I hate to jump in late on this.... but I finally couldn't take any more....
There is ZERO Hp in Spark plug wires..... They work or they Don't...
PERIOD..... There are favorites.... and I of course have mine... and Yeah
it's a Bumble bee..... but it's about looks not quality....
Spark Plugs.... Well when you get to the 14.5-1 ratio's of race motors...
you can get fancy... till then run a spark plug.... you know the one that
the Wire fits on to....Sorry no Performance advantage.... Fouling Plugs?
Fix your Carb's or rings or valve seals as the case maybe... Don't Blame the
Spark Plug.
You want the car to run better? Stick in an electronic ignition.... of your
choice... Personally I like the Pertronic...... on a Dyno with a Blower
motor running the Highest Tech MSD the Pertronic made exactly 3 less HP....
Fair enough....
Don't mean to be short.... Just mean to be honest.... In my Business I have
an Old Fork lift with a Continental Y112 flat head.... Stuck that Pertronic
in and the damn thing has been Great ever since... for real... neat deal....
Keith Turk..... 100 bugeye and to many damn Box Sprites.... oh and that
So Al Special.... C Fuel Altered Camaro.... Land speed Racer
From "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 06:35:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wire/Plugs
I wanted to comment on "They [spark plug wires] work or they Don't"
I wonder why mechanics check resistance on spark plug wires. Those fancy
oscilloscopes show resistance for each wire. When a wire is failing, various
levels of resistance is measured. The higher the resistance, the greater
then need to replace the wire.
Would a corroded wire cause additional resistance and would that resistance
impair the ability of the plug to fire or not fire? I would think that a
corroded wire would cause a wire to work a percentage of the time. So
therefore plug wires may intermittently fail and that the failure might be
aggravated by weather and temperature conditions.
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 09:09:57 -0400
Subject: Spark Plug Wires
Hi Gang:
Looks like I started something on this topic. Let me bring you all up to
date.
One member of the list recommended that I take a screwdrive and attach a
grounding wire to it and the other end to the block, then pass the
screwdriver over the wires and look for sparks. I did that.
That little black "thingy" in the middle of the coil wire was arcing like
crazy. Is that damned thing necessary or is that a resistor to keep the
radio from squawking? I vaguely remember putting it on there about 26 years
ago but I don't remember why. (Oldtimers disease).
Help!]
Don
BN7
From Jhayspu at aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 10:12:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wire/Plugs
There is truth on both sides: It is true that there is no ADDITIONAL horse
power in spark plug wires; it is also true that corroded, poorly constructed
plug wires can REDUCE the potential horse power of the engine. You are both
right. Good looking, politically correct, carefully assembled bumble bee
wires are, therefore, a good choice.
IMHO
Jerry
BT7
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 09:19:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wire/Plugs
If your Wires cost $100 dollars a set then you really need to evalutate the
quality after an extended Period of driving or years ( you can do that with
an ohm meter)...... Guys these things don't get 100,000 miles a year.... or
at least mine don't.... So..... Once every Ten Years replace them if you
think they cause you even the slightest trouble..... I absolutely Maintain
that in our environment where are cars are Just Too special to be treated
like a Stock Pick up.... You change the wires and Move on!!!!! What are we
talking here 20 bucks?
It's about the same as the Synthetic Oil I use in the Race car.... One Meet
and it is changed and I send it to the recyclers..... Sure it's 5 bucks a
quart... but it is still the cheapest insurance I can buy for an expensive
motor.
Didn't mean for that first post to sound Caustic.... I just thought it was
silly to play around with something that really doesn't matter.... My Engine
Management specialist has had wins at several different venues ( Le Mans,
Daytona, ect.) and we had this conversation Two Weeks ago....He Dynoed
several different sets of Plug wires from the 10.2mm ones I use on the Hot
Rod to the stock Napa stores cheapy's and he said he couldn't find a single
Hp to be had.....( this of course after I had spend the Bazzilion dollars to
have what I thought were the Best) I am simply passing along my
experience...
Keith Turk....( nope some lessons ain't Cheap )
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 10:31:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wire
In a message dated 06/30/2000 9:04:39 PM Central Daylight Time,
magicare@home.com writes:
<< With all due respect to the exalted Champion Spark Plug Company >>
Not from me, Mike. On an average I found one in four failing!!
<<we have had
much better success with NGK plugs. BP5ES. >>
YEP!! Haven't used anythin else in over 10 years.
Cheers............
ED
Ed Kaler, Proprietor
" Just Brits "
Hinsdale, IL
From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 10:38:31 EDT
Subject: AH collection
FOR SALE: 1967 BJ8 frame-up restoration, 1961 BT7 unrestored, BN1
engine, various body and drivetrain parts.
Bill Huck, St.Paul 651 426-2545 or billhuck@aol.com
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 09:43:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wire
Interesting side thought.... I run a set of Start up Plugs before we make a
pass we swap in the Race Plugs.... anyway Last week I decided to clean the
start up's with a Spark Plug Cleaner ( little bag sand blaster model which
uses compressed air ) anyway after I started the motor I was checking the
start up plugs and imbedded into the lower portions were all these bits of
Silica... Made my mind up right there that if it would sand Blast a Plug and
drop out later in the motor I didn't want to do that again..... Can't tell
you how many times I have used that thing.... Just never looked at a Plug
under a Magnifying glass afterwards...
Keith
From "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 09:38:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wire/Plugs
Hi Keith:
I'm glad you're back, for a moment there I was thinking that somebody else
was using your userid. As I have mentioned in one of my previous notes, I
always look forward to the science that you share with us.
>From my original reply you must have thought that I was proclaiming that
bumblebee wire would enhance the performance of a Austin A90 engine to a
level exceeding the performance of a 400 cid Chevy. (good grief). In reality
I understand that plug wires should be replaced more than once every 15
years, even if the car only acquired 3000 miles during that period of time.
Some silly 1/4 miler just got in the way of my road test.
Also in reality any respectable 400cid Chevy 1/4 miler should keep their
contests limited to street racing and leave the Big Healeys alone at speed.
Unless they have discovered the magic/science of overdrive and in that case
any Healey should cower in the most remote corner of the garage.
The road test was conducted on Highway 23, which as you might know, is
dedicated as the "Military Intelligence Highway". This is a fitting name for
the highway leading to the Ronald Reagan Presidential Library.
So any 1/4 miler driven by a military veteran REALLY should not choose that
contest on that highway, especially when the Big Healey is noticing the 1/4
miler from the Healey rear view mirror. This is an age old story, as old as
Healeys and 1/4 milers . . . .
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M (who continues to use Cory's userid)
From "John Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 11:47:18 -0700
Subject: ID Plate
Can someone give me the telephone number and E-Mail address for Clarke
Spares.
I need to get a new ID plate from them.
John Sims, BN6
Las Vegas
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 18:59:05 -0400
Subject: Re: ID Plate
Yeah, John, I just gave that to someone else this morning.
Clarke Spares & Restorations
90 W. Swamp Road
Doylestown, PA 18901
(215) 348-0595
fax: (215) 348-4160
Don't know if they have an e-mail address or website. Also don't know if
they have the plates, or just stamp them. I bought my new blank VIN plate
from the UK Healey Centre, and had Clarke stamp it like the original.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 17:34:08 -0700
Subject: Choke Cable
I am trying to locate an original type choke cable for a tri-carb 3000.
The original cable has a multiple wire core (cable) in a housing (shield)
which is approximately 51" long from the back of the instrument panel to
the fixture on the manifold linkage. This is longer than that of a 2 carb
engine.
Have tried the usual sources (Bolton, Hemphill), but all they have is a
cable that is one solid spring steel wire.
New Old Stock would be great, or a used cable with a knob that is
restorable would work, as long as the knob is not so far gone that I can't
polish it and repaint the "C".
Does anyone know of a source, or have such a cable?
John Snyder
'60 BT7
'61 BN7 MK2
'62 BT7 MK2
From "Brian Peters" <lotus at inetworld.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 19:01:48 -0700
Subject: original colors
Can anyone tell me how to find what the original colors were on my '60
BT7?
Thanks,
Brian
'60 BT7
La Mesa, CA
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 06:38:01 -0400
Subject: Re: RX shocks
Mike:
Did you get any response on your RX shocks question? I have the same shocks
on my bn1. I believe someone on the list said they thought they were used
on the 100m's.
lance
54 bn1
----- Original Message -----
From: Krazy Kiwi <magicare@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 9:24 PM
Subject: RX shocks
>
>
> My turn for a question,
>
> I found a pair of Healey front shocks in our pile of cores with RX cast
> on the side in letters about 1" high.
> These are the same as the ones on the front of my 100S.
> Anyone know what RX stands for?
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 19:57:54 +0800
Subject: BT7 assembly - More holes
Hi all
Still getting replies from the list on my previous questions. This is a
great source of knowledge.
Here's another couple.
1. Where my battery cable goes through the vertical bulkhead at the front
of the boot area there are three holes. Two are of a sufficient size to
take the cable and the other is only about 5/16". What happens here? My BT7
is a very early model.
2. Where the wiring harness goes through the same rear bulkhead on the
LHS of the car again there is an extra hole about 5/16". Does the fuel
tank sender wire, which at this point on the wiring harness is a separate
wire, go through the same hole as the main wiring harness or through
this smaller hole? There is something in my parts manual that infers this is
the case.
3. On the same hole. Does the wire to the battery cut off switch go
through the same hole as the main harness or does it go by another route?\
Anybody who can throw some light on these questions will be very much
appreciated.
I an trying to get this car as near concourse as possible then I will drive
it like it was meant to be driven.
TIA
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in assembly
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 20:05:38 +0800
Subject: BT7 assembly - More holes **** OOPS
Oops
Looks like I can't even get the spelling right.
Hope the editor didn't see this.
Hi all
Still getting replies from the list on my previous questions. This is a
great source of knowledge.
Here's another couple.
1. Where my battery cable goes through the vertical bulkhead at the front
of the boot area there are three holes. Two are of a sufficient size to
take the cable and the other is only about 5/16". What happens here? My BT7
is a very early model.
2. Where the wiring harness goes through the same rear bulkhead on the
LHS of the car again there is an extra hole about 5/16". Does the fuel
tank sender wire, which at this point on the wiring harness is a separate
wire, go through the same hole as the main wiring harness or through
this smaller hole? There is something in my parts manual that infers this is
the case.
3. On the same hole. Does the wire to the battery cut off switch go
through the same hole as the main harness or does it go by another route?\
Anybody who can throw some light on these questions will be very much
appreciated.
I an trying to get this car as near concours as possible then I will drive
it like it was meant to be driven.
TIA
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in assembly
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 08:34:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Choke Cable
John
I wasn't aware that the original cable was as youdescribe (mine being
missing when I restored my BT7 TriCarb) so I adapted/used a bicycle
brake cable - whichis exactly as you described.
Should be available at any KMart or bike shop. Your old knob will
easily attach.
DickB
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 08:43:59 -0600
Subject: Fw: Thank You
Since it's kinda quiet today. Here's a political joke..
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Subject: Thank You
>
> > Dear Mr. President:
> >
> > I recently saw a bumper sticker that said, "Thank me, I
> > voted for Clinton-Gore." So, I sat down and reflected on
> > that and I am sending my "Thank you" for what you have
> > done, specifically:
> >
> > 1. Thank you for introducing us to Jennifer Flowers,
> > Paula Jones, Monica Lewinsky, Dolly Kyle Browning,
> > Kathleen Willey, and Juanita Broaddrick.
> Are
> > there any others that we should know about?
> >
> > 2. Thank you for teaching my 8 year old about oral sex.
> > I had really planned to wait until he was about 10 or so
> > to discuss it with him, but
> now
> > he knows more about it than I did as a senior in college.
> >
> > 3. Thank you for showing us that sexual harassment in the
> > work place (especially the White House) and on the job is
> > OK, and all you have to
> know
> > is what the meaning of "IS" is. It really is great to
> > know that certain sexual acts are not sex and one person
> > may have sex while the other one involved does NOT have
> > sex.
> >
> > 4. Thank you for reintroducing the concept of impeachment
> > to a new generation and demonstrating that the ridiculous
> > plot of the movie "Wag
> The
> > Dog" could be plausible after all.
> >
> > 5. Thanks for making Jimmy Carter look competent, Gerald
> > Ford look graceful, Richard Nixon look honest, Lyndon
> > Johnson look truthful, and
> John
> > Kennedy look moral.
> >
> > 6. Thank you for the 72 House and Senate witnesses who
> > have pled the 5th Amendment and 17 witnesses who have fled
> > the country to avoid testifying about Democrat campaign
> > fund raising.
> >
> > 7. Thank you for the 19 charges, 8 convictions, and 4
> > imprisonments from the Whitewater "mess" and the 55
> > criminal charges and 32 criminal convictions (so far) in
> > the other "Clinton" scandals.
> >
> > 8. Thanks also for reducing our military by half,
> > "gutting" much of our foreign policy, and flying all over
> > the world on "vacations" carefully disguised as necessary
> > trips. Please give my regards to Hillary, when/if you see
> > her. Tell her I'm working on a "Thank You" letter for
> > her.
>
>
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 11:17:44 EDT
Subject: OD Solenoid Operation and Adjustment
OK, its a five-day weekend for me, so I decided to fix one of the fixes done
to my car in the past. I had my transmission rebuilt last year, and my
mechanic decided that he would do me the "Favor" of adjusting my OD to
"Factory specifications." I was working fine before. Well it does not
engage anymore and he told me that if it doesn't work, all I have to do is
open the solenoid case on the side of the transmission and adjust the lever.
(He also told me to bring the car by if I ran into trouble.)
Well the thing is open, but there is nothing in any of the shop manuals I
have which tells me how to adjust the setting. The lever looks like it
clamps to the shaft, and the solenoid pulls this up. Is this as simple as
unclamping the lever and then re-clamping so as to provide a greater pull
with the solenoid?
How do you adjust this?
Thanks for any help.
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From "Russ & Natalie Bamsey" <ia549 at worldchat.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 11:37:49 -0400
Subject: Re: RX shocks
Hello Lance, Mike and Listers;
I rebuilt a pair of "RX" shocks last year for a customer with an
early BN1. These were identical internally as any other Armstrong shock.
Is it possible they are early production and not just 100M?
Russ Bamsey
----- Original Message -----
From: Lance Werner <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: Krazy Kiwi <magicare@home.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2000 6:38 AM
Subject: Re: RX shocks
>
> Mike:
> Did you get any response on your RX shocks question? I have the same
shocks
> on my bn1. I believe someone on the list said they thought they were used
> on the 100m's.
> lance
> 54 bn1
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Krazy Kiwi <magicare@home.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 9:24 PM
> Subject: RX shocks
>
>
> >
> >
> > My turn for a question,
> >
> > I found a pair of Healey front shocks in our pile of cores with RX cast
> > on the side in letters about 1" high.
> > These are the same as the ones on the front of my 100S.
> > Anyone know what RX stands for?
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Mike Salter
> > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >
> >
> >
>
From "KIRK KVAM" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 10:02:54 -0700
Subject: DMH, July 3, 1898 !!!! (102 years)
On July 3, 1898, Donald Mitchell Healey, C.B.E. was born.
(Commander of the British Empire)
Tomorrow, (Monday) July 3, 2000 is the 102nd anniversary of his birth.
In celebration of this event in history, we all should dip
our British and or National Flags if we have them.
Start our (Austin) Engines, Honk our (Lucas) Horns, and Drive our
(Donald Healey) Cars in his honor, and to the survivors of his family who
still honor us, his fans.
(Lest we forget, if not for his family, DMH would not have become who he is)
Just think for a moment ----- where would we all be today if not for
DONALD MITCHELL HEALEY C.B.E.
CHEERS TO YOU DONALD,
YOU'LL ALWAYS HAVE MY VOTE
Kirk Kvam
62BT7#3
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 13:12:32 -0400
Subject: Re: OD Solenoid Operation and Adjustment
Hi, Tim --
The shaft (cross shaft) that the solenoid lever is clamped to runs through
the O/D to the other side of the case. On this side, there is a small lever
with a 3/16" (4.7mm) hole in it clamped to the cross shaft. This hole
will line up with a similar 3/16" hole in the O/D case.
Insert a 3/16 drill bit through the lever and into the hole in the case to
line up the two holes, and leave it there.
Unclamp the solenoid lever from the shaft.
To set proper shaft end float, (0.008 to 0.010"), put a feeler gage of this
thickness between the lever with a hole in it and the O/D case. Push the
shaft/lever up snug against the feeler gage.
Connect the battery: + (positive ground) to gearbox, - to one side of the
gearshift switch.
Operate the solenoid by putting the gearshift lever into 3rd or 4th gear.
Ensure the solenoid plunger moves through its full stroke.
With the solenoid energized, hold the solenoid lever snugly against the case
and lightly against the bottom shoulder of the plunger and tighten the lever
clamping bolt.
De-energize the solenoid.
Remove the feeler gage and drill bit and check for proper end float of the
O/D cross shaft using the feeler gage.
If this is set up correctly, when the solenoid energizes, it will cause the
O/D metering pin to lift its ball 1/32" (0.03125") off its seat., and the
3/16 holes in the lever and case will line up. To test this, insert the
drill bit again.
I did this adjustment with the O/D out of the car, and used a dial indicator
to measure the proper lift of the ball.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: Healybj8@aol.com <Healybj8@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, July 02, 2000 11:26 AM
Subject: OD Solenoid Operation and Adjustment
>
>OK, its a five-day weekend for me, so I decided to fix one of the fixes
done
>to my car in the past. I had my transmission rebuilt last year, and my
>mechanic decided that he would do me the "Favor" of adjusting my OD to
>"Factory specifications." I was working fine before. Well it does not
>engage anymore and he told me that if it doesn't work, all I have to do is
>open the solenoid case on the side of the transmission and adjust the
lever.
>(He also told me to bring the car by if I ran into trouble.)
>
>Well the thing is open, but there is nothing in any of the shop manuals I
>have which tells me how to adjust the setting. The lever looks like it
>clamps to the shaft, and the solenoid pulls this up. Is this as simple as
>unclamping the lever and then re-clamping so as to provide a greater pull
>with the solenoid?
>
>How do you adjust this?
>
>Thanks for any help.
>
>Tim Wallace
>'67 BJ8
>Fuquay-Varina, NC
>
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 15:24:28 EDT
Subject: Re: OD Solenoid Operation and Adjustment
Hooray! My OD is working again AND it was relatively painless! Thanks to
everyone who helped me out. Once I figured out what to do it took about 5
minutes to have the old thing working like it used to. :o)
Tim
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 19:59:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Fw: Thank You
Next time try to restrain yourself Dave.
I come to this List looking for a respite from this sort of Wing-Nut Crap.
It's not Political and it sure ain't Funny. It's just stupid and mean.
If I want to GoTo FreeRepublic.com I know how.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Since it's kinda quiet today. Here's a political joke..
>
> Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> 59 AH :{) 54 BN1
>
> Subject: Thank You
>
>
> >
> > > Dear Mr. President:
> > >
> > > I recently saw a bumper sticker that said, "Thank me, I
> > > voted for Clinton-Gore." So, I sat down and reflected on
> > > that and I am sending my "Thank you" for what you have
> > > done, specifically:
> > >
> > > 1. Thank you for introducing us to Jennifer Flowers,
> > > Paula Jones, Monica Lewinsky, Dolly Kyle Browning,
> > > Kathleen Willey, and Juanita Broaddrick.
> > Are
> > > there any others that we should know about?
> > >
> > > 2. Thank you for teaching my 8 year old about oral sex.
> > > I had really planned to wait until he was about 10 or so
> > > to discuss it with him, but
> > now
> > > he knows more about it than I did as a senior in college.
> > >
> > > 3. Thank you for showing us that sexual harassment in the
> > > work place (especially the White House) and on the job is
> > > OK, and all you have to
> > know
> > > is what the meaning of "IS" is. It really is great to
> > > know that certain sexual acts are not sex and one person
> > > may have sex while the other one involved does NOT have
> > > sex.
> > >
> > > 4. Thank you for reintroducing the concept of impeachment
> > > to a new generation and demonstrating that the ridiculous
> > > plot of the movie "Wag
> > The
> > > Dog" could be plausible after all.
> > >
> > > 5. Thanks for making Jimmy Carter look competent, Gerald
> > > Ford look graceful, Richard Nixon look honest, Lyndon
> > > Johnson look truthful, and
> > John
> > > Kennedy look moral.
> > >
> > > 6. Thank you for the 72 House and Senate witnesses who
> > > have pled the 5th Amendment and 17 witnesses who have fled
> > > the country to avoid testifying about Democrat campaign
> > > fund raising.
> > >
> > > 7. Thank you for the 19 charges, 8 convictions, and 4
> > > imprisonments from the Whitewater "mess" and the 55
> > > criminal charges and 32 criminal convictions (so far) in
> > > the other "Clinton" scandals.
> > >
> > > 8. Thanks also for reducing our military by half,
> > > "gutting" much of our foreign policy, and flying all over
> > > the world on "vacations" carefully disguised as necessary
> > > trips. Please give my regards to Hillary, when/if you see
> > > her. Tell her I'm working on a "Thank You" letter for
> > > her.
> >
> >
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 17:26:21 -0700
Subject: Electronic ignition.....
While we were on the topic of electronic ignition....what do you suppose the
h.p. increase would be with a Pertronix Ignitor installed on a 3000? Or is
it just smooth running and reliability we end up with?...Neil
From "Stephen Graham" <spgraham at iquest.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 20:17:04 -0700
Subject: White Smoke
Good morning all. I have just finished 6 month put it back together project
and just got the 61 BT 7 started this morning.
I seem to be blowing a lot of white smoke. I took of the cover and saw that
more oil than I expected was shooting out from the rockers, and so much so
it quickly ran over.
Do you think this could be the problem of the white smoke?
thanks all
Stephen
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 21:58:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wire
Wehave this wire available is bulk or we can make a plug wire set up with new
terminsls
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 22:04:26 EDT
Subject: Re: 100/4 head needed
We have several ways of repairing the cracks in the cylinder head of a Healey
100. But I would say that the best way to go is to use an aluminium head you
will get improved sooling and better performanc e from the engine because of
better breathing . I would also recomend installing a set of headders with
the aluminium head to get the peak performance.
We also have a few original 100 heads left
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 21:01:04 -0500
Subject: Re: White Smoke
Nope.... White smoke is Water in the chamber.... Blue is Oil...
the fact that you have a ton in the Rocker is Good.... means you have great
Oil Pressure....
Do this.... Pull the Plugs and look and see if you don't have Two Real Clean
ones.... Water is a Great Cleaner.... you can also do a compression check to
see which cylinder it is.... In my expereince It has always been a Head
Gasket... well almost always... once I cracked a Block when I beat the head
off of it.... but that took major work....
Keith
----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen Graham <spgraham@iquest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2000 10:17 PM
Subject: White Smoke
>
> Good morning all. I have just finished 6 month put it back together
project
> and just got the 61 BT 7 started this morning.
>
> I seem to be blowing a lot of white smoke. I took of the cover and saw
that
> more oil than I expected was shooting out from the rockers, and so much so
> it quickly ran over.
>
> Do you think this could be the problem of the white smoke?
>
> thanks all
>
> Stephen
>
>
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 13:32:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wire/Plugs
I am Always here..... I get Preoccupied sometimes and don't read all the
Posts... but Healey's will always be my First Love...
Want to hear something neat... I know some of the People that met Donald
Healey on the Salt in the 50's.... these guys still race.... Oh and they
remember all the attempts at Speed.... Keep in Mind Donald Healey was one of
the First 20 folks in the Two Club at Bville.... That was heady stuff in
those days... and the first with a 6 cylinder.... Keith
----- Original Message -----
From: Cory LeBlanc <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: Jim LeBlanc <jim_leblanc@yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2000 11:38 AM
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wire/Plugs
>
> Hi Keith:
>
> I'm glad you're back, for a moment there I was thinking that somebody else
> was using your userid. As I have mentioned in one of my previous notes, I
> always look forward to the science that you share with us.
From "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 20:00:28 -0700
Subject: Re: White Smoke
Hi Stephen:
Healeys are infamous for problems with the rocker arm.
Did you replace the rocker arm shaft and rebush the rocker arms? If not
then the extra oil is likely to be spewing forth from the rocker arms. Now
if you did a valve job, you will have noted that the valves do not have a
very good oil seal. The oil seal is a rubber seal around the top of the
valve. So extra oil spewing from the rocker arm shaft will send too much
oil down the valve stems. Oil flowing down the valve stem causes oil in the
cylinders. When oil burns smoke follows.
That condition will cause plenty of exhaust smoke.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen Graham <spgraham@iquest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2000 8:17 PM
Subject: White Smoke
>
> Good morning all. I have just finished 6 month put it back together
project
> and just got the 61 BT 7 started this morning.
>
> I seem to be blowing a lot of white smoke. I took of the cover and saw
that
> more oil than I expected was shooting out from the rockers, and so much so
> it quickly ran over.
>
> Do you think this could be the problem of the white smoke?
>
> thanks all
>
> Stephen
>
>
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 00:21:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: White Smoke
I*n the past five years I would estimate I have replaced my front sway-bar
links about five times - usually one at a time.
I used to use Moss and VB links and standard bushings but a couple of years ago
I switched to eurethane bushings.
Once or twice I know that I hit a concrete parking lot barrier by driving to
close to it, but more recently they seem to break via just driving.
The last two pairs were of my own manufacture, using 3/8 threaded rod and
stainless tubing for a spacer.
Do you suppose this is due to the use of the non-compressable bushings or what?
Any suggestions - including that it is Normal after hard driving - will be
appreciated.
Thanks in advance
DickB '62 BT7 Tri-Carb
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 21:03:47 -0400
Subject: Re: OD Solenoid Operation and Adjustment
Tim,
The BMC shop manual has a good description of how to do this
on page G.7. Here is a summary:
1. On the right hand side of the overdrive unit locate the valve
setting lever. It has a 3/16" diameter hole in the end of it
which should line up with a corresponding hole in the overdrive
casing when the solenoid is engaged.
2. Loosen the pinch clamp on the operating lever (left side of
the overdrive).
3. Rotate the setting lever until the hole in the end lines up
with the hole in the side of the overdrive casing and insert
a 3/16" rod (the back end of a 3/16" drill bit works well
for this purpose) through both holes to hold the lever in that
position.
4. Apply voltage to the solenoid.
5. Gently push down on the operating lever until it rests against
the bottom shoulder of the solenoid plunger.
6. With a feeler guage, verify that there is .008-.010" of end float
on the cross shaft.
7. Tighten the operating lever pinch bolt.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB
----- Original Message -----
From: <Healybj8@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2000 11:17 AM
Subject: OD Solenoid Operation and Adjustment
>
> OK, its a five-day weekend for me, so I decided to fix one of the fixes
done
> to my car in the past. I had my transmission rebuilt last year, and my
> mechanic decided that he would do me the "Favor" of adjusting my OD to
> "Factory specifications." I was working fine before. Well it does not
> engage anymore and he told me that if it doesn't work, all I have to do is
> open the solenoid case on the side of the transmission and adjust the
lever.
> (He also told me to bring the car by if I ran into trouble.)
>
> Well the thing is open, but there is nothing in any of the shop manuals I
> have which tells me how to adjust the setting. The lever looks like it
> clamps to the shaft, and the solenoid pulls this up. Is this as simple as
> unclamping the lever and then re-clamping so as to provide a greater pull
> with the solenoid?
>
> How do you adjust this?
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> Tim Wallace
> '67 BJ8
> Fuquay-Varina, NC
>
From Allen Edwards <allene at ispchannel.com>
Date: Sun, 02 Jul 2000 10:14:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Styling for the Austin Healey
Was out for a drive yesterday in my '54 100 and say a '54 Corvette by
the side of the road. It didn't look much like mine and was the same
age so not too sure about this copy thing. Just nice to know that mine
was the one running.
Allen
BN1
Don Yarber wrote:
>
> I guess that the young people didn't know that General Motors "copied" the
> Austin Healey for the first Corvette body style.
From Allen Edwards <allene at ispchannel.com>
Date: Sun, 02 Jul 2000 23:34:20 -0700
Subject: My 3 speed is now a 2 speed :(
I guess it is too much to ask to go for two rides in one day. Now I
have this terrible noise and rattle in second gear. I just know that a
tooth is missing on something on my early BN1 3 speed. I notice that
all the relevant gears say NA in the Moss Motors catalog. Anyone know
what a fellow is to do in a case like this. I don't have the thing
apart so don't yet know exactly the parts I need, but I do know I don't
know where to get them. Anyone on the list know what to do in a case
like this?
Allen
'54 BN1
From njones at amadeus.net
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 09:20:09 +0100
Subject: Spark Plugs..cont..
From: Nick Jones@AMAWORLD on 03/07/2000 09:20 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
cc:
Subject: Spark Plugs..cont..
I agree with Mike Salter about the NGK plugs ..they are much better than
Champion.
I run an Ali head on my BN7 and had to replace my champion N9Ys because they had
overheatd after 1400miles.
Currently running Bosch Super Green-Copper Cored- W7DC plugs..more expensive but
worth it..
My 2 pfenigs worth...
Nick Jones,Munich,Germany
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at go.com>
Date: Mon, 03 Jul 2000 02:26:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Need Help with Brakes in northern Indiana (was
Can someone give Steve a hand? Please reply directly to him. Thanks.
Cheers,
Reid
http://www.healey.org
-----Original Message-----
From: "Steve Henderson"<schenderson@kconline.com>
To: reidt@healey.org
Date: Sat Jul 01 21:23:35 PDT 2000
Subject: Austin-Healey Question
>Dear Mr. Trummel:
>
>I am writing on behalf of a relative who owns an Austin-Healey BJ8
>automobile, but does not have internet access. He lives in Wabash,
>Indiana, and needs to find someone in this area to work on the brakes of
>his car. I found your club's site on the internet, and wondered whether
>you, or perhaps someone else in your organization, might know who in
>northern Indiana would be qualified to work on this car.
>
>Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Steve Henderson
___________________________________________________
GO Network Mail
Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com
From njones at amadeus.net
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 15:47:00 +0100
Subject: Identify this fuel pump..
From: Nick Jones@AMAWORLD on 03/07/2000 03:47 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
cc:
Subject: Identify this fuel pump..
Te PO has fitted the following pump to my BN7.
STEWART WARNER
made in U.S.A.
It looks a substantial pump and works faultlessly.
Has anyone any idea what the pressure might be that it works at and its likely
age,also what kind of pump,pointless type or contact type.
Thanks
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 07:21:41 -0600
Subject: Re: Identify this fuel pump..
Could you please hold it up to your screen so that we may be better able to
identify the part for you and then tell you all about it? Thanks and a
happy Forth of July!
----- Original Message -----
From: <njones@amadeus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 03, 2000 8:47 AM
Subject: Identify this fuel pump..
>
>
>
> From: Nick Jones@AMAWORLD on 03/07/2000 03:47 PM
>
>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> cc:
> Subject: Identify this fuel pump..
>
>
>
> Te PO has fitted the following pump to my BN7.
>
> STEWART WARNER
> made in U.S.A.
>
> It looks a substantial pump and works faultlessly.
>
> Has anyone any idea what the pressure might be that it works at and its
likely
> age,also what kind of pump,pointless type or contact type.
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
>
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Jul 2000 07:25:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Spark Plugs..cont..
Nick,
You're BN7 wouldn't happen to be blue over blue in color would it?
Terry Blubaugh
njones@amadeus.net wrote:
> From: Nick Jones@AMAWORLD on 03/07/2000 09:20 AM
>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> cc:
> Subject: Spark Plugs..cont..
>
> I agree with Mike Salter about the NGK plugs ..they are much better than
> Champion.
>
> I run an Ali head on my BN7 and had to replace my champion N9Ys because they
>had
> overheatd after 1400miles.
>
> Currently running Bosch Super Green-Copper Cored- W7DC plugs..more expensive
>but
> worth it..
>
> My 2 pfenigs worth...
>
> Nick Jones,Munich,Germany
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 08:59:14 -0700
Subject: RE: BT7 assembly
block of wood for the tire strap?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: John Rowe [mailto:jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au]
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2000 5:45 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: BT7 assembly
Hi all
Some more dumb quetions from someone who is assembling as car dismantled by
the PO.
On the vertical panel behind the rear axle that forms the front of the boot
(trunk) there a two small weld nuts with 10/32 thread located a few inches
outside the fuel tank strap fixing. What goes there?
TIA
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in resto. Trying to fill in all the holes.
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 07:53:32 -0400
Subject: Re: My 3 speed is now a 2 speed :(
Allen,
Sports and Classics in Darien CT ( 203-655-8731)
has a decent collection of NOS gearbox parts. At least
he had 2nd and 3rd for my BJ7.
Normally, the way it works with him is that you call and ask
about the part and he will get back to you after he has
had a day or so to rumage about in his "inventory".
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB
----- Original Message -----
From: Allen Edwards <allene@ispchannel.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 03, 2000 2:34 AM
Subject: My 3 speed is now a 2 speed :(
>
>
> I guess it is too much to ask to go for two rides in one day. Now I
> have this terrible noise and rattle in second gear. I just know that a
> tooth is missing on something on my early BN1 3 speed. I notice that
> all the relevant gears say NA in the Moss Motors catalog. Anyone know
> what a fellow is to do in a case like this. I don't have the thing
> apart so don't yet know exactly the parts I need, but I do know I don't
> know where to get them. Anyone on the list know what to do in a case
> like this?
>
> Allen
>
> '54 BN1
>
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 14:58:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: <no subject>
Ronnie
Regarding worn-out bushings, they just crumble or tear like shock bushings, etc.
But in my case I notice it when I take a LOOK and see that the lower nut and
threaded end of the link are Gone as well as the lower bushing and washer.
Most recently, the entire leftside link assembly was gone - the lower end must
have broken off and the rest of it disassembled itself and went bye-bye -
denting the area below the left front turnsignal lamp in the process.
When you are running straight the swaybar has no effect - only when you are
cornering at some speed. It's purpose it to convert down force on the inside
front wheel into down-force (rather than UPforce) on the outside front wheel.
So you don't really notice it except as sloppy handling and maybe a clunk or
two.
DickB
---- you wrote:
> Just for my information -- undoubtely when those bushing need replacing,
> they need replacing. But what tips you off? Do you make a visual inspection?
> Or do you get the feeling they're broken, whatever, while driving? If it's
> the latter, can you describe how it feels? Thanks.
>
> ----------
> >From: dickb@cheerful.com
> >To: austin healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Date: Mon, Jul 3, 2000, 4:21 AM
> >
>
> >
> > I*n the past five years I would estimate I have replaced my front sway-bar
> > links about five times - usually one at a time.
> >
> > I used to use Moss and VB links and standard bushings but a couple of years
> > ago I switched to eurethane bushings.
> >
> > Once or twice I know that I hit a concrete parking lot barrier by driving
> > to close to it, but more recently they seem to break via just driving.
> >
> > The last two pairs were of my own manufacture, using 3/8 threaded rod and
> > stainless tubing for a spacer.
> >
> > Do you suppose this is due to the use of the non-compressable bushings or
> what?
> >
> > Any suggestions - including that it is Normal after hard driving - will be
> > appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks in advance
> >
> > DickB '62 BT7 Tri-Carb
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 17:20:19 EDT
Subject: Healey Blue help
Received this in response to my Bluegrass Club web Site today. My copy of Don
Pikovniks Guide to historic colors is out on loan, can anyone help Joe Coker
out? reply directly to cokeratty@jellico.com (Joe Coker)
Thanks,
Jim Werner
__________________________________________________________________
Dear Jim: I have a 1962 3000MKII which is being restored and am looking for
the original Healey Blue color code or a place to buy this paint, and would
appreciate this being posted on the member list with the request that anyone
having this information email back. Thanks for any help or suggestions. Joe
Coker
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 03 Jul 2000 16:08:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Blue help
Jim
Ice Blue Metallic, aka Healey Blue the ICI number is 2301M
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
BGAHC@aol.com wrote:
>
> Received this in response to my Bluegrass Club web Site today. My copy of Don
> Pikovniks Guide to historic colors is out on loan, can anyone help Joe Coker
> out? reply directly to cokeratty@jellico.com (Joe Coker)
> Thanks,
> Jim Werner
> __________________________________________________________________
> Dear Jim: I have a 1962 3000MKII which is being restored and am looking for
> the original Healey Blue color code or a place to buy this paint, and would
> appreciate this being posted on the member list with the request that anyone
> having this information email back. Thanks for any help or suggestions. Joe
> Coker
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 18:24:14 -0400
Subject: Overdrive Relay
Hi Gang:
It's me again. I started trouble shooting my overdrive per the instructions
I found in the Healey Archives (which BTW is a very complete and
understandable method for troubleshooting the electrical part of the o.d.)
I got 12 Volts on C1 like I was supposed to. I even had 12 Volts on C2 for
a while. Then....nothing.
According to the troubleshooting sheet if you don't have 12 Volts on C2 the
relay is bad.
So..being the adventurous chap that I am, I took the relay off, removed the
cover and found the points a little burnt. Not bad, but slightly burned. I
took a fingernail file and dressed them up pretty and shiny and then "bent"
the little copper bar a little so the point gap would be approximately the
same as before cleaning.
Before I put this back together, isn't there a way I can put 12 Volts across
this and see if it clicks?? I don't know which terminals I need to put the
12 V. on. Does anyone know?????
I don't believe the relay is "shot" I think it will work but I'd like to
test it before I put it back together and put it back on the firewall.
Thanks in advance.
The Old Gray Devil
Don
BN7
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 19:55:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Overdrive Relay
In a message dated 07/03/2000 5:35:58 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
dyarber@dynasty.net writes:
<<
Before I put this back together, isn't there a way I can put 12 Volts across
this and see if it clicks?? I don't know which terminals I need to put the
12 V. on. Does anyone know?????
>>
put 12 V across W1 and W@ and this should "activate" the relay. Theln,
disconnect the voltage and by hand close the relay bar. Use an ohm meter to
check resistance from C1 ato C2, i.e. across the contact. THe reason
Isuggest closing the bar by hand is this avoids any possibility of having
live voltage get into your ohm meter, which could fry it.
Roger
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 23:00:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Healey Blue help
Jim
There is a late BMW light blue metallic and also a recent Honda Accord light
blue metallic that are right on for Healey Blue - and widely available in
factory packs from several mfgs - PPG, Glasserit, Sikkens, DuPont etc.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Received this in response to my Bluegrass Club web Site today. My copy of Don
> Pikovniks Guide to historic colors is out on loan, can anyone help Joe Coker
> out? reply directly to cokeratty@jellico.com (Joe Coker)
> Thanks,
> Jim Werner
> __________________________________________________________________
> Dear Jim: I have a 1962 3000MKII which is being restored and am looking for
> the original Healey Blue color code or a place to buy this paint, and would
> appreciate this being posted on the member list with the request that anyone
> having this information email back. Thanks for any help or suggestions. Joe
> Coker
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Joe Coker <jgcoker at excite.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 01:41:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Color Code for Healey Blue
Dear List Members: This is coming from a new subscriber and first time
writer, so please forgive any lack of protocol. I am in the process of
restoring a 1962 3000MKII and am looking for the color code for the original
Healey Blue and/or a place where it can be purchased. Can anyone help with
this information? Thanks, Joe
_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 07:49:41 EDT
Subject: AHCA Driving Award
In yesterday's mail I received notice of the new Driving Award as outlined by
the AHCA committee. Copies were also sent to all our club presidents. We all
also received the application form to document the trip.
Two of the "General Objectives" in the "By-laws" of the AHCA are:
a) The enjoyment and sharing of good will and fellowship engendered by
owning an Austin-Healey automobile.
b) The maintenance of the highest standards of operation and performance of
the marque.
A 2000 mile trip will be a Bronze Award; 4000, a Silver; 6000 a gold and an
8000 or more, a Platinum award.
The trip has to be documented and also signed by your local club president.
A $20 check is to be included to cover the certificate, Award T-shirt and
shipping.
If you need a copy of the form, see your local president or email me and I
can fax one to you.
Too bad Conclave is only 550 miles for me this year, but there is always next
year to Minnesota or to Lake Tahoe in 2002 to qualify.
Happy Healeying!
Rudy Streng in Lenoir, NC
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 04 Jul 2000 08:50:17 -0400
Subject: Re: My 3 speed is now a 2 speed :(
Allen Edwards wrote:
> I guess it is too much to ask to go for two rides in one day. Now I
> have this terrible noise and rattle in second gear. I just know that a
> tooth is missing on something on my early BN1 3 speed. I notice that
> all the relevant gears say NA in the Moss Motors catalog. Anyone know
> what a fellow is to do in a case like this. I don't have the thing
> apart so don't yet know exactly the parts I need, but I do know I don't
> know where to get them. Anyone on the list know what to do in a case
> like this?
>
> Allen
>
> '54 BN1
Hi Allen,
I have a reasonable collection of good used BN1 gears.
You have to be very careful to get the correct ones as there are two
different pressure angles on the different series as I recall.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Jul 2000 09:47:54 -0400
Subject: Early BN1 ID cards
Does anyone know the dimensions of the white plastic ID card that
fastens to the inside left body panel just ahead of the door? Or does
anyone sell blanks? Joe Elmer, 53BN1.
From Bob McElwee <bobmac at i1.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Jul 2000 10:57:39 -0500
Subject: Re: AHCA Driving Award
Rudy,
Just my luck, just did 1,952 running up to Marquette and Bay City, MI to
see the ATW in 80 Days group go through MI. But I'd rather lend Jerry
Corker a car, buy a Texas Cooler (or any other club's thingy) than pay
$20.00 for a certificate that says we drive our car. But that is me and
everyone is welcome to their own views.
If anyone gets a chance to see the ATW group - you should try to do it.
Peter and Ann Hunt, Rick Dyke-Price and Stuart Onyett are a pleasure to
meet and talk to. Only got to meet the Facel Vega crew briefly as they
were retorquing the head bolts on the new engine. The other contestants
are neat to meet also, at least the ones we got an opportunity to meet.
I also want to thank Bob and Pat Brown for organizing the jaunt. Bob is
also doing yeoman work coordination support activities. I think this
makes his Route 66 effort seem like a local event.
Another couple that really knocked themselves out for the Healey folks
in Marquette were Terry and Kristi Doyle. He owns the Vierland
restaurant and really laid out a great spread for the visiting Healey
drivers and fans.
All in all, another really neat life experience made possible by the
wonderful cars we drive.
Bob Mc
62 BT7 - ran great, got soaked B-)
Hope AHCA gives the ATW group an honorary Platinum award - they figured
they were at about 15,000 miles and counting in Bay City, MI
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 12:30:01 EDT
Subject: Re: AHCA Driving Award
In a message dated 7/4/00 11:50:20 AM Eastern Daylight Time, bobmac@i1.net
writes:
Hope AHCA gives the ATW group an honorary Platinum award - they figured
they were at about 15,000 miles and counting in Bay City, MI
I think it is well documented and the club should do that for them gratis.
Rudy
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Jul 2000 09:33:59 -0700
Subject: Workshop Manual
I would like to purchase a workshop manual for my '60 BT7 3000 Mk.
1. If anyone on the list has one for sale, or knows of one, please
contact me off the list. Thanks.
Terry Blubaugh
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 13:44:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Blue help
In a message dated 7/3/00 7:20:48 PM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<<
There is a late BMW light blue metallic and also a recent Honda Accord light
blue metallic that are right on for Healey Blue >>
Not to question Dick Be Cheerful's color sense, but I don't think I would
call these two modern colors "right on." I think the BMW has a bit too much
magenta in it, giving it a slight "purple" cast, and the Honda doesn't have
enough yellow in it so it doesn't have that slight greenish tint in bright
sunlight that is characteristic of real Healey Blue.
Of course, if you look at the cover of our book, you'll note that even in
that reproduction a slight variation can be seen among three cars each
painted with what the owner thought was "right-on" at the time and matched
samples of original paint off that car. "Healey Blue" has to have varied
over time and from car to car under production conditions--heck, most
painters will tell you that it will vary from one day to the next and thus
recommend you paint all exterior panels at the same time and under the same
conditions with the same batch of paint so at least it doesn't vary from one
panel to the next.
If you aren't able to get paint mixed to the ICI code in Pikovnik's book,
then you might try whichever of these modern paints is most readily available
(or your paint shop prefers to use). Have the shop mix and spray a sample
piece of metal at least a foot or so square, and after it has thoroughly
dried, check it out in bright sunlight. If it is a shade you like, then go
for it. I hope most concours judges wouldn't believe that they actually know
with certainty what the "true" Healey blue looked like.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 13:46:27 EDT
Subject: Re: AHCA Driving Award
In a message dated 7/4/00 4:04:58 AM, CAWS52803@aol.com writes:
<<
A 2000 mile trip will be a Bronze Award; 4000, a Silver; 6000 a gold and an
8000 or more, a Platinum award. >>
I hereby nominate both Healeys running in the Round the World tour for
honorary platinum awards.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 14:05:18 EDT
Subject: Re: AHCA Driving Award
In a message dated 07/04/2000 12:52:47 PM Central Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<<
In a message dated 7/4/00 4:04:58 AM, CAWS52803@aol.com writes:
<<
A 2000 mile trip will be a Bronze Award; 4000, a Silver; 6000 a gold and an
8000 or more, a Platinum award. >>
I hereby nominate both Healeys running in the Round the World tour for
honorary platinum awards.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
>>
Second (and "Official") !!
Cheers...........
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter - AHCA
Member, AHCUSA
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 19:56:20 +0200
Subject: Re: Color Code for Healey Blue
Hi Joe,
according to the 'Austin Healey Guide to Historic Colors ' by Dan Pikovnik
is the 'Ice Blue Metallic (Healey Blue)', original Code BU.02 in ICI Codes
2301M.
My paint shop converted it to Sikkens (Akzo Coatings) TOY863 which is I
would guess a Toyota color code.
Hope it helps
Best regards
Martin
Germany
>
> Dear List Members: This is coming from a new subscriber and first time
> writer, so please forgive any lack of protocol. I am in the process of
> restoring a 1962 3000MKII and am looking for the color code for the
original
> Healey Blue and/or a place where it can be purchased. Can anyone help
with
> this information? Thanks, Joe
>
From "Coop1 at DNAI" <coop1@dnai.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 13:34:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Blue help
My Healey Blue MKIII is supposed to be as close to the real deal as any
around. It goes in for minor body work and a two tone paint job end of next
month (see last pic). My wife drives a late model ice blue Honda Accord and
it isn't even close to the same color. But check it out - Healey Blue (with
just a hint of green in the sunlight).
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=222976
Happy 4th everyone.... Randy aka "Coop"
> In a message dated 7/3/00 7:20:48 PM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
>
> <<
> There is a late BMW light blue metallic and also a recent Honda Accord
light
> blue metallic that are right on for Healey Blue >>
>
> Not to question Dick Be Cheerful's color sense, but I don't think I would
> call these two modern colors "right on." I think the BMW has a bit too
much
> magenta in it, giving it a slight "purple" cast, and the Honda doesn't
have
> enough yellow in it so it doesn't have that slight greenish tint in bright
> sunlight that is characteristic of real Healey Blue.
>
> Of course, if you look at the cover of our book, you'll note that even in
> that reproduction a slight variation can be seen among three cars each
> painted with what the owner thought was "right-on" at the time and matched
> samples of original paint off that car. "Healey Blue" has to have varied
> over time and from car to car under production conditions--heck, most
> painters will tell you that it will vary from one day to the next and thus
> recommend you paint all exterior panels at the same time and under the
same
> conditions with the same batch of paint so at least it doesn't vary from
one
> panel to the next.
>
> If you aren't able to get paint mixed to the ICI code in Pikovnik's book,
> then you might try whichever of these modern paints is most readily
available
> (or your paint shop prefers to use). Have the shop mix and spray a sample
> piece of metal at least a foot or so square, and after it has thoroughly
> dried, check it out in bright sunlight. If it is a shade you like, then
go
> for it. I hope most concours judges wouldn't believe that they actually
know
> with certainty what the "true" Healey blue looked like.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
>
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 19:01:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey Blue help
>My Healey Blue MKIII is supposed to be as close to the real deal as any
>around. It goes in for minor body work and a two tone paint job end of next
>month (see last pic). My wife drives a late model ice blue Honda Accord and
>it isn't even close to the same color. But check it out - Healey Blue (with
>just a hint of green in the sunlight).
> http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=222976
Nice looking car. And just how many of those good looking guitars did it
take?
Lee Mairs
1962 Tri-carb
amateur luthier
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 09:25:05 +1000
Subject: Re: My 3 speed is now a 2 speed :(
Greetings
Although my days of BN1 ownership are long gone I have fond memories of
rebuilding its gearbox many times.
As much as I think the 3 speed gearbox is well suited to the torque
characteristics of the four cylinder engine the gears themselves are the
achilles heel of the car.
I was recently able to reflect on my affection for the gearbox when I rebuilt
the BN1 gearbox of a friend. A number of teeth on the input shaft had broken.
When I had a BN1 it was usually teeth on the 2nd gear (3rd in the box) or the
cluster(laygear). However back in the early 1970s it was still possible to walk
into a BMC parts dealership and buy a new cluster for $45.00.
There are two sets of gear that will fit into the BN1 box and each set must be
install in total. It is not possible to mix the gears due to their differing
helical cut. Same ratio, just cut at a different angle. Austin A70s are a
useful source for the gears, but have a different cut to that of the AH.
When you are gathering together the bits to rebuild the box look around for a
number of different width cluster (laygear) spacers or shims. It is important
that 100% of the gear in the cluster line up with 100% of the individual gear.
I have also found it advisable not to use 2nd gear during braking.
Have fun.
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>>> Allen Edwards 3/07/00 16:34:20 >>>
I guess it is too much to ask to go for two rides in one day. Now I
have this terrible noise and rattle in second gear. I just know that a
tooth is missing on something on my early BN1 3 speed. I notice that
all the relevant gears say NA in the Moss Motors catalog. Anyone know
what a fellow is to do in a case like this. I don't have the thing
apart so don't yet know exactly the parts I need, but I do know I don't
know where to get them. Anyone on the list know what to do in a case
like this?
Allen
'54 BN1
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 19:29:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Healey Blue help
Gary
In no way do I dispute anything you have said. Your opinion as to the modern
paints I suggested may be correct or not. I think we all have varying degrees
of color sensitivity/blindness <G>
When I originally restored my BT7 Tri-Carb and decided on Healey Blue over Old
English White I spent a good deal of time at the paint supplier's, going
through old and new paint-chip books. I then decided on two colors that I
thought were "dead-on".
When the paint (Sikkens) was made up and I was satisfied, I got a formulaic
print-out, which I still have. That formula crossed to both DuPont and PPG in
several variations of one-part, two-part, catalysed, non-catalysed, ISO-free,
water-based, urethane, acrylic, lacquer, etc.
Thereafter, at more than one gathering or Conclave I've had any number of
people walk up to me and ask what my paint formula was, they stating ,"That's
Exactly the right color for Healey Blue"
About three weeks ago I decided to fix some bubbling at the bottom of my doors
and repaint them. That required Old English White. I dug out my Formulas and
had some lacquer mixed up and the PPG computer printed a label that said
"WIMBLEDON WHITE" . To my astonshment I discovered that Wimbledon White is
1987 Ford Truck White and I could have bought it in Large Dupli-Color spray
cans for $4.95 each - two would have been enough for both sides of my Healey.
Instead I paid $50/qt for "custom" lacquer, plus thinner, etc., = nearly $100
for materials, AND I had to buy a fresh respirator and crank up my compressor
and adjust and then clean my Accuspray HVLP gun, mix the paint,match the
outside temperature to the range of the thinner, etc. - and I could have saved
myself a lot of trouble if I trusted my Eyes and wasn't slavish to ICI Codes.
In my years in Healeydom I have seen ten different shades of Colorado Red (from
Orange-ish to Magenta-ish)- all said to be the correctICI Code. A friend with
a BN2 wanted his car Reno Red and brought me a piece of inner fender that had
been protected from sunlight since 1955 to match. By eyeball, I decided that a
Chrysler Reliant Maroon (don't remember the year) was an exact match and to
this day he is ecstatic with how "authentic" his Reno Red is.
The advantage of using a modern paint is you can always get more for panel
re-paints and touch-up - plus you can use modern, relatively safe materials.
I was just trying to be helpful. When I see you at Conclave 2001 (Grand
Rapids) you can make your own judgment as to the accuracy of my "eye"
Best regards,
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 7/3/00 7:20:48 PM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
>
> <<
> There is a late BMW light blue metallic and also a recent Honda Accord light
> blue metallic that are right on for Healey Blue >>
>
> Not to question Dick Be Cheerful's color sense, but I don't think I would
> call these two modern colors "right on." I think the BMW has a bit too much
> magenta in it, giving it a slight "purple" cast, and the Honda doesn't have
> enough yellow in it so it doesn't have that slight greenish tint in bright
> sunlight that is characteristic of real Healey Blue.
>
> Of course, if you look at the cover of our book, you'll note that even in
> that reproduction a slight variation can be seen among three cars each
> painted with what the owner thought was "right-on" at the time and matched
> samples of original paint off that car. "Healey Blue" has to have varied
> over time and from car to car under production conditions--heck, most
> painters will tell you that it will vary from one day to the next and thus
> recommend you paint all exterior panels at the same time and under the same
> conditions with the same batch of paint so at least it doesn't vary from one
> panel to the next.
>
> If you aren't able to get paint mixed to the ICI code in Pikovnik's book,
> then you might try whichever of these modern paints is most readily available
> (or your paint shop prefers to use). Have the shop mix and spray a sample
> piece of metal at least a foot or so square, and after it has thoroughly
> dried, check it out in bright sunlight. If it is a shade you like, then go
> for it. I hope most concours judges wouldn't believe that they actually know
> with certainty what the "true" Healey blue looked like.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 19:34:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: AHCA Driving Award
What about the Facel-Vega?
I has a Healey BJ8 engine - although Rich Chrysler and I had to organize an
engine swap in Duluth; it has already had five drivers; aqnd at the moment has
almost 1 1/2 WEEKS of accumulated penalties.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> In a message dated 07/04/2000 12:52:47 PM Central Daylight Time,
> Editorgary@aol.com writes:
>
> <<
> In a message dated 7/4/00 4:04:58 AM, CAWS52803@aol.com writes:
>
> <<
> A 2000 mile trip will be a Bronze Award; 4000, a Silver; 6000 a gold and an
> 8000 or more, a Platinum award. >>
>
> I hereby nominate both Healeys running in the Round the World tour for
> honorary platinum awards.
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> Editor, British Car Magazine
> >>
>
> Second (and "Official") !!
>
> Cheers...........
>
> Ed
> '63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
> Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter - AHCA
> Member, AHCUSA
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 19:51:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Healey Blue help
Coop
I just Love your Guitars. You are a master - congrats to both you and your
teacher. I know they sound as good as they look.
Your BJ8 is a bit too Blueish for my "eye", as is the car you posted as your
prototype two-tone - but what do I know, I'm only an old lawyer.
BTW, I think Gary, Roger and others can confirm that in some of the early
literature the color was called Healey GREY or GRAY - which may be why I would
guess that your wife's Honda would strike me as more "authentic" - I like
gre(a)yer and less metallic.
But your BJ8 looks terrific in any event.
Happy Healeying
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> My Healey Blue MKIII is supposed to be as close to the real deal as any
> around. It goes in for minor body work and a two tone paint job end of next
> month (see last pic). My wife drives a late model ice blue Honda Accord and
> it isn't even close to the same color. But check it out - Healey Blue (with
> just a hint of green in the sunlight).
> http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=222976
>
> Happy 4th everyone.... Randy aka "Coop"
>
>
>
> > In a message dated 7/3/00 7:20:48 PM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
> >
> > <<
> > There is a late BMW light blue metallic and also a recent Honda Accord
> light
> > blue metallic that are right on for Healey Blue >>
> >
> > Not to question Dick Be Cheerful's color sense, but I don't think I would
> > call these two modern colors "right on." I think the BMW has a bit too
> much
> > magenta in it, giving it a slight "purple" cast, and the Honda doesn't
> have
> > enough yellow in it so it doesn't have that slight greenish tint in bright
> > sunlight that is characteristic of real Healey Blue.
> >
> > Of course, if you look at the cover of our book, you'll note that even in
> > that reproduction a slight variation can be seen among three cars each
> > painted with what the owner thought was "right-on" at the time and matched
> > samples of original paint off that car. "Healey Blue" has to have varied
> > over time and from car to car under production conditions--heck, most
> > painters will tell you that it will vary from one day to the next and thus
> > recommend you paint all exterior panels at the same time and under the
> same
> > conditions with the same batch of paint so at least it doesn't vary from
> one
> > panel to the next.
> >
> > If you aren't able to get paint mixed to the ICI code in Pikovnik's book,
> > then you might try whichever of these modern paints is most readily
> available
> > (or your paint shop prefers to use). Have the shop mix and spray a sample
> > piece of metal at least a foot or so square, and after it has thoroughly
> > dried, check it out in bright sunlight. If it is a shade you like, then
> go
> > for it. I hope most concours judges wouldn't believe that they actually
> know
> > with certainty what the "true" Healey blue looked like.
