect paint match, no bondo, and great
contours. Cost and time weren't out of line, either.
Cheers
Gary
If you need a phone number, let me know.
From "Magnus Karlsson" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 11:54:42 +0100
Subject: SV: Mechanical Advance Springs
Cambridge Motorsports in England has them.
+44-17676 77026
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Fawcett <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2000 1:28 AM
Subject: Mechanical Advance Springs
>
> Listers
> Does anyone have a source for the mechanical advance springs for a DM6
> distributor? What is the spring tension and at what RPM should the
> weights be at full mechanical advance? Thanks in advance.
> Mark Fawcett
> 60 BT7
From "Magnus Karlsson" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 12:02:45 +0100
Subject: SV: Einstein's Time and Money Axiom
Well I4m not trained in math so I can4t set up a formula but I think you4re
right up to a point. Exceeding that point would mean a lot of money and a lot
of time. Which probably wouldn4t make one anymore happy.
> Sounds more like T= 1/M to me.....
> T=Time
> M=Money
> no money gives all the time in the world...... wheras all the money in the
>world would give virtually no time....
> ;-)
>
> E.Larssen 60BT7... being an Engineer.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
From njones at amadeus.net
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 12:25:01 +0100
Subject: Dim Instrument Illumination.
If like me your instrument illumination needs more lumens..then AH Spares in
England
currently have in stock a 3W not the original 2.2W screw bulbs...check with
your US Stockists
to see where they order from and ask them to check the bulbs for the 3W
stamping....
- makes a big difference to the illumination.
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 07:07:10 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
I recall my MGB's all had a little box wired in line under the dash just
before the fuel gauge. Basically it made the electric current from the fuel
sending unit "pulse." It interrupted the electric supply just long enough to
keep the fuel gauge from moving instantly and kept the gauge needle constant.
Anyone know more about how these work and if it would work on a Healey?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 08:52:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
Jwhlyadv@aol.com wrote:
> I recall my MGB's all had a little box wired in line under the dash just
> before the fuel gauge. Basically it made the electric current from the fuel
> sending unit "pulse." It interrupted the electric supply just long enough to
> keep the fuel gauge from moving instantly and kept the gauge needle constant.
>
> Anyone know more about how these work and if it would work on a Healey?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
The little box is an instrument voltage stabilizer which limits the voltage that
the instruments receive so that the readings are not affected by the normal
vehicle voltage fluctuations.
The MGB gauge, on later models, is a different type of gauge from a Healey or
MGA. They are activated by the heating of a bimetallic strip. This type of gauge
is not as fast to react as the earlier type and therefore does not flicker. We
had one Healey in the shop some years ago that had had an MGB gauge fitted and
it
worked fine, however I was never able to determine if the sender unit had been
changed. One day I will do a resistance check of the two types of sender unit to
see if they are compatible. The fitting to the tank is very different. The MGB
thermally operated gauge has a much thicker needle than the Healey style.
Hope that helps...
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 09:05:22 -0500
Subject: Re: OD
Hi Lance,
It does sound as though the OD is still engaged. DO NOT TRY TO BACK UP. The
problem is probably hydraulic. The operating valve has a very small bleed off
hole in the side of it which causes that problem when it gets blocked.
You have to take the tunnel off and then remove the hex plug on the top of
the overdrive. The operating valve is a metal "stick" about 4" long that is
down in that hole under some other bits and pieces all of which should be
carefully replaced when you put it back together.
Good luck.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Lance Werner wrote:
> Hi Mike:
> Sometimes when I've been driving in overdrive and then come to a stop and
> try to go in reverse to back up, I can't. Does this mean the od has not
> disengaged? Would this be an electrical problem or mechanical or either?
> This od seems to work fine otherwise.
> lance
> 54 bn1
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 10:35:42 -0500
Subject: Christmas Gift
I gave my Fiancie her Christmas present early this year. I finally got the
XK 120 running and out of the garage. She can now put her car in next to
the Healey.... She's happy, as am I, I fell like a stone has been lifted
from my back. I've been restoring the Jag on and off for about 5 years, the
Healey has suffered because all my spare time was spent on the Jag. I was
doing it for a good friend, never again, I've got enough to keep me busy.
It was supposed to be a quick restoration, but every time I'd fix one thing
I'd find something else.. You all know that feeling, I'm sure. At one point
the whole back end was off of it to repair frame parts.. Everyone, except
me, was wondering how I'd get it back together... Anyhow, he came up on
Saturday and we drove it 25 miles to his house.. It ran great. Sometimes I
even surprise myself.. ;-) I drove it because he wasn't too sure about
driving a right hand drive car. I let him drive it around the neighborhood,
but I drove it to his house with him riding shot gun. Although it's only in
primer we got lots of looks and horn toots... Neat car, but I still like my
little girl, and now I can spend the winter getting her ready for spring...
and to think I almost sold her.. That won't happen again.. Just thought I'd
spread my joy.... and to everyone that gets frustrated while working on
your car.. All I can say is hang in there, every little bit helps, and once
it's road worthy it makes all the work worth it...... Merry Christmas
everyone.....
Steve
61' BN7 (soon to be pampered)
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 07:52:03 -0800
Subject: RE: Carbf filters
I rather think the opposite. I like the two little filters in the float lids
because they come out easily for examination and washing. The inline filter
doesn't talk to me so it is always a question as to its condition. Those
glass inline ones are the worst of all. You see the bubble in it and then
don't know if there is vapor lock or if it is normal. I think they do
promote vapor lock!
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Simon Lachlan [mailto:simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk]
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2000 8:36 AM
To: Healeys
Subject: Carb questions.
Just trying to learn a thing or two....
Stripping a carb (HD6) down to it's barest essentials shows just
what a tiny drilling there is that goes up to the so-called
"ignition pipe" which goes around to the advance\retard on the
distributor. Exactly what is the function of this setup? It's
dangerous to rationalize in these circs, but the hole seems small
and precise and surely it cannot permit the movement of much
pressure?? And the internals of the distributor are fairly lumpy
and brutish....there seems to be an inherent mismatch here.
Which leads me on to: if I have whipped out the points and put in
electronics, is this all redundant anyhow?
And, do you all have the little filters in the float lids of your
HD carbs?? Mine came without and having an inline filter just
short of the first carb, I guess I won't need them anyhow. And
they look fairly useless per the book. But, anyway, do you have
them?
Simon Lachlan
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 12:22:17 EST
Subject: Re: RE: Carbf filters
In a message dated 12/11/00 7:55:14 AM, Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com writes:
<< Those
glass inline ones are the worst of all. You see the bubble in it and then
don't know if there is vapor lock or if it is normal. I think they do
promote vapor lock!
Ken Freese
65 BJ8 >>
And I thought they looked so cool. And seemed to offer an alternative to the
standard diagnostic step: "Get a tin can to catch the fuel, then detach the
feed line and engage the fuel pump to see if it is pumping adequately. Pour
fuel from can back into gas tank."
But you're right about looking at the strainers in the carbs to see if they
look junked up.
is it your view that we shouldn't use any kind of inline filter, or just the
glass type. What's your thought about the glass jar style filter as installed
on Jaguars?
Cheers
Gary
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 12:26:06 -0600
Subject: RE: Fuel Gage Flutter
Hi,
I think I recall the resistance being around 70 ohms max. The thing to
keep in mind with a cap in parallel is that as the fuel level in the tank
changes, the time constant of the RC circuit will change as well, with the
resistance dropping to around 10 ohms.
What's a good value for the time constant - around five or ten seconds?
Let's say tau = 10 seconds and the lowest R = 10 ohms. That would suggest
a value of C as 10000 uF.
Sounds huge but certainly not impractical.
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Katz [mailto:bkatz@handsonresearch.com]
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2000 8:14 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
Well I don't know the value of the sensor's resistor, so I can't calculate
the time constant, but I'd start with a .1 mf cap and see what happens
(might be too slow). Probably best to put it on the back of the gauge since
you don't really want to risk making sparks back by the tank. Looking at
the wiring diagram, it would go from the "T" terminal of the gauge to
ground.
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 12:44:11 -0800
Subject: RE: Fuel Gage Flutter
Yikes!! a 10,000 uF cap would be the size of a thermos! Perhaps we need to
rethink this<g>
--------------
At 10:26 AM 12/11/2000, you wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I think I recall the resistance being around 70 ohms max. The thing to
>keep in mind with a cap in parallel is that as the fuel level in the tank
>changes, the time constant of the RC circuit will change as well, with the
>resistance dropping to around 10 ohms.
>
>What's a good value for the time constant - around five or ten seconds?
>Let's say tau = 10 seconds and the lowest R = 10 ohms. That would suggest
>a value of C as 10000 uF.
>
>Sounds huge but certainly not impractical.
>
>Adnan
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bill Katz [mailto:bkatz@handsonresearch.com]
>Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2000 8:14 PM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
>
>Well I don't know the value of the sensor's resistor, so I can't calculate
>the time constant, but I'd start with a .1 mf cap and see what happens
>(might be too slow). Probably best to put it on the back of the gauge since
>you don't really want to risk making sparks back by the tank. Looking at
>the wiring diagram, it would go from the "T" terminal of the gauge to
>ground.
From tom Blaskovics <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 07:00:47 -0500
Subject: need a part
Hi Listers,
I am looking for the left side and or right side cantrail aluminum pieces
their are fou pieces, two straight pieces and two curved pieces left and
right side.
MOSS doesn't give a part number for it.
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Back on the Road in July
MB 450 SL
Morgantown, WV
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 16:19:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Bugeye Project Seeks Good Home
I received the following e-mail message today. I have no further knowledge
of, or personal interest in the sale of, this car. If interested please
respond directly to the seller (email address cc above). Thanks.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
healey-dot-org
----
Gentlemen,
I am the executor of my father's estate and have been trying to liquidate
portions of that estate. One item that he owns (he currently resides with
me after experiencing several strokes) a 1960 Bug-eye. He had, over a
couple of years, begun to prepare her for restoration. Thus, she looks more
like a pile of spare parts; however, she is all present including a
fiberglass hardtop, all bumpers/bumpets, etc.
I have had several serious inquiries, but most folks lose interest when they
discover that it garaged in Western North Carolina. I am in Raleigh, NC.
This website is currently still active, but may disappear at any time.
http://home.interpath.net/storrs/index.htm
My ISP is dropping their 'dial-in' customers and have not given us any
timeline for their transfer of our electronic assets. Any help is truly
appreciated. Have a great week!
----
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From JXLmail at aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 19:20:52 EST
Subject: Re: Superchargers
Group,
Has anyone supercharged a stock Austin Healey 100 engine ?
Jim
BN2
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 17:55:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Einstein's Time and Money Axiom
A lot of truth in that. I have always thought that it was a shame that we all,
save a fortunate few, end up trading our lives an hour at a time for a few
crusts of bread. On the bright side, if we can get the stock market back on
track a few crusts can mount up pretty fast.
Bill Lawrence
Cory LeBlanc wrote:
> Hi Bill, Joe, List:
>
> You both raise most valuable points. I do not mind being told that I need
> more tools and time to work on my Healey. I also do not mind people telling
> me that I spend too much money on my car. Because all the above is true.
>
> But being a student of science I will share a discovery with you.
>
> I will share with you Einstein's time and money axiom, T=MC**2. It goes like
> this:
>
> If you have the time, you are likely unemployed therefore have little money.
>
> If you have the money you are likely employed and therefore have little
> time.
>
> Therefore the conditions of having both time and money are unlikely to exist
> in the same universe.
>
> I call this "Einstein's Time and Money Axiom" because you don't have to be
> Einstein to figure it out.
>
> :-)
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Jim LeBlanc
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joseph Smathers" <healey27@mindspring.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Cc: <ynotink@qwest.net>
> Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2000 7:21 PM
> Subject: Re: AH3000 III transmission and Smitty Toyota 5speedconversion.
>
> >
> > Bill,
> >
> > I don't want to be so smart ( or an ass ),but some of us are not
> > mechanically inclined. We love these cars as much as you do, but we do not
> > have the ability to perform the simple repairs such as transmission
> repair.
> > Lord knows, I would love to be able to pull the transmission, set the
> > timing or repair the distributor, but I am not able to do so. Thankfully I
> > have other talents that allows me to pay others to perform these
> functions.
> > I have had a Healey for nearly 30 years and just now have the time to
> learn
> > how to fix certain problems, but I will never be a good mechanic. I don't
> > have the aptitude. I wish I did, but I don't and I know it. I have spent
> > many hours " bothering my current mechanic " with questions on why and how
> > does this work. I will continue to do this as I love this car and want to
> > know how it works and how to repair. Please be a little less demanding to
> > us who love our Healey's as much as you do.
> >
> > Best Regards, Joe
> >
> > At 09:48 PM 12/03/2000 , you wrote:
> > Touchi! On the other hand I think it is prudent for anyone who intends to
> > drive
> > one of these cars, or any car based on what is fast becoming a forgotten
> > technology (at least in the larger production oriented repair shops) to
> > become
> > acquainted with and be able to perform simple repairs themselves.
> >
> > It has nothing to do with being smart, or even a smart ass. It has to do
> with
> > being able to defend yourself in a marketplace full of sharks. I can't
> > imagine
> > what anyone could do to an Austin transmission that could possibly cause
> it
> > to be
> > that expensive to build. It is not that complex and does not contain that
> > many
> > parts.
> >
> > Familiarity with the machine can help you avoid being taken. It also can
> add
> > immensely to your enjoyment of the car. It's my hobby, why would I pay
> > someone
> > else to enjoy it for me.
> >
> > Bill Lawrence
> >
> > Joseph Smathers wrote:
> >
> > > Not all of us are as smart ( ass ) as you are. The reason we subscribe
> to
> > > this list is to get advise from people who know a little, or a lot,
> more
> > > than we do. We don't need to shoot people down when they overspend. Why
> > > do we have the list. Hopefully we try to share the knowledge.
> > >
> > > Joe Smathers
> > >
> > > 1955 100
> > > 1960 3000
> > >
> > > At 08:18 PM 12/03/2000 , you wrote:
> > >
> > > >If you paid 3 grand for your transmission rebuild and were willing to
> > wait
> > > >"many months' for it I want to be your mechanic. You really need to
> > invest
> > > >in a
> > > >service manual and a set of tools.
> > > >
> > > >Just my opinion.
> > > >
> > > >Bill Lawrence
> > > >
> > > >Cory LeBlanc wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > To add a few thoughts to this popular "Smitty Toyo Conversion"
> thread:
> > > > >
> > > > > In my mind, the real issue is if you want the original transmission
> > in your
> > > > > car. Should you decide this, then the price of the rebuild may not
> > be the
> > > > > issue. My rebuild cost close to twice what Dean says the Smitty
> > conversion
> > > > > cost him. And the gearbox was in the shop for many months. Having
> > > > > foresight, I bought a used gearbox from Jack Walker, who now drives
> a
> > > > Smitty
> > > > > in his BT7. Then after rebuild, I learned a considerable set of
> > lessons on
> > > > > adjusting the overdrive solenoid.
> > > > >
> > > > > Should you decide that you want an easy transmission to drive, go
> > with the
> > > > > Smitty. Everybody says they are a dream come true.
> > > > >
> > > > > Best Regards,
> > > > >
> > > > > Jim LeBlanc
> > > > > 1956 100-M
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@home.com>
> > > > > To: "Murphy, David (Southfield)" <david.murphy@honeywell.com>
> > > > > Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > > Sent: Friday, December 01, 2000 5:44 AM
> > > > > Subject: Re: AH3000 III transmission and Smitty Toyota 5 speed
> > conversion.
> > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hi Dave,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Your original transmission does not sound to be too bad. The
> > inhibitor
> > > > > switch
> > > > > > and oil leakage are usually minor things to correct during a
> > rebuild. You
> > > > > may
> > > > > > need a 1/2nd slider hub and perhaps a 2nd gear to solve the jump
> out
> > > > > problem
> > > > > > but again much less than the $1100 for the conversion and you
> > still have
> > > > > an
> > > > > > original car.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --
> > > > > > Regards,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mike Salter
> > > > > > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > > > > > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Murphy, David (Southfield)" wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > Per the dipstick, my 3000 seems to consume tranny oil (30wt non
> > > > > detergent)
> > > > > > > at the rate of 1 quart per hundred miles. It doesn't leak when
> > parked.
> > > > > > > Besides having a bad 3-4 OD inhibiter switch in the shift
> linkage
> > it
> > > > > > > occasionally jumps out of second gear on coast down. Otherwise
> the
> > > > > tranny
> > > > > > > and clutch work fine.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I'm trying to decide whether it is wiser to:
> > > > > > > a) just replace the inhibiter switch and live with the oil
> > consumption
> > > > > and
> > > > > > > occasional jumping out of second,
> > > > > > > b) replace the inhibiter switch, try and repair the second gear
> > > > > retention
> > > > > > > problem and fix the oil ejection.
> > > > > > > c) do a full tranny overhaul.
> > > > > > > d) convert to a Toyota 5 speed.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > What does everyone recommend?
> > > > > > > Does anyone have any experience they can relate to me on the
> > Smitty
> > > > > > > conversion?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Dave Murphy
> > > > > > > Dearborn Michigan
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 18:00:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Einstein's Time and Money Axiom
I conform to two parts of the equation. Why the hell ain't
I rich?
Bill Lawrence
Reid Trummel wrote:
> On Sun, 10 Dec 2000 16:02:28 -0500, Steve Byers wrote:
>
> > What THIS MEANS is:
> >
> > The stupid rich do little or no work.
>
> Verily, verily, something to aspire to!
>
> Reid Trummel
> Tampa, Florida
> 2 x BN2
> 1 x AN5, and looking for more...
> http://www.healey.org
> http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Send a cool gift with your E-Card
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 20:58:18 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
In a message dated 12/11/00 2:49:10 PM Central Standard Time,
bkatz@handsonresearch.com writes:
<< Yikes!! a 10,000 uF cap would be the size of a thermos! Perhaps we need to
rethink this<g>
>>
Actually you need to get into the 1 Farad range to be thermos size. I have
one to stiffen the power supply to my stereo system in the Jag. Makes a big
difference for sound depth.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 21:46:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
Guys....capacitors have shrunk in recent times. You can get 10,000uF @ 16
volt part for about the size of a 35mm film canister.
Dave
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <Csooch1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2000 5:58 PM
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
>
> In a message dated 12/11/00 2:49:10 PM Central Standard Time,
> bkatz@handsonresearch.com writes:
>
> << Yikes!! a 10,000 uF cap would be the size of a thermos! Perhaps we need
to
> rethink this<g>
> >>
> Actually you need to get into the 1 Farad range to be thermos size. I
have
> one to stiffen the power supply to my stereo system in the Jag. Makes a
big
> difference for sound depth.
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
> XJ6
From "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 19:59:54 -0800
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
The movement in the gauge gives me reassurance that the system is working
and liquid is in the tank.
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----- Original Message -----
From: "Murphy, David (Southfield)" <david.murphy@honeywell.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2000 2:52 PM
Subject: Fuel Gage Flutter
>
> The needle on the fuel gage of my BJ8 bounces around wildly when the car
is
> being operated at anything less than a full tank.
>
> As I read this complaint in a 1960's road test of a BJ8, I'm wondering if
> this is normal?
>
> Can it be remedied to register all fuel levels more correctly and
> dependably? If so how? Or should I live with this quirk?
>
> Dave Murphy
> Dearborn Michigan
> 66BJ8
From "Hatcher, Bob" <hatcher at shoalhaven.nsw.gov.au>
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 16:20:21 +1100
Subject: FW: Fuel Gage Flutter
Now that this original discussion has had a little time to be answered, may
I add a variation to the problem and see if it's the same thing or something
different. On my BN1 the fuel gauge dips dramatically when the throttle is
opened and goes to the other extreme and reads high when the foot is lifted
off the throttle. The only way to get a reasonable readout is with a gentle
throttle pressure.
Can anyone advise if this is same problem or something entirely different?
If the latter, can anyone suggest a fix?
Bob Hatcher
Nowra, Australia
54BN1
-----Original Message-----
From: Murphy, David (Southfield) [mailto:david.murphy@honeywell.com]
Sent: Monday, 11 December 2000 9:53 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Fuel Gage Flutter
The needle on the fuel gage of my BJ8 bounces around wildly when the car is
being operated at anything less than a full tank.
As I read this complaint in a 1960's road test of a BJ8, I'm wondering if
this is normal?
Can it be remedied to register all fuel levels more correctly and
dependably? If so how? Or should I live with this quirk?
Dave Murphy
Dearborn Michigan
66BJ8
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 00:26:25 EST
Subject: 1275 engine wanted
Passing this along for a new Healey owner. Please contact direct at
502-895-2026
Fellow Healeyphiles,
A fellow that lives here in Louisville and just purchased a Bugeye from
Dallas would like to purchase a for his Bugeye. He needs a fairly complete
block but it doesn't have to be in good condition as long as the price is
commensurate with the condition and the engine is rebuildable.
His name is Dick Cryder and his number is 502-895-2026. If you have one or
know of one please give him a call.
Thanks,
Mike Schneider
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 00:35:21 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
>From the useless trivia on fuel gauges department: In a mad dash to finish a
car before Conclave I put a Bugeye sending unit in my BN4. Needed something
to fill up the hole in the gas tank and it was handy.
It works fine but on quarter scale. One-fourth gauge reading equals full
tank, one-eighth gauge reading equals half a tank. You have to squint to read
it but no flutter.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 22:43:37 -0800
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
The tanks are unbaffled and the gauge is undamped, so yes in my mind that is
what you get. When you accelerate-the gas hits the back of the tank...gauge
reads low, brake-the gas hits the front of the tank...gauge reads higher
(slosh, slosh, slosh). The more empty (more empty, interesting phrase kinda
like more better) the tank the greater needle movement (more eratic)....that
is until bone dry, then tick tick tick. How's that boys, close?...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hatcher, Bob" <hatcher@shoalhaven.nsw.gov.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2000 9:20 PM
Subject: FW: Fuel Gage Flutter
>
> Now that this original discussion has had a little time to be answered,
may
> I add a variation to the problem and see if it's the same thing or
something
> different. On my BN1 the fuel gauge dips dramatically when the throttle
is
> opened and goes to the other extreme and reads high when the foot is
lifted
> off the throttle. The only way to get a reasonable readout is with a
gentle
> throttle pressure.
> Can anyone advise if this is same problem or something entirely different?
> If the latter, can anyone suggest a fix?
> Bob Hatcher
> Nowra, Australia
> 54BN1
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Murphy, David (Southfield) [mailto:david.murphy@honeywell.com]
> Sent: Monday, 11 December 2000 9:53 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Fuel Gage Flutter
>
>
> The needle on the fuel gage of my BJ8 bounces around wildly when the car
is
> being operated at anything less than a full tank.
> As I read this complaint in a 1960's road test of a BJ8, I'm wondering if
> this is normal?
> Can it be remedied to register all fuel levels more correctly and
> dependably? If so how? Or should I live with this quirk?
>
> Dave Murphy
> Dearborn Michigan
> 66BJ8
From Louis Galper <lgalper1 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 23:07:00 -0800
Subject: Re: BN 1 block re-sleeve
I recently had sleeves put into the 4 cyl block.
(The cylinders had some deep scratches in them)
While boring the block to receive the sleeves, a small hole broke thru
into the water jacket. Hopefully, the sleeve will fit over the hole and
seal it. Any thoughts on whether the block is beyond the point of
repair?
This type of thing may happen more than the average car owner thinks, we
don't all learn what happens in the back of the machine shop.
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 09:59:38 -0000
Subject: RE: RE: Carbf filters
Thanks for all the input on this. Below......
In a message dated 12/11/00 7:55:14 AM, Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com
writes:
<< Those
glass inline ones are the worst of all. You see the bubble in it
and then
don't know if there is vapor lock or if it is normal. I think
they do
promote vapor lock!
Ken Freese
65 BJ8 >>
I went out this morning to look for carb bits and, whilst this
part of the UK world is not Coventry or Warwick, it is
surprisingly well off in old-fashioned type suppliers. By this I
mean the sort of guys who have been in the trade since doing
their apprenticeship and who know how to fix things. The
impression that I received was that only the glass bowl type per
Jags was that good, and that the little acorn filters in the
float chambers were ideal in that they would block anything big
enough to jam the needle.
As for inline filters, I saw a very good looking thing in glass
and chrome or, maybe, stainless. These looked smart and had
replaceable filters. y were made by Purulator which I gathered is
(a) American and (b) still in business.
And I thought they looked so cool. And seemed to offer an
alternative to the
standard diagnostic step: "Get a tin can to catch the fuel, then
detach the
feed line and engage the fuel pump to see if it is pumping
adequately. Pour
fuel from can back into gas tank."
But you're right about looking at the strainers in the carbs to
see if they
look junked up.
Agreed.
is it your view that we shouldn't use any kind of inline filter,
or just the
glass type. What's your thought about the glass jar style filter
as installed
on Jaguars?
Overall impression was -use the float bowl filters, but be
prepared to check them. If you want to go inline, go for the
glass bowl Jag type.
Simon.
Cheers
Gary
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 07:11:15 -0600
Subject: The List
I have sent about 7 or 8 messages to the list, none of which have appeared.
Is anyone else experiencing this difficulty? If any list members get this
message please e-mail me at dyarber@dynasty.net and let me know that it
appeared so I will have some idea of what the problem may be.
Don
BN7
From "Browning David (TVCS)" <BrowningD at tce.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 08:28:42 -0500
Subject: RE: Fuel Gage Flutter
Just make sure you get a cap that's rated for >16V (since the car is on a
12V system and assuming you could see that voltage across the gauge.) We
use "super caps" here at work which are on the order of .22F to 1F and are
about the size of a big watch battery, but they are only rated for 5V. I
would think the 16V rated parts wouldn't grow too much in size.
My $.02
David
55 BN1
-----Original Message-----
From: Csooch1@aol.com [mailto:Csooch1@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2000 8:58 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
In a message dated 12/11/00 2:49:10 PM Central Standard Time,
bkatz@handsonresearch.com writes:
<< Yikes!! a 10,000 uF cap would be the size of a thermos!
Perhaps we need to
rethink this<g>
>>
Actually you need to get into the 1 Farad range to be thermos
size. I have
one to stiffen the power supply to my stereo system in the Jag.
Makes a big
difference for sound depth.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 09:08:34 +0000
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
>>The needle on the fuel gage of my BJ8 bounces around wildly when the car is
>>being operated at anything less than a full tank.
>>
>------------
>
>I always heard you could put a capacitor in parallel with the variable
>resistor to make a simple timing circuit, which should dampen the
>oscillations, but have never gotten around to trying it myself. I guess I
>like the meter bouncing around, it reminds me to check it more often<g>
>
I feel the need here to repeat an earlier warning. I admit that what I
am about to say is just theory but personally I would never add a
capicitor to the fuel guage circuit.
If one studies the float unit you will see that it is sealed above the
slider and resistor element. In fact it is theoretically possible to
immerse the whole electric contact/slider system in petrol/gas.
Now any moving electical contact will produce sparks which are not a
good thing to mix with fuel and air.
I once discussed this with an explosives expert and he told me that it
takes a certain amount of energy in a spark to ignite fuel and he
assumed that the Austin Healey fuel gauge system had been designed so
that this level could not be reached.
Now if one starts adding capacitors which by their nature store up
energy one could perhaps create enough energy in the spark in the top of
the float unit to ignite the fuel.
As I say just theory but I for one would not risk it.
All the best
--
John Harper
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 09:37:32 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
In a message dated 12/12/00 1:48:54 AM Eastern Standard Time,
neilberg@telus.net writes:
<< The tanks are unbaffled and the gauge is undamped >>
And I am baffled (heh heh) why more folks simply don't use their tripometers
as fuel guages--unless of course they are inoperative....
Michael Oritt, BN1
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 09:55:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
John and All,
A few months back I mentioned the Ford Prefect that exploded on the road ahead
of
me after the owner had been repairing the fuel sender and gauge. The police
reckoned that he had hooked it up incorrectly and when he turned on something on
the dash, probably the lights, the sender unit heated up and ignited the vapors
in the fuel tank.
All I know is that it was one of the biggest flashes that I have ever seen and
the car rolled end over end down the side of a causeway into the harbour. The
driver did not survive.
Since that I have been very cautious about fuel gauge repairs.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
John Harper wrote:
> >>The needle on the fuel gage of my BJ8 bounces around wildly when the car is
> >>being operated at anything less than a full tank.
> >>
> >------------
> >
> >I always heard you could put a capacitor in parallel with the variable
> >resistor to make a simple timing circuit, which should dampen the
> >oscillations, but have never gotten around to trying it myself. I guess I
> >like the meter bouncing around, it reminds me to check it more often<g>
> >
> I feel the need here to repeat an earlier warning. I admit that what I
> am about to say is just theory but personally I would never add a
> capicitor to the fuel guage circuit.
>
> If one studies the float unit you will see that it is sealed above the
> slider and resistor element. In fact it is theoretically possible to
> immerse the whole electric contact/slider system in petrol/gas.
>
> Now any moving electical contact will produce sparks which are not a
> good thing to mix with fuel and air.
>
> I once discussed this with an explosives expert and he told me that it
> takes a certain amount of energy in a spark to ignite fuel and he
> assumed that the Austin Healey fuel gauge system had been designed so
> that this level could not be reached.
>
> Now if one starts adding capacitors which by their nature store up
> energy one could perhaps create enough energy in the spark in the top of
> the float unit to ignite the fuel.
>
> As I say just theory but I for one would not risk it.
>
> All the best
> --
> John Harper
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 09:57:45 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
Flutter of the fuel gage is usually caused by poor contact betweent lhe
sewwper blades andl the wire coil int he sender unit. This is easy to verify
by removing the sendingl unit and checking its resistance with an ohm meter
while moving lthe float arm. Youl need to move the arm slowly as digital
meters take readings at intervals andl you need to see successive readings to
tell hwat's going on. Analog meters (with dial faces and a sweep
needle/pointer) will show the changes in resistance a bit easier.
aNyhow, it is not likely that the sweep arms have lost their pressure against
the wire co8il. Rather, the wire coil has gotten dirty and the arms lose
contact as they sweep along its sides. Before trying to effect any repair,
you MUST understand the design and materials used.
First, the wire is extriemely fine laquer-coated copper, coiled in one layer
around an insulating tube/core. If you envision a crossection of the coils
nesting next to each other, eachis insulated formt helnext by the laquer
coating. The top "surface" of the coil has peaks and valleys as you move
from coil to coil. In manufacture, the peaks are sanded lightly to remove
the laquer coating and expose the copper wire. This does not short out
between coils, but merely lets the sweeper blade touch their outer surface.
One end of hte wire is soldered to the terminal post. The other end has its
inslulation stripped from about 1/4" and is jammed between the inslulating
collet/sleeve (that the "hot" post passes through ) and the metal body. It
is extremely important that you have a good ground between the body/gas tank
and car or the sending unit won't work.
At "full" poslition, I believe the total resistance is around 85 ohms, and at
"empty it is around 2 ohms. MAke sure your ohm meter leads are making good
contact tot he "hot" post and unit body whenl you check the resistance.
If the resistance jumps around as you sweep the float arm, then to clean the
coils Isuggest the following.
1) Remove the lid. NOTE: all screws on the unit are BA thread (and the six
attaching it to the tank as well), so don't lose them! Also, try to avoid
damaging the gasket, though this can be replaced if needed.
2) Use a very find wet/dry paper and cut a little strip about 1/4 - 1/2"
wide. I would use 1000 grit. Also, get a thin piece of brass or steel shim
stock to use as a support to press the sand paper against the side of the
coil.
3) Position the sweep blades at one end of the coil and work on the far
"half". Gently move the 1000 grit paper, backed by the brass shim back and
forth across the coils. A few sweeps should be enough. Remember, if you
sand away too much of the "peaks" you can end up with adjacent coils shorting
to each other. You're just trying to clean up the coil's swept surface.
Place a piece of 1000 grit paper along the full length of the coil, with the
grit facing the sweep arm. Move the arm to clean its rubbing surface. Do
this to the other side as well.
Two calutions:
1) Watch out for the stand of coil wire that runs fromt he far end to the
front. If you break the wire you've created a tougher "fixing" problem.
2) Do NOT use any laquer thinner to clean with . This will dissolve the
insulating coating. You need to keep things dry.
Use compressed air to blow all grit out. Retest with the ohm meter. You
should see a fairly steady change in resistance as the arm is moved from one
extreme position to the other.
Put the lid back on, making sure there is a good gasket.
Roger
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 10:20:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
Check the voltage across the battery with a digital voltmeter while the
engine is running. If the voltage rises above, say 15 VDC when you
accelerate, you probably have a bad voltage regulator. If things are right
with the world, the voltage should rise as you accelerate and then stop
rising at something between 14-15 Volts.
---
Lee Mairs
'62 Mk II Tri-carb
---
The only options open for girls then were, of course, mother, secretary,
or teacher...I must say how lucky we are, as women, to live in an age where
"Dental Hygienist" has been added to the list.
--Roseanne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hatcher, Bob" <hatcher@shoalhaven.nsw.gov.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 12:20 AM
Subject: FW: Fuel Gage Flutter
>
> Now that this original discussion has had a little time to be answered,
may
> I add a variation to the problem and see if it's the same thing or
something
> different. On my BN1 the fuel gauge dips dramatically when the throttle
is
> opened and goes to the other extreme and reads high when the foot is
lifted
> off the throttle. The only way to get a reasonable readout is with a
gentle
> throttle pressure.
> Can anyone advise if this is same problem or something entirely different?
> If the latter, can anyone suggest a fix?
> Bob Hatcher
> Nowra, Australia
> 54BN1
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Murphy, David (Southfield) [mailto:david.murphy@honeywell.com]
> Sent: Monday, 11 December 2000 9:53 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Fuel Gage Flutter
>
>
> The needle on the fuel gage of my BJ8 bounces around wildly when the car
is
> being operated at anything less than a full tank.
> As I read this complaint in a 1960's road test of a BJ8, I'm wondering if
> this is normal?
> Can it be remedied to register all fuel levels more correctly and
> dependably? If so how? Or should I live with this quirk?
>
> Dave Murphy
> Dearborn Michigan
> 66BJ8
From "Robert Barback" <tippytoo at eatel.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 20:00:53 -0600
Subject: RE: Fuel Gauge Cap.
Check Radio Shack 4700 uf / 16 v or 25 v couple a bucks ... Robert
From jclose at sduhsd.k12.ca.us
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 09:24:56 -0800
Subject: Re[2]: Fuel Gage Flutter
John - My mal-functioning Moss sender came with installation notes which state:
"...The very nature of this design is such that the hollow rheostat cavity will
fill with fuel. This does not pose a safety hazard as long as the cover plate is
in place."
So, it doesn't sound to me like the unit is sealed. What are your thoughts on
this? Is this how most senders work? - JohnC
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 08:19:05 -0800
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
John that's good enough for me, right or wrong...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Harper" <john@jharper.demon.co.uk>
To: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 1:08 AM
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
>
> >>The needle on the fuel gage of my BJ8 bounces around wildly when the car
is
> >>being operated at anything less than a full tank.
> >>
> >------------
> >
> >I always heard you could put a capacitor in parallel with the variable
> >resistor to make a simple timing circuit, which should dampen the
> >oscillations, but have never gotten around to trying it myself. I guess
I
> >like the meter bouncing around, it reminds me to check it more often<g>
> >
> I feel the need here to repeat an earlier warning. I admit that what I
> am about to say is just theory but personally I would never add a
> capicitor to the fuel guage circuit.
>
> If one studies the float unit you will see that it is sealed above the
> slider and resistor element. In fact it is theoretically possible to
> immerse the whole electric contact/slider system in petrol/gas.
>
> Now any moving electical contact will produce sparks which are not a
> good thing to mix with fuel and air.
>
> I once discussed this with an explosives expert and he told me that it
> takes a certain amount of energy in a spark to ignite fuel and he
> assumed that the Austin Healey fuel gauge system had been designed so
> that this level could not be reached.
>
> Now if one starts adding capacitors which by their nature store up
> energy one could perhaps create enough energy in the spark in the top of
> the float unit to ignite the fuel.
>
> As I say just theory but I for one would not risk it.
>
> All the best
> --
> John Harper
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 08:23:02 -0800
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
Not to discount your concerns John, but the cap isn't storing any more
potential than is already there across the resistor during normal
operation. It just slows the voltage bleed down process.
Also, I was rethinking Adnan's 10 second time and think it's probably far
too long. All we are trying to accomplish is a damping of the movement. I
would think a time closer to .25 seconds would be sufficient, cutting the
required cap size by a factor of 40.
My tank is full at the moment, but next time I get it down some I'll try
clipping a cap onto the meter in the garage and try rocking the car to see
what happens with the needle.
-------------------------------
At 01:08 AM 12/12/2000, you wrote:
> >
> >>The needle on the fuel gage of my BJ8 bounces around wildly when the car is
> >>being operated at anything less than a full tank.
> >>
> >------------
> >
> >I always heard you could put a capacitor in parallel with the variable
> >resistor to make a simple timing circuit, which should dampen the
> >oscillations, but have never gotten around to trying it myself. I guess I
> >like the meter bouncing around, it reminds me to check it more often<g>
> >
>I feel the need here to repeat an earlier warning. I admit that what I
>am about to say is just theory but personally I would never add a
>capicitor to the fuel guage circuit.
>
>If one studies the float unit you will see that it is sealed above the
>slider and resistor element. In fact it is theoretically possible to
>immerse the whole electric contact/slider system in petrol/gas.
>
>Now any moving electical contact will produce sparks which are not a
>good thing to mix with fuel and air.
>
>I once discussed this with an explosives expert and he told me that it
>takes a certain amount of energy in a spark to ignite fuel and he
>assumed that the Austin Healey fuel gauge system had been designed so
>that this level could not be reached.
>
>Now if one starts adding capacitors which by their nature store up
>energy one could perhaps create enough energy in the spark in the top of
>the float unit to ignite the fuel.
>
>As I say just theory but I for one would not risk it.
>
>All the best
>--
>John Harper
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 08:49:43 -0800
Subject: Re[2]: Fuel Gage Flutter
I have never taken apart my sender unit, but it'd be preferable to have it
full of fuel as opposed to having fumes in the area of possible arcing.
Gasoline doesn't burn, gasoline vapor does. If you could submerge a lit
match into a container of gasoline fast enough, it will put the match out.
-----------------------------
At 09:24 AM 12/12/2000, you wrote:
>John - My mal-functioning Moss sender came with installation notes which
>state:
>
>"...The very nature of this design is such that the hollow rheostat cavity
>will
>fill with fuel. This does not pose a safety hazard as long as the cover
>plate is
>in place."
>
>So, it doesn't sound to me like the unit is sealed. What are your thoughts on
>this? Is this how most senders work? - JohnC
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 12:10:40 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
In a message dated 12/12/00 6:39:30 AM, Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
<<
And I am baffled (heh heh) why more folks simply don't use their tripometers
as fuel guages--unless of course they are inoperative....
Michael Oritt, BN1 >>
My views, too. I know that I get between 17 and 20 miles to the gallon,
which equates to a safe maximum of 200 miles. I also know that I've set my
gas gauge float so that it reads empty when the tank really is empty. That
means the gauge pretty much stays on Full for about 100 miles. When the
needle comes off full and starts waving around, it reminds me to start
thinking about where I'm going to stop for gas.
Haven't run out of gas yet.
Gary
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 16:54:00 +0000
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
In message <0012129766.AA976634728@ntsmtp1.sduhsd.k12.ca.us>,
jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us writes
>
>John - My mal-functioning Moss sender came with installation notes which state:
>
>"...The very nature of this design is such that the hollow rheostat cavity will
>fill with fuel. This does not pose a safety hazard as long as the cover plate
>is
>in place."
>
>So, it doesn't sound to me like the unit is sealed. What are your thoughts on
>this? Is this how most senders work? - JohnC
>
>
John
On the sender/float unit that we are discussing there is no positive
seal around the shaft which rotates when the float rises and falls. On a
Austin-Healey with the unit sunk into the top of the tank this shaft can
be below the level of the fuel when the tank is full. However a more
extreme example is on cars such as A70 Hampshire where the unit is in
the side of the tank. So the Moss installation note is quite correct.
Sealing is achieved by a gasket under the cap as Roger Moment has
described recently and by special fuel proof washers around the
connection terminal.
By the way Mike Salter has reminded me of another not so funny incident.
When the A50 Saloon was first introduced there were quite a lot of rear
end fires taking place during delivery which rather alarmed the powers
that be at BMC when they realised that this was not a one-off. There was
a panic investigation and what was found was that fuel fumes could build
up around the top of the vertical fuel tank where the SU electric fuel
pump was located. You can guess the rest of the story. All cars were
recalled and modifications were rapidly made before customers could use
their cars. So it is not just "after-sales" modifications that can make
cars lethal. The manufacturers are quite capable of designing this in.
Oh - and by the way no delivery drivers were hurt but they did
experience either severe shock or severe embarrasment of seeing the
brand new car that they were responsible for delivering, disappear in
flames at the side of the road.
All the best
--
John Harper
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 14:15:43 -0600
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
when the fuel pump starts whirring incessantly, that's the Smiths alarm which
indicates you're out of gas !!
----- Original Message -----
From: Editorgary@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Fuel Gage Flutter
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 12:10:40 EST
In a message dated 12/12/00 6:39:30 AM, Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
<<
And I am baffled (heh heh) why more folks simply don't use their tripometers
as fuel guages--unless of course they are inoperative....
Michael Oritt, BN1 >>
My views, too. I know that I get between 17 and 20 miles to the gallon,
which equates to a safe maximum of 200 miles. I also know that I've set my
gas gauge float so that it reads empty when the tank really is empty. That
means the gauge pretty much stays on Full for about 100 miles. When the
needle comes off full and starts waving around, it reminds me to start
thinking about where I'm going to stop for gas.
Haven't run out of gas yet.
Gary
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 16:32:47 -0600
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
Hi Michael
Yes, your guideline is the one I use - small exception I refill at either 160
miles straight city (18 mpg) or 200 miles for highway trips (24-25 mpg) given a
12 gallon tank which leaves a small margin. This was done after running out
when the gauge read 1/4 full - never again.
Kind regards
Ed
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 12/12/00 1:48:54 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> neilberg@telus.net writes:
>
> << The tanks are unbaffled and the gauge is undamped >>
>
> And I am baffled (heh heh) why more folks simply don't use their tripometers
> as fuel guages--unless of course they are inoperative....
>
> Michael Oritt, BN1
From Sprite60 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 17:38:52 EST
Subject: Re: Safety Under the Car
In 1972 I was under my MGB on a scissors jack. It started making funny
noises and rocking. I got out just before it dropped to the floor. I have
NEVER been under a car again unless it was on a lift or had jackstands to
support it.
LARRY G
AN5 x 3
BJ 8
From "Murphy, David (Southfield)" <david.murphy at honeywell.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 17:49:40 -0700
Subject: RE: Fuel Gage Flutter
Roger,
Thanks for the great description of how the sending unit works and how to
clean it!
Because of your description of things, the cause of such a fuel gage flutter
in many folks cars might be due to a bad contact situation and not just wild
float movement.
And it makes me think that fuel sloshing is NOT the cause of flutter in my
fuel gage. Here's why I think that way:
If there was good contact between the wiper and the coil then the fuel
sloshing would cause the gage needle to oscilate about the actual level of
fuel in the tank. I.e. as the tank level approaches empty it should
oscillate between say 1/4 and empty.
Instead the needle in my fuel gage always oscillates between full and some
lower level(probably a level just below the true level).
Dirty contacts in the sender unit might be a cause of such flutter, because,
loss of contact increases resistance and would (based on your stated
resistance value of 2 ohms for empty and 85 ohms for full) tend to make the
gage read full whenever contact was lost.
But I think in my car, the trouble may be in the gage itself. I'd almost
forgotten that tapping the face of the gage with a finger nail(without the
car running) causes the needle to immediately jump from the true reading to
"full". I believe it stays at full until the key is turned off. I'm not sure
how the gage works. Does the gage also have something in it that might
result in the same oscillating needle situation due to poor contact?
Dave Murphy
Dearborn Mi
BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Rmoment@aol.com [mailto:Rmoment@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 9:58 AM
To: john@jharper.demon.co.uk; bkatz@handsonresearch.com
Cc:
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
Flutter of the fuel gage is usually caused by poor contact betweent lhe
sewwper blades andl the wire coil int he sender unit. This is easy to
verify
by removing the sendingl unit and checking its resistance with an ohm meter
while moving lthe float arm. Youl need to move the arm slowly as digital
meters take readings at intervals andl you need to see successive readings
to
tell hwat's going on. Analog meters (with dial faces and a sweep
needle/pointer) will show the changes in resistance a bit easier.
aNyhow, it is not likely that the sweep arms have lost their pressure
against
the wire co8il. Rather, the wire coil has gotten dirty and the arms lose
contact as they sweep along its sides. Before trying to effect any repair,
you MUST understand the design and materials used.
First, the wire is extriemely fine laquer-coated copper, coiled in one layer
around an insulating tube/core. If you envision a crossection of the coils
nesting next to each other, eachis insulated formt helnext by the laquer
coating. The top "surface" of the coil has peaks and valleys as you move
from coil to coil. In manufacture, the peaks are sanded lightly to remove
the laquer coating and expose the copper wire. This does not short out
between coils, but merely lets the sweeper blade touch their outer surface.
One end of hte wire is soldered to the terminal post. The other end has its
inslulation stripped from about 1/4" and is jammed between the inslulating
collet/sleeve (that the "hot" post passes through ) and the metal body. It
is extremely important that you have a good ground between the body/gas tank
and car or the sending unit won't work.
At "full" poslition, I believe the total resistance is around 85 ohms, and
at
"empty it is around 2 ohms. MAke sure your ohm meter leads are making good
contact tot he "hot" post and unit body whenl you check the resistance.
If the resistance jumps around as you sweep the float arm, then to clean the
coils Isuggest the following.
1) Remove the lid. NOTE: all screws on the unit are BA thread (and the
six
attaching it to the tank as well), so don't lose them! Also, try to avoid
damaging the gasket, though this can be replaced if needed.
2) Use a very find wet/dry paper and cut a little strip about 1/4 - 1/2"
wide. I would use 1000 grit. Also, get a thin piece of brass or steel shim
stock to use as a support to press the sand paper against the side of the
coil.
3) Position the sweep blades at one end of the coil and work on the far
"half". Gently move the 1000 grit paper, backed by the brass shim back and
forth across the coils. A few sweeps should be enough. Remember, if you
sand away too much of the "peaks" you can end up with adjacent coils
shorting
to each other. You're just trying to clean up the coil's swept surface.
Place a piece of 1000 grit paper along the full length of the coil, with the
grit facing the sweep arm. Move the arm to clean its rubbing surface. Do
this to the other side as well.
Two calutions:
1) Watch out for the stand of coil wire that runs fromt he far end to the
front. If you break the wire you've created a tougher "fixing" problem.
2) Do NOT use any laquer thinner to clean with . This will dissolve the
insulating coating. You need to keep things dry.
Use compressed air to blow all grit out. Retest with the ohm meter. You
should see a fairly steady change in resistance as the arm is moved from one
extreme position to the other.
Put the lid back on, making sure there is a good gasket.
Roger
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 21:43:42 -0800
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
At 09:08 AM 12/12/00 +0000, you wrote:
>I feel the need here to repeat an earlier warning.....
>If one studies the float unit you will see that it is sealed above the
>slider and resistor element. In fact it is theoretically possible to
>immerse the whole electric contact/slider system in petrol/gas....
>
>All the best
>--
>John Harper
I have removed the top of my sender unit, whilst attached to the tank, and
have noted it to be full of petrol.
Not just theory. Glad to know DMH was thinking about our safety!
John
'62 BT7 MKII
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 08:04:25 -0600
Subject: List Help and Upholstering
Thanks to all who replied to my message. I don't know what the problem was
but apparently it has been solved. Now to the message I tried to post
previously:
I have decided to try to cover the quarter panels behind the seats on my
BN7. These are the ones that go over the wheel wells. I have all of the
wood pieces and the vinyl to do the job (obtained as a "kit" from Moss
motors") Two of the wood pieces were completely deteriorated so I made
mirror images of the "good" ones. Moss sent the "luan" panels and a roll of
vinyl as a "kit". The question is now, how do these things go together?
Has anyone ever done this job and do you have any recommendations or words
of wisdom?
I had some pictures that someone sent me a long time ago but they were on my
hard drive and got chewed up by the "lovebug". So I would appreciate all
the help I can get as I am a novice at trying to cover things. (Did a
halfway job on my dashboard, but still need help).
Thanks again
Don
BN7
God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
difference.
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 09:47:36 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
In a message dated 12/12/2000 11:17:16 PM Mountain Standard Time,
jmsdarch@infoasis.com writes:
<<
>I feel the need here to repeat an earlier warning.....
>If one studies the float unit you will see that it is sealed above the
>slider and resistor element. In fact it is theoretically possible to
>immerse the whole electric contact/slider system in petrol/gas....
>
>All the best
>--
>John Harper
I have removed the top of my sender unit, whilst attached to the tank, and
have noted it to be full of petrol.
Not just theory. Glad to know DMH was thinking about our safety!
>>
I believe the top plate gasket is to keep fumes from escaping the tank/sender
"chamber" and get into the boot.
I have not been able to detect any seal around the pivot shaft at the bottom
of the sender. Thus, I believe the sending unit is designed to operate with
fuel in the cavity.
These units have been in use for many years. I have not heard of them being
the cause for explosions of gas tanks. Thus, I suspect that there is no
sparking danger.
If you look at the engineering of the sender, you find that the coil runs
from the "hot" terminal to ground; the sender case. This coil is
electrically in series with the coil in the gage. The gage coil has a
resistance of 95 or 150 ohms, measured to ground, depending on which of the
two terminals you measure from. Add this to the 90 ohms of the sender coil
andlyou have a total circuit resistance of around 180 ohms or more.
With an energizing voltage of 12 volts, the current flowing through the
circuit, including the coil in the sender, is on the order of 0.07 amps.
Now the sweeper in the sender serves to "short out" the sender's coil to
ground at various positions of the blades. I suspect that the voltages and
currents involved are not sufficient to cause a spark to jump any gaps
between the blades and coil.
So, I don't think there is the risk that one might suppose at first glance.
And it was NOT the Donald HEaley Motor Company, or even Austin or BMC that
put us at any risk. Smiths, I believe, designed the subsystem, and the motor
companies selected it to put into their cars, presumably based on a
combination of successful performance/operation (you can also read safety)
and cost.
Roger
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 10:08:23 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
In a message dated 12/12/00 9:13:05 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<<
My views, too. I know that I get between 17 and 20 miles to the gallon,
which equates to a safe maximum of 200 miles. I also know that I've set my
gas gauge float so that it reads empty when the tank really is empty. That
means the gauge pretty much stays on Full for about 100 miles. When the
needle comes off full and starts waving around, it reminds me to start
thinking about where I'm going to stop for gas.
Haven't run out of gas yet.
>>
Me either. I don't want to eliminate the flutter in my gas gauge needle.
It's part of the charm of a vintage car. Part of the patina.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 10:25:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Dashboard vinyl
Roger,
Ambla? The same imprinted material as for the front and rear seat inserts?
Are you 100% sure on this one Roger? Have never noticed this on the many
cars I have seen over the years! All that I have seen have been leather
grained vinyl?!?!
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2000 9:22 AM
Subject: Re: Dashboard vinyl
>
> In a message dated 12/08/2000 7:37:53 PM Mountain Standard Time,
> Editorgary@aol.com writes:
>
> <<
> Off the top of my head, memory says that the crash pad and door top pads
on
> the BJ8 are both black. >>
>
> Correct. And the dash top material was ambla, the same soft vinyl used on
the
> seats.
>
> Roger
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 07:43:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter -
I'm not convinced that my fuel gage inaccuracies are
caused by the sender or the Prince of Darkness alone.
I may be part to blame. Last year in an attempt to
clean the gages I loosened two brass flat head
adjusting screws on the back side of the gage (BN7).
Realizing my error, I attempted to set them back to
their original position (based on dirt and plating
marks), but the gage still resists going to the full
position. A few more feeble attempts to adjust the
gage resulted in the realization that I didn't know
what I was adjusting, or how it worked. Any thoughts
on how to properly tune this thing? I think the back
looked something like this:
// \\
0 0
// \\
Dean
BN7
--- Rmoment@aol.com wrote:
>
> Flutter of the fuel gage is usually caused by poor
> contact betweent lhe
> sewwper blades andl the wire coil int he sender
> unit.
__________________________________________________
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 10:44:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
> Very interesting...the cap. thingy. Does anyone know what value that might
> be and where the best palace to install it...Neil
/healey
My suggestion would be Buckingham Place or Place of Versailles! :)
Sorry Neil couldn't resist
Keith Pennell
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 11:59:13 EST
Subject: Re: Dashboard vinyl
In a message dated 12/13/00 7:28:36 AM, pennell@whro.net writes:
<< Roger,
Ambla? The same imprinted material as for the front and rear seat inserts?
Are you 100% sure on this one Roger? Have never noticed this on the many
cars I have seen over the years! All that I have seen have been leather
grained vinyl?!?!
Keith Pennell >>
I'm sure that Roger will get to this soon, but in the event he is off-line...
Ambla is a type of vinyl with a particular grain pattern. It's a little
thinner, with a grain pattern not so pronounced as Leathercloth (which was
what was used in previous models). It doesn't always have the pressed-in
imprints. That's only done on the Ambla that is being used on the seats. In
fact, a different, quilted, pattern is pressed in on the Ambla used in the
tonneau area.
Cheers
Gary
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 11:10:19 -0600
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
is dthere any possibility that fuel guage flutter may be running a close second
in duration to firestone tires, however, without the vehemance ?
don't forget to order your texas koolers at full price for xmas gifts for your
loved ones or a winter project. now is the time to get ready for koooool
spring driving. check them out on
www.ntahc.austin1.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>,
"Bill Katz"
<bkatz@handsonresearch.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Fuel Gage Flutter
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 10:44:39 -0500
> Very interesting...the cap. thingy. Does anyone know what value that might
> be and where the best palace to install it...Neil
/healey
My suggestion would be Buckingham Place or Place of Versailles! :)
Sorry Neil couldn't resist
Keith Pennell
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 14:09:25 -0500
Subject: One owner BT7 for sale.
I have a one owner 57K miles BT7 for sale in the $US23K range. Anyone
interested please contact me off line.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 13:42:40 -0600
Subject: Non Healey content? - emergency brake
Hi Fellows
Well it's -30C here in Saskatoon. The following joke arrive just now
from a friend in the US Fish and
Wildlife Service. I had a chuckle especially thinking of the emergence
brake in my BJ8, enjoy!
An Amish lady was driving her horse drawn buggy to town with her young
son when she was stopped by a highway patrol officer. "I'm not going to
cite you" said the officer, "I just wanted to warn you that the
reflector on the back of your buggy is broken and it could be
dangerous." "I thank thee" said the Amish lady, " I shall have my
husband repair it as soon as we return home."
"Also," said the officer, "I noticed that one of the reins to your
horse is tied around the horse's testicles. Some might consider this to
be 'cruelty to animals' so you'd best have your husband check this.
too." "Again I thank thee," said the Amish lady, "I shall have my
husband check this also when I return home."
True to her word, when the Amish lady got home she told her husband
about the broken reflector and her husband said he would repair it
immediately. "Also," said the Amish lady, "the policeman said there was
something wrong with our emergence brake."
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 15:54:14 -0500
Subject: Oil Seal
I've heard of an engine rear main oil seal. I will be removing the engine
in my BJ8 soon and wanted to add that mod if possible. anyone help me with
info? I heard that Dave Nock had some oil seal device.
Also, what other neat things should I do while the engine is out. We are
going to check rings, the crank shaft, etc. Anything to do to enhance
performance just a little?
TIA
Tom
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 11:35:11 -0000
Subject: Re Sebring Car Auction 767 KNX
Re Sebring Car Auction 767 KNX
More information on my WEB Site.
The World War II Spitfire is I understand almost up for one million UK
Pounds at auction.
Regards
David
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 10:45:49 +1100
Subject: BT7 Identification
Greetings
A friend is in the process of restoring an early BT7 Mk2 (with side shift
gearbox) that came to Australia from New Mexico and would like to identify the
car. He has yet to try BL Heritage.
Unfortunately the car does not carry its ID plate but does have the following:
B555 - stamped on the boot lid
1888 - stamped on the chassis. (Beneath the steering idler box when it was LHD
- now under the steering box after conversion to RHD)
14318 11/43 - stamped on the differential housing
Can anyone assist?
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 19:53:23 EST
Subject: Re: Dashboard vinyl
Well, I may be wrong as to it being Ambla, but:
1) the dash top material on BJ8s is NOT the hard leathercloth used on prior
roadsters
2) I've seen various grades of vinyls used and the one on the dash top may
be slightly different than that used on seats. However, it does have a
fairly lightly embossed leather pattern to it.
3) The black vinyl covering I've seen on the door top edges seems to be of
lesser quality and a bit stiffer than Ambla. However, I don't believe it has
a heavily embossed leather grain to it.
Maybe someone with an original BJ8 (at least as far as the dash top, console,
and door edging) can look critically at these materials and give us a
description to guide you. What we need to know is:
a) stiffenss/softness of the vinyls
b) "strength" of the leather grain pattern
c) apparent "weight"/thickness/durability of the vinyls.
Roger
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 18:19:17 -0800
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
It's not over yet Jerry...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <pennell@whro.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2000 9:10 AM
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
>
> is dthere any possibility that fuel guage flutter may be running a close
second in duration to firestone tires, however, without the vehemance ?
>
> don't forget to order your texas koolers at full price for xmas gifts for
your loved ones or a winter project. now is the time to get ready for
koooool spring driving. check them out on
> www.ntahc.austin1.com
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
> To: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>,
> "Bill Katz"
> <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Fuel Gage Flutter
> Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 10:44:39 -0500
>
>
> > Very interesting...the cap. thingy. Does anyone know what value that
might
> > be and where the best palace to install it...Neil
> /healey
>
> My suggestion would be Buckingham Place or Place of Versailles! :)
>
> Sorry Neil couldn't resist
> Keith Pennell
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 18:29:28 -0800
Subject: Re: Oil Seal
I recently installed the rear main seal you are asking about. I followed
the instructions carefully. After 25 miles, I had a small drip coming out
of the clutch housing. (I also installed a new seal on the transmission
input shaft.)
When I mentioned this to a friend who builds very successful 100-4 engines
for competition (mine is a 3000), he said the leak comes from the two
vertical, round, felt seals at the sides of the rear main bearing cap.
I would appreciate any comments that relate to experience with the rear
main seal, and the comments on the felt seals.
John Snyder
----------
> From: tom felts <tfelts@prodigy.net>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Oil Seal
> Date: Wednesday, December 13, 2000 12:54 PM
>
>
> I've heard of an engine rear main oil seal. I will be removing the
engine
> in my BJ8 soon and wanted to add that mod if possible. anyone help me
with
> info? I heard that Dave Nock had some oil seal device.
>
> Also, what other neat things should I do while the engine is out. We are
> going to check rings, the crank shaft, etc. Anything to do to enhance
> performance just a little?
>
> TIA
> Tom
From Steve Dupus <stevsgarage at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 18:57:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Oil Seal
John Snyder <johnahsn@olypen.com> wrote:
I recently installed the rear main seal you are asking about. I followed
the instructions carefully. After 25 miles, I had a small drip coming out
of the clutch housing. (I also installed a new seal on the transmission
input shaft.)
When I mentioned this to a friend who builds very successful 100-4 engines
for competition (mine is a 3000), he said the leak comes from the two
vertical, round, felt seals at the sides of the rear main bearing cap.
I would appreciate any comments that relate to experience with the rear
main seal, and the comments on the felt seals.
John Snyder
----------
> From: tom felts
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Oil Seal
> Date: Wednesday, December 13, 2000 12:54 PM
>
>
> I've heard of an engine rear main oil seal. I will be removing the
engine
> in my BJ8 soon and wanted to add that mod if possible. anyone help me
with
> info? I heard that Dave Nock had some oil seal device.
>
> Also, what other neat things should I do while the engine is out. We are
> going to check rings, the crank shaft, etc. Anything to do to enhance
> performance just a little?
>
> TIA
> Tom
In my experiance in building Sprite engines,the rear seal kit works well but if
the original screw seal is working before you tear down the engine you probable
don't need to waiste the money, I'd recomend saving it for a cam!
Steve
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 22:07:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil Seal
Hi, John -
When I had the engine in my BJ8 rebuilt last year, I had the machinist
install the Moss rear seal kit for me. After almost 10,000 miles, I don't
have any leaks at all.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: John Snyder <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: tom felts <tfelts@prodigy.net>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, December 13, 2000 9:55 PM
Subject: Re: Oil Seal
>
>I recently installed the rear main seal you are asking about. I followed
>the instructions carefully. After 25 miles, I had a small drip coming out
>of the clutch housing. (I also installed a new seal on the transmission
>input shaft.)
>
>When I mentioned this to a friend who builds very successful 100-4 engines
>for competition (mine is a 3000), he said the leak comes from the two
>vertical, round, felt seals at the sides of the rear main bearing cap.
>
>I would appreciate any comments that relate to experience with the rear
>main seal, and the comments on the felt seals.
>
>John Snyder
>
>----------
>> From: tom felts <tfelts@prodigy.net>
>> To: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Oil Seal
>> Date: Wednesday, December 13, 2000 12:54 PM
>>
>>
>> I've heard of an engine rear main oil seal. I will be removing the
>engine
>> in my BJ8 soon and wanted to add that mod if possible. anyone help me
>with
>> info? I heard that Dave Nock had some oil seal device.
>>
>> Also, what other neat things should I do while the engine is out. We are
>> going to check rings, the crank shaft, etc. Anything to do to enhance
>> performance just a little?
>>
>> TIA
>> Tom
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 19:21:57 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil Seal
I stayed stock when I overhauled my BJ8 last winter and just put it together
very carefully. Now 1200 miles later it appears dry and working properly.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Dupus" <stevsgarage@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2000 7:57 PM
Subject: Re: Oil Seal
>
> John Snyder <johnahsn@olypen.com> wrote:
>
>
> I recently installed the rear main seal you are asking about. I followed
> the instructions carefully. After 25 miles, I had a small drip coming out
> of the clutch housing. (I also installed a new seal on the transmission
> input shaft.)
>
> When I mentioned this to a friend who builds very successful 100-4 engines
> for competition (mine is a 3000), he said the leak comes from the two
> vertical, round, felt seals at the sides of the rear main bearing cap.
>
> I would appreciate any comments that relate to experience with the rear
> main seal, and the comments on the felt seals.
>
> John Snyder
>
> ----------
> > From: tom felts
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Oil Seal
> > Date: Wednesday, December 13, 2000 12:54 PM
> >
> >
> > I've heard of an engine rear main oil seal. I will be removing the
> engine
> > in my BJ8 soon and wanted to add that mod if possible. anyone help me
> with
> > info? I heard that Dave Nock had some oil seal device.
> >
> > Also, what other neat things should I do while the engine is out. We are
> > going to check rings, the crank shaft, etc. Anything to do to enhance
> > performance just a little?
> >
> > TIA
> > Tom
>
> In my experiance in building Sprite engines,the rear seal kit works well
but if the original screw seal is working before you tear down the engine
you probable don't need to waiste the money, I'd recomend saving it for a
cam!
>
> Steve
From Chris & Dawne Yusi <chris at ucbrothers.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 19:57:25 -0800
Subject: Re: BT7 Identification
Patrick,
I had to ID my stolen BT7 Mk2 with the police, about six months ago.
I've been told that there are no longer any records for that number
on the frame by the steering box. But the differential housing
number alone (axle number) will give him the actual chassis number
for his car. He's just got to be willing to spend about $40 US on a
BMIHT certificate. If the gearbox is original, it will also have a
number that matches the BMIHT cert.
The British Motor Industry Heritage Trust offers a service that will validate
the number that you provide to them and will supply you with the date
of production and body and trim color information from production reports for
Austin Healeys (except 100S) produced from 1953 to 1971. The report is an
attractive certificate suitable for framing.
Send you car make, model, year and chassis and/or body number along with
$40.00 to:
Archivist
The British Motor Industry Heritage Trust
Banbury Road, Gaydon
Warwick, England CV35 0BJ
I can't seem to find their phone number, but heir URL is:
http://home1.gte.net/spitlist/BMIHT.htm
My car is chassis number H-BT7-L/15086, and the axle number is close
to your friend's (14049). My original gearbox was #13505. It was
built and sold in Sept. and Oct. 1961.
There is also quite a good Tricarb registry, kept by Bill Bolton
<TRICARB@aol.com> He may be able to give you more information on the
car, but I doubt he'd be able to bring up the chassis number for you.
Hope this helps,
- Chris
At 10:45 AM +1100 12/14/00, Patrick QUINN wrote:
>Greetings
>
>A friend is in the process of restoring an early BT7 Mk2 (with side
>shift gearbox) that came to Australia from New Mexico and would like
>to identify the car. He has yet to try BL Heritage.
>
>Unfortunately the car does not carry its ID plate but does have the following:
>
>B555 - stamped on the boot lid
>
>1888 - stamped on the chassis. (Beneath the steering idler box when
>it was LHD - now under the steering box after conversion to RHD)
>
>14318 11/43 - stamped on the differential housing
>
>Can anyone assist?
>
>Regards
>
>Patrick Quinn
>Sydney, Australia
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 18:58:32 -0800
Subject: Re: BT7 Identification
Patrick, my BT7 Mk2 side shift was built in June of 61 with a diff. number
of 12540-1143. Later that year or early 62 they went to a top loader, I
would guess it's a late 61...Neil
Just checked and the top loader came into being in nov 61, so I guess I was
close enough...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2000 3:45 PM
Subject: BT7 Identification
>
> Greetings
>
> A friend is in the process of restoring an early BT7 Mk2 (with side shift
gearbox) that came to Australia from New Mexico and would like to identify
the car. He has yet to try BL Heritage.
>
> Unfortunately the car does not carry its ID plate but does have the
following:
>
> B555 - stamped on the boot lid
>
> 1888 - stamped on the chassis. (Beneath the steering idler box when it was
LHD - now under the steering box after conversion to RHD)
>
> 14318 11/43 - stamped on the differential housing
>
> Can anyone assist?
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 02:48:38 -0500
Subject: Re: BT7 Identification
----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick QUINN <QUINNP@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2000 6:45 PM
Subject: BT7 Identification
>
> Greetings
>
> A friend is in the process of restoring an early BT7 Mk2 (with side shift
gearbox) that came to Australia from New Mexico and would like to identify
the car. He has yet to try BL Heritage.
>
> Unfortunately the car does not carry its ID plate but does have the
following:
>
> B555 - stamped on the boot lid
>
> 1888 - stamped on the chassis. (Beneath the steering idler box when it was
LHD - now under the steering box after conversion to RHD)
>
> 14318 11/43 - stamped on the differential housing
All I can tell you is the 11/43 identifies the rear end as a 3.9 rear as
fitted to a overdrive car.
>
> Can anyone assist?
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 17:46:08 +0000
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
Roger
>With an energizing voltage of 12 volts, the current flowing through the
>circuit, including the coil in the sender, is on the order of 0.07 amps.
>
I agree but I have seen many senders where the windings have been worn
right through and become open circuit which somewhat changes the
situation as the wiper makes or breaks circuit.
>Now the sweeper in the sender serves to "short out" the sender's coil to
>ground at various positions of the blades. I suspect that the voltages and
>currents involved are not sufficient to cause a spark to jump any gaps
>between the blades and coil.
>
What I do not wish to get into here is how many joules of energy could
be stored in a given size of capacitor under all operational and fault
conditions. I could do this bit but I am not qualified to tell you what
combination of fuel vapour, air and spark energy would ignite the fuel
and whether we would be anywhere near this danger zone. All I know is
that I would feel unhappy if I had not put on record some sort of
warning and let others make their own decision. I now feel that I have
done my duty and do not regret saying what I did.
Roger, I hope that you are not trying to say that there is no risk at
all in adding a capacitor into the fuel gauge circuit? If you are you
are taking on a tremendous responsibility!
>So, I don't think there is the risk that one might suppose at first glance.
>And it was NOT the Donald HEaley Motor Company, or even Austin or BMC that
>put us at any risk. Smiths, I believe, designed the subsystem, and the motor
>companies selected it to put into their cars, presumably based on a
>combination of successful performance/operation (you can also read safety)
>and cost.
Yes you are quite correct. I was somewhat simplifying what I said before
but you will recall that I also mentioned the A70 Hampshire. As designed
the system is obviously safe as 50 or so years of use have proved.
Problems however could occur if one tries to modify the design without
first embarking on a serious design and tolerancing exercise.
All the best
--
John Harper
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 12:09:59 -0000
Subject: Getrag gearboxes
Have been watching correspondence on gearbox replacements lately.
With interest , but not as potential project.
I recall someone saying that the Getrag, BMW??, boxes currently
on the market all have their roots in a load that were\are
factory warranty rejects. I am unaware as to what N.American
suppliers have, but I just mentioned this to my preferred UK
supplier, Cape International, who is certainly the only UK
supplier of whom I am aware. They said that this was\could not be
true. At least as far as they are concerned...apparently they
have to start with older units and fit all new parts within.
Simon Lachlan.
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 08:26:06 -0800
Subject: No Healey content just a little Christmas funny....
A Christmas story
==================
Not long ago or far away, Santa was getting ready for his annual trip ...
but there were problems everywhere. Four of his elves got sick,and the
trainee elves did not produce the toys as fast as the regular ones so
Santa was beginning to feel the pressure of being behind schedule. Then
Mrs.
Claus told Santa that her Mom was coming to visit. This stressed Santa
even more. When he went to harness the reindeer, he found that three of them
were about to give birth and two had jumped the fence and were out, heaven
knows
where. More Stress.
Then when he began to load the sleigh, one of the boards cracked and the
toy bag fell to the ground and scattered the toys. Totally frustrated, Santa
went into the house for a cup of coffee and a shot of whiskey. When he went
to the cupboard, he found the elves had hit the liquor and there was
nothing to drink.
In his frustration, he dropped the coffee pot and it broke into hundreds of
little pieces all over the kitchen floor. He went to get the broom and
found that mice had eaten the straw it was made from.
Just then the door bell rang and Santa cussed on his way to the door. He
opened the door and there was a tiny little angel carrying a load that was
500 times his weight: a great big Christmas tree. The angel said: "Where
would you like to put this tree, fat man?"
And that, my friends, is how the little angel came to be on top of the
Christmas tree.
From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 10:56:14 -0700
Subject: Upholstery?
Hi all,
Has anyone installed a Heritage Upholstery kit in their Healey? Any
comments?
Regards Ross
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 15:02:05 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
In a message dated 12/14/2000 1:01:41 AM Mountain Standard Time,
John@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
<<
What I do not wish to get into here is how many joules of energy could
be stored in a given size of capacitor under all operational and fault
conditions. I could do this bit but I am not qualified to tell you what
combination of fuel vapour, air and spark energy would ignite the fuel
and whether we would be anywhere near this danger zone. All I know is
that I would feel unhappy if I had not put on record some sort of
warning and let others make their own decision. I now feel that I have
done my duty and do not regret saying what I did.
Roger, I hope that you are not trying to say that there is no risk at
all in adding a capacitor into the fuel gauge circuit? If you are you
are taking on a tremendous responsibility! >>
Lest there be any misunderstanding, I was NOT(!!!!) suggesting adding a
capacitor to the fuel gage circuit!!! My point was that a properly operating
device, as originally designed and installed, is what you should be pointing
towards, and is fairly easy to achieve. The as-designed fuel gage circuit
should be perfectly safe.
I've spent maky years fixing well-intentioned "improvements" by professional
as well as home mechanics. Some just cause annoyance at finding missing bits
I have to then chase down. Others are dangerous!!
The ONLY capacitor that I've added to Healey electrics is a mylar one to fuel
pumps. The mylar style is very flat and will fit inside the original,
low/flat bakelite cap, and is the equivalent of adding the electrolytic type
(read can style) that was used later (identified by the step-type fuel pump
caps). By ading the myler capacitor, I help preserve the points, and do not
change in any way the operation or appearance of the original pump.
Rogaer
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 16:16:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
"I've spent maky years fixing well-intentioned "improvements" by professional
as well as home mechanics. Some just cause annoyance at finding missing bits
I have to then chase down. Others are dangerous!!"
IMHO Never a truer word was spoken!!!
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Rmoment@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 12/14/2000 1:01:41 AM Mountain Standard Time,
> John@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
>
> <<
> What I do not wish to get into here is how many joules of energy could
> be stored in a given size of capacitor under all operational and fault
> conditions. I could do this bit but I am not qualified to tell you what
> combination of fuel vapour, air and spark energy would ignite the fuel
> and whether we would be anywhere near this danger zone. All I know is
> that I would feel unhappy if I had not put on record some sort of
> warning and let others make their own decision. I now feel that I have
> done my duty and do not regret saying what I did.
>
> Roger, I hope that you are not trying to say that there is no risk at
> all in adding a capacitor into the fuel gauge circuit? If you are you
> are taking on a tremendous responsibility! >>
>
> Lest there be any misunderstanding, I was NOT(!!!!) suggesting adding a
> capacitor to the fuel gage circuit!!! My point was that a properly operating
> device, as originally designed and installed, is what you should be pointing
> towards, and is fairly easy to achieve. The as-designed fuel gage circuit
> should be perfectly safe.
>
> I've spent maky years fixing well-intentioned "improvements" by professional
> as well as home mechanics. Some just cause annoyance at finding missing bits
> I have to then chase down. Others are dangerous!!
>
> The ONLY capacitor that I've added to Healey electrics is a mylar one to fuel
> pumps. The mylar style is very flat and will fit inside the original,
> low/flat bakelite cap, and is the equivalent of adding the electrolytic type
> (read can style) that was used later (identified by the step-type fuel pump
> caps). By ading the myler capacitor, I help preserve the points, and do not
> change in any way the operation or appearance of the original pump.
>
> Rogaer
From l-dkirby <l-dkirby at home.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 13:50:54 -0800
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Axle (rear) serial numbers]
Steve, on my BJ8 35624 when I was restoring the axle I had it down to
bare metal and could not for the life of me find a serial number. Len
"M.E.&E.A. Driver" wrote:
>
> Return-Path: <byers@cconnect.net>
> Received: from raiden.sk.sympatico.ca ([142.165.5.180]) by
> mss-03.fw.sk.sympatico.ca (Netscape Messaging Server 4.15 comet Aug 8
> 2000 13:22:32) with ESMTP id G57RTW02.NOL for
> <edriver@mta-01.sk.sympatico.ca>; Thu, 7 Dec 2000 14:05:56 -0600
> Received: from berlin.cconnect.net (berlin.cconnect.net
> [205.244.97.249]) by raiden.sk.sympatico.ca (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP
> id OAA36883605 for <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>; Thu, 7 Dec 2000 14:05:55
> -0600 (CST)
> Received: from z9n8v5 ([207.42.160.41]) by berlin.cconnect.net
> (Post.Office MTA Undefined release Undefined ID#
> 0-66696U5500L500S0V35) with SMTP id net for <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>;
> Thu, 7 Dec 2000 15:02:36 -0500
> Message-ID: <003001c06088$e93112a0$29a02acf@z9n8v5>
> From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
> To: "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
> Subject: Re: Axle (rear) serial numbers
> Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 15:04:29 -0500
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> X-Priority: 3
> X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
> X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1
> X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3
> X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000
>
> Hi, Ed --
>
> I was giving my subjective impression of the groups, and as I actually count
> them they don't line up in neat thirds.
>
> Of the certificates I have, from HBJ8L/25317 to HBJ8L/36139 (170 of them),
> with very few exceptions (14) they give a rear axle number. Then, from
> 36666 (my own) to 40252 (66 certs), none of them give a rear axle number.
> >From 40335 to 43026 (68 certs), all of them EXCEPT the very last(!) give a
> rear axle number.
>
> I know my axle is not serialized, so how could the cert give one for my car?
> I did notice one interesting thing, though: I have TWO certs for 25447
> because someone who only thought they owned that car got a cert, and the guy
> who actually DID own it got one. One of them gives an axle number, the
> other one doesn't.
>
> Weird, and intriguing. What I really need is for everyone who has a cert
> with a missing axle number to crawl up under their car with a magnifying
> glass and light and report back to me on what they find. Do you think I
> would be successful at that if I post my request to the list? :-)
>
> Happy Healeydays!
> Steve
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: M.E.&E.A. Driver <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
> To: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
> Cc: Austin Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, December 07, 2000 1:49 PM
> Subject: Axle (rear) serial numbers
>
> >
> >Hi Steve
> >
> >Just out of interest what BJ8s are classified as early, middle, and late
> >- in other words between which VIN numbers do each group of these cars
> >fall. Having to deal first with fossil invertebrates then with current
> >invertebrate fauna I've always found classification systems interesting,
> >what criteria did you apply to establish these divisions?
> >
> >Kind regards
> >Ed
> >Saskatoon
From Alex Hope <ahope at jaques.com.au>
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 09:09:21 +1100
Subject: 6 cylinder bumpers
Can Austin A50 bumpers be modified for use on 6 cylinder Healeys ?
At first glance they look the same. When you look closer, the bolt
holes are in different positions and the front one has a crank handle
hole.
Any advice ?
Alex Hope
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 19:13:04 -0500
Subject: Lightened Flywheel
I know there has been some discussion in the past on this subject, but would
anyone care to jot down a few pros/cons about light flywheel use. I think
the BJ8 flywheel weighs about 35 lbs. What can I expect if I go to a 16 lb
one?
TIA Tom
From LBCarNut <LBCarNut at carolina.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 19:18:42 -0500
Subject: For Sale 67 BJ8
Hi Folks,
I am posting this for a computerless friend. Ask any questions and
I will pass them along.
Thanks,
Peter Samaroo
Charlotte NC.
Ideal for Concours Competition or a Collector.
Asking price $53,500.
Here are the details on the car.
1967 Austin Healey 3000 MK III
Metallic Golden Beige
25,624 original miles.
Condition is unrestored but maintained to original specs, to his
knowledge the body panels have never been off.
Dunlop Road Speed Tires (original spare with sticker)
Original jack strap buckle and crimped mufflers
Meadowbrook participant 1990
12 Time Gold Medal/Level 1 winner
Featured in Automobile Quarterly Vol. 24-1987
"Chatter" cover car September 1985/February 1990
Complete History available
The only departures from original are carpet (Martin MacGregor) Everflex
top (Bill Hirsch), front and rear bumpers rechromed ( Martin's of
Philadelphia), The engine bay and Bonnet have been resprayed.
Retired from competition in 1994, prior to that
Gold medallion Conclave Louisville 1993
Gold medallion Conclave Breckenbridge 1992
Gold medallion Conclave Sturbridge 1991
First Place Concours Level 1 Southeastern Classic Little Switzerland
1990
Participant Meadowbrook Hall Councours D'Elegance 1990
Best in Show Conclave Blackhawk Farms 1990
First Place Concours Level 1 Southeastern Classic Atlanta 1989
etc. etc. etc.
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 20:30:31 -0500
Subject: heritage kit installation
Ross,
The kit is staight forward,of excellent quality in materials and
craftsmanship. I've installed jag E type as well as healey , they are
currently making me a kit for a customers TR6.
If you need any help or info feel free to contact me off list.
reguards,
Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations Inc.
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 21:15:40 EST
Subject: Re: 6 cylinder bumpers
In a message dated 12/14/2000 4:16:03 PM Central Standard Time,
ahope@jaques.com.au writes:
<< Can Austin A50 bumpers be modified for use on 6 cylinder Healeys ?>>
Not positive, but seriously doubt it, Alex.
<<At first glance they look the same. When you look closer, the bolt
holes are in different positions >>
er, "possible" clue??
<<and the front one has a crank handle hole. >>
And the last 6 cylinder A-H I saw with a hole through the radiator was NOT
intentional. Road Hazard, and grille, etc. was also TRASH.
<< Any advice ? >>
Have your repaired/rechrome. If you have neither front or rear, but a set of
repros and plan on having them re-plated in two/three years.
Ed
From CEWPlatt at aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 23:21:20 EST
Subject: More BN1 Questions
Greetings,
More questions:
1) The trans cover has sheetmetal screws which attach into the flooring, and
the trans firewall cover has sheetmetal screws into the scuttle. But, does
the firewall cover mount to the trans cover? If so, how? Car came without the
parts and I'm fitting new ones without any old holes to go by.
2) I'm trying to understand the design of the muffler clamps. It's a typical
clamp except one end bends into the gap and restricts the clamp from becoming
completely tight unless it is deformed. Any help?
Thanks for the response from everyone on my last set of questions. This list
is a great resource and I always look forward to the responses.
Best Regards,
Clay Platt
1954 BN1
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 23:00:35 -0600
Subject: Re: Lightened Flywheel
>anyone care to jot down a few pros/cons about light flywheel use. I think
>the BJ8 flywheel weighs about 35 lbs. What can I expect if I go to a 16 lb
>one?
You are right, there has been quite a lot of discussion about this issue
but not for a while.
Changing the weight of the flywheel changes the dynamics of the
engine/drive train of the car. Less rotational weight means less inertial
mass to spin up and spin down. (think of a bicycle with 20 pounds on the
wheel rims or off of the wheel rims). All other variables being the same,
an engine with a lighter flywheel has the potential to rev faster and slow
down faster. The closer to the edge of the flywheel that the material is
removed, the more dramatic the effect.
PROs:
faster revs;
faster slowing down;
very good for racing and rallying
CONs
removing material from a cast iron flywheel can materially effect the
strength of the flywheel;
less inertial weight to maintain smooth slow speed idle;
less inertial weight to maintain smooth cruising speed on the highway;
much more feathering of the clutch when leaving from a standing start inn
order to avoid embarrassing engine kills;
should be rebalanced both separately and as a unit with the crank and
harmonic balancer after weight removal. This means removing crankshaft.
not very good for city driving but depends on how much it is lightened
As far as 16 lbs on your flywheel, you would feel a dramatic difference in
the driving of the car. It will rev faster both up and down. However,
you will find it harder to get the car going from a dead stop. It will be
less smooth at idle. You may loose some of the steadiness of the engine
at cruising speed. You should have your machinist carefully look at the
dimensioning where the material is to be removed. A cast iron flywheel
can be seriously denigrated in strength if overly lightened. You don't
want it exploding next to your legs at 5,000 rpm.
I run a lightened flywheel but it was milled from billet steel.
Best regards
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 23:09:47 -0700
Subject: Re: heritage kit installation
Do you have an address for this company (email would be nice). how are
their prices?
Bill Lawrence
bjcap wrote:
> Ross,
>
> The kit is staight forward,of excellent quality in materials and
> craftsmanship. I've installed jag E type as well as healey , they are
> currently making me a kit for a customers TR6.
>
> If you need any help or info feel free to contact me off list.
> reguards,
> Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations Inc.
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 10:04:54 -0500
Subject: Re; Re: [Fwd: Axle (rear) serial numbers]
Welcome to the club, Len; maybe there's a special BMC
magnifier/viewer that's required!
Stephen, BJ8
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 07:26:29 -0800
Subject: RE: Re; Re: [Fwd: Axle (rear) serial numbers]
Or a de-coder ring. That'd be cool!
Jonathan Lane
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen Hutchings [mailto:hutching@the-wire.com]
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 7:05 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re; Re: [Fwd: Axle (rear) serial numbers]
Welcome to the club, Len; maybe there's a special BMC
magnifier/viewer that's required!
Stephen, BJ8
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 11:17:30 EST
Subject: Re: More BN1 Questions
In a message dated 12/14/2000 9:25:36 PM Mountain Standard Time,
CEWPlatt@aol.com writes:
<<
Greetings,
More questions:
1) The trans cover has sheetmetal screws which attach into the flooring, and
the trans firewall cover has sheetmetal screws into the scuttle. But, does
the firewall cover mount to the trans cover? If so, how? Car came without
the
parts and I'm fitting new ones without any old holes to go by.
On the BN1 the trans cover just pushes against athe flat panel that covers
the square hole the belll housing fits in. No screws to this panel.
However, this panel is attached at its edges using three #8 pan head, zinc
plated 1-1 1/2" long sheet metal screws. Look for the original holes and try
to reuse them.
2) I'm trying to understand the design of the muffler clamps. It's a typical
clamp except one end bends into the gap and restricts the clamp from
becoming
completely tight unless it is deformed. Any help?
The "tab" on the end of the muffler clamp, as I analyze it, would serve as a
fulcrum point at the "far end" and thus help draw the band tight at the
"pipe" end. My clamps don't have this last bend (or tab) but are new
replacements.
Thanks for the response from everyone on my last set of questions. This list
is a great resource and I always look forward to the responses.