> >
> > Cheers
> > Gary Anderson
> >
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Bob McElwee <bobmac at i1.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Jul 2000 20:50:48 -0500
Subject: Re: AHCA Driving Award
Let's make it simple and make it for each of the cars included in Team
Healey. That would be the two Healeys and the Facel-Vega.
I only met them briefly but they were still in good sprits in spite of
their troubles.
bob mc
62 BT7
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Tue, 04 Jul 2000 09:27:31 -0700
Subject: Address for Farhspass
Anybody have a current e-mail address for Udo Putzke? Thanks. John
Trifari 1955BN1/1965 BJ8
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 07:20:26 EDT
Subject: AHCA Driving Award
Hi Listers,
In response to the mail on the Award, Current AHCA Pres. and Commodore, Gary
Lowndsdale, has suggested that I bring the nomination for the Healeys on the
Around The World tour before the Board of Delegates. We both agree that this
is appropriate and would be well accepted. I can't think of a better way to
honor these drivers and kick off the Driving Award program.
For those of you that have been involved, I need the following information:
Driver & Navigator's names; Model of the car; Serial Number; Countries
traveled; and total miles.
I will put it all together for the July Delegates Meeting at our national
Conclave in Indianapolis.
Rudy Streng
Past President AHCA
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 08:57:23 EDT
Subject: Re: AHCA Driving Award
You already have an Official Second (the motion) Rudy!!
Cheers............
Ed
From "R. C. Brown" <rcbrown at lucent.com>
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 09:24:21 -0500
Subject: Re: AHCA Driving Award
Rudy,
I have this information and will get it together and send it to you.
Bob Brown
CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi Listers,
> In response to the mail on the Award, Current AHCA Pres. and Commodore, Gary
> Lowndsdale, has suggested that I bring the nomination for the Healeys on the
> Around The World tour before the Board of Delegates. We both agree that this
> is appropriate and would be well accepted. I can't think of a better way to
> honor these drivers and kick off the Driving Award program.
>
> For those of you that have been involved, I need the following information:
> Driver & Navigator's names; Model of the car; Serial Number; Countries
> traveled; and total miles.
> I will put it all together for the July Delegates Meeting at our national
> Conclave in Indianapolis.
>
> Rudy Streng
> Past President AHCA
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 11:34:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Blue help
In a message dated 7/4/00 5:17:44 PM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<<
BTW, I think Gary, Roger and others can confirm that in some of the early
literature the color was called Healey GREY or GRAY - which may be why I
would guess that your wife's Honda would strike me as more "authentic" - I
like gre(a)yer and less metallic. >>
Sorry to disagree slightly -- on some early build cards there is a note that
the car was painted Healey Grey. However, those cars are in series with cars
painted Healey Blue, and at least one car painted Healey Grey has been seen.
It is definitely gray, somewhere between battleship and dove gray, and not
Healey blue.
Having spent a lot of time over the past three years trying to set and
maintain my computer monitor so that it reproduces colors as they will come
off my printer's press, I would caution anyone not to try to interpret color
shades as they see them on the Net since their own monitor, not to mention
the scanning methods of the sender, will affect the colors.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 14:19:45 -0400
Subject: Almost there...
I finally got the new fuel tank in my Tri-carb and figured out a way to
connect the fuel feed to the fuel pump. (I now no more than I ever wanted
to learn about why BST compression fittings bare virtually no resemblance to
their US counterparts!). I get a "full" reading on the gas gauge which I
know is incorrect. I see the terminal and did connect the old wire to the
terminal, but I can't see how the current is supposed to get to ground as
shown in the manual. The sender is connected electrically to the tank via
the mounting screws, but there is no grounding strap on the tank. I'm
fairly certain the needle snaps to full, because there is an open circuit
where the fuel gage sender unit is.
Anybody help with an idea?
Lee
62 Mk II Tri-Carb
Northern Virginia
From BN4L at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 14:26:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Address for Farhspass
In a message dated 7/4/2000 9:35:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time, john4@home.com
writes:
<< Anybody have a current e-mail address for Udo Putzke? Thanks. John
Trifari 1955BN1/1965 BJ8
>>
John, his address is putzkes@worldnet.att.net
Art Hill
Escondido, CA
'58 100-6 BN4 A-H "Mille Miglia"
'66 TR6R Triumph Tiger
'96 R1100RT BMW
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 15:31:12 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Healey Blue help
--part1_a0.6c0d833.2694e700_boundary
In response to Ed's question about why anyone would want anything other than
the code for the current ICI paint, the problem is that not every paint shop
has access to ICI paints and/or corresponding codes for other manufacturers.
Hence, some people will still be looking for something that is more
convenient, depending on where they or their paint shop is buying the paint.
Doesn't take away in the least from the depth of Don's research or the value
and accuracy of his information. Not to mention it's the first book that
offers good color chips so people can see what the colors look like.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
In a message dated 7/5/00 8:35:49 AM, edriver@sk.sympatico.ca writes:
<< Hi Gary
After contributing to the initial request on this by Jim Werner, I'm not
sure why this thread has evolved this way. Don Pikovnik did an immense
amount of work, first consulting with various members of the AHCA concours
group (present and past) to a great deal of discussion with representatives
of ICI North America (who are located in Canada); and with Andres. Three
colours that BMC used on Healeys vary in range these are Healey Blue,
English White and Primrose - if we accept the codes Don received from ICI
shouldn't we be satisfied? I'm not sure why others, yourself excluded, are
"pmsing" or "bmwing" so much - a.) pangs of guilt or b.) not being able to
follow up on suggests.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon >>
--part1_a0.6c0d833.2694e700_boundary
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Message-ID: <396355D2.789A4A50@sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 10:35:46 -0500
From: "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
Reply-To: edriver@sk.sympatico.ca
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.73 [en] (Win95; U)
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To: Editorgary@aol.com
Subject: Re: Healey Blue help
References: <11.5fc9321.2694af93@aol.com>
Hi Gary
After contributing to the initial request on this by Jim Werner, I'm not
sure why this thread has evolved this way. Don Pikovnik did an immense
amount of work, first consulting with various members of the AHCA concours
group (present and past) to a great deal of discussion with representatives
of ICI North America (who are located in Canada); and with Andres. Three
colours that BMC used on Healeys vary in range these are Healey Blue,
English White and Primrose - if we accept the codes Don received from ICI
shouldn't we be satisfied? I'm not sure why others, yourself excluded, are
"pmsing" or "bmwing" so much - a.) pangs of guilt or b.) not being able to
follow up on suggests.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
('65 BJ8, reasonably finished, non -concours, blue over white not quite to
code but with respect to those who like originality - an old club racer who
enjoys vintage cars)
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 7/4/00 5:17:44 PM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
>
> <<
> BTW, I think Gary, Roger and others can confirm that in some of the early
> literature the color was called Healey GREY or GRAY - which may be why I
> would guess that your wife's Honda would strike me as more "authentic" - I
> like gre(a)yer and less metallic. >>
>
> Sorry to disagree slightly -- on some early build cards there is a note that
> the car was painted Healey Grey. However, those cars are in series with cars
> painted Healey Blue, and at least one car painted Healey Grey has been seen.
> It is definitely gray, somewhere between battleship and dove gray, and not
> Healey blue.
>
> Having spent a lot of time over the past three years trying to set and
> maintain my computer monitor so that it reproduces colors as they will come
> off my printer's press, I would caution anyone not to try to interpret color
> shades as they see them on the Net since their own monitor, not to mention
> the scanning methods of the sender, will affect the colors.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
--part1_a0.6c0d833.2694e700_boundary--
From "R. Markl/B. Council" <rmarkl at bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 14:49:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Almost there...
Running a ground wire from a sender mounting screw to the frame should
cure your problem.
R. Markl, 100M
"Lee S. Mairs" wrote:
>
> I finally got the new fuel tank in my Tri-carb and figured out a way to
> connect the fuel feed to the fuel pump. (I now no more than I ever wanted
> to learn about why BST compression fittings bare virtually no resemblance to
> their US counterparts!). I get a "full" reading on the gas gauge which I
> know is incorrect. I see the terminal and did connect the old wire to the
> terminal, but I can't see how the current is supposed to get to ground as
> shown in the manual. The sender is connected electrically to the tank via
> the mounting screws, but there is no grounding strap on the tank. I'm
> fairly certain the needle snaps to full, because there is an open circuit
> where the fuel gage sender unit is.
> Anybody help with an idea?
> Lee
> 62 Mk II Tri-Carb
> Northern Virginia
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 15:41:41 -0500
Subject: Just read in Machine Design...
Hi folks,
Saw a very intriguing product description in Machine Design - a combined
spark plug and fuel injector designed for direct-injection gasoline engines.
GM's Delphi division has made these as retrofit devices.
Wouldn't this be a great way to prototype a setup for a fuel-injected
Healey? I realize that the stock manifold is not designed optimally with
runners but it should still allow a decent FI system as a starting point.
Has anyone on the List applied FI to a Healey? Just curious...
Adnan
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 17:31:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Blue help
In a message dated 07/05/2000 2:33:44 PM Central Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< if we accept the codes Don received from ICI
shouldn't we be satisfied? I'm not sure why others, yourself excluded, are
"pmsing" or "bmwing" so much - a.) pangs of guilt or b.) not being able to
follow up on suggests. >>
In a word, Ed & Gary:
LAZY!
Cheers...........
Ed
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 14:56:21 -0700
Subject: RE: Just read in Machine Design...
I'm working on it, I'm using TWM throttle bodies on raised neck
Weber manifolds. It should work well, I'm busy with other things right
now and have put the project aside, will take it up again in a couple of
months.
John Pagel
Customer care leader
tel 888-iMotors
fax 916-686-7818
john.pagel@imotors.com
You've never bought a used car like this!
-----Original Message-----
From: Merchant, Adnan [mailto:Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 1:42 PM
To: 'healeys@Autox.team.net'
Cc: 'bn71962@juno.com'
Subject: Just read in Machine Design...
Hi folks,
Saw a very intriguing product description in Machine Design - a combined
spark plug and fuel injector designed for direct-injection gasoline engines.
GM's Delphi division has made these as retrofit devices.
Wouldn't this be a great way to prototype a setup for a fuel-injected
Healey? I realize that the stock manifold is not designed optimally with
runners but it should still allow a decent FI system as a starting point.
Has anyone on the List applied FI to a Healey? Just curious...
Adnan
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 18:09:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Almost there...
A ground wire from the sending unit to one of the tail light grounds
restored proper operation. My long suffering, 82 year old helper and I had
a glorious ride around the block and thru the neighborhood - and uncovered a
host more of problems do be dealt with at a later date!
I can't figure out how it worked previously. Either the tank grounded
itself on the frame (thru paint, dirt, grease, and undercoating) or their
was a connection thru the armored fuel line to the fuel pump (not likely as
it was connected at both ends with hose clamps. Oh well...
Lee Mairs
'62 MkII Tri-carb (Isn't that redundant??)
-----Original Message-----
From: Jhayspu@aol.com <Jhayspu@aol.com>
To: lmairs@ix.netcom.com <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 4:16 PM
Subject: Re: Almost there...
>In theory, the tank is grounded to the frame. However, when insulating
>material is used to seat the tank, no ground. Some suggest grounding the
>unit to the frame via an owner installed wire from one of the screw heads
to
>the frame. Try an alligator clip to see if it does any good. Other than
>that, watch the odometer and estimate.
>
>Dr. Jerry Hay
>Associate Professor
>Spalding University
>851 South Fourth Street
>Louisville, KY 40203
From "JISah102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 18:30:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Almost there...
'62 MkII Tri-carb (Isn't that redundant??)
Not If you have a BN6 with Ruddspeed SU HD6 Tri-carbs!
Jim
From "Alan Alfano" <aalfano02 at snet.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 18:30:39 -0400
Subject: Re: RX shocks
Lance, Mike,
The stock shock absorber for a AH 100 BN1 is a
Armstrong Hydraulic Double Acting IS9/10R.
On the BN2, 100S, 100M and 100-6, the stock shock absorber is a
Armstrong Hydraulic Double Acting IS9/10RXP.
The RXP shock, Austin Part No. 1B.8935 are harder
than the standard equipment shocks which were
phased out on chassis LHD 153855, RHD 153857.
Source:
AH 100 Service manual, BN2 supplement,
AH 100 Special Equipment and Tuning Instructions.
Regards,
Alan Alfano
1956 Austin-Healey 100M (2)
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 15:55:11 -0700
Subject: Fuel Gage....
While on the topic of fuel senders etc. I was wondering about how linear the
gage/sender is. Mine shows full for guite some time and then falls quickly.
I get a little nervous when it gets down to 1/8 tank so always fill it up.
Also when the gas is sloshing about in the tank the gage needle bounces
about, I gather this is because there are no tank baffles. Is this normal
behaviour or are there fixes for these little oddities...Neil
From Silas Elash <spe00 at amdahl.com>
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 17:16:45 -0700
Subject: Just what is an Engine Stand?
Well I thought I had seen it all, but beware of who is
selling you your parts. I am about to blast and primer my healey frame.
Looked at a picture in the archives of a rotisserie that used
two engine stands and a bit more steel to do the job. Went to
a local well known chain auto parts store to price the engine stands:
I did not see any on the main floor, so I asked at the parts counter.
"Do you guys sell engine stands?" I got a strange look - like I was
being dumb and didn't know what I was asking for. Then he said, "You mean
something to lift the engine up?" No. I want something to hold the
engine. He led me to the back to a "cherry picker"/engine hoist.
I said, "Thats not what I want I want an engine stand - you bolt an
engine to it when you are rebuilding it - you can rotate the engine
and simplify the whole process." He said, "They make those?"
"We just put the engine on jack stands." At this point I had endured
quite enough and left the establishment with both a sense of failure and
awe. I am still amazed that you can sell parts wtih so little
knowledge and that no one else in the store stepped up to the plate
to save the day. Things sure have changed in the parts biz.
--
Silas Elash email: Silas_Elash@amdahl.com
Staff System Design Engineer phone:(408) 746-6536
Connectivity Development fax:(408) 746-8502
Amdahl Corporation
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 20:31:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Just what is an Engine Stand?
In a message dated 07/05/2000 8:23:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
spe00@amdahl.com writes:
<< I got a strange look - like I was
being dumb and didn't know what I was asking for >>
Yea, I wonder what has happened to the parts stores now that they are all
chains. No longer do they employ people who know about working on cars. I
went to one store a while back looking for new jets for a carb. Same puzzled
look from the kid behind the counter, then he asked, "Is that like fuel
injection???" I walked. If you don't know what a carb is, then you don't
get my buisness.
On a plus note, the girl behind the counter at Advance Auto parts did find
brake hoses for Austin Healeys. Of course I was asked who makes an austin
healey, and what kind of car that was before she gave up on the computer and
looked in one of the books behind the counter. She could not tell me which
hose went to the 3000 and which to the sprite, so I declined to buy the one I
needed...But they are there!!!
Tim
From "John Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 17:28:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Just what is an Engine Stand?
I think the problem is that the kids they have working in most of the major
chain stores think that modifications, repairs, etc to a car consist of
putting in a new amplifier so that they can blast their eardrums out. I've
been given dumb looks by clerks at Pep Boys when asking for 30-weight non
detergent oil like I came from Mars or someplace. That's why whenever I see
it I buy a couple of cases at a time cause I never know when it will
reappear on the shelf and I know I can't ask for it.
John Sims, BN6
Las Vegas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Silas Elash" <spe00@amdahl.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 5:16 PM
Subject: Just what is an Engine Stand?
>
> Well I thought I had seen it all, but beware of who is
> selling you your parts. I am about to blast and primer my healey frame.
> Looked at a picture in the archives of a rotisserie that used
> two engine stands and a bit more steel to do the job. Went to
> a local well known chain auto parts store to price the engine stands:
>
> I did not see any on the main floor, so I asked at the parts counter.
> "Do you guys sell engine stands?" I got a strange look - like I was
> being dumb and didn't know what I was asking for. Then he said, "You mean
> something to lift the engine up?" No. I want something to hold the
> engine. He led me to the back to a "cherry picker"/engine hoist.
> I said, "Thats not what I want I want an engine stand - you bolt an
> engine to it when you are rebuilding it - you can rotate the engine
> and simplify the whole process." He said, "They make those?"
> "We just put the engine on jack stands." At this point I had endured
> quite enough and left the establishment with both a sense of failure and
> awe. I am still amazed that you can sell parts wtih so little
> knowledge and that no one else in the store stepped up to the plate
> to save the day. Things sure have changed in the parts biz.
>
> --
> Silas Elash email: Silas_Elash@amdahl.com
> Staff System Design Engineer phone:(408) 746-6536
> Connectivity Development fax:(408) 746-8502
> Amdahl Corporation
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 18:04:42 +0000
Subject: Re: Just what is an Engine Stand?
I can't believe that Silas has just had this experience. I've been having it
for 10 years, maybe more. Now that the vast majority of parts stores are
franchise affairs it can only get worse. They tend to pay at or only
slightly above minimum wage which doesn't attract high quality, expereinced
or knowledgable employees. I know. I watched the whole process from the
point of view of a new hire who was 'trained' for a large retail operation.
I know what kind of employees you're going to find in most parts stores. For
goodness sakes, don't ask for a shelf-stretcher or you may get one.
----------
>From: Silas Elash <spe00@amdahl.com>
>To: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Just what is an Engine Stand?
>Date: Thu, Jul 6, 2000, 12:16 AM
>
>
> Well I thought I had seen it all, but beware of who is
> selling you your parts. I am about to blast and primer my healey frame.
> Looked at a picture in the archives of a rotisserie that used
> two engine stands and a bit more steel to do the job. Went to
> a local well known chain auto parts store to price the engine stands:
>
> I did not see any on the main floor, so I asked at the parts counter.
> "Do you guys sell engine stands?" I got a strange look - like I was
> being dumb and didn't know what I was asking for. Then he said, "You mean
> something to lift the engine up?" No. I want something to hold the
> engine. He led me to the back to a "cherry picker"/engine hoist.
> I said, "Thats not what I want I want an engine stand - you bolt an
> engine to it when you are rebuilding it - you can rotate the engine
> and simplify the whole process." He said, "They make those?"
> "We just put the engine on jack stands." At this point I had endured
> quite enough and left the establishment with both a sense of failure and
> awe. I am still amazed that you can sell parts wtih so little
> knowledge and that no one else in the store stepped up to the plate
> to save the day. Things sure have changed in the parts biz.
>
> --
> Silas Elash email: Silas_Elash@amdahl.com
> Staff System Design Engineer phone:(408) 746-6536
> Connectivity Development fax:(408) 746-8502
> Amdahl Corporation
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 20:47:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
In a message dated 7/5/00 4:16:30 PM, neilberg@telus.net writes:
<< While on the topic of fuel senders etc. I was wondering about how linear
the
gage/sender is. Mine shows full for guite some time and then falls quickly.
I get a little nervous when it gets down to 1/8 tank so always fill it up.
Also when the gas is sloshing about in the tank the gage needle bounces
about, I gather this is because there are no tank baffles. Is this normal
behaviour or are there fixes for these little oddities...Neil >>
I kind of like the semaphore effect as the tank gets low -- sort of acts as a
visual warning, like the red light on my Jag. However, I rely much more on
my trip odometer to tell when I need to fill up. I always fill it up at the
next opportunity after the trip odometer shows 160 miles. I can get as much
as 210 on a long-distance trip, but try not to do that. On long trips I make
it a rule always to fill up whenever anyone else does.
Cheers
gary
From Mr Finespanner <mrfinespanner at blazenet.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 21:45:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wire
>From 38 years of Healey driving experience and learning from one too many
failed Champion plugs - I agree with Ed. The NGK BP5ES plugs have been
performing perfectly.
Del Border
Tri-Carb OO
JustBrits@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 06/30/2000 9:04:39 PM Central Daylight Time,
> magicare@home.com writes:
>
> << With all due respect to the exalted Champion Spark Plug Company >>
>
> Not from me, Mike. On an average I found one in four failing!!
>
> <<we have had
> much better success with NGK plugs. BP5ES. >>
>
> YEP!! Haven't used anythin else in over 10 years.
>
> Cheers............
>
> ED
>
> Ed Kaler, Proprietor
> " Just Brits "
> Hinsdale, IL
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 21:52:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
I just put a new tank and sending unit in my BJ8. The old tank had
something rather large sliding around in it, and I always assumed it must be
a baffle broken loose because the gauge waved about when less than full,
especially when accelerating or decelerating. Now, not only does it wave as
before, it occasionally snaps quickly from side to side (full to empty and
back) and then vibrates somewhere around the correct reading. When it's not
doing this, it's pretty steady and correct. Electrical gremlins, I
suppose.
......And then there was the time I headed out of town at 3:00 am for a
distant car show, with a full tank of gas. Just about to enter the boonies,
I noticed my gauge (usually reliable) said I had 1/4 tank! That's when I
discovered what happens when a float sinks to the bottom of a carb. I just
thank my lucky stars that I had learned about the (missing) overflow tubes
shortly before and had replaced them. I never smelled any gas, either.
Barely managed to get back to the only open gas station and filled up. Ten
miles later when I got home, I was back to 1/4 tank.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666 - TARHEELY
Havelock, NC USA
"It is better to remain silent, and be thought a fool
than to speak, and remove all doubt" -- Mark Twain
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: neilberg@telus.net <neilberg@telus.net>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 8:56 PM
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
>
>
>In a message dated 7/5/00 4:16:30 PM, neilberg@telus.net writes:
>
><< While on the topic of fuel senders etc. I was wondering about how linear
>the
>gage/sender is. Mine shows full for guite some time and then falls quickly.
>I get a little nervous when it gets down to 1/8 tank so always fill it up.
>Also when the gas is sloshing about in the tank the gage needle bounces
>about, I gather this is because there are no tank baffles. Is this normal
>behaviour or are there fixes for these little oddities...Neil >>
>
>I kind of like the semaphore effect as the tank gets low -- sort of acts as
a
>visual warning, like the red light on my Jag. However, I rely much more on
>my trip odometer to tell when I need to fill up. I always fill it up at
the
>next opportunity after the trip odometer shows 160 miles. I can get as
much
>as 210 on a long-distance trip, but try not to do that. On long trips I
make
>it a rule always to fill up whenever anyone else does.
>
>Cheers
>gary
>
From RobertH148 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 21:57:38 EDT
Subject: Re: RE: Just read in Machine Design...
I understand that someone in Germany has already done it.
However the cost is very high. I can try to obtain more information if
desired.
Bob Humphreys
From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 22:00:59 -0400
Subject: Finally-3rd summer
Finally able to drive what I consider to be a fairly safe car,my BN4.
This is the 3rd summer of having the car having purchased it April Fools
day,1998. Got alot of tips and help from this list. Hope to meet some
of the you who have helped me at some car show or meet in the future.
Want to say that one thing that has helped me most recently is the
restoration book from Gary Anderson and Roger Moment. Several of the
photos really helped in getting little things on right. Wish I had
it three years ago.
Bill Pollock
'59 BN4 (Feb '59)
From Mike Tobin <bt7 at pppatch.com>
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 22:11:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Just what is an Engine Stand?
While it's tempting to cite "they build engine stands?" as another example
of The Imminent End of Western Civilization as We Know it, I'm not sure
things have changed for the worse for us.
The last time my wife was willing to go into a parts store was maybe '69.
She wanted a 50 amp fuse for the bt7. In their best "now little lady"
voices the entire staff assured her there was no such thing. Yes, the 15
amp fuses had "15 A" stamped on one end, but the "50 A" stamped on the end
our blown fuse meant something else (they didn't know what). This was at a
supposed foreign car parts place.
That was just after the bozo at the Shell station told her nobody made
windshield wiper blades as short as the ones he was looking at.
Then there was the guy who opened the trunk of the Hillman to check the oil.
The Good Olde Days? They're now. I can call any of a number of places,
talk to someone pleasant who knows about Healeys and in two days a 50 amp
fuse and two really short windshield wiper blades will be on my front porch.
Cheers,
Mike Tobin
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 22:14:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Just what is an Engine Stand?
In a message dated 7/5/00 8:25:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time, spe00@amdahl.com
writes:
<< Well I thought I had seen it all, but beware of who is
selling you your parts. I am about to blast and primer my healey frame.
Looked at a picture in the archives of a rotisserie that used
two engine stands and a bit more steel to do the job. Went to
a local well known chain auto parts store to price the engine stands:
I did not see any on the main floor, so I asked at the parts counter.
"Do you guys sell engine stands?" I got a strange look - like I was
being dumb and didn't know what I was asking for. Then he said, "You mean
something to lift the engine up?" No. I want something to hold the
engine. He led me to the back to a "cherry picker"/engine hoist.
I said, "Thats not what I want I want an engine stand - you bolt an
engine to it when you are rebuilding it - you can rotate the engine
and simplify the whole process." He said, "They make those?"
"We just put the engine on jack stands." At this point I had endured
quite enough and left the establishment with both a sense of failure and
awe. I am still amazed that you can sell parts wtih so little
knowledge and that no one else in the store stepped up to the plate
to save the day. Things sure have changed in the parts biz.
-- >>
Silas--
I once went to a Sears store and asked one of the hardware clerks for a
nailset. He replied "Sorry, we only sell nails by the box".
Michael
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 22:58:54 -0400
Subject: re healey blue
reguarding healey blue. I currently have a car in the shop that has its
orig. paint on the car. the car was resprayed once over orig. I will scan a
few areas i.e under the front healey emblem which is an area that I know
will have proper film build ( not quick passes or thin areas like under
dash ). the color is very greyish/ green/blue with a very fine metallic
content. as soon as I get it scanned I will post it and compare with other
scans I have received. will be mixing for ppg products
Carroll Top Down Restorations
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 22:11:35 -0400
Subject: Engine Stand
I thought all the dumb people lived in my town.
We went to a Pizza Hut recently for a pizza. The girl dropped our silver
ware on the floor. Instead of picking it up, she deliberately kicked it
under the counter.
She took our order, never said thanks and never once offered to re-fill my
coffee. We ordered two pizzas, the second one for $7.
There was a sign on the counter that said, "If we don't show you your pizza
to take out, it is free"
She failed to show it to us. I demanded it free. The manager said she
would have to put our name in a book and the next time we came in we would
get a free pizza.
I informed her that the sign did not spell out such stipulation and we
insisted and eventually got the pizza free.
Then at another restaurant three days later I specifically asked the
waitress if they took "American Express" and was told yes..they took "all
kinds of credit cards". When I went to pay the tab, they informed me that
my AMEX card wasn't welcome there.
I insisted that I was told it would be accepted and eventually got the meal
free.
What's all this have to do with Austin Healeys???
Nothing.
But the point is that good help is hard to find now-a-days and if you are
looking for something specific for an Austin Healey, you should go to the
Austin Healey people. I've given up on "fast service" places.
Like one person said, they pay minimum wage and they have minimum
brain-power people working there.
Don
BN7
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 08:34:52 -0700
Subject: Udo's address
My thanks to all who provided Udo Putzkes' address. John Trifari
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 20:31:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Just what is an Engine Stand?
That's funny they sell them here by the pound....;-)....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <spe00@amdahl.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 7:14 PM
Subject: Re: Just what is an Engine Stand?
>
> In a message dated 7/5/00 8:25:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
spe00@amdahl.com
> writes:
>
> << Well I thought I had seen it all, but beware of who is
> selling you your parts. I am about to blast and primer my healey frame.
> Looked at a picture in the archives of a rotisserie that used
> two engine stands and a bit more steel to do the job. Went to
> a local well known chain auto parts store to price the engine stands:
>
> I did not see any on the main floor, so I asked at the parts counter.
> "Do you guys sell engine stands?" I got a strange look - like I was
> being dumb and didn't know what I was asking for. Then he said, "You
mean
> something to lift the engine up?" No. I want something to hold the
> engine. He led me to the back to a "cherry picker"/engine hoist.
> I said, "Thats not what I want I want an engine stand - you bolt an
> engine to it when you are rebuilding it - you can rotate the engine
> and simplify the whole process." He said, "They make those?"
> "We just put the engine on jack stands." At this point I had endured
> quite enough and left the establishment with both a sense of failure and
> awe. I am still amazed that you can sell parts wtih so little
> knowledge and that no one else in the store stepped up to the plate
> to save the day. Things sure have changed in the parts biz.
>
> -- >>
> Silas--
>
> I once went to a Sears store and asked one of the hardware clerks for a
> nailset. He replied "Sorry, we only sell nails by the box".
>
> Michael
From "Graham Healey" <Graham_Healey at lse.com.au>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 14:14:32 +1000
Subject: RE: Engine Stand
Reminds me of the GST hotline (Goods & Sales Tax) you can phone here in
sydney at the moment.
It announces: "for those that understand English press 1, for those that do
not undersand English press 2" Dumb or what?
For those in Australia that might want to try it phone:
1300 302 502
Regards
Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Don Yarber
Sent: 06-Jul-2000 12:12
To: Healey List
Subject: Engine Stand
I thought all the dumb people lived in my town.
We went to a Pizza Hut recently for a pizza. The girl dropped our silver
ware on the floor. Instead of picking it up, she deliberately kicked it
under the counter.
She took our order, never said thanks and never once offered to re-fill my
coffee. We ordered two pizzas, the second one for $7.
There was a sign on the counter that said, "If we don't show you your pizza
to take out, it is free"
She failed to show it to us. I demanded it free. The manager said she
would have to put our name in a book and the next time we came in we would
get a free pizza.
I informed her that the sign did not spell out such stipulation and we
insisted and eventually got the pizza free.
Then at another restaurant three days later I specifically asked the
waitress if they took "American Express" and was told yes..they took "all
kinds of credit cards". When I went to pay the tab, they informed me that
my AMEX card wasn't welcome there.
I insisted that I was told it would be accepted and eventually got the meal
free.
What's all this have to do with Austin Healeys???
Nothing.
But the point is that good help is hard to find now-a-days and if you are
looking for something specific for an Austin Healey, you should go to the
Austin Healey people. I've given up on "fast service" places.
Like one person said, they pay minimum wage and they have minimum
brain-power people working there.
Don
BN7
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 00:20:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Just what is an Engine Stand?
I think if you live long enough you see everything.
Last week I was in Duluth, being the "gopher" for Team Healey in the AWR.
I arranged for Archer Racing to be the service and repair facility. (You might
like to take a look at their website - archerracing.com - they are the factory
support for the Vipers and Talons as well as NASCAR type cars and racing trucks
---20,000 sq ft facility.
Well, although they have 20 service bays they have NO LIFTS. They just use
floor jacks and jackstands.
Their claim is that their mechanics prefer it that way.
I would hate to crawl around on my knees or squat or lie on my back on a
creeper everytime I changed the oil or greased the u-joints or filled the
tranny and diff - let alone change a clutch or drop a transmission or do an
engine swap (which we did for the Facel-Vega)
But What Do I Know?
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> I can't believe that Silas has just had this experience. I've been having it
> for 10 years, maybe more. Now that the vast majority of parts stores are
> franchise affairs it can only get worse. They tend to pay at or only
> slightly above minimum wage which doesn't attract high quality, expereinced
> or knowledgable employees. I know. I watched the whole process from the
> point of view of a new hire who was 'trained' for a large retail operation.
> I know what kind of employees you're going to find in most parts stores. For
> goodness sakes, don't ask for a shelf-stretcher or you may get one.
>
> ----------
> >From: Silas Elash <spe00@amdahl.com>
> >To: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Just what is an Engine Stand?
> >Date: Thu, Jul 6, 2000, 12:16 AM
> >
>
> >
> > Well I thought I had seen it all, but beware of who is
> > selling you your parts. I am about to blast and primer my healey frame.
> > Looked at a picture in the archives of a rotisserie that used
> > two engine stands and a bit more steel to do the job. Went to
> > a local well known chain auto parts store to price the engine stands:
> >
> > I did not see any on the main floor, so I asked at the parts counter.
> > "Do you guys sell engine stands?" I got a strange look - like I was
> > being dumb and didn't know what I was asking for. Then he said, "You mean
> > something to lift the engine up?" No. I want something to hold the
> > engine. He led me to the back to a "cherry picker"/engine hoist.
> > I said, "Thats not what I want I want an engine stand - you bolt an
> > engine to it when you are rebuilding it - you can rotate the engine
> > and simplify the whole process." He said, "They make those?"
> > "We just put the engine on jack stands." At this point I had endured
> > quite enough and left the establishment with both a sense of failure and
> > awe. I am still amazed that you can sell parts wtih so little
> > knowledge and that no one else in the store stepped up to the plate
> > to save the day. Things sure have changed in the parts biz.
> >
> > --
> > Silas Elash email: Silas_Elash@amdahl.com
> > Staff System Design Engineer phone:(408) 746-6536
> > Connectivity Development fax:(408) 746-8502
> > Amdahl Corporation
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 21:24:44 -0700
Subject: Bad Experience...Gas
Isn't it remarkable how much gas can be pumped out of a car with such a
low velocity pump. I've been there as well with stuck needles in my float
bowls but no overflow tubes....scary to see where it runs and what it hits
before the it gets to the ground. (I now have them, P.O. never put them in)
Just last week I had the second jet line release from one of my float
bowls, I have to wonder about the person who rebuilt them or maybe they just
weren't done either. Anyway overflow tubes don't do much good in this
situation, the gas runs straight down over the exhaust manifold....good
reason to carry an extinguisher. I found if you have to ever remove the jet
line make sure you replace the rubber olive. The old one swells and is hard
to get in without mushing it and it's not worth the chance that it will
fail. I will do the other 2 shortly. This one scared the hell out of
me....Neil
> ......And then there was the time I headed out of town at 3:00 am for a
> distant car show, with a full tank of gas. Just about to enter the
boonies,
> I noticed my gauge (usually reliable) said I had 1/4 tank! That's when I
> discovered what happens when a float sinks to the bottom of a carb. I
just
> thank my lucky stars that I had learned about the (missing) overflow tubes
> shortly before and had replaced them. I never smelled any gas, either.
> Barely managed to get back to the only open gas station and filled up.
Ten
> miles later when I got home, I was back to 1/4 tank.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666 - TARHEELY
> Havelock, NC USA
> "It is better to remain silent, and be thought a fool
> than to speak, and remove all doubt" -- Mark Twain
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 22:40:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Just what is an Engine Stand?
Michael
Buddy and I asked my wife to purchase a set of wood chisels for us when she
was out shopping - she made her request and the clerks response was "we
don't have chisels made out of wood" This was 1970. Things haven't changed!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 7/5/00 8:25:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time, spe00@amdahl.com
> writes:
>
> << Well I thought I had seen it all, but beware of who is
> selling you your parts. I am about to blast and primer my healey frame.
> Looked at a picture in the archives of a rotisserie that used
> two engine stands and a bit more steel to do the job. Went to
> a local well known chain auto parts store to price the engine stands:
>
> I did not see any on the main floor, so I asked at the parts counter.
> "Do you guys sell engine stands?" I got a strange look - like I was
> being dumb and didn't know what I was asking for. Then he said, "You mean
> something to lift the engine up?" No. I want something to hold the
> engine. He led me to the back to a "cherry picker"/engine hoist.
> I said, "Thats not what I want I want an engine stand - you bolt an
> engine to it when you are rebuilding it - you can rotate the engine
> and simplify the whole process." He said, "They make those?"
> "We just put the engine on jack stands." At this point I had endured
> quite enough and left the establishment with both a sense of failure and
> awe. I am still amazed that you can sell parts wtih so little
> knowledge and that no one else in the store stepped up to the plate
> to save the day. Things sure have changed in the parts biz.
>
> -- >>
> Silas--
>
> I once went to a Sears store and asked one of the hardware clerks for a
> nailset. He replied "Sorry, we only sell nails by the box".
>
> Michael
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 22:43:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Just what is an Engine Stand?
Michael
Buddy and I asked my wife to purchase a set of wood chisels for us when she
was out shopping - she made her request and the clerks response was "we
don't have chisels made out of wood" This was 1970. Things haven't changed!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 7/5/00 8:25:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time, spe00@amdahl.com
> writes:
>
> << Well I thought I had seen it all, but beware of who is
> selling you your parts. I am about to blast and primer my healey frame.
> Looked at a picture in the archives of a rotisserie that used
> two engine stands and a bit more steel to do the job. Went to
> a local well known chain auto parts store to price the engine stands:
>
> I did not see any on the main floor, so I asked at the parts counter.
> "Do you guys sell engine stands?" I got a strange look - like I was
> being dumb and didn't know what I was asking for. Then he said, "You mean
> something to lift the engine up?" No. I want something to hold the
> engine. He led me to the back to a "cherry picker"/engine hoist.
> I said, "Thats not what I want I want an engine stand - you bolt an
> engine to it when you are rebuilding it - you can rotate the engine
> and simplify the whole process." He said, "They make those?"
> "We just put the engine on jack stands." At this point I had endured
> quite enough and left the establishment with both a sense of failure and
> awe. I am still amazed that you can sell parts wtih so little
> knowledge and that no one else in the store stepped up to the plate
> to save the day. Things sure have changed in the parts biz.
>
> -- >>
> Silas--
>
> I once went to a Sears store and asked one of the hardware clerks for a
> nailset. He replied "Sorry, we only sell nails by the box".
>
> Michael
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 08:29:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
Steve -
This may sound dumb, but are you sure the thing you heard sliding around
wasn't the float from end of the arm on the fuel sender unit?
If not, the gremlins can probably be made to seek out an MG or TR6 if you
run a light guage wire from one of the bolts holding the sending unit to the
tank to one of the machine screws that provide the return path for the rear
lights. I believe the jumping arround and/or flickering is caused by dirt
etc. on contacts and/or the casual nature of the way the gas tank is
grounded. The new wire corrects the later. Cleaning the contact/nut on the
gauge sender unit fixes the former.
Lee
62 Mk II Tri-carb
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 9:51 PM
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
>
>I just put a new tank and sending unit in my BJ8. The old tank had
>something rather large sliding around in it, and I always assumed it must
be
>a baffle broken loose because the gauge waved about when less than full,
>especially when accelerating or decelerating. Now, not only does it wave
as
>before, it occasionally snaps quickly from side to side (full to empty and
>back) and then vibrates somewhere around the correct reading. When it's
not
>doing this, it's pretty steady and correct. Electrical gremlins, I
>suppose.
>
>......And then there was the time I headed out of town at 3:00 am for a
>distant car show, with a full tank of gas. Just about to enter the
boonies,
>I noticed my gauge (usually reliable) said I had 1/4 tank! That's when I
>discovered what happens when a float sinks to the bottom of a carb. I just
>thank my lucky stars that I had learned about the (missing) overflow tubes
>shortly before and had replaced them. I never smelled any gas, either.
>Barely managed to get back to the only open gas station and filled up. Ten
>miles later when I got home, I was back to 1/4 tank.
>
>Steve Byers
>HBJ8L/36666 - TARHEELY
>Havelock, NC USA
>"It is better to remain silent, and be thought a fool
>than to speak, and remove all doubt" -- Mark Twain
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
>To: neilberg@telus.net <neilberg@telus.net>; healeys@autox.team.net
><healeys@autox.team.net>
>Date: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 8:56 PM
>Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
>
>
>>
>>
>>In a message dated 7/5/00 4:16:30 PM, neilberg@telus.net writes:
>>
>><< While on the topic of fuel senders etc. I was wondering about how
linear
>>the
>>gage/sender is. Mine shows full for guite some time and then falls
quickly.
>>I get a little nervous when it gets down to 1/8 tank so always fill it up.
>>Also when the gas is sloshing about in the tank the gage needle bounces
>>about, I gather this is because there are no tank baffles. Is this
normal
>>behaviour or are there fixes for these little oddities...Neil >>
>>
>>I kind of like the semaphore effect as the tank gets low -- sort of acts
as
>a
>>visual warning, like the red light on my Jag. However, I rely much more
on
>>my trip odometer to tell when I need to fill up. I always fill it up at
>the
>>next opportunity after the trip odometer shows 160 miles. I can get as
>much
>>as 210 on a long-distance trip, but try not to do that. On long trips I
>make
>>it a rule always to fill up whenever anyone else does.
>>
>>Cheers
>>gary
>>
>
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 08:55:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Bad Experience...Gas
I don't know anything about this problem. Can somebody point me to a
reference?
Lee
'62 Mk II Tri-carb
> Isn't it remarkable how much gas can be pumped out of a car with such a
>low velocity pump. I've been there as well with stuck needles in my float
>bowls but no overflow tubes....scary to see where it runs and what it hits
>before the it gets to the ground. (I now have them, P.O. never put them in)
> Just last week I had the second jet line release from one of my float
>bowls, I have to wonder about the person who rebuilt them or maybe they
just
>weren't done either. Anyway overflow tubes don't do much good in this
>situation, the gas runs straight down over the exhaust manifold....good
>reason to carry an extinguisher. I found if you have to ever remove the jet
>line make sure you replace the rubber olive. The old one swells and is hard
>to get in without mushing it and it's not worth the chance that it will
>fail. I will do the other 2 shortly. This one scared the hell out of
>me....Neil
>
>
>> ......And then there was the time I headed out of town at 3:00 am for a
>> distant car show, with a full tank of gas. Just about to enter the
>boonies,
>> I noticed my gauge (usually reliable) said I had 1/4 tank! That's when I
>> discovered what happens when a float sinks to the bottom of a carb. I
>just
>> thank my lucky stars that I had learned about the (missing) overflow
tubes
>> shortly before and had replaced them. I never smelled any gas, either.
>> Barely managed to get back to the only open gas station and filled up.
>Ten
>> miles later when I got home, I was back to 1/4 tank.
>>
>> Steve Byers
>> HBJ8L/36666 - TARHEELY
>> Havelock, NC USA
>> "It is better to remain silent, and be thought a fool
>> than to speak, and remove all doubt" -- Mark Twain
>
>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 09:42:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine Stand "Long but worth it"
Satch Carlson Autoweek Feb 86 (LIFE IN THE FAST LANE)
He's a swindler and a con man, a liar and a thief. He's your Main Man, The
Connection, when you need him. He connives and deals and stores up trivial
information in a mind like an Apple II computer.
He's an artist.
He's the Parts Man.
Ha! I sing the noble praises of the guy who holds up counters, drinks bad
coffee all day every day and knows which spark plugs aught to fit your clapped
out heap.
The Parts Man: The guy who waits on everybody else first. The guy doubles the
prices and adds another hundred percent for freight. The guy who tells you with
the sincerity of an undertaker that he phoned the order in himself, last week,
and the darn thing must be lost in the mail.
You couldn't live without him.
I've been on the other side of the counter, so I understand; I know how he
thinks, I know what makes him crazy beside bad coffee: inventories.
The parts man has to have parts. That's what he sells. And the parts man, the
true Parts Man, considers it a personal failure if he doesn't have exactly what
you need. And this means he has about half a million dollars tied up in very
odd bits that will never see the light of day, just so you can faint in
surprise when he hands you (with offhand flourish) the started solenoid for a
Singer. That solenoid has been sitting on a shelf, tying up capital and taking
up space for maybe a decade, and I assure you that the parts man is so grateful
that you finally bought it that he's liable to give it to you, free. (No I take
that back; the parts man is a player; but the rules of the game say that
nothing is free.)
Then worried that somebody will need another such solenoid tomorrow, he orders
another to take its place, to rot away for another few years.
The parts man lives (as do journalists and gossip columnists) for the thrill
of being an insider. What he likes most of all, that mainline charge of the
parts game , is knowing how to get you something nobody else con find.
Sometimes this means discovering the new Hot Set -Up before anybody else, but
more often it means knowing there is an odd warehouse in New Jersey that has
the off-side mudflap for an MG TD. Watch his eyes as you pour out your tale of
woe--- "Gee, the car's been down for six months 'cause nobody can find me an
oil pump; I guess they aren't making ''em any more" ---- and you'll know by the
subtle narrowing of his eyes ;that ;the parts man is scheming, but he will
never tell you anything. Never. Parts men never reveal their sources. They
don't even share them with other parts men in the same store (maybe especially
with other guys in the same store), and the most incredibly gauche mistake you
can make is to ask a parts man if you can borrow his parts catalogues. The look
he'll give you is one of disbelief, tinged with horror. Share the Sacred
Scrolls? Gor blimey! Sacre bleu!
Oh, I kno, you're the guy with the mail order catalogues. You hate your local
parts man, and you can get stuff cheaper through the mail. besides, many parts
men use the same sources you do: M.G. Mitten, Vilem B. Haan, etc. Why not save
a buck? So you buy your new toy, and you wax it up with your mail order
carnuba, cover it with your mail-order, custom-fitted car cover, and stand it
on your mail-order slick-o tires, and maybe you even go racing, completely
outfitted in your mail-order Randy Racer suit and your natty mail-order driving
gloves and your thrilling mail-order carburetors.
Ha, you think, your mail-order hair rippling in the spring breeze, boy, I sure
am having fun, and I didn't even have to put up with any insults from that
smart aleck guy at the parts store, and then suddenly something goes "Sprong!"
and you leap out and open the hood and oh, NO, we need a KANOOTEN VALVE, can't
win the race without it, where are we gonna get one, it's already five o'clock
and tomorrow's Sunday and the races start at nine, oh God, and maybe I can call
the PARTS MAN and he'll come down and open the shop.....
Only, you can't call the parts man because his shop went Tango Uniform because
every snotty sportscar guy in town has been so busy saving dimes and quarters
that nobody noticed when the parts man couldn't pay his rent, and now he's
doing something sensible like selling insurance.
No he is no saint, the parts man. He has this compulsion, you see, to be
pulling off his secret deals, and the Skillful Mark-Up is his daily fix. He'd
lie to his own mother about the special order he was supposed to have sent out
last week (only he got busy trying to find a brake cylinder rebuild kit for a
Datsun 2000 and forgot about it; the parts man has an amazing recall of trivial
information on parts for millions of cars, and a mind like a sieve when it
comes to placing special orders): the minute she walks out the store , intent
on upbraiding the mailman, our hero's on the phone wheeling, dealing and
invoking the holy name on UPS Blue Label.
But let's have a moment of sympathy as we look around his cluttered store, as
the gross of widgets he got for a steal that somehow nobody ever wanted; at the
special order yellow ko-ko mats that the customer never picked up; at the 58mm
side draft Webers he ordered knowing that nobody would ever buy the darned
things, but anxious just to see one.
Support your local parts man. You gonna miss him when he's gone.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Don Yarber wrote:
> I thought all the dumb people lived in my town.
>
> We went to a Pizza Hut recently for a pizza. The girl dropped our silver
> ware on the floor. Instead of picking it up, she deliberately kicked it
> under the counter.
>
> She took our order, never said thanks and never once offered to re-fill my
> coffee. We ordered two pizzas, the second one for $7.
> There was a sign on the counter that said, "If we don't show you your pizza
> to take out, it is free"
> She failed to show it to us. I demanded it free. The manager said she
> would have to put our name in a book and the next time we came in we would
> get a free pizza.
> I informed her that the sign did not spell out such stipulation and we
> insisted and eventually got the pizza free.
> Then at another restaurant three days later I specifically asked the
> waitress if they took "American Express" and was told yes..they took "all
> kinds of credit cards". When I went to pay the tab, they informed me that
> my AMEX card wasn't welcome there.
> I insisted that I was told it would be accepted and eventually got the meal
> free.
>
> What's all this have to do with Austin Healeys???
>
> Nothing.
>
> But the point is that good help is hard to find now-a-days and if you are
> looking for something specific for an Austin Healey, you should go to the
> Austin Healey people. I've given up on "fast service" places.
> Like one person said, they pay minimum wage and they have minimum
> brain-power people working there.
>
> Don
> BN7
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 10:16:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine Stand "Long but worth it"
In a message dated 07/06/2000 8:42:30 AM Central Daylight Time,
magicare@home.com writes:
<< Satch Carlson >>
One of the greatest losses the automotive press ever had!
Ed
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 10:14:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Just what is an Engine Stand?
True story - I was in the automotive paint section at Canadian
Tire when two young Italian fellows in the next aisle over are
asking an elderly woman clerk about painting their car. After
about 15 minutes of educating themselves (and the clerk) on the
various brands, prices, oil vs waterbased etc, they walked out
with a gallon of red exterior house paint.
Then there was the other time at CTC I ordered from the parts
counter a length of fuel line. One counter guy yells at the other,
hey Gino - how many inches are there in a foot?
Mike L
60A,67E,59Bug
From Rebeltown at aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 10:56:18 EDT
Subject: rear wheel spin balance
I have found a shop in central Jersey that can spin balance the rear tires
/wheels while on the car. This is the start of me trying to get rid of that
dreaded scuttle shake once and for all. I am getting the rear brake drums
balanced today and if this doesn't work then I will think about getting the
rear wheel assemblies balanced while on the car but I need to find out if it
is OK to spin these wheels at 70 MPH while the engine is off and the gearbox
in neutral without damaging any drive train parts!! Anybody have any
experience having this type of balancing done on the car and were there any
precautions to take? If everything goes OK with the balancing and I still I
the shakes I guess the next stop is having the driveshaft balanced. Will
keep you abreast of the results. Gary S. 67 BJ8 #38427 NJ
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 10:59:25 -0400
Subject: Re:Fuel sender ground
Regarding the fuel sender ground.
We have run into this problem on a number of occasions when new tanks are fitted
to Healeys.
My theory is :
The original tank grounding was through the fuel line. The original fuel lines
were steel with brass fittings right to the fuel pump. The body of the pump was
grounded both through the mount bracket and the seperate ground wire.
The problems occur when the original fuel line is replaced with a neoprene line.
Even when this was the case before the tank is changed the grounding could have
been through the rivets that hold the padding on the straps or where the tank
was touching the body somewhere. The problem is that the new tank is painted and
thus the previous conduction path may not work.
That is my theory.
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
"Lee S. Mairs" wrote:
> A ground wire from the sending unit to one of the tail light grounds
> restored proper operation. My long suffering, 82 year old helper and I had
> a glorious ride around the block and thru the neighborhood - and uncovered a
> host more of problems do be dealt with at a later date!
> I can't figure out how it worked previously. Either the tank grounded
> itself on the frame (thru paint, dirt, grease, and undercoating) or their
> was a connection thru the armored fuel line to the fuel pump (not likely as
> it was connected at both ends with hose clamps. Oh well...
> Lee Mairs
> '62 MkII Tri-carb (Isn't that redundant??)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jhayspu@aol.com <Jhayspu@aol.com>
> To: lmairs@ix.netcom.com <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
> Date: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 4:16 PM
> Subject: Re: Almost there...
>
> >In theory, the tank is grounded to the frame. However, when insulating
> >material is used to seat the tank, no ground. Some suggest grounding the
> >unit to the frame via an owner installed wire from one of the screw heads
> to
> >the frame. Try an alligator clip to see if it does any good. Other than
> >that, watch the odometer and estimate.
> >
> >Dr. Jerry Hay
> >Associate Professor
> >Spalding University
> >851 South Fourth Street
> >Louisville, KY 40203
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 11:46:55 -0400
Subject: Re: rear wheel spin balance
Hi Gary,
IMHO be a little careful spinning up one wheel on the back. This is worse than
spinning one wheel in ice. The diff spider gears are only on plain bearings and
prolonged spinning can cause rapid wear.
This problem is exagerated when a balancer driver is used to spin up one wheel
without the driveshaft spinning because the the spider gears are not being
lubricated as a result of the non rotation of the crownwheel.
The best way to drive the rear wheels for on the car balancing is with the
engine.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Rebeltown@aol.com wrote:
> I have found a shop in central Jersey that can spin balance the rear tires
> /wheels while on the car. This is the start of me trying to get rid of that
> dreaded scuttle shake once and for all. I am getting the rear brake drums
> balanced today and if this doesn't work then I will think about getting the
> rear wheel assemblies balanced while on the car but I need to find out if it
> is OK to spin these wheels at 70 MPH while the engine is off and the gearbox
> in neutral without damaging any drive train parts!! Anybody have any
> experience having this type of balancing done on the car and were there any
> precautions to take? If everything goes OK with the balancing and I still I
> the shakes I guess the next stop is having the driveshaft balanced. Will
> keep you abreast of the results. Gary S. 67 BJ8 #38427 NJ
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 11:59:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Just what is an Engine Stand?
In a message dated 7/5/00 7:36:39 PM, bt7@pppatch.com writes:
<< The last time my wife was willing to go into a parts store was maybe '69.
She wanted a 50 amp fuse for the bt7. In their best "now little lady"
voices the entire staff assured her there was no such thing. Yes, the 15
amp fuses had "15 A" stamped on one end, but the "50 A" stamped on the end
our blown fuse meant something else (they didn't know what). This was at a
supposed foreign car parts place.
That was just after the bozo at the Shell station told her nobody made
windshield wiper blades as short as the ones he was looking at. >>
Now I've got it figured out -- all the geeks who used to be behind the
counters at the auto parts stores, dumping on those of us who didn't know a
flat head from a fuelie have sent their kids to work at the computer stores,
where they can dump on us for not knowing a jpeg from a scuzzy bus.
In the meantime, there's always a store where the clerks know nothing at all
except how to put stuff on the shelves and operate the cash register.
They're called "Pep Boys" and "Fry's.
Cheers
Gary
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 09:19:29 -0700
Subject: Re: rear wheel spin balance
Hi Gary,
This subject brings up a question I've wanted to ask:
If you spin balance the wheels on the car, will the "perfect" balance be
off when you remove a wheel and replace it with an altered spline
engagement? Maybe there is a method for marking the wheel and axle
splines and making sure you align them accurately when replacing the
wheel that I don't know about.
Regards,
John Loftus
Rebeltown@aol.com wrote:
>
> I have found a shop in central Jersey that can spin balance the rear tires
> /wheels while on the car. This is the start of me trying to get rid of that
> dreaded scuttle shake once and for all. I am getting the rear brake drums
> balanced today and if this doesn't work then I will think about getting the
> rear wheel assemblies balanced while on the car but I need to find out if it
> is OK to spin these wheels at 70 MPH while the engine is off and the gearbox
> in neutral without damaging any drive train parts!! Anybody have any
> experience having this type of balancing done on the car and were there any
> precautions to take? If everything goes OK with the balancing and I still I
> the shakes I guess the next stop is having the driveshaft balanced. Will
> keep you abreast of the results. Gary S. 67 BJ8 #38427 NJ
>
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 10:37:46 -0600
Subject: Re: rear wheel spin balance
Yep,
Maked mine with a small center punch mark on the brake drum opposite the
tube valve. problematic with frnt dics.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 10:19 AM
Subject: Re: rear wheel spin balance
>
> Hi Gary,
>
> This subject brings up a question I've wanted to ask:
>
> If you spin balance the wheels on the car, will the "perfect" balance be
> off when you remove a wheel and replace it with an altered spline
> engagement? Maybe there is a method for marking the wheel and axle
> splines and making sure you align them accurately when replacing the
> wheel that I don't know about.
>
> Regards,
> John Loftus
>
> Rebeltown@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > I have found a shop in central Jersey that can spin balance the rear
tires
> > /wheels while on the car. This is the start of me trying to get rid of
that
> > dreaded scuttle shake once and for all. I am getting the rear brake
drums
> > balanced today and if this doesn't work then I will think about getting
the
> > rear wheel assemblies balanced while on the car but I need to find out
if it
> > is OK to spin these wheels at 70 MPH while the engine is off and the
gearbox
> > in neutral without damaging any drive train parts!! Anybody have any
> > experience having this type of balancing done on the car and were there
any
> > precautions to take? If everything goes OK with the balancing and I
still I
> > the shakes I guess the next stop is having the driveshaft balanced.
Will
> > keep you abreast of the results. Gary S. 67 BJ8 #38427 NJ
> >
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 12:41:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine Stand "Long but worth it"
In a message dated 7/6/00 7:03:49 AM, magicare@home.com writes:
<< Support your local parts man. You gonna miss him when he's gone.
--
Regards, >>
Thanks for sharing that, Mike. A great piece of auto writing and, alas,
becoming more and more a piece of nostalgia. Except for a few exceptions,
like Inan and Sheila. Come to think of it, should it have been the "Healey
Parts Woman?"
Cheers
Gary
From Susan and John Roper <vscjohn at huntnet.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 12:25:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine Stand "Long but worth it"
Ed, Satch just got too busy diddlin' little girls, or was it boys. No
time for writing. John
JustBrits@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 07/06/2000 8:42:30 AM Central Daylight Time,
> magicare@home.com writes:
>
> << Satch Carlson >>
>
> One of the greatest losses the automotive press ever had!
>
> Ed
From "the real Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 16:36:41 -0400
Subject: NGK plugs
I agree with the pro-NGK sentiments expressed on the list lately, but the
correct NGK plug for Healeys (and many other British cars) is BP6ES,
not BP5ES.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
From RAntal243 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 17:03:26 EDT
Subject: Re: NGK plugs
Doug,
Other than one digit, what is the difference between the NGK BP5ES and
the BP6ES? What would one gain or lose by having the one versus the other?