Best Regards,
Clay Platt
1954 BN1
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 10:01:36 -0800
Subject: Re: More BN1 Questions
Greetings all
One of my co-workers just handed me a section of the Long Beach Press
Telegram which announces the Los Angeles Auto show, but gives no dates that
I could see. (Great job reporting, LBPT!) I've heard its supposed to be in
January 2001 sometime. It says that Jaguar "Vehicles on display will range
from an SS1 to the F-TYPE show car. Also included will be an SS100, C- and
D-type racers, XK 120, 140 and 150, XK-SS six-cylinder and V-12 E-types and
XJ-S." That might be a good way to spend some time if you are in the LA
area. I know it won't be snowing here...
From Mike Blair <blimpie at digisys.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 19:40:38 -0700
Subject: BJ8 Front Suspension
I'am getting ready to rebuild the front suspension on my 66' BJ8, any words
of wisdom or tricks from the group would be greatly appreciated.
TIA
Mike
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 19:29:28 -0800
Subject: Stumbled across this pic
I was doing some web browsing to fill up a log file so I can finish a
document and came across this picture of Geoff testing a streamliner. This
site sells photos. If you live in the Bay area you may have seen them on
the news, since a mural artist in San Francisco is suing them!
http://www.bizpresenter.com/search/zoom.asp?i=10002262&p=Photographs&c=Vintage,+Retro&sc=0&pn=2&ps=8
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 21:49:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Stumbled across this pic
Awesome car isn't it.... shame that isn't the fast one... it sure was the
prettiest.... loved the 54 car.... the 56 car didn't look near as good in
it's Shipping dents and flat panels... but it ran the number.... and That is
the deal....
Thanks for sharing the Picture Bill.... K
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 9:29 PM
Subject: Stumbled across this pic
>
> I was doing some web browsing to fill up a log file so I can finish a
> document and came across this picture of Geoff testing a streamliner. This
> site sells photos. If you live in the Bay area you may have seen them on
> the news, since a mural artist in San Francisco is suing them!
>
>
http://www.bizpresenter.com/search/zoom.asp?i=10002262&p=Photographs&c=Vinta
ge,+Retro&sc=0&pn=2&ps=8
From "Dennis O'Connor" <boyo at homeacres.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 20:32:39 -0800
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
Regarding fuel guage flutter - it's probably not wise to tack a huge
capacitor across the guage terminals. The larger the capacitor, the more
engery it can store - the more energy, the more potential for a spark...
The resistance of the fuel sender circuit is very low (2-85 ohms), hence the
ability to move a lot of electrons in a short amount of time.
So I'm not a electical engineer, but I might make a little alteration to
that hack. Hopefully someone will correct me if I've got some numbers
wrong, and please be careful trying this at home. I personally plan to go
out and learn more about the circuit before applying this, but just thought
if everything said so far is true, and if I remember circuits classes at
all, this should work.
Wiring a capacitor and a resistor in series (end-to-end) allows you to use a
much smaller capacitor, and to limit how much current can flow through that
bypass circuit. If you look at an RC circuit by itself, the capacitor (C)
stores the charge and the resistor (R) limits how fast it can charge or
discharge. This will slow the change in voltage at the fuel guage terminal,
which should reduce flutter.
For example, take a 100K resistor and a 10uF capacitor (R*C=1). The
resistance of this circuit is well above the resistance of the fuel guage,
so a relatively small amount of current will be drawn off. This current
will at a maximum be: V=IR or 15[V]=I*100K or 0.15[mA]. Just a trickle.
To make the needle move slower, increase the resistance; faster, decrease
the resistance. If the resistor starts getting too small (<15K) use a
larger capacitor instead.
Well, hope that's useful info. Someday I'll get around to trying it myself,
but got a few other odds and ends to fix up first.
As in: Anybody designed a bullet proof and reliable fuel PUMP for the
Healeys yet? :)
-Boyo
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 06:38:23 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
>From a previous discussion of this topic List Member Magnus of Sweden had a
great suggestion.
He reported that most people insert the sending unit so the float is aligned
with the centerline axis of the car from front to back. Instead he suggested
aligning the sending unit on an axis from side to side on the car. He
reported less movement in the gauge since you are riding the crest of the
wave.
I haven't tried it but he reported it made a difference and it sure does
sound like a good idea.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 09:14:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
When I bought my BJ8, the sending unit was mounted sideways as described by
Jim and Magnus. Not knowing any better, I drove the car this way for many
years. I learned on this list that the "proper" way is with the wire
terminal oriented toward the front of the car, so when I had occasion to
remove the sending unit, I replaced it oriented the proper way. I have
noticed that my fuel gauge needle does move much more wildly now than it did
before, although even with the float sideways the needle still waved around.
I don't think it matters not having a steady needle, though. Healeys
apparently had that characteristic from new, and I have never run out of
gas in 40,000 miles of Healey driving.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com <Jwhlyadv@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, December 16, 2000 7:07 AM
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
>
>From a previous discussion of this topic List Member Magnus of Sweden had a
>great suggestion.
>
>He reported that most people insert the sending unit so the float is
aligned
>with the centerline axis of the car from front to back. Instead he
suggested
>aligning the sending unit on an axis from side to side on the car. He
>reported less movement in the gauge since you are riding the crest of the
>wave.
>
>I haven't tried it but he reported it made a difference and it sure does
>sound like a good idea.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim Werner
>Louisville, KY
>Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
From "John Bumpus" <jbumpus at home.com>
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 09:59:37 -0800
Subject: Healey Sighting
Who is the lovely lady on the Woman's Network who is blowing sawdust
all over a lovely Blue Healey in the back of her garage.
Merry Christmas to all Bumpy
From Bruce Steele <bsteele2 at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 12:47:15 -0800
Subject: A plea for some of the info on fuel guage flutter
OK, bone-head move, but I didn't save any of the rather lengthy
discussions on fuel guage flutter. No problems w/ my guage. HA!
Starting today, in addition to the "normal" sloshing, it has developed
an electrical problem and it it snaps around, usually pegging on F,
occasionally on E. If someone on the list has a copy of that nice
detailed description of the problem and what to do about it, I'd sure
appreciate a copy off the list. Thanks.
Bruce
bsteele2@pacbell.net
1960 BN7
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 16:38:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting
The lady is Meg Ruffman, one of my customers who borrowed one of my cars
for the series.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
John Bumpus wrote:
> Who is the lovely lady on the Woman's Network who is blowing sawdust
> all over a lovely Blue Healey in the back of her garage.
> Merry Christmas to all Bumpy
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 20:53:24 EST
Subject: Carbutettor extraction
Listers,
I'm in the process of pulling the carbs out of my BJ8, and I am coming across
the same old problem of not having enough room.
The problem is the rear HD8 hits the metal work, and won't come out. What's
the trick? Extract the studs to make room?
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 18:46:20 -0800
Subject: Engine rebuild timming
I am putting my engine back together after having it balanced and I am
wondering if the machine shop had the flywheel correctly oriented when it
was balanced.
When I read the shop manual, to install the timing chain and related gears,
the number one piston rod crank journal is straight up, i.e. at it's
closest to the bottom of the piston bore. The crank and cam are set with
keys near top dead center, the timing chain bright links are aligned with
the crank and cam gear marks and there are 13 links between the timing
marks on the crank and cam gears. The 13 links are to the right of the
engine, i.e. opposite the timing chain tensioner.
If I then align the flywheel and crankshaft machinist's balance marks and
install the flywheel the flywheel number one is 90 degree's from top dead
center, facing towards the block drain plug. Is this correct?
The shop manual has a procedure for installing the flywheel.
It states to place the flywheel over the flange bolts of the crankshaft
with the number 1 at top dead center when the first throw of the crankshaft
is at top dead center.
I don't know what is meant by 'first throw of the crank shaft at top dead
center'. Could someone explain this to me? Does it mean the number one
piston rod journal? Would the journal be near one of the bottom front main
bearing cap nuts when the flywheel number 1 is at top dead center?
Any help on understanding this would be very much appreciated.
Thanks in advance
John
'62 BT7 MK II
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 18:20:01 -0800
Subject: Overdirve help
I want to replace the rear seal on my overdrive as it is out of the car.
Is there a torque setting for the rear nut, the one with the cotter pin?
If so, what is the setting?
Thank in advance, so very much.
This list is a tremendous resource.
John
'62 BT7 MK II
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 21:08:23 -0600
Subject: Re: Engine rebuild timming
>The shop manual has a procedure for installing the flywheel.
The shop manual for installing the flywheel is written for
crankshaft/flywheel/damper assemblies that are balanced at the factory.
Once your machinist balances the assembly on his machines, you should
follow his new marks. The original factory balancing will no longer apply.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 21:19:34 -0600
Subject: Re: Overdirve help
>Is there a torque setting for the rear nut, the one with the cotter pin?
>
I have not seen a published torque setting on that nut. However, typically
with a castle nut of that size, I should expect a very wide reading -
something like 40 to 70 pounds/feet - to allow for the cotter pin to line
up. I expect that you will find the nut will find a position that lines up
the cotter pin without a lot of torque. That's why the use of a cotter
pin. If I remember right, 40 to 70 is the spec for the castle nut on the
front spindles.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 14:56:11 +0000
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
I can only comment in relation to a 100 but as there are only six screws
holding the float unit in place it is not possible to turn through 90
degrees. 60 and 120 degrees maybe. One other thought, the float has to
drop into the lower wedge shape in the bottom of a 100 tank to correctly
read when the tank is near empty. It will not read correctly if
positioned 180 degrees out and maybe the same will happen at other
angles. Finally, I think you will find at certain angles that the float
will foul the baffles!
All the best
>
>From a previous discussion of this topic List Member Magnus of Sweden had a
>great suggestion.
>
>He reported that most people insert the sending unit so the float is aligned
>with the centerline axis of the car from front to back. Instead he suggested
>aligning the sending unit on an axis from side to side on the car. He
>reported less movement in the gauge since you are riding the crest of the
>wave.
>
>I haven't tried it but he reported it made a difference and it sure does
>sound like a good idea.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim Werner
>Louisville, KY
>Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
--
John Harper
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2000 10:05:53 -0600
Subject: Re: Carbutettor extraction
it's been a long time since i owned a bj8, however, if memory serves me
correctly you have to remove the aircleaners first.
----- Original Message -----
From: Healybj8@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Carbutettor extraction
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 20:53:24 EST
Listers,
I'm in the process of pulling the carbs out of my BJ8, and I am coming across
the same old problem of not having enough room.
The problem is the rear HD8 hits the metal work, and won't come out. What's
the trick? Extract the studs to make room?
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2000 15:04:35 -0500
Subject: Re:Manuals
Hi,
I have a couple of old British car manuals that I wanted to offer to the
list before they go on eBay.
1) The Complete Official MGB Bentley Manual, including Driver's Handbook,
Workshop Manual
and Special Tuning Manual
2) Factory MGB Workshop Manual 1976
3) Factory MG Midget Workshop Manual 1976
4) Factory Triumph TR7 Repair Operations Manual, January 1977
Please contact me off the list if interested. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
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From Steve Dupus <stevsgarage at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2000 15:59:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
John Harper <John@jharper.demon.co.uk> wrote:
I can only comment in relation to a 100 but as there are only six screws
holding the float unit in place it is not possible to turn through 90
degrees. 60 and 120 degrees maybe. One other thought, the float has to
drop into the lower wedge shape in the bottom of a 100 tank to correctly
read when the tank is near empty. It will not read correctly if
positioned 180 degrees out and maybe the same will happen at other
angles. Finally, I think you will find at certain angles that the float
will foul the baffles!
All the best
>
>From a previous discussion of this topic List Member Magnus of Sweden had a
>great suggestion.
>
>He reported that most people insert the sending unit so the float is aligned
>with the centerline axis of the car from front to back. Instead he suggested
>aligning the sending unit on an axis from side to side on the car. He
>reported less movement in the gauge since you are riding the crest of the
>wave.
>
>I haven't tried it but he reported it made a difference and it sure does
>sound like a good idea.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim Werner
>Louisville, KY
>Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
--
John Harper
I have to agree, turning the float will probably create problems not solve
them. The first place to check is the electical connections. Those blasted
bullet connector are the cause of Lucas's bad rap.Replacing all the sleeve
connection couldn't hurt, I like to use a little electical silicon lube on all
the connections it makes them go together easier and keeps air out (reducing
corrosion). Next make sure the sender has good ground a well as the tank. Some
years of Spridgets use a seperate voltage stabelizer, this could be the source
of your problem. Check your wiring diagram.
Steve@ stevsgarage@netzero.net
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2000 10:41:50 -0000
Subject: FW: Fuel Gage Flutter
I put a new ally tank in my MkII. I probably would have aligned
the sender unit fore and aft per factory, but the float fouled
one of the baffles! So I rotated it by one screw hole, if I make
myself clear.
That then fitted OK and the needle continued to behave as
before:- interesting, thought provoking, but not 100% useful.
Simon Lachlan.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John Harper
> Sent: 16 December 2000 14:56
> To: Jwhlyadv@aol.com
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Fuel Gage Flutter
>
>
>
> I can only comment in relation to a 100 but as there
> are only six screws
> holding the float unit in place it is not possible to
> turn through 90
> degrees. 60 and 120 degrees maybe. One other thought,
> the float has to
> drop into the lower wedge shape in the bottom of a 100
> tank to correctly
> read when the tank is near empty. It will not read correctly if
> positioned 180 degrees out and maybe the same will
> happen at other
> angles. Finally, I think you will find at certain
> angles that the float
> will foul the baffles!
>
> All the best
>
> >
> >From a previous discussion of this topic List Member
> Magnus of Sweden had a
> >great suggestion.
> >
> >He reported that most people insert the sending unit
> so the float is aligned
> >with the centerline axis of the car from front to
> back. Instead he suggested
> >aligning the sending unit on an axis from side to
> side on the car. He
> >reported less movement in the gauge since you are
> riding the crest of the
> >wave.
> >
> >I haven't tried it but he reported it made a
> difference and it sure does
> >sound like a good idea.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Jim Werner
> >Louisville, KY
> >Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
>
> --
> John Harper
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2000 09:28:40 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Front Suspension
Hi Mike,
Front suspension rebuilds are very well explained in the workshop manual.
A few pointers.
DO NOT have the bushes honed to size. They must be reamed to ensure correct
alignment. The
The lower outer bushes must not be tightened all the way, check the manual.
Unless you are a devoted masochist I would recommend leaving the lower inner
pins and bushes alone if they appear to sound. They are very hard to get out
and unless they get oil soaked they last for ever.
Otherwise straight forward.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Mike Blair wrote:
> I'am getting ready to rebuild the front suspension on my 66' BJ8, any words
> of wisdom or tricks from the group would be greatly appreciated.
>
> TIA
>
> Mike
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2000 06:43:28 -0800
Subject: RE: BJ8 Front Suspension
<<Unless you are a devoted masochist I would recommend leaving the lower
inner
pins and bushes alone if they appear to sound. They are very hard to get out
and unless they get oil soaked they last for ever>>
Are you talking about the A-arm to chassis bushings? If they are trashed
any suggestions? I think mine are looking a little worse for wear.
Jonathan Lane
Retail Sales
Moss Motors, Ltd.
(800) 235-6954 x3240
(805) 692-2525 - Fax
lanej@mossmotors.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:magicare@home.com]
Sent: Monday, December 18, 2000 6:29 AM
To: Mike Blair
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: BJ8 Front Suspension
Hi Mike,
Front suspension rebuilds are very well explained in the workshop manual.
A few pointers.
DO NOT have the bushes honed to size. They must be reamed to ensure correct
alignment. The
The lower outer bushes must not be tightened all the way, check the manual.
Unless you are a devoted masochist I would recommend leaving the lower inner
pins and bushes alone if they appear to sound. They are very hard to get out
and unless they get oil soaked they last for ever.
Otherwise straight forward.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Mike Blair wrote:
> I'am getting ready to rebuild the front suspension on my 66' BJ8, any
words
> of wisdom or tricks from the group would be greatly appreciated.
>
> TIA
>
> Mike
From L W <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2000 09:56:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Motor Mounts
Hi all:
What would be the thread type on the chassis motor mounts on a 54 bn1? I would
like to chase these threads; can I use a National Fine or metric tap. I don't
have any British taps. TIA
lance
54 bn1
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2000 10:42:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Motor Mounts
Hi Lance,
I believe, although someone may have better information, that the original
rubber front engine mounts had BSF threads however most of the main rubber
mounts have now been changed to the
only available mount with SAE threads.
The same applies to centre hole on the original gearbox mounts
The bolts that attach the front mount mounting brackets to the chassis have an
HZS part number so they are SAE.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
L W wrote:
> Hi all:
> What would be the thread type on the chassis motor mounts on a 54 bn1? I
>would like to chase these threads; can I use a National Fine or metric tap. I
>don't have any British taps. TIA
> lance
> 54 bn1
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2000 12:03:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Motor Mounts
Way to go Salter (a fellow Canuck).
Where else can one get tech support of this caliber? That's why
some of us hang thru the crap.
IMHO if you have the motor out, replace the mounts derigeure, if
available
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
To: L W <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>; Healey List
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: December 18, 2000 10:42 AM
Subject: Re: Motor Mounts
>
> Hi Lance,
>
> I believe, although someone may have better information, that
the original rubber front engine mounts had BSF threads however
most of the main rubber mounts have now been changed to the
> only available mount with SAE threads.
> The same applies to centre hole on the original gearbox mounts
>
> The bolts that attach the front mount mounting brackets to the
chassis have an HZS part number so they are SAE.
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
> L W wrote:
>
> > Hi all:
> > What would be the thread type on the chassis motor mounts on a
54 bn1? I would like to chase these threads; can I use a National
Fine or metric tap. I don't have any British taps. TIA
> > lance
> > 54 bn1
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2000 15:55:23 EST
Subject: Re: Motor Mounts
In a message dated 12/18/2000 7:57:48 AM Mountain Standard Time,
brshwrks@bellatlantic.net writes:
<<
Hi all:
What would be the thread type on the chassis motor mounts on a 54 bn1? I
would like to chase these threads; can I use a National Fine or metric tap.
I don't have any British taps. TIA
lance >>
The motor mounts on 100s had BSF threads on botht he top "buffer" block and
the main block (with four studs on it -- two on each side).
ALL new mounts sold today have UNF threads. They seem to fit just fine
HOWEVER, the top block is a bit thinner than my original one -- by aobut
1/16" or more. This leaves a larger gap between the block and the top of the
main support block. They will work, but just let the main mounts sag more
before the engin rests on them. Healthy mounts will keep a small gap below
the buffer ones anyway.
Roger
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2000 16:49:40 -0500
Subject: Engine Mounts
Hi all:
What type threads would be on the chassis motor mounts for a 54 bn1? I
believe they are fine threads. Any chance I could use an National Fine or
metric tap to chase these threads? I don't have any British taps.
lance 54 bn1
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2000 21:41:52 EST
Subject: Head gasket
Listers,
What is the correct origional type of head gasket for the 3000 engine.
I am getting into the middle of my winter engine rebuild project, and when I
lifted the head, there was a shiny copper gasket there. Is that right, or
has someone been there before? Seems like there has been something done to
the engine in the past, and I'm wondering if the head may have been rebuilt.
Any ideas?
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2000 21:45:41 EST
Subject: Pistons and rods
Listers,
What is the wisdom of the list when rebuilding an engine. Use the old
pistons and rods, or buy new? I'm thinking that the rings are certainly
needing replacing, but what about the rest?
I haven't checked the bores, but there is no ridge in the cyllinders. May
not need to be machined much to make these right. The only thing I can find
is a bit of wear at the tops by feel. Any ideas here?
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2000 22:02:27 EST
Subject: Re: Pistons and rods
First you have to ask your self "do I want to this again or do I want this
job to last for as long as possible".
If you want my choice if I have a engine out I dont want to have to pull it
out again in a few years to do it right, when I could have donw it right the
first time. If you want the engine to run like a new engine then do it right.
1. Bore block and install new pistons
2. Turn crank and balance
3. rebuild cylinder head and install hard valves and seats
4. Install new oil pump
5. regrind camshaft and install new cam bearings
6. New timing chain and tensioner
7. Deck block and surface head
8. Install new radiator core
9. Re build ancillary equipment (carbs , generator , starter , distributor)
10. Install all new hoses and belts
11. Install a new S.U. fuel pump if you are using an original and put the
old one in the trunk as a spare
After doing all this you will have made the engine as new as possible and
will as dependable as any new car today.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2000 21:53:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Pistons and rods
Hey Dave.... I always love to read your advice.... absolutely SPOT ON....
Period... hard to get into trouble when you do it right up front...
It's been awhile since I have said this... but your family has a reputation
for quality work... it's a shame I live on the other side of the country I
would love to spend some time in your shop.... ( I would still do my own
work but the knowledge that could be gained would be awesome )
Thanks for popping in now and again....
Keith Turk ( the So Al Special and to many damn Healey's to list )
----- Original Message -----
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <Healybj8@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 18, 2000 9:02 PM
Subject: Re: Pistons and rods
>
> First you have to ask your self "do I want to this again or do I want this
> job to last for as long as possible".
> If you want my choice if I have a engine out I dont want to have to pull
it
> out again in a few years to do it right, when I could have donw it right
the
> first time. If you want the engine to run like a new engine then do it
right.
>
> 1. Bore block and install new pistons
> 2. Turn crank and balance
> 3. rebuild cylinder head and install hard valves and seats
> 4. Install new oil pump
> 5. regrind camshaft and install new cam bearings
> 6. New timing chain and tensioner
> 7. Deck block and surface head
> 8. Install new radiator core
> 9. Re build ancillary equipment (carbs , generator , starter ,
distributor)
> 10. Install all new hoses and belts
> 11. Install a new S.U. fuel pump if you are using an original and put the
> old one in the trunk as a spare
> After doing all this you will have made the engine as new as possible and
> will as dependable as any new car today.
>
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif. 95205
> 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at <A
HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
> Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From CEWPlatt at aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2000 23:29:00 EST
Subject: Good news may change restoration plans
Greetings everyone,
The good news is my wife is in her third trimester with twins and I am
considering becoming a statistic in the "failed to finish restoration"
category by giving someone else the opportunity to finish the ground up
restoration of my 1954 100. I am interested in honest opinions to the
extimated $ value of the car unfinished, to me it's unbelievable what I have
invested in the car so far. The car is not strictly to concours (sp?)
standards, I've used SAE fasteners , prepped it for the toyota trans, and
have installed 60 spoke rims, although these all can be remedied.
Here's the details of the restoration to date - replacement of the trunk pan,
floor pans, front cross member, inner/outer sills, dog legs, and lower front
wings. Chasis has been stripped and painted carmine red with new painted 60
spoke rims w/dunlop sp20's on new front/rear suspension (bushings, seals,
bearings, springs, etc), new wiring and electrical components - flasher
relay, fuse box, rebuilt starter/generator, wiper assy, stainless muffler.
The body is not currently mounted to the chasis, but has been fitted many
times. Good body with excellent front/rear shrouds requiring minor body work,
new seat slides, new brake m/c, new brake lines, rebuilt w/cyls, new fuel
system w/facet pump, toyota 5-speed conversion, rebuilt toyota gearbox, spare
AH 3000 trans, rebuilt wiper system, new batteries. The engine is ready to be
assembled with a reground crank/cam, machined block, new
bearings/pistons/lifters/timing chain/gasket set. Head is not cracked and is
waiting machining. The main items missing is the speedo/tach. Basically, the
car needs the engine to be assembled, the head rebuilt, exterior body work,
new interior, new tach/speedo, and instrument switches.
Best Regards,
Clay Platt
1954 100
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2000 22:43:43 -0600
Subject: Re: Pistons and rods
I, too, agree with David on his wisdom of doing it all and doing it
correctly while the engine is out of the car.
But he did not answer your question about reusing the parts. The BJ8 rods
are very good rods. The result of the earlier 1006 rods being lousy and
failing in some of the works rallye events. The later design is strong and
light. Check them over carefully. If they are not cracked and do not have
unusual colorations, they should remain serviceable. You may want to
consider shot blasting them for stress relief but it should not be necessary.
Reusing the pistons is a function of their condition and the condition of
the bores. If your bores remain round and truly remain within original
dimensioning specs, reusing the pistons is an option. Check the pistons
carefully around the edges, skirt and the wrist pin for signs of wear,
fatigue, cracks or discoloration.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2000 21:41:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: gearbox rebuilt. General questions
Well,
Having to double-clutch every time I shift down, I think it is
probably time to change the synchro rings on my centershift gearbox.
A transmission bebuild is one a the very few things I have never done
on a car and I need some encouragement.
I would like to have a feedback from any of you who has done it
before. I do not have any special tools but I can mill,laithe or weld
them if I need to. I can have a very clean work environement, all the
dail gauges and micrometers you can dream of, and even liquid
nitrogen if I need to press-fit or unpress anything!
Now for the questions:
-Is it reasonnable to attempt an amateur tranmission rebuilt?
-What's the hard part?
-Howcome is there nothing about shimming tolerances and bearings wear
tolerances in the BMC workshop manual?
-What do you replace by principle in a trans' rebuilt and what do you
replace only if worn?
Just thinking at pulling the transmission out of the cockpit is
killing my back already...
Francois
BJ7
__________________________________________________
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 01:10:23 EST
Subject: RE: Throw Out (release) Bearings
Listers
I have a pile of throw out or release bearings in the shed and would like to
sort them by application. Does someone have the dimension (center of the
pivot shafts to the face of the carbon bearing) for the various Healey
applications? Some of the ones I have are probably not Healey parts. TIA
Aloha
Perry
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 09:07:15 +0000
Subject: Re: Motor Mounts
Roger
May I add to what you have so correctly stated. Please see below an
extract from an article which I wrote some years ago
> What would be the thread type on the chassis motor mounts on a 54 bn1? I
>would like to chase these threads; can I use a National Fine or metric tap.
>I don't have any British taps. TIA
> lance >>
>
>The motor mounts on 100s had BSF threads on botht he top "buffer" block and
>the main block (with four studs on it -- two on each side).
>
>ALL new mounts sold today have UNF threads. They seem to fit just fine
>HOWEVER, the top block is a bit thinner than my original one -- by aobut
>1/16" or more. This leaves a larger gap between the block and the top of the
>main support block. They will work, but just let the main mounts sag more
>before the engin rests on them. Healthy mounts will keep a small gap below
>the buffer ones anyway.
>
Front Engine Mountings
It is not usually appreciated that the front top engine mountings need
setting up. This is not surprising as the instructions do not appear in
the 100 workshop manual but are in the 100/6 3000 version. These buffers
or "snubbers" as they are sometimes called should be set to 1/6th of an
inch clearance between the bottom of the buffer and the top of the
chassis bracket. This is achieved by adjusting the number and thickness
of the shims fitted between the metal top of the rubber mounting and the
main engine top bracket. The shims can be removed or added easily
without any dismantling as they are slotted to fit around the fixing
bolt and locating peg. First loosen the main fixing nut and then slide
them in or out until the correct clearance is obtained.
All the best
--
John Harper
From "Chris Woodall" <cwoodall at mnsi.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 08:09:06 -0500
Subject: Air Duct Hoses
Is there an alternate material with the proper dimensions that would work
for the 3.25" air duct hose from the blower to the heater? I have found
several alternatives in 4". Any ideas appreciated.
Chris Woodall
60 BT7
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 14:41:49 +0100
Subject: Re: Air Duct Hoses
> Is there an alternate material with the proper dimensions that would work
> for the 3.25" air duct hose from the blower to the heater? I have found
> several alternatives in 4". Any ideas appreciated.
>
> Chris Woodall
> 60 BT7
Hi,
was looking for the same, but found that the original I could buy from AH
Sapres in the UK was a LOT cheaper than anything I could come up with. The real
BIG problem is that there seems to be NO room for any substitutes. (There is
virtually no room for the original either..)
E.Larssen 60BT7
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 09:42:51 -0500
Subject: Hello, Im new to the list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 10:03:57 -0500
Subject: No HTML on the page? my goof
I'm in the final stages of restoration of a BN-6. Gary Anderson, who has
been a great (actually more than great) help to me,
suggested the "list". My answer of course was, "what list?" To make a
long story short, here I am.
My car is #1238, built June 2-3, 1958, the same week I graduated from
high school. It was imported by the local Detroit Metro
dealer, Ralph "Pappy" Durban, to race SCCA, which he did. I bought it a
few years ago with 10,254 original miles on it. I have
driven it a total of five miles. The car was too original just to
repaint and have fun with. You guessed it, three years later it is
almost
finished. This car is the most original fifties car I have had, or seen.
It was missing only the front bumper (taken off and discarded to
race), tools and jack, and the upholstery was eaten by mice who shared
existence with the car in a barn.
Any body interested in seeing them, I'll send them the photopoint
addresses.
Any help, would be, will be, greatly appreciated.
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 15:48:03 -0000
Subject: Cast iron exhaust headers
When citing the best ways to increase efficiency &/or performance
in Big Healeys, some of our experts have particularly mentioned
speeding up the exhaust flow by reducing the right angle in the
cast iron headers. (As opposed to going the whole hog with a
bunch of bananas setup).
I wonder if anyone has done it??
How they did it?
What the practicalities are here? Must be a limit to what you
take off, I suppose.
What are the snags?
And.......did it produce discernible results??
I shoould be interested to hear and grateful for the input.
(I have a tricarb)
Tahnks,
Simon.
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 09:54:05 -0600
Subject: RE: Throw Out (release) Bearings
Perry:
The BJ8 throw out bearing has the following dimensions:
Outside Diameter of metal casing: 3"
Outside Diameter of carbon face: 2.75"
Inside Diameter of metal casing: 1.9375"
Inside diameter of carbon face: 1.625"
Outside width of ears: 4"
Inside width of ears: 2.5"
Thickness of casing and new facing .875"
Hope this helps.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 11:15:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Pistons and rods
Besides several other specs, usually there are new factory
tolerances and wear limits for the piston-cylinder clearance. You
can get at these in several axis and locations with feeler gauges
or by direct measurement of the pistons and cylinders (latter
method requires 3-4 inch mike and inside gauges). Where you take
the measurements should be in the shop manual.
Unless there's very low mileage you will find that you are
definably somewhere between the factory and wear limits. Your
choice after that depends on overall strategy and budget.
Mike L
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard J. Hockert, Esq. <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: <Healybj8@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: December 18, 2000 11:43 PM
Subject: Re: Pistons and rods
>
> I, too, agree with David on his wisdom of doing it all and doing
it
> correctly while the engine is out of the car.
>
> But he did not answer your question about reusing the parts.
The BJ8 rods
> are very good rods. The result of the earlier 1006 rods being
lousy and
> failing in some of the works rallye events. The later design is
strong and
> light. Check them over carefully. If they are not cracked and
do not have
> unusual colorations, they should remain serviceable. You may
want to
> consider shot blasting them for stress relief but it should not
be necessary.
>
> Reusing the pistons is a function of their condition and the
condition of
> the bores. If your bores remain round and truly remain within
original
> dimensioning specs, reusing the pistons is an option. Check
the pistons
> carefully around the edges, skirt and the wrist pin for signs of
wear,
> fatigue, cracks or discoloration.
>
> Best regards.
>
> Jim Hockert
> BJ8 Rallye
> Dallas, TX
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 10:08:30 -0600
Subject: RE: Cast iron exhaust headers
Please inform me as well... thanks
-----Original Message-----
From: Simon Lachlan [mailto:simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk]
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2000 10:48 AM
To: Healeys
Subject: Cast iron exhaust headers
When citing the best ways to increase efficiency &/or performance
in Big Healeys, some of our experts have particularly mentioned
speeding up the exhaust flow by reducing the right angle in the
cast iron headers. (As opposed to going the whole hog with a
bunch of bananas setup).
I wonder if anyone has done it??
How they did it?
What the practicalities are here? Must be a limit to what you
take off, I suppose.
What are the snags?
And.......did it produce discernible results??
I shoould be interested to hear and grateful for the input.
(I have a tricarb)
Tahnks,
Simon.
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 11:33:29 -0500
Subject: Re: gearbox rebuilt. General questions
Hi Francois,
To your questions.
If you can operate a lathe and a milling machine I would expect that you
have more than adequate skills to rebuild a gearbox, however some
patience is required.
The hard part is reinstalling the overdrive without damaging things.
The gearbox is largely a non wear item. The clearances are usually
correct if nothing is worn.
All seals and gaskets obviously but almost everything else is replaced
only if not in excellent condition. You will almost certainly find that
the lay shaft and bearings are in poor shape. The gears should be
carefully checked, and the syncro rings.
The overdrive is a little more difficult to rebuild and IMHO some
judgment calls are required which are experience dependent.
Good luck.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
francois wildi wrote:
> Well,
> Having to double-clutch every time I shift down, I think it is
> probably time to change the synchro rings on my centershift gearbox.
> A transmission bebuild is one a the very few things I have never done
> on a car and I need some encouragement.
> I would like to have a feedback from any of you who has done it
> before. I do not have any special tools but I can mill,laithe or weld
> them if I need to. I can have a very clean work environement, all the
> dail gauges and micrometers you can dream of, and even liquid
> nitrogen if I need to press-fit or unpress anything!
>
> Now for the questions:
> -Is it reasonnable to attempt an amateur tranmission rebuilt?
> -What's the hard part?
> -Howcome is there nothing about shimming tolerances and bearings wear
> tolerances in the BMC workshop manual?
> -What do you replace by principle in a trans' rebuilt and what do you
> replace only if worn?
>
> Just thinking at pulling the transmission out of the cockpit is
> killing my back already...
>
> Francois
> BJ7
>
> __________________________________________________
From "Bob Judd" <bobjudd at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 8:50:52 -0800
Subject: New RHD Tonneau cover
While I was in London, my friend Hutchins
pulled out a black tonneau cover for a Mark III from his attic where it has
been
in the original pouch since he sold his Mark 3 in the 1960's. It's British
(ie. rhd,) as new, black, used 3 times and comes in the original pouch. I
see that Moss is selling lhd ones for $260, but has no rhd. ones. If
there's anybody out there who wants it for $200 we'll send the proceeds to the
Save the Children fund. Cheers, Bob Judd BN2
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Woodall
To: Healey List
Sent: 12/19/2000 5:14:50 AM
Subject: Air Duct Hoses
Is there an alternate material with the proper dimensions that would
work
for the 3.25" air duct hose from the blower to the heater? I
have found
several alternatives in 4". Any ideas appreciated.
Chris Woodall
60 BT7
--- bobjudd@earthlink.net
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 09:42:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Pistons and rods
I agree with David also. Having just done a total rebuild last year I would
add the following though...
1. rebuild the rocker shaft/bushings
2. reface the rocker arms
3. install new lifters (make sure they are hardened appropriately)
4. Regarding rods - have the big ends recentered. Rods big ends tend to not
be round after a lot of miles
5. install an upgraded rear main seal.
Cheers.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 - Waiting for my bumpers to come back all straight and re-chromed
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 13:37:36 EST
Subject: Re: Pistons and rods
There is lots of miscelanouis things that are part of and engine rebuild that
I left out since they are to much to mention . The best advice I could give
would be to strip the block and give it all to a machine shop (head, block,
caps, rods) have them clean it all and see what it will need to do the best
job possible. Then get the advice of those that have been doing Healey
engines for the specifis areas that are problems with the Healey engine.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From jbpate at attglobal.net
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 13:44:53 -0500
Subject: Ground strap location/air vent clamp
Where is the ground strap between the chassis and engine supposed to be
located for a late BJ8. I think it goes between the starter motor bolt
and the hydraulic bracket on the frame that is near it. Other
possibility is across the motor mount.
I have managed to lose the little clamp that is on the fresh air intake
near the front of the car. It clamps the fresh air cable to the metal
housing at the flap. Anyone have an extra part out there or willing to
give me dimensions to have one made. Thanks Barry Pate 1967 BJ8
From L W <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 14:09:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Motor Mounts
Hello:
My bn1 does not have these shims since I've owned the car. Can they still be
purchased if so where?
lance
54bn1
------Original Message------
From: John Harper <john@jharper.demon.co.uk>
To: Rmoment@aol.com
Sent: December 19, 2000 9:07:15 AM GMT
Subject: Re: Motor Mounts
Roger
May I add to what you have so correctly stated. Please see below an
extract from an article which I wrote some years ago
> What would be the thread type on the chassis motor mounts on a 54 bn1? I
>would like to chase these threads; can I use a National Fine or metric tap.
>I don't have any British taps. TIA
> lance >>
>
>The motor mounts on 100s had BSF threads on botht he top "buffer" block and
>the main block (with four studs on it -- two on each side).
>
>ALL new mounts sold today have UNF threads. They seem to fit just fine
>HOWEVER, the top block is a bit thinner than my original one -- by aobut
>1/16" or more. This leaves a larger gap between the block and the top of the
>main support block. They will work, but just let the main mounts sag more
>before the engin rests on them. Healthy mounts will keep a small gap below
>the buffer ones anyway.
>
Front Engine Mountings
It is not usually appreciated that the front top engine mountings need
setting up. This is not surprising as the instructions do not appear in
the 100 workshop manual but are in the 100/6 3000 version. These buffers
or "snubbers" as they are sometimes called should be set to 1/6th of an
inch clearance between the bottom of the buffer and the top of the
chassis bracket. This is achieved by adjusting the number and thickness
of the shims fitted between the metal top of the rubber mounting and the
main engine top bracket. The shims can be removed or added easily
without any dismantling as they are slotted to fit around the fixing
bolt and locating peg. First loosen the main fixing nut and then slide
them in or out until the correct clearance is obtained.
All the best
--
John Harper
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 14:45:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Pistons and rods
Some more for the list David.
Rebuild or replace the water pump.
Clean out the rocker shaft.
Replace the rocker shaft & bushes replace if worn
Check the small end bushes
Check the ring gear
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
> First you have to ask your self "do I want to this again or do I want this
> job to last for as long as possible".
> If you want my choice if I have a engine out I dont want to have to pull it
> out again in a few years to do it right, when I could have donw it right the
> first time. If you want the engine to run like a new engine then do it right.
>
> 1. Bore block and install new pistons
> 2. Turn crank and balance
> 3. rebuild cylinder head and install hard valves and seats
> 4. Install new oil pump
> 5. regrind camshaft and install new cam bearings
> 6. New timing chain and tensioner
> 7. Deck block and surface head
> 8. Install new radiator core
> 9. Re build ancillary equipment (carbs , generator , starter , distributor)
> 10. Install all new hoses and belts
> 11. Install a new S.U. fuel pump if you are using an original and put the
> old one in the trunk as a spare
> After doing all this you will have made the engine as new as possible and
> will as dependable as any new car today.
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif. 95205
> 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
> Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 08:53:00 +1100
Subject: Re: Air Duct Hoses
G'day Chris
The correct name for the air duct hose in an Austin-Healey is Copex tubing.
I
may be mistaken but I think the only place it is made in the world is in
Belgium. Needless to say it is bloody expensive and hard to get.
Having just replaced the Copex tubing in the BN3/1 and I can speak from
experience that to add pain to injury it is also a cow to fit and very easy
to
damage. I had to remove the carburettors.
For those who don't know it is aluminium extendable tubing with a black hard
paper covering on the inside and out. It has a low sheen appearance and
looks
great in the engine bay.
There are plastic alternatives but they just look like ------ plastic
alternatives. Try a MG parts outlet for the plastic. Copex tubing is
available
in all the right diameters and all you have to do is pay for it. Oh yes and
fit it as well.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>>> Chris Woodall 20/12/00 0:09:06 >>>
Is there an alternate material with the proper dimensions that would work
for the 3.25" air duct hose from the blower to the heater? I have found
several alternatives in 4". Any ideas appreciated.
Chris Woodall
60 BT7
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 16:55:27 EST
Subject: Re: Ground strap location/air vent clamp
The ground strap goes from the bellhousing bolt below the starter and behind
the slave cylinder to a threaded fitting in the frame rail below the bracket
for the clutch slave hose.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From TC <tm-c at gmx.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 23:28:44 +0100
Subject: getting oil out of carburettor domes ?
Hi all,
The oil in my BJ8 carburettor domes appears to be a bit on the thick
side resulting in slow response of the piston. Especially at low revs
this is a bit annoying and therefore I would like to replace the oil for
a thinner type.
Now, is there a way, short of taking the carbs out, to get the old oil
out? I thought of the sucking it out through a tube but am not sure if
using this method I get out enough of the old oil.
Anybody with suggestions on this?
Tim Campe
BJ8
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 17:35:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Air Duct Hoses
Funny thing about Kopex(I believe it is) tubing.
Several years ago our church had its pipe organ rebuilt by a company from NYC.
It cost a hell of a lot of money and the church had to borrow big time to
finance it, but that is another story.
While the rebuild was under way I had to check on some stuff at the church which
involved moving the garbage container. Inside the garbage box wer hundreds of
feet of torn up Kopex tubing.all sizes from 2 1/2" to 6". When I asked about it
I was told that this is the only product the company had found which did not
expand and contract with the air pressure and thus made the notes crisper in
that they did not trail off as the tuping returned to its unpressurized size.
The things you learn from garbage!!
Anyway, I managed to track down a U.S. supplier of the material and the name is
in one of my filing cabinets. Which cabinet, which drawer and which file I do
not know but if I do ever come across it I will post it for all to see.
In the meantime check with pipe organ rebuilders. I bet they still use it.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
"Quinn, Patrick" wrote:
> G'day Chris
>
> The correct name for the air duct hose in an Austin-Healey is Copex tubing.
> I
> may be mistaken but I think the only place it is made in the world is in
> Belgium. Needless to say it is bloody expensive and hard to get.
>
> Having just replaced the Copex tubing in the BN3/1 and I can speak from
> experience that to add pain to injury it is also a cow to fit and very easy
> to
> damage. I had to remove the carburettors.
>
> For those who don't know it is aluminium extendable tubing with a black hard
> paper covering on the inside and out. It has a low sheen appearance and
> looks
> great in the engine bay.
>
> There are plastic alternatives but they just look like ------ plastic
> alternatives. Try a MG parts outlet for the plastic. Copex tubing is
> available
> in all the right diameters and all you have to do is pay for it. Oh yes and
> fit it as well.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>
> >>> Chris Woodall 20/12/00 0:09:06 >>>
>
> Is there an alternate material with the proper dimensions that would work
> for the 3.25" air duct hose from the blower to the heater? I have found
> several alternatives in 4". Any ideas appreciated.
>
> Chris Woodall
> 60 BT7
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 17:39:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Air Duct Hoses
Further to my earlier...
I found their web site http://www.organsupply.com/ Erie PA.. That is
near NYC isn't it? ;-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
"Quinn, Patrick" wrote:
> G'day Chris
>
> The correct name for the air duct hose in an Austin-Healey is Copex tubing.
> I
> may be mistaken but I think the only place it is made in the world is in
> Belgium. Needless to say it is bloody expensive and hard to get.