/thanks..........Rich Antal
From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 15:14:00 -0600
Subject: Steering idler
After a new seal and bushes I still have end float in the idler with one
joint washer. If I remove the the joint washer the idler is to tight and
doesn't spin freely as recommended by the manuals. If I add more joint
washers then it should be looser or more end float. Is this correct or will
more joint washers tighten it up also? I did not have an extra one to try.
Thanks for the help.
Ross Maylor
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 17:48:21 -0500
Subject: RE: Steering idler
Hi Ross,
Adding washers will make the float increase. You may want to try cutting
your own washer out of thinner paper. It should have just a tiny bit of
float when done.
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Ross Maylor [mailto:obiedog@telusplanet.net]
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 2:14 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Steering idler
After a new seal and bushes I still have end float in the idler with one
joint washer. If I remove the the joint washer the idler is to tight and
doesn't spin freely as recommended by the manuals. If I add more joint
washers then it should be looser or more end float. Is this correct or will
more joint washers tighten it up also? I did not have an extra one to try.
Thanks for the help.
Ross Maylor
From "Simon Sabel" <simon.sabel at flinthouse.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 23:39:16 +0100
Subject: Re: RE: Just read in Machine Design...
Please, I think everyone is fascinated with this technology .
Simon
'56 BN4
>
> I understand that someone in Germany has already done it.
> However the cost is very high. I can try to obtain more information if
> desired.
> Bob Humphreys
>
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 16:30:39 -0700
Subject: RE: Just what is an Engine Stand?
I waited in the dark here, lurking and watching this thread for a
while. Finally, I have to give my $.02 worth.
I started in the parts industry right out of college, always liked
cars, had a couple of TR6's already. I started on the counter at a large
independent parts store and moved around as I progressed in my career. I
always specialized in European cars. Spent time selling Fiat!! and Alfa
parts, managed a Mercedes dealer parts department. All here in Northern CA.
I have been witness to the dumbing down of the average parts guy (or girl)
from the inside. Have lost jobs and people to the "we'll get better
computers and programs and hire cheaper, less qualified people" syndrome.
Most of the good partsmen I know have moved on to the better paying jobs
that their skills and intelligence qualify them for. Look at the title I
have at the tail of this e-mail, I've moved to a high-tech web based firm
that pays me well, a far cry from the struggle, low pay, long hours and
weekends that were a part of the retail parts industry. There are NO
independent parts stores left here in Sacramento, well, there may be one or
two, but, I haven't seen them. This is the wave of the future, huge chains
with moderately skilled workers plodding their way through 'til the next pay
check. The good people still in the industry are employed behind the
scenes at places that sell wholesale to repair shops. They get paid well
and work decent hours. The others are in management at the big chains...
I can think of 7, maybe more, people that used to own their own stores,
that now manage for NA... ,um, one of the big chains..
So, when you wouldn't go to your local independent, you went instead
to the chain to get oil for 8 cents a quart less, or ordered your parts
through the mail to save a couple of bucks, you made your local skilled
parts professional go elsewhere as well.
Sorry about the soapbox oratory, I have to go now to buy some oil
on sale at Kragen's on sale for 79c a quart for the racecar (rotary engine,
cheap oil is better!) :)
I'll let ya'll know when I progress on the FI system.
Have a good weekend, JP
John Pagel
Order Quality Assurance
tel 888-iMotors
fax 916-686-7818
john.pagel@imotors.com
You've never bought a used car like this!
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 9:00 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Just what is an Engine Stand?
In a message dated 7/5/00 7:36:39 PM, bt7@pppatch.com writes:
<< The last time my wife was willing to go into a parts store was maybe '69.
She wanted a 50 amp fuse for the bt7. In their best "now little lady"
voices the entire staff assured her there was no such thing. Yes, the 15
amp fuses had "15 A" stamped on one end, but the "50 A" stamped on the end
our blown fuse meant something else (they didn't know what). This was at a
supposed foreign car parts place.
That was just after the bozo at the Shell station told her nobody made
windshield wiper blades as short as the ones he was looking at. >>
Now I've got it figured out -- all the geeks who used to be behind the
counters at the auto parts stores, dumping on those of us who didn't know a
flat head from a fuelie have sent their kids to work at the computer stores,
where they can dump on us for not knowing a jpeg from a scuzzy bus.
In the meantime, there's always a store where the clerks know nothing at all
except how to put stuff on the shelves and operate the cash register.
They're called "Pep Boys" and "Fry's.
Cheers
Gary
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 19:31:52 EDT
Subject: Wander Indiana Tour
For those of you heading towards Conclave in a few weeks I will be hosting a
"Wander Indiana" (state tourism motto) Tour.
We will meet at ten AM (Eastern Daylight Time) on Sunday, July 23 at the
Thornton's Gas Station in Jeffersonville, Indiana. Exit 0 off of I-65 just as
you cross the Ohio River.
I have a scenic backroads route planned to Indianapolis including a lunch
stop at a historic Inn in Story, Indiana.
So far I have ten cars signed up and expect more. Everyone is invited to join
us. Just let me know if you can make it since I have to make lunch
reservations.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 18:39:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Just what is an Engine Stand?
I agree with the whole thread that it isn't all about what you save but the
service you recieve....
I go to my Local Car wax and seat cover store only when nessesary.... ... At
Some point each of us gets to know more then a High School Drop out..... But
I will Give Advance Credit for supplying our Hero's with Several Kinds of
Carnuba and a Fine array of Truck Seat Covers....
Keith ( ahhh the only thing of Value there is Good OIL )
----- Original Message -----
From: Pagel, John <John.Pagel@imotors.com>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 6:30 PM
Subject: RE: Just what is an Engine Stand?
>
> I waited in the dark here, lurking and watching this thread for a
> while. Finally, I have to give my $.02 worth.
>
> I started in the parts industry right out of college, always liked
> cars, had a couple of TR6's already. I started on the counter at a
large
> independent parts store and moved around as I progressed in my career. I
> always specialized in European cars. Spent time selling Fiat!! and Alfa
> parts, managed a Mercedes dealer parts department. All here in Northern
CA.
> I have been witness to the dumbing down of the average parts guy (or girl)
> from the inside. Have lost jobs and people to the "we'll get better
> computers and programs and hire cheaper, less qualified people" syndrome.
> Most of the good partsmen I know have moved on to the better paying jobs
> that their skills and intelligence qualify them for. Look at the title I
> have at the tail of this e-mail, I've moved to a high-tech web based firm
> that pays me well, a far cry from the struggle, low pay, long hours and
> weekends that were a part of the retail parts industry. There are NO
> independent parts stores left here in Sacramento, well, there may be one
or
> two, but, I haven't seen them. This is the wave of the future, huge
chains
> with moderately skilled workers plodding their way through 'til the next
pay
> check. The good people still in the industry are employed behind the
> scenes at places that sell wholesale to repair shops. They get paid well
> and work decent hours. The others are in management at the big
chains...
> I can think of 7, maybe more, people that used to own their own stores,
> that now manage for NA... ,um, one of the big chains..
>
> So, when you wouldn't go to your local independent, you went instead
> to the chain to get oil for 8 cents a quart less, or ordered your parts
> through the mail to save a couple of bucks, you made your local skilled
> parts professional go elsewhere as well.
>
> Sorry about the soapbox oratory, I have to go now to buy some oil
> on sale at Kragen's on sale for 79c a quart for the racecar (rotary
engine,
> cheap oil is better!) :)
>
> I'll let ya'll know when I progress on the FI system.
>
> Have a good weekend, JP
>
> John Pagel
> Order Quality Assurance
> tel 888-iMotors
> fax 916-686-7818
> john.pagel@imotors.com
>
> You've never bought a used car like this!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 9:00 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Just what is an Engine Stand?
>
>
> In a message dated 7/5/00 7:36:39 PM, bt7@pppatch.com writes:
>
> << The last time my wife was willing to go into a parts store was maybe
'69.
> She wanted a 50 amp fuse for the bt7. In their best "now little lady"
> voices the entire staff assured her there was no such thing. Yes, the 15
> amp fuses had "15 A" stamped on one end, but the "50 A" stamped on the end
> our blown fuse meant something else (they didn't know what). This was at
a
> supposed foreign car parts place.
>
> That was just after the bozo at the Shell station told her nobody made
> windshield wiper blades as short as the ones he was looking at. >>
>
> Now I've got it figured out -- all the geeks who used to be behind the
> counters at the auto parts stores, dumping on those of us who didn't know
a
> flat head from a fuelie have sent their kids to work at the computer
stores,
> where they can dump on us for not knowing a jpeg from a scuzzy bus.
>
> In the meantime, there's always a store where the clerks know nothing at
all
> except how to put stuff on the shelves and operate the cash register.
> They're called "Pep Boys" and "Fry's.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
>
From "Phil Nase" <pnase at enter.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 20:35:29 -0400
Subject: Re: NGK plugs
Does this include the BN1?
Phil Nase
'55 BN1
> I agree with the pro-NGK sentiments expressed on the list lately, but the
> correct NGK plug for Healeys (and many other British cars) is BP6ES,
> not BP5ES.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 20:55:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine Stand "Long but worth it"
In a message dated 07/06/2000 12:26:08 PM Central Daylight Time,
vscjohn@huntnet.net writes:
<< busy diddlin' >>
Allegedly, John. There was never a "trial", there was never "a further
investigation",
etc., etc...........
It is still IMHO, a GREAT loss to the automotive press world.
Cheers...........
Ed
PS: Even "IF" some sorta "settlement" was worked out. Yeah, I know, sorta
makes me like a VERY liberal (or on other end of scale, conserv.......(nope,
can't)) person.
I JUST plain "MISS" his prose. Period.
From "John A. Vrugtman" <javrugtman at widomaker.com>
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 21:24:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
A strong memory of my new Healey in 64 was the fuel gauge bouncing back and
forth constantly. The dealer (Paris, F) could not cure it, so since then I've
assumed it is only an approximation and used the trip meter to time fuel stops.
John
64 BJ8 Williamsburg, VA
Neil Trelenberg wrote:
> While on the topic of fuel senders etc. I was wondering about how linear the
> gage/sender is. Mine shows full for guite some time and then falls quickly.
> I get a little nervous when it gets down to 1/8 tank so always fill it up.
> Also when the gas is sloshing about in the tank the gage needle bounces
> about, I gather this is because there are no tank baffles. Is this normal
> behaviour or are there fixes for these little oddities...Neil
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 14:21:37 -0400
Subject: Strange numbers
Here's a question for the list,
On the support bracket for the bonnet lock mechanism ( BJ8 ) there are
stamped numbers, what do they mean?
67 H BJ8 L 39745 has this # S 521
64 H BJ8 L 29831 this one 1 477
the first set starts def. with the letter S
the 64 has the number one then its three digits
Any thoughts ? Carroll
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 14:16:40 -0400
Subject: stamped numbers
Here's a question for the list,
On the support bracket for the bonnet lock mechanism ( BJ8 ) there are
stamped numbers, what do they mean?
67 H BJ8 L 39745 has this # S 521
64 H BJ8 L 29831 this one 1 477
the first set starts def. with the letter S
the 64 has the number one then its three digits
Any thoughts ? Carroll
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 19:39:17 +0000
Subject: Re: Just what is an Engine Stand?
All this bemoaning the loss of independent stores and their accompanying
brand of service, good for the most part but probably not as good as it is
remembered, is a real yawn for me. It's a fact. There's nothing that can
bring back what once was. It is gone. Get over it. Maybe, just maybe the net
will supplant some of what we've lost but my gut says it probably won't.
----------
>From: "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel@imotors.com>
>To: "'Editorgary@aol.com'" <Editorgary@aol.com>, healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: RE: Just what is an Engine Stand?
>Date: Thu, Jul 6, 2000, 11:30 PM
>
>
> I waited in the dark here, lurking and watching this thread for a
> while. Finally, I have to give my $.02 worth.
>
> I started in the parts industry right out of college, always liked
> cars, had a couple of TR6's already. I started on the counter at a large
> independent parts store and moved around as I progressed in my career. I
> always specialized in European cars. Spent time selling Fiat!! and Alfa
> parts, managed a Mercedes dealer parts department. All here in Northern CA.
> I have been witness to the dumbing down of the average parts guy (or girl)
> from the inside. Have lost jobs and people to the "we'll get better
> computers and programs and hire cheaper, less qualified people" syndrome.
> Most of the good partsmen I know have moved on to the better paying jobs
> that their skills and intelligence qualify them for. Look at the title I
> have at the tail of this e-mail, I've moved to a high-tech web based firm
> that pays me well, a far cry from the struggle, low pay, long hours and
> weekends that were a part of the retail parts industry. There are NO
> independent parts stores left here in Sacramento, well, there may be one or
> two, but, I haven't seen them. This is the wave of the future, huge chains
> with moderately skilled workers plodding their way through 'til the next pay
> check. The good people still in the industry are employed behind the
> scenes at places that sell wholesale to repair shops. They get paid well
> and work decent hours. The others are in management at the big chains...
> I can think of 7, maybe more, people that used to own their own stores,
> that now manage for NA... ,um, one of the big chains..
>
> So, when you wouldn't go to your local independent, you went instead
> to the chain to get oil for 8 cents a quart less, or ordered your parts
> through the mail to save a couple of bucks, you made your local skilled
> parts professional go elsewhere as well.
>
> Sorry about the soapbox oratory, I have to go now to buy some oil
> on sale at Kragen's on sale for 79c a quart for the racecar (rotary engine,
> cheap oil is better!) :)
>
> I'll let ya'll know when I progress on the FI system.
>
> Have a good weekend, JP
>
> John Pagel
> Order Quality Assurance
> tel 888-iMotors
> fax 916-686-7818
> john.pagel@imotors.com
>
> You've never bought a used car like this!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 9:00 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Just what is an Engine Stand?
>
>
> In a message dated 7/5/00 7:36:39 PM, bt7@pppatch.com writes:
>
> << The last time my wife was willing to go into a parts store was maybe '69.
> She wanted a 50 amp fuse for the bt7. In their best "now little lady"
> voices the entire staff assured her there was no such thing. Yes, the 15
> amp fuses had "15 A" stamped on one end, but the "50 A" stamped on the end
> our blown fuse meant something else (they didn't know what). This was at a
> supposed foreign car parts place.
>
> That was just after the bozo at the Shell station told her nobody made
> windshield wiper blades as short as the ones he was looking at. >>
>
> Now I've got it figured out -- all the geeks who used to be behind the
> counters at the auto parts stores, dumping on those of us who didn't know a
> flat head from a fuelie have sent their kids to work at the computer stores,
> where they can dump on us for not knowing a jpeg from a scuzzy bus.
>
> In the meantime, there's always a store where the clerks know nothing at all
> except how to put stuff on the shelves and operate the cash register.
> They're called "Pep Boys" and "Fry's.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From Susan and John Roper <vscjohn at huntnet.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 22:25:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine Stand "Long but worth it"
Yeah Ed, I miss the prose too, also the guy in one of the big books who wrote
about Volvos, and my obedient servant and a few others. All I've got left is
Pete Egan. Just makes me an old fart living in the past. Care to join? John
JustBrits@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 07/06/2000 12:26:08 PM Central Daylight Time,
> vscjohn@huntnet.net writes:
>
> << busy diddlin' >>
>
> Allegedly, John. There was never a "trial", there was never "a further
> investigation",
> etc., etc...........
>
> It is still IMHO, a GREAT loss to the automotive press world.
>
> Cheers...........
>
> Ed
>
> PS: Even "IF" some sorta "settlement" was worked out. Yeah, I know, sorta
> makes me like a VERY liberal (or on other end of scale, conserv.......(nope,
> can't)) person.
>
> I JUST plain "MISS" his prose. Period.
From JRLNJ at aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 23:27:51 EDT
Subject: Satch Carlson
Satch is not gone...he is currently the editor of the Roundel, the BMWCCA
magazine, and doing a fine job.
Ray
BJ8
528i
From Mr Finespanner <mrfinespanner at blazenet.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 23:38:58 -0700
Subject: Re: NGK plugs
For me, the NGK BP5ES plugs work at extended idle during parades, city
driving, etc. as well as 7000rpm+ without skipping a beat. The "correct"
plug is the one that works best for you, and it is not all that expensive to
experiment.
BTW, some parts stores carry only resistor type plugs that, I believe are
marked as BPR5ES or BPR6ES. My preference is without the resistor - just one
more thing to fail.
Del Border
Tri-Carb OO
the real Mr. Finespanner wrote:
> I agree with the pro-NGK sentiments expressed on the list lately, but the
> correct NGK plug for Healeys (and many other British cars) is BP6ES,
> not BP5ES.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
From Ken Mason <medition at netscape.net>
Date: 6 Jul 00 20:54:03 PDT
Subject: Hub Bearing Spacer
I am starting the long uphill restoration of a BJ7. The rear grease seals
needed to be replaced. When I took it apart, I discovered the absence of the
wheel bearing spacers. They simply were not there. The shop manuals are very
explicit as to the need for these spacers to protrude .001 - .004 beyond the
paper gasket surface that seals between the hub and the axel. It sounds as
though they want the axel to also clamp down onto the wheel bearing upon
tightening. The bearing is already clamped on the inner race with the large
(2-3/16") nut. Since I do not have this (these?) spacers, I do not know what
it (they?) look like. Catalogs simply show what appears to be a large washer
that bears against yhe outer bearing race. If the above dimension is to be
met, adjustments will be req'd. Moss shows the cost to be more than $20 each.
I can only guess that measurement can be done with a straight edge and a
feeler gage. Any one out there been down this road before?
Ken
____________________________________________________________________
From Mr Finespanner <mrfinespanner at blazenet.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 23:56:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Just what is an Engine Stand?
Things haven't changed much. In 1963, I was working in the small town of
Waynesboro, PA. I took my Healey to the "best" garage in town for the mandatory
State safety inspection. They never saw knock-offs and I gladly volunteered to
remove the wheels so they could inspect the brake linings.
They looked at the disc brakes and said that there was no way this car could
pass inspection without brake drums. They had never seen nor heard of disc
brakes and no amount of explanation could convince them that something like this
even existed.
Del Border
Tri-Carb OO
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Now I've got it figured out -- all the geeks who used to be behind the
> counters at the auto parts stores, dumping on those of us who didn't know a
> flat head from a fuelie have sent their kids to work at the computer stores,
> where they can dump on us for not knowing a jpeg from a scuzzy bus.
>
> In the meantime, there's always a store where the clerks know nothing at all
> except how to put stuff on the shelves and operate the cash register.
> They're called "Pep Boys" and "Fry's.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 21:02:19 -0700
Subject: Re: NGK plugs
Doug,
Is the BP6 a hotter running plug?
Terry Blubaugh
"the real Mr. Finespanner" wrote:
> I agree with the pro-NGK sentiments expressed on the list lately, but the
> correct NGK plug for Healeys (and many other British cars) is BP6ES,
> not BP5ES.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
From "F. Ronald Rader" <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 22:40:05 -0700
Subject: Insulation material
Listers:
I am on a mission to make the interior of my BJ8 cooler on warm days
(which is most here in So Cal).
I am looking for the light weight space blanket type material to slip
under the carpet and over the transmission tunnel. I already have the
stuff that is foil on one side and felt on the other and I am looking
for an additional layer. This would be like the space blanket material.
Any ideas on where to find this stuff?
Ron Rader
Marina del Rey CA
1965 BJ8
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 22:54:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Balance
Here is more on wheel balancing than anyone needs to know, but my brain
has gotten so full of automotive trivia I have to get rid of some of it.
I worked for Union Oil Company in the 1970's "promoting" tire sales to
our dealers and selling balancing equipment.
The high speed "on the car spin balance" usually uses Hunter equipment.
The strobe lights are set up on on the ground on either side of the
wheel being balanced. For the front tires, they push a roller against
the tire to spin it up to speed. For the rear tires the car is run in
high gear with the wheel being balanced jacked up off the ground.
Always wondered what they do with posi-traction. This is a horrible job
to do, as the balancer has to lie on his back to reach around to hammer
weights on, but will give the best balance possible as all moving parts
are being balanced . . . brake disc, wheel bearings, knockoff, etc.
The last time I balanced my 1960 BT7's 72 spoke wires with half worn out
old Michelin X 185-15 tires, I had it done at a shop that will still
spin balance on the car. The fronts balanced fine and the passenger
side rear balanced fine running it in fourth gear. When we tried
running the left rear driver's side wheel in fourth gear with the wheel
jacked up, it almost shook the car off the jack. We took the wheel off
and balanced it on a computer spin machine which balanced it fine with
only a medium amount of weight. Bingo! Looks like maybe an
out-of-balance brake drum is causing my 60 to 70 mph shaking for the
past 32 years. Since the right rear ran fine, pretty much eliminates
engine, clutch, transmission or driveshaft causing the shake.
With disc wheels, a large hubcap like balancer can be clamped to the rim
and the wheel is spun up to speed. There is a shaft coming out of the
center with round chrome collars stacked up which spins with the wheel.
The balancer adjusts the collars in or out while they are spinning, the
whole time holding his other hand lightly on the vehicle's fender. You
can watch the shaking of the car disappear like magic as the balancer
adjusts the collars. Their final position tells how much weight and
where to put it on the inner or outer rim. Probably the best balance
possible.
Do not tell them to "put the weights on the inside" as you cannot get a
proper dynamic balance without offsetting both circumference imbalance
as well as inner and outer sidewall imbalance. You might as well use a
bubble balancer if you only want to achieve static balancing. The off
the car "computer" spin balancers can be set for just a static balance
for those who want a pretty good balance yet do not want weights on the
outside for appearance sake. On my lowrider Silverado pickup I don't
want outside weights stuck onto my Boyd Wheels . . . and my $69 BFG T/A
Radials probably aren't worth a precision balance anyway on a truck.
And for you computer geeks who believe in those fancy "computer" spin
balancers the tire shops love . . . I have never been able to get my 911
Porsche's high dollar V-rated Michelins to balance on a computer off the
car spin balancer nearly as well as an on the car spin balancing. At 65
to 70 all the vibration disappears after having the wheels spun balanced
on the car.
Years ago when I worked for Union Oil Company, the Firestone Tire
Representative told me that a radial will set after 50 to 100 miles and
that is when it should then be balanced. I have always bought and
mounted my tires at a friend's shop, then driven a 100 miles or so
before going to the old-timer who will still spin balance on the car.
It may be just an old wives' tale, but I have them balanced at another
shop anyway, so I go ahead and run them for a while first.
I hope this helps clear up some of the mystery of wheel balancing for
some of you.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 23:37:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Insulation material
Ron,
Try the "outdoor camping" department in the local sports store.
(Or Sports Authority at Ontario Mills Mall).
Terry
Diamond Bar
"F. Ronald Rader" wrote:
> Listers:
>
> I am on a mission to make the interior of my BJ8 cooler on warm days
> (which is most here in So Cal).
> I am looking for the light weight space blanket type material to slip
> under the carpet and over the transmission tunnel. I already have the
> stuff that is foil on one side and felt on the other and I am looking
> for an additional layer. This would be like the space blanket material.
> Any ideas on where to find this stuff?
>
> Ron Rader
> Marina del Rey CA
> 1965 BJ8
From "cgsecord" <cgsecord at simcom.on.ca>
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 07:05:58 -0400
Subject: Wheels/tires for 100
Hi listers - I know this topic has been discussed but perhaps not with
particular reference to the 100. My wheels (48 spoke painted) have
about 25,000 miles on them. They are beginning to suffer broken and
loose spokes. In considering replacements, some questions arise. 1:
Would 60 spoke wheels be better for someone who wishes to drive the
car without being unduly cautious? 2: Are 60 spoke wheels available
with an offset to clear front drums? 3: Would they look obviously
wrong on my mostly original car? 4: I prefer 175 x 15 tires. Are
Michelins the only ones available in this size? Thanks for all
opinions.
Graham, 56 100. (yes, I've been here for some time, mostly lurking and
enjoying)
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 07:46:37 -0400
Subject: Re:Dayton Wire Wheels
Hi.....
Can anybody give me the 800 number to reach Robin at Dayton. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 08:59:15 -0400
Subject: Re: NGK plugs
Interestingly Doug there seems to be some disagreement on the question of the
correct NGK plug for the Healey 6 cyl.
NGK's 1980/1981 Catalogue#8002 Pg1 calls for
BP5ES for Austin Healey Sprite, 948, 1098, 3000
BP5ES for 100/M/Six
Their 1986 Catalogue Pg13 calls for
3000 BPR5ES
100,100M, 100/Six BR6ES
Sprite (127cc w/ECS) BPR6ES (Exactly as printed)
(The R[resistor] is probably because of radio interferrence problems)
Champion seems to consistently call for
N5 plugs for 100, 100M & 100Six
N12Y for 3000
NGK says that their equivalent of the N5 is B6ES and the N12Y is BP5ES
The P is for "projected tip" as the combustion chamber is essentially the
same I can see no good reason why "P" plugs should not be used in 100/6s
The differences between N5 and N12Y is the Heat Range
We have fitted 100s of BP5ES plugs to 3000 and 100/6 engines with (as far as
I can remember ) never a problem of any type with the plugs.
Hope that helps to confuse the issue........
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
"the real Mr. Finespanner" wrote:
> I agree with the pro-NGK sentiments expressed on the list lately, but the
> correct NGK plug for Healeys (and many other British cars) is BP6ES,
> not BP5ES.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
From "Dr. C Rubino" <ruvino at recorder.ca>
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 11:20:22 -0400
Subject:
I had an interesting experience a couple of days ago.
After turning a corner I heard the sound of metal on metal. On examination I
found a large (2.5") diameter washer sitting on the frame. In addition to
being large it had a slot cut in the top obviously to help lock it in place.
Well what the heck was it? I simply couldn't figure it out so took it to the
Healey nuts at the Sports Car Factory (hallville.com) and asked the million
dollar question "What is this?" John immediately identified it as the
locking washer for the starter dog nut on the end of the crankshaft that
holds the pulley in place.
Sure enough the dog was missing. How long I have no idea. Why didn't the
pulley fall off and destroy my engine compartment-i have no idea.
The good news is that without too much trouble (pulling the rad) we replaced
both parts and things are safe again.
The bad news is that my wife was with me and it seems that the infrequent
times she deems to ride in the Healey a part falls off (infrequently in both
cases). Nevertheless it has raised her anxiety obout our soon to take place
weekend trip from Perth to Kingston, ferrying across Lake Ontario to Wolf
Island then ferrying to Sacket's Harbour NY then ClaytonNY then home. Did I
say she doesn't like being on water either?
Maybe if she started on a trial of Prozac right away-hm!
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 11:54:26 EDT
Subject: Re: stamped numbers
We researched this question when writing our restoration book and documented
the info there. As nearly as we have been able to determine, this number was
stamped on the panels that were removed during assembly in order to get them
back on the right car. If your hood and trunk lid are original, they should
both have the same number stamped on them, and it should match the number
stamped on the lock release support shelf. On the 3000s, they don't match
any other number on the car (in contrast to the 100s, at least up through the
first series BN4s, where numbers stamped in these locations matched the body
number.)
Cheers
Gary Anderson
In a message dated 7/6/00 7:31:41 PM, bjcap@frontiernet.net writes:
<<
On the support bracket for the bonnet lock mechanism ( BJ8 ) there are
stamped numbers, what do they mean?
67 H BJ8 L 39745 has this # S 521
64 H BJ8 L 29831 this one 1 477
the first set starts def. with the letter S
the 64 has the number one then its three digits
Any thoughts ? Carroll >>
From "Sam Bagby" <sbagby at swcp.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 11:23:25 -0600
Subject: Re: Just what is an Engine Stand?
-----Original Message-----
From: Silas Elash <spe00@amdahl.com>
To: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 6:25 PM
Subject: Just what is an Engine Stand?
Having seen some of the responses to this, I decided to share one of my own.
!5 years ago, I was into drag racing pretty heavy and campained a 23' ford
roadster (altered) powered by an alcohol injected small block Chevy.
One winter during the annual engine refurbishing, I decided to replace my
roller lifters. I looked through my library of mail order catalogs and found
the proper part number for the brand that Super Shops carried.
I strolled up to the counter manned by an experienced "Hot Rodder" and was
immediatly underwhelmed by the quantity of peach fuzz that adorned this
blemish faced valve cover salesman. At first I was concerned that he
wouldn't be of much help, but I looked through the glass counter top and as
luck would have it, the exact 200.00 box of parts I wanted was right there.
I pointed and said "I want those". Although doing his darndest to assist me,
he insisted on knowing what year and make of car it was for. I finally broke
down and told him it was for a 23 Ford. He informed me that these would not
fit the engine and If I attempted to install them, they couldn't be
returned. Silly me, I bought them anyway and dang if they didn't fit
perfectly.
Sam Bagby
Albuquerque,NM
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 22:17:39 -0700
Subject: Re: Wheels/tires for 100
I've been driving my 1955 BN1 with 185-15s for several years. Thye're
mounted on 72-spoke wheels and fit easily. I keep one 48-spoke tire for
a spare (the 185s won't fit in the trunk slot). John Trifari 1955
BN1/1965 BJ8
cgsecord wrote:
>
> Hi listers - I know this topic has been discussed but perhaps not with
> particular reference to the 100. My wheels (48 spoke painted) have
> about 25,000 miles on them. They are beginning to suffer broken and
> loose spokes. In considering replacements, some questions arise. 1:
> Would 60 spoke wheels be better for someone who wishes to drive the
> car without being unduly cautious? 2: Are 60 spoke wheels available
> with an offset to clear front drums? 3: Would they look obviously
> wrong on my mostly original car? 4: I prefer 175 x 15 tires. Are
> Michelins the only ones available in this size? Thanks for all
> opinions.
> Graham, 56 100. (yes, I've been here for some time, mostly lurking and
> enjoying)
From Kent Lacy <oxballs at netzero.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 14:04:05 -0400
Subject: Re: free pizzas
No free coffee refill and the waitress didn't show you your pizza - Well now
Don that's an amazing story. What makes it even more astonishing is that
you saw fit to share it with us. Yesterday the folks at the Pizza Hut knew you
were a world class jerk, today the Healey community knows, tomorrow the
world. I'm sure your wife and kids were awfully proud of you.
My daughter, who earned a little spending money working in a Pizza Hut
while in high school, had these interesting comments.
1. Your dissatisfaction with your waitress' conduct was most likely a result of
her being too busy and trying to get everyone's order to them as quickly as
possible. She's sure you didn't notice, but you weren't her only customer.
2. Your free pizza probably came out of her salary. About 2 hours work out
of her take home pay I'd guess.
3. If you've ever returned to that Pizza Hut and were recognized, you did
indeed pay for those pizzas, and you paid dearly. I understand you can
rub a stick of pepperoni in some interesting places.
If you'll let me know which Pizza Hut you took advantage of, I'd like to pay
your bill and settle up with your waitress, because if you drove your Healey
there I'm afraid someone might think we're acquaintances.
Kent
Don Yarber wrote:
> I thought all the dumb people lived in my town.
>
> We went to a Pizza Hut recently for a pizza. The girl dropped our silver
> ware on the floor. Instead of picking it up, she deliberately kicked it
> under the counter.
>
> She took our order, never said thanks and never once offered to re-fill my
> coffee. We ordered two pizzas, the second one for $7.
> There was a sign on the counter that said, "If we don't show you your pizza
> to take out, it is free"
> She failed to show it to us. I demanded it free. The manager said she
> would have to put our name in a book and the next time we came in we would
> get a free pizza.
> I informed her that the sign did not spell out such stipulation and we
> insisted and eventually got the pizza free.
> Then at another restaurant three days later I specifically asked the
> waitress if they took "American Express" and was told yes..they took "all
> kinds of credit cards". When I went to pay the tab, they informed me that
> my AMEX card wasn't welcome there.
> I insisted that I was told it would be accepted and eventually got the meal
> free.
>
> What's all this have to do with Austin Healeys???
>
> Nothing.
>
> But the point is that good help is hard to find now-a-days and if you are
> looking for something specific for an Austin Healey, you should go to the
> Austin Healey people. I've given up on "fast service" places.
> Like one person said, they pay minimum wage and they have minimum
> brain-power people working there.
>
> Don
> BN7
_______________________________________________
Why pay for something you could get for free?
NetZero provides FREE Internet Access and Email
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 14:21:46 -0400
Subject: Personal Attacks
I guess Kent Lacy doesn't know me very well.
I never make personal attacks on people on the list.
>. Yesterday the folks at the Pizza Hut knew you
were a world class jerk, today the Healey community knows, tomorrow the
world. I'm sure your wife and kids were awfully proud of you.<
My story about the incident at Pizza Hut was in a thread that concerned
large corporations taking over what was once independent business and
replacing dedicated workers with minimum wage (minimum IQ) people.
Austin Healey owners generally are not as quick to call other Austin Healey
owners "a World Class Jerk". If I am a "jerk" for expressing my opinion, so
be it. I may not agree with everything said on this list, but I will defend
until my dying breath everyone's right to say it.
Don
,
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 16:14:09 EDT
Subject: Fwd:
--part1_48.7d17dac.26979411_boundary
--part1_48.7d17dac.26979411_boundary
Content-Disposition: inline
Return-path: <JSoderling@aol.com>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
Full-name: JSoderling
Message-ID: <b4.7aabc2e.269793c1@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 16:12:49 EDT
Subject: Re:
To: ruvino@recorder.ca
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 108
In a message dated 7/7/00 8:49:24 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
ruvino@recorder.ca writes:
Dr. Rubino writes:
<<
The bad news is that my wife was with me and it seems that the infrequent
times she deems to ride in the Healey a part falls off (infrequently in both
cases). Nevertheless it has raised her anxiety obout our soon to take place
weekend trip from Perth to Kingston, ferrying across Lake Ontario to Wolf
Island then ferrying to Sacket's Harbour NY then ClaytonNY then home. Did I
say she doesn't like being on water either?
Maybe if she started on a trial of Prozac right away-hm! >>
Healeys must know when we have a reluctant wife on board. My wife seldom
will ride with me but she was along the only time "Erika the Red" ever failed
to start, and the one time I had a tire, steel belt separation. I'm thinking
"Erika" is just plain jealous!!
John
100-Six Erika the Red
--part1_48.7d17dac.26979411_boundary--
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 16:15:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Wheels/tires for 100
I'll let those more familiar than I worry about what wheel will fit over the
front drum brakes. However, I can pass on some info I've been developing for
a tire article I'm writing at the moment.
In our humble opinion, 165x15 tires look best on the Healeys, and the best of
these are Dunlop SP20 radials. They're actually made by the Dunlop company
(for classic Beetles,) so they're a modern tire made with modern materials.
The Michelin ZX 175x15s have a similar appearance (actually, their tread
pattern for some reason is that of the now extinct Pirelli 165x15 tires). The
drawback is that these are reproductions of original ZX tires and so don't
offer as good a ride or traction as the Dunlops. They are a little wider with
the same aspect ratio, so they have a slightly larger rolling radius than the
Dunlops and some people like them because they are a little closer in size to
the original Dunlop Roadspeeds.
If you go to a 185 tire -- mounted on a 72 spoke 5-inch wide wheel -- many
people use Bridgestones, but I'd recommend you consider Vredesteins, made in
Holland. These tires have a long tradition in Europe and are excellent, as
well as being very nice looking.side wall and tread appearance.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 16:27:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Hub Bearing Spacer
Hi Ken,
The spacer that you are refering to ATC7569 is a steel ring 3.317" OD 2.804"
ID0.185" thick with a 0.080" chamfer on each of the outer edges.
We have used ones at $14.95 ea
If the hub is not worn as a result of the outer of the bearing spinning in it
the
you will find that the preload works out fine and no adjustment is required.
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Ken Mason wrote:
> I am starting the long uphill restoration of a BJ7. The rear grease seals
> needed to be replaced. When I took it apart, I discovered the absence of the
> wheel bearing spacers. They simply were not there. The shop manuals are very
> explicit as to the need for these spacers to protrude .001 - .004 beyond the
> paper gasket surface that seals between the hub and the axel. It sounds as
> though they want the axel to also clamp down onto the wheel bearing upon
> tightening. The bearing is already clamped on the inner race with the large
> (2-3/16") nut. Since I do not have this (these?) spacers, I do not know what
> it (they?) look like. Catalogs simply show what appears to be a large washer
> that bears against yhe outer bearing race. If the above dimension is to be
> met, adjustments will be req'd. Moss shows the cost to be more than $20 each.
> I can only guess that measurement can be done with a straight edge and a
> feeler gage. Any one out there been down this road before?
>
> Ken
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
From "the real Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 17:36:30 -0400
Subject: Re: NGK plugs
Mike,
Just to add to the confusion, the 1993 NGK catalog lists B6ES, BP6ES, or
BPR6ES for ALL Austin cars, including Healeys (except 100S). Then, at
the end of the Austin section it shows BP5ES for the 3000 and BP6ES for the
"3 litre." Go figure.
The first NGK catalog I used, back in the mid '70s, never mentioned the
BP5ES plug for Healeys, and the only one I've ever used is BP6ES. It
seems either the 5 or 6 works, but the 6 is one heat range cooler. I reckon
it comes down to a matter of personal preference, since there seems to
be no real consistency in the catalog listings. The 1993 NGK cross
reference does show the Champion N5 and N9Y in the "6" heat range
and the Champion N12Y in the "5" heat range, as you said.
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
To: the real Mr. Finespanner <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>
Cc: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 8:59 AM
Subject: Re: NGK plugs
>
> Interestingly Doug there seems to be some disagreement on the question of
the
> correct NGK plug for the Healey 6 cyl.
>
> NGK's 1980/1981 Catalogue#8002 Pg1 calls for
> BP5ES for Austin Healey Sprite, 948, 1098, 3000
> BP5ES for 100/M/Six
>
> Their 1986 Catalogue Pg13 calls for
> 3000 BPR5ES
> 100,100M, 100/Six BR6ES
> Sprite (127cc w/ECS) BPR6ES (Exactly as printed)
> (The R[resistor] is probably because of radio interferrence problems)
>
> Champion seems to consistently call for
> N5 plugs for 100, 100M & 100Six
> N12Y for 3000
>
> NGK says that their equivalent of the N5 is B6ES and the N12Y is BP5ES
> The P is for "projected tip" as the combustion chamber is essentially the
> same I can see no good reason why "P" plugs should not be used in 100/6s
>
> The differences between N5 and N12Y is the Heat Range
>
> We have fitted 100s of BP5ES plugs to 3000 and 100/6 engines with (as far
as
> I can remember ) never a problem of any type with the plugs.
> Hope that helps to confuse the issue........
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> "the real Mr. Finespanner" wrote:
>
> > I agree with the pro-NGK sentiments expressed on the list lately, but
the
> > correct NGK plug for Healeys (and many other British cars) is BP6ES,
> > not BP5ES.
> > Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 17:40:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Wheels/tires for 100
In a message dated 7/7/00 4:30:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< In our humble opinion, 165x15 tires look best on the Healeys, and the best
of
these are Dunlop SP20 radials. They're actually made by the Dunlop company
(for classic Beetles,) so they're a modern tire made with modern materials.
>>
Gary--And they are inexpensive, available, have good roadholding and can with
effort be squeezed into the spare compartment!
Chow--Michael, BN1 w/Dunlops
From "Ron Yates" <dipstickdigest at ctaz.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 14:45:47 -0700
Subject: Re:
Of course they're jealous you fools!
However, if you give them masculine names there won't be as many problems. I
really woudn't suggest that because you get a different set of problems.
I refuse to give them masculine names ( current one is Heather)
I learned early on that there were going to be problems. The babushka I
would provide the significant other often didn't match their outfit (it did
compliment the color of the car), or the bonnet had to be up, or it was some
other nit-picky thing.
I finally took the passenger seat out and kept the tonneau fixed. That
solved nearly all the problems with the whiny twit.
We were divorced not too long after (the silly fool was going to name
Heather as a co-respondent!).
The drives with Heather have been extraordinarily pleasurable ever since.
Ron
Editor, Dipstick Digest
www.ctaz/~dipstickdigest/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: <JSoderling@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 1:14 PM
Subject: Fwd:
>
>
> --part1_48.7d17dac.26979411_boundary
>
>
>
>
> --part1_48.7d17dac.26979411_boundary
> Content-Disposition: inline
>
> Return-path: <JSoderling@aol.com>
> From: JSoderling@aol.com
> Full-name: JSoderling
> Message-ID: <b4.7aabc2e.269793c1@aol.com>
> Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 16:12:49 EDT
> Subject: Re:
> To: ruvino@recorder.ca
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 108
>
> In a message dated 7/7/00 8:49:24 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> ruvino@recorder.ca writes:
> Dr. Rubino writes:
> <<
> The bad news is that my wife was with me and it seems that the infrequent
> times she deems to ride in the Healey a part falls off (infrequently in
both
> cases). Nevertheless it has raised her anxiety obout our soon to take
place
> weekend trip from Perth to Kingston, ferrying across Lake Ontario to Wolf
> Island then ferrying to Sacket's Harbour NY then ClaytonNY then home. Did
I
> say she doesn't like being on water either?
>
> Maybe if she started on a trial of Prozac right away-hm! >>
>
> Healeys must know when we have a reluctant wife on board. My wife seldom
> will ride with me but she was along the only time "Erika the Red" ever
failed
> to start, and the one time I had a tire, steel belt separation. I'm
thinking
> "Erika" is just plain jealous!!
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
>
> --part1_48.7d17dac.26979411_boundary--
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 14:51:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: NGK plugs
>It seems either the 5 or 6 works, but the 6 is one
heat range cooler. I reckon it comes down to a matter
of personal preference,...
>
If it is a matter of personal preference, what would
make one choose one over the other?
Dean BN7
__________________________________________________
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
From "jim t.p. ryan" <ryan at jimryan.com>
Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 14:55:55 -0700
Subject: Re: Personal Attacks
Don,
In all fairness, don't you think it unwise to equate minimum wage with low IQ?
Essentially I think you inadvertently made a personal attack on Kent's daughter
as she in fact worked in this type of position. I'm sure it was done in all
innocence, but I have to agree with Kent that I don't like the comparison.
Of course, my rule of thumb is I never piss off the person handling my food
unless absolutely necessary, and I'm sure I'll never go back there. I hate
thinking about where that pepperoni has been;+}
Sincerely,
Jim Ryan
64 Bj7
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Yarber dyarber@dynasty.net
Sent: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 14:21:46 -0400
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Personal Attacks
I guess Kent Lacy doesn't know me very well.
I never make personal attacks on people on the list.
>. Yesterday the folks at the Pizza Hut knew you
were a world class jerk, today the Healey community knows, tomorrow the
world. I'm sure your wife and kids were awfully proud of you.<
My story about the incident at Pizza Hut was in a thread that concerned
large corporations taking over what was once independent business and
replacing dedicated workers with minimum wage (minimum IQ) people.
Austin Healey owners generally are not as quick to call other Austin Healey
owners "a World Class Jerk". If I am a "jerk" for expressing my opinion, so
be it. I may not agree with everything said on this list, but I will defend
until my dying breath everyone's right to say it.
Don
,
___________________________________________________________________________
Visit http://www.visto.com/info, your free web-based communications center.
Visto.com. Life on the Dot.
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 17:31:17 -0500
Subject: Re: NGK plugs
>If it is a matter of personal preference, what would
>make one choose one over the other?
>
It is personal preference that depends on the nature of your engine and
your driving. A colder plug is generally designed for a higher performance
engine. The theory is that more performance equals more heat. A colder
plug transfers more heat to the head where the water jacket can dissipate
the heat. In town driving should equal a 5 whereas more spirited, higher
revving drives would equal a 6.
The best answer is to read the plugs. If your plugs are quickly becoming
oily or sooty, you need a hotter heat range. If the ceramic is powdery and
the electrode burning off, you need a colder heat range. Go to:
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/sparkplugs.html
There is a good explanation of different plugs and a picture of how to read
plugs.
Just to confuse matters, I like an NGK 8 or 9 range plug in my rallye engine.
Jim Hockert
66 BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 18:59:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine Stand "Long but worth it"
In a message dated 07/06/2000 10:25:07 PM Central Daylight Time,
vscjohn@huntnet.net writes:
<< Just makes me an old fart living in the past. Care to join? >>
Charter Member, John !!
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
Founding Member, ILLINI Chapter - AHCA (20+ years)
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 19:01:31 -0400
Subject: re re stamped #s
Gary,
thanks for the reply , I must have been thinking about the daily
doldrums when I saw the #s I missed pg. 68 somehow.
Carroll
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 19:28:10 -0400
Subject: Re:
Interesting. I was timing my car a few weeks ago and while jockeying the pulley
around to get the breaker max opened found the nut on my pulley loose enough to
turn by hand, with the washer floating around between the nut and the pulley.
How is the nut supposed to tightened so it doesn't come loose? I just put the
car in gear and got it as tight as I could but still feel it needs periodic
checking lest it come loose again. Joe Elmer 53BN1.
"Dr. C Rubino" wrote:
> I had an interesting experience a couple of days ago.
>
> After turning a corner I heard the sound of metal on metal. On examination I
> found a large (2.5") diameter washer sitting on the frame. In addition to
> being large it had a slot cut in the top obviously to help lock it in place.
>
> Well what the heck was it? I simply couldn't figure it out so took it to the
> Healey nuts at the Sports Car Factory (hallville.com) and asked the million
> dollar question "What is this?" John immediately identified it as the
> locking washer for the starter dog nut on the end of the crankshaft that
> holds the pulley in place.
>
> Sure enough the dog was missing. How long I have no idea. Why didn't the
> pulley fall off and destroy my engine compartment-i have no idea.
>
> The good news is that without too much trouble (pulling the rad) we replaced
> both parts and things are safe again.
>
> The bad news is that my wife was with me and it seems that the infrequent
> times she deems to ride in the Healey a part falls off (infrequently in both
> cases). Nevertheless it has raised her anxiety obout our soon to take place
> weekend trip from Perth to Kingston, ferrying across Lake Ontario to Wolf
> Island then ferrying to Sacket's Harbour NY then ClaytonNY then home. Did I
> say she doesn't like being on water either?
>
> Maybe if she started on a trial of Prozac right away-hm!
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 19:29:29 -0400
Subject: Re:
OK Dr. I'll do one better. After a total engine rebuild by a Healy specialist I
get my engine back and a tin can with the very same washer in it. A year later
I'm ready to do the shakedown run. Off I go on my favorite drive up the Delaware
and bam, I hear a really bad noise. The Jesus Christ nut came off the crank and
eats the fan and the radiator. Soooooooooo everyone, make sure the crank bolt is
fitted with the aforementioned washer otherwise it gets real expensive.
Jim Dalglish
Manasquan NJ
The tuna are back!
"Dr. C Rubino" wrote:
> I had an interesting experience a couple of days ago.
>
> After turning a corner I heard the sound of metal on metal. On examination I
> found a large (2.5") diameter washer sitting on the frame. In addition to
> being large it had a slot cut in the top obviously to help lock it in place.
>
> Well what the heck was it? I simply couldn't figure it out so took it to the
> Healey nuts at the Sports Car Factory (hallville.com) and asked the million
> dollar question "What is this?" John immediately identified it as the
> locking washer for the starter dog nut on the end of the crankshaft that
> holds the pulley in place.
>
> Sure enough the dog was missing. How long I have no idea. Why didn't the
> pulley fall off and destroy my engine compartment-i have no idea.
>
> The good news is that without too much trouble (pulling the rad) we replaced
> both parts and things are safe again.
>
> The bad news is that my wife was with me and it seems that the infrequent
> times she deems to ride in the Healey a part falls off (infrequently in both
> cases). Nevertheless it has raised her anxiety obout our soon to take place
> weekend trip from Perth to Kingston, ferrying across Lake Ontario to Wolf
> Island then ferrying to Sacket's Harbour NY then ClaytonNY then home. Did I
> say she doesn't like being on water either?
>
> Maybe if she started on a trial of Prozac right away-hm!
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 19:37:30 -0400
Subject: Re: NGK plugs
Doug: Does your catalog tell you what the heat range is for the Bosch 4237
platinum plug? I've been using them in my 100 and they seem fine. Joe.
"the real Mr. Finespanner" wrote:
> Mike,
> Just to add to the confusion, the 1993 NGK catalog lists B6ES, BP6ES, or
> BPR6ES for ALL Austin cars, including Healeys (except 100S). Then, at
> the end of the Austin section it shows BP5ES for the 3000 and BP6ES for the
> "3 litre." Go figure.
> The first NGK catalog I used, back in the mid '70s, never mentioned the
> BP5ES plug for Healeys, and the only one I've ever used is BP6ES. It
> seems either the 5 or 6 works, but the 6 is one heat range cooler. I reckon
> it comes down to a matter of personal preference, since there seems to
> be no real consistency in the catalog listings. The 1993 NGK cross
> reference does show the Champion N5 and N9Y in the "6" heat range
> and the Champion N12Y in the "5" heat range, as you said.
> Doug
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
> To: the real Mr. Finespanner <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>
> Cc: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 8:59 AM
> Subject: Re: NGK plugs
>
> >
> > Interestingly Doug there seems to be some disagreement on the question of
> the
> > correct NGK plug for the Healey 6 cyl.
> >
> > NGK's 1980/1981 Catalogue#8002 Pg1 calls for
> > BP5ES for Austin Healey Sprite, 948, 1098, 3000
> > BP5ES for 100/M/Six
> >
> > Their 1986 Catalogue Pg13 calls for
> > 3000 BPR5ES
> > 100,100M, 100/Six BR6ES
> > Sprite (127cc w/ECS) BPR6ES (Exactly as printed)
> > (The R[resistor] is probably because of radio interferrence problems)
> >
> > Champion seems to consistently call for
> > N5 plugs for 100, 100M & 100Six
> > N12Y for 3000
> >
> > NGK says that their equivalent of the N5 is B6ES and the N12Y is BP5ES
> > The P is for "projected tip" as the combustion chamber is essentially the
> > same I can see no good reason why "P" plugs should not be used in 100/6s
> >
> > The differences between N5 and N12Y is the Heat Range
> >
> > We have fitted 100s of BP5ES plugs to 3000 and 100/6 engines with (as far
> as
> > I can remember ) never a problem of any type with the plugs.
> > Hope that helps to confuse the issue........
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Mike Salter
> > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> > "the real Mr. Finespanner" wrote:
> >
> > > I agree with the pro-NGK sentiments expressed on the list lately, but
> the
> > > correct NGK plug for Healeys (and many other British cars) is BP6ES,
> > > not BP5ES.
> > > Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
From "Thomas Mulligan" <tpmul at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 19:34:03 -0400
Subject: ATW
Spent the better part of the day today with the two Healeys
currently running the Around the World Rally.
The 40 or so remaining cars are laying over in Newark, NJ
until Sat for air lift to Africa.
I met Peter Hunt (car 83) and Rick Dyke & Stuart Onyett (car 79)
at the Sheraton at 6:30 am and escorted them to the AutoWorks
in Westwood NJ for service.
The most difficult job of the day was replacing the rear springs
on Peter's car (Peter use BJ8 springs on his car for more clearance).
The springs must be extended under tension while attached.
Various other fluids, seals and bits were attended to as well.
Bob Berkowitz put his services and the facilities of the AutoWorks
at their disposal for the day at no charge.
AHSTC members Ray Lynch and Art Herkomer were also present.
All went well and they were back at the hotel by 7pm.
We wish them well.
Tom Mulligan
From Kent Lacy <oxballs at netzero.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 20:28:47 -0400
Subject: Re: free pizzas
Yes Don, I think I do know you. I used to watch in other people the
same behavior you described in yourself while I was waiting to
pick my daughter up from work. She'd come home some nights
just in tears because she didn't understand how adults who should
know better could be so insensitive and inconsiderate. How do you
explain to a young person who is simply trying to do the very best
that she can that some people are just sorry as hell and will give
kids a hard time just because they can. Makes them feel important
I guess. Sorta like kicking a puppy.
Your remark about your "fist" certainly seems to be in character,
but as to you always treating people with "respect and dignity",
well, I think we can argue that.
You forgot to let me know where that Pizza Hut is. I'd still like to
bail you out.
Kent
Don Yarber wrote:
> I guess we know who the World Class Jerk is.
> You don't know anything about me. If you did you would know that I don't go
> around looking for handouts.
> I'm sure that pepperoni can be put in some interesting places.
> So can fists.
>
> I'm a 63 year old retiree free lance writer who minds my own business and
> expects everyone else to do the same. But when a teen aged girl who drop
> kicks silverware under the counter because she is too lazy to bend over and
> pick it up sets me off on the wrong foot, I can be as obstinate as she can.
>
> As a young man I worked in a drive in BBQ stand, as a curb hop. I sometimes
> waited on as many as 40 cars at a time after a football game. I respected
> the establishment's owners and customers.
> I always smiled and thanked people for their orders.
>
> If Pizza Hut advertises a free pizza for failure to show a "take out" pizza
> to their customer, then I feel I have a right to that pizza if they do not
> show it to me. It was a matter of principal. I don't want you to pay my
> bill, I pay my own way in this world and have since I was on my own at 16.
>
> I'm glad to hear that your daughter earns part of her keep by working in a
> Pizza Hut. That is commendable to her for doing so, and to you for teaching
> her that life isn't all parents doling out money to greedy kids.
>
> As far as me driving my Healey to a Pizza Hut. No, I didn't drive it, but
> if I had, the results would have been the same. I expect everyone to treat
> me the way I treat people, with respect and dignity. If I get no respect, I
> give no respect.
>
> You're barking up the wrong tree, Kent. I suggest you go back and read my
> message again. The point I was trying to make is that companies need to pay
> their people more and hire more qualified people.
>
> Don
_______________________________________________
Why pay for something you could get for free?
NetZero provides FREE Internet Access and Email
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 20:51:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
Hi, Lee --
No, the thing sliding around wasn't the float It felt and sounded like a
substantial piece of sheet metal, but I couldn't make it slide to a place
where I could see it. I removed the old sensor assembly from the old tank
and installed it in the new tank (as in, just bought from Moss -- long
story). The fuel gauge, which worked normally three years ago stayed
constantly on 1/4 tank (rheostat windings somehow got damaged, and the wiper
was almost worn in two anyway), so I replaced it with a new sensor assembly.
The gauge then registered accurately when steady, but is mostly not steady
unless the tank is completely full or almost empty. That's nothing new --
it has worked that way since I've owned the car (1984).
I haven't tried the alternate ground with the new tank and sensor, but I did
a long time ago with the old setup. Didn't make any difference that I could
see. I wire brushed the sensor wire, which is part of a new harness, and
sensor terminal before connecting the wire, so that shouldn't be the
problem.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, July 06, 2000 8:44 AM
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
>
>Steve -
>This may sound dumb, but are you sure the thing you heard sliding around
>wasn't the float from end of the arm on the fuel sender unit?
>
>If not, the gremlins can probably be made to seek out an MG or TR6 if you
>run a light guage wire from one of the bolts holding the sending unit to
the
>tank to one of the machine screws that provide the return path for the
rear
>lights. I believe the jumping arround and/or flickering is caused by dirt
>etc. on contacts and/or the casual nature of the way the gas tank is
>grounded. The new wire corrects the later. Cleaning the contact/nut on
the
>gauge sender unit fixes the former.
>Lee
>62 Mk II Tri-carb
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Date: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 9:51 PM
>Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
>
>
>>
>>I just put a new tank and sending unit in my BJ8. The old tank had
>>something rather large sliding around in it, and I always assumed it must
>be
>>a baffle broken loose because the gauge waved about when less than full,
>>especially when accelerating or decelerating. Now, not only does it wave
>as
>>before, it occasionally snaps quickly from side to side (full to empty and
>>back) and then vibrates somewhere around the correct reading. When it's
>not
>>doing this, it's pretty steady and correct. Electrical gremlins, I
>>suppose.
>>Steve Byers
>>HBJ8L/36666 - TARHEELY
>>Havelock, NC USA
>>"It is better to remain silent, and be thought a fool
>>than to speak, and remove all doubt" -- Mark Twain
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 20:53:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Insulation material
Ron
Go back in the List archives and you'll find lots of discussion about an 1/8"
foil on both sides/fiberglas in the mkiddle blanket available from Char-Broil
as a Smoker Insulating Blanket. About $5 and two will cover your entire floor
- even for a 2+2
Contact me off List of you can't find it at your local Menards or Home Depot or
from Char-Broil direct
DickB
'62 BT7TriCarb
---- you wrote:
>
> Listers:
>
> I am on a mission to make the interior of my BJ8 cooler on warm days
> (which is most here in So Cal).
> I am looking for the light weight space blanket type material to slip
> under the carpet and over the transmission tunnel. I already have the
> stuff that is foil on one side and felt on the other and I am looking
> for an additional layer. This would be like the space blanket material.
> Any ideas on where to find this stuff?
>
> Ron Rader
> Marina del Rey CA
> 1965 BJ8
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 19:51:48 -0500
Subject: Re: free pizzas
All Points Made and Well Taken.... Can we get on to the business of
Healey's.... even if you Concours folks want to chat.... I can Lurk in the
Backround and think of Cutting up my Bugeye.... don't mind me I enjoy the
knowledge you folks share.... don't share in your interest... but I still
like to know the answers.... I encourage each Person in this Hobby finding
his own way... I sure wouldn't try and sway them.... Love the Freedom and
Latitude so many of us enjoy....
Keith ( I will Walk 50 miles outta the way to avoid an argument.... )
----- Original Message -----
From: Kent Lacy <oxballs@netzero.net>
To: Don Yarber <dyarber@dynasty.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 7:28 PM
Subject: Re: free pizzas
>
> Yes Don, I think I do know you. I used to watch in other people the
> same behavior you described in yourself while I was waiting to
> pick my daughter up from work. She'd come home some nights
> just in tears because she didn't understand how adults who should
> know better could be so insensitive and inconsiderate. How do you
> explain to a young person who is simply trying to do the very best
> that she can that some people are just sorry as hell and will give
> kids a hard time just because they can. Makes them feel important
> I guess. Sorta like kicking a puppy.
>
> Your remark about your "fist" certainly seems to be in character,
> but as to you always treating people with "respect and dignity",
> well, I think we can argue that.
>
> You forgot to let me know where that Pizza Hut is. I'd still like to
> bail you out.
>
> Kent
>
> Don Yarber wrote:
>
> > I guess we know who the World Class Jerk is.
> > You don't know anything about me. If you did you would know that I
don't go
> > around looking for handouts.
> > I'm sure that pepperoni can be put in some interesting places.
> > So can fists.
> >
> > I'm a 63 year old retiree free lance writer who minds my own business
and
> > expects everyone else to do the same. But when a teen aged girl who
drop
> > kicks silverware under the counter because she is too lazy to bend over
and
> > pick it up sets me off on the wrong foot, I can be as obstinate as she
can.
> >
> > As a young man I worked in a drive in BBQ stand, as a curb hop. I
sometimes
> > waited on as many as 40 cars at a time after a football game. I
respected
> > the establishment's owners and customers.
> > I always smiled and thanked people for their orders.
> >
> > If Pizza Hut advertises a free pizza for failure to show a "take out"
pizza
> > to their customer, then I feel I have a right to that pizza if they do
not
> > show it to me. It was a matter of principal. I don't want you to pay
my
> > bill, I pay my own way in this world and have since I was on my own at
16.
> >
> > I'm glad to hear that your daughter earns part of her keep by working in
a
> > Pizza Hut. That is commendable to her for doing so, and to you for
teaching
> > her that life isn't all parents doling out money to greedy kids.
> >
> > As far as me driving my Healey to a Pizza Hut. No, I didn't drive it,
but
> > if I had, the results would have been the same. I expect everyone to
treat
> > me the way I treat people, with respect and dignity. If I get no
respect, I
> > give no respect.
> >
> > You're barking up the wrong tree, Kent. I suggest you go back and read
my
> > message again. The point I was trying to make is that companies need to
pay
> > their people more and hire more qualified people.
> >
> > Don
>
> _______________________________________________
> Why pay for something you could get for free?
> NetZero provides FREE Internet Access and Email
>
From "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 18:33:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Wheels/tires for 100
I run 165 SR 15's on my BN2 and the spare requires deflation before storing
it. With this I consider enlarging the compartment next time the body work
is apart.
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 22:22:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Wheels/tires for 100
In a message dated 7/7/00 9:43:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
coryleblanc@earthlink.net writes:
<< I run 165 SR 15's on my BN2 and the spare requires deflation before storing
it. With this I consider enlarging the compartment next time the body work
is apart.
>>
Jim--
Someone (I think Gary Anderson) told me to get a plastic laundry bag and put
it around the tire--It not only goes in easier but it also comes out without
major effort. (I have a Dunlop SP20 165-15 spare also--it really works!)
Best--Michael
From Bob Brown <rcbrown at lucent.com>
Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 21:46:46 -0500
Subject: Re: ATW
Tom,
As support coordinator for Team Healey in North America, I want to
extent my personal thanks to you and the others that helped out
in Newark preparing Team Healey for the final leg in North Africa
and Western Europe.
Please extend our thanks the Bob Berkowitz and his Autoworks staff
for their help and generosity.
Bob Brown
Thomas Mulligan wrote:
>
> Spent the better part of the day today with the two Healeys
> currently running the Around the World Rally.
> The 40 or so remaining cars are laying over in Newark, NJ
> until Sat for air lift to Africa.
> I met Peter Hunt (car 83) and Rick Dyke & Stuart Onyett (car 79)
> at the Sheraton at 6:30 am and escorted them to the AutoWorks
> in Westwood NJ for service.
> The most difficult job of the day was replacing the rear springs
> on Peter's car (Peter use BJ8 springs on his car for more clearance).
> The springs must be extended under tension while attached.
> Various other fluids, seals and bits were attended to as well.
> Bob Berkowitz put his services and the facilities of the AutoWorks
> at their disposal for the day at no charge.
> AHSTC members Ray Lynch and Art Herkomer were also present.
> All went well and they were back at the hotel by 7pm.
> We wish them well.
> Tom Mulligan
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 23:32:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: free pizzas
Kent
Try to keep this in perspective.
This is someone who asks questions like "which way does the key go into the
ignition - teeth Up or teeth Down""
and then invites us to his website to hear what a great guy Pete Rose - the
famous ex-baseball player who raises his gambling money by selling his
autograph to gullible 10 year olds, - is.
I'll keep his remark about where he could put his fist in mind next time he
posts a question.
Find me my BN2 yet?
My paint job is an excellent 5 footer. I'm afraid to machine buff it for fear
I'll end up seeing my orange sealer again <G>
Dick
---- you wrote:
>
> Yes Don, I think I do know you. I used to watch in other people the
> same behavior you described in yourself while I was waiting to
> pick my daughter up from work. She'd come home some nights
> just in tears because she didn't understand how adults who should
> know better could be so insensitive and inconsiderate. How do you
> explain to a young person who is simply trying to do the very best
> that she can that some people are just sorry as hell and will give
> kids a hard time just because they can. Makes them feel important
> I guess. Sorta like kicking a puppy.
>
> Your remark about your "fist" certainly seems to be in character,
> but as to you always treating people with "respect and dignity",
> well, I think we can argue that.
>
> You forgot to let me know where that Pizza Hut is. I'd still like to
> bail you out.
>
> Kent
>
> Don Yarber wrote:
>
> > I guess we know who the World Class Jerk is.
> > You don't know anything about me. If you did you would know that I don't go
> > around looking for handouts.
> > I'm sure that pepperoni can be put in some interesting places.
> > So can fists.
> >
> > I'm a 63 year old retiree free lance writer who minds my own business and
> > expects everyone else to do the same. But when a teen aged girl who drop
> > kicks silverware under the counter because she is too lazy to bend over and
> > pick it up sets me off on the wrong foot, I can be as obstinate as she can.
> >
> > As a young man I worked in a drive in BBQ stand, as a curb hop. I sometimes
> > waited on as many as 40 cars at a time after a football game. I respected
> > the establishment's owners and customers.
> > I always smiled and thanked people for their orders.
> >
> > If Pizza Hut advertises a free pizza for failure to show a "take out" pizza
> > to their customer, then I feel I have a right to that pizza if they do not
> > show it to me. It was a matter of principal. I don't want you to pay my
> > bill, I pay my own way in this world and have since I was on my own at 16.
> >
> > I'm glad to hear that your daughter earns part of her keep by working in a
> > Pizza Hut. That is commendable to her for doing so, and to you for teaching
> > her that life isn't all parents doling out money to greedy kids.
> >
> > As far as me driving my Healey to a Pizza Hut. No, I didn't drive it, but
> > if I had, the results would have been the same. I expect everyone to treat
> > me the way I treat people, with respect and dignity. If I get no respect, I
> > give no respect.
> >
> > You're barking up the wrong tree, Kent. I suggest you go back and read my
> > message again. The point I was trying to make is that companies need to pay
> > their people more and hire more qualified people.
> >
> > Don
>
> _______________________________________________
> Why pay for something you could get for free?
> NetZero provides FREE Internet Access and Email
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 23:58:28 -0400
Subject:
I've never asked you a question.
My comments are and were to Kent Lacy. If you don't want to visit my
website, please don't feel compelled to. I don't hold shotguns to annoys
head to MAKE them visit. And if you don't like Pete Rose, that is OK.
I remember sending you a note telling you to lighten up on someone for their
posting of some Bill Clinton jokes. So now you attack me??
Dick, be cheerful as your name implies, not spiteful.
Don
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 22:40:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
If the gas tanks have no baffles inside then the float will bob around when
ever the tank is not quite full and the gas is sloshing from vehicle
movement. The gas gauge is an undamped movement (unlike new vehicles) and
will respond to the slightest movement of the float assembly. Put a wine
cork in a dish pan of water and slosh it back and forth, at some point the
cork may almost hit the bottom and other times will almost come over the lip
of the pan. All movements (ok most) of domestic vehicles are damped
including oil pressure. The amount of damping varies on the type of gauge,
to quick and to much makes people nervous. I think they feel they should be
able to look at a gauge and always see the needle in the same general area.
So for most people what's the purpose of gauges in domestic vehicles (tongue
in cheek)....got me....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 5:51 PM
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
>
> Hi, Lee --
> No, the thing sliding around wasn't the float It felt and sounded like a
> substantial piece of sheet metal, but I couldn't make it slide to a place
> where I could see it. I removed the old sensor assembly from the old tank
> and installed it in the new tank (as in, just bought from Moss -- long
> story). The fuel gauge, which worked normally three years ago stayed
> constantly on 1/4 tank (rheostat windings somehow got damaged, and the
wiper
> was almost worn in two anyway), so I replaced it with a new sensor
assembly.
> The gauge then registered accurately when steady, but is mostly not steady
> unless the tank is completely full or almost empty. That's nothing
new --
> it has worked that way since I've owned the car (1984).
> I haven't tried the alternate ground with the new tank and sensor, but I
did
> a long time ago with the old setup. Didn't make any difference that I
could
> see. I wire brushed the sensor wire, which is part of a new harness, and
> sensor terminal before connecting the wire, so that shouldn't be the
> problem.
>
> Steve
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, July 06, 2000 8:44 AM
> Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
>
>
> >
> >Steve -
> >This may sound dumb, but are you sure the thing you heard sliding around
> >wasn't the float from end of the arm on the fuel sender unit?
> >
> >If not, the gremlins can probably be made to seek out an MG or TR6 if you
> >run a light guage wire from one of the bolts holding the sending unit to
> the
> >tank to one of the machine screws that provide the return path for the
> rear
> >lights. I believe the jumping arround and/or flickering is caused by
dirt
> >etc. on contacts and/or the casual nature of the way the gas tank is
> >grounded. The new wire corrects the later. Cleaning the contact/nut on
> the
> >gauge sender unit fixes the former.
> >Lee
> >62 Mk II Tri-carb
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
> >To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Date: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 9:51 PM
> >Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
> >
> >
> >>
> >>I just put a new tank and sending unit in my BJ8. The old tank had
> >>something rather large sliding around in it, and I always assumed it
must
> >be
> >>a baffle broken loose because the gauge waved about when less than full,
> >>especially when accelerating or decelerating. Now, not only does it
wave
> >as
> >>before, it occasionally snaps quickly from side to side (full to empty
and
> >>back) and then vibrates somewhere around the correct reading. When it's
> >not
> >>doing this, it's pretty steady and correct. Electrical gremlins, I
> >>suppose.
>
> >>Steve Byers
> >>HBJ8L/36666 - TARHEELY
> >>Havelock, NC USA
> >>"It is better to remain silent, and be thought a fool
> >>than to speak, and remove all doubt" -- Mark Twain
>
>
>
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 15:44:29 +1000
Subject: Re: Wheels/tires for 100
What's the sense in having a deflated spare ?
Might as well just leave it at home.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
>
> I run 165 SR 15's on my BN2 and the spare requires deflation before
storing
> it. With this I consider enlarging the compartment next time the body work
> is apart.
>
> Jim LeBlanc
> 1956 100-M
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 00:50:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Personal Attacks
I agree with the minimum wage part but to suggest that someone who is not as
knowledgeable as you on a specific subject as having minimum I.Q. is
arrogant and jerky. Try to find someone to fix your record changer because
three of the 78's are falling onto the turntable at the same time. Good
luck. Times are a changing. People don't need that kind of expertise
anymore. If it's not in the computer it doesn't exist. Give these young guys
a break. They'll be fixing your kids Miata in twenty years.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Yarber <dyarber@dynasty.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, July 07, 2000 3:22 PM
Subject: Personal Attacks
>
>I guess Kent Lacy doesn't know me very well.
>
>I never make personal attacks on people on the list.
>
>>. Yesterday the folks at the Pizza Hut knew you
>were a world class jerk, today the Healey community knows, tomorrow the
>world. I'm sure your wife and kids were awfully proud of you.<
>
>My story about the incident at Pizza Hut was in a thread that concerned
>large corporations taking over what was once independent business and
>replacing dedicated workers with minimum wage (minimum IQ) people.
>
>Austin Healey owners generally are not as quick to call other Austin Healey
>owners "a World Class Jerk". If I am a "jerk" for expressing my opinion,
so
>be it. I may not agree with everything said on this list, but I will
defend
>until my dying breath everyone's right to say it.
>
>Don
>
>
>
>,
>
>
>
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 00:52:00 -0400
Subject: Re:
It could be worse, parts could be falling off of
you.RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dr. C Rubino <ruvino@recorder.ca>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, July 07, 2000 11:40 AM
>
>I had an interesting experience a couple of days ago.
>
>After turning a corner I heard the sound of metal on metal. On examination
I
>found a large (2.5") diameter washer sitting on the frame. In addition to
>being large it had a slot cut in the top obviously to help lock it in
place.
>
>Well what the heck was it? I simply couldn't figure it out so took it to
the
>Healey nuts at the Sports Car Factory (hallville.com) and asked the million
>dollar question "What is this?" John immediately identified it as the
>locking washer for the starter dog nut on the end of the crankshaft that
>holds the pulley in place.
>
>Sure enough the dog was missing. How long I have no idea. Why didn't the
>pulley fall off and destroy my engine compartment-i have no idea.
>
>The good news is that without too much trouble (pulling the rad) we
replaced
>both parts and things are safe again.
>
>The bad news is that my wife was with me and it seems that the infrequent
>times she deems to ride in the Healey a part falls off (infrequently in
both
>cases). Nevertheless it has raised her anxiety obout our soon to take place
>weekend trip from Perth to Kingston, ferrying across Lake Ontario to Wolf
>Island then ferrying to Sacket's Harbour NY then ClaytonNY then home. Did I
>say she doesn't like being on water either?
>
>Maybe if she started on a trial of Prozac right away-hm!
>
>
>
From "Simon Sabel" <simon.sabel at flinthouse.com>
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 09:25:39 +0100
Subject: Global Parts Organisation
Listers, I must say 'bravo' to Mike Salter
(http://www.precisionsportscar.com/)
for helping me out of a fix with a replacement head casting, despite the
distance, Canada to UK, it was still a great deal - it was also good
dealing with someone who really knows their stuff, it shows that distance is
nothing even where parts are concerned
Regards
Simon
BN4 Longbridge
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 05:45:40 -0500
Subject: Young Folks
You know I have been having some thoughts about this and really wanted to
close this subject and move on... but these thoughts persist... so I wanted
to share them with you all... This is long and Protracted and has damn
little to do with Healey's....
I was the High School drop out working at the Ave #3 Pizza in Southern
California back in 1974.... I wasn't the sharpest Pencil in the Box....
Pimple's and Long Hair....
So lets take a sec and see Just how I turned out? Joined the Army ( that
or go To Jail for 13 speeding tickets hmmm you reckon I always liked speed?)
14 yrs of night school....and ended up with several degrees one in
Aeronautic's from Embry Riddle. Spent 20 yrs in the Military and Retired as
a Chief Warrant Officer 4..... Served my Country in 4 countries overseas to
include the Gulf War.... ( Yuck ) When I retired I was one of the Army's
senior instructor pilots in the AH-64 Apahce.
Retired 4 years ago and bought a business... started with Nothing ( and I
still have most of it ) we make Fake Rocks... for the building industry....
currently employing 15 Young People... Now to the Point of this whole
thing....
I sit there everyday and watch my Hero's come to work with thier Little mini
Truck's and Lowered Honda's.... These guys don't make squat for a living....
but every penny they have they stick in those cars....what I noticed is that
they weren't sticking it up thier nose.... and besides how would you get
past the nose ring's.... the one kid with the Blue hair.... now here is an
interesting character...
but they work Hard for a Living... and I treat them JUST like I wanted to be
treated.... with respect and dignity .... I mentor them and try to help them
find direction....
I don't Drive the Hundred to work often but when I do... I make sure that I
point out that I bought it when I was thier Age.... and it was My Honda....
I have offered Rides in it as well.. ( yeah there would be a line for that )
if you think about it.... These Kids are going to lead our Country in our
old age.... and after watching them work and sweat... I have no fear that
they will do a Great job..... all they need is Time to Mature and decent
people to Give them a Chance in Life....
At 42 I am Lucky to have come this far... to be racing a car on the Salt
Flats and Driving Healey's ....
Keith Turk ( didn't mean to be egotistical just ment to show that what you
see today isn't what you will have tomarrow )( These are good kids raised by
honest Parents who are searching for thier own way in Life )
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 11:53:59 +0100
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
Has anyone tried putting a fat electrolytic capacitor across the gauge?
Until I look into the resistances involved in the sensor and meter I
don't know what sort of value will do the trick, but it could never be
too big - even a time constant of 10 minutes or so is not going to
disguise the true reading (yes, I know Healeys empty their tanks pretty
fast, but not *that* fast!).
In message <005f01bfe89f$96264dc0$0d13c2cf@neiltrelenberg>, Neil
Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net> writes
>
>If the gas tanks have no baffles inside then the float will bob around when
>ever the tank is not quite full and the gas is sloshing from vehicle
>movement. The gas gauge is an undamped movement (unlike new vehicles) and
>will respond to the slightest movement of the float assembly. Put a wine
>cork in a dish pan of water and slosh it back and forth, at some point the
>cork may almost hit the bottom and other times will almost come over the lip
>of the pan. All movements (ok most) of domestic vehicles are damped
>including oil pressure. The amount of damping varies on the type of gauge,
>to quick and to much makes people nervous. I think they feel they should be
>able to look at a gauge and always see the needle in the same general area.
>So for most people what's the purpose of gauges in domestic vehicles (tongue
>in cheek)....got me....Neil
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 5:51 PM
>Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
>
>
>>
>> Hi, Lee --
>> No, the thing sliding around wasn't the float It felt and sounded like a
>> substantial piece of sheet metal, but I couldn't make it slide to a place
>> where I could see it. I removed the old sensor assembly from the old tank
>> and installed it in the new tank (as in, just bought from Moss -- long
>> story). The fuel gauge, which worked normally three years ago stayed
>> constantly on 1/4 tank (rheostat windings somehow got damaged, and the
>wiper
>> was almost worn in two anyway), so I replaced it with a new sensor
>assembly.
>> The gauge then registered accurately when steady, but is mostly not steady
>> unless the tank is completely full or almost empty. That's nothing
>new --
>> it has worked that way since I've owned the car (1984).
>> I haven't tried the alternate ground with the new tank and sensor, but I
>did
>> a long time ago with the old setup. Didn't make any difference that I
>could
>> see. I wire brushed the sensor wire, which is part of a new harness, and
>> sensor terminal before connecting the wire, so that shouldn't be the
>> problem.
>>
>> Steve
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
>> To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> Date: Thursday, July 06, 2000 8:44 AM
>> Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
>>
>>
>> >
>> >Steve -
>> >This may sound dumb, but are you sure the thing you heard sliding around
>> >wasn't the float from end of the arm on the fuel sender unit?
>> >
>> >If not, the gremlins can probably be made to seek out an MG or TR6 if you
>> >run a light guage wire from one of the bolts holding the sending unit to
>> the
>> >tank to one of the machine screws that provide the return path for the
>> rear
>> >lights. I believe the jumping arround and/or flickering is caused by
>dirt
>> >etc. on contacts and/or the casual nature of the way the gas tank is
>> >grounded. The new wire corrects the later. Cleaning the contact/nut on
>> the
>> >gauge sender unit fixes the former.
>> >Lee
>> >62 Mk II Tri-carb
>> >
>> >-----Original Message-----
>> >From: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
>> >To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> >Date: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 9:51 PM
>> >Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
>> >
>> >
>> >>
>> >>I just put a new tank and sending unit in my BJ8. The old tank had
>> >>something rather large sliding around in it, and I always assumed it
>must
>> >be
>> >>a baffle broken loose because the gauge waved about when less than full,
>> >>especially when accelerating or decelerating. Now, not only does it
>wave
>> >as
>> >>before, it occasionally snaps quickly from side to side (full to empty
>and
>> >>back) and then vibrates somewhere around the correct reading. When it's
>> >not
>> >>doing this, it's pretty steady and correct. Electrical gremlins, I
>> >>suppose.
>>
>> >>Steve Byers
>> >>HBJ8L/36666 - TARHEELY
>> >>Havelock, NC USA
>> >>"It is better to remain silent, and be thought a fool
>> >>than to speak, and remove all doubt" -- Mark Twain
>>
>>
>>
>
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 07:11:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Young Folks
In a message dated 7/8/00 7:01:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time, kturk@ala.net
writes:
<< thier Little mini
Truck's and Lowered Honda's.... These guys don't make squat for a living....
but every penny they have they stick in those cars....what I noticed is that
they weren't sticking it up thier nose.... and besides how would you get
past the nose ring's... >>
Totally agree, Keith! Around here in Southern Maryland the dream of most
boys is to get an Aspire, Accord or some other nondescript car and pour much
bucks into trick wheels and them skinny tires, not to mention bass blasters.
While I can't stand hearing those cars reverberating 50 yards away, it sure
beats wasting money on "consumables" such as drugs and booze, and assuming
any of these kids can hear in the future they will have gained an
understanding about earning money to buy what they want--the basis of our
system. I gew up (sorta), so will they.
Michael--St. Leonard, MD.
(usta waste $$ on toys for his TR3 when young--now wastes it on his BN1)
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 07:11:31 -0400
Subject: Re:
Hi all:
The washer on my bn1 is bent over on a couple of the flats of the nut. I
guess that doesn't mean the nut and washer couldn't loosen: I've haven't
had mine off yet, don't know if the washer goes on one way or not (slotted
or not). Getting ready to replace my timing chain and tensioner ring. btw
what does the list think of the tensioner ring; is it needed at all? I
believe there was a thread awhile back about the tensioner ring
disintegrating or being made of poor quality rubber and falling apart
causing
damage. TIA
lance
54 bn1
----- Original Message -----
From: James B Dalglish <leaker@exit109.com>
To: Dr. C Rubino <ruvino@recorder.ca>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 7:29 PM
Subject: Re:
>
> OK Dr. I'll do one better. After a total engine rebuild by a Healy
specialist I
> get my engine back and a tin can with the very same washer in it. A year
later
> I'm ready to do the shakedown run. Off I go on my favorite drive up the
Delaware
> and bam, I hear a really bad noise. The Jesus Christ nut came off the
crank and
> eats the fan and the radiator. Soooooooooo everyone, make sure the crank
bolt is
> fitted with the aforementioned washer otherwise it gets real expensive.
>
> Jim Dalglish
> Manasquan NJ
> The tuna are back!
>
> "Dr. C Rubino" wrote:
>
> > I had an interesting experience a couple of days ago.
> >
> > After turning a corner I heard the sound of metal on metal. On
examination I
> > found a large (2.5") diameter washer sitting on the frame. In addition
to
> > being large it had a slot cut in the top obviously to help lock it in
place.
> >
> > Well what the heck was it? I simply couldn't figure it out so took it to
the
> > Healey nuts at the Sports Car Factory (hallville.com) and asked the
million
> > dollar question "What is this?" John immediately identified it as the
> > locking washer for the starter dog nut on the end of the crankshaft that
> > holds the pulley in place.
> >
> > Sure enough the dog was missing. How long I have no idea. Why didn't the
> > pulley fall off and destroy my engine compartment-i have no idea.
> >
> > The good news is that without too much trouble (pulling the rad) we
replaced
> > both parts and things are safe again.
> >
> > The bad news is that my wife was with me and it seems that the
infrequent
> > times she deems to ride in the Healey a part falls off (infrequently in
both
> > cases). Nevertheless it has raised her anxiety obout our soon to take
place
> > weekend trip from Perth to Kingston, ferrying across Lake Ontario to
Wolf
> > Island then ferrying to Sacket's Harbour NY then ClaytonNY then home.
Did I
> > say she doesn't like being on water either?
> >
> > Maybe if she started on a trial of Prozac right away-hm!
>
From "cgsecord" <cgsecord at simcom.on.ca>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 08:21:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Wheels/tires for 100
> I run 165 SR 15's on my BN2 and the spare requires deflation before
storing
> it. With this I consider enlarging the compartment next time the
body work
> is apart.
>
> Jim LeBlanc
> 1956 100-M
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 08:47:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Starting Dogs ??
> The crank pulley nut will not come loose if it is put on correctly in the
> first place.
Important points are:
1. The key in the crank, and the keyway in the pulley must be in very good
condition as must be the key itself.
2. The nut and thread on the crank must be clean and in good condition. The nut
should spin on by hand.
3. If possible use a new lock washer.
4. Use the correct tool to tighten the "Starting Dog Nut". It is illustrated in
the special tools section of the factory manual part number 18G391. There is no
torque setting given for tightening the nut because this tool is designed to be
used with a BIG hammer. If is is done up tight it doesn't come loose.
I have never seen the crank thread stripped or stretched, however I have seen
them ruined as a result of having the nut forced onto a damaged thread.
Many front pulleys and even crankshafts have been seroiusly damaged due to
running with a loose "Starting Dog Nut".
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From William Wagner <wcwagner at lepton.soltec.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 08:13:10 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Resto Guide Reviewed
To Gary A. & Roger M. -
Your book made the back cover of "Auto Restorer". Got a nice,
favorable review, too. The reviewer, Ted Kade, singled out your
Restorer's Tips as one thing that was "of special interest". Just thought
you all might want to know.
Bill Wagner.
'67 BJ8
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 10:02:48 -0400
Subject: Small Electric Cooling Fans
I am contemplating electric cooling fans for my 100. With the baffle in
front of
the radiator, I am told that I need two fans. Has anyone done this, have any
recommendations on size and a possible supplier?
Thanks for your help,
Joe Smathers
1955 100
1960 3000
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 10:02:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: free pizzas
If you wanted to keep if private between you and Kent you shouldn't have cc'd
the List.
---- you wrote:
> I've never asked you a question.
>
> My comments are and were to Kent Lacy. If you don't want to visit my
> website, please don't feel compelled to. I don't hold shotguns to annoys
> head to MAKE them visit. And if you don't like Pete Rose, that is OK.
>
> I remember sending you a note telling you to lighten up on someone for their
> posting of some Bill Clinton jokes. So now you attack me??
>
> Dick, be cheerful as your name implies, not spiteful.
>
> Don
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at cyberlink.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 10:00:18 -0500
Subject: Wheels from England
Listers,
I'm gathering info. on wire wheels for one of my cars and need to find
out who manufactures the wire wheels that Vic. British sells. Its so hard
to get info. from a Co. that doesn't have any type of technical assistance
available. I know, so why do I bother with them? This will complete my
research on wires from the four major co. that have been passed around the
list, and I would like to keep this info. for future reference for my other
cars in need.
The best info the order line could come up with was that they were made
in England.( It amazes me that they would have that info. and not the
manufactures name.)Does anyone know who this might be. Dunlops are made in
India so it can't be them.
Thanks, Mark
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 10:10:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Young Folks
You can't expect every young person to fall over in a swoon when they see a
Healey. My intent was to keep mine and pass it on to one of my kids when I
leave this mortal plane. Guess what? None of them want it. They'ed sell it
in a heartbeat. Am I upset? A little. But the Healey is my thing. It's up to
me to find other people who like them. I joined a club. To each his own.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
-----Original Message-----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: kturk@ala.net <kturk@ala.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, July 08, 2000 7:15 AM
Subject: Re: Young Folks
>
>In a message dated 7/8/00 7:01:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time, kturk@ala.net
>writes:
>
><< thier Little mini
> Truck's and Lowered Honda's.... These guys don't make squat for a
living....
> but every penny they have they stick in those cars....what I noticed is
that
> they weren't sticking it up thier nose.... and besides how would you get
> past the nose ring's... >>
>
>Totally agree, Keith! Around here in Southern Maryland the dream of most
>boys is to get an Aspire, Accord or some other nondescript car and pour
much
>bucks into trick wheels and them skinny tires, not to mention bass
blasters.
>While I can't stand hearing those cars reverberating 50 yards away, it sure
>beats wasting money on "consumables" such as drugs and booze, and assuming
>any of these kids can hear in the future they will have gained an
>understanding about earning money to buy what they want--the basis of our
>system. I gew up (sorta), so will they.
>
>Michael--St. Leonard, MD.
>(usta waste $$ on toys for his TR3 when young--now wastes it on his BN1)
>
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 12:34:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Young Folks
Geez Ray! Why don't you adopt me? I may be 57, but I'd love your Healey
when you are gone.
Lee
'62 Tri-carb BT7
>
>You can't expect every young person to fall over in a swoon when they see
a
>Healey. My intent was to keep mine and pass it on to one of my kids when I
>leave this mortal plane. Guess what? None of them want it. They'ed sell it
>in a heartbeat. Am I upset? A little. But the Healey is my thing. It's up
to
>me to find other people who like them. I joined a club. To each his own.
>RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Awgertoo@aol.com <Awgertoo@aol.com>
>To: kturk@ala.net <kturk@ala.net>
>Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Date: Saturday, July 08, 2000 7:15 AM
>Subject: Re: Young Folks
>
>
>>
>>In a message dated 7/8/00 7:01:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time, kturk@ala.net
>>writes:
>>
>><< thier Little mini
>> Truck's and Lowered Honda's.... These guys don't make squat for a
>living....
>> but every penny they have they stick in those cars....what I noticed is
>that
>> they weren't sticking it up thier nose.... and besides how would you get
>> past the nose ring's... >>
>>
>>Totally agree, Keith! Around here in Southern Maryland the dream of most
>>boys is to get an Aspire, Accord or some other nondescript car and pour
>much
>>bucks into trick wheels and them skinny tires, not to mention bass
>blasters.
>>While I can't stand hearing those cars reverberating 50 yards away, it
sure
>>beats wasting money on "consumables" such as drugs and booze, and assuming
>>any of these kids can hear in the future they will have gained an
>>understanding about earning money to buy what they want--the basis of our
>>system. I gew up (sorta), so will they.
>>
>>Michael--St. Leonard, MD.
>>(usta waste $$ on toys for his TR3 when young--now wastes it on his BN1)
>>
>
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 12:45:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Young Folks
In a message dated 7/8/00 12:43:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
lmairs@ix.netcom.com writes:
<< Geez Ray! Why don't you adopt me? I may be 57, but I'd love your Healey
when you are gone.
Lee >>
GET IN LINE, BUSTER!!!
Michael
From Kent Lacy <oxballs at netzero.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 13:15:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Free Pizzas
Thanks to all who responded off list to my comments about Mr. Yarber's
outrageous conduct at his local Pizza Hut. I enjoyed your replies very
much. I don't know many of you well, but I''d like to.
To those who were kind enough to inquire about my " minimum
wage, minimum brain " daughter; she's doing quite well. After
graduation from Vanderbilt Univ. in 1995, she has an executive
position with a major record label in Nashville at age 25. She
earns enough to send the old man a few bucks if he needs it.
Loves Healeys by the way, has two.
Thanks again.
Kent
____________NetZero Free Internet Access and Email_________
Download Now http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
___________________________________________________________
From Bill Holt <lbcholt at one.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 13:48:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Free Pizzas
I have only one last question . . . .
Vanderbilt grad, good job, 25 years old, owns two Healeys . . . . .heck, is
she married?!?!?!?
Oops, sorry, I guess that wasn't a technical Healey question. "Please stay
on the topic" flames I fear are now imminent!
Bill Holt
>To those who were kind enough to inquire about my " minimum
>wage, minimum brain " daughter; she's doing quite well. After
>graduation from Vanderbilt Univ. in 1995, she has an executive
>position with a major record label in Nashville at age 25. She
>earns enough to send the old man a few bucks if he needs it.
>Loves Healeys by the way, has two.
>
>Thanks again.
>Kent
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 11:20:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
Depends, if the jet line has fallen of the float bowl....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan F Cross" <AlanX@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2000 3:53 AM
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
>
> Has anyone tried putting a fat electrolytic capacitor across the gauge?
> Until I look into the resistances involved in the sensor and meter I
> don't know what sort of value will do the trick, but it could never be
> too big - even a time constant of 10 minutes or so is not going to
> disguise the true reading (yes, I know Healeys empty their tanks pretty
> fast, but not *that* fast!).
>
>
>
> In message <005f01bfe89f$96264dc0$0d13c2cf@neiltrelenberg>, Neil
> Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net> writes
> >
> >If the gas tanks have no baffles inside then the float will bob around
when
> >ever the tank is not quite full and the gas is sloshing from vehicle
> >movement. The gas gauge is an undamped movement (unlike new vehicles) and
> >will respond to the slightest movement of the float assembly. Put a wine
> >cork in a dish pan of water and slosh it back and forth, at some point
the
> >cork may almost hit the bottom and other times will almost come over the
lip
> >of the pan. All movements (ok most) of domestic vehicles are damped
> >including oil pressure. The amount of damping varies on the type of
gauge,
> >to quick and to much makes people nervous. I think they feel they should
be
> >able to look at a gauge and always see the needle in the same general
area.
> >So for most people what's the purpose of gauges in domestic vehicles
(tongue
> >in cheek)....got me....Neil
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
> >To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 5:51 PM
> >Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Hi, Lee --
> >> No, the thing sliding around wasn't the float It felt and sounded like
a
> >> substantial piece of sheet metal, but I couldn't make it slide to a
place
> >> where I could see it. I removed the old sensor assembly from the old
tank
> >> and installed it in the new tank (as in, just bought from Moss -- long
> >> story). The fuel gauge, which worked normally three years ago stayed
> >> constantly on 1/4 tank (rheostat windings somehow got damaged, and the
> >wiper
> >> was almost worn in two anyway), so I replaced it with a new sensor
> >assembly.
> >> The gauge then registered accurately when steady, but is mostly not
steady
> >> unless the tank is completely full or almost empty. That's nothing
> >new --
> >> it has worked that way since I've owned the car (1984).
> >> I haven't tried the alternate ground with the new tank and sensor, but
I
> >did
> >> a long time ago with the old setup. Didn't make any difference that I
> >could
> >> see. I wire brushed the sensor wire, which is part of a new harness,
and
> >> sensor terminal before connecting the wire, so that shouldn't be the
> >> problem.
> >>
> >> Steve
> >>
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
> >> To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >> Date: Thursday, July 06, 2000 8:44 AM
> >> Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
> >>
> >>
> >> >
> >> >Steve -
> >> >This may sound dumb, but are you sure the thing you heard sliding
around
> >> >wasn't the float from end of the arm on the fuel sender unit?
> >> >
> >> >If not, the gremlins can probably be made to seek out an MG or TR6 if
you
> >> >run a light guage wire from one of the bolts holding the sending unit
to
> >> the
> >> >tank to one of the machine screws that provide the return path for
the
> >> rear
> >> >lights. I believe the jumping arround and/or flickering is caused by
> >dirt
> >> >etc. on contacts and/or the casual nature of the way the gas tank is
> >> >grounded. The new wire corrects the later. Cleaning the contact/nut
on
> >> the
> >> >gauge sender unit fixes the former.
> >> >Lee
> >> >62 Mk II Tri-carb
> >> >
> >> >-----Original Message-----
> >> >From: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
> >> >To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >> >Date: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 9:51 PM
> >> >Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >>
> >> >>I just put a new tank and sending unit in my BJ8. The old tank had
> >> >>something rather large sliding around in it, and I always assumed it
> >must
> >> >be
> >> >>a baffle broken loose because the gauge waved about when less than
full,
> >> >>especially when accelerating or decelerating. Now, not only does it
> >wave
> >> >as
> >> >>before, it occasionally snaps quickly from side to side (full to
empty
> >and
> >> >>back) and then vibrates somewhere around the correct reading. When
it's
> >> >not
> >> >>doing this, it's pretty steady and correct. Electrical gremlins, I
> >> >>suppose.
> >>
> >> >>Steve Byers
> >> >>HBJ8L/36666 - TARHEELY
> >> >>Havelock, NC USA
> >> >>"It is better to remain silent, and be thought a fool
> >> >>than to speak, and remove all doubt" -- Mark Twain
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
>
> Alan Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
>
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 16:28:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Insulation material
Ron
I would have called you but I see you're not listed in the AHCA directory.
Here's the deal - I don't know how to access the Healey List archives. Maybe
another Lister can help us.
Char-Broil (1-800-241-8981) makes a BarBQ Accesory called a Smoker Blanket. It
is a rectangle of heavy aluminum foil/quilted, two-ply, with fiberglass batting
in the middle. It has snaps on two edges so you can wrap it around a standard
Smoker - about 3 ft high and 18" in diameter, TO KEEP THE HEAT IN. The unit is
about 1/8" or 1/4" thick.
It costs about $5 plus tax. I bought two of them at my local Menards, removed
the carpet, seats, trans tunnel of my BT7 and "upholstered" all the horizontal
surfaces and the footwells and the firewall. Then I replaced the tunnel and I
had enough to cover it as well. The material is flexible but rigid enough that
I didn't even glue it down or tape it down. It conformed.
You should be able to get it from Char-Broil direct or at Home Depot or
whatever your local "category-killer" is called.
If you fail to find it, send me $6 for each one you want plus $6 postage (for
two) and $8 postage (for three) and I'll buy them, pack them up and mail them
to you.
I've done this a few times for listers and so far have lost $2-4 per shipment,
and since I'm reposting this to the List I'd like to cut my losses for future
orders <G> That's why I increased my price estimates slightly (in case you
find the Archives and see $15/pair referred to). (In my 65 years I've at least
discovered that I can't make up for small losses on the Volume - HaHa.)
But I'll be glad to do the legwork for you if need be.
Regards,
DickB
612-571-4227
'62 AH BT7 MK II Tri-Carb
---- you wrote:
> thanks
> Dick - but how do I go to the archives?
> Thanks
> Ron
>
> dickb@cheerful.com wrote:
>
> > Ron
> >
> > Go back in the List archives and you'll find lots of discussion about an
>1/8" foil on both sides/fiberglas in the middle blanket available from
>Char-Broil as a Smoker Insulating Blanket. About $5 and two will cover your
>entire floor - even for a 2+2
> >
> > Contact me off List of you can't find it at your local Menards or Home
>Depot or from Char-Broil direct
> >
> > DickB
> > '62 BT7TriCarb
> > ---- you wrote:
> > >
> > > Listers:
> > >
> > > I am on a mission to make the interior of my BJ8 cooler on warm days
> > > (which is most here in So Cal).
> > > I am looking for the light weight space blanket type material to slip
> > > under the carpet and over the transmission tunnel. I already have the
> > > stuff that is foil on one side and felt on the other and I am looking
> > > for an additional layer. This would be like the space blanket material.
> > > Any ideas on where to find this stuff?
> > >
> > > Ron Rader
> > > Marina del Rey CA
> > > 1965 BJ8
> > >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> > Get your free email from AltaVista at http://altavista.iname.com
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 16:47:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Small Electric Cooling Fans
Cory,
Thanks for the note. Gary Anderson advises that many 100's in Japan
have added two fans and kept the baffle. I have asked for advice from
the Japan Austin Healey Club, but have had no reply. I am still
looking. Also when I started having this problem, I found that my
timing was retarded by 17 degrees.
Thanks for your help.
Joe
From "JISah102" <ah102 at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 17:04:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Insulation material
For the Archives, go to www.listquest.com, select autmobiles, british cars,
healeys. Then search on any key word.
Good Luck, Jim
From Allen Edwards <allene at ispchannel.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 14:09:23 -0700
Subject: Getting the gear out of my BN1 three speed.
As I posted last week, I broke second gear (third in the box) on my BN1
last weekend. I now have the gearbox out of the car and on the
workbench. I can see that the gear should have 26 teeth but only has
24. The cluster looks fine. I replaced these gears in 1968, you would
think they would last longer than that ;)
Anyway, I certainly don't remember taking the overdrive out last time
but don't remember the instructions the local mechanic gave me. He
passed away last year so guess I will have to ask the list. What is the
best way to get the gears our of a 3 speed BM1 transmission?
After looking at the photo of taking the OD off and seeing all the
springs, it makes me nearrrrrvious. Any help is appreciated.
Allen
From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 17:19:58 EDT
Subject: Wire Harness Q
Help!! I have installed all of the harness in my BJ8 except for the rear
portions. The chassis harness is what I am stuck on. So far I have it
routed properly back as far as the rear axle...now what? Do I come up over
the axle, or under it? If I go under, then how does the fuel pump power line
get routed? Which side do I enter the trunk from? I can find no pictures in
any of my books of the wiring that far back, and my car had it removed back
there when I got it. Thanks in advance!
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 17:48:18 EDT
Subject: Re: No Subject
In a message dated 7/7/00 9:12:08 PM, dyarber@dynasty.net writes:
<< I've never asked you a question.
My comments are and were to Kent Lacy. If you don't want to visit my
website, please don't feel compelled to. I >>
Please, would you guys just take this outside? The rest of us are trying to
talk Healeys here. Thanks
Gary Anderson
From JustBrits at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 18:11:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Insulation material
In a message dated 07/08/2000 3:30:46 PM Central Daylight Time,
dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<< Ron
I would have called you but I see you're not listed in the AHCA directory.
>>
Huuuum, Dick, "sad state of affairs", huh!!
Cheers...........
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
Founding Member (& Delegate), ILLINI Chapter - AHCA (22+ years)
Member, AHCUSA
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 14:58:06 -0600
Subject: Re: No Subject
My sentiments as well
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <dyarber@dynasty.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2000 3:48 PM
Subject: Re: No Subject
>
>
> In a message dated 7/7/00 9:12:08 PM, dyarber@dynasty.net writes:
>
> << I've never asked you a question.
>
> My comments are and were to Kent Lacy. If you don't want to visit my
> website, please don't feel compelled to. I >>
>
> Please, would you guys just take this outside? The rest of us are trying
to
> talk Healeys here. Thanks
> Gary Anderson
>
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 21:24:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Young Folks
Keith
This almost brought tears to my eyes.
It's a shame only those of us on the Healey List get to read it.
I think it's a beautiful note on which to terminate this thread.
Thank you
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> You know I have been having some thoughts about this and really wanted to
> close this subject and move on... but these thoughts persist... so I wanted
> to share them with you all... This is long and Protracted and has damn
> little to do with Healey's....
>
> I was the High School drop out working at the Ave #3 Pizza in Southern
> California back in 1974.... I wasn't the sharpest Pencil in the Box....
> Pimple's and Long Hair....
>
> So lets take a sec and see Just how I turned out? Joined the Army ( that
> or go To Jail for 13 speeding tickets hmmm you reckon I always liked speed?)
> 14 yrs of night school....and ended up with several degrees one in
> Aeronautic's from Embry Riddle. Spent 20 yrs in the Military and Retired as
> a Chief Warrant Officer 4..... Served my Country in 4 countries overseas to
> include the Gulf War.... ( Yuck ) When I retired I was one of the Army's
> senior instructor pilots in the AH-64 Apahce.
>
> Retired 4 years ago and bought a business... started with Nothing ( and I
> still have most of it ) we make Fake Rocks... for the building industry....
> currently employing 15 Young People... Now to the Point of this whole
> thing....
>
> I sit there everyday and watch my Hero's come to work with thier Little mini
> Truck's and Lowered Honda's.... These guys don't make squat for a living....
> but every penny they have they stick in those cars....what I noticed is that
> they weren't sticking it up thier nose.... and besides how would you get
> past the nose ring's.... the one kid with the Blue hair.... now here is an
> interesting character...
> but they work Hard for a Living... and I treat them JUST like I wanted to be
> treated.... with respect and dignity .... I mentor them and try to help them
> find direction....
>
> I don't Drive the Hundred to work often but when I do... I make sure that I
> point out that I bought it when I was thier Age.... and it was My Honda....
> I have offered Rides in it as well.. ( yeah there would be a line for that )
>
> if you think about it.... These Kids are going to lead our Country in our
> old age.... and after watching them work and sweat... I have no fear that
> they will do a Great job..... all they need is Time to Mature and decent
> people to Give them a Chance in Life....
>
> At 42 I am Lucky to have come this far... to be racing a car on the Salt
> Flats and Driving Healey's ....
>
> Keith Turk ( didn't mean to be egotistical just ment to show that what you
> see today isn't what you will have tomarrow )( These are good kids raised by
> honest Parents who are searching for thier own way in Life )
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 22:26:22 -0700
Subject: RE: Fuel Gage....
"What's the purpose of [heavily damped] gauges in domestic vehicles...?"
NONE! That's one reason for idiot lights, aka "the damage is already done
sucker..." - oh how I hate them.
Give me needle movement anyday!
Brad
55 bn1 (with amp meter)
90 jeep with full gauges
86 honda with gauges that have no numbers... hmmm...
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 01:42:14 -0400
Subject: Don and his AMEX
Don,
I just heard about all of your problems at home with the restaurant
folks....those young teens really have some nerve...
While you and Mr. Lacy settle on his paying your debt at the Pizza Hut I
do wish you'd tell me where the second misfortune occurred. I feel
confident as an upscale sort of Am Ex carrying individual that your
inquiry of that young person was on point. You obviously had no cash nor
any other card to present and taking that young person at his or her word
found an opportunity to enjoy a meal and not be embarrassed by having the
upscale card refused when that was the only method of payment available.
But did you ever stop to think.......
The young person who misspoke (that is made an error) did so
unintentionally. Nor do I suppose you thought your tongue lashing the
Manager insisting on a free meal brought some serious perhaps unjustified
repercussions to that young person....No I dare say neither you nor your
kids ever made a mistake.
Don as I said before let me know where that second restaurant is. I
would like to pay your bill there and see if I can't get that kids job
back for him.
But if you're ever in Rock Island Illinois please let me know...I'd like
to BUY your lunch someplace so you won't embarrass yourself here....I'll
just pick up the tab as I don't think I want to be seen in your company.
Besides our community likes seeing young kids trying to hold down a job
and even at minimum wage we don't belittle them or their capacity nor do
we like to see other folks do it either....we understand that young
people need to get a first job, learn to make mistakes and take
responsibility for them, and understand the work ethic in general...in
other words we don't hold our young folks to the same standards as say we
would a 67 year old professional like yourself. That's why they start at
minimum wage......NOT some kind of corporate conspiracy....WE WANT our
youth to move up and on....perhaps one day to handle your Healy parts
needs.
Oh by the way en route here I'd advise you to bring along your Visa or
Mastercard or perhaps CASH as only a small percentage of restaurants
accept Am Ex....but you knew that all along didn't you ;<)
R Kirk
From Allen Edwards <allene at ispchannel.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 23:24:46 -0700
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
Not sure they damp them on purpose. Modern gages are simple and cheap.
They use a bi-metal strip and a resistor. When current goes through the
resistor it heats up. The heat bends the bi-metal strip and that makes
the needle move. The thermal mass gives a long time constant and thus
the needle appears damped. As we used to say, "That is not a bug, it is
a feature."
my 2 cents,
Allen
Brad Weldon wrote:
>
> "What's the purpose of [heavily damped] gauges in domestic vehicles...?"
>
> NONE! That's one reason for idiot lights, aka "the damage is already done
> sucker..." - oh how I hate them.
>
> Give me needle movement anyday!
>
> Brad
> 55 bn1 (with amp meter)
> 90 jeep with full gauges
> 86 honda with gauges that have no numbers... hmmm...
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Neil Trelenberg
> Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 10:41 PM
> To: Steve Byers; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
>
> If the gas tanks have no baffles inside then the float will bob around when
> ever the tank is not quite full and the gas is sloshing from vehicle
> movement. The gas gauge is an undamped movement (unlike new vehicles) and
> will respond to the slightest movement of the float assembly. Put a wine
> cork in a dish pan of water and slosh it back and forth, at some point the
> cork may almost hit the bottom and other times will almost come over the lip
> of the pan. All movements (ok most) of domestic vehicles are damped
> including oil pressure. The amount of damping varies on the type of gauge,
> to quick and to much makes people nervous. I think they feel they should be
> able to look at a gauge and always see the needle in the same general area.
> So for most people what's the purpose of gauges in domestic vehicles (tongue
> in cheek)....got me....Neil
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 17:03:12 +1000
Subject: Re: Young Folks
Gee sometimes I think my kids can't wait for me to kick it !!
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
>
> You can't expect every young person to fall over in a swoon when they see
a
> Healey. My intent was to keep mine and pass it on to one of my kids when I
> leave this mortal plane. Guess what? None of them want it. They'ed sell it
> in a heartbeat. Am I upset? A little. But the Healey is my thing. It's up
to
> me to find other people who like them. I joined a club. To each his own.
> RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 09 Jul 2000 20:44:26 +1000
Subject: Early BN1 Chassis
Hello All
I'm interested in trying to determine just at what body number the BN1
changed from the Pre Production/ Early Production chassis style to the
chassis that we all have come to know on our cars. For those who don't
know, at least the first 45 ( that I know of ) cars had the early style
chassis that doesn't have the raised top and bottom seam on all the
chassis members and a number of other variations. Images can be found on
the following page on my site -
http://www.users.bigpond.com/acmefluid/45.html
I have only quoted 45, as this car is in Melbourne Australia where I am
so there could be a lot more that were built to the early design. Number
45 was built about July 1953 according to it's Heritage certificate.
This list has access to Healey owners world-wide which makes it a
powerful resource in gathering information about the cars we admire, so
I don't think it is outside our collective ability to track this change
down to THE car. So if you know of a BN1 that has a smooth top chassis
rail, how about letting us all know.
Larry Varley
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
From PVANDAL at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 09:07:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Small Electric Cooling Fans
Has anyone done this (electric pushing fans) with a 3000? The cross members
seem to interfere with most fans on the market due to the limited clearance
requiring a very narrow fan.
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 21:14:26 +0800
Subject: Re: Wheels from England
Mark
When I unpacked my Dunlop wheels ( from Moss USA) there was a slip enclosed
about balancing. The address on the slip for further enquiries was
Motor Wheel Service Ltd
Langley Business Pk
Station Road
Langley
Berkshire
Ph. 0753 49360
Maybe they can help.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in reassembly mode.
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark and kathy LaPierre <mgtrcars@cyberlink.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2000 11:00 PM
Subject: Wheels from England
>
> Listers,
> I'm gathering info. on wire wheels for one of my cars and need to
find
> out who manufactures the wire wheels that Vic. British sells. Its so hard
> to get info. from a Co. that doesn't have any type of technical assistance
> available. I know, so why do I bother with them? This will complete my
> research on wires from the four major co. that have been passed around the
> list, and I would like to keep this info. for future reference for my
other
> cars in need.
> The best info the order line could come up with was that they were
made
> in England.( It amazes me that they would have that info. and not the
> manufactures name.)Does anyone know who this might be. Dunlops are made
in
> India so it can't be them.
>
> Thanks, Mark
>
>
>
From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 08:14:45 -0600
Subject: Re: free pizzas
Wow this thread is sooo interesting. It ranks up there with the Landrover
list's debate on the best way to attach a toilet seat to the rear cross
member.
Ross
>
> If you wanted to keep if private between you and Kent you shouldn't have
cc'd the List.
>
> ---- you wrote:
> > I've never asked you a question.
> >
> > My comments are and were to Kent Lacy. If you don't want to visit my
> > website, please don't feel compelled to. I don't hold shotguns to
annoys
> > head to MAKE them visit. And if you don't like Pete Rose, that is OK.
> >
> > I remember sending you a note telling you to lighten up on someone for
their
> > posting of some Bill Clinton jokes. So now you attack me??
> >
> > Dick, be cheerful as your name implies, not spiteful.
> >
> > Don
> >
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
>
From Bob McElwee <bobmac at i1.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 09 Jul 2000 10:12:48 -0500
Subject: Brake Light Swithch
Listeners,
We seem to be running through brake light switches rather quickly on my
daughters 67 BJ8 which uses silicon fluid. Had another local member
mentions the same problem.
I think I remember hearing a VW switch that would work. Not necessarily
better but it would be cheaper.
Does anyone know if that is true, and if so, what the part number would
be?
TIA
Bob Mc
62 BT7
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 11:15:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Wire Harness Q
Hi, Chris --
The harness comes down the left (driver's side) chassis rail almost to the
rear axle. Then, it goes up and is attached to a harness clamp under the
left rear seat pan (the clamp is attached with a screw in the center front
edge of the seat pan opening). The fuel pump power wire takes off at this
point and runs along the front upper edge of the rear seat pan support
structure over to the pump. I think there is another harness clamp under
the right rear seat pan to support the fuel pump wire. The main harness is
attached with another harness clamp to the left rear shock absorber bump
box, still under the left rear seat pan opening. From the clamp, it goes
through a grommet on the left side of the trunk front bulkhead into the
trunk.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: Csooch1@aol.com <Csooch1@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, July 08, 2000 5:28 PM
Subject: Wire Harness Q
>
>Help!! I have installed all of the harness in my BJ8 except for the rear
>portions. The chassis harness is what I am stuck on. So far I have it
>routed properly back as far as the rear axle...now what? Do I come up over
>the axle, or under it? If I go under, then how does the fuel pump power
line
>get routed? Which side do I enter the trunk from? I can find no pictures
in
>any of my books of the wiring that far back, and my car had it removed back
>there when I got it. Thanks in advance!
>Cheers,
>Chris
>BJ8
>XJ6
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 11:38:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Insulation material
John
How about you email me your complete address and I'll mail you a piece? Or if
you wish I'll buy you a couple here and mail them to you.
DickB
---- you wrote:
> Dick
>
> We don't have these blankets in oz. No barbque smokers either.
> Could you be so kind as to explain in some more detail the constructionof
> these blankets? Perhaps I can replicate it here. Trying to find all sorts of
> methods to keep the car cooler. Winter temps today 20 degrees C. Summer last
> year was 20 days over 36 degrees C. Everything cooks, including the
> navigator and as she is the financial manager as well it pays to keep her
> cool.
>
> TIA
>
> Regards
> JohnRowe
> Perth
> Western Australia
> BT7 in reassembly mode.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
> To: F. Ronald Rader <rader@interworld.net>; austin healey list
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2000 4:28 AM
> Subject: Re: Insulation material
>
>
> >
> > Ron
> >
> > I would have called you but I see you're not listed in the AHCA
> directory.
> >
> > Here's the deal - I don't know how to access the Healey List archives.
> Maybe another Lister can help us.
> >
> > Char-Broil (1-800-241-8981) makes a BarBQ Accesory called a Smoker
> Blanket. It is a rectangle of heavy aluminum foil/quilted, two-ply, with
> fiberglass batting in the middle. It has snaps on two edges so you can wrap
> it around a standard Smoker - about 3 ft high and 18" in diameter, TO KEEP
> THE HEAT IN. The unit is about 1/8" or 1/4" thick.
> >
> > It costs about $5 plus tax. I bought two of them at my local Menards,
> removed the carpet, seats, trans tunnel of my BT7 and "upholstered" all the
> horizontal surfaces and the footwells and the firewall. Then I replaced the
> tunnel and I had enough to cover it as well. The material is flexible but
> rigid enough that I didn't even glue it down or tape it down. It conformed.
> >
> > You should be able to get it from Char-Broil direct or at Home Depot or
> whatever your local "category-killer" is called.
> >
> > If you fail to find it, send me $6 for each one you want plus $6 postage
> (for two) and $8 postage (for three) and I'll buy them, pack them up and
> mail them to you.
> >
> > I've done this a few times for listers and so far have lost $2-4 per
> shipment, and since I'm reposting this to the List I'd like to cut my losses
> for future orders <G> That's why I increased my price estimates slightly
> (in case you find the Archives and see $15/pair referred to). (In my 65
> years I've at least discovered that I can't make up for small losses on the
> Volume - HaHa.)
> >
> > But I'll be glad to do the legwork for you if need be.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > DickB
> > 612-571-4227
> > '62 AH BT7 MK II Tri-Carb
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> > > thanks
> > > Dick - but how do I go to the archives?
> > > Thanks
> > > Ron
> > >
> > > dickb@cheerful.com wrote:
> > >
> > > > Ron
> > > >
> > > > Go back in the List archives and you'll find lots of discussion about
> an 1/8" foil on both sides/fiberglas in the middle blanket available from
> Char-Broil as a Smoker Insulating Blanket. About $5 and two will cover your
> entire floor - even for a 2+2
> > > >
> > > > Contact me off List of you can't find it at your local Menards or Home
> Depot or from Char-Broil direct
> > > >
> > > > DickB
> > > > '62 BT7TriCarb
> > > > ---- you wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Listers:
> > > > >
> > > > > I am on a mission to make the interior of my BJ8 cooler on warm days
> > > > > (which is most here in So Cal).