>
> Having just replaced the Copex tubing in the BN3/1 and I can speak from
> experience that to add pain to injury it is also a cow to fit and very easy
> to
> damage. I had to remove the carburettors.
>
> For those who don't know it is aluminium extendable tubing with a black hard
> paper covering on the inside and out. It has a low sheen appearance and
> looks
> great in the engine bay.
>
> There are plastic alternatives but they just look like ------ plastic
> alternatives. Try a MG parts outlet for the plastic. Copex tubing is
> available
> in all the right diameters and all you have to do is pay for it. Oh yes and
> fit it as well.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>
> >>> Chris Woodall 20/12/00 0:09:06 >>>
>
> Is there an alternate material with the proper dimensions that would work
> for the 3.25" air duct hose from the blower to the heater? I have found
> several alternatives in 4". Any ideas appreciated.
>
> Chris Woodall
> 60 BT7
Further to my earlier...
I found their web site http://www.organsupply.com/
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 17:45:36 -0500
Subject: Re: getting oil out of carburettor domes ?
Hi Tim,
Remove the damper assembly, undo the 4 screws that take off the suction
chamber, lift off the suction chamber, lift out the spring, lift out the
piston, invert the piston.
Assembly is the reverse of disassembly ;-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
TC wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> The oil in my BJ8 carburettor domes appears to be a bit on the thick
> side resulting in slow response of the piston. Especially at low revs
> this is a bit annoying and therefore I would like to replace the oil for
> a thinner type.
>
> Now, is there a way, short of taking the carbs out, to get the old oil
> out? I thought of the sucking it out through a tube but am not sure if
> using this method I get out enough of the old oil.
>
> Anybody with suggestions on this?
>
> Tim Campe
> BJ8
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 16:52:03 -0600
Subject: RE: getting oil out of carburettor domes ?
Hi,
I have used a syringe with a large needle and found it to do a decent but
slow job. Even better is to use a disposable pipette, the kind that has a
long snout and a bulb at the other end. Sucks them chambers dry in no
time.
Once you have the bulk of it out, add some solvent like carb cleaner to the
oil, stir it up and suck some more, doing a final wipe with long q-tips or a
soft rag and a pencil.
I call it Pipette a-la-carb :-)
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: TC [mailto:tm-c@gmx.net]
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2000 2:29 PM
To: Healey List; healeys-owner@autox.team.net; Healey Chat
Subject: getting oil out of carburettor domes ?
Hi all,
The oil in my BJ8 carburettor domes appears to be a bit on the thick
side resulting in slow response of the piston. Especially at low revs
this is a bit annoying and therefore I would like to replace the oil for
a thinner type.
Now, is there a way, short of taking the carbs out, to get the old oil
out? I thought of the sucking it out through a tube but am not sure if
using this method I get out enough of the old oil.
Anybody with suggestions on this?
Tim Campe
BJ8
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 17:09:13 -0600
Subject: Re: getting oil out of carburettor domes ?
remove each dashpot and pour.,
----- Original Message -----
From: TC <tm-c@gmx.net>
To: Healey List <majordomo@autox.team.net>,
"healeys-owner@autox.team.net" <healeys-owner@autox.team.net>,
Healey
Chat <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: getting oil out of carburettor domes ?
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 23:28:44 +0100
Hi all,
The oil in my BJ8 carburettor domes appears to be a bit on the thick
side resulting in slow response of the piston. Especially at low revs
this is a bit annoying and therefore I would like to replace the oil for
a thinner type.
Now, is there a way, short of taking the carbs out, to get the old oil
out? I thought of the sucking it out through a tube but am not sure if
using this method I get out enough of the old oil.
Anybody with suggestions on this?
Tim Campe
BJ8
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 17:23:15 -0600
Subject: Shop safety: Hydraulic tools
Hi All,
On the subject of shop safety, let me relate a quick story about an
incident a couple of years ago that had me inspecting every piece of
hydraulic equipment in my shop. We were installing the rebuilt engine in a
friend's Jaguar MkII (in his garage with his equipment). The engine and
gearbox were on a dolly, and the hoist was being used to lift the front of
the body (no front suspension) over the engine, so as to slide the
powerplant into position below the engine bay. With the hoist nearing
maximum height, we needed just a hair more lift. The next pump on the hoist
resulted in the body crashing down on top of the engine. The engine fell
over shearing the exhaust cam gear from the shaft and bending all the studs
on that side of the head that secure the cam and cover. Thankfully, nobody
was injured, except financially. Upon inspection, it turned out that the
bleed hole in the top of the ram's cylinder had been pinched shut during
assembly, as evidenced by the pipe wrench marks over the hole. This allowed
pressure to build up in the cylinder until it split the cylinder with
catastrophic results. Please check your Hydraulic tools to insure that they
'bleed off' when the ram reaches the extent of its travel. If the handle
becomes hard to operate at this point, have the unit checked professionally,
or replaced. Whatever you do, never trust your life to a piece of hydraulic
equipment. I hope this comes in time to help someone avoid a similar
incident, or worse. Happy holidays!
Peter (BMC Restorations)
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 19:18:10 EST
Subject: Re: Pistons and rods
Ha! I knew this would get the list going! Thanks again everyone! Seems the
consensus is to buy new pistons and get the rods redone. (Kinda have to do
that as they are no longer made.)
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
In a message dated 12/18/2000 10:04:44 PM Eastern Standard Time,
HLYDOC@aol.com writes:
<< First you have to ask your self "do I want to this again or do I want this
job to last for as long as possible". >>
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 19:15:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge Flutter - But No More
I had the typical flutter with the fuel gauge in my BT7. I learned to
target the middle area of the two extremes as the approximate actual fuel
level. But it was the rapid clicking that would signal me when the level
was getting too low.
I just finished replacing the wiring harness, which is a story in itself.
I took the car out for a drive today and noticed that the gauge was rather
stable. It would lower as I depressed the accelerator, but didn't move
much otherwise. Looked pretty good - and yes, it also appeared accurate.
Could at least some of the problem be caused by bad contacts ? I hope I get
the same results when I do the BN7 harness. We'll see.
Regards,
Mike L.
Bridgewater, NJ
'56 BN2
'59 BN7
'60 BT7 (sold)
'60 Bugeye
'67 Mustang 2+2
'70 E-Type
'79 Midget
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 18:53:31 -0800
Subject: Re: Hello, Im new to the list
Hi, Arjay. Don't be shy, tell us about yourself.....your car.
Mark Fawcett
'60 BT7 in pieces
----- Original Message -----
From: Arjay <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2000 6:42 AM
Subject: Hello, Im new to the list
From RCT2BNC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 22:56:56 EST
Subject: generator ID
Can anyone identify this generator...got this in a large box of parts.
Lucas
D22462E 7 56
C45PV5 Gc51 12v
Thanks
Ben Cohen
Tucson
BJ8, BN7, AN5, AN5, Mini Cooper
From Fred Crowley <oldwolf at airmail.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 23:19:41 -0600
Subject: Spec-Sprites
If y'all are interested...
To see a current view of what constitutes a Spec-Sprite, go to the
Corinthian Vinatge Racing web-site and select Spec Sprites.
http://www.corinthianvintagerace.com/
Regards
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
oldwolf.vcf]
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 00:23:25 -0500
Subject: RE: gearbox rebuilt. General questions
You can rebuild a Healey gearbox with basic tools. About
the only tools you might need to buy are a large box wrench
for removing the nut which holds the bearing to the first motion
shaft and a press to remove the first and third motion shaft
bearings.
As far as tolerances are concerned, the only major one is
the end float on the lay gear. According to Bruce Phillips,
the only thing to check on the front and rear bearings is
to insure that the sims will not be putting a preload on
them.
Get some help when you lift the box out of the car.
Other points.
While you have the box apart, check the teeth on both first
gears as well as the teeth where the synchronizer hubs engage
with second, third, and fourth.
Another tip from Bruce: Use a bit of fine sand emory cloth to
break the glaze on the surfaces of second, third, and fourth gears
which mate with the synchro rings.
Good luck,
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of francois wildi
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2000 12:41 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: fwildi@as.arizona.edu
Subject: gearbox rebuilt. General questions
Well,
Having to double-clutch every time I shift down, I think it is
probably time to change the synchro rings on my centershift gearbox.
A transmission bebuild is one a the very few things I have never done
on a car and I need some encouragement.
I would like to have a feedback from any of you who has done it
before. I do not have any special tools but I can mill,laithe or weld
them if I need to. I can have a very clean work environement, all the
dail gauges and micrometers you can dream of, and even liquid
nitrogen if I need to press-fit or unpress anything!
Now for the questions:
-Is it reasonnable to attempt an amateur tranmission rebuilt?
-What's the hard part?
-Howcome is there nothing about shimming tolerances and bearings wear
tolerances in the BMC workshop manual?
-What do you replace by principle in a trans' rebuilt and what do you
replace only if worn?
Just thinking at pulling the transmission out of the cockpit is
killing my back already...
Francois
BJ7
__________________________________________________
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 03:11:43 -0500
Subject: Re: "average"
Not so. It's territoriality manifested by all species including we
supposedly higher evolved humans. When you try to pass, he or she
(politically correct for the millenium) instinctively speeds up to protect
their territory. The rest of the stupid driving traits we manifest are just
because we're stupid. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
-----Original Message-----
From: David <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 10:59 AM
Subject: "average"
>
>> Why is it
>> When you
>> Try to pass
>> The guy in front
>> Goes twice as fast?
>> --Burma-Shave--
>>
>
>Because...unfortunately he's an "average" human....an "average" driver.
>There are more of them than anything else. No thought goes into driving by
>"average" humans. No thought....just reactive human emotions. Not
>ideal....VERY annoying....but reality none-the-less. We are all guilty of
>such annoying foolishness at one time or another. The "thinkers" catch
>themselves more often than not. The mindless just do it....over and over
and
>over....day after day....year after year. Blind....mindless..."driving"?
>That's life!
>
>Why do drivers do all of the stupid things that they do? I question it
every
>single day....and the above is the only answer that I am ever able to come
>to. Sorry for the pessimism....you caught me at the right (?) time I guess!
>
>Dave
>
>BJ8
>TR4A
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 03:14:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Truck Safety - Paranoids do have enemies
Has anybody found the bodies of the gun crew? RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
-----Original Message-----
From: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 12:47 PM
Subject: RE: Truck Safety - Paranoids do have enemies
>
>Friend of mine was towing a howitzer back from
>manoeuvres. Gun crew had attached it to the end of
>the winch drag line instead of the rigid hook.
>As the combo lumbered along the strain began to tell on
>the winch and the cable began to pay out......
>Now, his excuse was that the gun didn't show up in his mirror
>while he was on the straight and that as long as he kept rolling
>the cable stayed taut enough to keep the gun from dragging.
>But, when he slowed for a roundabout, the gun kept going!
>It overtook him on the outside and lurched straight over the central
>reservation until the cable caught on the truck's front and then it
>swung\pivoted across his front and stopped on the road a distance in
>front of him.
>Nobody was hurt. Miracle.Cable would have beheaded a Healey driver.
>The gun was largely undamaged-howitzers are sturdy things by
>the very nature of their operating environment. The roundabout
>looked pretty wrecked-barely a shrub or a sign left standing.
>Friend's pride was damaged.
>
>Simon Lachlan
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
>[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Healybj8@aol.com
>Sent: 19 September 2000 00:05
>To: jimrowan@uic.edu; healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Truck Safety - serious paranoia
>
>
>
>In a message dated 09/18/2000 12:53:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>jimrowan@uic.edu writes:
>
><< Also beware pickup trucks. About a month ago I was traveling behind some
> ford pickup on the tollway, speed limit 65. I was about 3 secs behind him
>when
> the entire plastic bedliner lifted out of the truck flew up about 20 ft
> and did a pirouette over the roof of my car narrowly missing me. >>
>
>I couldn't agree more being a truck owner. Too many times people tail gate
>so closely to me in my truck that I can't even see their hood! I have a
>mat
>which I keep covered with something heavy to prevent it from being sucked
>out, but stuff does get sucked out on occasion.
>
>I recall one time (which I am not particularly proud of, but still find
>humorous none the less) when some girl was tail gating me extremely
closely.
>( I have had trailered cars give me more space than this!) This was on
I-20
>and we were doing around 70 mph. I was annoyed, so I started changing my
>speed hoping that this girl would either pass or back off. No luck, she
>stuck on my rear bumper like she was racing stock cars at Daytona.
>
>Well it seems that there was a empty beer can in the back of my truck that
>day for some reason. ;o) A dead soldier from the weekend football tail
gate
>party. Well since this car was so close it distrubed the air flow in the
>back of the truck. The next thing I know this can gets caught in the vortex
>of air, gets sucked out and bounces off the hood of her car. It did about
>three loops behind the cab of my truck before it exited, and the look on
>this
>gal's face was priceless. Needless to say she backed wwwaaaayyyy off and I
>didn't have any more trouble with her. If she had been following the
proper
>2-second distance this probably never would have happened, so I figured she
>learned her lesson in tail gaiting.
>
>Moral of the story, if you can't see around the truck, back off. Bad
things
>happen when you anger the truck gods.
>
>Tim
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 03:30:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Good news may change restoration plans
I think you're looking at a huge loss if you try to sell the car
un-assembled. While the mods you made exclude you from concours judgeing I
feel that all Healeys are going to increase in value in the next 10 to 15
years, even modified ones. Put it together so that you can show prospective
buyers that it runs and price it accordingly. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
-----Original Message-----
From: CEWPlatt@aol.com <CEWPlatt@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, December 18, 2000 11:34 PM
Subject: Good news may change restoration plans
>
>Greetings everyone,
>
>The good news is my wife is in her third trimester with twins and I am
>considering becoming a statistic in the "failed to finish restoration"
>category by giving someone else the opportunity to finish the ground up
>restoration of my 1954 100. I am interested in honest opinions to the
>extimated $ value of the car unfinished, to me it's unbelievable what I
have
>invested in the car so far. The car is not strictly to concours (sp?)
>standards, I've used SAE fasteners , prepped it for the toyota trans, and
>have installed 60 spoke rims, although these all can be remedied.
>
>Here's the details of the restoration to date - replacement of the trunk
pan,
>floor pans, front cross member, inner/outer sills, dog legs, and lower
front
>wings. Chasis has been stripped and painted carmine red with new painted 60
>spoke rims w/dunlop sp20's on new front/rear suspension (bushings, seals,
>bearings, springs, etc), new wiring and electrical components - flasher
>relay, fuse box, rebuilt starter/generator, wiper assy, stainless muffler.
>The body is not currently mounted to the chasis, but has been fitted many
>times. Good body with excellent front/rear shrouds requiring minor body
work,
>new seat slides, new brake m/c, new brake lines, rebuilt w/cyls, new fuel
>system w/facet pump, toyota 5-speed conversion, rebuilt toyota gearbox,
spare
>AH 3000 trans, rebuilt wiper system, new batteries. The engine is ready to
be
>assembled with a reground crank/cam, machined block, new
>bearings/pistons/lifters/timing chain/gasket set. Head is not cracked and
is
>waiting machining. The main items missing is the speedo/tach. Basically,
the
>car needs the engine to be assembled, the head rebuilt, exterior body work,
>new interior, new tach/speedo, and instrument switches.
>
>Best Regards,
>
>Clay Platt
>1954 100
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 05:50:14 -0500
Subject: 100s
Hi all:
I recently received the latest Flash, the newsletter for the AH Sports and
Touring Club. Hope there are other members on the list. The photos on the
cover are of a 100s. It seems to sit up high or have a lot of ground
clearance as well as additional space between the fender opening and the top
of the tire. Since I've never seen a 100s in real, is that normal or is
there something wrong with the car in the photos. Just curious.
lance
54 bn1
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 08:33:53 -0500
Subject: Grose-Jets
Folks,
A couple weeks ago someone was asking for a source for Grose-jets for
your
carbs. In the British Marque car club news there is an ad from the
manufacturer of them:
D&G Valve Mfg
8 Mt. Vernon St.
Stoneham, MA 02180
(617)438-1773
From L W <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 09:21:25 -0500 (EST)
Subject: FWD: RE: Tubing
------Original Message------
From: "Paul Schwetz" <osi@organsupply.com>
To: Lance Werner <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
Sent: December 20, 2000 1:33:58 PM GMT
Subject: RE: Tubing
I am sorry, but we do not carry this kind of tubing and I am not sure where
you would be able to find it. I suspect that a large automotive store would
be you best bet.
Paul Schwetz
Customer Service
Organ Supply Industries, Inc.
Voice 814-835-2244
FAX 814-838-0349
osi@organsupply.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Lance Werner [mailto:brshwrks@bellatlantic.net]
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2000 5:44 AM
To: osi@organsupply.com
Subject: Tubing
Hello:
Do you have aluminium extendable tubing that is covered in black paper? I
have heard it called Copex or Kopex tubing. If so, what sizes are available
and what would be the cost. Thanks for any info.
lance
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 07:01:29 -0800
Subject: RE: 100s
100S's came with 5.50 x 15 racing tires rather than 5.90's and they had
stock 100 springs even though they weighed less than 2000 lbs. That might
make them look a little high if the 25 gallon fuel tank is empty!
Ken Freese
-----Original Message-----
From: Lance Werner [mailto:brshwrks@bellatlantic.net]
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2000 2:50 AM
To: Healey E-mail list
Subject: 100s
Hi all:
I recently received the latest Flash, the newsletter for the AH Sports and
Touring Club. Hope there are other members on the list. The photos on the
cover are of a 100s. It seems to sit up high or have a lot of ground
clearance as well as additional space between the fender opening and the top
of the tire. Since I've never seen a 100s in real, is that normal or is
there something wrong with the car in the photos. Just curious.
lance
54 bn1
From Earle Knobloch <armynavy at gte.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 10:31:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Grose-Jets
M Brouillette wrote:
> Folks,
>
> A couple weeks ago someone was asking for a source for Grose-jets for
>your
> carbs. In the British Marque car club news there is an ad from the
> manufacturer of them:
>
> D&G Valve Mfg
> 8 Mt. Vernon St.
> Stoneham, MA 02180
> (617)438-1773
Hi all,
Thank you for the info, I was asking and found that the phone number area code
is
wrong... correct area code is 781.
Have been trying to reach them unsuccessfully
Earle in sunny but cold Florida
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 12:00:23 EST
Subject: Re: Good news may change restoration plans
Would agree with Feehan that once you get a restoration to the point where it
just needs to be put together, you are probably going to lose money if you
try to sell it as is. Certainly, I would advise a buyer to factor in to a
purchase like this, the possibility that all parts may not be there -- even
if you honestly and sincerely think they are (We've all gotten to that point
in our restoration where we can't find the framus that is needed before the
doohicky can be installed even though we're certain we stored it away
carefully when the car was disassembled.)
Cheers
Gary
In a message dated 12/20/00 2:29:00 AM, feehanr@cadvision.com writes:
<< I think you're looking at a huge loss if you try to sell the car
un-assembled. While the mods you made exclude you from concours judgeing I
feel that all Healeys are going to increase in value in the next 10 to 15
years, even modified ones. Put it together so that you can show prospective
buyers that it runs and price it accordingly. >>
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 13:09:43 EST
Subject: Re: generator ID
In a message dated 12/19/00 8:01:09 PM Pacific Standard Time, RCT2BNC@aol.com
writes:
<< Can anyone identify this generator...got this in a large box of parts.
Lucas
D22462E 7 56
C45PV5 Gc51 12v >>
Ben
One application of this generator would be on the Aston Martin DB4 and DB4GT
specifically the 22462E. The DB2/4 used the generator 22462B/D and the DB3/S
used number 22462D.
Another application of generator 22462E would be early Jaguar 3.4 litre
'58-'59: Mk ll '60: 3.8 litre '60. Also the Jaguar Mk Vlll '57-'59.
As a side note:
22462E is the Part No.
7 56 is the month and year of manufacture.
C45PV5 is the Model No.
GC 51 is the Type.
12V is 12 volt.
So says my Lucas Master Catalog.
Cheers
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
From "KIRK KVAM" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 10:31:20 -0800
Subject: "The Healey Story"
For what it's worth.
I have been informed by Margot Healey that Geoffrey Healey's
book "The Healey Story" is now out of print and that there were
only three thousand printed.
So, hold on to the copies you have,
or rat hole a few extras.
HAPPY HEALEY HOLIDAYS TO ALL
Kirk Kvam
62BT7#3
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 10:54:14 -0800
Subject: RE: "The Healey Story"
We've got 8 in stock right now so if anyone wants one let me know.
Jonathan Lane
Retail Sales
Moss Motors, Ltd.
(800) 235-6954 x3240
(805) 692-2525 - Fax
lanej@mossmotors.com
-----Original Message-----
From: KIRK KVAM [mailto:klkvam@prodigy.net]
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2000 10:31 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: "The Healey Story"
For what it's worth.
I have been informed by Margot Healey that Geoffrey Healey's
book "The Healey Story" is now out of print and that there were
only three thousand printed.
So, hold on to the copies you have,
or rat hole a few extras.
HAPPY HEALEY HOLIDAYS TO ALL
Kirk Kvam
62BT7#3
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 15:16:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Good news may change restoration plans
For goodness sake... everyone knows that the framus goes on before the
doohicky ... ;-)
Couldn't resist!!
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> Would agree with Feehan that once you get a restoration to the point where it
> just needs to be put together, you are probably going to lose money if you
> try to sell it as is. Certainly, I would advise a buyer to factor in to a
> purchase like this, the possibility that all parts may not be there -- even
> if you honestly and sincerely think they are (We've all gotten to that point
> in our restoration where we can't find the framus that is needed before the
> doohicky can be installed even though we're certain we stored it away
> carefully when the car was disassembled.)
>
> Cheers
> Gary
>
> In a message dated 12/20/00 2:29:00 AM, feehanr@cadvision.com writes:
>
> << I think you're looking at a huge loss if you try to sell the car
> un-assembled. While the mods you made exclude you from concours judgeing I
> feel that all Healeys are going to increase in value in the next 10 to 15
> years, even modified ones. Put it together so that you can show prospective
> buyers that it runs and price it accordingly. >>
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 08:52:11 +0000
Subject: Re: generator ID
Ben
I cannot find 22462 in any of my cross references to British cars.
I can find 22461 and 22463 but this is of no use.
It was listed in a 1974 master price list as being superceded by 22496.
I expect you know the rest. It is a 4.5" diameter dynamo/generator
version 5 built in July 1956. It would be very similar to those fitted
to a 100 but in some way not identical or otherwise it would have the
same part number. You might be able to use it on a 100 but you need to
check the mountings (Left or Right) and the rotation. If these are same
I expect that it would work OK.
For interest does it have a wick type rear lubricator or just a simple
hole in the brush holder end.
>
>Can anyone identify this generator...got this in a large box of parts.
>
>Lucas
> D22462E 7 56
> C45PV5 Gc51 12v
>
>
>Thanks
>
>Ben Cohen
>Tucson
>BJ8, BN7, AN5, AN5, Mini Cooper
--
John Harper
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 18:11:11 EST
Subject: Happy Healeydays!
I've updated a few web pages I did last year featuring artwork of Healeys at
Christmas time including Donald Healeys personal Christmas card.
Find it at the Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com and follow the link
to Christmas Images. Hope you enjoy and thanks to Rudy Streng for his recent
contributions of Healey Christmas cards.
PS Follow all the links!
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 20:07:14 -0500
Subject: Kopex tubing
Some surfing has produced the following very intersting page about
Kopex.
http://www.kopex.co.uk/html/about.htm
Of particular interest is the mention of S Smith and Sons Limited, known
to us Healey folk as the manufacturer of various components in our
beloved cars.
I have sent and enquiry as to whether the company still produces Kopex
tubing and will keep y'all posted.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 20:24:23 -0500
Subject: RE: getting oil out of carburettor domes ?
Take off the dashpot covers (3 screws each), pull out the pistons,
and turn them upside down to empty out the oil. The pistons and
"domes" are matched pairs so don't get them mixed up.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of TC
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2000 5:29 PM
To: Healey List; healeys-owner@autox.team.net; Healey Chat
Subject: getting oil out of carburettor domes ?
Hi all,
The oil in my BJ8 carburettor domes appears to be a bit on the thick
side resulting in slow response of the piston. Especially at low revs
this is a bit annoying and therefore I would like to replace the oil for
a thinner type.
Now, is there a way, short of taking the carbs out, to get the old oil
out? I thought of the sucking it out through a tube but am not sure if
using this method I get out enough of the old oil.
Anybody with suggestions on this?
Tim Campe
BJ8
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 21:33:02 -0500
Subject: BJ8 -- and XJ6VP for sale
A while ago I thought it was time to do a good going over of my BJ8. Engine
is now out and while out, I'll do lots of work on it. One thing we found
today that amazes me and proves how tough these things are is that every
piston had chunks out of the sides of them!! How it still ran and had power
I'll never know. anyway, new pistons, tappets, rings, etc are in order.
Also, the cam shaft was pretty badly worn---will need a new one. Anyone
have a new one for sale??
On another note, I will be selling my 85 XJ6 VP. Car is in very good
condition--I would say excellent, but there is one flaw that you have to
look for to see it. I had it repainted 2 years ago because the paint was
"crazing". If you look in the right light you can still see faint signs of
the crazing. Leather is beautiful, engine very strong and very smooth--no
oil consumption. Trans very smooth. Car is black (base.clear) tan
interior. It is located in Pittsburgh, Pa nestled in a garage out of the
snow----I don't drive it in the snow.
I think $6800 is a good price for it. The Series III is the current Jag
sedan "classic". I bought a 97 XJ6L today and don't need two of them.
If interested, contact me off line.
Regards
Tom
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 21:35:10 -0500
Subject: BJ8 -- and XJ6VP for sale
A while ago I thought it was time to do a good going over of my BJ8. Engine
is now out and while out, I'll do lots of work on it. One thing we found
today that amazes me and proves how tough these things are is that every
piston had chunks out of the sides of them!! How it still ran and had power
I'll never know. anyway, new pistons, tappets, rings, etc are in order.
Also, the cam shaft was pretty badly worn---will need a new one. Anyone
have a new one for sale??
On another note, I will be selling my 85 XJ6 VP. Car is in very good
condition--I would say excellent, but there is one flaw that you have to
look for to see it. I had it repainted 2 years ago because the paint was
"crazing". If you look in the right light you can still see faint signs of
the crazing. Leather is beautiful, engine very strong and very smooth--no
oil consumption. Trans very smooth. Car is black (base.clear) tan
interior. It is located in Pittsburgh, Pa nestled in a garage out of the
snow----I don't drive it in the snow.
I think $6800 is a good price for it. The Series III is the current Jag
sedan "classic". I bought a 97 XJ6L today and don't need two of them.
If interested, contact me off line.
Regards
Tom
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 19:35:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Good news may change restoration plans
That's all very true, but the biggest hidden cost of restoration has got to be
labor. A Healey in a basket, even if every part is present, cleaned,
reconditioned and finished , still has to be assembled and no one works as
cheaply as you do. I doubt if anyone will give anywhere near the value of the
finished car if they foresee months (or years) of assembly required.
Too bad it has to go. I know the pressure that parenthood can put on a budget,
but I predict that you will regret selling it. This feeling is from experience.
When I got married back in the dark ages I had to sell my 1962 Corvette. I have
always missed it and I've never been in a position to afford another. Even if I
had just put it in storage!!!
Good luck with whatever course you take.
Bill Lawrence
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> Would agree with Feehan that once you get a restoration to the point where it
> just needs to be put together, you are probably going to lose money if you
> try to sell it as is. Certainly, I would advise a buyer to factor in to a
> purchase like this, the possibility that all parts may not be there -- even
> if you honestly and sincerely think they are (We've all gotten to that point
> in our restoration where we can't find the framus that is needed before the
> doohicky can be installed even though we're certain we stored it away
> carefully when the car was disassembled.)
>
> Cheers
> Gary
>
> In a message dated 12/20/00 2:29:00 AM, feehanr@cadvision.com writes:
>
> << I think you're looking at a huge loss if you try to sell the car
> un-assembled. While the mods you made exclude you from concours judgeing I
> feel that all Healeys are going to increase in value in the next 10 to 15
> years, even modified ones. Put it together so that you can show prospective
> buyers that it runs and price it accordingly. >>
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 19:53:09 -0700
Subject: BN1 parts
Hello all,
I have a couple of questions to ask concerning
parts I need to finish my BN1.
Does anyone have or know of a source for the early
BN1 side curtains (all perspex on thin aluminum
frames)? I am interested in acquiring a set even
if it's only the frames. Alternatively if someone
has pictures or drawings of the frames I might be
able to fabricate a set.
Does anyone have a set of the early door checks?
These are the ones with the bar which is almost
straight. I need one of the bars, two of the
rubber buffers and two of the door-end mounts.
These checks will not interchange with the later
BN1/BN2 parts.
Thanks to everyone for their attention, and have a
happy holiday.
Bill Lawrence
From "Andrew Shrimpton" <stanhickeycon at clear.net.nz>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 16:31:48 +1300
Subject: Side shift gearbox
Just pulled gearbox apart to find mainshaft broken, heaps of wear etc.
Does anyone know of other BMC cars which shared this gearbox, eg
Wolseley etc?? as I think it will be more cost effective to buy a
second hand one than try a rebuild. Thanks
Andrew Shrimpton
BT7
New Zealand
From Frank A Filangeri <ffilangeri at juno.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 23:19:40 -0500
Subject: Healey for sale
Having recently acquired an additional car (1951 MGTD Vintage racer) and
not having enough garage space to keep all the toys, I have very
reluctantly decided after 25 years of ownership, to sell my 1966 AH 3000.
Photos and additional details can be found at
http://www.classicjaguar.com/frankf.html
If you are interested please visit or pass the web address along to those
who maybe be.
Thanks and Happy Holidays to all.
Frank Filangeri
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
From Healey3000MKII at aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 23:43:14 EST
Subject: Re: Healey for sale
Frank,
I couldn't access the site ................my fault or bad address?
Jim
In a message dated 12/20/2000 9:25:13 PM Mountain Standard Time,
ffilangeri@juno.com writes:
> Having recently acquired an additional car (1951 MGTD Vintage racer) and
> not having enough garage space to keep all the toys, I have very
> reluctantly decided after 25 years of ownership, to sell my 1966 AH 3000.
>
>
> Photos and additional details can be found at
> http://www.classicjaguar.com/frankf.html
> If you are interested please visit or pass the web address along to those
> who maybe be.
>
> Thanks and Happy Holidays to all.
>
> Frank Filangeri
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 22:26:04 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey for sale
The address worked fine for me. A nice looking car.
If you typed in the address by hand, perhaps you omitted a letter some
place? If not, I would just try again.
-Roland
On Wed, 20 Dec 2000 23:43:14 EST, Healey3000MKII@aol.com wrote:
:: Frank,
:: I couldn't access the site ................my fault or bad address?
:: Jim
:: In a message dated 12/20/2000 9:25:13 PM Mountain Standard Time,
:: ffilangeri@juno.com writes:
::
::
:: > Having recently acquired an additional car (1951 MGTD Vintage racer) and
:: > not having enough garage space to keep all the toys, I have very
:: > reluctantly decided after 25 years of ownership, to sell my 1966 AH 3000.
:: >
:: >
:: > Photos and additional details can be found at
:: > http://www.classicjaguar.com/frankf.html
:: > If you are interested please visit or pass the web address along to those
:: > who maybe be.
:: >
:: > Thanks and Happy Holidays to all.
:: >
:: > Frank Filangeri
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 20:46:02 +0000
Subject: Re: generator ID
Curt
><< Can anyone identify this generator...got this in a large box of parts.
>
> Lucas
> D22462E 7 56
> C45PV5 Gc51 12v >>
>
>Ben
>
>One application of this generator would be on the Aston Martin DB4 and DB4GT
>specifically the 22462E. The DB2/4 used the generator 22462B/D and the DB3/S
>used number 22462D.
>
>Another application of generator 22462E would be early Jaguar 3.4 litre
>'58-'59: Mk ll '60: 3.8 litre '60. Also the Jaguar Mk Vlll '57-'59.
>
Ido not doubt what you say but when accessing Lucas documents "the other
way around Jaguars are listed as having a 22496 on all models 1950 to
1958 except 2.4 litre. This had the 22489. There was also a 22528 for
Power Steering Models. I haver noticed this happen before and I guess
that Lucas allocated numbers somewhat liberally and then realised that
they could rationalise on one type to serve a variety of purposes. Also
they often appeared to service an item with a later part numbered item
whilst no longer servicing the original part number. I have a master
price list with 22462 listed with 22496 (as above) listed as the service
item. So it all ties up in a way.
I have a parts breakdown of the major items which make up 22496. There
is very little common in this to a Austin-Healey C45 Generator. This
does not say however that the 22462 is not the same in some respects.
Incidentally, I expect you know this but for those who do not, the
letter after the part number indicates a state of modification, usually
just in manufacturing. It is not usually of any significance to those
using the part as a spare. In the teminology I am used to there would be
no change to "form, fit or function". If there were a new part number
would have been issued.
All the best
>As a side note:
>
>22462E is the Part No.
>7 56 is the month and year of manufacture.
>C45PV5 is the Model No.
>GC 51 is the Type.
>12V is 12 volt.
>
>So says my Lucas Master Catalog.
>
>Cheers
>
>Curt Arndt
>Carlsbad, CA
>'55 BN1, '60 AN5
--
John Harper
From Robert Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 06:40:58 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey for sale
The address is correct, or I viewed someone else's Healey. Pretty car.
Arjay
Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
> The address worked fine for me. A nice looking car.
> If you typed in the address by hand, perhaps you omitted a letter some
> place? If not, I would just try again.
>
> -Roland
>
> On Wed, 20 Dec 2000 23:43:14 EST, Healey3000MKII@aol.com wrote:
>
> :: Frank,
> :: I couldn't access the site ................my fault or bad address?
> :: Jim
> :: In a message dated 12/20/2000 9:25:13 PM Mountain Standard Time,
> :: ffilangeri@juno.com writes:
> ::
> ::
> :: > Having recently acquired an additional car (1951 MGTD Vintage racer) and
> :: > not having enough garage space to keep all the toys, I have very
> :: > reluctantly decided after 25 years of ownership, to sell my 1966 AH 3000.
> :: >
> :: >
> :: > Photos and additional details can be found at
> :: > http://www.classicjaguar.com/frankf.html
> :: > If you are interested please visit or pass the web address along to those
> :: > who maybe be.
> :: >
> :: > Thanks and Happy Holidays to all.
> :: >
> :: > Frank Filangeri
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 06:20:48 -0800
Subject: RE: Good news may change restoration plans
I was the reason my dad sold his BT7 back in 1965. He bought a VW
Squareback. I think the resentment lasts to this day. Either that or I was
just a rotten kid.
Personally I would hold on to the Healey, work on it when you can and take
the kid for a drive when it finally gets done. I would imagine that on
occasion you will need a little sanity break and Healeys are good for that.
The restoration will certainly slow down, but doesn't have to stop.
Jonathan Lane
-----Original Message-----
From: ynotink [mailto:ynotink@qwest.net]
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2000 6:35 PM
To: Editorgary@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Good news may change restoration plans
That's all very true, but the biggest hidden cost of restoration has got to
be
labor. A Healey in a basket, even if every part is present, cleaned,
reconditioned and finished , still has to be assembled and no one works as
cheaply as you do. I doubt if anyone will give anywhere near the value of
the
finished car if they foresee months (or years) of assembly required.
Too bad it has to go. I know the pressure that parenthood can put on a
budget,
but I predict that you will regret selling it. This feeling is from
experience.
When I got married back in the dark ages I had to sell my 1962 Corvette. I
have
always missed it and I've never been in a position to afford another. Even
if I
had just put it in storage!!!
Good luck with whatever course you take.
Bill Lawrence
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> Would agree with Feehan that once you get a restoration to the point where
it
> just needs to be put together, you are probably going to lose money if you
> try to sell it as is. Certainly, I would advise a buyer to factor in to a
> purchase like this, the possibility that all parts may not be there --
even
> if you honestly and sincerely think they are (We've all gotten to that
point
> in our restoration where we can't find the framus that is needed before
the
> doohicky can be installed even though we're certain we stored it away
> carefully when the car was disassembled.)
>
> Cheers
> Gary
>
> In a message dated 12/20/00 2:29:00 AM, feehanr@cadvision.com writes:
>
> << I think you're looking at a huge loss if you try to sell the car
> un-assembled. While the mods you made exclude you from concours judgeing I
> feel that all Healeys are going to increase in value in the next 10 to 15
> years, even modified ones. Put it together so that you can show
prospective
> buyers that it runs and price it accordingly. >>
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 06:37:22 -0800
Subject: The Healey Story.
Well just so people know, the 8 copies of this book are gone. Sorry I
couldn't get one for everyone who wanted them.
Jonathan Lane
Retail Sales
Moss Motors, Ltd.
(800) 235-6954 x3240
(805) 692-2525 - Fax
lanej@mossmotors.com
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 10:26:12 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 -- and XJ6VP for sale
Tom: Just a thought, what about reconditioning the cam? I've had good success
with Delta Camshafts in Tacoma Washington, I don't remember their number but
I'm sure someone on the list has it. They do good work at a reasonable price!
tom felts wrote:
> A while ago I thought it was time to do a good going over of my BJ8. Engine
> is now out and while out, I'll do lots of work on it. One thing we found
> today that amazes me and proves how tough these things are is that every
> piston had chunks out of the sides of them!! How it still ran and had power
> I'll never know. anyway, new pistons, tappets, rings, etc are in order.
>
> Also, the cam shaft was pretty badly worn---will need a new one. Anyone
> have a new one for sale??
>
> On another note, I will be selling my 85 XJ6 VP. Car is in very good
> condition--I would say excellent, but there is one flaw that you have to
> look for to see it. I had it repainted 2 years ago because the paint was
> "crazing". If you look in the right light you can still see faint signs of
> the crazing. Leather is beautiful, engine very strong and very smooth--no
> oil consumption. Trans very smooth. Car is black (base.clear) tan
> interior. It is located in Pittsburgh, Pa nestled in a garage out of the
> snow----I don't drive it in the snow.
>
> I think $6800 is a good price for it. The Series III is the current Jag
> sedan "classic". I bought a 97 XJ6L today and don't need two of them.
>
> If interested, contact me off line.
>
> Regards
> Tom
--
Edward D. Santoro, M.S.
Monitoring Coordinator
Delaware River Basin Commission
25 State Police Drive
West Trenton, NJ
08628
Tel:609 883-9500 ext 268
Fax:609 883-9522
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 15:46:55 -0000
Subject: FW: Cast iron exhaust headers
Any offers on this one?........
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
Sent: 19 December 2000 15:48
To: Healeys
Subject: Cast iron exhaust headers
When citing the best ways to increase efficiency &/or performance
in Big Healeys, some of our experts have particularly mentioned
speeding up the exhaust flow by reducing the right angle in the
cast iron headers. (As opposed to going the whole hog with a
bunch of bananas setup).
I wonder if anyone has done it??
How they did it?
What the practicalities are here? Must be a limit to what you
take off, I suppose.
What are the snags?
And.......did it produce discernible results??
I shoould be interested to hear and grateful for the input.
(I have a tricarb)
Tahnks,
Simon.
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 08:07:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: 33 Years Ago Today
Season's Greetings everyone,
For those interested in Healey history, today (December 21) is the 33rd
anniversary of the closing of the big Healey production line at Abingdon.
So hoist a Guinness and shed a tear in commemoration of the end of an era,
and say a silent word of thanks that we can still drive and enjoy these cars
by our collective efforts and interest in a marque, lo these many years
later.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2
1 x AN5, and looking for more...
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 08:13:14 -0800
Subject: RE: Question for youth (was "RE: Good news may change
Definately a good question!
Yep I'm a very immature 35. My interest in these cars came straight from my
dad. When he was younger he raced motorcycles in England and when he moved
over here he got into sports cars and started doing rallies and stuff. He
and my mom went on their honeymoon in the Healey and we used to see photos
of it all the time when I was growing up. As a result I just fell in love
with Healeys and British sports cars in general. My dad and I really bonded
when we were working on cars and he helped me countless times after I got my
MGB-GT.
As for whether or not we really need to get the younger generation involved
in these cars or not, it's hard to say. I think that they are either into
it or not. Some of the best salespeople we have here at Moss right now are
part time college students who are driving and restoring their cars.
They're like 19 years old and spending all their money on their cars. Like
me they come from parents who are enthusiasts and who encourage them in
their hobby. I love seeing these guys with their cars because I see a lot
of myself in them. Next time you call talk to Greg McCauley and ask him how
his MGB is coming along. He's having a great time with it and it's going to
be beautiful.
Rather than thinking of this as "preserving our cars," perhaps we should
look at it as sharing our love of something unique. It just sounds so much
less selfish.
Jonathan Lane
-----Original Message-----
From: Reid Trummel [mailto:AHCUSA@excite.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2000 7:01 AM
To: Lane, Jonathan
Subject: Question for youth (was "RE: Good news may change restoration
plans")
Hi Jonathan,
I'm not exactly an old guy (48 years old), and even though I'm on the
younger edge of the Healey-owning demographic, you're something like 35, I
guess, and that puts you out there WAY on the younger edge of Healey
enthusiasts. So my question is something like this:
Since you came of age well after Healeys ceased being made, what got you
interested in Austin-Healeys? Can that event/situation/phenomenon be
repeated? Frankly I'm not a big supporter of this idea that "we have to get
the younger generation interested in these cars if they are to be
preserved," but I'm open-minded and would be interested in your thoughts on
this. Thanks.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2
1 x AN5, and looking for more...
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
On Thu, 21 Dec 2000 06:20:48 -0800, Lane, Jonathan wrote:
>
> I was the reason my dad sold his BT7 back in 1965. He bought a VW
> Squareback. I think the resentment lasts to this day. Either that or I
was
> just a rotten kid.
>
> Personally I would hold on to the Healey, work on it when you can and
take
> the kid for a drive when it finally gets done. I would imagine that on
> occasion you will need a little sanity break and Healeys are good for
that.
> The restoration will certainly slow down, but doesn't have to stop.
>
> Jonathan Lane
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ynotink [mailto:ynotink@qwest.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2000 6:35 PM
> To: Editorgary@aol.com
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Good news may change restoration plans
>
>
>
> That's all very true, but the biggest hidden cost of restoration has got
to
> be
> labor. A Healey in a basket, even if every part is present, cleaned,
> reconditioned and finished , still has to be assembled and no one works
as
> cheaply as you do. I doubt if anyone will give anywhere near the value of
> the
> finished car if they foresee months (or years) of assembly required.
>
> Too bad it has to go. I know the pressure that parenthood can put on a
> budget,
> but I predict that you will regret selling it. This feeling is from
> experience.