> > > > > I am looking for the light weight space blanket type material to
> slip
> > > > > under the carpet and over the transmission tunnel. I already have
> the
> > > > > stuff that is foil on one side and felt on the other and I am
> looking
> > > > > for an additional layer. This would be like the space blanket
> material.
> > > > > Any ideas on where to find this stuff?
> > > > >
> > > > > Ron Rader
> > > > > Marina del Rey CA
> > > > > 1965 BJ8
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> > > > Get your free email from AltaVista at http://altavista.iname.com
> > >
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> >
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From TDTR3 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 12:28:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake Light Swithch
In a message dated 7/9/2000 8:14:36 AM, bobmac@i1.net writes:
<< a VW switch that would work >>
It's the switch for the old Beetle.
It does work better in that it activates with less pressure.
Ken
BN4
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 13:17:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
I'm not so sure about gauges anymore. On marine diesel engines we always
install a loud alarm to get your attention when the idiot light comes on.
If you pump oil or coolant out of an engine, the guages shoot up and unless
you see them start and act right away, you've missed your chance. Folks
just don't spend their time motoring along looking at the gauges - even
ex-pilots. An idiot light, is much easier to catch in your "scan" pattern.
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
>NONE! That's one reason for idiot lights, aka "the damage is already done
>sucker..." - oh how I hate them.
>
>Give me needle movement anyday!
>
>Brad
>55 bn1 (with amp meter)
>90 jeep with full gauges
>86 honda with gauges that have no numbers... hmmm...
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
>[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Neil Trelenberg
>Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 10:41 PM
>To: Steve Byers; healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
>
>
>
>If the gas tanks have no baffles inside then the float will bob around when
>ever the tank is not quite full and the gas is sloshing from vehicle
>movement. The gas gauge is an undamped movement (unlike new vehicles) and
>will respond to the slightest movement of the float assembly. Put a wine
>cork in a dish pan of water and slosh it back and forth, at some point the
>cork may almost hit the bottom and other times will almost come over the
lip
>of the pan. All movements (ok most) of domestic vehicles are damped
>including oil pressure. The amount of damping varies on the type of gauge,
>to quick and to much makes people nervous. I think they feel they should be
>able to look at a gauge and always see the needle in the same general area.
>So for most people what's the purpose of gauges in domestic vehicles
(tongue
>in cheek)....got me....Neil
>
>
>
From howard young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 09 Jul 2000 12:58:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Young Folks
" on his BN1"...........that's not a WASTE!,that's an INVESTMENT!
HoYo
disclaimer......"in fun" and a real classic, not to start the cars vs. stocks n
bonds thread.......
ps feel the same 'bout my "pups",too!
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 7/8/00 7:01:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time, kturk@ala.net
> writes:
>
> << thier Little mini
> Truck's and Lowered Honda's.... These guys don't make squat for a living....
> but every penny they have they stick in those cars....what I noticed is that
> they weren't sticking it up thier nose.... and besides how would you get
> past the nose ring's... >>
>
> Totally agree, Keith! Around here in Southern Maryland the dream of most
> boys is to get an Aspire, Accord or some other nondescript car and pour much
> bucks into trick wheels and them skinny tires, not to mention bass blasters.
> While I can't stand hearing those cars reverberating 50 yards away, it sure
> beats wasting money on "consumables" such as drugs and booze, and assuming
> any of these kids can hear in the future they will have gained an
> understanding about earning money to buy what they want--the basis of our
> system. I gew up (sorta), so will they.
>
> Michael--St. Leonard, MD.
> (usta waste $$ on toys for his TR3 when young--now wastes it on his BN1)
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 09 Jul 2000 13:06:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake Light Swithch
Ken
Which model/year of Beetle (VW)?
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
TDTR3@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 7/9/2000 8:14:36 AM, bobmac@i1.net writes:
>
> << a VW switch that would work >>
>
> It's the switch for the old Beetle.
> It does work better in that it activates with less pressure.
>
> Ken
> BN4
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 23:03:00 +0100
Subject: Re: Wheels from England
The correct phone number is 01753 549360 - the number you have is many
years old.
>From outside the UK it's +44 1753 549360
Email: info@mwsint.com
Web: www.mwsint.com
They fitted me a set of five Firestones a couple of months ago, did a
thoroughly good job, and told me all the things I needed to know about
the state of my wheels.
In message <003c01bfe9a7$9c2d7be0$864341ca@new>, John Rowe
<jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au> writes
>
>Mark
>When I unpacked my Dunlop wheels ( from Moss USA) there was a slip enclosed
>about balancing. The address on the slip for further enquiries was
>Motor Wheel Service Ltd
>Langley Business Pk
>Station Road
>Langley
>Berkshire
>Ph. 0753 49360
>
>Maybe they can help.
>
>Regards
>
>John Rowe
>Perth
>Western Australia
>BT7 in reassembly mode.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Mark and kathy LaPierre <mgtrcars@cyberlink.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2000 11:00 PM
>Subject: Wheels from England
>
>
>>
>> Listers,
>> I'm gathering info. on wire wheels for one of my cars and need to
>find
>> out who manufactures the wire wheels that Vic. British sells. Its so hard
>> to get info. from a Co. that doesn't have any type of technical assistance
>> available. I know, so why do I bother with them? This will complete my
>> research on wires from the four major co. that have been passed around the
>> list, and I would like to keep this info. for future reference for my
>other
>> cars in need.
>> The best info the order line could come up with was that they were
>made
>> in England.( It amazes me that they would have that info. and not the
>> manufactures name.)Does anyone know who this might be. Dunlops are made
>in
>> India so it can't be them.
>>
>> Thanks, Mark
>>
>>
>>
>
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 18:37:51 -0400
Subject: Re: NA ATW Wrap-up
Bob Brown wrote:
> I can't thank everyone enough for the outstanding help that everyone
> provided! Some had more activity than others, but just the same
> everyone stepped up to the plate and did what was needed.
>
> I want to mention a couple of people that had a high level of activity
> when it came their turn to help out. Jim Hutton, Anchorage, Colin
> Martindale & Ward Stebner, Banff, Dick Brill, Duluth, Rich Chrysler,
> Niagara Falls, and finally Tom Mulligan, Newark. Each of these people
> did the Austin Healey owners of North America proud by contributing
> their time and talents to keep Team Healey on the road.
>
> Most of the maintenance required was routine, except for the raising
> of the Facel engine 1/2 inch for better clearance, replacing the Hunt's
> rear springs TWICE, and of course locating an engine for the Facel and
> then shipping and installing it in Duluth. To locate a fresh BJ8 engine
> with a rally cam and other "things" was a treat. The Facel crew is
> quite pleased with their "new" engine. Even if there were a few slight
> delays in the installation.
>
> Again, I thank you all!
> Morocco to London is all that is remaining.
It was truly an honour and a pleasure to have had the opportunity to help
these people in their efforts. The cars were outstanding in their carefully
thought out preparation and competition designs, and the builders of the
cars and their crews are to be commended for their achievements thus far.
It is a credit to the original designers of these cars as well, that they
have withstood the punishment of the journey.
Just to have met these good folks, and sat in these cars, let alone helped
out, was a high point that I will always remember.
Go Healeys!
Rich Chrysler
From TDTR3 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 18:48:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake Light Swithch
In a message dated 7/9/2000 12:06:28 PM, edriver@sk.sympatico.ca writes:
<< Which model/year of Beetle (VW)? >>
General Automotive Specialty Co.
30070
for VW 1961-74
A good thing that I saved the box.
Ken
BN4
From Susan and John Roper <vscjohn at huntnet.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 09 Jul 2000 21:02:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Young Folks
Hey Keith, You missed the important stuff. Any friend of Smokey's is ok by me.
John
Keith Turk wrote:
> You know I have been having some thoughts about this and really wanted to
> close this subject and move on... but these thoughts persist... so I wanted
> to share them with you all... This is long and Protracted and has damn
> little to do with Healey's....
>
> I was the High School drop out working at the Ave #3 Pizza in Southern
> California back in 1974.... I wasn't the sharpest Pencil in the Box....
> Pimple's and Long Hair....
>
> So lets take a sec and see Just how I turned out? Joined the Army ( that
> or go To Jail for 13 speeding tickets hmmm you reckon I always liked speed?)
> 14 yrs of night school....and ended up with several degrees one in
> Aeronautic's from Embry Riddle. Spent 20 yrs in the Military and Retired as
> a Chief Warrant Officer 4..... Served my Country in 4 countries overseas to
> include the Gulf War.... ( Yuck ) When I retired I was one of the Army's
> senior instructor pilots in the AH-64 Apahce.
>
> Retired 4 years ago and bought a business... started with Nothing ( and I
> still have most of it ) we make Fake Rocks... for the building industry....
> currently employing 15 Young People... Now to the Point of this whole
> thing....
>
> I sit there everyday and watch my Hero's come to work with thier Little mini
> Truck's and Lowered Honda's.... These guys don't make squat for a living....
> but every penny they have they stick in those cars....what I noticed is that
> they weren't sticking it up thier nose.... and besides how would you get
> past the nose ring's.... the one kid with the Blue hair.... now here is an
> interesting character...
> but they work Hard for a Living... and I treat them JUST like I wanted to be
> treated.... with respect and dignity .... I mentor them and try to help them
> find direction....
>
> I don't Drive the Hundred to work often but when I do... I make sure that I
> point out that I bought it when I was thier Age.... and it was My Honda....
> I have offered Rides in it as well.. ( yeah there would be a line for that )
>
> if you think about it.... These Kids are going to lead our Country in our
> old age.... and after watching them work and sweat... I have no fear that
> they will do a Great job..... all they need is Time to Mature and decent
> people to Give them a Chance in Life....
>
> At 42 I am Lucky to have come this far... to be racing a car on the Salt
> Flats and Driving Healey's ....
>
> Keith Turk ( didn't mean to be egotistical just ment to show that what you
> see today isn't what you will have tomarrow )( These are good kids raised by
> honest Parents who are searching for thier own way in Life )
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 11:08:03 -0700
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
Good point Allen, I believe your right. I stand corrected....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen Edwards" <allene@ispchannel.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2000 11:24 PM
Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
>
> Not sure they damp them on purpose. Modern gages are simple and cheap.
> They use a bi-metal strip and a resistor. When current goes through the
> resistor it heats up. The heat bends the bi-metal strip and that makes
> the needle move. The thermal mass gives a long time constant and thus
> the needle appears damped. As we used to say, "That is not a bug, it is
> a feature."
>
> my 2 cents,
>
> Allen
>
> Brad Weldon wrote:
> >
> > "What's the purpose of [heavily damped] gauges in domestic vehicles...?"
> >
> > NONE! That's one reason for idiot lights, aka "the damage is already
done
> > sucker..." - oh how I hate them.
> >
> > Give me needle movement anyday!
> >
> > Brad
> > 55 bn1 (with amp meter)
> > 90 jeep with full gauges
> > 86 honda with gauges that have no numbers... hmmm...
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Neil Trelenberg
> > Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 10:41 PM
> > To: Steve Byers; healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: Fuel Gage....
> >
> > If the gas tanks have no baffles inside then the float will bob around
when
> > ever the tank is not quite full and the gas is sloshing from vehicle
> > movement. The gas gauge is an undamped movement (unlike new vehicles)
and
> > will respond to the slightest movement of the float assembly. Put a wine
> > cork in a dish pan of water and slosh it back and forth, at some point
the
> > cork may almost hit the bottom and other times will almost come over the
lip
> > of the pan. All movements (ok most) of domestic vehicles are damped
> > including oil pressure. The amount of damping varies on the type of
gauge,
> > to quick and to much makes people nervous. I think they feel they should
be
> > able to look at a gauge and always see the needle in the same general
area.
> > So for most people what's the purpose of gauges in domestic vehicles
(tongue
> > in cheek)....got me....Neil
>
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 00:59:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: NA ATW Wrap-up
Rich
I was about to write something similar in response to Bob Brown's generous
remarks - but then I read yours and couldn't express my feeling better than you
did.
So DITTO
It was really a pleasure to work with you on getting the replacement engine for
the Facel-Vega on a couple of days notice - your getting it to Duluth - and
having the Facel back on the road by the sixth day after their call for help.
You were a miracle worker and I sure know who to call when my BT7 engine
finnaly tires of its' water/oil coolant, - and I need to find a drop-in
replacement.. But I'll try to give you Twice as long to locate it - like Four
Days. <G>
Best regards,
Dick Brill
---- you wrote:
> Bob Brown wrote:
> > I can't thank everyone enough for the outstanding help that everyone
> > provided! Some had more activity than others, but just the same
> > everyone stepped up to the plate and did what was needed.
> >
> > I want to mention a couple of people that had a high level of activity
> > when it came their turn to help out. Jim Hutton, Anchorage, Colin
> > Martindale & Ward Stebner, Banff, Dick Brill, Duluth, Rich Chrysler,
> > Niagara Falls, and finally Tom Mulligan, Newark. Each of these people
> > did the Austin Healey owners of North America proud by contributing
> > their time and talents to keep Team Healey on the road.
> >
> > Most of the maintenance required was routine, except for the raising
> > of the Facel engine 1/2 inch for better clearance, replacing the Hunt's
> > rear springs TWICE, and of course locating an engine for the Facel and
> > then shipping and installing it in Duluth. To locate a fresh BJ8 engine
> > with a rally cam and other "things" was a treat. The Facel crew is
> > quite pleased with their "new" engine. Even if there were a few slight
> > delays in the installation.
> >
> > Again, I thank you all!
> > Morocco to London is all that is remaining.
> It was truly an honour and a pleasure to have had the opportunity to help
> these people in their efforts. The cars were outstanding in their carefully
> thought out preparation and competition designs, and the builders of the
> cars and their crews are to be commended for their achievements thus far.
> It is a credit to the original designers of these cars as well, that they
> have withstood the punishment of the journey.
> Just to have met these good folks, and sat in these cars, let alone helped
> out, was a high point that I will always remember.
> Go Healeys!
> Rich Chrysler
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 07:20:30 +0100
Subject: Re: Wheels from England
Well I actually wanted the Dunlop SP20s originally - as everyone here on
the list says they are the right profile and diameter, but
disappointingly Dunlop in the UK confirmed that they are not available
in the UK (something to do with euro-spec speed ratings?). Also I wanted
the name 'Dunlop' on my Healey tyres, as that is what the car came with
back in '67 (I have one of her original and bald RoadSpeeds as a
souvenir!)
So on MWS advice I opted for Firestone 'F560' 165TR15, on my original
4.5" 60-spoke wheels.
In message <d3.6da7859.269a7485@aol.com>, Editorgary@aol.com writes
>
>In a message dated 7/9/00 2:22:17 PM, AlanX@proaxis.demon.co.uk writes:
>
><< They fitted me a set of five Firestones >>
>
>What size firestones on what size/# of spokes wheel?
>Cheers
>Gary
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
From "Jan Andersson" <janne.andersson at orebro.se>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:20:42 +0200
Subject: wheel balance
The easiest way to balance wire-wheels is to use an old Healey rear hub
extension with spinner and bolt it on the tyre shops balancing machine. Most
balancing machines do have the possibility to bolt on an adapter plate for
balancing wheels without a hole in the centre (a lot of French cars lacks
centre hole). On some machines a spacer is needed between the hub and the
balancing machine to avoid the bolts on the machine to foul the centre of the
wheel and on some machines you need to bring your own conical nuts.
When the extension is fitted to the balancing machine put the wheel on the
extension, tighten the spinner (it doesn't matter if you use a hexagonal nut or
a spinner because the mass of the spinner is situated in the centre of the
wheel and won't affect the balance) and balance the wheel.
I've used this method for about 10 years on all my British cars and I do have
perfect balance on all of them.
Regards Jan Andersson
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 05:51:03 -0400
Subject: Dog nut
Hi all:
The washer on my bn1 is bent over on a couple of the flats of the nut. I
guess that doesn't mean the nut and washer couldn't loosen: I've haven't
had mine off yet, don't know if the washer goes on one way or not (slotted
or not). Getting ready to replace my timing chain and tensioner ring. btw
what does the list think of the tensioner ring; is it needed at all? I
believe there was a thread awhile back about the tensioner ring
disintegrating or being made of poor quality rubber and falling apart
causing
damage. TIA
lance
54 bn1
----- Original Message -----
From: James B Dalglish <leaker@exit109.com>
To: Dr. C Rubino <ruvino@recorder.ca>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 7:29 PM
Subject: Re:
>
> OK Dr. I'll do one better. After a total engine rebuild by a Healy
specialist I
> get my engine back and a tin can with the very same washer in it. A year
later
> I'm ready to do the shakedown run. Off I go on my favorite drive up the
Delaware
> and bam, I hear a really bad noise. The Jesus Christ nut came off the
crank and
> eats the fan and the radiator. Soooooooooo everyone, make sure the crank
bolt is
> fitted with the aforementioned washer otherwise it gets real expensive.
>
> Jim Dalglish
> Manasquan NJ
> The tuna are back!
>
> "Dr. C Rubino" wrote:
>
> > I had an interesting experience a couple of days ago.
> >
> > After turning a corner I heard the sound of metal on metal. On
examination I
> > found a large (2.5") diameter washer sitting on the frame. In addition
to
> > being large it had a slot cut in the top obviously to help lock it in
place.
> >
> > Well what the heck was it? I simply couldn't figure it out so took it to
the
> > Healey nuts at the Sports Car Factory (hallville.com) and asked the
million
> > dollar question "What is this?" John immediately identified it as the
> > locking washer for the starter dog nut on the end of the crankshaft that
> > holds the pulley in place.
> >
> > Sure enough the dog was missing. How long I have no idea. Why didn't the
> > pulley fall off and destroy my engine compartment-i have no idea.
> >
> > The good news is that without too much trouble (pulling the rad) we
replaced
> > both parts and things are safe again.
> >
> > The bad news is that my wife was with me and it seems that the
infrequent
> > times she deems to ride in the Healey a part falls off (infrequently in
both
> > cases). Nevertheless it has raised her anxiety obout our soon to take
place
> > weekend trip from Perth to Kingston, ferrying across Lake Ontario to
Wolf
> > Island then ferrying to Sacket's Harbour NY then ClaytonNY then home.
Did I
> > say she doesn't like being on water either?
> >
> > Maybe if she started on a trial of Prozac right away-hm!
>
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:22:12 -0400
Subject: paint code
Hi all,
this is not suppose to be difficult but I sent 2 hours at my
local paint shop trying to get the formula for ICI 3742 which now is
PPG-74150 and called signal red. I can get this in the new concept
series but am troubled by the hazards. I need the formula for Lacquer,(I
know I'm old fashioned) but I do not want to work with the newer paints.
I'm told that this color was not available in Lacquer, which I doubt
because it was available in the 50's and 60's. Does anyone have the
formula for this in Lacquer
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:magicare@home.com]
Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 10:52 AM
To: Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: paint code
"Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" wrote:
> Hi All,
> does anyone know the paint code for Colorado Red
>
> Thanks,
> Fred
ICI 3742
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 07:38:55 -0600
Subject: She Runs! Great!
Well, After a busy winter and long spring of motor rebuild in my BJ8, I
completed the install on Saturday morning.... pushed her out of the shop,
ticked her over with no coil wire to get some oil going, hooked her all up
and she fired of immediately.. runs perfect. Put about 60 miles on
Saturday before I had to leave for a 1.5 day climb in the Tetons and plan to
put another 60 miles on here today.. Got to run down to the motor rebuild
guys shop...
Thanks to all for the replies on various topics....
Got to lay her up for a few more days to put several new hub on her then
install the new wheels and tires..... Good fun.......
Thanks again...
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
From Kent Lacy <oxballs at netzero.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 10:47:55 -0400
Subject: Re: paint code
Fred,
The Sherwin-Williams code for Colorado Red is RD-2 The lacquer
number is JR-4969-R
Kent
"Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" wrote:
> Hi all,
> this is not suppose to be difficult but I sent 2 hours at my
> local paint shop trying to get the formula for ICI 3742 which now is
> PPG-74150 and called signal red. I can get this in the new concept
> series but am troubled by the hazards. I need the formula for Lacquer,(I
> know I'm old fashioned) but I do not want to work with the newer paints.
> I'm told that this color was not available in Lacquer, which I doubt
> because it was available in the 50's and 60's. Does anyone have the
> formula for this in Lacquer
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Salter [mailto:magicare@home.com]
> Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 10:52 AM
> To: Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: paint code
>
> "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" wrote:
>
> > Hi All,
> > does anyone know the paint code for Colorado Red
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Fred
>
> ICI 3742
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
_______________________________________________
Why pay for something you could get for free?
NetZero provides FREE Internet Access and Email
From ccruz at tribune.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:56:00 -0500
Subject: Horns & Horn Push Spring
G' day listers,
Can someone recommend a source for a good set of Big Healey horns?
Also, I believe my horn assembly is missing the horn push spring.
Moss doesn't have a part number listed in their catalog. I will be
seeking a suitable replacement at the local hardware store and can use
your help. Can someone provide me with the rough dimensions of the
spring (i.e. diameter and length)?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
1960 AH BN7
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 10:37:59 -0500
Subject: Re: wheel balance
Hi Folks,
I concur with Jan, this is an effective way to balance wire wheels on a
conventional spin-balancer. The piece in question is called a Mag wheel
adapter; it allows a wheel, or hub in this case, to be mounted via the
bolts, not the centre. You have to use them on the wobbly web style Cragar
rims that used to be quite popular. The original Healey rear hub nuts are
the same thread as the adapter and thus clear the hub with no spacer (at
least on my machine). Make sure the conical surface of the hub is free from
burrs, rust pits and steps. A new hub works best! This adapter is also
useful for balancing the pressed steel wheels as their centres are not
always concentric with the bolt pattern. Hope this helps.---Peter (BMC
Restorations)
-----Original Message-----
From: Jan Andersson <janne.andersson@orebro.se>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, July 10, 2000 2:48 AM
Subject: wheel balance
The easiest way to balance wire-wheels is to use an old Healey rear hub
extension with spinner and bolt it on the tyre shops balancing machine. Most
balancing machines do have the possibility to bolt on an adapter plate for
balancing wheels without a hole in the centre (a lot of French cars lacks
centre hole). On some machines a spacer is needed between the hub and the
balancing machine to avoid the bolts on the machine to foul the centre of
the wheel and on some machines you need to bring your own conical nuts.
When the extension is fitted to the balancing machine put the wheel on
the extension, tighten the spinner (it doesn't matter if you use a hexagonal
nut or a spinner because the mass of the spinner is situated in the centre
of the wheel and won't affect the balance) and balance the wheel.
I've used this method for about 10 years on all my British cars and I do
have perfect balance on all of them.
Regards Jan Andersson
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 11:24:38 -0500
Subject: Re: paint code
Hi Fred,
This is a problem I have been frustrated by for years. It seems that PPG
(and others) reformulated their lacquer paints from the old nitrocellulose
base to an acrylic base. The mixing colours and their proportions were also
changed, weakened or strengthened, which results in the old (cellulose)
formulas being worthless in the new (acrylic) paint. Paints that were big
sellers were reformulated with the new acrylics, but the vast majority
weren't. Bear in mind that many of these paints were a hopeless match to
begin with, so it is doubtful how much use they'd be anyway. Most paint
shops now offer computer matching, in any formulation you choose, but it
still takes a trained eye to get it perfect. The old colours tend to be less
vivid, or dirtier than today's colours. If you get it custom mixed, make
sure they write down the formula as they go. Also, get it mixed in a similar
quantity each time (Quart etc.), because sometimes multiplying the formula
to yield a larger quantity results in a different colour (don't ask me why).
It is particularly a problem when there is a very small amount of a colour
(i.e. it may take 2 drops of yellow to make a quart of white turn ivory, yet
it may only take six drops to do a gallon, rather than eight). Some
companies have obviously put some effort into historic colours. Sikkens,
Spies-Hecker and Glasurit certainly have. I used Spies-Hecker on my Healey
blue BJ8, after becoming frustrated with the big companies' inability to get
close (there was no local Sikkens dealer). A rep' mixed a tenth of a pint
free for me to look at; the colour was such that I instantly said "now
that's Healey blue!" It's basecoat-clearcoat but acrylic lacquers aren't too
good for you either. Hope this helps---Peter (BMC Restorations)
-----Original Message-----
From: Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA <fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, July 10, 2000 8:40 AM
Subject: paint code
Hi all,
this is not suppose to be difficult but I sent 2 hours at my
local paint shop trying to get the formula for ICI 3742 which now is
PPG-74150 and called signal red. I can get this in the new concept
series but am troubled by the hazards. I need the formula for Lacquer,(I
know I'm old fashioned) but I do not want to work with the newer paints.
I'm told that this color was not available in Lacquer, which I doubt
because it was available in the 50's and 60's. Does anyone have the
formula for this in Lacquer
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:magicare@home.com]
Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 10:52 AM
To: Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: paint code
"Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" wrote:
> Hi All,
> does anyone know the paint code for Colorado Red
>
> Thanks,
> Fred
ICI 3742
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 14:01:03 -0400
Subject: RE: Engine Stand
Yeah but, Don, you got a free meal out of it!
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Yarber [mailto:dyarber@dynasty.net]
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 10:12 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Engine Stand
I thought all the dumb people lived in my town.
We went to a Pizza Hut recently for a pizza. The girl dropped our silver
ware on the floor. Instead of picking it up, she deliberately kicked it
under the counter.
She took our order, never said thanks and never once offered to re-fill my
coffee. We ordered two pizzas, the second one for $7.
There was a sign on the counter that said, "If we don't show you your pizza
to take out, it is free"
She failed to show it to us. I demanded it free. The manager said she
would have to put our name in a book and the next time we came in we would
get a free pizza.
I informed her that the sign did not spell out such stipulation and we
insisted and eventually got the pizza free.
Then at another restaurant three days later I specifically asked the
waitress if they took "American Express" and was told yes..they took "all
kinds of credit cards". When I went to pay the tab, they informed me that
my AMEX card wasn't welcome there.
I insisted that I was told it would be accepted and eventually got the meal
free.
What's all this have to do with Austin Healeys???
Nothing.
But the point is that good help is hard to find now-a-days and if you are
looking for something specific for an Austin Healey, you should go to the
Austin Healey people. I've given up on "fast service" places.
Like one person said, they pay minimum wage and they have minimum
brain-power people working there.
Don
BN7
From "DHT" <dht at erols.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 14:16:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine Stand
What I want to know is did you leave a 10% or 15% tip.
>
> Yeah but, Don, you got a free meal out of it!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Don Yarber [mailto:dyarber@dynasty.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 10:12 PM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: Engine Stand
>
>
>
> I thought all the dumb people lived in my town.
>
> We went to a Pizza Hut recently for a pizza. The girl dropped our silver
> ware on the floor. Instead of picking it up, she deliberately kicked it
> under the counter.
>
> She took our order, never said thanks and never once offered to re-fill my
> coffee. We ordered two pizzas, the second one for $7.
> There was a sign on the counter that said, "If we don't show you your
pizza
> to take out, it is free"
> She failed to show it to us. I demanded it free. The manager said she
> would have to put our name in a book and the next time we came in we would
> get a free pizza.
> I informed her that the sign did not spell out such stipulation and we
> insisted and eventually got the pizza free.
> Then at another restaurant three days later I specifically asked the
> waitress if they took "American Express" and was told yes..they took "all
> kinds of credit cards". When I went to pay the tab, they informed me that
> my AMEX card wasn't welcome there.
> I insisted that I was told it would be accepted and eventually got the
meal
> free.
>
> What's all this have to do with Austin Healeys???
>
> Nothing.
>
> But the point is that good help is hard to find now-a-days and if you are
> looking for something specific for an Austin Healey, you should go to the
> Austin Healey people. I've given up on "fast service" places.
> Like one person said, they pay minimum wage and they have minimum
> brain-power people working there.
>
> Don
> BN7
>
>
>
From "Mondrosch, John" <John.Mondrosch at icn.siemens.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 14:55:26 -0400
Subject: Set of painted wires on ebay
Passing along info...no personal interest yada yada
Nice looking set of painted wire wheels on ebay auction closes on the 17th.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=379046271&;
r=0&t=0
John Mondrosch
'63 BJ7
From "John Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 12:16:59 -0700
Subject: New Jersey Registration Requirements
Can anyone give me the basics on registering a Healey in New Jersey -- is a
smog check required on a 1958 BN6? What about safety inspections. None of
this is required in Nevada and we are considering a move back East so any
help would be appreciated.
John Sims, BN6
Las Vegas
From Bill Holt <lbcholt at one.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 16:03:08 -0400
Subject: British Car Day - Cincinnati - Sunday, July 16, 2000
Just a reminder about this coming Sunday, July 16th in Cincinnati . . . . . .
How do you get the most out of Summer? With the 14th Annual Cincinnati
British Car Day (featuring MG), a gathering of the British Car Faithful,
sponsored by the Ohio Valley Austin-Healey Club and the British Car Club of
Greater Cincinnati, and you are invited. Where you ask? Edgewater Sports
Park in Southwestern Ohio, just minutes west of downtown Cincinnati. Join
us for this one day event on Sunday, July 16, 2000. Gates open at 9:00 a.m.
with registration for judging closing at 12:00 noon and trophies awarded by
4:00 p.m. Entry fee on the day of the show is $15.00. Admission for adult
spectators is $4.00; children under 12 are free. Food, refreshments and
restrooms are available with plenty of parking and tree shaded areas for
vendors and participants alike.
As an added attraction, Edgewater drag strip will be available exclusively
to all registered British cars. For an additional fee of $20.00,
participants may time their vehicle individually on the track throughout
the afternoon. All drivers must wear long pants, seat belts, rated safety
helmets, and have working coolant recovery containers on the cars.
For more information check out the web site at
http://members.aol.com/BCCGC/index.html
Thanks,
Bill Holt
Ft. Mitchell, KY
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 16:08:28 -0400
Subject: RE: New Jersey Registration Requirements
register it as a classic QQ plates and avoid all..
-----Original Message-----
From: John Sims [mailto:J_L_Sims@email.msn.com]
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2000 3:17 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: New Jersey Registration Requirements
Can anyone give me the basics on registering a Healey in New Jersey -- is a
smog check required on a 1958 BN6? What about safety inspections. None of
this is required in Nevada and we are considering a move back East so any
help would be appreciated.
John Sims, BN6
Las Vegas
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 17:02:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Early BN1 ID cards
Hi Joe,
The plastic tag is approximately 2" x 3 1/8" with rounded corners. There
is one pictured on p.47 of Clausager's book. I could do a 'rubbing' of one
and fax it to you if you wish. My '39 Austin 8 has an identical tag except
for the chassis numbers. Interestingly, it seems to have been placed on the
drivers side, so a right hand drive car has it on the right inner footwell
(unless the one on p.47 is in the wrong place), and vice-versa on cars sold
here. Strange. The only thing that would make one hard to make is that the
letters are embossed into the plastic. You would probably have to have an
engraver do that. Check with Rob Stuart at Austin Works
(http://www.AustinWorks.com) he would know if replacements are being made.
Cheers---Peter (BMC Restorations)
-----Original Message-----
From: Joseph Elmer <Joelmer@worldnet.att.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, July 04, 2000 9:05 AM
Subject: Early BN1 ID cards
Does anyone know the dimensions of the white plastic ID card that
fastens to the inside left body panel just ahead of the door? Or does
anyone sell blanks? Joe Elmer, 53BN1.
From JMcD206 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon Jul 10 18:33:09 2000
Subject: Door Mirrors
Listers, At a couple of car shows I have seem side mirrors that fit into the
side curtain Sockets on 100-4's and 100-6's. Does anyone know where I can get
them?
Thanks
Jim McDermott
BN4 (It is on the road again!)
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 18:48:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Early BN1 ID cards
In a message dated 7/10/00 2:39:54 PM, pbrauen@telepak.net writes:
<< The plastic tag is approximately 2" x 3 1/8" with rounded corners. There
is one pictured on p.47 of Clausager's book. I could do a 'rubbing' of one
and fax it to you if you wish. My '39 Austin 8 has an identical tag except
for the chassis numbers. Interestingly, it seems to have been placed on the
drivers side, so a right hand drive car has it on the right inner footwell
(unless the one on p.47 is in the wrong place), and vice-versa on cars sold
here. Strange. The only thing that would make one hard to make is that the
letters are embossed into the plastic. >>
John Wheatley measured his as 2 inches by 3 3/16 inches. Actually, the style
of manufacture shouldn't be too hard to duplicate by any local company that
makes identification badges and trophies. They have machines that can cut
the laminated plastic to the proper size, then engrave through the top color
layer to the color layer underneath. White over black is a standard color
for them. A reproduction of the plate is shown on the title page of the
BN1/BN2 Service Parts List, and we've reproduced that diagram in our book.
That would give the engraver sufficient info to select a similar type size
and font.
'Course, it might be hard to convince a DMV inspector that some engraved
plastic plate screwed into the vinyl on the interior of a car is the real,
official, VIN number plate. Don't forget that there was also a chassis
number plate on the right frame rail.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 15:49:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: NGK plugs
Jim,
Thanks for the tip. I was planning to use Color Tune
this weekend in preparation for a trip to Monterey in
August. I will take a closer look at the plugs during
that time as well.
By the way, the car runs great, but my gas mileage is
terrible (15 at best). I get the same great mileage
in the Range Rover. Using the push pins under the
dash pots produces the expected results - slight
increase in RPM than fall off. I was thinking about
leaning out the car anyway to improve the mileage or
color tune to get it closer. Any advise? I have not
used the color tune kit before.
Dean BN7
-
__________________________________________________
Get Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 18:56:21 EDT
Subject: Time Warp Time
I think I just returned from a time warp. Drove my BN7 into a Union 76
station this
morning because I'd seen another Healey there a few weeks ago. "Sure we can
change
your oil and flush your radiator." Two hours later, I rode along with the
mechanic on
a test drive, with everything completed, including a lube job and shocks
tightened.
I must confess that they used the new filter core that I brought along, and
my gasket for the oil canister (I suggested they take it off the side of the
block to make sure we got the rubber ring removed and replaced properly), and
I pointed out all three points from which to drain the oil and showed him
where to refill the tranny. But his general skills were excellent and other
than Healey specifics (he said he had only worked on the one other one) he
knew his way around a tool box.
But the fact that they actually had three mechanics working, one in each
service bay, and they were reasonably young, and they all seemed competent,
was something you don't see on every street corner the way you once did.
And no oil on my driveway!
Cheers
Gary
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 19:23:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Early BN1 ID cards
Hi Robert,
I stand corrected and chastised. Funny how one can look at something for
YEARS and not examine it closely enough to realize it isn't right. The
plastic plate in question is undoubtedly that, but it does not belong on
this car. All that remains of the text is the imprint of the letters, and it
is embarrassingly obvious that it is from an A40 (Doh!) ---Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit@juno.com>
To: pbrauen@telepak.net <pbrauen@telepak.net>
Date: Monday, July 10, 2000 5:25 PM
Subject: Re: Early BN1 ID cards
Plastic ID cards in 1939 from the UK...? ? ? ? ....sounds a bit peculiar
to me....I thought rayon.....the 1st plastic was invented just pryor to
the WWII...nylon invented during and all the poly stuff suitable for ID
tags etc., after......PLEASE EXPOND ! ! ! Was DuPont aced by the
English?
R Kirk
On Mon, 10 Jul 2000 17:02:04 -0500 Peter Brauen <pbrauen@telepak.net>
writes:
>
> Hi Joe,
> The plastic tag is approximately 2" x 3 1/8" with rounded
> corners. There
> is one pictured on p.47 of Clausager's book. I could do a 'rubbing'
> of one
> and fax it to you if you wish. My '39 Austin 8 has an identical tag
> except
> for the chassis numbers. Interestingly, it seems to have been placed
> on the
> drivers side, so a right hand drive car has it on the right inner
> footwell
> (unless the one on p.47 is in the wrong place), and vice-versa on
> cars sold
> here. Strange. The only thing that would make one hard to make is
> that the
> letters are embossed into the plastic. You would probably have to
> have an
> engraver do that. Check with Rob Stuart at Austin Works
> (http://www.AustinWorks.com) he would know if replacements are being
> made.
> Cheers---Peter (BMC Restorations)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joseph Elmer <Joelmer@worldnet.att.net>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Tuesday, July 04, 2000 9:05 AM
> Subject: Early BN1 ID cards
>
>
>
> Does anyone know the dimensions of the white plastic ID card
> that
> fastens to the inside left body panel just ahead of the door?
> Or does
> anyone sell blanks? Joe Elmer, 53BN1.
>
>
From Mark Fawcett <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 17:56:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Door Mirrors
British Car Specialists in Stockton, CA has them listed in their catalog for
$39.50. They list it as "special mirror". Their # is (209) 948 8767.
JMcD206@aol.com wrote:
> Listers, At a couple of car shows I have seem side mirrors that fit into the
>side curtain Sockets on 100-4's and 100-6's. Does anyone know where I can get
>them?
>
> Thanks
> Jim McDermott
> BN4 (It is on the road again!)
From "Richard Langer" <rlanger at flex.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 19:58:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Door Mirrors
Harley Davidson Dealer
----- Original Message -----
From: <JMcD206@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2000 6:33 PM
Subject: Door Mirrors
>
> Listers, At a couple of car shows I have seem side mirrors that fit
into the side curtain Sockets on 100-4's and 100-6's. Does anyone
know where I can get them?
>
>
> Thanks
> Jim McDermott
> BN4 (It is on the road again!)
>
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 21:18:02 -0400
Subject: Re: My 3 speed is now a 2 speed :(
I don't think there is any way you can get the box apart without removing the
overdrive. It is a while since I did a BN1 box but I recall that, like the
later box, the overdrive adaptor is what locks the rear main bearing in place
and you need to get that out to get the output shaft out to take it apart.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
Allen Edwards wrote:
> Hi Michael,
>
> I have the transmission out and apart enough to see the broken gear. I
> haven't figured out how to get it completely apart but can count the
> teath. There should be 26 teath on the broken second on the road (third
> in the box) gear. There is a number on the cluster (which looks fine)
> 1B3694.
>
> I don't remember taking the overdrive out last time I replaced the
> gears. I remember the mechanic (Bud Hand) gave me step by step
> instructions (and the gears). All I have now is the manual which gives
> instructions for taking the entire thing apart. Do you have any advice
> on this part of the exercise?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Allen
>
> Michael Salter wrote:
> >
> > Allen Edwards wrote:
> >
> > > I guess it is too much to ask to go for two rides in one day. Now I
> > > have this terrible noise and rattle in second gear. I just know that a
> > > tooth is missing on something on my early BN1 3 speed. I notice that
> > > all the relevant gears say NA in the Moss Motors catalog. Anyone know
> > > what a fellow is to do in a case like this. I don't have the thing
> > > apart so don't yet know exactly the parts I need, but I do know I don't
> > > know where to get them. Anyone on the list know what to do in a case
> > > like this?
> > >
> > > Allen
> > >
> > > '54 BN1
> >
> > Hi Allen,
> > I have a reasonable collection of good used BN1 gears.
> > You have to be very careful to get the correct ones as there are two
> > different pressure angles on the different series as I recall.
> >
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Mike Salter
> > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 18:24:26 -0700
Subject: Re: Door Mirrors
I have seen the same thing, and was told they were motorcycle mirrors. I
plan to use one on my BN7 MK2 as I can't stand the thought of drilling
holes in the body of a very expensive restoration.
John Snyder
'60 BT7
'61 BN7 MK2
'62 BT7 MK2
----------
> From: JMcD206@aol.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Door Mirrors
> Date: Monday, July 10, 2000 11:33 AM
>
>
> Listers, At a couple of car shows I have seem side mirrors that fit into
the side curtain Sockets on 100-4's and 100-6's. Does anyone know where I
can get them?
>
>
> Thanks
> Jim McDermott
> BN4 (It is on the road again!)
From bn1 at flashcom.net
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 18:34:46 -0700
Subject: Re: Insulation material
dickb@cheerful.com wrote:
> John
>
> How about you email me your complete address and I'll mail you a piece? Or
>if you wish I'll buy you a couple here and mail them to you.
>
> DickB
>
<snip>
Hi Dick & listers,
I made the rounds in Orange County, southern Calif. yesterday morning. Two
Home Depots both said they no longer stock it. Home Base never
heard of it. Bar-B-Q's Galore, a referral, also never heard of it.
Dick, I'll be sending you a check for a couple of them. I'll even round it up
to an even $20 for your efforts. Many thanks for your offer!
Bill Barnett
BN1 #663
From RobertH148 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 21:52:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Door Mirrors
Jim,
I have this type of mirror on my doors. I obtained them from a Harley Davison
Dealer.
I got the wide angle mirrors. They are available in both left and right side
with long or short arms. I got the short arms.
They work great and cost about $30 each.
Bob Humphreys
AH 3000 BT7
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 21:57:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Insulation material
Your ON Bill
I guess you Left Coasters are Too Upscale. Here in Minnesota the locals smoke
fish, squirrels, moose, deer - maybe even frogs.
Now I hope, after running my big mouth, I don't discover that my local menards
has decided to stop carrying the darn things - and the long flourescent tubes
whose boxes I've been cutting down as shippers.
DickB
---- you wrote:
> dickb@cheerful.com wrote:
>
> > John
> >
> > How about you email me your complete address and I'll mail you a piece? Or
>if you wish I'll buy you a couple here and mail them to you.
> >
> > DickB
> >
>
> <snip>
>
> Hi Dick & listers,
>
> I made the rounds in Orange County, southern Calif. yesterday morning. Two
>Home Depots both said they no longer stock it. Home Base never
> heard of it. Bar-B-Q's Galore, a referral, also never heard of it.
>
> Dick, I'll be sending you a check for a couple of them. I'll even round it
>up to an even $20 for your efforts. Many thanks for your offer!
>
> Bill Barnett
> BN1 #663
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Allen Edwards <allene at ispchannel.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 19:04:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Door Mirrors
I used mirrors from Moss Motors which had a single threaded post. They
are the flat ones, not the racing variety. I threaded the post on the
mirror onto a bit of tubing that fit just right into the side curtain
socket. I must admit that the tubing I used was a little small so I
then had to (to use the technical term) bugger up the tubing to get it
to be a little tighter.
Allen
JMcD206@aol.com wrote:
>
> Listers, At a couple of car shows I have seem side mirrors that fit into the
>side curtain Sockets on 100-4's and 100-6's. Does anyone know where I can get
>them?
>
> Thanks
> Jim McDermott
> BN4 (It is on the road again!)
From Ahfrogeye at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 22:10:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Door Mirrors
Go to your local Harley dealer.
Roger Lowery
From Jaral48462 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 22:32:24 EDT
Subject: Re: paint code
Fred,
I researched the Colorado Red formula about 5 years ago and dug up the can
that I had mixed at my local automotive paint supplier. Earlier I had told
you that it was PPG that searched their archives and gave me the formula.
Actually it was Dupont that was able to give me the formula for it in Lucite
Acrylic Lacquer.
The following is from the Label the Paint Supplier used to mix the Laquer.
Tinting Guide Mix Size: Quart
406L Black (HS) 3.0
402L White (HS) 25.5
429L Red 197.5
436L Red Orange 440.0
465L Binder 929.0
VOC: 5.1 LBS/Gal Contains Lead
Hope this helps.
Ron
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 19:48:36 -0700
Subject: RE: Time Warp Time
Gary, nice to hear about young people that are employed and competent at
what they do.
Brad
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Editorgary@aol.com
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2000 03:56 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Time Warp Time
I think I just returned from a time warp. Drove my BN7 into a Union 76
station this
morning because I'd seen another Healey there a few weeks ago. "Sure we can
change
your oil and flush your radiator." Two hours later, I rode along with the
mechanic on
a test drive, with everything completed, including a lube job and shocks
tightened.
I must confess that they used the new filter core that I brought along, and
my gasket for the oil canister (I suggested they take it off the side of the
block to make sure we got the rubber ring removed and replaced properly),
and
I pointed out all three points from which to drain the oil and showed him
where to refill the tranny. But his general skills were excellent and other
than Healey specifics (he said he had only worked on the one other one) he
knew his way around a tool box.
But the fact that they actually had three mechanics working, one in each
service bay, and they were reasonably young, and they all seemed competent,
was something you don't see on every street corner the way you once did.
And no oil on my driveway!
Cheers
Gary
From "DHT" <dht at erols.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 23:06:53 -0400
Subject: wireing
I lost a post a couple of days ago that gave the routing of the wireing .
I am trying to route the wireing in the engine bay. Would appricate a
repost.
Dino
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 22:51:45 -0700
Subject: BN1/BN2 head - let's make a deal
Hello,
Sorry it took so long for a response but I've been out of the country, no not
the UK, darn it.
A couple of folks have asked about the availability of heads. As some of you
know I'm in the middle of a complete rebuild due to a thrown rod. My head is
the only thing not damaged, but I'd really like one of those aluminum ones.
Here is the deal. I have a magna-fluxed, known good BN1 head, with all new
springs, valves and seats already lapped in and ready to go.
$1,150.00 plus shipping
Brian Mix
'55 AH-100 LeMans
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
Vice-President Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 19:25:49 +0800
Subject: Re: Time Warp Time And Oil change
Gary
Perhaps you could inform us all of the three points from which to drain the
oil.
Haven't done that yet. Still to put the oil in the engine.
TIA
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in reassembly mode. (As you can tell from all the questions to the list)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2000 6:56 AM
Subject: Time Warp Time
>
> I think I just returned from a time warp. Drove my BN7 into a Union 76
> station this
> morning because I'd seen another Healey there a few weeks ago. "Sure we
can
> change
> your oil and flush your radiator." Two hours later, I rode along with the
> mechanic on
> a test drive, with everything completed, including a lube job and shocks
> tightened.
> I must confess that they used the new filter core that I brought along,
and
> my gasket for the oil canister (I suggested they take it off the side of
the
> block to make sure we got the rubber ring removed and replaced properly),
and
> I pointed out all three points from which to drain the oil and showed him
> where to refill the tranny. But his general skills were excellent and
other
> than Healey specifics (he said he had only worked on the one other one) he
> knew his way around a tool box.
>
> But the fact that they actually had three mechanics working, one in each
> service bay, and they were reasonably young, and they all seemed
competent,
> was something you don't see on every street corner the way you once did.
>
> And no oil on my driveway!
>
> Cheers
> Gary
>
From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 08:27:50 EDT
Subject: Re: wheel balance
Jan, Thanks for the help, but I haven't found a shop that is willing to spend
the time to do all the prep work to test the drums for balance let alone do
the balancing work. I haven't given up yet! Thanks Gary S.
From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 08:35:20 EDT
Subject: Re: New Jersey Registration Requirements
If you register the car as a historic vehicle there is no inspection
whatsoever required on the car, EVER!! Also once it is registered you never
have to pay a fee to reregister the vehicle every three years. I'm amazed
that I can register my car here in N.J. and not go thru inspection or pay to
reregister. If you register the car as a daily driver then you are at the
mercy of the DMV just like the rest of the cars in the state and you will
have to go thru an emissions test , although not as stringent as a newer car.
Gary S. 67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 08:54:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: paint code
If it were ME - and I wanted to paint my LBC Colorado Red, I would start with
Guards Red (Porsche) and Flash Red (Chrysler Corp) - both pretty nice red reds
and both readily available in all brands and all formulations -
Urethanes,acrylics, Iso and non-iso, water-based,one and two part, lacquer, etc.
Just my 2 cents.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> this is not suppose to be difficult but I sent 2 hours at my
> local paint shop trying to get the formula for ICI 3742 which now is
> PPG-74150 and called signal red. I can get this in the new concept
> series but am troubled by the hazards. I need the formula for Lacquer,(I
> know I'm old fashioned) but I do not want to work with the newer paints.
> I'm told that this color was not available in Lacquer, which I doubt
> because it was available in the 50's and 60's. Does anyone have the
> formula for this in Lacquer
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Salter [mailto:magicare@home.com]
> Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 10:52 AM
> To: Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: paint code
>
>
>
> "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" wrote:
>
> > Hi All,
> > does anyone know the paint code for Colorado Red
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Fred
>
> ICI 3742
>
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
t were Me
----------------------------------------------------------------
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 09:44:19 EDT
Subject: Wander Indiana recommendations
If your heading to Conclave, watch out for construction! I just drove from
Wisconsin to Georgia and back and I think the whole countries interstate
highway system is under construction! One of the worst areas appears to be
Indiana. Just about every other overpass on I-65 is being rebuilt with
massive traffic jams the result. I easily lost 1 1/2 to 2 hours using this
route through (wander about!) Indiana. Second on my list of places to hate
is Chattanooga Tenn., what a ridiculous set up, the way that I-24 (doesn't)
work! I sat for 1 1/2 and went about 1 mile before I could get off,
detoured though town, ended up on the highway by lookout mountain, and then
rejoined I-24 after Chat.
My point is check out your route before you head to Conclave, it could save
you a lot of frustration!
AND, think nothing of leaving the highway, going on some side roads, you'll
see a lot prettier countryside, and make good time as well.
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.
From sdsabel at attglobal.net
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 15:15:49 +0100
Subject: Cylinder Head chamber
Listers, does anyone know the formula for working out the correct cc of a
cylinder head chamber so that I can achieve a certain compression ratio ?
e.g. I have a BN4 plus 020, giving 2679 cc, and I want a 9:1 cr - how do I
work out what the cc of the chamber should be ?
Regards
Simon
BN4 Loingbridge
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 08:52:16 -0600
Subject: Re: BN1/BN2 head - let's make a deal
Brian,
Is that a firm price or is there a little wiggle room?
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Mix" <brianmix@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2000 11:51 PM
Subject: BN1/BN2 head - let's make a deal
>
> Hello,
>
> Sorry it took so long for a response but I've been out of the country, no
not the UK, darn it.
>
> A couple of folks have asked about the availability of heads. As some of
you know I'm in the middle of a complete rebuild due to a thrown rod. My
head is the only thing not damaged, but I'd really like one of those
aluminum ones.
>
> Here is the deal. I have a magna-fluxed, known good BN1 head, with all new
springs, valves and seats already lapped in and ready to go.
>
> $1,150.00 plus shipping
>
>
>
> Brian Mix
> '55 AH-100 LeMans
> http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
>
> Vice-President Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
>
>
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 10:57:39 EDT
Subject: Re: wheel balance
Hendrix Wire Wheel in Greensboro, NC will do the brake drum balancing for you.
(336) 852-8909 or website
www.inthetriad.com
No financial interest, just a satisfied customer.
Rudy in NC
BTW, if you have to ship it, it doesn't matter how far away you live.
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 11:06:41 -0400
Subject: Re: paint code
Dick voices something that I've been afraid to ask. I can understand a few
of the radical fringe that are re-building cars for concours getting all
spun up about the "perfect original paint match". As a new Healey owner,
I've been following this thread thinking that I must be missing something.
If it isn't concours, why does anyone care what colors are used (aside from
purples, metallics etc.)?
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
>If it were ME - and I wanted to paint my LBC Colorado Red, I would start
with Guards Red (Porsche) and Flash Red (Chrysler Corp)
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 11:26:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Cylinder Head chamber
sdsabel@attglobal.net wrote:
> Listers, does anyone know the formula for working out the correct cc of a
> cylinder head chamber so that I can achieve a certain compression ratio ?
> e.g. I have a BN4 plus 020, giving 2679 cc, and I want a 9:1 cr - how do I
> work out what the cc of the chamber should be ?
>
> Regards
>
> Simon
> BN4 Loingbridge
Hi Simon,
To measure the volume of a combustion chamber.
1. Fit the valves and seal them by spreading a very thin layer of vaseline
around the combustion chamber side edge of the valve..
2. Get a piece of perspex large enough to easily compleletely cover one
combustion chamber and drill two 1/4" holes in it about 1/2" apart that will
be positioned toward the edge of the chamber.
3. Spread some more vaseline on the head surface around the perimeter of the
chamber and "stick the perspex onto the head.
4. Set the head up so that it is level and the combustion chambers are
uppermost (upside down)
5.Use a burette or some other accurate measuring device to add water through
one of the holes until the combustion chamber is full. The second hole makes
it easier for the air to get out.
The compression ratio is Swept Volume (439.8) plus Combustion Chamber Volume
divided by Combustion Chamber Volume.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Greg Monfort" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 11:34:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Cylinder Head chamber
Here's a few sites to peruse.
http://www.koan.com/~pollys1/YFS200/High_Output/How2C
alculateUncorrectedCompressionR.html
http://www.ben.esu6.k12.ne.us/sblock/cubic.html
http://personal.mem.bellsouth.net/mem/m/a/maxxbhp/crf
orm.htm
http://www.jersey.net/~rforceno/crs/crs.htm
----- Original Message -----
>
> Listers, does anyone know the formula for working
out the correct cc of a
> cylinder head chamber so that I can achieve a
certain compression ratio ?
> e.g. I have a BN4 plus 020, giving 2679 cc, and I
want a 9:1 cr - how do I
> work out what the cc of the chamber should be ?
>
> Regards
>
> Simon
> BN4 Loingbridge
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 11:54:03 EDT
Subject: Oil changes- basic facts for newbies
In a message dated 7/11/00 4:51:50 AM, jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au writes:
<< Gary
Perhaps you could inform us all of the three points from which to drain the
oil.
Haven't done that yet. Still to put the oil in the engine.
TIA
Regards
John Rowe >>
I'm sure this isn't new to 95 percent of you, but for any new owners of
six-cylinder cars (the rest of you can go back to discussing Round-table
Pizza service):
Going from front to back–
engine oil is drained from a plug on the rear corner of the sump (takes a
very big wrench). When closing this up, you need a new compression washer to
prevent leakage.
Transmission oil is drained from a notched plug in the center of the
transmission case; note that there is a filter screen resting in the plug
(there should be a magnet in there as well). This plug takes a special
wrench, though a very large channel-lock wrench can be used in a pinch. This
plug should have a large rubber o-ring to prevent leakage.
Overdrive oil is drained from a plug in the center of the overdrive cars.
This plug also takes a special tool (looks like a simple piece of bar stock)
that was included in the original tool set, which also fits the inspection
plug and drain plug in the differential. A large socket driver will also
work. This plug has no seal, as such, so a little teflon tape around the
threads might be a good idea.
General consensus on oil to use is 20-50w oil (regular, not synthetic) in the
engine; about 6.5 quarts. In the transmission and overdrive (they share the
same oil supply) 30 weight is recommended and many people prefer to use
non-detergent to avoid having the oil carry junk in suspension. The
tranny/o'drive takes about 3.5 quarts of oil.
For typical hobby Healeys, driven fewer than 3,000 miles a year, an oil
change once a year is recommended, to include changing the filter. While the
oil is being changed, you can lube the 23 lube points and check the tightness
of the bolts on your shock absorbers and rear spring U-bolts.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 12:10:35 -0400
Subject: Re: New Jersey Registration Requirements
John:
If you register your car normally, all aspects of inspection are required -
including emissions. However, if you register as historic (QQ plates),
you won't need to inspect at all. There are restrictions on usage: shows
and events only. However, I drive mine as I please and have never been
challenged. They can't stop you to see where you're going.
Regards,
Mike L.
Bridgewater, NJ
'56 BN2
'59 BN7
'60 BT7
'60 Bugeye
'70 E-Type
'79 Midget
>- -----Original Message-----
>From: John Sims [mailto:J_L_Sims@email.msn.com]
>Sent: Monday, July 10, 2000 3:17 PM
>To: Healey List
>Subject: New Jersey Registration Requirements
>
>Can anyone give me the basics on registering a Healey in New Jersey -- is a
>smog check required on a 1958 BN6? What about safety inspections. None of
>this is required in Nevada and we are considering a move back East so any
>help would be appreciated.
>
>John Sims, BN6
>Las Vegas
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 12:27:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Cockpit Insulation
Since individual Listers keep asking for details, I'll repost this recent
summary -
My address is 1400 Rice Creek Road NE, Fridley MN 55432
"
To:
rader@interworld.net healeys@autox.team.net
From:
dickb@cheerful.com
Subject:
Re: Insulation material
CC:
Ron
I would have called you but I see
you're not listed in the AHCA directory.
Here's the deal - I don't know how
to access the Healey List archives. Maybe
another Lister can help us.
Char-Broil (1-800-241-8981) makes a
BarBQ Accesory called a Smoker Blanket.
It is a rectangle of heavy aluminum
foil/quilted, two-ply, with fiberglass
batting in the middle. It has
snaps on two edges so you can wrap it around a
standard Smoker - about 3 ft high
and 18" in diameter, TO KEEP THE HEAT
IN. The unit is about 1/8" or 1/4"
thick.
It costs about $5 plus tax. I
bought two of them at my local Menards,
removed the carpet, seats, trans
tunnel of my BT7 and "upholstered"
all the horizontal surfaces and the
footwells and the firewall. Then I
replaced the tunnel and I had
enough to cover it as well. The material is
flexible but rigid enough that I
didn't even glue it down or tape it down.
It conformed.
You should be able to get it from
Char-Broil direct or at Home Depot or
whatever your local
"category-killer" is called.
If you fail to find it, send me $6
for each one you want plus $6 postage (for
two) and $8 postage (for three) and
I'll buy them, pack them up and mail them
to you.
I've done this a few times for
listers and so far have lost $2-4 per
shipment, and since I'm reposting
this to the List I'd like to cut my losses
for future orders <G> That's why I
increased my price estimates
slightly (in case you find the
Archives and see $15/pair referred to). (In
my 65 years I've at least
discovered that I can't make up for small losses on
the Volume - HaHa.)
But I'll be glad to do the legwork
for you if need be.
Regards,
DickB
612-571-4227
'62 AH BT7 MK II Tri-Carb
----------------------------------------------------------------
From JustBrits at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 12:29:44 EDT
Subject: Re: New Jersey Registration Requirements
In a message dated 07/11/2000 11:24:01 AM Central Daylight Time,
mdlempert@worldnet.att.net writes:
<< They can't stop you to see where you're going. >>
They sure CAN in Illinois, folks.
Cheers............
Ed
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 12:04:55 -0700
Subject:
Hi Everyone
A few weeks ago, I announced that I was the new owner of a project '59
BN7. I've been having a great time with this car! I'll be posting some
pictures soon. I've been cleaning and fixing and fixing and cleaning.
The car is looking better, and it sure runs nice. Something is wrong
with every body panel, except the bonnet but after all, it is a project.
I want to mention that I bought a Falcon brand stainless exhaust system
from Moss. I was expecting a weekend-long job getting rusted steel nuts
off the exhaust manifolds. I didn't expect that PO would be nice enough
to have left the brass nuts on for me. Well, he did, and they came
right off. No problems at all. The rest of the old system pretty much
crumbled away. Well, not really, but there were so many holes in it, it
made me hungry for a swiss-cheese sandwich, Mmmmm. The new Falcon
system went right on with no hassle at all. I've installed exhaust
sytems on the six old cars that I've rehabilitated, including a 1967
E-Type (that my ex-wife caused me to sell). Far and away this was the
easiest and esthetically best installation yet. It looks exactly like
the systems on concours Healeys. Maybe I'm just more experienced, but I
doubt it. I'm certainly no wiser. Anyway, the exhaust note is
pleasant. I was expecting it to be altered somehow, but it sounds good.
My next project is to install a new wiring harness. Little remains of
the original, but I can tell how it was routed by what's left of it, and
the remaining clips. PO made lots of wiring "improvements" that I am
looking forward to undoing. This will be far more difficult than the
exhaust system, I'm sure.
The car was originally Healey Blue, as evidenced by the underlying paint
in the engine bay and other places. PO painted the firewall and
ancillary bracing members flat black with aparently no surface prep, so
it flakes off easily. There are some stubborn areas though. Question:
What do you think is the best way to remove the black paint without
removing the original paint? I plan on striping and painting the
outside of the car Healey blue, so that means the engine bay needs to be
that color as well. The look I'm going for with this car is that of an
unrestored original, so I'd like to preserve that original paint, even
if it's chipped or worn away in spots. I've tried steel wool and a fine
wire brush with success, It's do-able but it's really tedious and hard
on my hands. Any suggestions on products or methods to remove paint
that leaves the underlying paint intact? As a last resort, I'll remove
everything from the firewall, etc. strip, prep and apply a new coat of
Healey Blue. I'd like to (strike that, I WILL) get the underbonnet
cleaned up before the new harness goes in. I'm not going for a show
car, just a solid, sanitary driver that knowledgeable Healey enthusiasts
would find pleasing.
Sincerely,
Martin Johnson
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 15:26:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil changes- basic facts for newbies
In a message dated 7/11/00 9:40:29 AM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<<
\What about the Differential - how often and what with?
DickB >>
I don't know what course others may take, but I just check the diff fluid for
level and absence of particulates through the inspection hole. Since I
haven't filled it since I rebuilt the car, I'm relying on memory, but I think
that takes 90 weight hypoid oil. If you have drained it, you fill it through
the inspection hole up to level with the hole.
Cheers
Gary
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 15:03:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Daimler SP250
Reid
The SP250 has a TR3B frame - sort of; Girling Disc Brakes on all four wheels; a
fibreglass body (Not Rust Ever); all of the highest quality period electrics
and accesories; a top (Hood) that is far superior to that of a BJ8 Series 2; a
full Connolly leather interior with genuine Wilton carpeting; Smith's best
gauges; a slightly modified TR-3B tranny with slightly better ratios; and the
crowning touch:
A 2 1/2 litre hemi-head, cross flow Induction manifold, twin H8,iron block,
aluminum head that is so torquey you can Start in 4th and - without any bogging
- pull up to 120 mph.
It also has the absolutely greatest sound of any auto I know of.
It can do a high 16's 1/4 mile.
Parts are very available - except for a few (which I probably have).
Most of them (out of 2200) had no OD but one can easily be fitted as can a BW
automatic.
I have a "tits" Hardtop if you buy it and want it and need it. (Or anyone else
) - and an 95 pt spare Grille.
The rear-end is a very weak point - and very dear, if you can find one (because
of the rear disc-brakes). Steering stinks - the box is straight Healey only
upside down - it takes Arnold Schwartzenegger to park it.
Send me photos or call me and I'll be glad to consult with you by long
distance. BTW, where is it located and who owns it?
DickB
---- you wrote:
> Hi Dick,
>
> Hey, I came across a 1959 Daimler for sale, and since you owned one up until
>recently, I thought I'd ask your general thoughts on it.
>
> I remember from your posts to the Healeys list that you loved it, but give it
>to me straight: Is this another Jensen Interceptor (that is, expensive,
>chronically screwed up electrics, overheats and even NASA can't figure out how
>to make it run cool, parts are impossible to find which is fine since if you
>found any they'd all be a million dollars anyway, etc.; can you tell that I
>used to own a Jensen Interceptor?).
>
> The SP250s had a Ford V8, right? Was overdrive an option, or did they all
>have it?
>
> Anyway, any advice or warnings would be much appreciated. Thanks.
>
> Cheers,
> Reid
>
>
> ___________________________________________________
> GO Network Mail
> Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 17:12:45 EDT
Subject: Conclave
All those going to Conclave in Indianapolis please raise your hands!
Michael (^i^)
From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 17:34:20 EDT
Subject: 100 brake res. decals
I'm going to have some reproduction decals for the 100 brake reservoir made.
These will be EXACTLY as when new. The repros available today differ in a
number of whats, all of which will be corrected on the new ones:
1) the originals were water transfers, not stick-ons, as the currently
available repros are.
2) the "finish" was flat, not shiny (the repros are a sticky tape)
3) the repros are small by 1/16", or more, in both directions. Also, the
lettering is not exactly the same size or shape as on the originals.
4) the registry of colors on the repros is not very accurate.
The ones I'm getting made up should be "spot-on". If not, I won't do them,
but it looks very promising right now. I think I can price them at $6.00 ea.
The sloppy repros cost $4.50, so this is a pretty good deal for a very
limited production, accurate repro.
Availability may be 2 months, or so, down the road. This note is only to
find out if any of you are interested. If so, contact me and I'll let you
know when they are available.
Roger
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 13:39:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Oil changes- basic facts for newbies
Excellent Gary - although my plugs must have been cobbled off an old tractor,
judging by their shape and configuration.
\What about the Differential - how often and what with?
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 7/11/00 4:51:50 AM, jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au writes:
>
> << Gary
>
>
> Perhaps you could inform us all of the three points from which to drain the
>
> oil.
>
> Haven't done that yet. Still to put the oil in the engine.
>
>
> TIA
>
> Regards
>
>
> John Rowe >>
>
> I'm sure this isn't new to 95 percent of you, but for any new owners of
> six-cylinder cars (the rest of you can go back to discussing Round-table
> Pizza service):
>
> Going from front to back–
>
> engine oil is drained from a plug on the rear corner of the sump (takes a
> very big wrench). When closing this up, you need a new compression washer to
> prevent leakage.
>
> Transmission oil is drained from a notched plug in the center of the
> transmission case; note that there is a filter screen resting in the plug
> (there should be a magnet in there as well). This plug takes a special
> wrench, though a very large channel-lock wrench can be used in a pinch. This
> plug should have a large rubber o-ring to prevent leakage.
>
> Overdrive oil is drained from a plug in the center of the overdrive cars.
> This plug also takes a special tool (looks like a simple piece of bar stock)
> that was included in the original tool set, which also fits the inspection
> plug and drain plug in the differential. A large socket driver will also
> work. This plug has no seal, as such, so a little teflon tape around the
> threads might be a good idea.
>
> General consensus on oil to use is 20-50w oil (regular, not synthetic) in the
> engine; about 6.5 quarts. In the transmission and overdrive (they share the
> same oil supply) 30 weight is recommended and many people prefer to use
> non-detergent to avoid having the oil carry junk in suspension. The
> tranny/o'drive takes about 3.5 quarts of oil.
>
> For typical hobby Healeys, driven fewer than 3,000 miles a year, an oil
> change once a year is recommended, to include changing the filter. While the
> oil is being changed, you can lube the 23 lube points and check the tightness
> of the bolts on your shock absorbers and rear spring U-bolts.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 20:13:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave
Well, you can count my spouse Kay and me among those that are planning on
attending.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
President & Delegate of Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
Concours Committee Chairman- Judges & Judging
AHCA Liason for Concours
From "RR Moss" <rr_moss at hotmail.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 00:40:45 GMT
Subject: ID cards/plate
Does any one have a photo or drawing of the ID plate for the 3000
West-German Export cars which is much deeper as it includes other
information such as weights etc?
Or has any one made one of these? or got any spare blanks as mine was
missing having rescued the car from the wreckers yard after being
de-commissioned.
Regards,
Ralph
>>>
>>>>
>>Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 18:48:42 EDT
From: Editorgary@aol.com
Subject: Re: Early BN1 ID cards
In a message dated 7/10/00 2:39:54 PM, pbrauen@telepak.net writes:
<< The plastic tag is approximately 2" x 3 1/8" with rounded corners.
There
is one pictured on p.47 of Clausager's book. I could do a 'rubbing' of one
and fax it to you if you wish. My '39 Austin 8 has an identical tag except
for the chassis numbers. Interestingly, it seems to have been placed on the
drivers side, so a right hand drive car has it on the right inner footwell
(unless the one on p.47 is in the wrong place), and vice-versa on cars sold
here. Strange. The only thing that would make one hard to make is that the
letters are embossed into the plastic. >>
John Wheatley measured his as 2 inches by 3 3/16 inches. Actually, the
style
of manufacture shouldn't be too hard to duplicate by any local company that
makes identification badges and trophies. They have machines that can cut
the laminated plastic to the proper size, then engrave through the top color
layer to the color layer underneath. White over black is a standard color
for them. A reproduction of the plate is shown on the title page of the
BN1/BN2 Service Parts List, and we've reproduced that diagram in our book.
That would give the engraver sufficient info to select a similar type size
and font.
'Course, it might be hard to convince a DMV inspector that some engraved
plastic plate screwed into the vinyl on the interior of a car is the real,
official, VIN number plate. Don't forget that there was also a chassis
number plate on the right frame rail.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
>>>>
>>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 20:58:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil changes- basic facts for newbies
Gary, I think the description of the drain plugs is slightly backward (at
least for the BJ7 and BJ8): the gearbox drain is a standard "pipe plug"
looking thing with a square depression in it. It is slightly left of the
bottom centerline of the gearbox case. I use the 3/8" drive of my ratchet
to remove this plug. The differential plug looks the same, but the square
recess is bigger (more like 1/2"). I ground down the shank of a big bolt to
fit the square, and use a matching socket to remove the differential plug.
My preference is 30W non-detergent in the gearbox/overdrive and 90W hypoid
in the diff.
The O/D plug is the big notched brass plug on the very bottom of the O/D.
When you remove this (apparently the POs of my car liked to chisel it off
with a screwdriver), there is the brass filter screen and (three, in my car)
rubberized magnetic washers. Just above this in the drain hole is the O/D
pump. I use a home-made spanner to remove this plug.
Filling the diff is difficult. It's supposed to be filled until the level
is even with the bottom of the filler hole, but I have to have the rear of
the car jacked up quite a bit to get to the filler. Having suffered some
diff oil leaks past the pinion seal, I replaced the seal and filled the diff
to what I thought was about right. After I returned the car to level and
installed the plug, it continued to leak oil past the new pinion seal (I
thought it was defective) until it reached its proper level and quit.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, July 11, 2000 12:44 PM
Subject: Oil changes- basic facts for newbies
In a message dated 7/11/00 4:51:50 AM, jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au writes:
<< Gary
Perhaps you could inform us all of the three points from which to drain the
oil.
Haven't done that yet. Still to put the oil in the engine.
TIA
Regards
John Rowe >>
I'm sure this isn't new to 95 percent of you, but for any new owners of
six-cylinder cars (the rest of you can go back to discussing Round-table
Pizza service):
Going from front to back–
engine oil is drained from a plug on the rear corner of the sump (takes a
very big wrench). When closing this up, you need a new compression washer
to
prevent leakage.
Transmission oil is drained from a notched plug in the center of the
transmission case; note that there is a filter screen resting in the plug
(there should be a magnet in there as well). This plug takes a special
wrench, though a very large channel-lock wrench can be used in a pinch. This
plug should have a large rubber o-ring to prevent leakage.
Overdrive oil is drained from a plug in the center of the overdrive cars.
This plug also takes a special tool (looks like a simple piece of bar stock)
that was included in the original tool set, which also fits the inspection
plug and drain plug in the differential. A large socket driver will also
work. This plug has no seal, as such, so a little teflon tape around the
threads might be a good idea.
General consensus on oil to use is 20-50w oil (regular, not synthetic) in
the
engine; about 6.5 quarts. In the transmission and overdrive (they share the
same oil supply) 30 weight is recommended and many people prefer to use
non-detergent to avoid having the oil carry junk in suspension. The
tranny/o'drive takes about 3.5 quarts of oil.
For typical hobby Healeys, driven fewer than 3,000 miles a year, an oil
change once a year is recommended, to include changing the filter. While
the
oil is being changed, you can lube the 23 lube points and check the
tightness
of the bolts on your shock absorbers and rear spring U-bolts.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 20:59:30 EDT
Subject: Re: No Subject
In a message dated 7/11/00 1:47:34 PM, MJohnson@cfworks.com writes:
<< As a last resort, I'll remove
everything from the firewall, etc. strip, prep and apply a new coat of
Healey Blue. I'd like to (strike that, I WILL) get the underbonnet
cleaned up before the new harness goes in. I'm not going for a show
car, just a solid, sanitary driver that knowledgeable Healey enthusiasts
would find pleasing. >>
I can't suggest good paint strippings, though I'm sure others will be able
to. However, if you're serious about detailing the engine compartment and
putting in a new wiring harness, immediately give up on the idea of driving
it for awhile and remove everything connected to the engine: intake manifold,
exhaust manifold, radiator, distributor, oil filter, generator, starter,
heater blower, and air ducts. Now, with two-thirds of the engine bay
accessible, you can get some real work done. And you'll be able to do the
re-wiring a lot more easily. At that stage you can also do a really good job
of cleaning and repainting the engine, then repaint the components as they go
back in. Good time to get the radiator checked out by a radiator shop while
you're at it.
Cheers and good luck
Gary Anderson
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 21:15:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Daimler SP250
In a message dated 7/11/00 3:21:28 PM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<< Reid
The SP250 has a TR3B frame - sort of; Girling Disc Brakes on all four wheels;
a fibreglass body (Not Rust Ever); >>
Bear in mind that in the old British Car Survey, this car has gotten the
award for the ugliest British car ever designed three surveys in a row. On
the other hand, I did a profile on them a few years ago and had a ball
driving the example we used. Aside from the really unfortunate design of the
front grille, it is one hot car. British police used them for pursuit
vehicles for many years. Be very, very sure you're buying a later version
-- the earlier ones, with inadequate bracing at the scuttle and b-pillar ,
flexed so much the doors wouldn't stay closed.
Good Luck.
Gary
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 17:24:21 -0700
Subject: Re: NGK plugs
Becareful how much you lean the carbs out, you could get into big trouble. I
only get 16 to 18 mpg in town and that's with imperial gallons which are
"more" bigger. I don't suspect your that far off. I have a colour tune and
got myself into trouble once, I may use it to just have a look but no more
turny screws. The cars run on the rich side anyway...just don't lean it out
to much....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>; "the real Mr.
Finespanner" <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>; "Michael Salter"
<magicare@home.com>
Cc: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2000 3:49 PM
Subject: Re: NGK plugs
Jim,
Thanks for the tip. I was planning to use Color Tune
this weekend in preparation for a trip to Monterey in
August. I will take a closer look at the plugs during
that time as well.
By the way, the car runs great, but my gas mileage is
terrible (15 at best). I get the same great mileage
in the Range Rover. Using the push pins under the
dash pots produces the expected results - slight
increase in RPM than fall off. I was thinking about
leaning out the car anyway to improve the mileage or
color tune to get it closer. Any advise? I have not
used the color tune kit before.
Dean BN7
-
__________________________________________________
Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 18:28:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: NGK plugs
Neil,
Thanks for the advise. Because the car runs so good
now, I will just use the color tune to have a look
this weekend when I tune it up. There is no question
that most of the advise I am getting is to live with
the lower mileage and save my hotdog money for the
extra gas...
Dean
--- Neil Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net> wrote:
> Becareful how much you lean the carbs out, you could
> get into big trouble. I
> only get 16 to 18 mpg in town and that's with
> imperial gallons which are
> "more" bigger. I don't suspect your that far off. I
> have a colour tune and
> got myself into trouble once, I may use it to just
> have a look but no more
> turny screws. The cars run on the rich side
> anyway...just don't lean it out
> to much....Neil
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
> To: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq."
> <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>; "the real Mr.
> Finespanner" <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>; "Michael
> Salter"
> <magicare@home.com>
> Cc: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 10, 2000 3:49 PM
> Subject: Re: NGK plugs
>
>
>
> Jim,
> Thanks for the tip. I was planning to use Color
> Tune
> this weekend in preparation for a trip to Monterey
> in
> August. I will take a closer look at the plugs
> during
> that time as well.
>
> By the way, the car runs great, but my gas mileage
> is
> terrible (15 at best). I get the same great mileage
> in the Range Rover. Using the push pins under the
> dash pots produces the expected results - slight
> increase in RPM than fall off. I was thinking about
> leaning out the car anyway to improve the mileage or
> color tune to get it closer. Any advise? I have
> not
> used the color tune kit before.
>
> Dean BN7
>
> -
>
> __________________________________________________
> Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from
> anywhere!
> http://mail.yahoo.com/
>
__________________________________________________
Get Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 21:40:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Stripping engine compartments
IMHO you would be very wise to tread very carefully if you are intending to
remove the blower and heater and vent ducts. We ahve found these very hard to
refit well
Just a note of caution from one who has been there (many times).
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 7/11/00 1:47:34 PM, MJohnson@cfworks.com writes:
>
> << As a last resort, I'll remove
> everything from the firewall, etc. strip, prep and apply a new coat of
> Healey Blue. I'd like to (strike that, I WILL) get the underbonnet
> cleaned up before the new harness goes in. I'm not going for a show
> car, just a solid, sanitary driver that knowledgeable Healey enthusiasts
> would find pleasing. >>
>
> I can't suggest good paint strippings, though I'm sure others will be able
> to. However, if you're serious about detailing the engine compartment and
> putting in a new wiring harness, immediately give up on the idea of driving
> it for awhile and remove everything connected to the engine: intake manifold,
> exhaust manifold, radiator, distributor, oil filter, generator, starter,
> heater blower, and air ducts. Now, with two-thirds of the engine bay
> accessible, you can get some real work done. And you'll be able to do the
> re-wiring a lot more easily. At that stage you can also do a really good job
> of cleaning and repainting the engine, then repaint the components as they go
> back in. Good time to get the radiator checked out by a radiator shop while
> you're at it.
>
> Cheers and good luck
> Gary Anderson
From BGAHC at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 21:50:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave
Michael.
Last I heard (about three weeks ago) registration was at 180. I have been to
many of the Indianapolis clubs regional events in the past and they always do
an excellent job.
This year should be special with the unique car show and the speed events at
Putnam Park. One thing worth checking out in Indy is the Speedway and the
museum if you have never been before. The Indianapolis club tried to rent the
Speedway but they will not guarantee a date. If a team wants to test you get
bumped and it happens quite often.
Bluegrass is bringing 12 cars and I will be there in my rally car. I'm
looking forward to meeting many of you from the list. maybe we could all meet
in Kalers' JustBrits Penthouse Suite for a beer, how about it Ed?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 22:18:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Oil changes- basic facts for newbies
Also BT7 - that's what I meant about my plugs being from a tractor, Gary ;>)
Mine look like Steve's
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Gary, I think the description of the drain plugs is slightly backward (at
> least for the BJ7 and BJ8): the gearbox drain is a standard "pipe plug"
> looking thing with a square depression in it. It is slightly left of the
> bottom centerline of the gearbox case. I use the 3/8" drive of my ratchet
> to remove this plug. The differential plug looks the same, but the square
> recess is bigger (more like 1/2"). I ground down the shank of a big bolt to
> fit the square, and use a matching socket to remove the differential plug.
> My preference is 30W non-detergent in the gearbox/overdrive and 90W hypoid
> in the diff.
>
> The O/D plug is the big notched brass plug on the very bottom of the O/D.
> When you remove this (apparently the POs of my car liked to chisel it off
> with a screwdriver), there is the brass filter screen and (three, in my car)
> rubberized magnetic washers. Just above this in the drain hole is the O/D
> pump. I use a home-made spanner to remove this plug.
>
> Filling the diff is difficult. It's supposed to be filled until the level
> is even with the bottom of the filler hole, but I have to have the rear of
> the car jacked up quite a bit to get to the filler. Having suffered some
> diff oil leaks past the pinion seal, I replaced the seal and filled the diff
> to what I thought was about right. After I returned the car to level and
> installed the plug, it continued to leak oil past the new pinion seal (I
> thought it was defective) until it reached its proper level and quit.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
> To: jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Tuesday, July 11, 2000 12:44 PM
> Subject: Oil changes- basic facts for newbies
>
>
>
>
> In a message dated 7/11/00 4:51:50 AM, jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au writes:
>
> << Gary
>
>
> Perhaps you could inform us all of the three points from which to drain the
>
> oil.
>
> Haven't done that yet. Still to put the oil in the engine.
>
>
> TIA
>
> Regards
>
>
> John Rowe >>
>
> I'm sure this isn't new to 95 percent of you, but for any new owners of
> six-cylinder cars (the rest of you can go back to discussing Round-table
> Pizza service):
>
> Going from front to back–
>
> engine oil is drained from a plug on the rear corner of the sump (takes a
> very big wrench). When closing this up, you need a new compression washer
> to
> prevent leakage.
>
> Transmission oil is drained from a notched plug in the center of the
> transmission case; note that there is a filter screen resting in the plug
> (there should be a magnet in there as well). This plug takes a special
> wrench, though a very large channel-lock wrench can be used in a pinch. This
> plug should have a large rubber o-ring to prevent leakage.
>
> Overdrive oil is drained from a plug in the center of the overdrive cars.
> This plug also takes a special tool (looks like a simple piece of bar stock)
> that was included in the original tool set, which also fits the inspection
> plug and drain plug in the differential. A large socket driver will also
> work. This plug has no seal, as such, so a little teflon tape around the
> threads might be a good idea.
>
> General consensus on oil to use is 20-50w oil (regular, not synthetic) in
> the
> engine; about 6.5 quarts. In the transmission and overdrive (they share the
> same oil supply) 30 weight is recommended and many people prefer to use
> non-detergent to avoid having the oil carry junk in suspension. The
> tranny/o'drive takes about 3.5 quarts of oil.
>
> For typical hobby Healeys, driven fewer than 3,000 miles a year, an oil
> change once a year is recommended, to include changing the filter. While
> the
> oil is being changed, you can lube the 23 lube points and check the
> tightness
> of the bolts on your shock absorbers and rear spring U-bolts.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 22:27:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Daimler SP250
Gary
You keep asking the same people in your surveys - of course you keep getting
the same answers. On the other hand I have a Best in Show and a few Best Other
English/Best Other Marques and a Car I'd Most Like to Take Home Award. (See how
faithful I am to old girlfriends)
You and Reid are making me sorry I let mine go to the junkyard after the
accident.
BTW, a 1959 is probably an "A" spec - flexible body - BUT in restoration or
even as retrofit it can be stiffened with a brace under the dash and girders
under the sills. (These were the main "B" and "C" modifications)
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 7/11/00 3:21:28 PM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
>
> << Reid
>
> The SP250 has a TR3B frame - sort of; Girling Disc Brakes on all four wheels;
> a fibreglass body (Not Rust Ever); >>
>
> Bear in mind that in the old British Car Survey, this car has gotten the
> award for the ugliest British car ever designed three surveys in a row. On
> the other hand, I did a profile on them a few years ago and had a ball
> driving the example we used. Aside from the really unfortunate design of the
> front grille, it is one hot car. British police used them for pursuit
> vehicles for many years. Be very, very sure you're buying a later version
> -- the earlier ones, with inadequate bracing at the scuttle and b-pillar ,
> flexed so much the doors wouldn't stay closed.
>
> Good Luck.
> Gary
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 19:30:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Stripping engine compartments
Yew betcha. IMHO it would be time to pull the engine, too. Then you
can sit where it was and scrub away, paint, wrestle the uncooperative
ducting. It may not be a lot of fun but it is about as good as it
gets, short of a ground-up job.
-Roland
and you can hardly see the scars
On Tue, 11 Jul 2000 21:40:43 -0400, Krazy Kiwi wrote:
::
:: IMHO you would be very wise to tread very carefully if you are intending to
:: remove the blower and heater and vent ducts. We ahve found these very hard to
:: refit well
:: Just a note of caution from one who has been there (many times).
[in response to Gary's suggestions about pulling every removable part
off the engine to get more elbow room]
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 12:32:00 +1000
Subject: Re: Getting the gear out of my BN1 three speed.
G'day Allen
I'm afraid that the only way to strip a BN1 gearbox is to remove the
overdrive.
It does look complicated but is quite straightforward compared with the
later
gearboxes. ie you don't need three hands, universal jointed wrists and
fifteen
fingers to hold on to the no needle roller bearings
The BN1 also comes from the days of comprehensive workshop manuals and I
have
found that the instructions in the original factory manual excellent. Just
followed them to the word and you should have no problem. I am happy to
assist
in any way I can from the other side of the world.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
>>> Allen Edwards 9/07/00 7:09:23 >>>
As I posted last week, I broke second gear (third in the box) on my BN1
last weekend. I now have the gearbox out of the car and on the
workbench. I can see that the gear should have 26 teeth but only has
24. The cluster looks fine. I replaced these gears in 1968, you would
think they would last longer than that ;)
Anyway, I certainly don't remember taking the overdrive out last time
but don't remember the instructions the local mechanic gave me. He
passed away last year so guess I will have to ask the list. What is the
best way to get the gears our of a 3 speed BM1 transmission?
After looking at the photo of taking the OD off and seeing all the
springs, it makes me nearrrrrvious. Any help is appreciated.
Allen
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 22:34:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: For John Loftus re Insulation
John (I hope you spot this - I don't have your email address)
I somehow misplaced our email exchange of today. I want to post the results of
my trip to Menards (Good News) to the entire List and want to tack it on to our
exchange.
So could you re email it to me (both sides)
Thanks
DickB
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 22:56:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Daimler SP250
In a message dated 7/11/00 10:48:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<< You keep asking the same people in your surveys - of course you keep
getting the same answers. On the other hand I have a Best in Show and a few
Best Other English/Best Other Marques and a Car I'd Most Like to Take Home
Award. >>
Dick--
Shar-Peis have no doubt won Best of Show at AKC events but they are still
Butt-ugly.....
Michael
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 20:32:07 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil changes- basic facts for newbies
Hi Steve,
I recently put the BJ7 up on jackstands to check and fill the diff. so
that keeps everything level. Then I removed the right rear seat pan and
attached a short piece of clear tubing to the oil bottle spout to make
it easier to get to the filler opening. Not too difficult but I noticed
there is a breather tube with a pull off cap on the top of the diff.
housing that looks ideal for the filling operation. I'll try that the
next time...hehe.. maybe when the new 3.5 rearend arrives.....
Cheers,
John
Steve Byers wrote:
>
> Filling the diff is difficult. It's supposed to be filled until the level
> is even with the bottom of the filler hole, but I have to have the rear of
> the car jacked up quite a bit to get to the filler. Having suffered some
> diff oil leaks past the pinion seal, I replaced the seal and filled the diff
> to what I thought was about right. After I returned the car to level and
> installed the plug, it continued to leak oil past the new pinion seal (I
> thought it was defective) until it reached its proper level and quit.
From "Chris Arneson" <carneson at trihydro.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 21:41:00 -0600
Subject: What year is it?
Healey-veterans!
After a long search I think I've finally found my Healey. It's a BN4 but the
title
was lost years ago and I don't know what year it is. It's in very good shape
and
the price is dirt cheap which makes it perfect! Is there a resource out there
that might have serial number records for me? I'm actually buying from a dealer
(who doesn't know anything about them but can get a clear title for it)
In case someone on the list can help it's BN4L28415 according to the plate
inside the hood. Obviously, if you recognize the number as being stolen I'd
love to know that also. Thanks!
Also:
The car is missing all of the seats. (I don't know why) It has everything else
though. Does anyone out there have a recommendation on which company
to contact for an old set that can be reupholstered? FYI the rest of the
interior
is red. Thanks again!
Chris Arneson
(Wearing a huge grin at the thought of finally owning one!)
carneson@trihydro.com
From JSoderling at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 23:59:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil changes- basic facts for newbies
Gary,
Twenty-three lube points? I can only find 19 grease fittings on my 100-Six.
Propeller shaft U-joints & slip spline (3); swivel axles (4); suspension
fulcrum points (2); steering connections (6); rear spring shackle pins (2);
hand brake (2). What am I missing? Hope it's not serious.
Thanks.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 23:42:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Wander Indiana recommendations
For those that have registered for Conclave, you should be getting a
letter shortly that includes information on the construction going on
around Indy. Briefly, I-465 is the loop around Indy. It is a mess on
the East/NE side. As John stated below, I-65 which runs from the South
side of Indy to the NW corner, is another area to avoid. For folks
comming from the South on I-65, you might consider getting on I-465 and
taking it around on the West side. For those comming in from the East,
consider taking I-70 through Indy to 465 on the West side and taking 465
North to the Holidome (I-465 and SR-421).
Or take to the side roads, you might see them again on the rallye!
MOWOGMAN@aol.com wrote:
>
> If your heading to Conclave, watch out for construction! I just drove from
> Wisconsin to Georgia and back and I think the whole countries interstate
> highway system is under construction! One of the worst areas appears to be
> Indiana. Just about every other overpass on I-65 is being rebuilt with
> massive traffic jams the result. I easily lost 1 1/2 to 2 hours using this
> route through (wander about!) Indiana. Second on my list of places to hate
> is Chattanooga Tenn., what a ridiculous set up, the way that I-24 (doesn't)
> work! I sat for 1 1/2 and went about 1 mile before I could get off,
> detoured though town, ended up on the highway by lookout mountain, and then
> rejoined I-24 after Chat.
>
> My point is check out your route before you head to Conclave, it could save
> you a lot of frustration!
>
> AND, think nothing of leaving the highway, going on some side roads, you'll
> see a lot prettier countryside, and make good time as well.
>
> John
> Oostburg, WI
> '60 BT7
> '60 Mini
> '80 TR7
> '69 AA
> '57 Isetta
> Etc.
--
Bob Haskell
'60 AH BT-7 MkI
'64 Mini Cooper S RHD
'80 MGB LE
bhaskell@iquest.net
SOL Healey (URL http://www.team.net/www/healey) web apprentice
From "Don Gschwind" <DGSCHWIND at prodigy.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 01:08:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Small Electric Cooling Fans
Hi,
My PO had installed an electric fan attached to the "X"brace
forward of the radiator. I don't know the brand, the only
identification on it is "made in Canada" on the motor. I've wired it
to a switch on the IP instead of using a thermal switch (which didn't
work) and fused it separately to a new fuse box under the dash.
DON
BJ8 Pandora
----- Original Message -----
From: <PVANDAL@aol.com>
To: <healey27@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2000 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: Small Electric Cooling Fans
>
> Has anyone done this (electric pushing fans) with a 3000? The cross
members
> seem to interfere with most fans on the market due to the limited
clearance
> requiring a very narrow fan.
From Allen Edwards <allene at ispchannel.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 22:39:29 -0700
Subject: help in looking up part numnber 1B3694
Can anyone verify if a BN1 3rd gear 1B3697 mates with laygear 1B3694? I
have been told that 1B3697 mates with 1B3693 but my laygear is 1B3694
not 1B3693. These numbers seem too close to be of a different series.
Maybe it is the same gear with a bushing installed or something. The
factory parts book we looked at did not list 1B3694. Does anyone on the
list have a parts book that lists 1B3694 and if so please give me the
number of the 3rd gear.
Thanks,
Allen
PS. Will be out of town for couple days but picking up the mail on the
allen.edwards@intel.com address.
AE
From "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind at prodigy.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 02:15:05 -0400
Subject: Blue Smoke
Hi, Listers.
Please give me a little advice. My car, BJ8, has been down
since Oct 99 for miscellaneous repairs. I've not touched the engine,
drivetrain, or brakes. When I was ready to restart it this month, I
noted the brake fluid was down about 1/2 - 3/4 inch, so I refilled it.
I pulled the plugs for inspection, everything was ok, so I cranked it
a few times to get oil pressure, still all ok. I started it in the
garage, no blue smoke, everything still ok. About two weeks later I
fired it up to take a short drive. The brake pedal was low, and it
took one pump to get it "normal". No smoke in the garage, but once on
the road it was horrendous! I thought I was dusting for Gypsy Moths or
something. I just drove it about 1/2 mile and brought it back. It has
not been a smoker before I put it away, and oil consumption was about
700-800 miles per quart. My first suspicion is the brake booster
leaking fluid into the vacuum chamber as there are no visible leaks at
the wheels or elsewhere to account for the fluid loss. Question: How
do I diagnose this better?
If I disconnect the vacuum line to the booster from the manifold
and plug the fitting then start the engine and I see no smoke, does
this prove it's the booster? Am I apt to do any harm to anything else?
Would a compression check be in order before I drive it? I had it done
about 3000 miles ago and everthing checked about 150-160 when warm,
and all were nearly the same. Should I peak into the oil filler with
the engine running to see if there is excessive oil leakage at the
rocker arms?
What else should I do to inspect and correct the problem?
Thanks all of you experts, Pandora and I need your advice.
DON
BJ8 Pandora
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 15:22:05 +0800
Subject: Re: Oil changes- basic facts for newbies $ oldies
Gary
I thought you were going to tell us of three points from which to drain the
oil from the engine. Thought I was going to learn something new.
Regards
John Rowe
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2000 11:54 PM
Subject: Oil changes- basic facts for newbies
In a message dated 7/11/00 4:51:50 AM, jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au writes:
<< Gary
Perhaps you could inform us all of the three points from which to drain the
oil.
Haven't done that yet. Still to put the oil in the engine.
TIA
Regards
John Rowe >>
I'm sure this isn't new to 95 percent of you, but for any new owners of
six-cylinder cars (the rest of you can go back to discussing Round-table
Pizza service):
Going from front to back-
engine oil is drained from a plug on the rear corner of the sump (takes a
very big wrench). When closing this up, you need a new compression washer
to
prevent leakage.
Transmission oil is drained from a notched plug in the center of the
transmission case; note that there is a filter screen resting in the plug
(there should be a magnet in there as well). This plug takes a special
wrench, though a very large channel-lock wrench can be used in a pinch. This
plug should have a large rubber o-ring to prevent leakage.
Overdrive oil is drained from a plug in the center of the overdrive cars.
This plug also takes a special tool (looks like a simple piece of bar stock)
that was included in the original tool set, which also fits the inspection
plug and drain plug in the differential. A large socket driver will also
work. This plug has no seal, as such, so a little teflon tape around the
threads might be a good idea.
General consensus on oil to use is 20-50w oil (regular, not synthetic) in
the
engine; about 6.5 quarts. In the transmission and overdrive (they share the
same oil supply) 30 weight is recommended and many people prefer to use
non-detergent to avoid having the oil carry junk in suspension. The
tranny/o'drive takes about 3.5 quarts of oil.
For typical hobby Healeys, driven fewer than 3,000 miles a year, an oil
change once a year is recommended, to include changing the filter. While
the
oil is being changed, you can lube the 23 lube points and check the
tightness
of the bolts on your shock absorbers and rear spring U-bolts.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 05:56:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Daimler SP250
In a message dated 7/11/00 5:40:39 PM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<<It also has the absolutely greatest sound of any auto I know of.>>
And you can always drop in a Chevy small-block for more power!
<<Parts are very available - except for a few (which I probably have).>>
What Dick doesn't have, one of my friends probably does. He's a Daimler
owner, restorer, and parts supplier and he always has a few parts cars.
As to butt-ugly, I'd have to say it's an acquired taste, helped in no
small part by the car's performance.
"Delightful Daimlering"
Rick
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 07:06:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave
We will be there too. Makes my 18th out of the last 20!
Rudy Streng
President AHCA
1986 - 1989
And we will join Jim Werner in Louisville area and also crash Ed's Just Brits
Penthouse party.
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 07:19:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave
Glad to see there will be so many list-members at Conclave. Wish I brought
that hat--or whatever it was--that was going round some time back.
Michael
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 16:01:55 +0800
Subject: Re: Daimler SP250
Reid
Don't be so hard on the Interceptor. Mine runs as cool as - in 40degree C
Western Australian summers. Has a/c for the navigator.
The engine and gearbox are Chrysler - should be no problem in the states,
suspension etc is Jaguar, electrics are Lucas, we all should be familiar
with them and the rest is Jensen. Handmade and hand repaired. Only the glass
is in short supply.
Best bang for my bucks after th BT7 and Audi quattro.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in resto
Jensen Interceptor III
Audi quattro turbo coupe
Volvo 122S rally
----- Original Message -----
From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
To: Reid Trummel <AHCUSA@go.com>; austin healey list
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 3:03 AM
Subject: Re: Daimler SP250
>
> Reid
>
> The SP250 has a TR3B frame - sort of; Girling Disc Brakes on all four
wheels; a fibreglass body (Not Rust Ever); all of the highest quality period
electrics and accesories; a top (Hood) that is far superior to that of a BJ8
Series 2; a full Connolly leather interior with genuine Wilton carpeting;
Smith's best gauges; a slightly modified TR-3B tranny with slightly better
ratios; and the crowning touch:
>
> A 2 1/2 litre hemi-head, cross flow Induction manifold, twin H8,iron
block, aluminum head that is so torquey you can Start in 4th and - without
any bogging - pull up to 120 mph.
>
> It also has the absolutely greatest sound of any auto I know of.
>
> It can do a high 16's 1/4 mile.
>
> Parts are very available - except for a few (which I probably have).
>
> Most of them (out of 2200) had no OD but one can easily be fitted as can a
BW automatic.
>
> I have a "tits" Hardtop if you buy it and want it and need it. (Or anyone
else ) - and an 95 pt spare Grille.
>
> The rear-end is a very weak point - and very dear, if you can find one
(because of the rear disc-brakes). Steering stinks - the box is straight
Healey only upside down - it takes Arnold Schwartzenegger to park it.
>
> Send me photos or call me and I'll be glad to consult with you by long
distance. BTW, where is it located and who owns it?
>
> DickB
>
>
>
> ---- you wrote:
> > Hi Dick,
> >
> > Hey, I came across a 1959 Daimler for sale, and since you owned one up
until recently, I thought I'd ask your general thoughts on it.
> >
> > I remember from your posts to the Healeys list that you loved it, but
give it to me straight: Is this another Jensen Interceptor (that is,
expensive, chronically screwed up electrics, overheats and even NASA can't
figure out how to make it run cool, parts are impossible to find which is
fine since if you found any they'd all be a million dollars anyway, etc.;
can you tell that I used to own a Jensen Interceptor?).
> >
> > The SP250s had a Ford V8, right? Was overdrive an option, or did they
all have it?
> >
> > Anyway, any advice or warnings would be much appreciated. Thanks.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Reid
> >
> >
> > ___________________________________________________
> > GO Network Mail
> > Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com
> >
> >
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
>
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 07:27:52 EDT
Subject: Re: What year is it?
In a message dated 7/12/00 12:09:36 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
carneson@trihydro.com writes:
BN4L28415
Hi Chris,
I do the AHCA Registry for the BN4 and BN6. I looked up the above number in
my files, but never had it listed. Your car must be one of the very original
ones as I only have # 26352 and # 28112 before yours and # 28453 as the next
one. Sorry I can't help more. When you have a minute, please send me your
name, address, etc., for the records. Thanks,
Rudy Streng
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 07:35:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave
I'll be wearing mine, but probably not during meals. Otherwise all you guys
would look alike.
Rudy in NC
From "jim t.p. ryan" <ryan at jimryan.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 04:50:01 -0700
Subject: Number for registration
Somebody out there keeps track of these things so I thought I would pass mine
along...
I have a Red/Black 1964 BJ7 #BJ7L25155.
Bought from original owner (don't remember name) in 1974.
Jim Ryan
27 Kasey Drive
Milford, NH 03055
Any info you can pass back would be great.
___________________________________________________________________________
Visit http://www.visto.com/info, your free web-based communications center.
Visto.com. Life on the Dot.
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 08:29:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Daimler SP250
Does Dick really look like a Shar-Peis?
>Dick--
>
>Shar-Peis have no doubt won Best of Show at AKC events but they are still
>Butt-ugly.....
>
>Michael
From Rikrock at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 09:00:19 EDT
Subject: Valley Forge?
Hello,
Is there some sort of club event in Valley Forge this year? Details, please!
Thanks!
Rich Rock
From "terry s." <tvett68 at hotmail.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 06:13:48 PDT
Subject: Re: Conclave
Another "Cheesehead" heading to Conclave, but not until late Sun. or early
Mon.: remember Vintage Races at Road America that same week-end,
have to try and do it all! Got to watch real Healeys on the track-beautiful
and fast. Our BN7 is in final stage of some serious body restortation and
may be ready(fingers crossed). If not it will be the trusty,but boring
Durango. Are any Wisconsites planning a caravan,and if so when and where are
all leaving from?
Terry Singer,Madison
>From: Awgertoo@aol.com
>Reply-To: Awgertoo@aol.com
>To: CAWS52803@aol.com
>CC: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Conclave
>Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 07:19:48 EDT
>
>Glad to see there will be so many list-members at Conclave. Wish I brought
>that hat--or whatever it was--that was going round some time back.
>
>Michael
________________________________________________________________________
From ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit at juno.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 09:32:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Blue Smoke
What you suspect is just about 99% guarenteed.....IF you are loosing
brake fluid:
A. you would see it at the wheels (slave or caliper)
B you would see at on your heels (BMC)
C your engine would be buring it.
As far away as I am I'll bet C. That said you could take input and
output to booster and plumb them together by passing the booster and see
if that doesn't stop the "lost fluid" problem....keeping in mind you'll
have to stand on your brakes a bit more to keep car under control.....but
then that's what the rest of us have been doing all along ;<) If you
suspect its the servo please contact me off list for a couple of NON
LOCKHEED solutions.
R Kirk
>you wrote
On Wed, 12 Jul 2000 02:15:05 -0400 "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind@prodigy.net>
writes:
>
> Hi, Listers.
> Please give me a little advice. My car, BJ8, has been down
> since Oct 99 for miscellaneous repairs. I've not touched the engine,
> drivetrain, or brakes. When I was ready to restart it this month, I
> noted the brake fluid was down about 1/2 - 3/4 inch, so I refilled
> it.
> I pulled the plugs for inspection, everything was ok, so I cranked
> it
> a few times to get oil pressure, still all ok. I started it in the
> garage, no blue smoke, everything still ok. About two weeks later I
> fired it up to take a short drive. The brake pedal was low, and it
> took one pump to get it "normal". No smoke in the garage, but once
> on
> the road it was horrendous! I thought I was dusting for Gypsy Moths
> or
> something. I just drove it about 1/2 mile and brought it back. It
> has
> not been a smoker before I put it away, and oil consumption was
> about
> 700-800 miles per quart. My first suspicion is the brake booster
> leaking fluid into the vacuum chamber as there are no visible leaks
> at
> the wheels or elsewhere to account for the fluid loss. Question: How
> do I diagnose this better?
> If I disconnect the vacuum line to the booster from the manifold
> and plug the fitting then start the engine and I see no smoke, does
> this prove it's the booster? Am I apt to do any harm to anything
> else?
> Would a compression check be in order before I drive it? I had it
> done
> about 3000 miles ago and everthing checked about 150-160 when warm,
> and all were nearly the same. Should I peak into the oil filler with
> the engine running to see if there is excessive oil leakage at the
> rocker arms?
> What else should I do to inspect and correct the problem?
> Thanks all of you experts, Pandora and I need your advice.
> DON
> BJ8 Pandora
>
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 09:46:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Small Electric Cooling Fans
In a message dated 7/12/2000 00:15:22 Central Daylight Time,
DGSCHWIND@prodigy.net writes:
<< My PO had installed an electric fan attached to the "X"brace
forward of the radiator. >>
For the electric fan to do any good it should be mounted to the radiator face.
How about putting a good Texas Kooler on? They work!
Don
NTAHC
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 10:13:42 -0400
Subject: Re: help in looking up part numnber 1B3694
Allen Edwards wrote:
> Can anyone verify if a BN1 3rd gear 1B3697 mates with laygear 1B3694? I
> have been told that 1B3697 mates with 1B3693 but my laygear is 1B3694
> not 1B3693. These numbers seem too close to be of a different series.
> Maybe it is the same gear with a bushing installed or something. The
> factory parts book we looked at did not list 1B3694. Does anyone on the
> list have a parts book that lists 1B3694 and if so please give me the
> number of the 3rd gear.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Allen
>
> PS. Will be out of town for couple days but picking up the mail on the
> allen.edwards@intel.com address.
>
> AE
Hi Allen,
I have 3 new 1B3693 laygears in stock and all are stamped with that number.
Is your laygear actually stamped 1B3694?
If it is I would recommend that we do a dimentional comparison of the gear
that mates with the one that you have broken.
Although I suggested to Dave Porter that that laygear could be just the
1B3693 one with bushes installed, upon reflection, I doubt that the outside
would be stamped with the different number if that was the case.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From JustBrits at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 10:16:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Stripping engine compartments
In a message dated 07/11/2000 8:49:46 PM Central Daylight Time,
magicare@home.com writes:
<< remove the blower and heater and vent ducts. >>
Now THAT is your basic UNDERSTATEMENT, Mike!!!!!! <G>
Cheers..............
Ed
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 10:21:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Valley Forge?
Hi Rich,
I believe the Sport & Touring Club has that event. Here is their website
address. Always a great meet, not to be missed.
http://www.austin-healey-stc.org
Rudy Streng
From ccruz at tribune.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 09:25:00 -0500
Subject: Insulation material
>> Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 21:57:53 -0400 (EDT)
>> From: dickb@cheerful.com
>> Subject: Re: Insulation material
>> Your ON Bill
>> I guess you Left Coasters are Too Upscale. Here in Minnesota the
>> locals smoke fish, squirrels, moose, deer - maybe even frogs.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Fish, squirrels and frogs - maybe, but how in the world do you wrap a
moose or deer with those little cigarette papers? ;-0
Just having fun,
Carlos Cruz
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 10:42:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Stripping engine compartments
JustBrits@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 07/11/2000 8:49:46 PM Central Daylight Time,
> magicare@home.com writes:
>
> << remove the blower and heater and vent ducts. >>
>
> Now THAT is your basic UNDERSTATEMENT, Mike!!!!!! <G>
>
> Cheers..............
>
> Ed
That is the job that we give to the new "I've done it all, Ex Rolls
Royce" type employees.
Tends to keep them quiet for a few days;-).
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From JustBrits at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 10:47:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Stripping engine compartments
In a message dated 07/12/2000 9:41:53 AM Central Daylight Time,
magicare@home.com writes:
<< Tends to keep them quiet for a few days >>
LOL, Mike, LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ed
From Allen Edwards <allene at ispchannel.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 08:07:15 -0700
Subject: Re: help in looking up part numnber 1B3694
I have double checked but went and checked again and the last digit is
absolutely a 4.
Allen
Michael Salter wrote:
>
> Allen Edwards wrote:
>
> > Can anyone verify if a BN1 3rd gear 1B3697 mates with laygear 1B3694? I
> > have been told that 1B3697 mates with 1B3693 but my laygear is 1B3694
> > not 1B3693. These numbers seem too close to be of a different series.
> > Maybe it is the same gear with a bushing installed or something. The
> > factory parts book we looked at did not list 1B3694. Does anyone on the
> > list have a parts book that lists 1B3694 and if so please give me the
> > number of the 3rd gear.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Allen
> >
> > PS. Will be out of town for couple days but picking up the mail on the
> > allen.edwards@intel.com address.
> >
> > AE
>
> Hi Allen,
> I have 3 new 1B3693 laygears in stock and all are stamped with that number.
> Is your laygear actually stamped 1B3694?
> If it is I would recommend that we do a dimentional comparison of the gear
> that mates with the one that you have broken.
> Although I suggested to Dave Porter that that laygear could be just the
> 1B3693 one with bushes installed, upon reflection, I doubt that the outside
> would be stamped with the different number if that was the case.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 11:20:05 -0400
Subject: King pins, & Shackles
In my Haynes manual, the diagram of the front suspension has lubrication
nipples labelled as
oil nipples. Surely these are for grease? There is a lot of confusion
generated by the use of different terms, sometimes within the same book,
and this seems like an obvious one, but reassure me.
Also, had they dispensed with lube points at the rear leaf spring shackles
on the later BJ 8s,
because I can't see any!
Stephen
From "Chris Arneson" <carneson at trihydro.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 09:41:07 -0600
Subject: Re: What year is it?
Thank you all for your replies and help. Of course the answer was not the one
I wanted to hear. I was originally told that the car was a 1960 AH 100 which
I knew it couldn't be. I'm now assuming it's a late 1956 that had/has the
2-port
head. (I'll know which head it has today)
I've read that there were many "improvements" between the Longbridge and
Abingdon models. Other than the head I don't know specifics. How important
are these improvements and can they be retrofitted?. Concours will never be
a goal for me. Is this a model I should stay away from or does a change in
head negate the major differences?
Chris
JSoderling@aol.com wrote:
> Chris,
> My 100-Six is #49069 and is a 6-port and was manufactured late
> (November/December) 1957, so yours must be early 1957 or possible very late
> 1956. BN4 production actually started late 1956.
> John
> 57 100-Six Erika the Red
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 12:01:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Stripping engine compartments
In a message dated 7/11/00 6:42:32 PM, magicare@home.com writes:
<< IMHO you would be very wise to tread very carefully if you are intending to
remove the blower and heater and vent ducts. We ahve found these very hard to
refit well
Just a note of caution from one who has been there (many times). >>
Mike's right (as he generally is) about the difficulty of getting them
re-fitted. However, it's just as hard trying to get the relay box in and out
with the fresh air duct in as it is to get the air duct in, and with the air
duct in, you can't effectively repaint a lot of what you can see in the
engine compartment.
The trick on putting the fresh air duct in is to push it down into the space
between the inner and outer fender so that it forms a loop. That makes it
much easier to get the inner end back onto the opening into the foot well.
It isn't nearly as hard to fit the duct if you do it while the carbs and
manifolds are out.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 18:14:33 +0200
Subject: RE: paint code
because originality is everything (wink!)
-----Original Message-----
From: Lee S. Mairs [mailto:lmairs@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2000 11:07 AM
To: austin healey list
Subject: Re: paint code
Dick voices something that I've been afraid to ask. I can understand a few
of the radical fringe that are re-building cars for concours getting all
spun up about the "perfect original paint match". As a new Healey owner,
I've been following this thread thinking that I must be missing something.
If it isn't concours, why does anyone care what colors are used (aside from
purples, metallics etc.)?
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
>If it were ME - and I wanted to paint my LBC Colorado Red, I would start
with Guards Red (Porsche) and Flash Red (Chrysler Corp)
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 12:12:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil changes- basic facts for newbies
In a message dated 7/11/00 6:44:00 PM, byers@cconnect.net writes:
<< Gary, I think the description of the drain plugs is slightly backward >>
Steve correctly corrects my mistake: I did reverse the two drain plugs (and,
boy, was it tough getting that tranny plug screwed into the overdrive case!).
On the remainder, he adds a number of good points to the basic stuff I wrote.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 12:14:22 -0400
Subject: 3.50 Gear Sets - Status
Hello gang. I thought I would send along a status of our effort to produce
the 3.5 ratio gear sets for our Big Healeys. To date, we have commitments
for 35 sets - that's pretty good progress ! This list has been the only
"advertising" medium used so far. I'm optimistic that when the word is
opened up to a greater population we'll get much more interest. Reid has
prepared a blurb for the next issue of AUSTIN HEALEY MAGAZINE. Thank you
Reid.
A special thanks also to Bob Yule of Canada, who has coordinated
commitments for 10 sets.
Here is the list I have so far. Please correct me if any of this is wrong:
Commitments:
2 Mike Lempert
1 Jim Smith
1 Robert Barback
1 Dr. Carl Rubino
2 John Vrugtman
1 Jack Jakobsen
1 Ray Juncal
2 Bob McElwee
1 Roland Wilhelmy
1 Mark Fawcett
1 Fred Scheuble
1 Colin O'Brien
2 Skip Saunders
1 John Loftus
1 Reid Trummel
1 Marshall Dixon
1 Alfred Haymond
1 Jim Cox
1 Bill Wycoff
1 Bob Spidell
10 Bob Yule
1 Pete Pollock
Now to summarize the information we've learned so far...
The new sets, ring and pinion gears, will be a 12/42 pin configuration -
providing a 3.5 ratio. The original sets were 11/39, providing a 3.54
ratio.
The new gears will need to be installed in your existing housings. Much
care needs to be given to ensure proper alignment of the teeth. Improper
alignment would result in increased noise and wear. I hope to be able to
include instructions with the gears.
Speedometers will need to be recalibrated due to the new rear end ratio. -
Not that many are accurate anyway - Who knows, maybe some will be
corrected by the change.
These units will fit all Big Healeys with the exception of the early BN1s
with the spiral bevel gears.
Once I have the necessary 100 set commitment, I'll need to go into
contract. At that point I'll need to put up 50%, so I'll require that of
all participants as well. Final payment will be required prior to shipment.
Once I have entered into contract, the manufacturer will produce a
prototype from the measurements already taken. Then they will install it in
a housing for fit and performance testing. I will need to provide them with
the complete rear units for the testing. I may need some assistance from
you folks if it's necessary to test in more than one rear end configuration,
i.e. 100 & 3000.
I think I covered it all. I'll keep you informed of progress.
Regards,
Mike Lempert
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 12:22:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil changes- basic facts for newbies
In a message dated 7/11/00 8:59:47 PM, JSoderling writes:
<< Gary,
Twenty-three lube points? I can only find 19 grease fittings >>
I lost count at 17 and it seemed like there were at least six more. I just
keep on filling them until I run out of grease -- I may have filled some of
them two or three times.
Cheers
Gary
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 12:25:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Stripping engine compartments
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 7/11/00 6:42:32 PM, magicare@home.com writes:
>
> << IMHO you would be very wise to tread very carefully if you are intending to
> remove the blower and heater and vent ducts. We ahve found these very hard to
> refit well
> Just a note of caution from one who has been there (many times). >>
>
> Mike's right (as he generally is) about the difficulty of getting them
> re-fitted. However, it's just as hard trying to get the relay box in and out
> with the fresh air duct in as it is to get the air duct in, and with the air
> duct in, you can't effectively repaint a lot of what you can see in the
> engine compartment.
>
> The trick on putting the fresh air duct in is to push it down into the space
> between the inner and outer fender so that it forms a loop. That makes it
> much easier to get the inner end back onto the opening into the foot well.
> It isn't nearly as hard to fit the duct if you do it while the carbs and
> manifolds are out.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
Gary,
Oh great one of much knowledge ;-)
As a point of interest how did they do it in the factory? You cannot reach all
the
fender to shroud screws with the ducting in place and you cannot quickly install
the ducting with the fenders and shroud in place.
I suspect that the ducts were all fitted then the shroud and fenders were
installed as a unit....does this make sense?
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 09:28:58 -0700
Subject: OD drain plug wrench
Does anyone have a source for a wrench that fits the notched OD drain
plug (2nd type)?