> When I got married back in the dark ages I had to sell my 1962 Corvette.
I
> have
> always missed it and I've never been in a position to afford another.
Even
> if I
> had just put it in storage!!!
>
> Good luck with whatever course you take.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Would agree with Feehan that once you get a restoration to the point
where
> it
> > just needs to be put together, you are probably going to lose money if
you
> > try to sell it as is. Certainly, I would advise a buyer to factor in
to a
> > purchase like this, the possibility that all parts may not be there --
> even
> > if you honestly and sincerely think they are (We've all gotten to that
> point
> > in our restoration where we can't find the framus that is needed before
> the
> > doohicky can be installed even though we're certain we stored it away
> > carefully when the car was disassembled.)
> >
> > Cheers
> > Gary
> >
> > In a message dated 12/20/00 2:29:00 AM, feehanr@cadvision.com writes:
> >
> > << I think you're looking at a huge loss if you try to sell the car
> > un-assembled. While the mods you made exclude you from concours
judgeing I
> > feel that all Healeys are going to increase in value in the next 10 to
15
> > years, even modified ones. Put it together so that you can show
> prospective
> > buyers that it runs and price it accordingly. >>
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 08:13:34 -0800
Subject: Fw: The Healey Story.
----- Original Message -----
From: "kirk kvam" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej@mossmotors.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2000 7:20 AM
Subject: Re: The Healey Story.
> For those who need a copy since Moss is out,
> try British Car Mag, AHCA, AHCUSA,
> Victoria British, etc.
>
> Kirk Kvam
> 62BT7#3
> 60BN7#405
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej@mossmotors.com>
> To: "Healeys (E-mail)" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2000 6:37 AM
> Subject: The Healey Story.
>
>
> >
> > Well just so people know, the 8 copies of this book are gone. Sorry I
> > couldn't get one for everyone who wanted them.
> >
> > Jonathan Lane
> > Retail Sales
> > Moss Motors, Ltd.
> > (800) 235-6954 x3240
> > (805) 692-2525 - Fax
> > lanej@mossmotors.com
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 12:22:14 EST
Subject: Restore or Sell
Someone suggested just keeping the car. Thought I'd pencil out some numbers,
as they say. Assume you can sell an unassembled but ready project car for
$15,000 (I think that's as far as anyone would go.) Assume you need the
money for the kids right now. If you were to borrow the money on a home
equity loan (tax deductible, 10 percent interest), you'd be paying an
average, say, $700 a year interest expense over ten years. So to avoid an
outlay of $7000 spread over ten years, you're giving up a Healey that you've
already invested a lot of your soul into. Sure you won't have much time for
the next two years to work on the car, but eventually you'll be able to put
it together.
As they might say in the credit card ad, "cost of the car: priceless."
There are lots of personal circumstances involved in one of these decisions,
I realize. But I haven't met a person yet who said "I used to own one of
those, but I gave it up when the kids came, and boy, am I glad that I did."
All the best to you and your wife for two healthy births and lots of joy with
the kids in the coming years.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 13:30:46 EST
Subject: RE: Question for youth (was "RE: Good news may change
As for the younger crowd, I'd have to say that I belong to that club too.
Being 34 I have Jonathin beat. I got into this british car thing by accident
having been a muscle car guy for years. Those have become rediculiously
expensive, so when the time came when I wanted a convertable, the $1500
sprite seemed like a bargin.
I never had any real experience with these cars before, and was born after a
lot of them were built. I wanted a big healey after I went to a meet and saw
one. Liked the lines of the car and was determined to have one one day.
Well that day came one friday at work while looking through the want ads and
found my 3000 there. I guess the "younger generation" will get into the cars
if they are the gear head type. They sell themselves.
Tim
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 10:50:01 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 -- and XJ6VP for sale
Delta Camshaft in Tacoma did the cam and lifters for my BN7 MK2. They even
had to build up one of the lobes. I'm very satisfied with their work. The
price was right, and the engine runs strong.
Their phone number is 253-383-4152 or 800-562-5500.
When I laid the cam on their counter, they said "That's an Austin Healey
cam." I said how did you recognize it so fast, and they said that they do
a lot of them.
John Snyder
----------
> From: Ed Santoro <esantoro@drbc.state.nj.us>
> To: tom felts <tfelts@prodigy.net>
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: BJ8 -- and XJ6VP for sale
> Date: Thursday, December 21, 2000 10:26 AM
>
>
> Tom: Just a thought, what about reconditioning the cam? I've had good
success
> with Delta Camshafts in Tacoma Washington, I don't remember their number
but
> I'm sure someone on the list has it. They do good work at a reasonable
price!
>
> tom felts wrote:
>
> > A while ago I thought it was time to do a good going over of my BJ8.
Engine
> > is now out and while out, I'll do lots of work on it. One thing we
found
> > today that amazes me and proves how tough these things are is that
every
> > piston had chunks out of the sides of them!! How it still ran and had
power
> > I'll never know. anyway, new pistons, tappets, rings, etc are in
order.
> >
> > Also, the cam shaft was pretty badly worn---will need a new one.
Anyone
> > have a new one for sale??
> >
> > On another note, I will be selling my 85 XJ6 VP. Car is in very good
> > condition--I would say excellent, but there is one flaw that you have
to
> > look for to see it. I had it repainted 2 years ago because the paint
was
> > "crazing". If you look in the right light you can still see faint
signs of
> > the crazing. Leather is beautiful, engine very strong and very
smooth--no
> > oil consumption. Trans very smooth. Car is black (base.clear) tan
> > interior. It is located in Pittsburgh, Pa nestled in a garage out of
the
> > snow----I don't drive it in the snow.
> >
> > I think $6800 is a good price for it. The Series III is the current
Jag
> > sedan "classic". I bought a 97 XJ6L today and don't need two of them.
> >
> > If interested, contact me off line.
> >
> > Regards
> > Tom
>
> --
> Edward D. Santoro, M.S.
> Monitoring Coordinator
> Delaware River Basin Commission
> 25 State Police Drive
> West Trenton, NJ
> 08628
> Tel:609 883-9500 ext 268
> Fax:609 883-9522
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 13:28:57 -0600
Subject: An accidental affair
Tim's message triggered a few memory cells - I was working on a Bugeye that
I'd had for about three months; with the car came a stack of Sprite books,
one being Dymock's Guide to Sprites.
Naturally, I was reading the books one by one as the car sat in the garage
(partly in boxes) and in Dymock's book I came upon a picture of DMH in a
100. Now, I had never seen nor heard of the Big Healey at that point and
the simple, black and white photograph just seared into my brain in an
instant. My retinas still have an after-image burned into them.
I stared at the picture and pronounced to my wife that I would one day own a
Big Healey, period. She smiled and nodded in that tolerant way a mother
would to an excited five-year-old and said gently "sure, after the Bugeye's
done".
Honestly, it was literally love at first sight, to use a well-worn cliche
that I had never believed in. I assumed that this was probably a
six-figure car and I was destined to be content with just drooling.
Three months later, the BJ8 literally plopped into my lap, sitting in a
garage barely five miles from me. The rest, as they say, was history.
Out went the unfinished Bugeye and in came the BJ8, all in the space of one
week. No regrets whatsoever, although I would love to own a Bugeye one
day.
And that, folks, is how this torrid affair with the Healey began.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Healybj8@aol.com [mailto:Healybj8@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2000 10:31 AM
To: lanej@mossmotors.com; ahcusa@excite.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Question for youth (was "RE: Good news may change
restoration plans")
As for the younger crowd, I'd have to say that I belong to that club too.
Being 34 I have Jonathin beat. I got into this british car thing by
accident
having been a muscle car guy for years. Those have become rediculiously
expensive, so when the time came when I wanted a convertable, the $1500
sprite seemed like a bargin.
I never had any real experience with these cars before, and was born after a
lot of them were built. I wanted a big healey after I went to a meet and
saw
one. Liked the lines of the car and was determined to have one one day.
Well that day came one friday at work while looking through the want ads and
found my 3000 there. I guess the "younger generation" will get into the
cars
if they are the gear head type. They sell themselves.
Tim
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 13:42:24 -0600
Subject: Re: An accidental affair
I was restoring the Hundred in the early 80's and the same thing... the
Blue Healey Book had a spread on the Bonneville effort...
I was absolutely stunned... and so began the quest to Join Donald Healey in
the Bonneville 200mph Club.... someday I will make that happen
Keith Turk ( 228.304mph on a 230 record at Bonneville... it's close but
they don't give out red hats for Close!!! )
----------
> From: Merchant, Adnan <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: An accidental affair
> Date: Thursday, December 21, 2000 1:28 PM
>
>
> Tim's message triggered a few memory cells - I was working on a Bugeye
that
> I'd had for about three months; with the car came a stack of Sprite
books,
> one being Dymock's Guide to Sprites.
>
> Naturally, I was reading the books one by one as the car sat in the
garage
> (partly in boxes) and in Dymock's book I came upon a picture of DMH in a
> 100. Now, I had never seen nor heard of the Big Healey at that point
and
> the simple, black and white photograph just seared into my brain in an
> instant. My retinas still have an after-image burned into them.
>
> I stared at the picture and pronounced to my wife that I would one day
own a
> Big Healey, period. She smiled and nodded in that tolerant way a mother
> would to an excited five-year-old and said gently "sure, after the
Bugeye's
> done".
>
> Honestly, it was literally love at first sight, to use a well-worn cliche
> that I had never believed in. I assumed that this was probably a
> six-figure car and I was destined to be content with just drooling.
>
> Three months later, the BJ8 literally plopped into my lap, sitting in a
> garage barely five miles from me. The rest, as they say, was history.
> Out went the unfinished Bugeye and in came the BJ8, all in the space of
one
> week. No regrets whatsoever, although I would love to own a Bugeye one
> day.
>
> And that, folks, is how this torrid affair with the Healey began.
>
> Regards,
> Adnan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healybj8@aol.com [mailto:Healybj8@aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2000 10:31 AM
> To: lanej@mossmotors.com; ahcusa@excite.com
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: Question for youth (was "RE: Good news may change
> restoration plans")
>
> As for the younger crowd, I'd have to say that I belong to that club too.
> Being 34 I have Jonathin beat. I got into this british car thing by
> accident
> having been a muscle car guy for years. Those have become rediculiously
> expensive, so when the time came when I wanted a convertable, the $1500
> sprite seemed like a bargin.
>
> I never had any real experience with these cars before, and was born
after a
>
> lot of them were built. I wanted a big healey after I went to a meet and
> saw
> one. Liked the lines of the car and was determined to have one one day.
> Well that day came one friday at work while looking through the want ads
and
>
> found my 3000 there. I guess the "younger generation" will get into the
> cars
> if they are the gear head type. They sell themselves.
>
> Tim
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 11:53:59 -0800
Subject: RE: Question for youth (was "RE: Good news may change
OK guys,
If we are on the 'who is the youngest Healey member' then I will
place my 10 cents worth.
I am 32 and I guess my excuse is that I have always had a passion for
vehicles/engines etc. My father is a mechanic and it is in my blood.
I used to race motorbikes (road) back in Australia and when I came
over to the US I bought a new Suzuki GSX1300R also known as the
Hayabusa (currently holding the world speed record for a production
motorcycle).
Besides the geneology I have a love for classic cars and have always
loved the big Healeys ... thus when my bike was stolen in LA I went
looking for a cheap car .. well long story later I found this RHD
100-six. The rest is history as is my bank account ... so far this
car is affectionately known as the black hole (financially) but the
end (refurbishing/restoring/fixing) is near and it will all be worth
it. I would love to be in a position where I never sell this car and
it is with me until I can 'pass it on'.
I don't think there is any correlation between age and passion and if
this car were to be released in 2001 as a new model, I would still be
drawn to it for all the same reasons I am now .. for me this is not
a nostalgia trip.
Happy Christmas all .. and thanks for all the assistance and advice this year.
Rohan.
BN4
At 1:30 PM -0500 12/21/00, Healybj8@aol.com wrote:
>As for the younger crowd, I'd have to say that I belong to that club too.
>Being 34 I have Jonathin beat. I got into this british car thing by accident
>having been a muscle car guy for years. Those have become rediculiously
>expensive, so when the time came when I wanted a convertable, the $1500
>sprite seemed like a bargin.
>
>I never had any real experience with these cars before, and was born after a
>lot of them were built. I wanted a big healey after I went to a meet and saw
>one. Liked the lines of the car and was determined to have one one day.
>Well that day came one friday at work while looking through the want ads and
>found my 3000 there. I guess the "younger generation" will get into the cars
>if they are the gear head type. They sell themselves.
>
>Tim
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 15:32:50 -0500
Subject: Your favorite Healey book
The recent discussion on Geoff Healey's last book go me thinking
about Healey books in general. Many have been written by Healey
family members, people who worked for BL and its predecessors, and
Healey enthusiasts.
I have my favorite, the Original Austin Healey by Anders Ditlev
Clausager. A present from my wife prior to the arrival of my Healey,
it was a constant bedside companion for almost a year. Great photos,
a nice concise history of the car, and of course, an excellent source
of information regarding originality and production figures.
I also liked The Handsome Brute by Chris Harvey and Austin-Healey 100
& 3000 Series by Graham Robson.
Obviously, this is a subject ripe for a poll. Since it's hard to
compare a history book to a picture book to a technical manual, let's
make some categories.
1. Marque History
2. Photography
3. Technical (shop manuals, drivers hand books, collections of
reviews, and the like)
4. Originality
5. Personal favorite (can also be listed in one of the above categories.)
To refresh your memories, here is a listing of some, but not all of
the Healey titles published over the years. The list is from
Amazon.com. Most of the titles are out of print, but many can still
be found.
OK, let's post away.
Herman
1. Austin-Healey 100/100-6/3000 Restoration Guide (Authentic
Restoration Guides) by Gary G. Anderson, Roger L. Moment (Paperback
- April 2000)
2. Austin-Healey 100 & 3000 (Sports Car Color History) by John
Heilig. Paperback (October 1995)
3. Mg Midget & Austin-Healey Sprite : Step-By-Step Service Guide
by Chilton. Paperback (June 1, 1998)
4. Essential Austin-Healey 100 & 3000 : The Cars and Their Story
1953-67 by Mike Lawrence. Paperback (October 1994)
5. Austin-Healey 100 & 3000 : 1952-1968 (Colour Classics) by
David McLavin, Andrew Tipping(Contributor). Paperback (November 1996)
6. Automobile Quarterly : Ferraris, Rolls-Royce, Austin-Healey
Hardcover (October 1987)
7. Mg Midget & Austin-Healey Sprite : Restoration, Preparation,
Maintenance by Jim Tyler. Paperback (April 1993)
8. Austin-Healey: The Complete Story by Geoffrey Healey,
Stirling Moss. Hardcover (January 1997)
9. The Complete Official Austin-Healey 100-Six and 3000,
1956-1968 : Comprising the Official Driver's Handbook, Workshop
Manual.
by Cambridge. Paperback (June 1980)
10. The Austin-Healey 100/4 Driver's Handbook, 1952-1956 by
British Leyland Motors, Robert Bentley. Hardcover (January 1999)
11. The Austin-Healey 100/6 Driver's Handbook, 1956-1959 by
British Leyland Motors, Robert Bentley. Hardcover (January 1999)
12. The Austin-Healey 3000 Mk 1 & 2 Driver's Handbook, 1959-1963
by British Leyland Motors. Hardcover (January 1999)
13. The Austin-Healey 3000 Mk 3 Driver's Handbook, 1964-1968 by
British Leyland Motors. Hardcover (January 1999)
14. Austin Healey 100-4, 100-6, 3000 and Sprite Mk, I-Iv,
1953-1972by Walter Zeichner. Hardcover (December 1989)
15. At the End of the Road : The Rise and Fall of Austin-Healy,
Mg, and Triumph Sports Cars (Industrial Development and the Social
Fabric, Vol 13)
16. Original Austin-Healey by Anders Ditlev Clausager.
17. Super Profile : Austin-Healey 'Frogeye' Sprite by Lindsay Porter.
18. MG Midget & Austin-Healey Sprite : guide to purchase & D.I.Y.
restoration by Lindsay Porter.
19. Healey : The Handsome Brute by Chris Harvey.
20. Austin Healey : The Story of the Big Healeys by Geoffrey Healey.
21. Healey : Compiled by Peter Garnier from the Archives of
Autocar by Peter Garnier.
22. The Austin Healey Sprite Mk 1 Workshop Manual by British
Leyalnd Motors.
23. The Austin Healey Sprite Mk 1 Drivers Handbook by British
Leyland Motors, Staff British Leyland Motors.
24. Austin Healey 100/6 and 3000, 1956-1968 autobook: a workshop
manual for the Austin Healey 100/6 and 3000 Mks 1, 2 and 3, 1956-1968
by Kenneth Ball.
25. Healeys and Austin-Healeys : including Jensen-Healey : an
illustrated history of the marque with specifications and tuning data
by Peter Browning.
26. MG Midget Austin Healey Sprite (except "Frogeye") by Lindsay Porter.
27. Austin Healey 100 : The Original 4-Cylinder Models (Super
Profile) by John Wheatley.
28. Austin Healey, 100/6 and 3000 : All the Big 6-Cylinder Models
(Super Profile Series) by John Wheatley.
29. More Healeys : Frog Eyes, Sprites and Midgets by Geoffrey Healey.
30. Healey : the Specials by Geoffrey Healey.
31. Austin Healy 100/6 (also includes reference to the Austin
Healy 3000) range: 1956-1967; workshop maintenance & repair manual
32. Austin Healey 100/6 & 3000, range: 1956-1968; workshop
maintenance & repair manual
33. Illustrated Austin-Healey Buyer's Guid
34. Austin Healey-Bn-1 & Bn-2 100/4 Shop Manual
35. Illustrated Austin-Healey Buyer's Guide (Motorbooks
International Illustrated Buyer's Guide) by Richard Newton.
36. The Jensen Healey stories by Peter Browning.
37. Austin Healey 100&3000 Collection 1 by R. M. Clarke.
38. Road & track on Austin Healey, 1953-1970
39. Austin-Healey 100 & 3000 Series (Autoclassics) by Graham Robson.
40. How to Power Tune the Mg Midget & Austin-Healey Sprite by
Daniel Stapleton.
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 12:33:10 -0800
Subject: Moving on.
Moss Motors is bound to be a much duller place from now on, as I'm sitting
here cleaning out my desk. Though I have known for some time that I would
be leaving and that the time was fast approaching, I suddenly realized that
it had in fact, approached. My last day in sales will be on Saturday,
though I doubt that I will accomplish much. I am off to Berkeley to study
English and finish my education. But fear not! Moss is a notoriously
diffifcult place to escape from and I will be doing catalog and web site
marketing stuff remotely from my friend's condo in Oakland. Flexible hours
and damn decent money. Cool scam, huh.
For those of you who I have had the pleasure of speaking to on the phones
here at Moss I appreciate your patronage and it has been my pleasure to help
you through your restorations. I hope you get as much fun out of your cars
as I do from mine.
For those I haven't spoken to, well, I guess that's just your loss, now
isn't it! :7)
My e-mail address will remain the same, though I imagine I will probably
have a tough time getting through all the Healey list stuff. My life won't
be so cush anymore. I hope to see you guys on the road up north! I'll be
closer to Tahoe and the Monterey Historics!
Jonathan Lane
Retail Sales
Moss Motors, Ltd.
(800) 235-6954 x3240
(805) 692-2525 - Fax
lanej@mossmotors.com
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 13:54:10 -0700
Subject: John DeLorean
Didn't get your last car from him? How about a new watch and a place in line
for the next super car? Check it out for yourselves..
http://www.deloreantime.com
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 15:49:20 EST
Subject: Re: Your favorite Healey book
Wow -- 40 books and I think I actually have most of them. Just never took
them down and counted them.
I would add at least two more to the list and Bob Segui might add even more:
One I'm reading now, which is great and in which the Healey plays a major
role is
The Seven Year Twitch by Marcus Chambers, in which he describes the people,
places and cars that played roles in the BMC Competition Department during
the seven years he was its manager, which began with recruiting a young Pat
Moss and ended with the beginning of the Minis in rally racing. I'm
thoroughly enjoying it. He documented everything, right down to whether the
restaurant where the crew ate the night before the Tulip Rally in 1959 was up
to the guide book's description. Did you know that Pat Moss chain-smoked
while rallying to balance the amphetamines she was taking to stay alert, that
Ann Wisdom was very shy, that the Morley brothers were twins but anything but
identical... and many other details that add color to the recitation of events
we find in most other books.
The Story So Far by Pat Moss -- Her side of the story, again putting the
human touch on the competition record.
Cheers
Gary
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 16:39:34 -0600
Subject: Re: An accidental affair
Adnan
Lovely thoughts and true passion - as a high school student cruising Wasagaming,
the town site in Riding Mountain National Park in Manitoba, for chicks in the
late 50's I saw my first Big Healey, probably a BN2 it was instant lust which
was finally satisfied 16 months ago!
Holiday greetings and a Joyous New Year
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
"Merchant, Adnan" wrote:
> Tim's message triggered a few memory cells - I was working on a Bugeye that
> I'd had for about three months; with the car came a stack of Sprite books,
> one being Dymock's Guide to Sprites.
>
> Naturally, I was reading the books one by one as the car sat in the garage
> (partly in boxes) and in Dymock's book I came upon a picture of DMH in a
> 100. Now, I had never seen nor heard of the Big Healey at that point and
> the simple, black and white photograph just seared into my brain in an
> instant. My retinas still have an after-image burned into them.
>
> I stared at the picture and pronounced to my wife that I would one day own a
> Big Healey, period. She smiled and nodded in that tolerant way a mother
> would to an excited five-year-old and said gently "sure, after the Bugeye's
> done".
>
> Honestly, it was literally love at first sight, to use a well-worn cliche
> that I had never believed in. I assumed that this was probably a
> six-figure car and I was destined to be content with just drooling.
>
> Three months later, the BJ8 literally plopped into my lap, sitting in a
> garage barely five miles from me. The rest, as they say, was history.
> Out went the unfinished Bugeye and in came the BJ8, all in the space of one
> week. No regrets whatsoever, although I would love to own a Bugeye one
> day.
>
> And that, folks, is how this torrid affair with the Healey began.
>
> Regards,
> Adnan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healybj8@aol.com [mailto:Healybj8@aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2000 10:31 AM
> To: lanej@mossmotors.com; ahcusa@excite.com
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: Question for youth (was "RE: Good news may change
> restoration plans")
>
> As for the younger crowd, I'd have to say that I belong to that club too.
> Being 34 I have Jonathin beat. I got into this british car thing by
> accident
> having been a muscle car guy for years. Those have become rediculiously
> expensive, so when the time came when I wanted a convertable, the $1500
> sprite seemed like a bargin.
>
> I never had any real experience with these cars before, and was born after a
>
> lot of them were built. I wanted a big healey after I went to a meet and
> saw
> one. Liked the lines of the car and was determined to have one one day.
> Well that day came one friday at work while looking through the want ads and
>
> found my 3000 there. I guess the "younger generation" will get into the
> cars
> if they are the gear head type. They sell themselves.
>
> Tim
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 16:39:03 -0600
Subject: Re: Fw: The Healey Story.
sorry, this book has been out of print for at least six months. we have none
left at austin healey club, usa.
jerry wall
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 17:56:30 EST
Subject: My Favorite Healey Book
My favorite book on Healeys would have to be the last one I ever would part
with. I can always find or buy one of the 40 books on Herman's list, but I
have an original 100-Six Owners Handbook that is signed with the inscription
"To Rudy, Hope you will never need this book. Donald Healey '84"
Rudy Streng in Lenoir NC
PS Merry Christmas & a Happy Healey New Year to All!
From "R. Markl/B. Council" <rmarkl at bellsouth.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 17:25:26 -0600
Subject: Re: My Favorite Healey Book
I know what you mean - my favorite is my original BN2 service manual
with Donald's ('81), Geoff's ('81) and Gerry's ('95) signatures.
Happy Holidays to those who have been "nice" on the List this year. And
for the "naughty" ones, well, there's still time to make New Years
resolutions...
Rudi Markl
100M
CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
>
> My favorite book on Healeys would have to be the last one I ever would part
> with. I can always find or buy one of the 40 books on Herman's list, but I
> have an original 100-Six Owners Handbook that is signed with the inscription
> "To Rudy, Hope you will never need this book. Donald Healey '84"
> Rudy Streng in Lenoir NC
> PS Merry Christmas & a Happy Healey New Year to All!
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 20:07:14 -0500
Subject: Re: 33 Years Ago Today
As Abington was closing I was ducking 122mm rockets and RPG's in a trench some
where in I Core, Republic of Viet Nam, having impure thoughts about the
management of the good old US of A.
BT7 1960
Jim Dalglish
Manasquan
Reid Trummel wrote:
> Season's Greetings everyone,
>
> For those interested in Healey history, today (December 21) is the 33rd
> anniversary of the closing of the big Healey production line at Abingdon.
> So hoist a Guinness and shed a tear in commemoration of the end of an era,
> and say a silent word of thanks that we can still drive and enjoy these cars
> by our collective efforts and interest in a marque, lo these many years
> later.
>
> Cheers,
> Reid Trummel
> Tampa, Florida
> 2 x BN2
> 1 x AN5, and looking for more...
> http://www.healey.org
> http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Send a cool gift with your E-Card
> http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 20:30:32 EST
Subject: Re: My Favorite Healey Book
In a message dated 12/21/00 3:28:31 PM, rmarkl@bellsouth.net writes:
<< Happy Holidays to those who have been "nice" on the List this year. And
for the "naughty" ones, well, there's still time to make New Years
resolutions... >>
Saw a note on the internet today that Dub-ya and Jim-Jim are entering a suit
with the U.S. Supreme court requesting it enjoin Santa from checking the list
more than once. Their appeal notes that the list has been check, re-checked,
and checked again, and enough is enough. With no common set of standards to
be applied, any elf might decide that someone who had been nice was in fact
naughty. Just too many opportunities for mischief. Baker has respectfully
requested that Santa concede and just give out the gifts based on his
original list.
Cheers
Gary
From "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 21:15:40 -0500
Subject: Fw: Restore or Sell
----- Original Message -----
From: "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims@email.msn.com>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2000 2:26 PM
Subject: Re: Restore or Sell
> I'll second what Gary says. I gave up a Healey 30 years ago when I started
a
> family. Mistake number one. About 20 years ago, I gave up another one
> because I thought that it would be too costly to restore. Mistake number
> two. My BN6 is going into the ground with me. If there is enough room left
> over for my wife when it is her time all the better.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> Cc: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2000 12:22 PM
> Subject: Restore or Sell
>
>
> >
> > Someone suggested just keeping the car. Thought I'd pencil out some
> numbers,
> > as they say. Assume you can sell an unassembled but ready project car
for
> > $15,000 (I think that's as far as anyone would go.) Assume you need the
> > money for the kids right now. If you were to borrow the money on a home
> > equity loan (tax deductible, 10 percent interest), you'd be paying an
> > average, say, $700 a year interest expense over ten years. So to avoid
an
> > outlay of $7000 spread over ten years, you're giving up a Healey that
> you've
> > already invested a lot of your soul into. Sure you won't have much time
> for
> > the next two years to work on the car, but eventually you'll be able to
> put
> > it together.
> >
> > As they might say in the credit card ad, "cost of the car: priceless."
> >
> > There are lots of personal circumstances involved in one of these
> decisions,
> > I realize. But I haven't met a person yet who said "I used to own one of
> > those, but I gave it up when the kids came, and boy, am I glad that I
> did."
> >
> > All the best to you and your wife for two healthy births and lots of joy
> with
> > the kids in the coming years.
> >
> > Cheers
> > Gary Anderson
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 21:37:07 EST
Subject: Re: 33 Years Ago Today
In a message dated 12/21/00 8:09:39 AM Pacific Standard Time,
AHCUSA@excite.com writes:
<< by our collective efforts and interest in a marque, lo these many years
later.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel >>
And my "interest in the marque, lo these many years later", was stimulated
today by the arrival of the terrific AHCUSA 2001 Austin Healey Calendar
today, featuring vintage racing photos of Donald Morley - Big Healey driver
Extraordinare. Great calendar, Reid.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From Robert Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 21:38:17 -0800
Subject: Re: Your favorite Healey book
The Original Austin Healey by Anders Ditlev Clausager used to be my favorite
until I started seeing the errors in it. And there are lots of them, sorry to
say. Anders has positioned himself to be the ultimate authority whether he's
right or wrong. I have a couple of nasty "go-rounds" with him and I'll tell you
right now, Gary Anderson knows a lot more about the marque than he does. Anders
may be into some of the truly esoteric stuff, but he's as flexible as steel
rod. It's either his way, or no way. So I've cast his book off as semi fiction.
Roger and Gary's book has been much, much more help.
Bob Denton
100-6/BN6 soon to be concours
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 20:30:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Good news may change restoration plans
His biggest shock is going to be the offers he gets. I doubt he'll be
offered enough to recover what he's spent on the work he's had done to date.
I think it might be a good idea to find out for himself by advertising the
car for sale. There's nothing like a little reality to make you change what
you think is a good decision even though it may not be his decision.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
-----Original Message-----
From: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, December 20, 2000 9:42 PM
Subject: Re: Good news may change restoration plans
>
>That's all very true, but the biggest hidden cost of restoration has got to
be
>labor. A Healey in a basket, even if every part is present, cleaned,
>reconditioned and finished , still has to be assembled and no one works as
>cheaply as you do. I doubt if anyone will give anywhere near the value of
the
>finished car if they foresee months (or years) of assembly required.
>
>Too bad it has to go. I know the pressure that parenthood can put on a
budget,
>but I predict that you will regret selling it. This feeling is from
experience.
>When I got married back in the dark ages I had to sell my 1962 Corvette. I
have
>always missed it and I've never been in a position to afford another. Even
if I
>had just put it in storage!!!
>
>Good luck with whatever course you take.
>
>Bill Lawrence
>
>Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
>> Would agree with Feehan that once you get a restoration to the point
where it
>> just needs to be put together, you are probably going to lose money if
you
>> try to sell it as is. Certainly, I would advise a buyer to factor in to
a
>> purchase like this, the possibility that all parts may not be there --
even
>> if you honestly and sincerely think they are (We've all gotten to that
point
>> in our restoration where we can't find the framus that is needed before
the
>> doohicky can be installed even though we're certain we stored it away
>> carefully when the car was disassembled.)
>>
>> Cheers
>> Gary
>>
>> In a message dated 12/20/00 2:29:00 AM, feehanr@cadvision.com writes:
>>
>> << I think you're looking at a huge loss if you try to sell the car
>> un-assembled. While the mods you made exclude you from concours judgeing
I
>> feel that all Healeys are going to increase in value in the next 10 to 15
>> years, even modified ones. Put it together so that you can show
prospective
>> buyers that it runs and price it accordingly. >>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 22:30:56 EST
Subject: Re: Your favorite Healey book
In a message dated 12/21/00 6:40:05 PM, foxriverkid@earthlink.net writes:
<< I have a couple of nasty "go-rounds" with him and I'll tell you
right now, Gary Anderson knows a lot more about the marque than he does.
Anders
may be into some of the truly esoteric stuff, but he's as flexible as steel
rod. >>
Let me correct that -- Roger Moment is the brains and memory in this duo --
I'm just the wordsmith -- and the nimnull who signed the contract. We've
both agreed that if Roger had written the book alone, it still wouldn't be
perfect enough to release; if I had written the book it would have been
printed sooner, but not worth buying.
Cheers
gary
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 20:39:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Good news may change restoration plans
Nah, cmo'n Jonathon. Rotten kids drive Beemers. They're not Healey
afficianados like you. Your dad chose between two loves and if you can still
ask him he'll tell you he made the right choice. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
Merry Christ and happy New Year.
-----Original Message-----
From: Lane, Jonathan <lanej@mossmotors.com>
To: 'ynotink' <ynotink@qwest.net>; Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, December 21, 2000 9:25 AM
Subject: RE: Good news may change restoration plans
>
>I was the reason my dad sold his BT7 back in 1965. He bought a VW
>Squareback. I think the resentment lasts to this day. Either that or I
was
>just a rotten kid.
>
>Personally I would hold on to the Healey, work on it when you can and take
>the kid for a drive when it finally gets done. I would imagine that on
>occasion you will need a little sanity break and Healeys are good for that.
>The restoration will certainly slow down, but doesn't have to stop.
>
>Jonathan Lane
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: ynotink [mailto:ynotink@qwest.net]
>Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2000 6:35 PM
>To: Editorgary@aol.com
>Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Good news may change restoration plans
>
>
>
>That's all very true, but the biggest hidden cost of restoration has got to
>be
>labor. A Healey in a basket, even if every part is present, cleaned,
>reconditioned and finished , still has to be assembled and no one works as
>cheaply as you do. I doubt if anyone will give anywhere near the value of
>the
>finished car if they foresee months (or years) of assembly required.
>
>Too bad it has to go. I know the pressure that parenthood can put on a
>budget,
>but I predict that you will regret selling it. This feeling is from
>experience.
>When I got married back in the dark ages I had to sell my 1962 Corvette. I
>have
>always missed it and I've never been in a position to afford another. Even
>if I
>had just put it in storage!!!
>
>Good luck with whatever course you take.
>
>Bill Lawrence
>
>Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
>> Would agree with Feehan that once you get a restoration to the point
where
>it
>> just needs to be put together, you are probably going to lose money if
you
>> try to sell it as is. Certainly, I would advise a buyer to factor in to
a
>> purchase like this, the possibility that all parts may not be there --
>even
>> if you honestly and sincerely think they are (We've all gotten to that
>point
>> in our restoration where we can't find the framus that is needed before
>the
>> doohicky can be installed even though we're certain we stored it away
>> carefully when the car was disassembled.)
>>
>> Cheers
>> Gary
>>
>> In a message dated 12/20/00 2:29:00 AM, feehanr@cadvision.com writes:
>>
>> << I think you're looking at a huge loss if you try to sell the car
>> un-assembled. While the mods you made exclude you from concours judgeing
I
>> feel that all Healeys are going to increase in value in the next 10 to 15
>> years, even modified ones. Put it together so that you can show
>prospective
>> buyers that it runs and price it accordingly. >>
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 23:18:05 EST
Subject: Re: Question for youth (was "RE: Good news may change
Hi there old timers!
I am 30 and in the process of restoring my BJ8...actually it is more together
now since I am moving out of state. Prepared for travel as it were. My
Grandfather always had a Healey, my Uncle has always had one more or less,
and my Dad had one or two before I was born. You might say that I have had
this affliction since birth, but I did not know it until Healeys were too
expensive for me. In high school a friend of mine had a Triumph GT6 that was
running poorly. Somehow I just knew that I could help. Well, a carb rebuild
and about 20 minutes with a Unisyn and I knew that there was something about
British cars...but I could not put my finger on it. At 25 I knew that I
wanted a Healey, but found I could not afford one so I bought a TR3. The TR
was a lot of fun and I enjoyed it, but something was still missing. The
SOUND of a Healey. The CURVES of a Healey. Nothing else like it in the
world. So two years later at 27 I bought my first Healey...a basket case for
the most part. I can't wait to finish and hear that sweet exhaust note...BJ7
pipes of course, since the BJ8 setup is two quiet for me. The sound can't be
reproduced by any other car.
As far as preservation, I am all for it. We will all be sorry if our cars
are scrapped due to lack of interest after we are all gone.
Cheers and Happy Holidays,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
<< Since you came of age well after Healeys ceased being made, what got you
interested in Austin-Healeys? Can that event/situation/phenomenon be
repeated? Frankly I'm not a big supporter of this idea that "we have to get
the younger generation interested in these cars if they are to be
preserved," but I'm open-minded and would be interested in your thoughts on
this. Thanks.
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 22:51:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Question for youth (was "RE: Good news may change
Curves first, sound second, hooked. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
-----Original Message-----
From: Csooch1@aol.com <Csooch1@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, December 21, 2000 11:21 PM
Subject: Re: Question for youth (was "RE: Good news may change restoration
plans")
>
>Hi there old timers!
>I am 30 and in the process of restoring my BJ8...actually it is more
together
>now since I am moving out of state. Prepared for travel as it were. My
>Grandfather always had a Healey, my Uncle has always had one more or less,
>and my Dad had one or two before I was born. You might say that I have had
>this affliction since birth, but I did not know it until Healeys were too
>expensive for me. In high school a friend of mine had a Triumph GT6 that
was
>running poorly. Somehow I just knew that I could help. Well, a carb
rebuild
>and about 20 minutes with a Unisyn and I knew that there was something
about
>British cars...but I could not put my finger on it. At 25 I knew that I
>wanted a Healey, but found I could not afford one so I bought a TR3. The
TR
>was a lot of fun and I enjoyed it, but something was still missing. The
>SOUND of a Healey. The CURVES of a Healey. Nothing else like it in the
>world. So two years later at 27 I bought my first Healey...a basket case
for
>the most part. I can't wait to finish and hear that sweet exhaust
note...BJ7
>pipes of course, since the BJ8 setup is two quiet for me. The sound can't
be
>reproduced by any other car.
>
>As far as preservation, I am all for it. We will all be sorry if our cars
>are scrapped due to lack of interest after we are all gone.
>Cheers and Happy Holidays,
>Chris
>BJ8
>XJ6
><< Since you came of age well after Healeys ceased being made, what got you
> interested in Austin-Healeys? Can that event/situation/phenomenon be
> repeated? Frankly I'm not a big supporter of this idea that "we have to
get
> the younger generation interested in these cars if they are to be
> preserved," but I'm open-minded and would be interested in your thoughts
on
> this. Thanks.
From Bruce Steele <bsteele2 at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 22:23:12 -0800
Subject: Thanks for your help
Just a note of thanks to all those who responded to my plea for the
email exchanges re fuel guage flutter. Good infomation. A ground
wire from the sending unit seems to have quieted it down sufficiently.
I'll do better at saving these valuable technical discourses in the
future.
Bruce
bsteele2@pacbell.net
1960 BN7
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 14:57:19 +0000
Subject: Re: Hundred Registry / was BJ8 Registry, etc.
Rich
I have left replying to this Email of yours for over two months in the
hope that somebody would respond. Now that nobody has, I feel able to
repeat my offer made at various times in the past.
I still do not wish to "step on anybodies toes" but if owners wish to
send me details of their 100s I will gladly add these to our UK 100
Register. We now have 952 entries in this register but please note that
these are not all necessarily relating to surviving cars. For example we
include in our Register requests for information about cars which were
owned by somebody many years ago and who are trying to find out if their
car still survives. Where we do not know the answer we put this on the
database. Should this car later surface we will get back to the earlier
owner but only if the present owner agrees.
Registrations may be entered at
http://www.jharper.demon.co.uk/100reg1.htm
All the best to everybody for Christmas and the New Year
>
>Who is presently taking care of the Hundred Registry?
>I have quite a bit of ser. no. info that should be documented, including
>cars presently existing, and those that have most definetly "passed on".
>Rich Chrysler
>
--
John Harper
From "Steve Jowett" <enquiries at ukhealey.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 09:37:01 -0000
Subject: the healey story
We still have some of "The Healey Story" books left.
Steve
UK HEALEY
AUSTIN HEALEY - MG - TRIUMPH - JAGUAR
ASTON MARTIN
www.ukhealey.co.uk
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 06:34:39 -0600
Subject: Re: Fw: Restore or Sell
maybe that's just a bn6 cult !!
----- Original Message -----
From: "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims@email.msn.com>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Fw: Restore or Sell
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 21:15:40 -0500
----- Original Message -----
From: "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims@email.msn.com>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2000 2:26 PM
Subject: Re: Restore or Sell
> I'll second what Gary says. I gave up a Healey 30 years ago when I started
a
> family. Mistake number one. About 20 years ago, I gave up another one
> because I thought that it would be too costly to restore. Mistake number
> two. My BN6 is going into the ground with me. If there is enough room left
> over for my wife when it is her time all the better.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> Cc: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2000 12:22 PM
> Subject: Restore or Sell
>
>
> >
> > Someone suggested just keeping the car. Thought I'd pencil out some
> numbers,
> > as they say. Assume you can sell an unassembled but ready project car
for
> > $15,000 (I think that's as far as anyone would go.) Assume you need the
> > money for the kids right now. If you were to borrow the money on a home
> > equity loan (tax deductible, 10 percent interest), you'd be paying an
> > average, say, $700 a year interest expense over ten years. So to avoid
an
> > outlay of $7000 spread over ten years, you're giving up a Healey that
> you've
> > already invested a lot of your soul into. Sure you won't have much time
> for
> > the next two years to work on the car, but eventually you'll be able to
> put
> > it together.
> >
> > As they might say in the credit card ad, "cost of the car: priceless."
> >
> > There are lots of personal circumstances involved in one of these
> decisions,
> > I realize. But I haven't met a person yet who said "I used to own one of
> > those, but I gave it up when the kids came, and boy, am I glad that I
> did."
> >
> > All the best to you and your wife for two healthy births and lots of joy
> with
> > the kids in the coming years.
> >
> > Cheers
> > Gary Anderson
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 06:40:17 -0600
Subject: Re: Your favorite Healey book
.............and a sense of humour !!
----- Original Message -----
From: Editorgary@aol.com
Subject: Your favorite Healey book
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 22:30:56 EST
In a message dated 12/21/00 6:40:05 PM, foxriverkid@earthlink.net writes:
<< I have a couple of nasty "go-rounds" with him and I'll tell you
right now, Gary Anderson knows a lot more about the marque than he does.
Anders
may be into some of the truly esoteric stuff, but he's as flexible as steel
rod. >>
Let me correct that -- Roger Moment is the brains and memory in this duo --
I'm just the wordsmith -- and the nimnull who signed the contract. We've
both agreed that if Roger had written the book alone, it still wouldn't be
perfect enough to release; if I had written the book it would have been
printed sooner, but not worth buying.
Cheers
gary
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 08:58:17 -0500
Subject: Fw: Exhaust
I'm trying to make up my mind between two types of exhaust systems for my
BJ8. The ANSA with the beautiful chrome extensions or the stainless steel
system. ANSA is more expensive.
I want the sweet Healey sound.
Anyone care to comment/compare the two?
Regards
Tom
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 08:40:16 EST
Subject: Re: Fw: Exhaust
Hi Tom,
I have a stainless steel system on my 100-Six and I put one on my BJ8. Both
have that great Healey sound.
Rudy Streng
From "Robert J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 08:59:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Fw: Exhaust
Am I allowed to brag a little bit? I will any way. I have the original
exhaust system on my 1958 BN-6 and it sounds fantastic. The system is
flawless in condition since my car has only 10,259 miles on it.