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 10:45:00 -0500
Subject: Re: OD drain plug wrench
John
Good point, I'm interested as well.
Ed
John Lofts wrote:
>
> Does anyone have a source for a wrench that fits the notched OD drain
> plug (2nd type)?
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 12:48:49 -0400
Subject: Re: OD drain plug wrench
That plug is designed to be "chiseled off". Take an old chisel and grind
down the edge so that it is dull as it can possibly be. Insert the chisel
in the notch and gently tap the plug in the appropriate direction.
Works like a charm!
I use the same technique to loosen lock nuts on marine stuffing boxes, some
of which have been frozen in place for ten years or more. It hasn't failed
yet.
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
-----Original Message-----
From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 12:30 PM
Subject: OD drain plug wrench
>
>Does anyone have a source for a wrench that fits the notched OD drain
>plug (2nd type)?
From ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit at juno.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 12:48:39 -0400
Subject: tri methyl benzine
Anybody have a source for tri methyl benzine?
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 13:51:17 -0400
Subject: Re: tri methyl benzine
No, but I have a bagful of di lythium crystals.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <JeepsterOnline@egroups.com>; <WillysTech@egroups.com>
Sent: July 12, 2000 12:48 PM
Subject: tri methyl benzine
>
> Anybody have a source for tri methyl benzine?
>
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 10:36:44 -0700
Subject: Memorabilia....
Ok all you memorabiliafiles, A&W has come out with a collection of four
"Cruisin" CDs for the summer named you guessed it Cruisin'1 - Cruisin'4.
Cruisin'2 has a lone Healey on the jewel case liner as well as the CD label
itself. They are selling here in Vancouver B.C. Canada for the outrageous
price of $4.99, that would be about .35 U.S.F. ;~) unless of course they are
only available in Canada eh...The cars on the other cases are, if anyone
cares, volks beatle convert, met and a pink caddy....Neil
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 13:40:49 EDT
Subject: Re: What year is it?
In a message dated 7/12/00 8:12:54 AM, carneson@trihydro.com writes:
<<
I've read that there were many "improvements" between the Longbridge and
Abingdon models. Other than the head I don't know specifics. How important
are these improvements and can they be retrofitted?. Concours will never be
a goal for me. Is this a model I should stay away from or does a change in
head negate the major differences? >>
The following is an infomercial:
The transition from the first series BN4s to the second series BN4s (not
quite accurately referred to as "Longbridge BN4s" and "Abingdon BN4s") was
interesting and we did quite a bit of research to assemble the facts when we
wrote the Austin-Healey Restoration Guide. (The reason why it isn't accurate
to refer to first-series BN4s as "Longbridge BN4s" is that BMC actually
finished out the production run of these cars, with their gallery-head engine
and more elaborate interior, at Abingdon after production was moved from
Longbridge. Then the new BN6s were produced by themselves for about six
months before the second-series BN4s, which shared engines and most interior
details with the BN6s, were put back into production and produced along with
the BN6s through the rest of 100-6 production. )
You can read all about it in the Restoration Guide, which can be ordered from
Amazon.com, Motorbooks, AHCUSA, or from British Car Book Shop. We've just
ordered a new stock of copies to be autographed, so if you missed out on the
first offering of autographed first editions and have a craving for Healey
information personally autographed by Anderson and Moment, you can call us
at 800-520-8292. (Canada 650-949-9680).
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 14:02:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Stripping engine compartments
In a message dated 7/12/00 8:24:48 AM, magicare@home.com writes:
<< As a point of interest how did they do it in the factory? You cannot reach
all the
fender to shroud screws with the ducting in place and you cannot quickly
install
the ducting with the fenders and shroud in place.
I suspect that the ducts were all fitted then the shroud and fenders were
installed as a unit....does this make sense? >>
Unfortunately, that theory doesn't hold water -- pictures of the Jensen paint
shop show that the cars were painted for the first and only time with the
fenders on. However, it isn't nearly as difficult to fit the ducts if the
engine isn't installed (as someone noted, you just climb in the engine
compartment and work there). When the cars arrived at Longbridge or
Abingdon, they had all of their wiring, duct work, and interior fittings
installed. All that happened at Abingdon was that the engine/trannies were
installed, radiators fitted, piping hooked up, wheels fitted and petrol
filled. Start her up, and test drive her all the way to the parking lot.
Cheers
Gary
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 14:05:15 -0400
Subject: Pipe dreaming? (paint and interior)
Alright guys, help set me straight.
I am thinking of having the exterior body's paint stripped, minor
bodywork (ie. dings & minor pushed panels), both hoods stripped, and strip
out the interior and repaint and have an interior done in the car (59
BT7). Interior would consist of rugs and new upholstery.
This car will never be a concourse car, no painting under the hood
other than the hood itself, and I will take all the shiny work off the car
and put back on when done, and I will strip the interior out of the car.
I'm thinking $5K should do it. Am I being realistic in putting away
that amount noting that unforeseen things could crop up?
Mike B
59 BT7
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 14:14:41 EDT
Subject: Re: What year is it?
Chris, I have a Longbridge BN4 with the "undesirable head" and my advice is
to fix it and drive it as it is. They are still fun to drive, have tons of
torque, lots of get up and go and look just as good as the rest of the
Healeys. If you are going vintage racing, then you'll want to hop it up,
otherwise have fun. Now if you must have the quickest Big Healey in town, I
got a BJ8 engine for sale.......Scott
Scott McPherson
1957 BN4L 2 port head (lack of horsepower made up for in driving skill)
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 11:16:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 3.50 Gear Sets - Status
Mike,
Can you please repost the price?
Thanks
Dean
--- Michael Lempert <mdlempert@worldnet.att.net>
wrote:
>
> Hello gang. I thought I would send along a status
> of our effort to produce
> the 3.5 ratio gear sets for our Big Healeys. To
> date, we have commitments
> for 35 sets - that's pretty good progress ! This
> list has been the only
> "advertising" medium used so far. I'm optimistic
> that when the word is
> opened up to a greater population we'll get much
> more interest. Reid has
> prepared a blurb for the next issue of AUSTIN HEALEY
> MAGAZINE. Thank you
> Reid.
>
> A special thanks also to Bob Yule of Canada, who
> has coordinated
> commitments for 10 sets.
>
> Here is the list I have so far. Please correct me
> if any of this is wrong:
>
> Commitments:
> 2 Mike Lempert
> 1 Jim Smith
> 1 Robert Barback
> 1 Dr. Carl Rubino
> 2 John Vrugtman
> 1 Jack Jakobsen
> 1 Ray Juncal
> 2 Bob McElwee
> 1 Roland Wilhelmy
> 1 Mark Fawcett
> 1 Fred Scheuble
> 1 Colin O'Brien
> 2 Skip Saunders
> 1 John Loftus
> 1 Reid Trummel
> 1 Marshall Dixon
> 1 Alfred Haymond
> 1 Jim Cox
> 1 Bill Wycoff
> 1 Bob Spidell
> 10 Bob Yule
> 1 Pete Pollock
>
> Now to summarize the information we've learned so
> far...
>
> The new sets, ring and pinion gears, will be a
> 12/42 pin configuration -
> providing a 3.5 ratio. The original sets were
> 11/39, providing a 3.54
> ratio.
>
> The new gears will need to be installed in your
> existing housings. Much
> care needs to be given to ensure proper alignment of
> the teeth. Improper
> alignment would result in increased noise and wear.
> I hope to be able to
> include instructions with the gears.
>
> Speedometers will need to be recalibrated due to the
> new rear end ratio. -
> Not that many are accurate anyway - Who knows,
> maybe some will be
> corrected by the change.
>
> These units will fit all Big Healeys with the
> exception of the early BN1s
> with the spiral bevel gears.
>
> Once I have the necessary 100 set commitment, I'll
> need to go into
> contract. At that point I'll need to put up 50%,
> so I'll require that of
> all participants as well. Final payment will be
> required prior to shipment.
>
> Once I have entered into contract, the manufacturer
> will produce a
> prototype from the measurements already taken. Then
> they will install it in
> a housing for fit and performance testing. I will
> need to provide them with
> the complete rear units for the testing. I may need
> some assistance from
> you folks if it's necessary to test in more than one
> rear end configuration,
> i.e. 100 & 3000.
>
> I think I covered it all. I'll keep you informed of
> progress.
>
> Regards,
> Mike Lempert
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Get Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 11:30:01 -0700
Subject: Re: OD drain plug wrench
Hi Lee,
I used the same technique last time except used a punch instead of a
dull chisel. Maybe because the PO had used some sealant on the treads,
it was difficult to get off without beating up the notches. The plug
material is pretty soft.
I'll probably make up a wrench for the next time around unless someone
has them at a reasonable price.
Regards,
John
"Lee S. Mairs" wrote:
>
> That plug is designed to be "chiseled off". Take an old chisel and grind
> down the edge so that it is dull as it can possibly be. Insert the chisel
> in the notch and gently tap the plug in the appropriate direction.
> Works like a charm!
> I use the same technique to loosen lock nuts on marine stuffing boxes, some
> of which have been frozen in place for ten years or more. It hasn't failed
> yet.
> Lee
> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
> To: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 12:30 PM
> Subject: OD drain plug wrench
>
> >
> >Does anyone have a source for a wrench that fits the notched OD drain
> >plug (2nd type)?
From "Mike Barron" <jmikebarron at hotmail.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 18:54:02 GMT
Subject: Re: Pipe dreaming? (paint and interior)
>From the tone of your post, it appears that you are a prime candidate for
"Shipwrights Disease". You know, the one where you decide to clean the
glass on the hallway lamp on the yacht, and while doing it, you note that
the fixture is cracked, so you replace it, but while you are replacing it,
you notice that the wireing is looking really old, so you replace it, and
while replacing it, you figure that as long as you are working electrics,
you may as well upgrade the fuse box, and what the hell, as long as you are
upgrading, you can get that new fridge that uses more power,
and.....................
Mike Barron
Triumph owner, and Healey luster.
>From: M Brouillette <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
>Reply-To: M Brouillette <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Pipe dreaming? (paint and interior)
>Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 14:05:15 -0400
>
> Alright guys, help set me straight.
>
> I am thinking of having the exterior body's paint stripped, minor
>bodywork (ie. dings & minor pushed panels), both hoods stripped, and strip
>out the interior and repaint and have an interior done in the car (59
>BT7). Interior would consist of rugs and new upholstery.
>
> This car will never be a concourse car, no painting under the hood
>other than the hood itself, and I will take all the shiny work off the car
>and put back on when done, and I will strip the interior out of the car.
>
> I'm thinking $5K should do it. Am I being realistic in putting away
>that amount noting that unforeseen things could crop up?
>
>Mike B
>59 BT7
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 14:56:30 -0400
Subject: Re: 3.50 Gear Sets - Status
As an amendment to my recent 3.50 gear status...
I have had a few listers ask about price. Since I neglected to include it
in the status, here it is again: $220 per set plus shipping. I'm trying
to arrange with the gear people to ship direct to you guys in order to lower
costs and provide the best packaging. I'm hoping to keep the shipping and
handling to no more than $15. Out of country orders may be more.
The number of commitments has gone up already. Now we're at 39 ! It seems
every time the subject is posted a few more jump on board. I also omitted
two people by mistake. A few more are on the fence.
If anyone out there has experience with installing these units, would you
please give the group a short story on how it's done ? Some folks appear to
be concerned with the level of complexity. I only have experience taking
one apart - I think I'll have someone else put mine back in.
The new updated list of participants is:
2 Mike Lempert
1 Jim Smith
1 Robert Barback
1 Dr. Carl Rubino
2 John Vrugtman
1 Jack Jakobsen
1 Ray Juncal
2 Bob McElwee
1 John Heffron
1 Roland Wilhelmy
2 Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
1 Mark Fawcett
1 Fred Scheuble
1 Colin O'Brien
2 Skip Saunders
1 John Loftus
1 Reid Trummel
1 Marshall Dixon
1 Alfred Haymond
1 Jim Cox
1 Bill Wycoff
1 Bob Spidell
10 Bob Yule
1 Pete Pollock
1 Dave Bowers
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 15:09:08 -0400
Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Set
>
For anyone who just can't wait I have one good set.
Contact me off list if you are interested.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 15:45:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil changes- basic facts for newbies
Hi, John --
I have a hard time getting the car jacked up high enough to get 4 jackstands
under it without a lot of effort. And the BJ8 rear seats have to be removed
from underneath anyway.
The breather tube you found, I believe, is the vent for the rear axle
housing. I know the "cap" can be turned, but I didn't know it could be
removed (I was afraid to pull on it hard enough perhaps to break it). If
you filled it that way, wouldn't you still have to check the level by
pulling the plug?
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
To: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
Cc: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, July 11, 2000 11:32 PM
Subject: Re: Oil changes- basic facts for newbies
>Hi Steve,
>
>I recently put the BJ7 up on jackstands to check and fill the diff. so
>that keeps everything level. Then I removed the right rear seat pan and
>attached a short piece of clear tubing to the oil bottle spout to make
>it easier to get to the filler opening. Not too difficult but I noticed
>there is a breather tube with a pull off cap on the top of the diff.
>housing that looks ideal for the filling operation. I'll try that the
>next time...hehe.. maybe when the new 3.5 rearend arrives.....
>
>Cheers,
>John
>
>
>
>Steve Byers wrote:
>
>>
>> Filling the diff is difficult. It's supposed to be filled until the
level
>> is even with the bottom of the filler hole, but I have to have the rear
of
>> the car jacked up quite a bit to get to the filler. Having suffered some
>> diff oil leaks past the pinion seal, I replaced the seal and filled the
diff
>> to what I thought was about right. After I returned the car to level and
>> installed the plug, it continued to leak oil past the new pinion seal (I
>> thought it was defective) until it reached its proper level and quit.
>
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 21:47:11 +0200
Subject: RE: Pipe dreaming? (paint and interior)
you said it Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Barron [mailto:jmikebarron@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 2:54 PM
To: mbrouill@ix.netcom.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Pipe dreaming? (paint and interior)
>From the tone of your post, it appears that you are a prime candidate for
"Shipwrights Disease". You know, the one where you decide to clean the
glass on the hallway lamp on the yacht, and while doing it, you note that
the fixture is cracked, so you replace it, but while you are replacing it,
you notice that the wireing is looking really old, so you replace it, and
while replacing it, you figure that as long as you are working electrics,
you may as well upgrade the fuse box, and what the hell, as long as you are
upgrading, you can get that new fridge that uses more power,
and.....................
Mike Barron
Triumph owner, and Healey luster.
>From: M Brouillette <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
>Reply-To: M Brouillette <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Pipe dreaming? (paint and interior)
>Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 14:05:15 -0400
>
> Alright guys, help set me straight.
>
> I am thinking of having the exterior body's paint stripped, minor
>bodywork (ie. dings & minor pushed panels), both hoods stripped, and strip
>out the interior and repaint and have an interior done in the car (59
>BT7). Interior would consist of rugs and new upholstery.
>
> This car will never be a concourse car, no painting under the hood
>other than the hood itself, and I will take all the shiny work off the car
>and put back on when done, and I will strip the interior out of the car.
>
> I'm thinking $5K should do it. Am I being realistic in putting away
>that amount noting that unforeseen things could crop up?
>
>Mike B
>59 BT7
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 16:00:03 EDT
Subject: Re: 3.50 Gear Sets - Status
Mike--
As I told you I am curious to know what the installation looks like. Are
special tools needed, etc? I know a few of the names on the very august list
and perhaps someone in the know will be kind enough to grace us all with an
outline of the job. Also, has anyone thought about speedometer
recalibration? Will Nisonger's or Palo Alto do this kind of work?
Inquiring minds want to know....
Chow--Michael Oritt
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 16:13:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Cockpit Insulation
HEADS UP all you HOT Healey (and other LBC) owners.
It's 3:30PM and I just got back from my local Menards.
I'm now opening my Second Not-for-Profit Healey accesories "business". (The
first being the ubiquitous Halogen Stop and Tail/Turn Signal Bulbs).
I bought their entire stock of Char-Broil Smoker Blankets - 14 units. Since
Bill Barnett wants a pair and Ed Townley wants a pair and a half I have enough
in my Inventory for insulating 4 1/2 LBC.
First Come First Serve.
There are 15 Menards stores in the Twin Cities so I think I'll be able to
"replenish" my Inventory so if you guys want any send me your checks and
addresses ASAP.
For those of you who have been procrastinating ordering H1157s and H1156s, feel
free to include your orders and checks. I promise I won't hold your
foot-dragging against you. ;>)
Dick Brill
---- you wrote:
>
>
> dickb@cheerful.com wrote:
> >
> > John
> >
> > It's 2PM here in MN. I'm going to drive over to my Menards and see for
>myself. I'll let all know.
> >
> > Dick
> > ---- you wrote:
> > > Dick,
> > >
> > > FYI, I called the 800 number and was told they don't carry that item any
> > > longer; it is no longer avail.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > > John Loftus
> > >
> > > dickb@cheerful.com wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Since individual Listers keep asking for details, I'll repost this
>recent summary -
> > > >
> > >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> > Get your free email from AltaVista at http://altavista.iname.com
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 16:15:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Fwd: Cockpit Insulation
---- you wrote:
>
> Since individual Listers keep asking for details, I'll repost this recent
>summary -
>
> My address is 1400 Rice Creek Road NE, Fridley MN 55432
>
> "
> To:
>
> rader@interworld.net healeys@autox.team.net
> From:
>
> dickb@cheerful.com
> Subject:
>
> Re: Insulation material
> CC:
>
>
>
>
>
> Ron
>
> I would have called you but I see
>you're not listed in the AHCA directory.
>
> Here's the deal - I don't know
>how to access the Healey List archives. Maybe
> another Lister can help us.
>
> Char-Broil (1-800-241-8981) makes
>a BarBQ Accesory called a Smoker Blanket.
> It is a rectangle of heavy
>aluminum foil/quilted, two-ply, with fiberglass
> batting in the middle. It has
>snaps on two edges so you can wrap it around a
> standard Smoker - about 3 ft high
>and 18" in diameter, TO KEEP THE HEAT
> IN. The unit is about 1/8" or
>1/4" thick.
>
> It costs about $5 plus tax. I
>bought two of them at my local Menards,
> removed the carpet, seats, trans
>tunnel of my BT7 and "upholstered"
> all the horizontal surfaces and
>the footwells and the firewall. Then I
> replaced the tunnel and I had
>enough to cover it as well. The material is
> flexible but rigid enough that I
>didn't even glue it down or tape it down.
> It conformed.
>
> You should be able to get it from
>Char-Broil direct or at Home Depot or
> whatever your local
>"category-killer" is called.
>
> If you fail to find it, send me
>$6 for each one you want plus $6 postage (for
> two) and $8 postage (for three)
>and I'll buy them, pack them up and mail them
> to you.
>
> I've done this a few times for
>listers and so far have lost $2-4 per
> shipment, and since I'm reposting
>this to the List I'd like to cut my losses
> for future orders <G> That's why
>I increased my price estimates
> slightly (in case you find the
>Archives and see $15/pair referred to). (In
> my 65 years I've at least
>discovered that I can't make up for small losses on
> the Volume - HaHa.)
>
> But I'll be glad to do the
>legwork for you if need be.
>
> Regards,
>
> DickB
> 612-571-4227
> '62 AH BT7 MK II Tri-Carb
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 16:18:42 -0400
Subject: Re: 3.50 Gear Sets - Status
The "book" time for overhauling the diff centre section, including remove and
replace is 6.5 hours.
I have found that setting up the crown and pinion can take a while particularly
if you don't have the original shims that were used with that set.
In my experiance the case machining is pretty consistant so you will usually be
very close if you transfer all the parts, including the shims, from one case to
another.
The big hastle is that without those shims you really need a set up gauge set to
determine the thickness of the shims that go under the pinion head bearing. A
good transmission guy could probably do that for you.
If you try to do it by trial and error there is a pretty good chance that you
will destroy the bearing taking it on and off particularly if you don't have an
18G285 Diff Pinion Inner Race & Roller Bearing Removal Tool.
I'm sure that one of those could be picked up at Pep Boys ;-)
If you get it all wrong the diff will be noisy and wear very quickly.
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Michael Lempert wrote:
> As an amendment to my recent 3.50 gear status...
>
> I have had a few listers ask about price. Since I neglected to include it
> in the status, here it is again: $220 per set plus shipping. I'm trying
> to arrange with the gear people to ship direct to you guys in order to lower
> costs and provide the best packaging. I'm hoping to keep the shipping and
> handling to no more than $15. Out of country orders may be more.
>
> The number of commitments has gone up already. Now we're at 39 ! It seems
> every time the subject is posted a few more jump on board. I also omitted
> two people by mistake. A few more are on the fence.
>
> If anyone out there has experience with installing these units, would you
> please give the group a short story on how it's done ? Some folks appear to
> be concerned with the level of complexity. I only have experience taking
> one apart - I think I'll have someone else put mine back in.
>
> The new updated list of participants is:
>
> 2 Mike Lempert
> 1 Jim Smith
> 1 Robert Barback
> 1 Dr. Carl Rubino
> 2 John Vrugtman
> 1 Jack Jakobsen
> 1 Ray Juncal
> 2 Bob McElwee
> 1 John Heffron
> 1 Roland Wilhelmy
> 2 Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
> 1 Mark Fawcett
> 1 Fred Scheuble
> 1 Colin O'Brien
> 2 Skip Saunders
> 1 John Loftus
> 1 Reid Trummel
> 1 Marshall Dixon
> 1 Alfred Haymond
> 1 Jim Cox
> 1 Bill Wycoff
> 1 Bob Spidell
> 10 Bob Yule
> 1 Pete Pollock
> 1 Dave Bowers
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 16:24:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Conclave
I'll be there. Arriving mid day Sunday and staying to the bitter end!!!
Gonna help judge some nice cars in the Concours event. Drop by, see how much
fun we really do have and say hi!
Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2000 5:12 PM
Subject: Conclave
>
> All those going to Conclave in Indianapolis please raise your hands!
>
> Michael (^i^)
>
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 13:37:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil changes- basic facts for newbies
Hi Steve,
The plastic vent cap pops off easily; just used a slight twisting motion
when pulling. Yes, you still need to pull the filler plug to provide an
opening that lets you know you have filled it enough. I mentioned the
top fill tube because it is so much easier for pouring the oil (on the
BJ7 anyway).
Maybe new jack stands would help. Bought mine from Sears, 3.5 ton
capacity and the low setting is about 13.5" off the ground. I have to
lift the front end first, place jackstands and then the rear end, place
jack stands and remember to follow the reverse order to lower the car.
But it's an easy two step process. Also, the cradles at the top of the
stands are sized perfectly for the main frame members.
Cheers,
John
Steve Byers wrote:
>
> Hi, John --
> I have a hard time getting the car jacked up high enough to get 4 jackstands
> under it without a lot of effort. And the BJ8 rear seats have to be removed
> from underneath anyway.
> The breather tube you found, I believe, is the vent for the rear axle
> housing. I know the "cap" can be turned, but I didn't know it could be
> removed (I was afraid to pull on it hard enough perhaps to break it). If
> you filled it that way, wouldn't you still have to check the level by
> pulling the plug?
>
> Steve
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
> To: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
> Cc: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Tuesday, July 11, 2000 11:32 PM
> Subject: Re: Oil changes- basic facts for newbies
>
> >Hi Steve,
> >
> >I recently put the BJ7 up on jackstands to check and fill the diff. so
> >that keeps everything level. Then I removed the right rear seat pan and
> >attached a short piece of clear tubing to the oil bottle spout to make
> >it easier to get to the filler opening. Not too difficult but I noticed
> >there is a breather tube with a pull off cap on the top of the diff.
> >housing that looks ideal for the filling operation. I'll try that the
> >next time...hehe.. maybe when the new 3.5 rearend arrives.....
> >
> >Cheers,
> >John
> >
> >
> >
> >Steve Byers wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> Filling the diff is difficult. It's supposed to be filled until the
> level
> >> is even with the bottom of the filler hole, but I have to have the rear
> of
> >> the car jacked up quite a bit to get to the filler. Having suffered some
> >> diff oil leaks past the pinion seal, I replaced the seal and filled the
> diff
> >> to what I thought was about right. After I returned the car to level and
> >> installed the plug, it continued to leak oil past the new pinion seal (I
> >> thought it was defective) until it reached its proper level and quit.
> >
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 13:33:16 -0700
Subject: RE: Stripping engine compartments
Hi Everyone
Thanks for all the great input. This is my first big Healey, and it
really helps to have the collective wisdom of longtime owners and
restorers. Experience is what you get right after you need it. The
list helps to prevent regetable mistakes. Specifically with regard to
all the ducting: Mine is chewed up on the left side, and needs
replacement anyway. The right side and the blower motor look okay. I
think I can successfully clean those areas without disturbing those
items. The paint I'm trying to remove was not applied with much care,
so those inner areas that accumulate dirt were probably not cleaned
before application. I'm hoping it will come off easily in there. When
I have something to look at, I'll post pictures. Thanks again everyone,
and happly Healying.
Martin Johnson
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 9:02 AM
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Stripping engine compartments
In a message dated 7/11/00 6:42:32 PM, magicare@home.com writes:
<< IMHO you would be very wise to tread very carefully if you are
intending to
remove the blower and heater and vent ducts. We ahve found these very
hard to
refit well
Just a note of caution from one who has been there (many times). >>
Mike's right (as he generally is) about the difficulty of getting them
re-fitted. However, it's just as hard trying to get the relay box in
and out
with the fresh air duct in as it is to get the air duct in, and with the
air
duct in, you can't effectively repaint a lot of what you can see in the
engine compartment.
The trick on putting the fresh air duct in is to push it down into the
space
between the inner and outer fender so that it forms a loop. That makes
it
much easier to get the inner end back onto the opening into the foot
well.
It isn't nearly as hard to fit the duct if you do it while the carbs and
manifolds are out.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 16:44:45 EDT
Subject: BN1 Transmission Dilemma
Mike and Allen
I've been following this thread with interest and have what I believe is the
answer to your dilemma. According to my expert sources who have seen this
happen many times before with BMC cast parts, very often the number cast on
the part is for some strange reason (don't ask me why) one digit off of the
listed part number in the parts book, specifically e.g. 1B 3694 is the same
part as 1B 3693 (laygear). I described this very example to my expert and he
is 99% sure that they are identical parts. This should mean that it would
correspond to 1B 3697 (3rd speed mainshaft gear with adapter).
However this brings up another important point for Allen, specifically what
is the gearbox number on your transmission? My point is that from gearbox
number 5146 and subsequent a modified third speed gear, incorporating larger
and stronger gear teeth was fitted, and the 1st motion shaft and the laygear
were modified to suit the new third gear. This was described in an Austin
Service Journal bulletin and listed as part number 58G 341 (Third Speed
Mainshaft Gear), which incorporated:
To further clarify, the 1st Motion shaft with cone and adapter, Austin Part
Number 1B 3549 was replaced by 1B 3695. 3rd Speed mainshaft gear with
cone and adapter, 1B 3625 was replaced by 1B 3697 and the Laygear with
bushes, Austin Part Number 1B 3481 was replaced by 1B 3693.
Bottom line is that your gearbox probably is #5146 or later (higher) or if it
is #5145 or earlier it was fitted at some time during its life with the later
strengthened gears.
I hope that I haven't confused those of you who even care about such things
and please let me know what you find.
Cheers
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA with gearbox #7633 and spare #4749.
From "Bill Gildea " <bgildea at portjeff.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 18:02:23 -0400
Subject: Brake bleed
Some help please: When my BJ8 sits for a while, the brake pedal softens, the
resevoir 1/2 empties and I have no brakes. The last time this happened, I added
fluid, bled the brakes, and all was well. This time when I went to bled them
only a couple of drops of fluid ran out of the nipple and they wouldn't pump
up. The weird thing is there is no puddle of fluid on the garage floor, either
under the wheels or master cylinder area????? Also, I haven't run the engine
since the last brake bleed, as I thought about the servo leaking, but my
understanding is that the engine has to run to pour into the servo. Any and
all suggestions accepted gratefully!
Bill Gildea
67 BJ8
From Allen Edwards <allene at ispchannel.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 15:03:43 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 Transmission Dilemma
Thanks for the posting, sounds logical to me. Could be that number is
the part number before some finishing operation and they used a paper
label for the final part number but who knows. My transmission, number
4602 had some of the gears replaced about 1968 by yours truly. All I
remember is that the year before I sequentially broke all of the forward
gears except high gear. Upon returning to Los Angeles, I replaced a lot
of gears (perhaps all of them). The 1st motion shaft is indeed 1B
3695. So if I follow all of what you are saying, it is almost certain
that once I get everything apart I will find 3rd gear is 1B 3697. I
will find out Saturday.
Allen
CNAArndt@aol.com wrote:
>
> Mike and Allen
>
> I've been following this thread with interest and have what I believe is the
> answer to your dilemma. According to my expert sources who have seen this
> happen many times before with BMC cast parts, very often the number cast on
> the part is for some strange reason (don't ask me why) one digit off of the
> listed part number in the parts book, specifically e.g. 1B 3694 is the same
> part as 1B 3693 (laygear). I described this very example to my expert and he
> is 99% sure that they are identical parts. This should mean that it would
> correspond to 1B 3697 (3rd speed mainshaft gear with adapter).
>
> However this brings up another important point for Allen, specifically what
> is the gearbox number on your transmission? My point is that from gearbox
> number 5146 and subsequent a modified third speed gear, incorporating larger
> and stronger gear teeth was fitted, and the 1st motion shaft and the laygear
> were modified to suit the new third gear. This was described in an Austin
> Service Journal bulletin and listed as part number 58G 341 (Third Speed
> Mainshaft Gear), which incorporated:
>
> To further clarify, the 1st Motion shaft with cone and adapter, Austin Part
> Number 1B 3549 was replaced by 1B 3695. 3rd Speed mainshaft gear with
> cone and adapter, 1B 3625 was replaced by 1B 3697 and the Laygear with
> bushes, Austin Part Number 1B 3481 was replaced by 1B 3693.
>
> Bottom line is that your gearbox probably is #5146 or later (higher) or if it
> is #5145 or earlier it was fitted at some time during its life with the later
> strengthened gears.
>
> I hope that I haven't confused those of you who even care about such things
> and please let me know what you find.
>
> Cheers
>
> Curt Arndt
> Carlsbad, CA with gearbox #7633 and spare #4749.
From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 18:16:11 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 Transmission Dilemma
Allen
I agree with you since all three of the later strengthened parts would have
replaced as a set or they wouldn't have worked. Since you have an earlier
gearbox (#4602) it seems logical that in 1968 when you purchased replacement
gears that you would have gotten the improved set i.e. Austin Part Number 58G
341.
Curt Arndt
In a message dated 07/12/2000 3:01:17 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
allene@ispchannel.com writes:
<< Thanks for the posting, sounds logical to me. Could be that number is
the part number before some finishing operation and they used a paper
label for the final part number but who knows. My transmission, number
4602 had some of the gears replaced about 1968 by yours truly. All I
remember is that the year before I sequentially broke all of the forward
gears except high gear. Upon returning to Los Angeles, I replaced a lot
of gears (perhaps all of them). The 1st motion shaft is indeed 1B
3695. So if I follow all of what you are saying, it is almost certain
that once I get everything apart I will find 3rd gear is 1B 3697. I
will find out Saturday. >>
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 18:22:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Char Broil
Don
The Blankets I sent you cost me $4.99 plus 8% tax and if you add the postage
you saw on your package and deduct the total from the $15 you sent me I think
you will see that I "made" about Negative $1.50. Hardly a " New Business" <G>
One of the first sets of my Halogen Bulbs was installed in Chuck Anderson's
BJ8 Series 2 in 1993-4. Chuck (most of you know him as a past-Pres of AHCA
and one of the true Drive My Healey Everywhere people) puts on 10-12,000 miles
a YEAR and He hasn't complained or suffered any damage to his plastic lenses
in eight years.
I have No Idea where any other so-called Halogen Bulbs come from, or even if
they Are Halogens. All I know is that I've NEVER replaced one of mine for
burn-out, melted lenses, or anything else.
LBC Co., SB, whoever, are pretty secretive about the source of their bulbs, so
I can't speak to their bulbs at all.
I don't know what a CHMSL center-mounted light Is. But if I had to make holes
in my bootlid I'd sure try Halogen Tailights first.
This conversation could go around a few more hundred times, which is really OK
with me. I started this to help out my fellow Healey owners. If I live until
2010 I just might hit the break-even point on the bulb "business"
Hope I've helped.
Dick
---- you wrote:
> Hi, Dick
> Sounds like you've got a new business there! Sorry I'm so late
> in thanking you for getting me the smoker blankets, but we did a
> dreadful thing - we went on vacation for 2 weeks. The blanket is in
> the car. It installed easily, and I'm anxious to try it out. All thats
> in my way is a failed booster (I hope that's all it is!).
> I'm curious about the halogen lights. I talked with several
> club members that had experience with them. Two of the three removed
> them after damaging the plastic lamp lenses. One substituted a CHMSL
> (center high mounted stop lamp) instead. I don't know where they got
> theirs, and how they might differ from yours. Any comments, please?
> Thanks,
> DON
> BJ8 Pandora
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 17:41:45 -0500
Subject: 3.50 Installation
>
>If anyone out there has experience with installing these units, would you
>please give the group a short story on how it's done ? Some folks appear to
>be concerned with the level of complexity. I only have experience taking
>one apart - I think I'll have someone else put mine back in.
I wrote an article that touches on this subject. It appeared a year or so
ago in AH Mag. There is a copy posted at:
http://www.ntahc.austin1.com/techtips/REAREND1.html
It is a little more than a shade tree wrench turner should tackle but with
patience, a few special tools and a clean place to work, its do-able.
Best regards
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 15:47:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Pipe dreaming? (paint and interior)
Hmmm...5k may get your body done but don't expect an interior too. Based on
the bids I have for similar work (no interior work), your estimate is sadly
short by a good margin. If you do find a good shop to do it for that
price, have the work done, take some photos and please email me the pics and
the shop's name. Thanks............. Coop
> Alright guys, help set me straight.
> I am thinking of having the exterior body's paint stripped, minor
> bodywork (ie. dings & minor pushed panels), both hoods stripped, and
strip
> out the interior and repaint and have an interior done in the car (59
> BT7). Interior would consist of rugs and new upholstery.
>
> This car will never be a concourse car, no painting under the hood
> other than the hood itself, and I will take all the shiny work off the car
> and put back on when done, and I will strip the interior out of the car.
>
> I'm thinking $5K should do it. Am I being realistic in putting away
> that amount noting that unforeseen things could crop up?
>
> Mike B
> 59 BT7
>
>
>
>
>
From "Andrew Shrimpton" <stanhickeycon at clear.net.nz>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 11:09:37 +1200
Subject: Nardi Steering Wheel
I have a Nardi Classico steering wheel which I would like to fit to my
BT7. Does anyone know if the boss sold by SC Parts Group (UK), part no
SC1230 will carry this wheel??
Appreciate any advice
Andrew Shrimpton (NZ)
BT7
From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 20:08:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Pipe dreaming? (paint and interior)
Sorry, if you did all the work yourself you might be able to get it done
for 5 K.
No way if someone else doing all the work
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7 (just completed restoring)
From "Alan Hantke" <Alan_Hantke at i2.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 11:16:56 -0700
Subject: Re: OD drain plug wrench
This works well, but I made a little caveat by 'making' my chisel out
of a piece of soft material (I actually used brass). My intent here
was to have my tool dent and get mashed up before the cap. I've also
thought about making a tool to remove the cap. This should be
relatively easy to do... a piect of appropriately sized pipe and then
some keystock welded into the correct locations to engage the 'teeth'
of cap.
Now for a more basic question... how do you compress a front spring
when the car is off of the ground. I'm told that you can get a couple
of all-thread rods, but where do you place them, etc.
Thanks,
--Alan
From Mike Tobin <bt7 at pppatch.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 20:57:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Pipe dreaming? (paint and interior)
"Shipwrights Disease"? You mean there's a name for what I've got?
While visiting my son he tossed me the keys to his Spitefire and said "Dad
you gotta take it for a drive!" well it worked - as soon as the engine
caught I thought "I HAVE to get the Healey running."
It had been a garage queen for more years than I'll admit to. It was
sorely in need of a full restoration and I'd been reluctant to undertake
the commitment.
With the drive in the Spit I thought, "Yeah, the beast looks like S*** but
who cares? All I really want to do is drive it. I'll just do the
mechanicals. That's a year max (I'd done a couple engines and that sort
of thing didn't worry me; it was the body work I was afraid of). Be on the
road by next Spring!"
Yeah.
That was two years ago. I've got a BT7 chassis with only the engine and
tranny in it on jackstands. This weekend I finally got the new sill and B
pillar welded in (on one side only). The door gaps are perfect!
It started OK. Rebuilt the OD. Replaced all the seals in the diff.
Rebuilt the fuel pump. Put in new spring bushings and sent the rear shocks
to Apple to be rebuild. But, hey that whole mess was so much trouble to
get out and now the whole rear end is accessible, I'll just strip all the
old crud off and redo just the rear.
Is that a pinhole in fuel tank? Now that the tank is out of the boot, why
don't I just redo that too?
You get the idea.
Cheers,
Mike Tobin
Enough parts in the garage to build a BT7
At 06:54 PM 07/12/2000 Wednesday +0000, Mike Barron wrote:
>
>
>>From the tone of your post, it appears that you are a prime candidate for
>"Shipwrights Disease". You know, the one where you decide to clean the
>glass on the hallway lamp on the yacht, and while doing it, you note that
>the fixture is cracked, so you replace it, but while you are replacing it,
>you notice that the wireing is looking really old, so you replace it, and
>while replacing it, you figure that as long as you are working electrics,
>you may as well upgrade the fuse box, and what the hell, as long as you are
>upgrading, you can get that new fridge that uses more power,
>and.....................
>
>Mike Barron
>Triumph owner, and Healey luster.
>
>>From: M Brouillette <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
>>Reply-To: M Brouillette <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
>>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>>Subject: Pipe dreaming? (paint and interior)
>>Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 14:05:15 -0400
>>
>> Alright guys, help set me straight.
>>
>> I am thinking of having the exterior body's paint stripped, minor
>>bodywork (ie. dings & minor pushed panels), both hoods stripped, and strip
>>out the interior and repaint and have an interior done in the car (59
>>BT7). Interior would consist of rugs and new upholstery.
>>
>> This car will never be a concourse car, no painting under the hood
>>other than the hood itself, and I will take all the shiny work off the car
>>and put back on when done, and I will strip the interior out of the car.
>>
>> I'm thinking $5K should do it. Am I being realistic in putting away
>>that amount noting that unforeseen things could crop up?
>>
>>Mike B
>>59 BT7
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 22:02:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Blue Smoke
Don, given your loss of brake fluid without external leaks, based on the
clouds of smoke I would almost bet your booster is leaking internally. I
had this problem once with my BJ8. Brake fluid burning in the engine will
produce a WHITE cloud rather than a blue one (oil smoke), or black one
(running rich). When I took my booster out and opened it up, it had about a
pint of brake fluid in the big canister.
I had been wondering why the three rear plugs in my engine kept getting a
white powdery stuff on the electrodes until the light came on and I thought
of the booster vacuum line to the rear of the manifold.
Plugging the vacuum line would be a way to check for the booster leak, but
as I recall my car didn't smoke all the time with this problem. If you left
the line off while driving for a while (give the leak time to build some
volume) then reconnected and got the clouds again, that would confirm the
leak.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Gschwind <dgschwind@prodigy.net>
To: 'Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: Gschwind, Don & Ellie <dgschwind@prodigy.net>
Date: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 2:36 AM
Subject: Blue Smoke
>
>Hi, Listers.
> Please give me a little advice. My car, BJ8, has been down
>since Oct 99 for miscellaneous repairs. I've not touched the engine,
>drivetrain, or brakes. When I was ready to restart it this month, I
>noted the brake fluid was down about 1/2 - 3/4 inch, so I refilled it.
>I pulled the plugs for inspection, everything was ok, so I cranked it
>a few times to get oil pressure, still all ok. I started it in the
>garage, no blue smoke, everything still ok. About two weeks later I
>fired it up to take a short drive. The brake pedal was low, and it
>took one pump to get it "normal". No smoke in the garage, but once on
>the road it was horrendous! I thought I was dusting for Gypsy Moths or
>something. I just drove it about 1/2 mile and brought it back. It has
>not been a smoker before I put it away, and oil consumption was about
>700-800 miles per quart. My first suspicion is the brake booster
>leaking fluid into the vacuum chamber as there are no visible leaks at
>the wheels or elsewhere to account for the fluid loss. Question: How
>do I diagnose this better?
> If I disconnect the vacuum line to the booster from the manifold
>and plug the fitting then start the engine and I see no smoke, does
>this prove it's the booster? Am I apt to do any harm to anything else?
>Would a compression check be in order before I drive it? I had it done
>about 3000 miles ago and everthing checked about 150-160 when warm,
>and all were nearly the same. Should I peak into the oil filler with
>the engine running to see if there is excessive oil leakage at the
>rocker arms?
> What else should I do to inspect and correct the problem?
>Thanks all of you experts, Pandora and I need your advice.
>DON
>BJ8 Pandora
>
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 22:16:57 -0400
Subject: Re: OD drain plug wrench
Hi, Alan --
With a welder, making a tool to remove the O/D drain plug is fairly simple.
I made one out of sheet metal about 1/8 inch thick.
First, I traced the outline of the O/D drain plug on the sheet metal. It
was then easy to draw in the "wrench" with two teeth to fit the plug. I
cut this out of the metal, but found that it was easier to swing the wrench
in the space allowed if it had a "kink" or joggle between the handle and
the jaws. I even made a wooden handle for it, like the wood of a knife
handle sandwiches the metal. Those are the basics. I had to build up the
thickness of the two teeth by welding some more layers, and it took a little
filing to get the teeth to fit the plug, but it works just fine.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Hantke <Alan_Hantke@i2.com>
To: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>; John Loftus
<loftusdesign@home.com>; owner-healeys@autox.team.net
<owner-healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 9:58 PM
Subject: Re: OD drain plug wrench
>
>This works well, but I made a little caveat by 'making' my chisel out
>of a piece of soft material (I actually used brass). My intent here
>was to have my tool dent and get mashed up before the cap. I've also
>thought about making a tool to remove the cap. This should be
>relatively easy to do... a piect of appropriately sized pipe and then
>some keystock welded into the correct locations to engage the 'teeth'
>of cap.
>
>Now for a more basic question... how do you compress a front spring
>when the car is off of the ground. I'm told that you can get a couple
>of all-thread rods, but where do you place them, etc.
>
>Thanks,
>--Alan
From "RR Moss" <rr_moss at hotmail.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 03:33:51 GMT
Subject: SERVO
<<) If you
<suspect its the servo please contact me off list for a couple of NON
<LOCKHEED solutions.
<R Kirk
Would like to hear that but don't you mean Girling
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________
From CEWPlatt at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 00:51:55 EDT
Subject: BN1/2 Flywheel Mod
Hello,
Many people have mentioned lightening the flywheel as a good improvement.
Does anyone have any specifics for a BN1/2? It looks like material can be
removed from the engine side of the flywheel and also at the outside diameter
on the tranny side. I do not foresee obtaining the weight reduction others
have mentioned though without making additional drastic changes. Any thoughts
or details on what others have done would be appreciated.
Clay Platt
1954 BN1
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at slip.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 23:00:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Blue Smoke
Steve Byers wrote:
. Brake fluid burning in the engine will
> produce a WHITE cloud rather than a blue one (oil smoke), or black one
> (running rich).
Anyone know what color smoke silicone brake fluid makes when burned?
Purple?
bs
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 7:02 PM
Subject: Re: Blue Smoke
>
> Don, given your loss of brake fluid without external leaks, based on the
> clouds of smoke I would almost bet your booster is leaking internally. I
> had this problem once with my BJ8. Brake fluid burning in the engine will
> produce a WHITE cloud rather than a blue one (oil smoke), or black one
> (running rich). When I took my booster out and opened it up, it had about a
> pint of brake fluid in the big canister.
> I had been wondering why the three rear plugs in my engine kept getting a
> white powdery stuff on the electrodes until the light came on and I thought
> of the booster vacuum line to the rear of the manifold.
>
> Plugging the vacuum line would be a way to check for the booster leak, but
> as I recall my car didn't smoke all the time with this problem. If you left
> the line off while driving for a while (give the leak time to build some
> volume) then reconnected and got the clouds again, that would confirm the
> leak.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Don Gschwind <dgschwind@prodigy.net>
> To: 'Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Cc: Gschwind, Don & Ellie <dgschwind@prodigy.net>
> Date: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 2:36 AM
> Subject: Blue Smoke
>
>
> >
> >Hi, Listers.
> > Please give me a little advice. My car, BJ8, has been down
> >since Oct 99 for miscellaneous repairs. I've not touched the engine,
> >drivetrain, or brakes. When I was ready to restart it this month, I
> >noted the brake fluid was down about 1/2 - 3/4 inch, so I refilled it.
> >I pulled the plugs for inspection, everything was ok, so I cranked it
> >a few times to get oil pressure, still all ok. I started it in the
> >garage, no blue smoke, everything still ok. About two weeks later I
> >fired it up to take a short drive. The brake pedal was low, and it
> >took one pump to get it "normal". No smoke in the garage, but once on
> >the road it was horrendous! I thought I was dusting for Gypsy Moths or
> >something. I just drove it about 1/2 mile and brought it back. It has
> >not been a smoker before I put it away, and oil consumption was about
> >700-800 miles per quart. My first suspicion is the brake booster
> >leaking fluid into the vacuum chamber as there are no visible leaks at
> >the wheels or elsewhere to account for the fluid loss. Question: How
> >do I diagnose this better?
> > If I disconnect the vacuum line to the booster from the manifold
> >and plug the fitting then start the engine and I see no smoke, does
> >this prove it's the booster? Am I apt to do any harm to anything else?
> >Would a compression check be in order before I drive it? I had it done
> >about 3000 miles ago and everthing checked about 150-160 when warm,
> >and all were nearly the same. Should I peak into the oil filler with
> >the engine running to see if there is excessive oil leakage at the
> >rocker arms?
> > What else should I do to inspect and correct the problem?
> >Thanks all of you experts, Pandora and I need your advice.
> >DON
> >BJ8 Pandora
> >
>
>
From "Andy King" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 22:07:14 -1000
Subject: Re: SERVO
Hello R Kirk are you out there!
I am going to try and overhaul the brake servo in the resurection of my BJ8
. I am told that it would be wiser to light my self on fire, and throw
myself into the street. So I would be very interested if you could please
give your advise on the list, or at least send it on to me. If I were wise I
would have saved up and purchased a finished Healey.
Aloha Andy
----- Original Message -----
From: "RR Moss" <rr_moss@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 5:33 PM
Subject: SERVO
>
> <<) If you
> <suspect its the servo please contact me off list for a couple of NON
> <LOCKHEED solutions.
> <R Kirk
>
> Would like to hear that but don't you mean Girling
>
> Ralph
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 22:38:47 -0400
Subject: Re: OD drain plug wrench
I use a piece of 1/8" thick angle iron about 3/8" on a side,
about 12" long (dimensions are approximate). I used
an angle grinder to cut out a section of one side
equivalent to the distance between the insides of the
slots. The fit is a bit sloppy and I have to watch out
for my knuckles, but it does work.
Side view:
___ _______________________________
| |_________________|
|
|__________________________________________________ |
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan Hantke <Alan_Hantke@i2.com>
To: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>; John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>;
<owner-healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 2:16 PM
Subject: Re: OD drain plug wrench
>
> This works well, but I made a little caveat by 'making' my chisel out
> of a piece of soft material (I actually used brass). My intent here
> was to have my tool dent and get mashed up before the cap. I've also
> thought about making a tool to remove the cap. This should be
> relatively easy to do... a piect of appropriately sized pipe and then
> some keystock welded into the correct locations to engage the 'teeth'
> of cap.
>
> Now for a more basic question... how do you compress a front spring
> when the car is off of the ground. I'm told that you can get a couple
> of all-thread rods, but where do you place them, etc.
>
> Thanks,
> --Alan
>
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 18:48:38 +1000
Subject: Re: Small Electric Cooling Fans
NOT THE TEXAS KOOLER AGAIN................
----- Original Message -----
From: <Drtrite@aol.com>
To: <DGSCHWIND@prodigy.net>; <PVANDAL@aol.com>; <healey27@mindspring.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <dgschwind@prodigy.net>
Sent: Wednesday, 12 July 2000 23:46
Subject: Re: Small Electric Cooling Fans
>
> In a message dated 7/12/2000 00:15:22 Central Daylight Time,
> DGSCHWIND@prodigy.net writes:
>
> << My PO had installed an electric fan attached to the "X"brace
> forward of the radiator. >>
>
> For the electric fan to do any good it should be mounted to the radiator
face.
>
> How about putting a good Texas Kooler on? They work!
>
> Don
> NTAHC
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 06:57:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Memorabilia....
Neil,
When you say A&W, do you mean that root beer or is it something else? Any
clues as to where to find it would be appreciated.
Rudy in NC
From Bob Brown <rcbrown at lucent.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 07:00:01 -0500
Subject: ATW News from Morocco
An excerpt from today's ATW report. It appears that the BJ8 springs in
a BT7 to add height is not a workable solution. THe Hunt's have gone
through 2 sets of BJ8 springs since the Yukon. The springs they started
with in London were custom made to increase ride height, but one broke
in China, the second in the Yukon and it has been a problem ever since.
It would be interesting to know what springs are being used in the
Healey of Rick Dyke-Price and Stuart Onyette
"Only" 7 days remaining and no more "special" test sections, just a
relatively leisurely drive to London.
Report from Erfoud - Morocco - Day 73
There was hurried repairs for the Hunt's Healey in the boiling sun this
afternoon with rear spring problems...and the Facel Vega arrived into
the hotel car park and promptly dropped its prop-shaft. Soon fixed.
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 13:23:21 +0100
Subject: RE: OD drain plug wrench
Hi,
Maybe I'm lucky-perhaps the PO put on a "Better"(?)
drain plug. (Though it looks 100% standard).
Anyhow, I use a large adjustable spanner and it comes off
first time every time.
Any LARGE spanner will have a variety of uses in a
Healey, so it's purchase will be a fairly sound investment?
Simon.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John Loftus
> Sent: 12 July 2000 19:30
> To: Lee S. Mairs
> Cc: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
> Subject: Re: OD drain plug wrench
>
>
>
> Hi Lee,
>
> I used the same technique last time except used a punch instead of a
> dull chisel. Maybe because the PO had used some sealant on the treads,
> it was difficult to get off without beating up the notches. The plug
> material is pretty soft.
>
> I'll probably make up a wrench for the next time around unless someone
> has them at a reasonable price.
>
> Regards,
> John
>
> "Lee S. Mairs" wrote:
> >
> > That plug is designed to be "chiseled off". Take an old chisel
> and grind
> > down the edge so that it is dull as it can possibly be. Insert
> the chisel
> > in the notch and gently tap the plug in the appropriate direction.
> > Works like a charm!
> > I use the same technique to loosen lock nuts on marine stuffing
> boxes, some
> > of which have been frozen in place for ten years or more. It
> hasn't failed
> > yet.
> > Lee
> > '62 BT7 Tri-carb
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
> > To: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Date: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 12:30 PM
> > Subject: OD drain plug wrench
> >
> > >
> > >Does anyone have a source for a wrench that fits the notched OD drain
> > >plug (2nd type)?
From "jim t.p. ryan" <ryan at jimryan.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 05:59:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Pipe dreaming? (paint and interior)
Mike,
Your just talking about stripping and painting? No major body work, all the
metal is there? I think you could get that done in this area (NH) for 5k. I
have no idea about the interior, but that's just parts to be installed right?
You'll do that yourself?
Sincerely,
Jim Ryan
64 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
Sent: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 20:08:14 EDT
To: coop1@dnai.com
CC: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Pipe dreaming? (paint and interior)
Sorry, if you did all the work yourself you might be able to get it done
for 5 K.
No way if someone else doing all the work
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7 (just completed restoring)
___________________________________________________________________________
Visit http://www.visto.com/info, your free web-based communications center.
Visto.com. Life on the Dot.
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 05:52:01 -0600
Subject: Re: SERVO
I have overhauled mine using a Moss kit with no problems, simple job
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy King" <healey-100@hawaii.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 2:07 AM
Subject: Re: SERVO
>
> Hello R Kirk are you out there!
>
> I am going to try and overhaul the brake servo in the resurection of my
BJ8
> . I am told that it would be wiser to light my self on fire, and throw
> myself into the street. So I would be very interested if you could please
> give your advise on the list, or at least send it on to me. If I were wise
I
> would have saved up and purchased a finished Healey.
>
> Aloha Andy
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "RR Moss" <rr_moss@hotmail.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 5:33 PM
> Subject: SERVO
>
>
> >
> > <<) If you
> > <suspect its the servo please contact me off list for a couple of NON
> > <LOCKHEED solutions.
> > <R Kirk
> >
> > Would like to hear that but don't you mean Girling
> >
> > Ralph
> >
> > ________________________________________________________________________
> >
>
>
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 10:56:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: OD drain plug wrench
With the greatest of respect guys --------what's wrong with a rag and a large
channel-lock pliers? I've only drained my OD twice in nearly ten years - same
with my tranny - and I didn't put a mark on the OD drain plug. (and the
channel-locks are terrific for squeezing the caliper pistons back when you
change pads, among other things)
Of course, if you had an empty drawer in your toolbox ..............:>)
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> I use a piece of 1/8" thick angle iron about 3/8" on a side,
> about 12" long (dimensions are approximate). I used
> an angle grinder to cut out a section of one side
> equivalent to the distance between the insides of the
> slots. The fit is a bit sloppy and I have to watch out
> for my knuckles, but it does work.
>
> Side view:
>
> ___ _______________________________
> | |_________________|
> |
> |__________________________________________________ |
>
> Peter Schauss
> Long Island, NY
> 1963 BJ7
> 1980 MGB
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Alan Hantke <Alan_Hantke@i2.com>
> To: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>; John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>;
> <owner-healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 2:16 PM
> Subject: Re: OD drain plug wrench
>
>
> >
> > This works well, but I made a little caveat by 'making' my chisel out
> > of a piece of soft material (I actually used brass). My intent here
> > was to have my tool dent and get mashed up before the cap. I've also
> > thought about making a tool to remove the cap. This should be
> > relatively easy to do... a piect of appropriately sized pipe and then
> > some keystock welded into the correct locations to engage the 'teeth'
> > of cap.
> >
> > Now for a more basic question... how do you compress a front spring
> > when the car is off of the ground. I'm told that you can get a couple
> > of all-thread rods, but where do you place them, etc.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > --Alan
> >
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From JustBrits at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 11:00:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Pipe dreaming? (paint and interior)
In a message dated 07/12/2000 8:23:08 PM Central Daylight Time,
bt7@pppatch.com writes:
<< "Shipwrights Disease"? You mean there's a name for what I've got? >>
Actually, it's called the "Dominio Theory" guys.<G>
Cheers.........
Ed
From ConSanguis at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 11:00:54 EDT
Subject: Two-seater rear shroud for 1959 3000 MK1
Hello! I am looking for a two-seater rear shroud for a 1959 3000 MK1.
The vehicle I am restoring was apparently rear-ended at some point in history
and the prior owner put a four-seater shroud on for repair. I only need the
aluminum shroud/panel or alternatively that part/cutout of the rear shroud
that makes the two-seater different from the four-seater.
Thank you
Jaret C. Hill
Louisville, Kentucky
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 11:08:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Daimler SP250
Thanks a lot Reid
That did the trick. It's an A spec car (flying doors etc) and has non-OEM
hubcaps and a nice Hot black interior.
Now if I could get back my junked SP, remove the Connolly Bisquit leather
interior, add my OEM Hubcaps (in my "Daimler parts bin" and Extremely Rare
since they're made of Unobtainium), remove my pristine Tan Hood (top), remove
my original Daimler 2.5 liter hemi-head engine and all accessories, remove the
radiator ..............
Oh well, that plus a structural upgrade and I might have re-created my deceased
SP for - say $20,000.
On the other hand, my Hardtop would snap right on - if I repainted the car BRG
(PPG 4457 - same as '95 Pontiac Bonneville Dark Green Metallic)
;>) ;>)
Dick
---- you wrote:
> Click on PHOTO ADS
>
> Then click on IMPORTS
>
> It's on the last page of the import section -- you'll have to scroll down
>each page and keep clicking on NEXT 20 VEHICLES until you get to the last page
>which is labeled NEXT 6 VEHICLES. It's on that last page in the IMPORTS
>section.
>
> Here's a direct link that might work:
> http://www.dealsonwheels.com/search/detailbig.cfm?Autos__ID=16131
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dickb@cheerful.com
> To: "Reid Trummel"<AHCUSA@go.com>
> Date: Wed Jul 12 13:32:33 PDT 2000
> Subject: Re: Re: Daimler SP250
>
> >Reid
> >
> >I went over to Deals on Wheels and after spending 1/2 hour Icouldn't find it.