Sorry, didn't mean to brag/boast like that. (grin)
Arjay
tom felts wrote:
> I'm trying to make up my mind between two types of exhaust systems for my
> BJ8. The ANSA with the beautiful chrome extensions or the stainless steel
> system. ANSA is more expensive.
>
> I want the sweet Healey sound.
>
> Anyone care to comment/compare the two?
>
> Regards
> Tom
From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 06:06:31 -0800
Subject: RE: My Favorite Healey Book
I heard the same thing! Here's the official thing straight off the AP
wire...
BUSH SUES SANTA
AUSTIN, TX - Dec.15 - Attorneys for Texas Governor George W. Bush filed suit
in federal court today, seeking to prevent Santa Claus from making his list
and then checking it twice. The complaint seeks an immediate injunction
against the beloved Christmas icon, asking the court to effectively ban his
traditional practice of checking the list of good boys and girls one
additional time before packing his sleigh.
The suit, filed in the Federal District Court of Austin, Texas, asks a
federal judge to "hereby order Mr. Claus to cease and desist all repetitive
and duplicative list-checking activity, and certify the original list as
submitted, without amendment, alteration, deletion, or other unnecessary
modification."
"There are no standards for deciding who is naughty, and who is nice. It's
totally arbitrary and capricious. How many more times does he need to check?
This checking, checking, and re-checking over and over again must stop now,"
said former Secretary James Baker.
Baker further claimed that unnamed GOP observers witnessed an elf remove all
boys named Brad from the "nice" list, filing them under "naughty" instead
because "everyone knows all boys named Brad are brats."
Gov. Bush cited the potential for unauthorized list tampering, and blasted
what he called the "fuzzy math up there at the North Pole."
"Their security is really awful, really bad," said Bush. "My mother just
walked right in, told 'em she was Mrs. Claus. They didn't check her ID or
nothing."
Meanwhile, Dick Cheney, Gov. Bush's running mate, issued a direct plea to
St. Nick himself. "Mr. Claus, I call on you to do the honorable thing, and
quit checking your list. The children of the world have had enough. They
demand closure now," Cheney said, adding that his granddaughter has already
selected a name for the pony that she's asked for.
Santa Claus could not be reached for comment, but a spokes-elf said he was
"deeply distressed" by news of the pending legal action against him. "He's
losing weight, and he hasn't said 'Ho Ho Ho' for days," said the spokes-elf.
"He's just not feeling jolly."
Jonathan Lane
Retail Sales
Moss Motors, Ltd.
(800) 235-6954 x3240
(805) 692-2525 - Fax
lanej@mossmotors.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2000 5:31 PM
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: My Favorite Healey Book
In a message dated 12/21/00 3:28:31 PM, rmarkl@bellsouth.net writes:
<< Happy Holidays to those who have been "nice" on the List this year. And
for the "naughty" ones, well, there's still time to make New Years
resolutions... >>
Saw a note on the internet today that Dub-ya and Jim-Jim are entering a suit
with the U.S. Supreme court requesting it enjoin Santa from checking the
list
more than once. Their appeal notes that the list has been check, re-checked,
and checked again, and enough is enough. With no common set of standards to
be applied, any elf might decide that someone who had been nice was in fact
naughty. Just too many opportunities for mischief. Baker has respectfully
requested that Santa concede and just give out the gifts based on his
original list.
Cheers
Gary
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 22:10:56 +0800
Subject: Re: Your favorite Healey book
Gary
I have searched my local sources and Amazon.com but can't find those 2
titles you mention. Can you supply an ISBN please and I will add them to my
wish list for Christmas.
And to add to the list - how about
The Big Healey by Graham Robson
My World of Cars by Donald Healey
The Works Big Healeys by Peter Browning
Austin-Healey 3000 Ultimate Portolio by Brooklands Books.
Regards
John Rowe
BT7 in restoration
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2000 4:49 AM
Subject: Re: Your favorite Healey book
>
> Wow -- 40 books and I think I actually have most of them. Just never took
> them down and counted them.
>
> I would add at least two more to the list and Bob Segui might add even
more:
>
> One I'm reading now, which is great and in which the Healey plays a major
> role is
>
> The Seven Year Twitch by Marcus Chambers, in which he describes the
people,
> places and cars that played roles in the BMC Competition Department during
> the seven years he was its manager, which began with recruiting a young
Pat
> Moss and ended with the beginning of the Minis in rally racing. I'm
> thoroughly enjoying it. He documented everything, right down to whether
the
> restaurant where the crew ate the night before the Tulip Rally in 1959 was
up
> to the guide book's description. Did you know that Pat Moss chain-smoked
> while rallying to balance the amphetamines she was taking to stay alert,
that
> Ann Wisdom was very shy, that the Morley brothers were twins but anything
but
> identical... and many other details that add color to the recitation of
events
> we find in most other books.
>
> The Story So Far by Pat Moss -- Her side of the story, again putting the
> human touch on the competition record.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 22:24:53 +0800
Subject: BT7 bonnet fittings colour
Hi All
I am in the process of painting bits and pieces of my BT7 and need some
clarification of paint colours particularly those little pieces around the
bonnet opening.
we have the 2 bonnet catches attached to the bonnet
the catch plates attached to the opening on the shroud
the piece on the side of the bonnet opening that holds the bonnet stay
the catch at the front of the bonnet and the corresponding piece with the
coil spring on the edge of the bonnet opening
the "L" shaped lever that connects the bonnet release rod to the item above
Which of these items are painted body colour and which are painted black?
TIA
Regards and Merry Christmas to you all
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia - the most isolated capital City in the World
BT7 in the finishing stages
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 09:01:08 -0600
Subject: Re: Exhaust
<<Anyone care to comment/compare the two?>>
My .02, Tom. The mild steel system is what I opted for years ago. Still
like new. BEST sound (IMHO). And basically, you could say original. Made
by Walker of Eng.
FWIW, remember, the mufflers are warrenteed by an English firm NOT USA
firm(s). A neighbor/friend/customer had a F****n on his BJ-7; baffle broke
(and rattled like crazy). He called them; they said send it back and they
would THEN determine if it was a Manufacturing defect OR not.
Guess where the whole system went?!?!?<G>
Ed
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 10:08:02 EST
Subject: Hot Wheels Healeys
My collector friend has managed to find about five of the models.
He told me yesterday that he would be willing to sell a couple of them.
The Hot Wheels site says they are now worth $10.00 U.S. (I got mine for
$5.00). Keep in mind that these cost my buddy less than a buck each...but he
spends hours looking through the store displays. The models seem to be on
the same rarity scale as the real wheels.
Anyway, if any of you have any interest, e-mail me and I'll put you in touch
with my friend.
Steve
BN 0.5 (half way there)
From "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 10:32:27 -0500
Subject: Re: the healey story
For some reason, I have two copies of "The Healey Story" I will be happy to
help someone out with a copy for my cost plus postage. First in gets it.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, Nj
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Jowett" <enquiries@ukhealey.co.uk>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2000 4:37 AM
Subject: the healey story
>
> We still have some of "The Healey Story" books left.
>
> Steve
> UK HEALEY
>
> AUSTIN HEALEY - MG - TRIUMPH - JAGUAR
> ASTON MARTIN
>
> www.ukhealey.co.uk
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 11:19:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Hot Wheels Healeys
Hey all,
In the past three days or so I have been in different local Wall-Mart
stores. As I walked past the toy department I have stopped at the Hot Wheels
display. The day before yesterday....and yesterday also I walked up to see a
little black-over-gray Healey hanging there. Right on the very outside end
of the hook. So each day I grabbed one. I now own two of those little
models. If that's any indication, they're not that rare.
I'm thinking of taking a hot knife to that stupid thing that's sticking out
of the hood, and then filling the hole with some bondo. I quick respray and
maybe it'll actually look more like what it was supposed to. We'll
see....I'd have to find the time of course.
Dave
BJ8
TR4A
----- Original Message -----
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2000 10:08 AM
Subject: Hot Wheels Healeys
>
> My collector friend has managed to find about five of the models.
>
> He told me yesterday that he would be willing to sell a couple of them.
>
> The Hot Wheels site says they are now worth $10.00 U.S. (I got mine for
> $5.00). Keep in mind that these cost my buddy less than a buck each...but
he
> spends hours looking through the store displays. The models seem to be on
> the same rarity scale as the real wheels.
>
> Anyway, if any of you have any interest, e-mail me and I'll put you in
touch
> with my friend.
>
> Steve
> BN 0.5 (half way there)
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 08:05:08 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust
Tom,
The ANSA produces a somewhat higher pitched exhaust note than stock systems.
The
chrome extensions are actually small glass-pack mufflers, and I believe this
smoothes the
exhaust pulses.
Supposedly -- don't have personal experience -- the note of the SS unit is more
or less like
the stock systems.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
Tom Felts wrote:
>
> I'm trying to make up my mind between two types of exhaust systems for my
> BJ8. The ANSA with the beautiful chrome extensions or the stainless steel
> system. ANSA is more expensive.
>
> I want the sweet Healey sound.
>
> Anyone care to comment/compare the two?
>
> Regards
> Tom
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 08:40:54 -0800
Subject: Re: Hot Wheels Healeys
There's are least 30 of them on eBay!
-----------------
At 07:08 AM 12/22/2000, you wrote:
>My collector friend has managed to find about five of the models.
>
>He told me yesterday that he would be willing to sell a couple of them.
>
>The Hot Wheels site says they are now worth $10.00 U.S. (I got mine for
>$5.00). Keep in mind that these cost my buddy less than a buck each...but he
>spends hours looking through the store displays. The models seem to be on
>the same rarity scale as the real wheels.
>
>Anyway, if any of you have any interest, e-mail me and I'll put you in touch
>with my friend.
>
>Steve
>BN 0.5 (half way there)
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 11:55:01 EST
Subject: Grey Interiors on BJ8s
A friend who is restoring a BRG BJ8 was considering finishing it with a
saddle tan interior (a la XK150s). Cringing in shock, I've tried to talk him
out of it, since Healeys NEVER were built with tan interiors. Never.
I suggested he consider a grey interior, with green piping and carpets, which
we know was used in Healeys from the 100-Sixes through the BJ7s on the
Florida green and pacific green cars. (for those who aren't familiar, the
color is actually a parchment beige.) We also know that the dealer color
chip brochure for the BJ8s showed that the "grey" interior was available for
red cars and florida green cars (until the florida green was phased out and
replaced by the golden beige.
Question: Has anyone ever seen a BJ8 with a grey interior, either on red or
green cars? If so, we'd like to get some basic information: did it have
contrasting piping? Did it have the pressed-in squares on the seats? Did it
have the quilted pattern in the tonneau area?
Any help would be appreciated.
Gary Anderson
Chairman, AH Concours Registry
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 12:18:08 EST
Subject: Re: Exhaust
I use the free-flow set up on my 100 Six and love it. It is less restrictive
and gives a noticable power increase. The sound (described by one on the list
as a higher pitch) is actually a lower deeper sound because of the added
diameter of the pipes and the resonator tips that allow longer sound waves as
typical in a change to wider pipes. Trumpet =high, tuba=low.
The Monza pipes are mild steel so they are softer than the SS pipes and
therefore absorb a lot of the higher frequencies that make the SS systems
seem a bit "tinny" to some.
You mention the price difference...BJ8 Stainless from Moss is $539 (I know,
not the cheapest) and the Monza is only $200. The Monza doesn't have a direct
bolt on for the BJ8 though it is an easy job.
Rick
San Diego
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 12:26:05 EST
Subject: Re: Grey Interiors on BJ8s
In a message dated 12/22/2000 10:56:49 Central Standard Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< A friend who is restoring a BRG BJ8 was considering finishing it with a
saddle tan interior (a la XK150s). Cringing in shock, I've tried to talk
him
out of it, since Healeys NEVER were built with tan interiors. Never. >>
If your friend wants to see what a BRG with tan top and interior looks like
check the photo page of the NTAHC <http://www.ntahc.austin1.com/> web site. I
have one on that page with photos.
Don Lenschow
Mr. Non Original, but like the looks
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 09:33:45 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust
All this talk of exhaust systems has me starting to rethink my system. My
car came with a perfectly good Monza free flow exhaust. The tail pipes exit
out the left side. The system is, to say the least, loud and very, ummm...
authoritative. I love the sound of the car when I first rev her up in the
morning, my neighbors probably don't. I have to admit that the exhaust note
is tiring on long drives. Does anyone have any thoughts on the Monza system,
pro or con? Randy ('66 BJ8)
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 13:15:10 EST
Subject: Re: Your favorite Healey book
Referring to Marcus Chambers' The Seven Year Twitch, and Pat Moss's The Story
So Far -- these books have both been out of print for nearly 30 years. Mine
both were located by a second-hand book locater that a friend of mine found
on the internet. I don't have the web site, so if anyone else can offer
suggestions on locating out-of-print car books, we'd all appreciate it.
Cheers
Gary
In a message dated 12/22/00 6:10:09 AM, jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au writes:
<<
I have searched my local sources and Amazon.com but can't find those 2
titles you mention. Can you supply an ISBN please and I will add them to my
wish list for Christmas. >>
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 11:14:04 -0800
Subject: Re: Your favorite Healey book
http://www.bibliofind.com/
--------------------------
At 10:15 AM 12/22/2000, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>Referring to Marcus Chambers' The Seven Year Twitch, and Pat Moss's The Story
>So Far -- these books have both been out of print for nearly 30 years. Mine
>both were located by a second-hand book locater that a friend of mine found
>on the internet. I don't have the web site, so if anyone else can offer
>suggestions on locating out-of-print car books, we'd all appreciate it.
>Cheers
>Gary
>
>In a message dated 12/22/00 6:10:09 AM, jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au writes:
>
><<
>
>I have searched my local sources and Amazon.com but can't find those 2
>
>titles you mention. Can you supply an ISBN please and I will add them to my
>
>wish list for Christmas. >>
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 11:18:22 -0800
Subject: RE: My Favorite Healey Book
Now wait just a minute...
Brad Weldon
webmaster, AHCUSA
http://healey.org/
>
> Baker further claimed that unnamed GOP observers witnessed an elf
> remove all
> boys named Brad from the "nice" list, filing them under "naughty" instead
> because "everyone knows all boys named Brad are brats."
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 13:26:40 -0600
Subject: So Al Website
Guys I built this website and it was my first attempt at one...
got it done yesterday and immediately messed it up... I just up loaded it
again and I think it's okay now...
I even upgraded it with a couple of Pictures of the Rodeck D Motor and the
Six speed in the shop section...
it's not much to look at but it's a start... you have to go to this
Address without using the www okay... just copy it here and paste it in the
address...
hometown.ala.net/~kturk
it should work just like that...
Merry Christmas everyone
Keith Turk
Austin Healey 100, Bugeye, Box sprites, Bonneville Camaro ( Land Speed
Racer)
From "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 14:36:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Hot Wheels Healeys
As I posted to the list a couple of weeks ago, these cars are readily
available at Bradlees, K-Mart and other similar stores. All one has to do is
to be diligent in searching through the racks. The last time I looked, I
bought 5 of them and they were on discount for forty-five cents each. It
took me less than five minutes to go through the display and I did this
while my wife was shopping so instead of being totally bored, I was doing
something worthwhile. It just blows my mind that someone would bid several
dollars for these on E-Bay.
Hmmmm. Let me see - forty five cents turned into five dollars for five
minutes work. I think I'll cash out my IRA What a rate of return on
investment.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2000 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: Hot Wheels Healeys
>
> There's are least 30 of them on eBay!
>
> -----------------
> At 07:08 AM 12/22/2000, you wrote:
>
> >My collector friend has managed to find about five of the models.
> >
> >He told me yesterday that he would be willing to sell a couple of them.
> >
> >The Hot Wheels site says they are now worth $10.00 U.S. (I got mine for
> >$5.00). Keep in mind that these cost my buddy less than a buck
each...but he
> >spends hours looking through the store displays. The models seem to be
on
> >the same rarity scale as the real wheels.
> >
> >Anyway, if any of you have any interest, e-mail me and I'll put you in
touch
> >with my friend.
> >
> >Steve
> >BN 0.5 (half way there)
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 15:00:25 EST
Subject: Re: Your favorite Healey book
In a message dated 12/21/2000 8:32:11 PM Mountain Standard Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<<
Let me correct that -- Roger Moment is the brains and memory in this duo --
I'm just the wordsmith -- and the nimnull who signed the contract. We've
both agreed that if Roger had written the book alone, it still wouldn't be
perfect enough to release; if I had written the book it would have been
printed sooner, but not worth buying.
Cheers
gary >>
Gary's kind words belie all the research he did through the parts books and
other tomes published on Healeys. Each of us has strengths, and there is
much I didn't know and learned from his efforts. I'm more "hardware"
oriented, and he is more to the "software" side. As I've said before, as a
team we really worked very well as the strengths each of us brought to the
table complimented each other quite well.
One sad fact is that as I get older (and I suspect I'm not alone in this),
all the stuff I know today will be 1/4 forgotten a month or two down the
road, and 1/2 misplaced in my mind a year from now. That is why I have taken
lots of pictures of original or correct cars, and am trying to get my 100 so
"perfect". These become the sources that I "look up" when questions arise.
Now that my 3000 has been sold, There are a lot of details that I'm not able
to fill in so readily -- pictures only show so much.
Roger
PS --- is there much interest out there in a really detailed book, with color
photos, on the 100s, with emphasis on the late BN1. We're talking
documenting lots of "how it seems to have wnet" stuff through photos taken
during a careful restoration. Just wondering.
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 15:00:22 EST
Subject: Re: BT7 bonnet fittings colour
In a message dated 12/22/2000 7:24:06 AM Mountain Standard Time,
jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au writes:
<<
Hi All
I am in the process of painting bits and pieces of my BT7 and need some
clarification of paint colours particularly those little pieces around the
bonnet opening.
we have the 2 bonnet catches attached to the bonnet
Body color.
the catch plates attached to the opening on the shroud
Body color.
the piece on the side of the bonnet opening that holds the bonnet stay
Body color.
the catch at the front of the bonnet and the corresponding piece with the
coil spring on the edge of the bonnet opening
Piece that bolts to the bonnet -- black (bolts are zinc plated). Spring --
black (with 1/4" wide red stripe down front of coils). Center pin -- zinc
plated. Wavy piece that bolts to shelf in front of radiator -- zinc plated
(and bolts too). Latch mechanism that goes under this shelf -- all pieces
zinc plated.
the "L" shaped lever that connects the bonnet release rod to the item above
Lever and connecting rod are black.
Roger
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 14:04:16 -0600
Subject: Re: So Al Website
Try this.... hmmm I hate it when I don't have a clue... but I don't...K
http://downtown.ala.net/~kturk/camaro3001.htm
K
----------
> From: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net; spridgets@autox.team.net;
land-speed@autox.team.net; modifiedhealeys@egroups.com
> Subject: So Al Website
> Date: Friday, December 22, 2000 1:26 PM
>
> Guys I built this website and it was my first attempt at one...
> got it done yesterday and immediately messed it up... I just up loaded it
> again and I think it's okay now...
>
> I even upgraded it with a couple of Pictures of the Rodeck D Motor and
the
> Six speed in the shop section...
>
> it's not much to look at but it's a start... you have to go to this
> Address without using the www okay... just copy it here and paste it in
the
> address...
>
> hometown.ala.net/~kturk
>
> it should work just like that...
>
> Merry Christmas everyone
>
> Keith Turk
> Austin Healey 100, Bugeye, Box sprites, Bonneville Camaro ( Land Speed
> Racer)
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 14:20:54 -0600
Subject: RE: BT7 bonnet fittings colour
Roger,
I interpreted the "L-shaped" piece as the small bracket that the bonnet
release rod goes through (has a grommet and the anti-rattle spring hooks in
there). This piece should be body colored as opposed to black, if I
remember correctly.
Sounds like you interpreted the piece as the bellcrank that's attached to
the front cross-brace, which is black.
John, I'm sorry if I confused you with my response if you meant the
bellcrank.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Rmoment@aol.com [mailto:Rmoment@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2000 12:00 PM
To: jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BT7 bonnet fittings colour
In a message dated 12/22/2000 7:24:06 AM Mountain Standard Time,
jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au writes:
<<
Hi All
I am in the process of painting bits and pieces of my BT7 and need some
clarification of paint colours particularly those little pieces around the
bonnet opening.
we have the 2 bonnet catches attached to the bonnet
Body color.
the catch plates attached to the opening on the shroud
Body color.
the piece on the side of the bonnet opening that holds the bonnet stay
Body color.
the catch at the front of the bonnet and the corresponding piece with the
coil spring on the edge of the bonnet opening
Piece that bolts to the bonnet -- black (bolts are zinc plated). Spring --
black (with 1/4" wide red stripe down front of coils). Center pin -- zinc
plated. Wavy piece that bolts to shelf in front of radiator -- zinc plated
(and bolts too). Latch mechanism that goes under this shelf -- all pieces
zinc plated.
the "L" shaped lever that connects the bonnet release rod to the item above
Lever and connecting rod are black.
Roger
From MICHAEL GIROUX <MGIROUX at SGL.COM>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 15:32:17 -0500
Subject: MERRY CHRISTMAS -- SEASONS GREETINGS
Merry CHRISTMAS to all AND have a very good new year.. I have gained
knowledge from this site, thank you one and all. Now I hope to apply some
of it to my ground up restoration !
HOPE EVERY HEALEY GETS AT LEAST 1 GIFT FROM SANTA.
Michael Giroux
62 BT7
From Norman Cay <normcay at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 13:00:09 -0800
Subject: Re: BN1 parts x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Bill, I have an excellent set that I believe is for the early BN-1
(non-adjustable door pins and curved perspex - no flap) I believe these
were for cars prior to body No. 1100. I also have access to a set of the
thin frame type. While I am not going to part with these, I can
characterize them in CAD drawing files for you if you are interested in
fabricating them yourself. Where are you located, I am in the San
Francisco south bay area.
norm,
BN-1, BN-2, MkII 3.8 Jag, TR6R Triumph
ynotink wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> I have a couple of questions to ask concerning
> parts I need to finish my BN1.
>
> Does anyone have or know of a source for the early
> BN1 side curtains (all perspex on thin aluminum
> frames)? I am interested in acquiring a set even
> if it's only the frames. Alternatively if someone
> has pictures or drawings of the frames I might be
> able to fabricate a set.
>
> Does anyone have a set of the early door checks?
> These are the ones with the bar which is almost
> straight. I need one of the bars, two of the
> rubber buffers and two of the door-end mounts.
> These checks will not interchange with the later
> BN1/BN2 parts.
>
> Thanks to everyone for their attention, and have a
> happy holiday.
>
> Bill Lawrence
From "JISah102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 16:25:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Your favorite Healey book
Roger: Having a late BN1 which I have owned for 25 years, I'll buy your new
book. Go for it.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2000 3:00 PM
Subject: Re: Your favorite Healey book
>
> PS --- is there much interest out there in a really detailed book, with
color
> photos, on the 100s, with emphasis on the late BN1. We're talking
> documenting lots of "how it seems to have wnet" stuff through photos taken
> during a careful restoration. Just wondering.
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 17:36:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Your favorite Healey book
Definitely interested, Roger.
Ed A
-----Original Message-----
From: Rmoment@aol.com <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, December 22, 2000 3:03 PM
Subject: Re: Your favorite Healey book
>
>PS --- is there much interest out there in a really detailed book,
with color
>photos, on the 100s, with emphasis on the late BN1. We're talking
>documenting lots of "how it seems to have wnet" stuff through photos
taken
>during a careful restoration. Just wondering.
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 14:43:58 -0800
Subject: Re: Your favorite Healey book
I would even buy a 'future' on such a book. Just say the word.
-Roland
'53BN1 #724
On Fri, 22 Dec 2000 15:00:25 EST, Rmoment@aol.com wrote:
:: PS --- is there much interest out there in a really detailed book, with
:color
:: photos, on the 100s, with emphasis on the late BN1. We're talking
:: documenting lots of "how it seems to have wnet" stuff through photos taken
:: during a careful restoration. Just wondering.
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 14:57:45 -0800
Subject: RE: Your favorite Healey book
> PS --- is there much interest out there in a really detailed
> book, with color
> photos, on the 100s, with emphasis on the late BN1. We're talking
> documenting lots of "how it seems to have wnet" stuff through
> photos taken
> during a careful restoration. Just wondering.
>
Roger,
Yes, do it! Huge interest here. Seems that this would be an interesting
twist on the resent thread that indicated many of our Healey books are
becoming "out of print".
Brad
'55 Hundred
BN1 #226796
From "Thomas Mulligan" <tpmul at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 19:17:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Exhaust
Tom:
My BJ8 has an ANSA system on it. It is starting to
show signs of deterioration (after 7 yrs).
I contacted ANSA directly and they told me they
no longer offer a system for the Healey?!?
Have you found out differently?
Thanks:
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: tom felts <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2000 8:58 AM
Subject: Fw: Exhaust
>
> I'm trying to make up my mind between two types of exhaust systems for my
> BJ8. The ANSA with the beautiful chrome extensions or the stainless steel
> system. ANSA is more expensive.
>
> I want the sweet Healey sound.
>
> Anyone care to comment/compare the two?
>
> Regards
> Tom
From "George Castleberry" <leavcast at infomagic.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 17:16:36 -0700
Subject: Re: New 100 book (was Your favorite Healey book)
I want one.
George
BN1-L/157155
----- Original Message -----
>
> In a message dated 12/21/2000 8:32:11 PM Mountain Standard Time,
> Editorgary@aol.com writes:
>
> Roger
>
> PS --- is there much interest out there in a really detailed book, with
color
> photos, on the 100s, with emphasis on the late BN1. We're talking
> documenting lots of "how it seems to have wnet" stuff through photos taken
> during a careful restoration. Just wondering.
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 16:31:48 -0800
Subject: Re: Fw: Exhaust
Listers:
I have a new SS system on my BJ8. It now sounds great but it took about 4,000
miles to get the nice low rumble. It was really quiet when it first went on.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
BRG w tan interior (it makes Gary cringe)
CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
> Hi Tom,
> I have a stainless steel system on my 100-Six and I put one on my BJ8. Both
> have that great Healey sound.
> Rudy Streng
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 16:39:08 -0800
Subject: Re: Your favorite Healey book
and do it with lots of big color pictures.
we will pay the price for a first-class book.
Ron
Brad Weldon wrote:
> > PS --- is there much interest out there in a really detailed
> > book, with color
> > photos, on the 100s, with emphasis on the late BN1. We're talking
> > documenting lots of "how it seems to have wnet" stuff through
> > photos taken
> > during a careful restoration. Just wondering.
> >
>
> Roger,
>
> Yes, do it! Huge interest here. Seems that this would be an interesting
> twist on the resent thread that indicated many of our Healey books are
> becoming "out of print".
>
> Brad
> '55 Hundred
> BN1 #226796
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 17:39:59 +0000
Subject: New 100 book
Put me down for a copy.
Ron.
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 18:41:31 -0600
Subject: Re: Hot Wheels Healeys
David Masucci wrote:
> I'm thinking of taking a hot knife to that stupid thing that's sticking out
> of the hood, and then filling the hole with some bondo. I quick respray and
> maybe it'll actually look more like what it was supposed to. We'll
> see....I'd have to find the time of course.
The next thing you know, you'll have the whole thing is a gazillon pieces and
waiting for parts from England. You've heard the story about the guys (myself
included!) that started out replacing the carpet and while the carpet was out
they decided that the door trim needed a little work, etc., etc., etc.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 20:30:33 -0500
Subject: Fw: Grey Interiors on BJ8s
Hi, Gary -
>From the BJ8 registry data, out of 3,700 cars (colors not known for all of
them, unfortunately), the following are the only ones identified as having
grey/gray interior:
HBJ8L/25424: maroon exterior, light gray interior
HBJ8L/34286: Colorado Red, grey interior, grey top
HBJ8L/37466: Black, grey interior
HBJ8L/37608: Black/silver, gray interior
HBJ8L/38111: (originally: Ivory white, black interior; now: Healey Blue,
Swedish gray elmo leather)
I know you are really only interested in cars with original grey interior.
HBJ8L/34286 is a concours gold level car, I believe. I have actually seen
that car, but I can't say now whether the upholstery is of the original
pattern with the squares or not. I don't have a copy of the BMIHT
certificate for it, either, so I can't say if the grey interior was original
to the car. If you are interested in pursuing this with the owner, I have
his mailing address and can write to him to put you in touch. If you have a
concours registry, perhaps you already have the owner's name and address.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 20:51:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Hot Wheels Healeys
Larry's right....anyone know where I can get some 72 spoke chrome wires for
my Hot Wheel Healey?
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Dickstein <bugide@solve.net>
To: David Masucci <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2000 7:41 PM
Subject: Re: Hot Wheels Healeys
>
> David Masucci wrote:
>
> > I'm thinking of taking a hot knife to that stupid thing that's sticking
out
> > of the hood, and then filling the hole with some bondo. I quick respray
and
> > maybe it'll actually look more like what it was supposed to. We'll
> > see....I'd have to find the time of course.
>
> The next thing you know, you'll have the whole thing is a gazillon pieces
and
> waiting for parts from England. You've heard the story about the guys
(myself
> included!) that started out replacing the carpet and while the carpet was
out
> they decided that the door trim needed a little work, etc., etc., etc.
>
> --
> Larry Dickstein
> Lone Jack, MO
>
> Pop. 420
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 18:42:16 -0800
Subject: FW: search first owner
Healey listers:
Can anyone help out this healey owner trace some history on his car?
Reply directly to him, thanks!
Brad Weldon
webmaster, AHCUSA
http://healey.org/
-----Original Message-----
From: Familie Straatman [mailto:j.p.mstraatman@freeler.nl]
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2000 2:10 PM
To: webmaster@healey.org
Subject: search first owner
Hello healey loving people,
I am not sure to whome this message is going, but perhaps you can help me to
find the first and second onwner of my golden beige AH 3000 Mk III, licenced
2NWN758. This car is imported in 1967 in California and sold to mister
Rooney John P. Do you know where I can trace him? Thanking you in advance, I
remain, Rob Straatman.
From Robert Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 21:43:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Hot Wheels Healeys
I had some, but one of the wheels had one bent spoke. I was told that
replacing the spoke would render them non-original and therefore worthless. So
I put them on e-bay about three months ago. Life's tough, ain't it?
David Masucci wrote:
> Larry's right....anyone know where I can get some 72 spoke chrome wires for
> my Hot Wheel Healey?
>
> Dave
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 23:01:12 EST
Subject: Re: BT7 bonnet fittings colour
In a message dated 12/22/2000 1:21:31 PM Mountain Standard Time,
Adnan.Merchant@MKG.com writes:
<< Roger,
I interpreted the "L-shaped" piece as the small bracket that the bonnet
release rod goes through (has a grommet and the anti-rattle spring hooks in
there). This piece should be body colored as opposed to black, if I
remember correctly.
Yes, you are correct.
Sounds like you interpreted the piece as the bellcrank that's attached to
the front cross-brace, which is black. >>
Yes, that is what I was thinking of.
Roger
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 12:50:49 +0000
Subject: Happy Christmas
Dear Listers,
Many thanks for all the help etc over the past few months and very best wishes
for Christmas and the New Year and may all those Healey-shaped dreams come true
;-)
Peter Dzwig
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 13:15:10 -0000
Subject: Seasonal Greetings
Hi,
Thanks to all that helped or still are helping me with my car
over the past 12 months.
Happy Christmas to all or, as some of seem to say(!), Have a
Happy Holiday.
Simon.
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 07:47:40 -0600
Subject: Re: Hot Wheels Healeys
i would think a set of offset mag wheels wth small wide tires protruding about
18" would be more appropriate.
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Denton <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: David Masucci <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>
Subject: Hot Wheels Healeys
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2000 21:43:29 -0500
I had some, but one of the wheels had one bent spoke. I was told that
replacing the spoke would render them non-original and therefore worthless. So
I put them on e-bay about three months ago. Life's tough, ain't it?
David Masucci wrote:
> Larry's right....anyone know where I can get some 72 spoke chrome wires for
> my Hot Wheel Healey?
>
> Dave
From Bruce Steele <bsteele2 at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 06:39:20 -0800
Subject: Ammeter or voltmeter?
I am considering adding an ammeter or voltmeter to my BN7, and
therefore interested in the wisdom and experience of any of you who
have added same to his/her car. My questions:
1. Comments on which type of guage to use, if availability allows a
choice.
2. Source(s) or availability for a Smiths guage, or similiar, which
would match or compliment the 3000 guages
3. Proper wiring for which ever type (mine is neg ground)
4. Any other relevant words of wisdom
Thanks.
Bruce
bsteele2@pacbell.net
From JPierce <jpierce at mstar2.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 09:07:19 -0700
Subject: Re: So Al Website
Doesn't work............
Keith Turk wrote:
> Guys I built this website and it was my first attempt at one...
> got it done yesterday and immediately messed it up... I just up loaded it
> again and I think it's okay now...
>
> I even upgraded it with a couple of Pictures of the Rodeck D Motor and the
> Six speed in the shop section...
>
> it's not much to look at but it's a start... you have to go to this
> Address without using the www okay... just copy it here and paste it in the
> address...
>
> hometown.ala.net/~kturk
>
> it should work just like that...
>
> Merry Christmas everyone
>
> Keith Turk
> Austin Healey 100, Bugeye, Box sprites, Bonneville Camaro ( Land Speed
> Racer)
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 11:27:46 EST
Subject: Re: Ammeter or voltmeter?
<< I am considering adding an ammeter or voltmeter to my BN7, and
therefore interested in the wisdom and experience of any of you who
have added same to his/her car. My questions:
1. Comments on which type of guage to use, if availability allows a
choice.
2. Source(s) or availability for a Smiths guage, or similiar, which
would match or compliment the 3000 guages
3. Proper wiring for which ever type (mine is neg ground)
4. Any other relevant words of wisdom
Thanks.
>>
Bruce--
When I bought my BN1 it had stock instrumentation. I learned that ammeters
were originally available as factory options and located a period Smith's
pedulum -type guage which installed nicely on the passenger side of the dash.
I found myself paying a lot of attention to the guage, esp. when it showed
that I was running in or near a discharge situation at night and/or when
wipers and heater were on! I kept wondering what my voltage was, thus
leading to the purchase of a small, inconspicuous non-original votmeter which
installed under the parcel shelf. Now I had two things to pay attention to
aside from the road (No, I don't use a cell-phone when underway....)
Finally, I pulled my generator and had it rebuilt and replaced the voltage
regulator. Things are alot better now, but I guess that I became a victim
of the information age: Before I added the guages I had no problems and the
car never failed to start. After their acquisition I probably knew alot more
than I needed and worried accordingly....
Think the whole thing through.
Best Regards--Michael Oritt, BN1
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 11:52:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Ammeter or voltmeter?
Many opinions on this one in the past. I prefer a voltmeter (no
heavy wiring) - and digital (one decimal point accuracy gives you
much more useful diagnostics and long term batt condition
monitoring compared to an analogue vmeter)
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Steele <bsteele2@pacbell.net>
To: Healey Mail Group <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: December 23, 2000 9:39 AM
Subject: Ammeter or voltmeter?
>
> I am considering adding an ammeter or voltmeter to my BN7, and
> therefore interested in the wisdom and experience of any of you
who
> have added same to his/her car. My questions:
>
> 1. Comments on which type of guage to use, if availability
allows a
> choice.
> 2. Source(s) or availability for a Smiths guage, or similiar,
which
> would match or compliment the 3000 guages
> 3. Proper wiring for which ever type (mine is neg ground)
> 4. Any other relevant words of wisdom
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bruce
> bsteele2@pacbell.net
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 09:24:58 -0800
Subject: Re: search first owner
According to, smartpages.com
There are five John Rooney's in CA and
one John P. Rooney in Palo Alto CA.
Kirk Kvam
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 09:38:14 -0800
Subject: BN6 shifting question.
Hello Listers,
This is my first posting.
I just bought a 59 BN6. When I drove it, it was hard to find first gear in
the shift pattern. I had a tendency to go past it towards reverse or it felt
like I was trying to push the lever against a solid wall where first should
be. Most gearboxes I'm familiar with (mostly Alfa 5-speeds) would go into
first more naturally than this. The trans was noise-free and in all other
respects seemed fine. The dealer said it had been recently rebuilt. The gear
shifting was not noticeably stiff, but the shifter springs seemed kind of
mushy compared to the Alfas.
The guy from the dealer seemed to have no trouble and said it was a matter
of getting used to.
Does this indicate a problem with first gear?
--
Steve Gerow
59 BN6
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 11:54:12 -0600
Subject: Re: So Al Website
It does work
JPierce wrote:
> Doesn't work............
>
> Keith Turk wrote:
>
> > Guys I built this website and it was my first attempt at one...
> > got it done yesterday and immediately messed it up... I just up loaded it
> > again and I think it's okay now...
> >
> > I even upgraded it with a couple of Pictures of the Rodeck D Motor and the
> > Six speed in the shop section...
> >
> > it's not much to look at but it's a start... you have to go to this
> > Address without using the www okay... just copy it here and paste it in the
> > address...
> >
> > hometown.ala.net/~kturk
> >
> > it should work just like that...
> >
> > Merry Christmas everyone
> >
> > Keith Turk
> > Austin Healey 100, Bugeye, Box sprites, Bonneville Camaro ( Land Speed
> > Racer)
From "Dave BOWERS" <BOWERSDA at uvsc.edu>
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 11:12:54 -0700
Subject: Re: New 100 book
I'd take one too, especially if it included the BN2 mods.
Dave B^)
56 BN2
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 13:04:41 -0600
Subject: Re: Hot Wheels Healeys
I was hoping to find some one who could remove the supercharger and louver my
hood LeMans style..........................HoHoHoYo
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 13:01:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Ammeter or voltmeter?
Original style ammeters and voltmeters can be purchased from Gower Oaks in
the UK. Here is their website:
http://www.gower-oaks.co.uk/
I use a voltmeter in my BJ8 but I have an alternator installed in place of
the generator.
Hope this helps.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From RandallC2 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 14:11:16 EST
Subject: Re: So Al Website
Both aol and Internet Explorer say no such address. Is there a trick?
Randy Hicks
BN2
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 13:23:11 -0600
Subject: Re: So Al Website
Here use this address.... sometimes it helps when the computer illiterate
guy gives you the right address... hmmm
http://downtown.ala.net/~kturk/camaro3001.htm
K
----- Original Message -----
From: <RandallC2@aol.com>
To: <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>; <jpierce@mstar2.net>
Cc: <kturk@ala.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>; <spridgets@autox.team.net>;
<land-speed@autox.team.net>; <modifiedhealeys@egroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2000 1:11 PM
Subject: Re: So Al Website
>
> Both aol and Internet Explorer say no such address. Is there a trick?
>
> Randy Hicks
> BN2
From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 14:24:39 EST
Subject: 100/6 grille question
Hi All, Merry Christmas. I am making some progress on my BN6, but have run
into a problem that someone may be able to help with. I am installing the
grille and associated parts and find that the new Radiator Air Deflector that
I installed (against my better judgment)! fouls the steering arm from the
steering box and the cross rod ends approaching full lock either way. I have
what I believe to be the correct air deflector; Moss pt# 806-330 for the BN6,
BN4, early BN7. I notice the later BN7, BT7, etc., have a different part #. I
have owned several Big Healeys over the years and none of them ever had this
deflector/shroud in place. What have others done to make this thing fit? I
guess I could get out the tin snips or just throw the thing in the can, but I
can see the benefit and would like to keep it installed. Any help is greatly
appreciated.
Cheers and Happy Holidays,
John Wright
BN1
BN6
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 13:26:27 -0600
Subject: Re: So Al Website
Works for me, guys!?!?! from IE and aol.
http://downtown.ala.net/~kturk/camaro3001.htm
Merry Christmas!!
Ed
PS: Please note change!!
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 14:58:03 -0500
Subject: Re: BN6 shifting question.
Steve,
The best way to engage first on a Healey is to go into second gear (or any
gear other than reverse) initially and then go into first. This will stop
any internal freewheeling in the gearbox, which makes the un-synchronized
first gear easier to select. In this respect it is "a matter of getting
used to." If engaging another gear before going into first doesn't work,
then you may have a hydraulic problem (throwout bearing not moving far
enough, for whatever reason) or a clutch mechanical problem (TO bearing
perished, bad pressure plate, etc.)
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2000 12:38 PM
Subject: BN6 shifting question.
>
> Hello Listers,
> This is my first posting.
>
> I just bought a 59 BN6. When I drove it, it was hard to find first gear in
> the shift pattern. I had a tendency to go past it towards reverse or it
felt
> like I was trying to push the lever against a solid wall where first
should
> be. Most gearboxes I'm familiar with (mostly Alfa 5-speeds) would go into
> first more naturally than this. The trans was noise-free and in all other
> respects seemed fine. The dealer said it had been recently rebuilt. The
gear
> shifting was not noticeably stiff, but the shifter springs seemed kind of
> mushy compared to the Alfas.
>
> The guy from the dealer seemed to have no trouble and said it was a matter
> of getting used to.
>
> Does this indicate a problem with first gear?
> --
> Steve Gerow
> 59 BN6
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 15:03:42 EST
Subject: seasons greetings to all my LBC list friends!
Seasons greetings to all!!
I hope if Santa visits you he leaves you all some cool British Car stuff!
My wife already gave me a Bugeye cookie jar, it's really cool.
I hope to finish mounting and aligning the Healey's body panels over winter
in preperation for painting in spring, (then I'll be an interior and chrome
away from being finished)!!!!
The TR7 was repainted in '00, and in the spring I should replace the clutch
if time allows. Also, I'm hoping to get the carbs off and exorcise the evil
FASD!, either make it work or chuck it.
I'd also like to get the Isetta back running this year, it's been neglected
lately.
I am also making plans to put up a new storage shed/ workshop in '01, should
be a busy year.
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!)
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.
From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 11:56:42 -0800
Subject: Re: So Al Website
It works!
----------
>From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
>To: <RandallC2@aol.com>, <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>, <jpierce@mstar2.net>
>Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>, <spridgets@autox.team.net>,
<land-speed@autox.team.net>, <modifiedhealeys@egroups.com>
>Subject: Re: So Al Website
>Date: Sat, Dec 23, 2000, 11:23 AM
>
>
> Here use this address.... sometimes it helps when the computer illiterate
> guy gives you the right address... hmmm
>
> http://downtown.ala.net/~kturk/camaro3001.htm
>
> K
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <RandallC2@aol.com>
> To: <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>; <jpierce@mstar2.net>
> Cc: <kturk@ala.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>; <spridgets@autox.team.net>;
> <land-speed@autox.team.net>; <modifiedhealeys@egroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2000 1:11 PM
> Subject: Re: So Al Website
>
>
>>
>> Both aol and Internet Explorer say no such address. Is there a trick?
>>
>> Randy Hicks
>> BN2
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 15:31:21 -0500
Subject: Re: BN6 shifting question.
Hi Steve,
There are some things about the 1st gear in your BN6 that you probably should
know although you may not like what you hear.
The normal text book minimum number of teeth for acceptable wear is 15 or 16.The
straight cut gear on the layshaft (countershaft) in your gearbox has only 13
teeth. This means that the teeth on the laygear wear very quickly then subjected
to even normal operating loads because of the large amount of rubbing contact
when in use.
I understand that the theory, when these cars were designed, was that there
would be relatively little need for frequent use of 1st gear. This is of course
taking into consideration the touring nature of the car and the much lower
traffic volumes of the day. Consequently the box, in the interests of cost and
space was designed with a non syncronized 1st gear, as were most British cars of
the day.
The problem, as I see it is that today's drivers have become accustomed to
starting off in 1st gear and doing so frequently. When you have mastered the
skill of engaging a non syncro gear as you come to a stop this is not too much
of a problem, however if you misjudge the shift the noises eminating from the
gearbox are an indication that damage is occuring. The worst part of this damage
is the very small chips of hardened steel which are removed from the teeth of
1st gear and then travel around in the gearbox. Their effect on the roller
bearings of the layshaft is well known to those experinaced in healey gearbox
rebuilding.
My recommendation woulld be to develop the habit of GENTLY starting off in 2nd
gear unless you are starting up a hill. You will find that the car will start
off very easily and, if you resist using anything but the lightest throttle
application until such time as the clutch pedal is fully released, you will find
that the car is easier and more plesant to drive.
Happy Holidays.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Steve Gerow wrote:
> Hello Listers,
> This is my first posting.
>
> I just bought a 59 BN6. When I drove it, it was hard to find first gear in
> the shift pattern. I had a tendency to go past it towards reverse or it felt
> like I was trying to push the lever against a solid wall where first should
> be. Most gearboxes I'm familiar with (mostly Alfa 5-speeds) would go into
> first more naturally than this. The trans was noise-free and in all other
> respects seemed fine. The dealer said it had been recently rebuilt. The gear
> shifting was not noticeably stiff, but the shifter springs seemed kind of
> mushy compared to the Alfas.
>
> The guy from the dealer seemed to have no trouble and said it was a matter
> of getting used to.
>
> Does this indicate a problem with first gear?
> --
> Steve Gerow
> 59 BN6
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 12:20:36 -0800
Subject: Re: So Al Website
Works fine...looks good Keith...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: "JPierce" <jpierce@mstar2.net>
Cc: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>;
<spridgets@autox.team.net>; <land-speed@autox.team.net>;
<modifiedhealeys@egroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2000 9:54 AM
Subject: Re: So Al Website
>
> It does work
>
>
> JPierce wrote:
>
> > Doesn't work............
> >
> > Keith Turk wrote:
> >
> > > Guys I built this website and it was my first attempt at one...
> > > got it done yesterday and immediately messed it up... I just up loaded
it
> > > again and I think it's okay now...
> > >
> > > I even upgraded it with a couple of Pictures of the Rodeck D Motor and
the
> > > Six speed in the shop section...
> > >
> > > it's not much to look at but it's a start... you have to go to this
> > > Address without using the www okay... just copy it here and paste it
in the
> > > address...
> > >
> > > hometown.ala.net/~kturk
> > >
> > > it should work just like that...
> > >
> > > Merry Christmas everyone
> > >
> > > Keith Turk
> > > Austin Healey 100, Bugeye, Box sprites, Bonneville Camaro ( Land Speed
> > > Racer)
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 15:56:19 -0500
Subject: New 100 Book
Roger,
Took my 100 to England and was very fortunate to spend a day with Roger
Menadue at his home in Longbridge. I believe that Roger has special
feelings for the 100 as it was the car truly created by the Healey Company
with out any outside constraints. I am sure that he would correspond with
some great stories for your book. I have a few letters in which he
outlines some of the problems and success. I will share. Yes, I will
purchase more than one.
Best Regards,
Joe
55 100
60 3000
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 15:43:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Ammeter or voltmeter?
The people at Gower Oaks are very pleasant to work with. They don't
have every Healey version of the gauge faces, only the ones that match
the BJ8 -- white on black. Other that that, if it is a Smiths gauge
you can get one from them. If you get a temp/oil pressure gauge be
sure to mike the diameter of the temp bulb and/or the diameter of the
orifice into the cylinder head. There would appear to have been a
couple of different sizes of these bulbs, both with the same size
threaded fittings into the head or radiator.
-Roland
BJ7 with a new Smiths temp/oil pressure gauge from Gower Oaks.
On Sat, 23 Dec 2000 13:01:18 -0600, "Richard J. Hockert, Esq."
<rjh.co@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
::
:: Original style ammeters and voltmeters can be purchased from Gower Oaks in
:: the UK. Here is their website:
::
:: http://www.gower-oaks.co.uk/
::
::
:: I use a voltmeter in my BJ8 but I have an alternator installed in place of
:: the generator.
::
:: Hope this helps.
:: Best regards.
:: Jim Hockert
:: BJ8 Rallye
:: Dallas, TX
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 19:18:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Hot Wheels Healeys
Howard...the hood IS louvered...look close! It just has a big hole in the
middle.
Dave
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: Robert Denton <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
Cc: David Masucci <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2000 2:04 PM
Subject: Re: Hot Wheels Healeys
>
> I was hoping to find some one who could remove the supercharger and louver
my
> hood LeMans style..........................HoHoHoYo
>
> Robert Denton wrote:
>
> > I had some, but one of the wheels had one bent spoke. I was told that
> > replacing the spoke would render them non-original and therefore
worthless. So
> > I put them on e-bay about three months ago. Life's tough, ain't it?
> >
> > David Masucci wrote:
> >
> > > Larry's right....anyone know where I can get some 72 spoke chrome
wires for
> > > my Hot Wheel Healey?
> > >
> > > Dave
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Larry Dickstein <bugide@solve.net>
> > > To: David Masucci <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>
> > > Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Friday, December 22, 2000 7:41 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Hot Wheels Healeys
> > >
> > > >
> > > > David Masucci wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > I'm thinking of taking a hot knife to that stupid thing that's
sticking
> > > out
> > > > > of the hood, and then filling the hole with some bondo. I quick
respray
> > > and
> > > > > maybe it'll actually look more like what it was supposed to. We'll
> > > > > see....I'd have to find the time of course.
> > > >
> > > > The next thing you know, you'll have the whole thing is a gazillon
pieces
> > > and
> > > > waiting for parts from England. You've heard the story about the
guys
> > > (myself
> > > > included!) that started out replacing the carpet and while the
carpet was
> > > out
> > > > they decided that the door trim needed a little work, etc., etc.,
etc.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Larry Dickstein
> > > > Lone Jack, MO
> > > >
> > > > Pop. 420
From SIGDACMUNSTER at aol.com
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 19:32:05 EST
Subject: no healey content (merry christmas)
just a quick note to say thanks to all who responded
to my first year questions you were all a big help
have a very Merry Christmas,happy holidays,happy New Year
Rick Sigmen and family
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 24 Dec 2000 12:37:25 -0500
Subject: Re: BN6 shifting question.
Steve wrote:
> I just bought a 59 BN6. When I drove it, it was hard to find first gear in
> the shift pattern. I had a tendency to go past it towards reverse or it
felt
> like I was trying to push the lever against a solid wall where first
should
> be. Most gearboxes I'm familiar with (mostly Alfa 5-speeds) would go into
> first more naturally than this. The trans was noise-free and in all other
> respects seemed fine. The dealer said it had been recently rebuilt. The
gear
> shifting was not noticeably stiff, but the shifter springs seemed kind of
> mushy compared to the Alfas.
>
> The guy from the dealer seemed to have no trouble and said it was a matter
> of getting used to.
>
> Does this indicate a problem with first gear?
> --
> Steve Gerow
> 59 BN6
The gearbox has a non syncro 1st gear, which is to say that 1st gear is a
straight cut spur gear. If the gears aren't lined up, it won't go into 1st.
especially if it's recently rebuilt, and the wear and play have been reduced
or eliminated.
Before going into 1st gear, try touching 2nd gear synchro, and then slipping
straight up into 1st. Another trick is to just nudge 2nd or reverse to move
the gears slightly, and then it will go right into 1st.
Sounds more complicated than it is, and you will soon get used to it.
Rich Chrysler
From "McNamara" <mcnamara at wcnet.org>
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 17:08:23 -0500
Subject: Looking for 100-4 project
Hello all,
I am looking for a project 100-4. Would like to find a solid car to
restore. Prefer located in Ohio, Michigan or Indiana but, would look
anywhere in the US. Please e-mail off list if you can help.
Thanks
dan
mcnamara@wcnet.org
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 11:27:51 EST
Subject: Re: BN6 shifting question.
Steve , The Healey gear box is a non syncro first box and I recomend to my
customers to always put it into second gear then into first. When you do this
you are using the syncro on second gear to stop the gears frome moving making
it easier to get into first. The other problem is if the reverse lock out
sticks, which is very common then when you are going into first or second you
will end up partialy in reverse also causing the problem. The other common
one is that the gears just will not line up and if you put it in any gear and
move the car a little it will then go into first.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Dec 2000 08:44:45 -0500
Subject: Test please delete
Test, test...
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Dec 2000 10:13:49 -0800
Subject: test
test
From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 18:33:53 EST
Subject: air deflector/100-6 grill
<< Re: my air deflector grille assembly problem; Can someone describe the
difference between the 2 styles for me? Also, my problems with this probably
relate to the fact that I have disc brakes on this 100/6.
Cheers and
thanks,
John Wright
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 14:56:03 -0800
Subject: Is hopup possible for street BN6
Hello Listers,
I was just curious about the following re my BN6
1) Is hopup possible or even worthwhile and still have a streetable car?
Cam, better manifold, 3 carbs, Webers, headers, etc. Seems like 124 hp or so
is pretty tame for a 2600 cc engine.
My wife has a 240z and which has more elegant manifolds for its 2 SUs and I
wondered if any such thing is available for the Healey. The Healey intake
looks like it was designed by a plumber.
Or maybe the engine is too fast for the drum brakes anyway. Don't want to
replace them with disks because of the need to add a booster to ease the
pedal pressure--that would require too much non-standard modification of the
engine compartment. Besides they look so retro '50s.
2) If so, where to get the information.
BTW--thank you to all of you for your generous information on my shifting
"problem" issue.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Mon, 25 Dec 2000 11:21:02 +0800
Subject: Thanks
Hi All
Thanks to the list for all the advice offerred during my rebuild. It should
be finished by Easter.
Seasons Greetings to you all and have a safe holiday.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in restoration
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 15:01:56 -0800
Subject: is the list down?
or is it only down for me?
ron
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
rader.vcf]
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Sun, 24 Dec 2000 20:28:40 +0100
Subject: Fw: Hot Wheels Healeys
LOL. Great all that sense of humour ! That's what I like reading on
the
list. (Beside all the knowledge)
Merry Christmas all !
Martin
Germany
Subject: Re: Hot Wheels Healeys
> i would think a set of offset mag wheels wth small wide tires
protruding about 18" would be more appropriate.
> I had some, but one of the wheels had one bent spoke. I was told
that
> replacing the spoke would render them non-original and therefore
worthless. So
> I put them on e-bay about three months ago. Life's tough, ain't it?
>
> > Larry's right....anyone know where I can get some 72 spoke chrome
wires for
> > my Hot Wheel Healey?
> >
> > > > I'm thinking of taking a hot knife to that stupid thing that's
sticking
> > out
> > > > of the hood, and then filling the hole with some bondo. I
quick respray
> > and
> > > > maybe it'll actually look more like what it was supposed to.
We'll
> > > > see....I'd have to find the time of course.
> > >
> > > The next thing you know, you'll have the whole thing is a
gazillon pieces
> > and
> > > waiting for parts from England. You've heard the story about
the guys
> > (myself
> > > included!) that started out replacing the carpet and while the
carpet was
> > out
> > > they decided that the door trim needed a little work, etc.,
etc., etc.
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2000 22:22:26 -0800
Subject: Re: Ammeter or voltmeter?
Bruce: I have a catalog of Smiths Instruments that I obtained from XKs
Unlimited, 850 Fiero Lane, San Luis Obisbo, CA, 93401, phone 800-444-5247,
fax 805-544-7864, email xksunltd@aol.com, web site www.xks.com. I have both
Smiths ammeter and voltmeter on my BJ8. They are virtually identical to my
original instruments. The ammeters come etiher 30-0-30 or 60-0-60 and the
voltmeter is 10-15 volts. Both available with either chrome or black rim.
Not knowing what the BT7 gauges look like, I can not tell if XKs Unlimited
has what you want. I do refer to both of the gauges to keep an eye on what
my electrical system is doing. Wiring should be straight forward especially
since you have negative ground. If the needles go the wrong way, reverse
the connections.
Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Steele" <bsteele2@pacbell.net>
To: "Healey Mail Group" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2000 6:39 AM
Subject: Ammeter or voltmeter?
>
> I am considering adding an ammeter or voltmeter to my BN7, and
> therefore interested in the wisdom and experience of any of you who
> have added same to his/her car. My questions:
>
> 1. Comments on which type of guage to use, if availability allows a
> choice.
> 2. Source(s) or availability for a Smiths guage, or similiar, which
> would match or compliment the 3000 guages
> 3. Proper wiring for which ever type (mine is neg ground)
> 4. Any other relevant words of wisdom
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bruce
> bsteele2@pacbell.net
From "Thomas Mulligan" <tpmul at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 17:48:15 -0500
Subject: test - no content
From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 10:34:23 EST
Subject: test only-delete
test only--
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 23:19:46 EST
Subject: Re: Reno Red
Listers
I'm looking for a paint cross reference for BN2 Reno red. The factory code is
RD14, ICI code is 3000. The local choices are PPG, Martin Senior and Sherman
Williams. Of the three PPG would be my first choice. Any have a mix formula?
Thanks
Aloha
Perry
From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Dec 2000 17:26:34 -0500
Subject: Re: BN6 shifting question.
Steve,dont think so. Had the same suitation with my bn6 when I first got. As a
result of a tip from this list when you bring the shifter though neutral go into
2nd than it will just slide into 1st with a little push. Going into first
without doing this requires a fair amount of pressure that I dont like to put on
my old rebuilt tranny.
By the way when was your car built. Mine was in Jan of 59.
Bill Pollock
Steve Gerow wrote:
> Hello Listers,
> This is my first posting.
>
> I just bought a 59 BN6. When I drove it, it was hard to find first gear in
> the shift pattern. I had a tendency to go past it towards reverse or it felt
> like I was trying to push the lever against a solid wall where first should
> be. Most gearboxes I'm familiar with (mostly Alfa 5-speeds) would go into
> first more naturally than this. The trans was noise-free and in all other
> respects seemed fine. The dealer said it had been recently rebuilt. The gear
> shifting was not noticeably stiff, but the shifter springs seemed kind of
> mushy compared to the Alfas.
>
> The guy from the dealer seemed to have no trouble and said it was a matter
> of getting used to.
>
> Does this indicate a problem with first gear?
> --
> Steve Gerow
> 59 BN6
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Dec 2000 16:52:35 -0600
Subject: Re: Grey Interiors on BJ8s
Hi Steve and Gary,
Just a quick note to let you know I got a call on this just the other
day. The car is/was Florida green, however, not BRG. It is a phase one BJ8
with gray interior complete with the 'chrome' piping, the small embossed
squares on the pleated portion of the seats, and the large embossed squares
on the rear panels and backrest. It sounds like it is identical in
specification to any other Ambla (not leather) BJ8 interior. I will see if
some pictures can be taken and posted. Hope this helps.
Peter (BMC Restorations)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2000 7:30 PM
Subject: Fw: Grey Interiors on BJ8s
>
> Hi, Gary -
>
> From the BJ8 registry data, out of 3,700 cars (colors not known for all of
> them, unfortunately), the following are the only ones identified as having
> grey/gray interior:
>
> HBJ8L/25424: maroon exterior, light gray interior
> HBJ8L/34286: Colorado Red, grey interior, grey top
> HBJ8L/37466: Black, grey interior
> HBJ8L/37608: Black/silver, gray interior
> HBJ8L/38111: (originally: Ivory white, black interior; now: Healey
Blue,
> Swedish gray elmo leather)
>
> I know you are really only interested in cars with original grey interior.
> HBJ8L/34286 is a concours gold level car, I believe. I have actually seen
> that car, but I can't say now whether the upholstery is of the original
> pattern with the squares or not. I don't have a copy of the BMIHT
> certificate for it, either, so I can't say if the grey interior was
original
> to the car. If you are interested in pursuing this with the owner, I have
> his mailing address and can write to him to put you in touch. If you have
a
> concours registry, perhaps you already have the owner's name and address.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
> >To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Date: Friday, December 22, 2000 12:27 PM
> >Subject: Grey Interiors on BJ8s
> >
> >
> >>
> >>A friend who is restoring a BRG BJ8 was considering finishing it with a
> >>saddle tan interior (a la XK150s). Cringing in shock, I've tried to
talk
> >him
> >>out of it, since Healeys NEVER were built with tan interiors. Never.
> >>
> >>I suggested he consider a grey interior, with green piping and carpets,
> >which
> >>we know was used in Healeys from the 100-Sixes through the BJ7s on the
> >>Florida green and pacific green cars. (for those who aren't familiar,
the
> >>color is actually a parchment beige.) We also know that the dealer
color
> >>chip brochure for the BJ8s showed that the "grey" interior was available
> >for
> >>red cars and florida green cars (until the florida green was phased out
> and
> >>replaced by the golden beige.
> >>
> >>Question: Has anyone ever seen a BJ8 with a grey interior, either on
red
> >or
> >>green cars? If so, we'd like to get some basic information: did it have
> >>contrasting piping? Did it have the pressed-in squares on the seats? Did
> it
> >>have the quilted pattern in the tonneau area?
> >>
> >>Any help would be appreciated.
> >>
> >>Gary Anderson
> >>Chairman, AH Concours Registry
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 13:22:26 EST
Subject: TEST
Is anyone out there?
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 23:58:09 +0000
Subject: New 100 Book
Put me down for one.
Ron. BN1
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Dec 2000 10:19:06 -0800
Subject: Merry Christmas....
I seem to be living in my own little space....not realizing that it's
already Christmas morning in other parts of the world. I guess I should
pratice being a little more global, sorry. Merry Christmas to all, the
Trelenbergs'....Vancouver B.C. Canada
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 08:26:03 -0000
Subject: FW: Mk1 3000s Mk 1s Police Cars.
I was interested by an article in Roadster which I read the other
day. I shall reproduce some of it below. The area described is
where I live. ie the Police Station in question is 2 miles from
my house. (Devon, South west UK. Very rural area). This part of
Devon now has a large Motorway (Freeway to you'all!?), but in 61
that had not reached Devon. Nor would it for years. But, the West
of UK was and remains very popular with British holiday makers
who used to make best speed through central Devon on the A38 to
and from the North and South Devon and Cornwall coasts. Local
police forces used to employ "Chase cars" to help control things.
Mind you, I'm not sure if the 70mph max was in by then. Probably.
I don't know if this has been on the net before. If so-apologies.
I have barely touched the text. Some of it is a bit too "local
interest" to make much sense to you and you have to remember
that,
despite everything, the author was a young policeman-not a Works
mechanic...so forgive him for the mechanical fuel pump etc...
Article is headed with a photo of a Mk1 and goes on:_
"of one of the two Austin Healey 3000s operated by the Devon
Constabulary from about 1961/2 on. I was fortunate enough to be
part of the two-man crew at Cullompton, in 118HTT whilst the
other, 117HTT was at Exmouth. These cars were supplied by Pikes
of Exeter,the main Austin dealers and if my memory is correct,
they were the first thousand pound patrol cars after the Jaguar.
In those days the force carried a wide selection of vehicles with
little thought of the benefits of having a fleet of the same
manufacture. Apart from the two Healeys, there were Standard
Vanguards, a Riley Pathfinder, Ford Zephyrs, Vauxhalls, Bedford
Vans (or Flying Greenhouses as they were known), a Jaguar, an
Austin Mini Cooper and Austin A70s, A90s and A95s. As a two-man
team, we were expected to care for our vehicles and of course we
cherished them, looking after them with a sort of loving care.
Servicing was done at Exeter H.Q. under the Chief Mechanic,
Albert (can't think of his surname) and when we took the cars in,
we were expected to don overalls and assist in the servicing by
draining oil, removing and cleaning plugs and so on. We were
allocated 4 hours a week-normally Sunday mornings-to clean and
attend our car.
The Healey was a superb vehicle to drive, described as an
occasional 4 seater; in fact, the rear seats were hardly usable
as seats and had to carry our books ( and flasks of coffee etc)
so were hardly sat in. Taking prisoners proved to be a problem
especially the approved shool abscondees etc. On one occasion we
caught two, so one sat between us and theo ther on the lap of the
observer! Police markings were not possible owing to the fine
nature of the vehicle front although for some time we carried a
chrome bell as the only token of our identity as a police car.
The Healeys were fitted with a removable hard top, a folding soft
top and also a tonneau cover. We were very fortunate when in the
summer periods we were able to drive about open topped with our
chin straps down to keep our headgear on. Driving without caps
was most certainly not permitted. Being black, we were often able
to spot traffic offences which would have been avoided owing to
the presence of a properly marked police car, and we have even
been overtaken by coaches/lorries against double yellow lines.
Speeds of well over a ton were possible on the Waterloo Straight
near Willand and on the Rockbeare Straight- about the only roads
providing the opportunity in those days. We were often allocated
special jobs, such as following Eastern Bloc diplomats-as they
often took great amusen=ment by trying to lose their "tails".
They knew we were there and we knew that they knew- and when
handing them over on the Somerset border generally waved at each
other with smiles and vigour!
Of course, Cullompton was on the main A38, the main route into
the county for holiday makers from the North, Midlanda and Wales.
The use of the car on Saturdays was therefore not practical so we
were expected to take to two wheels-Triumph 350 or 500cc motor
cycles. These were issued at the start of the holiday season and
then returned to H.Q. at the end of the season...........
It was almost taboo for any other driver to take our prized
Healey out. Not many wanted to so because of the knack requied to
get in and get out of it, and of course in those days it was a
very fast car-probably the most potent in the force fleet. When
one was issued to Cullompton, I was still a novice driver, so
many assumed that I would be sent elsewhere. As a single man I
was expendable but remained to drive the new sprts car. Goodness
knows what the insurers would have costed out my cover at!
However, as I said, things were done differently in those days.
The car had little quirks of course. On one occasion I returned
from a spell of annual levae and took the car out on patrol in
the normal way. I hadn't seen or spoken to my co-driver prior to
my return. I drove into the Exeter boundary and was returning to
Cullompton when the car died on me. I coasted to a lay-by and
noticed that the the fuel was low and supposed that I had allowed
the car to run dry- a bad thing to do. I hailed a passing
motorist and asked him to call in at the nearest garage for them
to come to me with petrol. No sooner had this been done when the
radio called for me and directed me to nearby Pinhoe where q
burglar had been disturbed. I had to report a breakdown-but with
no mention of low fuel-and waited with growing anxiety. The
petrol arrived and still 118HTT refused to start. The Force
mechanic was summoned and when he arrived he simply banged the
floor behind the front seats and immediately the mechanical fuel
pump could be heard ticking away- and of course the car started.
Apparently my mate had experienced similar problems and forgot to
mention it to me.
On another occasion, the evening before a promotion examination
at Torquay, we were hit by as sudden snow storm which almost
prevented our return to Cullompton. After dealing with several
accidents we managed to make it back in the middle of the night
with the sump ploughing a furrow through the snow. She proved to
be a good stable car in those conditions owing to weight. We
found that even used in Police work, she returned high mileage on
the Michelin X tyres. Little or nothing of a major nature ever
went wrong with the car. There were no leakages or any teething
problems and the Healey proved to be very trouble-free.
The radio took a large percentage of the smnall boot area,
meaning that we were able to carry very little by way of
equipment, signs etc. When the car was new the old valve radios
were still on issue, and when the new transistor model came in,
it helped a little. Accident attendance was therefore a little
haphazard to say the least and we often relied on other cars or
the local sergeant, to attend with additional accident signing.
we attended some horrific accidents on the old A38, yet seemed to
manage somehow. I recall that one night we were on a convict
checkpoint in Cullompton main street in cold and snowy
conditions, when a motorist brought word of a series of bad
accidents at Burlescombe on the A38 in the blizzard conditions.
My mate remained at the checkpoint while I attended the accidents
on my own with no lights, signs or other aids. The scene was that
i shall never forget with cars in ditches etc and several injured
persons. How digfferent the situation is now but we were the only
car in the East of the county and had nobody else to call for
assistance.
On another occasion we were on the same checkpoint in the middle
of the night when a Healey came along driven by a girl with a
male passenger. They drove off towards Taunton and of course in
the stillness of the night we could hear the unbroken and
wonderful sound of the three litre engine. However, suddenly
there was the sound of a smash and, upon investigation, we founf
that the car had hit a wall, killing the driver. The passenger
tried to say that he had been driving (because of the insurance
situation and that the driver possessed no licence) but we were
able to rebut that knowing that it was impossible to change
places in a Healey while it was in motion! (or stationary for
that matter!!)
As far as I was concerned, it was a great privelege to have been
able to drive such a wonderful vehicle as part of my duties. The
sound of a 3000 engine is something which is still a great
pleasure to me, being quite unique even after nearly four
decades. I simply hope that 118HTT is still going strong. When I
left Cullompton she had recorded 70,000 miles and ,because of our
loving and dutiful care, the car looked as good as new. What her
final mileage in police service was I don't know- but the present
owner can take comfort in the knowledge that in her first years
of ownership she received nothing but care and respect."
From "Anders Lotsengård" <healeyeast at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 09:32:49 +0100
Subject: Towing caravan after Big Healey?
To my Austin Healey Mk3 I am planning to add a small caravan for
summercruising. Therefore I am in desperate need for information about
towing-bars (guess that the correct description?) for Big Healeys!
Does anybody know if it was ever delivered as factory equipment?
Does anybody ever seen anyone?
Does anybody have an drawing or at least a sketch or an idea about a
possible construction?
Please, send me a line if you have any idea about caravan-towing after Big
Healey!
Anders Lotsengerd
Oskarshamn, Sweden
healeyeast@hotmail.com
_________________________________________________________________________
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 11:35:30 EST
Subject: Re: Ammeter or voltmeter?
A volt meter is like a fuel gauge for the battery, and a amp gauge is like a
oil pressure gauge for the battery. The volt gauge will only tell you there
is a problem when the battery charge is low and then it is to late. The amp
gauge will tell you that the battery is not being charged right now and that
you will be having a problem soon. I would strongly recomend a amp gauge
because of this, also you should use a gauge that reads -30 - 0 - +30 .
Since the generator only charges approximatly 10 amps most of the time you
will not if it is charging if you go with a gauge that reads higher than that.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 04:18:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Ammeter or voltmeter?
David,
I have a question for you.
Why, after all the discussion about where to get the proper heater ducting for
an
Austin Healey, did you not come out and say, "we sell it"?
All the discussion and chasing of pipe organ rebuilders and factories in the UK
ended up at a big zero. Is the ducting that you sell for restorations not
correct?
Bob Denton
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Dec 2000 15:29:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Your favorite Healey book
Try www.bookfinder.com . It's worked quite well for me in the past
when looking for out-of-print books. Our local book store suggested
it, in addition to www.alibris.com .
Ed A
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, December 22, 2000 1:17 PM
Subject: Re: Your favorite Healey book
>
>Referring to Marcus Chambers' The Seven Year Twitch, and Pat Moss's
The Story
>So Far -- these books have both been out of print for nearly 30
years. Mine
>both were located by a second-hand book locater that a friend of mine
found
>on the internet. I don't have the web site, so if anyone else can
offer
>suggestions on locating out-of-print car books, we'd all appreciate
it.
>Cheers
>Gary
From Tom Dugger <tdugger at ibm.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Dec 2000 16:32:46 -0600
Subject: Re: Ammeter or voltmeter?
Sorry, couldn't leave this one alone.
If you are going to keep the original GENERATOR and voltage reg setup, I
would cast my vote for amp meter. It gives immediate information about
the
condition of the charging system, i e it'll let you know at start up if
the cut-out
comes in and starts charging, conversely, it'll give you an indication
if the thing
sticks. Voltmeter waits and tells ya when there isn't any left, oops.
It's simple and accurate. It's easy to install.
It's gonna read backwards on a pos grd car,truck, or tractor. I dunno
why, or how
to fix it. I actually read somewhere what the recommended fix was, but
alas,
cannot recall. My 8n Ford read backwards for years, no prob.
Tom pos grd bn2, 8n, 23 Dodge Bros, 29 Dodge Bros
ps. if you go to an alternator, forget everything i said, delete this
email immediately
Bruce Steele wrote:
> I am considering adding an ammeter or voltmeter to my BN7, and
> therefore interested in the wisdom and experience of any of you who
> have added same to his/her car. My questions:
>
> 1. Comments on which type of guage to use, if availability allows a
> choice.
> 2. Source(s) or availability for a Smiths guage, or similiar, which
> would match or compliment the 3000 guages
> 3. Proper wiring for which ever type (mine is neg ground)
> 4. Any other relevant words of wisdom
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bruce
> bsteele2@pacbell.net
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 20:07:21 +0800
Subject: BT7 dashboard fixings
Hi All
Now that the Christmas festivities are over for another year I'm back
working on the Healey.
I am about to install the vertical dashboard to the car and can't find any
information in my parts manual about the dash or the number and type of
fixings. I still have the old LH dash that came in one of the boxes and can
only find one central hole through the dash and what looks like a hole on
either end coming in from the side.
Is this all that holds it in place? oops and almost forgot the stay that
goes back to the firewall.
TIA
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in restoration
From "Hatcher, Bob" <hatcher at shoalhaven.nsw.gov.au>
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 23:20:34 +1100
Subject: Paint codes
The request for a color cross reference is a common one (currently Perry is
asking about BN2 Reno Red) and I would like to ask if anyone could help with
the PPG code for Florida Green (ICI code 2997).
Can anyone help with this extra color code request?
Is there a web site or reference book that someone can advise? Publishing
how to research these colors for yourself would be of assistance to many
owners.
Bob Hatcher
BN1 (Australia)
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 08:29:33 EST
Subject: Beatles in a Bugeye
Christmas Day I was looking through the new Beatles Anthology Book that my
brother had received and came across some interesting photos. Check them out
at
<A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/jwhabeatlesbugeye.html";>http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/jwhabeatlesbugeye.html</A>
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 10:27:59 EST
Subject: Re: BN6 shifting question.
>From the initial description, it sounded like you were able to enter reverse
with little effort -- that is, the lever moved over to the "slot" where you
could then push it into reverse. Actually, overcoming the spring-loaded pin
that should keep you out of reverse under normal conditions ought to require
some effort. If there is no significant detent effect, then you need to pull
the side cover fromt he tranny (easy to do with it still in the car) and work
on the cross shaft detent, which is illustrated clearly in the shop manual
drawings. It is just a spring-loaded pin, with rounded tip, that nests into
a groove int eh cross shaft.
Also, if you find the 1st gears grind after you've depressed the clutch for a
few seconds, the clutch disc could be hanging up on the flywheel and not
releasing fully. One way to check this is to, with the clutch pedal
depressed, first shift into any of the top three gears (2nd, 3rd, or 4th).
This should stop all gears in the tranny from turning. Then try to shift
into first.
Clutch disks can get gummy from old leaked oil. If so, they need to be
replaced. I don't know of any way to clean them. Of course, this requires
pulling the transmission. And while it's out you should plan, at a minimum,
on replacing the front tranny seal. It also would be worth while taking it
apart and checking the synchros and lay shaft. These are the first parts to
wear and should always be considered for routine replacement.
In my opinion, since there is no rear main seal on Healey engines, and their
design is such that any seeping oil should either drain to the sump or be
slung by the back side of the flywheel, any oil on the clutch is almost
certainly due to the transmission front seal leaking. This situation
applies, of course, only if you have symptoms of the sticking clutch disc.
Roger
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 11:42:00 EST
Subject: Re: BT7 dashboard fixings
The Healey metal dash is held in place on both sides with 3 10/32x5/8
phillips pan head screws and one in the center of the dash. There is also a
bracket just left of center on the bottom edge next to the dash switch that
supports the bottom of the dash.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From Norman Cay <normcay at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 08:44:11 -0800
Subject: Re: BN1 parts x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Bill,
Sorry about the late response, I've been out since early friday. I will make a
drawing of the early style and send it to you. The multi-piece (later) style
would probably be easier to make but if you can fab the early style, that
would be really good. I understand they are very hard to come by. I should
have drawings to you in .dwg format by the end of next week.
best regards,
Norm Cay
ynotink wrote:
> Norm,
>
> That would be great. I live in Albuquerque and I have access to AutoCAD
> release 14. My car number is 554 so this sounds like the correct item. If
> you can draw them up and send the files across the internet I would be in
> your debt.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> Norman Cay wrote:
>
> > Bill, I have an excellent set that I believe is for the early BN-1
> > (non-adjustable door pins and curved perspex - no flap) I believe these
> > were for cars prior to body No. 1100. I also have access to a set of the
> > thin frame type. While I am not going to part with these, I can
> > characterize them in CAD drawing files for you if you are interested in
> > fabricating them yourself. Where are you located, I am in the San
> > Francisco south bay area.
> > norm,
> > BN-1, BN-2, MkII 3.8 Jag, TR6R Triumph
> >
> > ynotink wrote:
> >
> > > Hello all,
> > >
> > > I have a couple of questions to ask concerning
> > > parts I need to finish my BN1.
> > >
> > > Does anyone have or know of a source for the early
> > > BN1 side curtains (all perspex on thin aluminum
> > > frames)? I am interested in acquiring a set even
> > > if it's only the frames. Alternatively if someone
> > > has pictures or drawings of the frames I might be
> > > able to fabricate a set.
> > >
> > > Does anyone have a set of the early door checks?
> > > These are the ones with the bar which is almost
> > > straight. I need one of the bars, two of the
> > > rubber buffers and two of the door-end mounts.
> > > These checks will not interchange with the later
> > > BN1/BN2 parts.
> > >
> > > Thanks to everyone for their attention, and have a
> > > happy holiday.
> > >
> > > Bill Lawrence
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 12:08:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Ammeter or voltmeter?
Sorry but I respectfully disagree.
In the electrical to hydraulics equivalency game, voltage is
pressure and current (amps) is flow rate (ie gph). The various
circuit components or devices are often identified by their
resistance value (same principle for plumbing fittings and
fixtures, but not as often invoked in residential applications).
You may like to think of a charged up battery as a full fuel tank,
but ampere-hours is more appropriate. I have seen lots of
batteries with 14 volts that won't turn over a wiper motor.
Amperes represented by oil pressure does not work at all. If you
block an oil passageway the oil pressure goes up (assuming a
positive displacement pump). If you 'block' a circuit the amps go
down.
As a point of interest, the 30/50 amp 220 volt household oven
heating element wires are really small diameter buggers with very
low resistance values. It's all in V=IR and P=VI.
Mike L
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <bsteele2@pacbell.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: December 26, 2000 11:35 AM
Subject: Re: Ammeter or voltmeter?
>
> A volt meter is like a fuel gauge for the battery, and a amp
gauge is like a
> oil pressure gauge for the battery. The volt gauge will only
tell you there
> is a problem when the battery charge is low and then it is to
late. The amp
> gauge will tell you that the battery is not being charged right
now and that
> you will be having a problem soon. I would strongly recomend a
amp gauge
> because of this, also you should use a gauge that reads -30 -
0 - +30 .
> Since the generator only charges approximatly 10 amps most of
the time you
> will not if it is charging if you go with a gauge that reads
higher than that.
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif. 95205
> 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at <A
HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
> Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 12:23:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Ammeter or voltmeter?
Once again sorry to disagree.
A voltmeter, particularly a digital with one decimal accuracy
(BTW hooked up with speaker wires), will instantly tell when the
charging system is out of whack. Jag etypes had analogue
voltmeters as original equip and no ammeter.
The digital one decimal accuracy will also allow you monitor
battery condition over time. You will be able to see the 'at rest'
voltage moving down, say from 12.5 to 12.3, after a run. A voltage
drop after a long run may indicate a problem. But over a season or
two the 'at rest' voltage slippage is easy to watch and therefore
monitoring battery or charge system deterioration becomes almost
an exact science. This is not possible with a analogue voltmeter.
It isn't just the lack of resolution, but it seems that a digital
number imprints on your memory far easier than an analogue needle
position, mentally converted.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Dugger <tdugger@ibm.net>
To: Bruce Steele <bsteele2@pacbell.net>
Cc: Healey Mail Group <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: December 25, 2000 5:32 PM
Subject: Re: Ammeter or voltmeter?
>
> Sorry, couldn't leave this one alone.
> If you are going to keep the original GENERATOR and voltage reg
setup, I
>
> would cast my vote for amp meter. It gives immediate information
about
> the
> condition of the charging system, i e it'll let you know at
start up if
> the cut-out
> comes in and starts charging, conversely, it'll give you an
indication
> if the thing
> sticks. Voltmeter waits and tells ya when there isn't any left,
oops.
> It's simple and accurate. It's easy to install.
> It's gonna read backwards on a pos grd car,truck, or tractor. I
dunno
> why, or how
> to fix it. I actually read somewhere what the recommended fix
was, but
> alas,
> cannot recall. My 8n Ford read backwards for years, no prob.
> Tom pos grd bn2, 8n, 23 Dodge Bros, 29 Dodge Bros
> ps. if you go to an alternator, forget everything i said, delete
this
> email immediately
>
> Bruce Steele wrote:
>
> > I am considering adding an ammeter or voltmeter to my BN7, and
> > therefore interested in the wisdom and experience of any of
you who
> > have added same to his/her car. My questions:
> >
> > 1. Comments on which type of guage to use, if availability
allows a
> > choice.
> > 2. Source(s) or availability for a Smiths guage, or similiar,
which
> > would match or compliment the 3000 guages
> > 3. Proper wiring for which ever type (mine is neg ground)
> > 4. Any other relevant words of wisdom
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Bruce
> > bsteele2@pacbell.net
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 12:49:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Ammeter or voltmeter?
I have to agree with you whole heartedly Michael,
In the years that I have been in this business I have seen more than one
serious electrical meltdown caused by poor ammeter installation, and
several cases of breakdown.
A voltmeter (analogue or digtal) can be installed using the existing
fused circuits and poses minimal risk to the reliability of the
electrical system. It is also a very valuable tool for spotting problems
or deterioation of the battery and charging systems.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Michael Lupynec wrote:
> Once again sorry to disagree.
>
> A voltmeter, particularly a digital with one decimal accuracy
> (BTW hooked up with speaker wires), will instantly tell when the
> charging system is out of whack. Jag etypes had analogue
> voltmeters as original equip and no ammeter.
>
> The digital one decimal accuracy will also allow you monitor
> battery condition over time. You will be able to see the 'at rest'
> voltage moving down, say from 12.5 to 12.3, after a run. A voltage
> drop after a long run may indicate a problem. But over a season or
> two the 'at rest' voltage slippage is easy to watch and therefore
> monitoring battery or charge system deterioration becomes almost
> an exact science. This is not possible with a analogue voltmeter.
> It isn't just the lack of resolution, but it seems that a digital
> number imprints on your memory far easier than an analogue needle
> position, mentally converted.
>
> Mike L.
> 60A,67E,59Bug
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Tom Dugger <tdugger@ibm.net>
> To: Bruce Steele <bsteele2@pacbell.net>
> Cc: Healey Mail Group <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: December 25, 2000 5:32 PM
> Subject: Re: Ammeter or voltmeter?
>
> >
> > Sorry, couldn't leave this one alone.
> > If you are going to keep the original GENERATOR and voltage reg
> setup, I
> >
> > would cast my vote for amp meter. It gives immediate information
> about
> > the
> > condition of the charging system, i e it'll let you know at
> start up if
> > the cut-out
> > comes in and starts charging, conversely, it'll give you an
> indication
> > if the thing
> > sticks. Voltmeter waits and tells ya when there isn't any left,
> oops.
> > It's simple and accurate. It's easy to install.
> > It's gonna read backwards on a pos grd car,truck, or tractor. I
> dunno
> > why, or how
> > to fix it. I actually read somewhere what the recommended fix
> was, but
> > alas,
> > cannot recall. My 8n Ford read backwards for years, no prob.
> > Tom pos grd bn2, 8n, 23 Dodge Bros, 29 Dodge Bros
> > ps. if you go to an alternator, forget everything i said, delete
> this
> > email immediately
> >
> > Bruce Steele wrote:
> >
> > > I am considering adding an ammeter or voltmeter to my BN7, and
> > > therefore interested in the wisdom and experience of any of
> you who
> > > have added same to his/her car. My questions:
> > >
> > > 1. Comments on which type of guage to use, if availability
> allows a
> > > choice.
> > > 2. Source(s) or availability for a Smiths guage, or similiar,
> which
> > > would match or compliment the 3000 guages
> > > 3. Proper wiring for which ever type (mine is neg ground)
> > > 4. Any other relevant words of wisdom
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > >
> > > Bruce
> > > bsteele2@pacbell.net
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 11:23:29 -0700
Subject: MG Midget Kangol seat belts
Listers:
Anyone have a source for Kangol brand (DE016) 2761459 style auto seat belt
retractors. Specifically the black plastic covers?? Any help much
appreciated. No web site found..except for hats
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
From tom Blaskovics <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 02:01:06 -0500
Subject: OEM Ammeter
Was a voltmeter or an ammeter ever sold as optional equipment
for the BJ7 or 8?
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Back on the Road in July
MB 450 SL
Morgantown, WV
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 14:26:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Paint codes
Hi Bob,
Here's what I have on Florida Green: PPG # 42595, Martin-Senor # 20018,
Dupont # 8190. The PPG code may be of little use as it is likely from before
their paints were reformulated, but it is worth a try. Enjoy!
Peter (BMC Restorations)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hatcher, Bob" <hatcher@shoalhaven.nsw.gov.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 6:20 AM
Subject: Paint codes
>
> The request for a color cross reference is a common one (currently Perry
is
> asking about BN2 Reno Red) and I would like to ask if anyone could help
with
> the PPG code for Florida Green (ICI code 2997).
>
> Can anyone help with this extra color code request?
>
> Is there a web site or reference book that someone can advise? Publishing
> how to research these colors for yourself would be of assistance to many
> owners.
>
> Bob Hatcher
> BN1 (Australia)
From Mike Blair <blimpie at digisys.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 12:43:23 -0700
Subject: List Problem
Is there a problem with the healey list. I have not received an e-mail from
the list in 2 days.
Thanks
Mike
From "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6 at mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 18:12:30 -0500
Subject: Austin-Healey Club USA Calendar
Hey Reid,
Received my 2001 calendar today. Great period photographs, but no hole to hang
it on the refrigerator magnet. I had to use my three hole punch so now I can
use three magnets.
Larry Mercier
BN6
AN5
AN6
AN8
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 00:32:26 +0100
Subject: Re: Towing caravan after Big Healey?
> To my Austin Healey Mk3 I am planning to add a small caravan for
> summercruising. Therefore I am in desperate need for information about
> towing-bars (guess that the correct description?) for Big Healeys!
>
> Does anybody know if it was ever delivered as factory equipment?
>
> Does anybody ever seen anyone?
>
> Does anybody have an drawing or at least a sketch or an idea about a
> possible construction?
>
> Please, send me a line if you have any idea about caravan-towing after Big
> Healey!
>
Hi there.....
must be someone out there with info on this.. have stacked away some photos of
Healeys "dragging" away some very ugly looking halfcut healeys done as (or
reborne as ) trailers........(Sorry guys.. I.M.H.O.... they are ugly).
If you want photos I'll try to hunt them down.
E.Larssen 60BT7
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 19:57:46 EST
Subject: Re: Paint codes
How about DonPikovnik's book " Austin Healey Guide to Historic Colors"? Don's
address is 2883 Industrial Park Drive, Austinburg, OH, 44010, USA. Try him
at donp@ncweb.com
No interest in the book, etc.
John Stevens
"Ruby" BJ8 27621
JohnbS7257@aol.com
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 20:05:29 EST
Subject: Fwd: Paint codes
Return-path: <HealeyRic2@aol.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Full-name: HealeyRic2
Message-ID: <3b.e58bacb.277beba8@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 20:04:40 EST
Subject: Re: Paint codes
To: hatcher@shoalhaven.nsw.gov.au
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 4.0 for Mac sub 189
In a message dated 12/27/00 7:22:57 AM, hatcher@shoalhaven.nsw.gov.au writes:
<<The request for a color cross reference is a common one (currently Perry is
asking about BN2 Reno Red) and I would like to ask if anyone could help with
the PPG code for Florida Green (ICI code 2997).
Can anyone help with this extra color code request?
Is there a web site or reference book that someone can advise? Publishing
how to research these colors for yourself would be of assistance to many
owners.>>
A comprehensive paint code book was published about a year ago by Don
Pikovnik. Go here for the details:
http://www.listquest.com/lq/view.cgi?ln=healeys&mid=26111&sp=&q=pikovnik&b=1&s
=1&o=0
Happy Healeydays
Rick
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 12:50:31 +0800
Subject: BT7 Boot latch colour
Hi All
As you can see I am moving around the car and an now working on the boot
(trunk to some of you) lid.
What colour is the latch that is fastened to the lid?
TIA
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in restoration
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 23:19:43 -0800
Subject: Re: Towing caravan after Big Healey?
Eyvind Larssen: Hey! If I wasn't having so much fun, I might resesent
that remark about ugly half-Healeys. They may be ugly to you but I get
plenty of 'thumbs up' and photos taken as I tow my 3000 Junior down the
road. AND, a Healey with half-Healey trailer took Best of Show at a West
Coast Meet. So there!
Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eyvind Larssen" <seel@online.no>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 3:32 PM
Subject: Re: Towing caravan after Big Healey?
>
> > To my Austin Healey Mk3 I am planning to add a small caravan for
> > summercruising. Therefore I am in desperate need for information about
> > towing-bars (guess that the correct description?) for Big Healeys!
> >
> > Does anybody know if it was ever delivered as factory equipment?
> >
> > Does anybody ever seen anyone?
> >
> > Does anybody have an drawing or at least a sketch or an idea about a
> > possible construction?
> >
> > Please, send me a line if you have any idea about caravan-towing after
Big
> > Healey!
> >
>
> Hi there.....
> must be someone out there with info on this.. have stacked away some
photos of Healeys "dragging" away some very ugly looking halfcut healeys
done as (or reborne as ) trailers........(Sorry guys.. I.M.H.O.... they are
ugly).
> If you want photos I'll try to hunt them down.
>
> E.Larssen 60BT7
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 13:44:47 +0100
Subject: Re: Towing caravan after Big Healey?
I'm happy to notice someone is getting it right..... ;-)
E.Larssen 60BT7
snip
> They may be ugly to you...<
snip
> Len.
snip
........(Sorry guys.. I.M.H.O.... they are > ugly).
snip
> > E.Larssen 60BT7
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 09:19:06 EST
Subject: Re: BT7 Boot latch colour
In a message dated 12/27/2000 9:50:38 PM Mountain Standard Time,
jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au writes:
<< What colour is the latch that is fastened to the lid? >>
Latch hardware was adjusted and fastened to the boot lid and chassis before
painting. Thus, the latch on the lid and its attaching screws were all body
color, as were the striker plate and its attaching screws.
It is a very good idea to attach the boot hinges and adjust these bits before
painting. I first paint primer on the latch pieces and surfaces they mate
to. Then do my fitting. I use a medium size flat-blade screwdriver to
operate the latch mechanism through the boot lid hole, which works just fine.
Obviously test this out first, before closing and latching the lid to the
striker!!
Assembling these bits is necessary in order to check the boot lid fit to the
shroud anyway.
Then remove the hinges, but leave the latch pieces attached, when you paint
the car.
I have a copy of an article published in Product Finishing, Vol. 9, No. 8,
August 1956 which describes the paint system used by Jensen. The photos show
100 bodies going through the line, and the boot lids appear to be in place,
with hinges.
When I work on cars that have never been apart from new, I always find body
color under the boot hinges, so I'm not sure just how they held the boot lids
whenl painting them. Certainly, I would expect them to be on the cars for
metallic color painting, though they could be off the car for solid colors
with much less fear of paint mismatching.
Roger
From tom Blaskovics <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 09:47:15 -0500
Subject: regalia, memorabelia, and other goodies
Some of you may know of this place, but for others take a look.
My wonderful wife gave me a Healey sweatshirt for Christmas.
What is more interesting, is that she got a catalogue for a place
in York Pa. It has all kinds of neat stuff in it. They also have an
online catalogue that you might want to check out.
this is their address " http://www.triple-c.com/
Usual disclaimers.
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Back on the Road in July
MB 450 SL
Morgantown, WV
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 22:59:48 +0800
Subject: Re: BT7 Boot latch colour
Thanks Roger
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2000 10:19 PM
Subject: Re: BT7 Boot latch colour
> In a message dated 12/27/2000 9:50:38 PM Mountain Standard Time,
> jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au writes:
>
> << What colour is the latch that is fastened to the lid? >>
>
> Latch hardware was adjusted and fastened to the boot lid and chassis
before
> painting. Thus, the latch on the lid and its attaching screws were all
body
> color, as were the striker plate and its attaching screws.
>
> It is a very good idea to attach the boot hinges and adjust these bits
before
> painting. I first paint primer on the latch pieces and surfaces they mate
> to. Then do my fitting. I use a medium size flat-blade screwdriver to
> operate the latch mechanism through the boot lid hole, which works just
fine.
> Obviously test this out first, before closing and latching the lid to the
> striker!!
>
> Assembling these bits is necessary in order to check the boot lid fit to
the
> shroud anyway.
>
> Then remove the hinges, but leave the latch pieces attached, when you
paint
> the car.
>
> I have a copy of an article published in Product Finishing, Vol. 9, No. 8,
> August 1956 which describes the paint system used by Jensen. The photos
show
> 100 bodies going through the line, and the boot lids appear to be in
place,
> with hinges.
>
> When I work on cars that have never been apart from new, I always find
body
> color under the boot hinges, so I'm not sure just how they held the boot
lids
> whenl painting them. Certainly, I would expect them to be on the cars for
> metallic color painting, though they could be off the car for solid
colors
> with much less fear of paint mismatching.
>
> Roger
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 23:20:53 +0800
Subject: How did they do it? painting that is.
Hi All
>From the responses to my queries re painting various parts attached to the
car body I gather that the body was attached to the chassis and the whole
assembly was painted. From Roger's last comments re boot painting it appears
that the boot was removed before final painting but after initial fitting.
During my painting process I have found the number "D28" stamped on the boot
stay fitting that is welded to the boot lid and also on the bonnet
connection fitting that is attached just above the cross brace in front of
the radiator.
I seem to remember that there was some discussion on this matter some short
time ago but obviously I wasn't paying attention. So---- assuming the same
logic one would suppose that the door stay assembly and hinges are painted
body colour as well.
Any comments?
TIA
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in restoration
From "Mondrosch, John" <John.Mondrosch at icn.siemens.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 11:17:17 -0500
Subject: Lucas Fuel pump
Have a '63 BJ-7 and my fuel pump is starting to act up. I noticed that Moss
has the original Lucas
pumps on sale. I have two questions
1. Has anyone installed the double pump? It's only $5 more than the
single. Wondering about how
well it fits with plumbing, space, etc.
2. I recall some discussion a while back about NAPA pumps as a replacement.
Does anyone
recall that part number (or equivalent by another supplier)
Thanks
John A. Mondrosch
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 11:23:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Towing caravan after Big Healey?
I have a Healey tow bar that came with one of my cars. I haven't taken the
time to figure out how it works - I just put it away in the garage. If
interested, I could pull it out and take a picture.
Regards,
Mike L.
Bridgewater, NJ
'56 BN2
'59 BN7
'60 Bugeye
'67 Mustang 2+2
'70 E-Type
'79 Midget
From "R. Markl/B. Council" <rmarkl at bellsouth.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 10:23:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Lucas Fuel pump
Hi John,
This is what I have in my files:
Most British fuel pumps were rated at 2.5 - 3 psi.
NAPA's BK 610-1050 (4.0-6.0 psi; neg ground; $35)
610-1051 (2.5-4.5 psi; neg ground)
610-1052 (1.5-3.5 psi; neg ground; $2)
610-1069 (1.5-3.5 psi; neg or pos ground; $105)
610-1070 (ditto)
one lister rec J.C. Whitney 73 5344 (2.5-4.5 psi); $40.
Rudi Markl
100M
"Mondrosch, John" wrote:
>
> Have a '63 BJ-7 and my fuel pump is starting to act up. I noticed that Moss
> has the original Lucas
> pumps on sale. I have two questions
>
> 1. Has anyone installed the double pump? It's only $5 more than the
> single. Wondering about how
> well it fits with plumbing, space, etc.
>
> 2. I recall some discussion a while back about NAPA pumps as a replacement.
> Does anyone
> recall that part number (or equivalent by another supplier)
>
> Thanks
>
> John A. Mondrosch
From Richard Brill <alfranken at comic.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 04:31:15 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Reno Red
Perry,
This is a tough one. I suggest you go to your PPG supplier and find
the chip for an early Dodge Reliant Maroon. I found that this is a
dead-on match for Reno Red, using an inner panel from the battery
cover area as my referrence. Unfortunately I didn't keep the PPG
Code.
DickB
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 14:21:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Lucas Fuel pump
Hi John,
The fuel pump on your car was originally made by SU, not Lucas. I don't think
Lucas ever made fuel pumps but I could be wrong there.
The SU pumps sold today are almost identical in appearance to the originals, but
incorporate electronic switching and numerous other modifications which greatly
improve their durability.
My recommendation would be to stick with the SU. It will fit correctly, serve
you well and when you decide to go back to an SU, after the substitute fails or
you decide to restore the car to original, you won't be faced with trying to buy
or install all the little parts that the usually get removed and thrown away
when substitute pumps are fitted .
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
"Mondrosch, John" wrote:
> Have a '63 BJ-7 and my fuel pump is starting to act up. I noticed that Moss
> has the original Lucas
> pumps on sale. I have two questions
>
> 1. Has anyone installed the double pump? It's only $5 more than the
> single. Wondering about how
> well it fits with plumbing, space, etc.
>
> 2. I recall some discussion a while back about NAPA pumps as a replacement.
> Does anyone
> recall that part number (or equivalent by another supplier)
>
> Thanks
>
> John A. Mondrosch
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 16:25:48 EST
Subject: Re: Lucas Fuel pump
In a message dated 12/28/00 2:18:43 PM Eastern Standard Time,
magicare@home.com writes:
<< The SU pumps sold today are almost identical in appearance to the
originals, but
incorporate electronic switching and numerous other modifications which
greatly
improve their durability. >>
I recently purchased a solid state pump which I keep in its original box in
the boot. Ever since then my original pump has worked just fine....
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
From "Hatcher, Bob" <hatcher at shoalhaven.nsw.gov.au>
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 09:10:27 +1100
Subject: Paint codes
Hi Everyone
Many thanks to those who assisted with my recent enquiry about finding a
paint code (in my case Florida Green), I am following up the various leads,
especially the one about purchasing Don Pikovnik's book.
I sent an enquiry off to PPG from their web site ( www.ppg.com
<http://www.ppg.com> ) and quoted the various codes that I had been advised
- an old PPG number, Dupont and Martin-Senor. The response from PPG was very
fast and is included for the interest of others on the list...
Thank you for your interest in PPG Automotive Refinish
Paints. The color that you requested is available in lacquer only, which
makes it a formula for America only. I did a computer generated formula for
you in Global basecoat/clearcoat which should be available in your country.
Toners Quart/Grams
D753 1023.5
D777 1110.3
D776 1124.3
D794 1136.0
D740 1138.7
Hope this formula is helpful to you.
I'll now buy a test sample and try it out - once again, thanks to all who
helped.
Bob Hatcher
BN1 - Australia
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 19:16:57 EST
Subject: Re: How did they do it? painting that is.
In a message dated 12/28/2000 8:22:11 AM Mountain Standard Time,
jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au writes:
<<
I seem to remember that there was some discussion on this matter some short
time ago but obviously I wasn't paying attention. So---- assuming the same
logic one would suppose that the door stay assembly and hinges are painted
body colour as well.
>>
On 100s, the door stay straps are mounted from behind the hinge post --- very
difficult to do on an assembled car. THus, they were installed and painted
body color whent he entire car was painted.
On 6-cyl cars, the door checks are easily attached to the hinge posts, thus
these were put on after the car was painted and the factory used some jig to
hold the doors during painting. Yes, the door hinges were painted with the
doors and body.
The stamped numbers on boots, gravel pans, bonnets, etc. (and cockpit
moldings on 100s) were to assure that these pieces, after being temporarily
removed during final assembly on the line, were returned to their original
bodies. Further indication of how fits were "custom" and parts not fully
interchangable without some amount of further fitting.
Roger
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 22:33:39 -0500
Subject: nutty question
Were the two nuts that hold the coil bracket (left unpainted) to the
generator ,painted engine green ? Two orig BJ8s in the shop have traces of
green paint on the nuts.
Any thoughts ? this doesnt seem logical
Reguards Carroll
From "Alan J. Toepfer" <ajtoepfe at flash.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 23:14:40 -0600
Subject: Re: regalia, memorabelia, and other goodies
My wife got me some neat stuff from this place for Christmas also! They
have great monogrammed shirts!
Al Toepfer
'59 BT7L/1173
----------
>From: tom Blaskovics <u2347@wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: regalia, memorabelia, and other goodies
>Date: Thu, Dec 28, 2000, 8:47 AM
>
>
> Some of you may know of this place, but for others take a look.
>
> My wonderful wife gave me a Healey sweatshirt for Christmas.
> What is more interesting, is that she got a catalogue for a place
> in York Pa. It has all kinds of neat stuff in it. They also have an
> online catalogue that you might want to check out.
> this is their address " http://www.triple-c.com/
> Usual disclaimers.
> Thanks
> Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
> ACHA, ACHUSA
> BJ7 Registry
> HBJ7L/22380
> Back on the Road in July
> MB 450 SL
> Morgantown, WV
From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 22:48:24 -0800
Subject: old taunneau cover
I'm finishing my BN2 and am looking for an old taunneau cover to use as
a pattern. We have done everything-except engine rebuild- ourselves and
thought why not give this a shot too. Off-list replies welcomed.
mike g
BN2
Bellingham, Wa.
From "Rob Verhoef" <robv at valkieser.nl>
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 11:32:52 +0100
Subject: New website for Dutch Healey club
Hai All,
I suppose most of you know the current dutch Healey Club website at
ah-nederland.simplenet.com. Most of you must also have noticed the
lack of updates the last 1 and half year. Well from today were back
online with a totally new site. It will be most interesting for the
dutch Healey enthousiast but also for the English speaking community.
So please go and check it out at
http://www.healey.nl
Have a good new Healey year.......
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 09:21:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Lucas Fuel pump
"Ever since then my original pump has worked just fine..."
Must have scared it!! ;-)
Happy New Year to All.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 12/28/00 2:18:43 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> magicare@home.com writes:
>
> << The SU pumps sold today are almost identical in appearance to the
> originals, but
> incorporate electronic switching and numerous other modifications which
> greatly
> improve their durability. >>
>
> I recently purchased a solid state pump which I keep in its original box in
> the boot. Ever since then my original pump has worked just fine....
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 09:52:20 EST
Subject: Re: Lucas Fuel pump
Michael,
I went the other route. I installed a new SU fuel pump from Moss on the BJ8
and decided to keep my old one as the spare. The old one works fine but after
25 years I felt it was time. Good thing I did because the new fuel pump did
not work!!!
Luckily I learned about the problem in the comfort of my garage.
My BN4 has dual aftermarket pumps. One died on the way to Conclave. It was so
nice just to flip a switch under the dash and keep on going. Still had me
wondering the whole trip if the other was going to die. I actually went to
NAPA in Indy and purchased another just in case.
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
> I recently purchased a solid state pump which I keep in its original box in
> > the boot.
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 08:00:26 -0700
Subject: bumpers
Well I got my bumpers back yesterday from being straightened and re-chromed.
Both were tweeked and 3 of the 4 bumperettes were crunched a little.......
All I can say is WOW..... ooh, aahh ...... Now for the question. The
inside of the bumpers were grey I recall... is this the same grey as the
interior top surround (i.e., rustoleum Smoke Grey being pretty close)?
Thanks.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 - with like new original bumpers.
From Jim Rowan <jimrowan at uic.edu>
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 09:07:33 -0600
Subject: Re: regalia, memorabelia, and other goodies
Even better is that they are currently having a 15% off sale.
Wish they had a Koolart Bugeye t-shirt. I mean come on,
they have a Triumph Stag & Jensen Healey but no Sprites.
I would think the bugeye's cartoonish looks would lend itself
perfectly to this type of shirt. Had to settle for a Mini shirt.
Cheers,
James
At 11:14 PM 12/28/2000 -0600, Alan J. Toepfer wrote:
>
>My wife got me some neat stuff from this place for Christmas also! They
>have great monogrammed shirts!
>Al Toepfer
>'59 BT7L/1173
>----------
>>From: tom Blaskovics <u2347@wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
>>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>>Subject: regalia, memorabelia, and other goodies
>>Date: Thu, Dec 28, 2000, 8:47 AM
>>
>
>>
>> Some of you may know of this place, but for others take a look.
>>
>> My wonderful wife gave me a Healey sweatshirt for Christmas.
>> What is more interesting, is that she got a catalogue for a place
>> in York Pa. It has all kinds of neat stuff in it. They also have an
>> online catalogue that you might want to check out.
>> this is their address " http://www.triple-c.com/
>> Usual disclaimers.
>> Thanks
>> Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
>> ACHA, ACHUSA
>> BJ7 Registry
>> HBJ7L/22380
>> Back on the Road in July
>> MB 450 SL
>> Morgantown, WV
From Russ Staub <bbb11489 at getnet.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 08:37:30 -0700
Subject: Re: old taunneau cover
Mike,
Can this be true, you're nearly finished on your BN2? After years of
inaction, that short drive in our BN2 must have really stirred you to
action. An example of how inspiring these cars can be. Congratulations!
Russ Staub
Mesa, AZ
'56BN2
'67BJ8
michael e gougeon wrote:
> I'm finishing my BN2 ...........
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 10:56:36 -0500
Subject: Re: bumpers
Now I'm curious. Are BN6 bumpers painted on the inside too?
Bob Denton
1958 BN-6
James Sailor wrote:
> Well I got my bumpers back yesterday from being straightened and re-chromed.
> Both were tweeked and 3 of the 4 bumperettes were crunched a little.......
> All I can say is WOW..... ooh, aahh ...... Now for the question. The
> inside of the bumpers were grey I recall... is this the same grey as the
> interior top surround (i.e., rustoleum Smoke Grey being pretty close)?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8 - with like new original bumpers.
From James A Baustian <jabaustian at networksplus.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 11:04:11 -0600
Subject: BN1 Tonneau Cover
Michael E Gougeon
I have an original equipment BN1 tonneau cover that is in reasonably good
condition and will be glad to consider lending it for use as a pattern.
jabaustian@networksplus.net Kansas
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 13:05:55 EST
Subject: Re: bumpers
I have had the bumpers on my BN4, BT7 and BJ8 redone or bought new. I
sprayed the inside with an aluminum color directly from the spray can. It
has lasted for many years and is very easy to renew. As far as which car was
done this way, you will have to ask the technical experts here.
Rudy Streng
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 13:22:33 -0500
Subject: Re: bumpers
Maybe you can shed some light on this subject regarding bumpers. Are all Healey
bumpers painted on the back? If not, which ones are? Also, what type of gray?
Thank you, sir.
Bob Denton
1058 BN-6
CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
> I have had the bumpers on my BN4, BT7 and BJ8 redone or bought new. I
> sprayed the inside with an aluminum color directly from the spray can. It
> has lasted for many years and is very easy to renew. As far as which car was
> done this way, you will have to ask the technical experts here.
> Rudy Streng
From tom Blaskovics <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 13:24:19 -0500
Subject: Boot cover fastners
Hi listers,
Can anyone tell me if the fasteners to attach the boot cover are
come placed or do you "place" them when the boot cover is shipped
to you.
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Back on the Road in July
MB 450 SL
Morgantown, WV
From "Jim Briske" <jbriske at onemain.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 11:51:33 -0800
Subject: Re: Reno Red
Hi Perry, I got the correct Reno red from Tom Kovacs at Fourintune.
414-375-0876 Jim Briske
-----Original Message-----
From: Healeyguy@aol.com <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, December 26, 2000 9:16 PM
Subject: Re: Reno Red
>
>Listers
>I'm looking for a paint cross reference for BN2 Reno red. The factory code
is
>RD14, ICI code is 3000. The local choices are PPG, Martin Senior and
Sherman
>Williams. Of the three PPG would be my first choice. Any have a mix
formula?
>Thanks
>Aloha
>Perry
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 15:14:17 EST
Subject: Re: nutty question
In a message dated 12/28/2000 8:36:58 PM Mountain Standard Time,
bjcap@frontiernet.net writes:
<<
Were the two nuts that hold the coil bracket (left unpainted) to the
generator ,painted engine green ? Two orig BJ8s in the shop have traces of
green paint on the nuts.
>>
It's possible that the nuts were threaded onto the studs of the bracket
before the coil was attached and when the bracket was painted. Using a
wrench on the nuts would likely chip off much of the paint. I doubt they
were "perfect" in paint finish when the car was sold new. A reasonable
option would be to just not paint the nuts but leave them plated.
Roger
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 15:14:14 EST
Subject: Re: bumpers
All are painted silver on the back sides, including the overriders.
Roger
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 17:28:40 EST
Subject: Re: Boot cover fastners
Hi Tom,
I know that no matter which answer I give, there will be someone who has come
down the other path. I have only done 2 tonneaus in my Healey lifetime and I
had to make, punch out and insert all the snaps.
Rudy Streng
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 15:47:23 -0500
Subject: Re:Jaguar Manual
I have a Bentley manual, The Complete Official Jaguar "E", in fairly good
condition that is available. If interested please contact me off the
list. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "R. Markl/B. Council" <rmarkl at bellsouth.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 19:39:29 -0600
Subject: AH/MGA parts for sale/trade
FOR SALE (or trade for "100" bits); please contact me off list:
NOS 49" Smiths speedometer cable for side-shift, non-OD (BN7 5589 & BT7
6675 up to center shift).
NORS red fuzzy door seal strip for 100-6/early 3000; reproduction; new
USED
King Dick B1077 jack (for BN1, MGA?, TD?); no handle
original MGA transmission gears (not close ratio; not repro); 1000 mi of
use
original MGA distributor with vacuum advance; 1000 mi of use
original MGA tyre pump with folding wire feet; 19" tall; no
name/markings
pair original Dunlop tyre levers
pair of front shocks; fit AH, but have reservoir on top; 6000 mi of use
miniature Tecalamit grease gun; all brass; 5 3/4" long; 7/8" diameter
original Lucas Sports coil; red top; aluminum body; push-on connections
WRENCHES (all marked "Made in England"):
King Dick box spanner; 4" long; 5/8 A/F - 9/16 A/F (from MGA)
King Dick flat open end 4 1/2" long; 1/2 A/F - 7/16 A/F (from MGA)
Superslim open end; 8" long; 1/2"W 9/16" BSF - 3/8" W 7/16" BSF
Superslim open end; 9" long; 7/8" AF - 3/4" AF ("GB" on ends)
Spearpoint open end; 3/4"AF - 11/16" AF
WILL TRADE FOR original BN2 box spanners, original tonneau cover or
other BN2 parts
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 21:15:41 -0500
Subject: Does anyone know what color bumper backs are supposed to be?
We all know by now that what looks good and what is correct can be very
different. Could someone tell us what color a bumper back is supposed be
painted, please.
Thank you Roger.
Bob Denton
1958 BN6
From gonzo18 at primenet.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 19:24:54 -0700
Subject: Halifax Healeys?
Listers
First I want to wish you all Seasons Greetings and a Healey New
Year. I love this list! Next, I will be spending some time in Halifax ,
Nova Scotia the next few months. Any Healey listers in the area? I would
love to hear from you. It would make the time away from home a little
easier.
Healey on
Ray Juncal
Toot toot!
From RandallC2 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 23:44:08 EST
Subject: No Subject
Hi All,
A while back there was some discussion of the list price ($) for the 100.
Does anyone know the additional cost (or list price) for a 100M?
Randy Hicks
BN2 100M
From RandallC2 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 00:08:18 EST
Subject: 100M Original Cost
Hi All,
A while back there was some discussion of the list price ($) for the 100.
Does anyone know the additional cost (or list price) for a 100M?
Randy Hicks
BN2 100M
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 09:05:16 EST
Subject: Old Club Records??
I'm working on a history of the Bluegrass Club and I am looking for
information. We were part of the factory Austin Healey Club as the Bluegrass
Centre from literature I have from 1963 and the recollections of members who
started the club in 1958.
I recall that when the factory clubs ceased operations Bic Healey rescued all
the records from destruction. Does anyone know where they currently reside? I
would like to find copies of anything pertaining to the Bluegrass Centre.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Newsletter Editor/Webmaster and now Regalia Chairman and Archivist for the
Bluegrass Club.
Visit the Bluegrass Web Site at Bluegrassclub.com
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 11:44:18 -0500
Subject: Re: MG Midget Kangol seat belts
Dave,
Without going out to the garage and crawling around on my head to look at
the numbers, let me share this with you.
In 1991 I added 3 point Kangol retracting belts to the BJ8. They were
modified to 2 point because at the time I frankly did not even think of the
mounting positions on the rear fender wells. Anyway, they came out of a
late MGB from a junkyard and were in excellent condition. Cost about
$10-20.
During the resto of the BN7 in recent years I knew I wanted the same 3 point
belts, so I shopped the junkyards again but no late MGBs with good belts.
Wound up with the rear seat belts from a 86 or so XJ6. Cost $25-30.
BTW for the third point I welded in a nut in the crossmember beneath the
rear shroud to accept the third point. Since this requires mounting the
reel upside down, a plastic thingy in the housing must be removed so that
the belt will retract. Takes only a few minutes.
Keith Pennell
> Listers:
> Anyone have a source for Kangol brand (DE016) 2761459 style auto seat
belt
> retractors. Specifically the black plastic covers?? Any help much
> appreciated. No web site found..except for hats
>
> Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> 59 AH :{) 54 BN1
>
> Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
From TC <tm-c at gmx.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 20:45:03 +0100
Subject: Looking for windscreen rapair kit
Hi,
I4m looking for a windscreen repair kit I saw advertised some time ago
in one of the UK or US classic car mags.
Something about a vacuum pump and some fluid to fill the chip in the
screen.
Anybody know where to get it or what the name of the product is? Or even
better has someone used it and can advise whether to use it or not?
Thanks,
Tim Campe
467 BJ8
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 20:18:47 -0800
Subject: Re: bumpers - painted, why?
Why did the factory do that?
At 03:14 PM 12/29/00 -0500, Rmoment@aol.com wrote:
>All are painted silver on the back sides, including the overriders.
>
>Roger
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 20:16:00 -0800
Subject: Re: Lucas Fuel pump
John,
If you install an after market pump I believe you will need a pressure
regulator. That is the only way to get a constant pressure with a variable
pressure pump, at least the cheap ones.
John
'62 BT7 MKII
With an after market pump and a soon to be installed new Lucas. I just love
the suspense of driving around with all those original and so reliable
Healey parts!
At 11:17 AM 12/28/00 -0500, Mondrosch, John wrote:
>Have a '63 BJ-7 and my fuel pump is starting to act up. I noticed that Moss
>has the original Lucas
>pumps on sale. I have two questions
>
>1. Has anyone installed the double pump? It's only $5 more than the
>single. Wondering about how
>well it fits with plumbing, space, etc.
>
>2. I recall some discussion a while back about NAPA pumps as a replacement.
>Does anyone
> recall that part number (or equivalent by another supplier)
>
>Thanks
>
> John A. Mondrosch
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 15:48:23 EST
Subject: Re: bumpers - painted, why?
In a message dated 12/30/2000 1:10:22 PM Mountain Standard Time,
jmsdarch@infoasis.com writes:
<< Why did the factory do that?
At 03:14 PM 12/29/00 -0500, Rmoment@aol.com wrote:
>All are painted silver on the back sides, including the overriders. >>
OK, why did the factory hand paint many wiring harness clips on 100s? ANd
why did they hand paint blanking plates on the firewall?
I suspect the back side of the bumpers and overriders were visible enough ,
and perhaps non-uniform in plated appearance, that they decided it would look
better to paint them.
Heck, Jaguar sealed the back side of overriders, as did Mercedes.
Only guesses on my part.
roger
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 17:04:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Boot cover fasteners
Hi, Tom -
The top boot from Moss comes WITHOUT the fasteners installed. This is
really the only practical way, since mating fasteners may have been replaced
at some time in the car's life and I don't think they were originally
located using a jig when the car was new anyway. It's better to place the
fasteners in the top boot to match what you have on your car.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: tom Blaskovics <u2347@wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, December 29, 2000 2:16 PM
Subject: Boot cover fastners
>
>Hi listers,
>Can anyone tell me if the fasteners to attach the boot cover are
>come placed or do you "place" them when the boot cover is shipped
>to you.
>Thanks
>Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
>ACHA, ACHUSA
>BJ7 Registry
>HBJ7L/22380
>Back on the Road in July
>MB 450 SL
>Morgantown, WV
From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 15:38:24 -0800
Subject: hardtop window. sealant?
I just installed the window into the hardtop and Roger is correct, it takes
hours of fitting and triming. Do any of you apply any sealant into the
rubber groove after the window is in place. It also looks like the corners
are a potential leaking point.
Where does the water leave the channel as it rolls down the back window?
Thanks
Jerry
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 16:07:08 -0800
Subject: Re: Looking for windscreen rapair kit
I found a kit at the local auto parts store. It didn't work as described
though. I don't think it ever really drew enough vacuum to suck the glue
into the crack. Maybe if the crack was bigger it would have done a better
job, not sure. I don't think the glue is anything more than regular
cyanoacrylate (sp), or crazy glue!
BK
-----------------------------------
At 11:45 AM 12/30/2000, TC wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I4m looking for a windscreen repair kit I saw advertised some time ago
>in one of the UK or US classic car mags.
>
>Something about a vacuum pump and some fluid to fill the chip in the
>screen.
>
>Anybody know where to get it or what the name of the product is? Or even
>better has someone used it and can advise whether to use it or not?
>
>Thanks,
>Tim Campe
>467 BJ8
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 19:55:48 -0600
Subject: Re: Looking for windscreen rapair kit
these kits are normally available at the larger auto supply stores and even
some grocery stores -- usually with the epoxys and silicon seals, etc.
----- Original Message -----
From: TC <tm-c@gmx.net>
To: Healey Chat <healeys@autox.team.net>,
Healey List
<majordomo@autox.team.net>,
"healeys-owner@autox.team.net"
<healeys-owner@autox.team.net>
Subject: Looking for windscreen rapair kit
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 20:45:03 +0100
Hi,
I4m looking for a windscreen repair kit I saw advertised some time ago
in one of the UK or US classic car mags.
Something about a vacuum pump and some fluid to fill the chip in the
screen.
Anybody know where to get it or what the name of the product is? Or even
better has someone used it and can advise whether to use it or not?
Thanks,
Tim Campe
467 BJ8
From "Robert Johnson" <rjdirect at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 18:42:21 -0800
Subject: Re: Looking for windscreen rapair kit
For any who have need to repair a cracked laminated safety glass windshield,
I'd suggest that you look in the Yellow Pages of your local phone book under
Windshield Repair as there are people who specialize in this repair that use
this vacuum equipment every day in virtually every city in America and their
fees are, in my experience, quite modest as the repair can be done "in
situ". It only takes about an hour for the process. I had it successfully
done to my windshield in '86 to three connected 1" cracks. They had to drill
a small hole at each crack end to stop the spread and then they used those
holes to draw in the clear bonding liquid with the vacuum pump. They then
applied radiant heat for a half hour to cure the bonding agent that had been
infused. It resulted in a barely noticeable repair which was still holding
without problems when I sold the car some 13 years later in '99. They
charged me $25. back in '86 in the San Diego area where I was living at the
time. I definitely made the right decision (for me) to not buy the equipment
and spend the time necessary to experiment and learn how to make the
equipment give the results I wanted. As much as I generally enjoy doing
things myself, this was one of those times when I just couldn't cost justify
it.
Cheers.
Bob Johnson
Crescent City, California
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 21:52:08 EST
Subject: Re: Looking for windscreen rapair kit
Tim,
That type of repair is very common in the auto industry and works well. You
will see a slight deflection in the glass if you look close enough but the
average person never notices. Dealers and fleet operators do it all the time.
It is always part of the retail prep of a sale car, done before the customer
sees the car and tries to negotiate for a new windshield.
I've tried kits like you describe and never really had any success. it takes
a certain talent and experience to do it properly. To have a professional do
it only costs about $35. Check with a glass shop or car dealer in your area,
they will have a recommendation. The official rule is that a repair is OK as
long as it is not in the wiper path. Car Dealers always take the cheapest
route so find someone who will bend the rules.
Many retail glass shops will not repair windshields or deny that they do.
It's not because of the integrity of the repair but because many states now
have a no deductible insurance on windshield glass so it is more profitable
to sell windshields.
Check with a car dealer or a fleet operator who is self insured. I am sure he
will have someone he uses. All these guys are mobile services operating out
of unmarked vans and many also repair cigarette burns in upholstery and
perform small paint touchup.
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Former Fleet Manager
> ,
>
> I4m looking for a windscreen repair kit I saw advertised some time ago
> in one of the UK or US classic car mags.
>
> Something about a vacuum pump and some fluid to fill the chip in the
> screen.
>
> Anybody know where to get it or what the name of the product is? Or even
> better has someone used it and can advise whether to use it or not?
>
> Thanks,
> Tim Campe
>
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 21:19:17 -0800
Subject: Re: Looking for windscreen rapair kit
I would think that most auto parts stores would carry this but if not, JC
Whitney has them in their catalog. Two different types with prices of $7.98
and $15.98. Check the web site at http://www.jcwhitney.com Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "TC" <tm-c@gmx.net>
To: "Healey Chat" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Healey List"
<majordomo@autox.team.net>; <healeys-owner@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2000 11:45 AM
Subject: Looking for windscreen rapair kit
>
> Hi,
>
> I4m looking for a windscreen repair kit I saw advertised some time ago
> in one of the UK or US classic car mags.
>
> Something about a vacuum pump and some fluid to fill the chip in the
> screen.
>
> Anybody know where to get it or what the name of the product is? Or even
> better has someone used it and can advise whether to use it or not?
>
> Thanks,
> Tim Campe
> 467 BJ8
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 09:32:01 EST
Subject: South East Classic
Anyone have the dates for the 2001 Southeast Classic for Nashville?
Working on next years calendar of events.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 10:26:52 EST
Subject: Re: hardtop window. sealant?
In a message dated 12/30/2000 4:37:03 PM Mountain Standard Time,
costan0@attglobal.net writes:
<< Do any of you apply any sealant into the
rubber groove after the window is in place. >>
I don't use any sealant. I cut the rubber carefully so that:
1) the mitre joint is tight, especially from the groove down
and
2) a tad long, so htat athe ends of the joint are "jammed" against each
other, making it tight and likely to stay that way over time.
Roger
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 11:20:52 EST
Subject: Re: South East Classic
In a message dated 12/31/2000 08:33:54 Central Standard Time,
Jwhlyadv@aol.com writes:
<< Anyone have the dates for the 2001 Southeast Classic for Nashville? >>
Sept. 13-16, 2001
Going to be a good one. To be held in Lynchburg,Tenn. home of Jack Daniel's
distillery.
Don't come unless you want to have a great time and lots of fun. Robie Cook
and the Middle Tenn. AHC have some great stuff planned for us.
See you all there!
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
From jbpate at attglobal.net
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 12:59:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Fw: Restore or Sell
I will relate my own recent experience. I have owned my car since 1969. It is a
late 1967. It sat in my garage, covered for 20 years, and was not running. I
finally decided to restore it when I turned 50, 4 years ago. I had it taken to a
guy who can do all the welding, etc, it needed. This car was basically complete
with all the little parts still there. I was offerred $10k by the first guy that
saw it while it was sitting there before the start of the restoration. I figured
I would put $10-12k into it and it would take about 1 or 2 years. Well it is now
3 1/2 years, and about $15k later. I will probably put another $5k in it before
done. The moral of the story is: I might have been better off selling it at $10k
and buying a nice restoration for about $25-30k and I could have been driving it
for 3 years.I would have come out about even. However, that car has a lot of
personal sentimental value (I bought it after a Navy cruise to Viet Nam), and
for that reason, I am happy that I have restored the car that I have owned for
that period of time. Otherwise, I would have been better off buying a restored
car from the gitgo. I would also state that I have enjoyed the restoration
process itself as I have been involved in a lot of the work myself. Barry Pate
J_L_Sims wrote:
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims@email.msn.com>
> To: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2000 2:26 PM
> Subject: Re: Restore or Sell
>
> > I'll second what Gary says. I gave up a Healey 30 years ago when I started
> a
> > family. Mistake number one. About 20 years ago, I gave up another one
> > because I thought that it would be too costly to restore. Mistake number
> > two. My BN6 is going into the ground with me. If there is enough room left
> > over for my wife when it is her time all the better.
> >
> > John Sims, BN6
> > Aberdeen, NJ
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> > Cc: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2000 12:22 PM
> > Subject: Restore or Sell
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Someone suggested just keeping the car. Thought I'd pencil out some
> > numbers,
> > > as they say. Assume you can sell an unassembled but ready project car
> for
> > > $15,000 (I think that's as far as anyone would go.) Assume you need the
> > > money for the kids right now. If you were to borrow the money on a home
> > > equity loan (tax deductible, 10 percent interest), you'd be paying an
> > > average, say, $700 a year interest expense over ten years. So to avoid
> an
> > > outlay of $7000 spread over ten years, you're giving up a Healey that
> > you've
> > > already invested a lot of your soul into. Sure you won't have much time
> > for
> > > the next two years to work on the car, but eventually you'll be able to
> > put
> > > it together.
> > >
> > > As they might say in the credit card ad, "cost of the car: priceless."
> > >
> > > There are lots of personal circumstances involved in one of these
> > decisions,
> > > I realize. But I haven't met a person yet who said "I used to own one of
> > > those, but I gave it up when the kids came, and boy, am I glad that I
> > did."
> > >
> > > All the best to you and your wife for two healthy births and lots of joy
> > with
> > > the kids in the coming years.
> > >
> > > Cheers
> > > Gary Anderson
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 13:07:26 EST
Subject: Intake manifold
Listers,
I have the engine apart now, and I was wondering what the intake manifold on
my BJ8 should look like. It is alloy, and I was wondering if this should be
painted. There was no paint to speak of on it, so shoul this remain silver?
Curious.
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 13:53:47 -0500
Subject: Update on high rpm running
Hello Listers,
Not long ago I posted a situation with the BN7 wherein it was popping,
backfiring, coughing, spitting, and such when you mashed it to the floor. At
constant rpms it ran great. Got several replies from the list and thanks for
those! Also a mechanic friend suggested some things.
Well, I found a couple things. Seems that a while back when replacing a wire
in the distributor that I got a couple of screws switched. The short one for
mounting the condenser wound up mounting the back plate and the back plate
screw mounting the condenser. (Senior moment) This longer screws binds the
top plate against the back plate not allowing any advance under acceleration.
Also found that the vacuum advance unit did not work. Perhaps a result of the
above? Fortunately had one on had that did work and replaced. I now have a
working system. However, on the road test there was still the same symptoms
mentioned above!
Thought I would try swapping coils. Road test, and car ran fine. Just for
grins decided to check the old coil again - car ran fine! What is going on
here??????? Not sure but would not surprise me that if I went out right now
it would run poorly again!
Also, was advised to check the slack in the timng chain. Found that when
reversing the direction of rotation of the crank that there was 3/4 inch
travel of the timing mark before any motion in the rotor button. Is this
excessive? Is this a possible cause of my woes?
Should I do a valve adjustment?
Any thoughts out there?
Keith Pennell
BJ8 BN7
From James A Baustian <jabaustian at networksplus.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 13:40:28 -0600
Subject: 100 M Pricing
Randy Hicks
I have some research articles prepared by the Austin-Healey Club, Northern
Center, England which were reprinted by an Austin-Healey club in the U.S.
over 20 years ago on the topic of the 100M. A great deal of information is
included including pricing on an item by item basis. Copies can be made and
sent if you would like to have them. This method is suggested as it appears
to be too lengthy to display on this list.
Jim Baustian
BN1
AN7
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 20:12:29 EST
Subject: Re: Happy New Year
Listers
The hour has not yet arrived here but I wanted to wish all of you a healthy
and happy new year. All the best.........
Aloha
Perry
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