> >
> >Give me a Hint ;>) - what category?
> >
> >DickB
> >
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: dickb@cheerful.com
> >> To: "Reid Trummel"<AHCUSA@go.com>, "austin healey
>list"<healeys@autox.team.net>
> >> Date: Tue Jul 11 12:03:39 PDT 2000
> >> Subject: Re: Daimler SP250
> >>
> >> << BTW, where is it located and who owns it? >>
> >>
> >> Dick,
> >>
> >> You may have to run out and grab this one! It's located not too far from
>you! No hard feelings from me if you buy it. Here's the text of the ad on
>www.dealsonwheels.com:
> >>
> >> 1959 DAIMLER. Rare British sports car, Ford V8, CDI ignition, alt, daily
>driver, 4 speed, OD, Red, restored. $9,000. (715) 257-7361. ATHENS, WI.
> >>
> >> There's a photo of the car and it looks great. Good luck and let me know
>how you come out.
> >>
> >> Cheers,
> >> Reid
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ___________________________________________________
> >> GO Network Mail
> >> Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >----------------------------------------------------------------
> >Get your free email from AltaVista at http://altavista.iname.com
>
>
> ___________________________________________________
> GO Network Mail
> Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From JustBrits at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 11:09:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave
In a message dated 07/11/2000 8:57:55 PM Central Daylight Time, BGAHC@aol.com
writes:
<< in Kalers' JustBrits Penthouse Suite for a beer, how about it Ed? >>
"Penthouse", Jim?!?!? NOT !! Beer, ABSOLUTLY!! 'Course I've "never" been
known to partake!!
Cheers...........
Ed ("IF" I make it!?!?)
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 11:13:13 EDT
Subject: Re: SERVO
In a message dated 7/13/2000 03:24:37 Central Daylight Time,
healey-100@hawaii.rr.com writes:
<< I am going to try and overhaul the brake servo in the resurection of my BJ8
. I am told that it would be wiser to light my self on fire, and throw
myself into the street. So I would be very interested if you could please
give your advise on the list, or at least send it on to me. >>
Hi Andy,
If you will go to the NTAHC web site <http://www.ntahc.austin1.com> in a few
days and look under tech tips there is a servo reapair article. It is worth
reading
At $1.95 a gallon for gas you don't want to start yourself on fire.
Give our web master a few days to get it loaded to the site.
Good luck,
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 10:20:52 -0500
Subject: Re: BN1/2 Flywheel Mod
Clay:
I believe that you are right about removing material from a stock AH
flywheel. Since the material is cast iron, you cannot remove too much
without risking the integrity of the flywheel. Flywheels that have
substantial lightening holes are generally machined from billet or are a
combination steel/alloy flywheel.
The most you can remove from a stock flywheel without endangering its
integrity is about 4 or 5 pounds. With a custom billet flywheel you can
drop about 12 to 14 pounds. With a steel/alloy flywheel, you can drop 18
to 20 pounds. However, anything less than a final weight of 15 pounds or
so will make the car almost undrivable on the street. You would need to be
racing the car at constant high revs.
There are a number of sources both US and UK that will supply custom
flywheels in the price range of $450 to $600.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
>
>Many people have mentioned lightening the flywheel as a good improvement.
>Does anyone have any specifics for a BN1/2?
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 11:24:44 EDT
Subject: Re: OD drain plug wrench
In a message dated 7/13/00 11:20:36 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<< what's wrong with a rag and a large channel-lock pliers? >>
Dick--
I am amazed hearing that from an everything-maven! You should know that you
NEVER turn anything with a pair of pliers, channel-locks, etc. You only HOLD
something with them and TURN with a wrench, socket, etc. Mayhaps you had
best stick to hawking lightbulbs....
Your forever friend--Michael
From ConSanguis at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 11:43:25 EDT
Subject: Electrical harness for a '59 3000 MK1 BN7 and etc....
I am planning to put a new Electrical harness on my '59 3000 MK1 BN7.
Alternatively, I am looking for a used Electrical harness for my '59 3000 MK1
BN7, if anyone has one! I would appreciate some advice as to the pitfalls I
may encounter before I begin. I am not eager to repeat the slave cylinder
removal scenario, although it vastly improved my usage of profane language
(directed toward mostly English engineers).
I have blown up a copy of the Electrical harness for a '59 3000 MK1 BN7
and gone blind cloring it up with my coloered pencils. Is the Diagram in the
shop manual correct? By the way I am already converted over to a 12V system
and am considering an altanator to replace my generator. Any comments
appreciated.
Jaret C. Hill
Louiaville, Kentucky
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:53:49 +0200
Subject: RE: Pipe dreaming? (paint and interior)
I have friends that call it lunacy...
-----Original Message-----
From: JustBrits@aol.com [mailto:JustBrits@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 11:01 AM
To: bt7@pppatch.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Pipe dreaming? (paint and interior)
In a message dated 07/12/2000 8:23:08 PM Central Daylight Time,
bt7@pppatch.com writes:
<< "Shipwrights Disease"? You mean there's a name for what I've got? >>
Actually, it's called the "Dominio Theory" guys.<G>
Cheers.........
Ed
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 07:47:12 -0600
Subject: Bremerton Vintage Races
I am just wondering if anyone on the list has been to the vintage races
in Bremerton, WA. There is a race scheduled for July 29/30 and I
am wondering if it is worth stopping at on the way home from
Rendezvous 2000 in Ocean Shores, WA.
Ward Stebner
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 11:52:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Daimler SP250
Guys,
If you're looking for a SP250, BritsBits in Rye NH has 3 in
stock. He has a 59 and 2 1962s. His website is
http://www.britbits.com/html/sales.html
At 11:08 AM 7/13/00 -0400, dickb@cheerful.com wrote:
>Thanks a lot Reid
>
>That did the trick. It's an A spec car (flying doors etc) and has non-OEM
>hubcaps and a nice Hot black interior.
>
>Now if I could get back my junked SP, remove the Connolly Bisquit leather
>interior, add my OEM Hubcaps (in my "Daimler parts bin" and Extremely Rare
>since they're made of Unobtainium), remove my pristine Tan Hood (top),
>remove my original Daimler 2.5 liter hemi-head engine and all accessories,
>remove the radiator ..............
>
>Oh well, that plus a structural upgrade and I might have re-created my
>deceased SP for - say $20,000.
>
>On the other hand, my Hardtop would snap right on - if I repainted the car
>BRG (PPG 4457 - same as '95 Pontiac Bonneville Dark Green Metallic)
>
>;>) ;>)
>
>Dick
>
>
> ---- you wrote:
> > Click on PHOTO ADS
> >
> > Then click on IMPORTS
> >
> > It's on the last page of the import section -- you'll have to scroll
> down each page and keep clicking on NEXT 20 VEHICLES until you get to the
> last page which is labeled NEXT 6 VEHICLES. It's on that last page in
> the IMPORTS section.
> >
> > Here's a direct link that might work:
> > http://www.dealsonwheels.com/search/detailbig.cfm?Autos__ID=16131
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: dickb@cheerful.com
> > To: "Reid Trummel"<AHCUSA@go.com>
> > Date: Wed Jul 12 13:32:33 PDT 2000
> > Subject: Re: Re: Daimler SP250
> >
> > >Reid
> > >
> > >I went over to Deals on Wheels and after spending 1/2 hour Icouldn't
> find it.
> > >
> > >Give me a Hint ;>) - what category?
> > >
> > >DickB
> > >
> > >
> > > ---- you wrote:
> > >> -----Original Message-----
> > >> From: dickb@cheerful.com
> > >> To: "Reid Trummel"<AHCUSA@go.com>, "austin healey
> list"<healeys@autox.team.net>
> > >> Date: Tue Jul 11 12:03:39 PDT 2000
> > >> Subject: Re: Daimler SP250
> > >>
> > >> << BTW, where is it located and who owns it? >>
> > >>
> > >> Dick,
> > >>
> > >> You may have to run out and grab this one! It's located not too far
> from you! No hard feelings from me if you buy it. Here's the text of
> the ad on www.dealsonwheels.com:
> > >>
> > >> 1959 DAIMLER. Rare British sports car, Ford V8, CDI ignition, alt,
> daily driver, 4 speed, OD, Red, restored. $9,000. (715)
> 257-7361. ATHENS, WI.
> > >>
> > >> There's a photo of the car and it looks great. Good luck and let me
> know how you come out.
> > >>
> > >> Cheers,
> > >> Reid
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> ___________________________________________________
> > >> GO Network Mail
> > >> Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >----------------------------------------------------------------
> > >Get your free email from AltaVista at http://altavista.iname.com
> >
> >
> > ___________________________________________________
> > GO Network Mail
> > Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com
> >
> >
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 08:53:58 -0700
Subject: Re: OD drain plug wrench
Hi Dick,
Using a rag and Channel-locks did not even enter my mind. Personally, I
don't like to break out Vise Grips or Channel-locks on a vehicle unless
I'm desperate and plan to replace the offending part. Maybe it goes back
to a great shop teacher I had who instilled respect for tools and using
the right tool for the job. He would go ballistic at anyone who used a
hammer on the end of a screwdriver for instance.
You make a good point about not needing an OD drain plug wrench very
often but my toolbox is full of tools like that! It just makes it that
much more special when I have a chance to use it!
Respectfully and no flames intended,
John
dickb@cheerful.com wrote:
>
> With the greatest of respect guys --------what's wrong with a rag and a large
>channel-lock pliers? I've only drained my OD twice in nearly ten years - same
>with my tranny - and I didn't put a mark on the OD drain plug. (and the
>channel-locks are terrific for squeezing the caliper pistons back when you
>change pads, among other things)
>
> Of course, if you had an empty drawer in your toolbox ..............:>)
>
> DickB
From "Brad Weldon" <bweldon at georgefox.edu>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 08:53:08 -0700
Subject: RE: Pipe dreaming? (paint and interior)
Over here in Oregon, we've always called it WYAIS
the "while you're at it" syndrome...
Brad
55 bn1
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of JustBrits@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 08:01 AM
To: bt7@pppatch.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Pipe dreaming? (paint and interior)
In a message dated 07/12/2000 8:23:08 PM Central Daylight Time,
bt7@pppatch.com writes:
<< "Shipwrights Disease"? You mean there's a name for what I've got? >>
Actually, it's called the "Dominio Theory" guys.<G>
Cheers.........
Ed
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 08:59:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Pipe dreaming? (paint and interior)
Mike,
Having just completed the interior on my BN7 last year
- you can easily spend $2K+ doing it your self and I
was fortunate to have frequent business trips to
England which saved shipping and other costs. As you
put it together you just won't be satisfied with the
pits in the chrome e-brake, or the rusty fasteners, or
the dingy gauge trim rings....
The BN7 interior is one of the easier ones. I suspect
the BT7 is more costly. I would plan on telling your
wife it is a "good investment" and be sure NEVER to
add up the receipts and don't put it all on one "easy
to summarize" credit card. Pay a little in cash, a
little with checks, a little on your corporate card.
Have parts delivered to work. You get the idea.
Dean BN7
--- "jim t.p. ryan" <ryan@jimryan.com> wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> Your just talking about stripping and painting? No
> major body work, all the metal is there? I think
> you could get that done in this area (NH) for 5k. I
> have no idea about the interior, but that's just
> parts to be installed right? You'll do that
> yourself?
>
> Sincerely,
> Jim Ryan
> 64 BJ7
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: LarryRPH@aol.com
> Sent: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 20:08:14 EDT
> To: coop1@dnai.com
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Pipe dreaming? (paint and interior)
>
>
>
> Sorry, if you did all the work yourself you might
> be able to get it done
> for 5 K.
> No way if someone else doing all the work
>
> Larry Wysocki
> BN 6
> BJ 7 (just completed restoring)
>
>
>
>
>
>
___________________________________________________________________________
> Visit http://www.visto.com/info, your free web-based
> communications center.
> Visto.com. Life on the Dot.
>
__________________________________________________
Get Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 09:13:46 -0700
Subject: Re: front spring compression
Hi Alan,
I don't recall seeing anyone answer your question. I've never compressed
a Healey front spring but I think this is the general procedure. If I'm
wrong, someone will surely correct me or add additional information.
Use all-thread rods of sufficient length to accommodate the uncompressed
spring and use them instead of the 4 spring plate bolts. Tighten the
nuts on the all-thread rod in sequence to compress the spring. Remove
one of the threaded rods and replace with a spring plate bolt. Repeat
for the 3 remaining rods. Of course the "righter" way is to use a coil
spring compressor!
Regards,
John
Alan Hantke wrote:
>
> Now for a more basic question... how do you compress a front spring
> when the car is off of the ground. I'm told that you can get a couple
> of all-thread rods, but where do you place them, etc.
>
> Thanks,
> --Alan
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 12:54:59 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1/2 Flywheel Mod
CEWPlatt@aol.com wrote:
> Hello,
>
> Many people have mentioned lightening the flywheel as a good improvement.
> Does anyone have any specifics for a BN1/2? It looks like material can be
> removed from the engine side of the flywheel and also at the outside diameter
> on the tranny side. I do not foresee obtaining the weight reduction others
> have mentioned though without making additional drastic changes. Any thoughts
> or details on what others have done would be appreciated.
>
> Clay Platt
> 1954 BN1
We have lightened a few BN1/2 flywheels based upon the way the 100"S" one is
modified.
By machining off the outer annulus you can easily remove 6 - 7 lbs, reducing the
flywheel weight to around 38 lbs, however it is important to remember that
this
annulus is on the outer edge of the flywheel an therefore its removal has a
profound effect on the Moment of Inertia of the flywheel.
The customers that we have done this mod for report that the effect is a
dramatic
improvement.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 12:48:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Pipe dreaming? (paint and interior)
In a message dated 7/13/00 6:42:24 AM, ryan@jimryan.com writes:
<<
Your just talking about stripping and painting? No major body work, all the
metal is there? I think you could get that done in this area (NH) for 5k. I
have no idea about the interior, but that's just parts to be installed right?
You'll do that yourself? >>
One major suggestion is that you deliver the car to the body shop with
everything removed on the outside -- windshield, chrome, fender piping,
lights, etc., and the entire interior removed. That will save them a day's
work masking around all that stuff and cutting the electrical wires (which is
the typical body shop solution -- cut the wires then crimp them back together
when done). Of course, you'll get a better job of painting as a result.
Unless there is body work involved, 5K should be in the ball park for
stripping and painting. But it certainly won't stretch to cover interior and
if they find rust and/or bondo when they strip the paint, the costs will
escalate in a hurry.
Cheers and good luck
Gary
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 13:30:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Small Electric Cooling Fans
In a message dated 7/13/2000 04:10:01 Central Daylight Time,
gregbankin@primus.com.au writes:
<< NOT THE TEXAS KOOLER AGAIN................ >>
NO, STILL...........THEY WORK!
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 13:51:37 -0400
Subject: Re; Re; King pins & shackles
Thanks for your reply, Steve, but what about those shackles? Should there
be grease fittings on the later BJ 8?
Stephen
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 13:51:13 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1/2 Flywheel Mod
For 100 owners that are contemplating a lightened flywheel, consider bolting on
a 6 cylinder flywheel. It is dramatically lighter and if you use the one for a
BJ8, you can use the diaphragm clutch (use the BJ8 throw out bearing also) and
save wear a tear on the mechanical clutch linkage. The pedal pressure is less
and it saves more weight than cutting the old 100 flywheel. Just an idea......
Aloha
Perry
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 14:29:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Re; Re; King pins & shackles
"S.HUTCHINGS" wrote:
> Thanks for your reply, Steve, but what about those shackles? Should there
> be grease fittings on the later BJ 8?
> Stephen
No. Late BJ8s have all rubber bushes on the back and front of the rear
spring.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Don Gschwind" <DGSCHWIND at prodigy.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 15:33:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Re; Re; King pins & shackles
Hi, Stephen
My BJ8 has rubber bushings at the shackles. The Moss Catalogue
and the Victoria British Catalogue both show rubber bushings for the
BJ8, therefore no grease fittings. Interestingly, the BMC Workshop
Manual does not identify this, nor does the owners manual. They show
grease fittings. By the way, never grease rubber bushings, as they are
designed to be locked to the pin and spring eye by friction. If they
slip and rotate, they will fail. Good Luck, hope this helps.
DON
BJ8 Pandora
----- Original Message -----
From: S.HUTCHINGS <hutching@myna.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 1:51 PM
Subject: Re; Re; King pins & shackles
>
> Thanks for your reply, Steve, but what about those shackles? Should
there
> be grease fittings on the later BJ 8?
> Stephen
>
>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 15:52:31 -0400
Subject: William Craig
William,
Please contact me at your soonest.
Sorry to bomb.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 16:38:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Re; Re; King pins & shackles
Oops! I thought you had answered your own question when you said there were
no fittings on your car. The BJ7 has the grease fittings, but not the BJ8.
Cheers!
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: S.HUTCHINGS <hutching@myna.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, July 13, 2000 2:24 PM
Subject: Re; Re; King pins & shackles
>
>Thanks for your reply, Steve, but what about those shackles? Should there
>be grease fittings on the later BJ 8?
>Stephen
>
>
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 16:42:54 -0400
Subject: Re: SERVO
Ditto. The only problem I had was the foam packing for the leather seal on
the piston diaphragm was too thick and made the brakes hang up until I
shaved it down some. Having just read an article about that very problem,
I anticipated it when I got my kit. That was some time ago, though, so
maybe they fixed this problem since then. Installing the kit was easy
enough.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Schonscheck <schonny@y2consult.com>
To: Andy King <healey-100@hawaii.rr.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, July 13, 2000 10:18 AM
Subject: Re: SERVO
>
>I have overhauled mine using a Moss kit with no problems, simple job
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Andy King" <healey-100@hawaii.rr.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 2:07 AM
>Subject: Re: SERVO
>
>
>>
>> Hello R Kirk are you out there!
>>
>> I am going to try and overhaul the brake servo in the resurection of my
>BJ8
>> . I am told that it would be wiser to light my self on fire, and throw
>> myself into the street. So I would be very interested if you could
please
>> give your advise on the list, or at least send it on to me. If I were
wise
>I
>> would have saved up and purchased a finished Healey.
>>
>> Aloha Andy
>>
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 16:47:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Blue Smoke
White.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@slip.net>
To: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, July 13, 2000 2:00 AM
Subject: Re: Blue Smoke
>Anyone know what color smoke silicone brake fluid makes when burned?
>
>Purple?
>
>bs
>***********************************************************************
>Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
>San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
>`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
>***********************************************************************
From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:06:46 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1/2 Flywheel Mod
In a message dated 07/13/2000 11:29:21 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Healeyguy@aol.com writes:
<< For 100 owners that are contemplating a lightened flywheel, consider
bolting on a 6 cylinder flywheel. It is dramatically lighter and if you use
the one for a BJ8, you can use the diaphragm clutch (use the BJ8 throw out
bearing also) and save wear a tear on the mechanical clutch linkage. The
pedal pressure is less and it saves more weight than cutting the old 100
flywheel. Just an idea......
Aloha
Perry >>
Perry
You beat me to the punch, this is the best solution that I know of with one
major exception. It works very well with the BN2 or a BN1 with a real 4
speed gearbox, but to make it work at all with the 3 speed requires that
quite a bit of the bell housing must be ground/machined away for proper
clearance. I have the necessary parts gathering dust in my shop as I write.
I found out too late after talking to Denis Welch that this wasn't the best
solution since in his opinion grinding away the 3 speed bell housing would
weaken it too much. Any comments?
Cheers
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:50:40 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1/2 Flywheel Mod
Curt
You are absolutely correct. Sorry to any BN1 owners that started taking their
transmissions out in hopes of using a later flywheel in their car. :} I have a
BN2 and responded without considering the 3 speed guys. Oops! Back to work.....
Aloha
Perry
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:57:03 EDT
Subject: Re: West Coast Meet ( Rendezvous)
Listers
Who's headed to the Ocean Shores meet? Hope to see you there.
Aloha
Perry
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 18:02:48 -0400
Subject: Mostly for BJ8 owners
Hello, Healeyphiles!
The global BJ8 registry achieved a milestone a few days ago, when the
3,542nd BJ8 was added. The significance of this is that it represents a
full 20% of total original production. Since then, 18 more have joined the
list to bring today's total to 3,560.
What use is the registry to a typical BJ8 owner? Maybe nothing. But, the
current owner of HBJ8L/28578 should shortly be receiving some interesting
history about that car, the original documentation that came with it from
BMC and the dealer, and some photos of it from 1965. The original owner of
the car (who sold it in '71 but still had all that stuff) contacted me, and
I was able to get him together with the current owner because the car was
listed in the registry. A few months ago, something similar occurred when
the current owner of HBJ8L/37704 was able to get some pictures of his car
from the early '70s.
One never knows when opportunities like that will occur. But, the more cars
that are accounted for, the more frequently they can happen.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 18:06:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Electrical harness for a '59 3000 MK1 BN7 and etc....
In a message dated 7/13/00 8:37:48 AM, ConSanguis@aol.com writes:
<< and am considering an altanator to replace my generator. Any comments
appreciated. >>
One of the interesting sidelights of the news from the Round the World Rally
was the number of cars that failed or had problems in the early days due to
the brackets breaking or coming loose on the alternators they had substituted
for their generators. Either the alternator fell off, or it burned out due to
the fan belt being out of alignment. I guess the moral is, if you are going
to put on an alternator, be very particular about how the replacement bracket
is engineered and manufactured
Cheers
Gary
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2000 07:56:25 +0800
Subject: Re: Electrical harness for a '59 3000 MK1 BN7 and etc....
Jaret
The wiring diagram in my shop manual is correct. I have a BT7 # 12 built
April 1959. I had to use the wiring diagram for the 100-6 though.
Can't help you with the installation, I did mine with nothing in the car.
Can't believe it will be that hard. Before I started I sorted out the
harness so I knew where it was going and sorted out all the wire ends from
the wiring diagram and the colour coding. I then tagged the ends using
masking tape. One of the biggest hassles was getting the main harness
through the rubber grommet on the firewall. You just have to start pushing
through the biggest items first such as the panel light holders. (Install
the wires through the firewall grommet while you are sitting on the garage
floor in some comfort and then install the cable through the firewall and
them install the grommet). The grommet then holds the harness in roughly the
correct position and you can start laying out the harness in the engine bay.
Hope some of this helps.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in resto
----- Original Message -----
From: <ConSanguis@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 11:43 PM
Subject: Electrical harness for a '59 3000 MK1 BN7 and etc....
>
> I am planning to put a new Electrical harness on my '59 3000 MK1 BN7.
> Alternatively, I am looking for a used Electrical harness for my '59 3000
MK1
> BN7, if anyone has one! I would appreciate some advice as to the pitfalls
I
> may encounter before I begin. I am not eager to repeat the slave cylinder
> removal scenario, although it vastly improved my usage of profane language
> (directed toward mostly English engineers).
>
> I have blown up a copy of the Electrical harness for a '59 3000 MK1
BN7
> and gone blind cloring it up with my coloered pencils. Is the Diagram in
the
> shop manual correct? By the way I am already converted over to a 12V
system
> and am considering an altanator to replace my generator. Any comments
> appreciated.
>
> Jaret C. Hill
> Louiaville, Kentucky
>
>
From JustBrits at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 20:03:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Re; Re; King pins & shackles
In a message dated 07/13/2000 3:50:12 PM Central Daylight Time,
byers@cconnect.net writes:
<< The BJ7 has the grease fittings,>>
Yep.
<< but not the BJ8. >>
"Hopefully" not, Steve!!
Ed
From BGAHC at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 20:49:08 EDT
Subject: Conclave Directions
I copied bob Haskell but if anyone from Indy could help, how about some
directions to the host hotel for Conclave?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 20:51:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Electrical harness for a '59 3000 MK1 BN7 and etc....
All Listers
Both of the Healeys in Team Healey ATW had alternators and used brackets by
Denis Welch.
The bracket replaces the forward tappet plate and is a solid casting. No
problems at all - the alignment is fine and you avoid breakage problems.
Although I prefer the "Speed up the Generator with a Smaller Shiv" solution
i.e. I still have my Generator, if I were to switch that's the way I would go.
I don't know the price and have no finan........ etc.
DickB
'62 BT7 TriCarb
---- you wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 7/13/00 8:37:48 AM, ConSanguis@aol.com writes:
>
> << and am considering an altanator to replace my generator. Any comments
> appreciated. >>
>
> One of the interesting sidelights of the news from the Round the World Rally
> was the number of cars that failed or had problems in the early days due to
> the brackets breaking or coming loose on the alternators they had substituted
> for their generators. Either the alternator fell off, or it burned out due to
> the fan belt being out of alignment. I guess the moral is, if you are going
> to put on an alternator, be very particular about how the replacement bracket
> is engineered and manufactured
> Cheers
> Gary
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 21:02:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Pipe dreaming? (paint and interior)
In a message dated 7/13/00 1:27:36 PM, Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<<Unless there is body work involved, 5K should be in the ball park for
stripping and painting. But it certainly won't stretch to cover interior and
if they find rust and/or bondo when they strip the paint, the costs will
escalate in a hurry.>>
And Mike, unless it's a pristine Arizona or Nevada car, they almost always
find rust and/or bondo under there! Be careful about getting a body shop to
commit to a price before the paint's been stripped. Some shops will bring
the job in at the price they quoted before the paint is off, but they'll
shortcut the body and rust repair to make their profit. It will look great
for a year or two, then the rust will start coming back.
Stripping paint isn't too complicated, just labor intensive. I've had good
luck with some of the spray-on, scrape-off strippers. You might save some
money and headaches by stripping it yourself before getting the estimate for
body work and paint. Of course, at that point you're commited to the
project, but at least you'll have a good idea what's under that shiny paint!
Happy Healeying,
Rick
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 21:03:46 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 Transmission Dilemma
Regarding the different part numbers 1B3694 and 1B3693 :
I agree that many parts are different, often sequential numbers when the part is
included in a assembly, however I have never seen the same part with a
different
part number stamped on it. If the laygear is partt number XYZ and it is stamped
so then when the bearings are installed they don't grind off the XYZ and restamp
it UVW. This doesn't seem logical.
I could be wrong but I would bet that here is some difference between the two
parts resulting in the different part number.
It may be just a material difference but better to check carefully before making
an expensive mistake.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
CNAArndt@aol.com wrote:
> Mike and Allen
>
> I've been following this thread with interest and have what I believe is the
> answer to your dilemma. According to my expert sources who have seen this
> happen many times before with BMC cast parts, very often the number cast on
> the part is for some strange reason (don't ask me why) one digit off of the
> listed part number in the parts book, specifically e.g. 1B 3694 is the same
> part as 1B 3693 (laygear). I described this very example to my expert and he
> is 99% sure that they are identical parts. This should mean that it would
> correspond to 1B 3697 (3rd speed mainshaft gear with adapter).
>
> However this brings up another important point for Allen, specifically what
> is the gearbox number on your transmission? My point is that from gearbox
> number 5146 and subsequent a modified third speed gear, incorporating larger
> and stronger gear teeth was fitted, and the 1st motion shaft and the laygear
> were modified to suit the new third gear. This was described in an Austin
> Service Journal bulletin and listed as part number 58G 341 (Third Speed
> Mainshaft Gear), which incorporated:
>
> To further clarify, the 1st Motion shaft with cone and adapter, Austin Part
> Number 1B 3549 was replaced by 1B 3695. 3rd Speed mainshaft gear with
> cone and adapter, 1B 3625 was replaced by 1B 3697 and the Laygear with
> bushes, Austin Part Number 1B 3481 was replaced by 1B 3693.
>
> Bottom line is that your gearbox probably is #5146 or later (higher) or if it
> is #5145 or earlier it was fitted at some time during its life with the later
> strengthened gears.
>
> I hope that I haven't confused those of you who even care about such things
> and please let me know what you find.
>
> Cheers
>
> Curt Arndt
> Carlsbad, CA with gearbox #7633 and spare #4749.
From "Tim Moran" <timoran at ticnet.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 20:05:05 -0500
Subject: The Texas Cooler
7-14-2000
Well Guys,
Now that the Texas Cooler is a "HOT !" topic of
conversation again, take a minute and go to the
North Texas Austin Healey Club Web Site
(www.ntahc.austin1.com)
and see for yourself what the fuss is all about.
See the "Texas Cooler" for yourself.
DON'T listen to those who don't have one....
YOU decide if it is right for YOUR Healey.
Getting one for YOUR car is a smart buy.
That is www.NTAHC.austin1.com
Tim Moran
From RobertH148 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 21:23:39 EDT
Subject: Healey Fuel Injection
Here is some information on fuel injecting a Healey.
Split Second had equipment to inject the Healey. They use Datsun 240Z stuff.
http://splitsecond.com
contact Lenz Nest at 949-250-1797 for modified SU housings for injection
bodies.
This information comes from Udo Putzke. He can be reached at:
putzkes@worldnet.att.net
He also has a great bilstein shock suspension system.
Bob Humphreys
From "Tim Moran" <timoran at ticnet.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 20:22:38 -0500
Subject: The Texas Cooler
7-14-2000
Well Guys, Here we go again........
Now that the Texas Cooler is again THE "HOT !"
topic of conversation, take a minute and go to the
North Texas Austin Healey Club Web Site
(www.ntahc.austin1.com)
and see what all the fuss is about.
See the "Texas Cooler" for yourself.
DON'T listen to those who don't have one....
YOU decide if it is right for YOUR Healey.
Getting one for YOUR car is a smart buy.
That is www.NTAHC.austin1.com
Tim Moran
From BGAHC at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 21:30:38 EDT
Subject: Cheap Signs......
Working on a project tonight that I thought others might be interested in.
For the "Wander Indiana / Conclave 2000 Tour" event I wanted a version of a
classic rally participant sign to put on the cars while traveling and be a
souvenir of the event. For those of you who are involved with running
regional events you know how expensive it can be to get small runs of signs
printed so here is an option.
Since our club is cheaper than most I had a limited budget. I Talked a Print
Shop owner/Healey owner out of Bumper sticker material on 8 1/2 x 11 sheets.
I could not find any at a computer store and he explained that the material
is cheap enough but when it was sold for home use people used it in Laser
Printers and copiers and the heat loosened the adhesive and jammed the
machines.
I then went to a sign company and bought quality magnetic sign material in
white. That was expensive, $4 per square foot.
I designed a graphic in Publisher and printed it on the Bumper sticker
material using my computers inkjet printer. I used several colors and
graphics and they all printed well. Load each sheet one at a time. inspect
the backside first to make sure none of the adhesive is showing that could
cause it to get caught in the printer. (Printers Tip) I then mounted a test
sticker on the magnetic stock. I soon learned the image would smear as I
handled it. So first I painted my stickers with a clear coat of lacquer which
sealed the ink. (I had planned on doing that as a final step after mounting)
Mounted the painted stickers on the magnetic stock. Cut them out with
scissors and they look great! Tested them in simulated rain (kitchen sink)
and no runs or color changes.
I had tried the magnetic stock material that office supply stores sell that
works in your printer but I found the magnet was not strong enough to stick
to a car. It worked on a test on my old truck but as soon as it hit the
finely polished surfaces of the Healey it slid right off! So we made club
logo refrigerator magnets with that material.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 18:47:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Mostly for BJ8 owners
Steve your efforts are certainly appreciated. Maybe some day history will
turn up something on 31880. Thanks again Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 4:02 PM
Subject: Mostly for BJ8 owners
>
> Hello, Healeyphiles!
>
> The global BJ8 registry achieved a milestone a few days ago, when the
> 3,542nd BJ8 was added. The significance of this is that it represents a
> full 20% of total original production. Since then, 18 more have joined
the
> list to bring today's total to 3,560.
>
> What use is the registry to a typical BJ8 owner? Maybe nothing. But, the
> current owner of HBJ8L/28578 should shortly be receiving some interesting
> history about that car, the original documentation that came with it from
> BMC and the dealer, and some photos of it from 1965. The original owner
of
> the car (who sold it in '71 but still had all that stuff) contacted me,
and
> I was able to get him together with the current owner because the car was
> listed in the registry. A few months ago, something similar occurred
when
> the current owner of HBJ8L/37704 was able to get some pictures of his car
> from the early '70s.
>
> One never knows when opportunities like that will occur. But, the more
cars
> that are accounted for, the more frequently they can happen.
>
> Happy Healeying!
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>
>
>
From Bill Holt <lbcholt at one.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 22:49:52 -0400
Subject: Re: The Texas Cooler
Oh no! Not again! I can see it coming now, yet another thrilling debate
about the merits of the Texas Cooler!
Bill Holt
Ft. Mitchell, KY
At 10:13 PM 7/13/00 -0400, Tim Moran wrote:
>
>7-14-2000
>
>Well Guys,
>
>Now that the Texas Cooler is a "HOT !" topic of
>conversation again, take a minute and go to the
>North Texas Austin Healey Club Web Site
>
>(www.ntahc.austin1.com)
>
>and see for yourself what the fuss is all about.
>
>See the "Texas Cooler" for yourself.
>DON'T listen to those who don't have one....
>YOU decide if it is right for YOUR Healey.
>
>Getting one for YOUR car is a smart buy.
>
>That is www.NTAHC.austin1.com
>
>Tim Moran
>
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at slip.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 20:10:19 -0700
Subject: Diff. gearing vs. O/D
Hi all,
All the talk about the higher-geared rear end got me to thinking: would
different gearing in
the O/D be a better solution? I seem to recall where the A-type O/D can be
(has been?)
fitted with different sun and planetary gears to change the RPM reduction
percentage.
I know modifying an O/D would be more work, but you'd get the reduced RPM on
the
highway without changing the around-town drivability.
Anyone tried this?
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 00:48:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Diff. gearing vs. O/D
In a message dated 7/13/00 8:20:34 PM, bspidell@slip.net wrote:
<<
Hi all,
All the talk about the higher-geared rear end got me to thinking: would
different gearing in
the O/D be a better solution? I seem to recall where the A-type O/D can be
(has been?)
fitted with different sun and planetary gears to change the RPM reduction
percentage.
I know modifying an O/D would be more work, but you'd get the reduced RPM on
the
highway without changing the around-town drivability.
Anyone tried this?
Bob>>
The Big Healeys had two different overdrives fitted during the production.
The 100-Six cars had a 28% whereas later cars got a 22%. You can easily swap
to the earlier overdrive and get a little reduction in revs at the top end.
The big shift in the rear end comes from the change from the almost useless
first gear. with the higher rear end gearing, first gear can be used longer.
It's not reasl quick off the line, but a Healey isn't much of a drag racer.
My 100-Six has a 28% overdrive and also the 3.54. It'll still burn some
rubber, and it's great on the highway. Around town driving hasn't changed
much except that I no longer use my second gear as first.
Rick
San Diego
From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 00:07:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Conclave Directions
Jim,
Let me try. If nothing else, my descriptions should allow you to find
your way on a map. I may be the rallyemaster, but that doesn't mean I
know how to read a map or give directions. So please double check my
directions against a map. No sense in getting anyone mad before the
rallye even begins.:)
Conclave is based at the Holidome (Holiday Inn). The hotel at the
I-465/Michigan Road interchange. I-465 is the loop around Indy. The
Michigan Road exit is number 27 and is on the north west side of Indy.
As with most (midwest) interstates, the exit number is the mileage from
a reference point; in this case, the I-465 and I-65 interchange on the
south side. I-465 is 54 miles around and the exit numbers are numbered
clockwise.
>From Chicago (I-65)
Continue past the three Lebanon exits and the exits for Whitestown &
Brownsburg (exit 133) and Zionsville (exit 130). Take I-465 East at exit
129. This runs into the I-465 loop proper after 3.6 miles. Continue on
I-465 East. The next exit is the one you want (Exit 27, Michigan Road,
SR-421).
>From Champaign-Urbana (I-74)
At exit 39, take SR-32 East. After 17 miles you should be in Lebanon
and at I-65. You can either take I-65 South as discussed for traveling
from Chicago or you can take 32 through Lebanon to SR-421 (about 11
miles). Take 421 South about 9 miles to the Holidome.
>From St. Louis (I-70)
Simplest route is to take I-70 East to exit 73. This is I-465. Take
I-465 North to exit 27 (about 18 miles).
"Senic route" - at exit 66 (Brownsburg) take SR-267 North. After you
drive through Fayette (about 5.5 miles) take a right on 650N. There
should be a sign indicating that Zionsville is this-a-way. This will
turn into SR-334 at Indianapolis Rd. Continue along 334 East through
Zionsville (about 6.6 miles) to I-421. Take 421 South, past the I-465
interchange (about 2.5 miles). The hotel is on the left.
>From Louisville (I-65)
At exit 106, take I-465 West. Exit 27 is 27 miles up the road.
Or if you're feeling like taking a drive in the country from Story,
Indiana:
Take SR-135 North through Nashville to Morgantown. Continue East on 135
to Trafalgar where 135 swings North. In Bargersville, take SR-144 in a
northesterly direction (Don't know if 144 will be marked North or West,
guessing West). In Morgantown, pickup SR-267 North. Take 267 through
Plainfield, Avon, Brownsburg, and Fayette. About a mile north of the
center of Fayette, take a right on 650N. There should be a sign
indicating that Zionsville is this-a-way. This will turn into SR-334 at
Indianapolis Rd. Continue along 334 East through Zionsville (about 6.6
miles) to I-421. Take 421 South, past the I-465 interchange (about 2.5
miles). The hotel is on the left.
>From Cincy (I-74)
At exit 94, take I-465 SOUTH. You'll take I-465 around the south and
west sides to exit 27 (about 32 miles). This is longer, mileage wise,
than going up on the east and across the north side of I-465, but there
is a lot of construction on I-465 on the east side.
>From Richmond (I-70)
You're going to love this one....
The shortest route is to take I-465 North at exit 90, just past Post
Road. It's only 17 miles to the Holidome at exit 27. There's a lot of
construction (single lane) along I-465 and traffic is can be quite
heavy/slow.
Another alternative (but not great), is to take I-70 to I-65 North.
I-65 is a mess (one lane) from 29th Street til past the I-465
interchange. Several of the interchanges along I-65 are closed. If you
go this route, take I-465 North at exit 123. The hotel is about 7 miles
further.
To miss the construction, take I-70 through Indy to exit 75, Airport
Expressway. Drive past the exits for Lynhurst and Executive Drive.
Take the next exit which is I-465 North. The hotel is at exit 27,
roughly 16 miles along I-465.
>From Fort Wayne (I-69)
I-69 ends at I-465. Take I-465 West to Exit 27 (about 10 miles). I
think there may be some construction on I-69 near Indy, but I'm not
sure.
If you want, take SR-38 West at exit 19. West of Clarksville, SR-38
merges with SR-32. Stay on SR-32 through Noblesville, Westfield,
Eagleton, and Jolietville. About 2.9 miles from Jolietville is SR-421.
Take SR-421 South about 9 miles to the hotel.
>From Kokomo (I-31)
There are lane restrictions on I-31 for resurfacing, between 116th
Street and I-465. If you drive down to I-465, take 465 West. Exit 27
is next exit (about 3.6 miles). Take Michigan Road South to the hotel.
Alternately, you can jog west before getting to I-465. In Westfield,
I-31 intersects SR-32. This is about 8.8 miles North of I-465. Take
SR-32 West about 8 miles to I-421 (a 4 way stop). Take I-421 South to
the hotel (about 9 miles).
Or,you can take 116th Street west to I-421. This about 4 miles. Take
421 South and drive past the I-465 interchange (about 2.5 miles). The
Holidome will be on your left.
BGAHC@aol.com wrote:
>
> I copied bob Haskell but if anyone from Indy could help, how about some
> directions to the host hotel for Conclave?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> 1957 BN4 Rally Car
> 1966 BJ8
--
Bob Haskell
'60 AH BT-7 MkI
'64 Mini Cooper S RHD
'80 MGB LE
bhaskell@iquest.net
SOL Healey (URL http://www.team.net/www/healey) web apprentice
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 22:21:05 -0700
Subject: Re: The Texas Cooler
I never started it this time boys... :~) ....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Holt" <lbcholt@one.net>
To: "Tim Moran" <timoran@ticnet.com>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 7:49 PM
Subject: Re: The Texas Cooler
>
> Oh no! Not again! I can see it coming now, yet another thrilling debate
> about the merits of the Texas Cooler!
>
> Bill Holt
> Ft. Mitchell, KY
>
> At 10:13 PM 7/13/00 -0400, Tim Moran wrote:
> >
> >7-14-2000
> >
> >Well Guys,
> >
> >Now that the Texas Cooler is a "HOT !" topic of
> >conversation again, take a minute and go to the
> >North Texas Austin Healey Club Web Site
> >
> >(www.ntahc.austin1.com)
> >
> >and see for yourself what the fuss is all about.
> >
> >See the "Texas Cooler" for yourself.
> >DON'T listen to those who don't have one....
> >YOU decide if it is right for YOUR Healey.
> >
> >Getting one for YOUR car is a smart buy.
> >
> >That is www.NTAHC.austin1.com
> >
> >Tim Moran
> >
>
From "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind at prodigy.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 02:05:21 -0400
Subject: Brake Bleeding
Hi, Listers
Some time ago there was a thread on brake bleeding devices.
Unfortunately, I can't find it. Would someone suggest what "bleeders"
are available, and perhaps which works best, please?
I tried the "archives" but couldn't find it. I used:
www.listquest.com/lg/search.html?in=healeys
Somehow I couldn't find it, which is strange 'cause I've had
it before. Thanks
DON
BJ8 Pandora
From "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind at prodigy.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 02:13:17 -0400
Subject: Blue Smoke Cont.
Hi, Listers.
Thanks for the suggestions of what my cars smoke is from. You
were correct, it appears to be the booster. With the vacuum
disconnected from the booster, there is no smoke. When I reconnect the
vacuum, there is smoke, lots of it.
Someone asked what the color of brake fluid smoke is, and the
Castrol LMA in my car was nearly white, with a touch of blue to it.
Unlike the white from water/coolant, this stuff hangs in the air and
doesn't dissipate very rapidly. It just sorta hangs there.
Would anyone suggest who might be a good company to rebuild
the booster for me? Thanks,
DON
BJ8 Pandora
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 02:11:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Cheap Signs......
Jim
Better check your doors for Bondo.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Working on a project tonight that I thought others might be interested in.
> For the "Wander Indiana / Conclave 2000 Tour" event I wanted a version of a
> classic rally participant sign to put on the cars while traveling and be a
> souvenir of the event. For those of you who are involved with running
> regional events you know how expensive it can be to get small runs of signs
> printed so here is an option.
>
> Since our club is cheaper than most I had a limited budget. I Talked a Print
> Shop owner/Healey owner out of Bumper sticker material on 8 1/2 x 11 sheets.
> I could not find any at a computer store and he explained that the material
> is cheap enough but when it was sold for home use people used it in Laser
> Printers and copiers and the heat loosened the adhesive and jammed the
> machines.
>
> I then went to a sign company and bought quality magnetic sign material in
> white. That was expensive, $4 per square foot.
>
> I designed a graphic in Publisher and printed it on the Bumper sticker
> material using my computers inkjet printer. I used several colors and
> graphics and they all printed well. Load each sheet one at a time. inspect
> the backside first to make sure none of the adhesive is showing that could
> cause it to get caught in the printer. (Printers Tip) I then mounted a test
> sticker on the magnetic stock. I soon learned the image would smear as I
> handled it. So first I painted my stickers with a clear coat of lacquer which
> sealed the ink. (I had planned on doing that as a final step after mounting)
>
> Mounted the painted stickers on the magnetic stock. Cut them out with
> scissors and they look great! Tested them in simulated rain (kitchen sink)
> and no runs or color changes.
>
> I had tried the magnetic stock material that office supply stores sell that
> works in your printer but I found the magnet was not strong enough to stick
> to a car. It worked on a test on my old truck but as soon as it hit the
> finely polished surfaces of the Healey it slid right off! So we made club
> logo refrigerator magnets with that material.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> 1957 BN4 Rally Car
> 1966 BJ8
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 02:29:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: No LBC Content - but Funny
A vampire bat came flapping in from the night covered in fresh blood and
parked himself on the ceiling of
the cave to get some sleep. Pretty soon all
the other bats smelled the blood
and began hassling him about where he got
it. He told them to give it up and
let him get some sleep, but they persisted
until he finally gave in.
"OK, follow me," he said and flew
out of the cave with hundreds of
bats
behind him.
Down through a valley they went,
across a river and into a forest of trees.
Finally he slowed down and all the
other bats excitedly milled around him.
"Now, do you see that tree over
there?" he asked.
"YES,YES,YES!!" the bats all
screamed in a frenzy.
"Good!" said the first bat,
"Because I didn't!"
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Neil Cotty" <neilc at apphosting.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 16:33:46 +1000
Subject: Re: Brake Bleeding
Don,
I've always used a Gunson Ezibleed. Works perfectly, cheap, and very simple
to use. Essentially just a rubber tube with a one way valve that only lets
fluid escape when you press down on the pedal. When you hook it up to the
nipple, open the bleed screw, pump the pedal until you don't see any air
bubbles in the escaping fluid, then lock the bleed screw up again with the
pedal to the floor (requires a helper of course!). Just watch the master
cylinder fluid level, top up when necessary, do the wheels in the order
specified in the workshop manual and she'll be right mate.
Cheers,
Neil
BN2/CGT/BGT/A
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 02:39:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Around The World Rally
I see that the ATW Rally is in the Atlas Mountains (Morocco) and the
temperature IN THE SHADE is 54 degrees Celsius - that's nearly 130F.
The two Healey BT7s have Texas Coolers - but what about the Driver and
Navigator, and the Dyke-Price car has a Hardtop.
DickB
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 04:42:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Florida Bugeye Search
Anyone know of a good-to-excellent Bugeye for sale in Florida? Prefer
private party sale; no dealers, please. Thanks.
Cheers,
Reid
_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 14:52:56 +0200
Subject: RE: Pipe dreaming? (paint and interior)
If you are going to strip the paint yourself, I believe the aircraft
stripper( blue can) is one of the better one's on the market, it is most
effective when used according to the directions with no deviation. It is
quite nasty stuff so protective measures are essential.
-----Original Message-----
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com [mailto:HealeyRic2@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 9:02 PM
To: Editorgary@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Pipe dreaming? (paint and interior)
In a message dated 7/13/00 1:27:36 PM, Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<<Unless there is body work involved, 5K should be in the ball park for
stripping and painting. But it certainly won't stretch to cover interior
and
if they find rust and/or bondo when they strip the paint, the costs will
escalate in a hurry.>>
And Mike, unless it's a pristine Arizona or Nevada car, they almost always
find rust and/or bondo under there! Be careful about getting a body shop to
commit to a price before the paint's been stripped. Some shops will bring
the job in at the price they quoted before the paint is off, but they'll
shortcut the body and rust repair to make their profit. It will look great
for a year or two, then the rust will start coming back.
Stripping paint isn't too complicated, just labor intensive. I've had good
luck with some of the spray-on, scrape-off strippers. You might save some
money and headaches by stripping it yourself before getting the estimate for
body work and paint. Of course, at that point you're commited to the
project, but at least you'll have a good idea what's under that shiny paint!
Happy Healeying,
Rick
From Sean Hince <sean.hince at audiomotion.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 14:24:25 +0100
Subject: I'm looking for.....
A Healey 3000, or failing that any Healey. I'm Moving to USA from Britain
in August, and I'll be in North Carolina thereafter. Anything will be
considered, but preferably something which runs. Just contact me off list
if you can help.
Thanks
Sean
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 09:50:57 -0700
Subject: Re: Electrical harness for a '59 3000 MK1 BN7 and etc....
Jaret: IMHO you should consider replacing the harness not purchase a used one.
I
have had good success with British wiring they are some where around Chicago.
Someone on the list will have their address. When you say you have converted to
a 12 V system, I assume you mean changed to negative ground ?. Regarding the
electrical diagram, that is for a positive ground car with a generator. I have
had no problems following that diagram for my cars(which are all positive
ground. Others on the list are more suited to discuss the differences. It
hope
this helps. EDS
ConSanguis@aol.com wrote:
> I am planning to put a new Electrical harness on my '59 3000 MK1 BN7.
> Alternatively, I am looking for a used Electrical harness for my '59 3000 MK1
> BN7, if anyone has one! I would appreciate some advice as to the pitfalls I
> may encounter before I begin. I am not eager to repeat the slave cylinder
> removal scenario, although it vastly improved my usage of profane language
> (directed toward mostly English engineers).
>
> I have blown up a copy of the Electrical harness for a '59 3000 MK1 BN7
> and gone blind cloring it up with my coloered pencils. Is the Diagram in the
> shop manual correct? By the way I am already converted over to a 12V system
> and am considering an altanator to replace my generator. Any comments
> appreciated.
>
> Jaret C. Hill
> Louiaville, Kentucky
--
Edward D. Santoro, M.S.
Monitoring Coordinator
Delaware River Basin Commission
25 State Police Drive
West Trenton, NJ
08628
Tel:609 883-9500 ext 268
Fax:609 883-9522
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 10:21:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Aluminum corrosion after cleaning
Glen
As far as I know you're asking for the impossible. BUT, having said that, clean
it with Flitz, Simichrome or Mother's Aluminum Cleaner and then give it a good
thick coat of wax and try not to rub the wax all off. Aluminum is very reactive
with oxygen and the white coating - aluminum oxide - is actually a protective
coating, i.,e, once it forms it arrests further corrosion.
My deceased Daimler SP250 had big polished aluminum valve covers and due to the
corrosive atmosphere under the bonnet I used to polish them every 2-3 weeks.
Wax would vaporize off.
You might try some clear plastic or clear coat acrylic paint on a piece or two
and see how you like it - you know that's what wheel manufacturers put on their
products. But you also know that when the clear coat cracks or gets a pore in
it the corrosion creeps in and the only "fix" is to strip the wheels and
respray.
Good luck
DickB
---- you wrote:
> Anyone know of a good way to keep aluminum from getting that white corrosion
> on it after being cleaned up? I'd prefer something you can just wipe on to
> the metal rather than a hard, lacquer-like coating.
>
> From: Glen Wilson @ Pennsylvania, USA
> Email: rstca@hemmings.com
> Rover Saloon Touring Club of America
> Website: http://clubs.hemmings.com/rovercar/rstca.html
>
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 10:40:02 -0400
Subject: Re; King pins, shackles, and thanks
Thanks to Mike Salter and Steve Byers for the spring shackle
info....reassurance, really.
I remember Rich Chrysler had a story, recently, about something on a
sprite's brakes that looked
original, but turned out not to be.
So....never assume, just ask the list!
Cheers, Stephen
PS Thanks for the photo, Steve
From ccruz at tribune.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 09:34:00 -0500
Subject: Electrical harness for a '59 3000 MK1 BN7 - REALLY LONG
Jaret,
I installed a new harness in my '60 BN7 about two weekends ago. Piece
of cake. For the $300 +/- for a new harness I recommend starting with
something new especially if a used harness is anything like the one I
took off my car. I bought mine directly from British Wiring (708)
481-9050. There are others that can get the same product and save you
a few bucks. You can try Ed at JustBrits at (630) 325-6113. The
harness was great. The color coded wires all match up with the
schematic with the exception of one.
The schematic in the shop manual is good - just small. Visit Kinkos
and blow it up, it's worth the trip. The following is the advice I
was given by the collective wisdom on this list that really paid off.
1 - layout the new harness on the floor next to the car. The harness
comes in seven pieces. Identify and label each connection point on
each section. I used color coded file folder labels folded in half to
group each connection point. Using the same color marker, I made an
indication on the schematic as a reference point to be used during
installation. I'm confident the 1.5 - 2 hours of planning here saved
at least 10 during the actual install.
2 - Get your car up on ramps and stands or a lift Then disconnect the
battery.
3 - Start at the rear, with the tail/brake light harness. Working
from right to left. Don't worry about making the connections to the
light assemblies yet. Cut and remove the old harness one section at
a time and just route the new harness using the original as a guide.
Take each clamp, ground, connection one at a time. Replace/reuse the
same clamps. You may just want to order a handful of each clamp just
in case any of the old ones need replacing. Also be sure to order
enough bullet connectors, about 25 should do.
Connect the rear harness to the main harness that runs under the car.
Cap or tape off the two long wires if you don't have a battery cut-off
switch. Route and connect/fasten the harness to the left rail and
work your way up to the fire wall. Drop a line from the bonnet
opening to the floor to help fish the harness up the fire wall to the
top side. There is one clamp between the transmission tunnel and the
fire wall which I was unable to access, remove and reapply. (Shhhh!
don't tell the concours judges). Pretty straight forward to this
point.
4 - The engine harness is big, mean-looking and intimidating. Step 1
will
spare the English engineers' ears from your profane language. Lay out
the
new harness on top of the engine. At this point I took the large
collection of wires that route through the fire wall and under the dash
and wrapped them in aluminum foil to prevent the loom from collecting
and
grease, oil, dirt, etc... Make sure this clump lines up with the hole
in
the firewall.
Take the section that routes along the RHS of the firewall and along
the
RHS of the engine bay. Start at the front of the car making the
connections and working your way back toward the firewall. Beware, the
pigtail connection from the coil to the distributor was short on my new
harness. You may have to move things around a bit or replace with a
longer pigtail. Again, cut and remove the old harness one section at
a
time and just route the new harness using the original as a guide.
Take
each clamp, ground, connection one at a time. Replace/reuse the same
clamps.
When you reach the large aluminum ball, this is a good end to day one!
OK, get some help on this next piece. Cut the old harness going
through
the firewall and pull the old harness down and out of the way under the
dash. With one person in the car and one under the bonnet, route the
large collection of gage wires (remove the foil) through the firewall.
Take your time, it's a bit awkward but can be accomplished in a few
minutes. Once through just let them hang under the dash for now.
Thank
your help and buy them breakfast.
Back in the engine bay, route the harness along the LHS of the firewall
and
along the LHS of the bay. This side of the harness is longer because
it
also routes along the front of the car connecting the headlamps &
driving
lights. The routing is also more difficult on this side compared to
the
other. Take your time, doing one connection at a time. Connect the
bay
harness to the main harness which you fished up from underneath the
car.
Once the LHS is done route the front of the car, connecting the two
horn
and two headlamp pigtails, route to the driving/turn signal lamp
assemblies
and connect later.
Great time for a couple of beers and call it a good day.
5 - Lower the car off the ramps and stands (or lift). Remove your
seats and seat frames. Get a nice thick blanket to lay on the floor
of the cockpit. Take a nice comfy pillow and stick it up in the
driver's side foot well. This is a good time to replace the gage
light bulbs with new ones. A good half day is spent under here - use
the facilities accordingly. Now make sure no one is looking, as to
not embarrass yourself or your neighbors (if the garage door is
open). Contort your body so that your lying on your back on the
floor of your cockpit with your head in the foot well looking up to
the underside of the dash and your feet resting on the rear shroud.
Snip off the old harness leaving a couple of inches of the old
harness wires at their connection points. Start from your oil/temp
gage and work your way toward your left (the car's right). Do one
gage at a time and don't forget the grounds.
Almost there. With that done (don't install your interior yet). Solder
the new bullet connectors to the hanging wires and apply to the four
lamp assemblies.
6 - Cross yourself like a good Catholic (if you're not one, it can't
hurt). Genuflect (bow) in front of the car's grill and say, "I'm not
worthy" three time kissing the grill after each chant.
7 - Reconnect the battery. Turn the key and fire "her" up. Check to
make
sure everything works (excluding OD - remember nothing to sit on).
Trouble
shoot anything not working. Re-install your interior and take it for a
drive. Bring the cell phone just in case. Now test the OD.
All in all, it took about 22 hours. I hope this helps
Legal Mumbo Jumbo: Any references to any persons and/or business do
not
constitute an endorsement of any kind. Representations made do not
guarantee similar outcomes, yadda, yadda, yadda and blah, blah blah...
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
'60 AH 3K BN7
-------------------------------------------------------------------
I am planning to put a new Electrical harness on my '59 3000 MK1 BN7.
Alternatively, I am looking for a used Electrical harness for my '59
3000 MK1 BN7, if anyone has one! I would appreciate some advice as to
the pitfalls I may encounter before I begin. I am not eager to repeat
the slave cylinder removal scenario, although it vastly improved my
usage of profane language (directed toward mostly English engineers).
I have blown up a copy of the Electrical harness for a '59 3000 MK1
BN7 and gone blind cloring it up with my coloered pencils. Is the
Diagram in the shop manual correct? By the way I am already converted
over to a 12V system and am considering an altanator to replace my
generator. Any comments appreciated.
Jaret C. Hill
Louiaville, Kentucky
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 10:42:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Electrical harness for a '59 3000 MK1 BN7 and etc....
British Wiring Inc. (Ed and Leslie Cehelnik);
20449 Ithaca, Olympia Fields, IL 60461;
708-481-8050 (Phone and Fax)
Dick B
---- you wrote:
>
> Jaret: IMHO you should consider replacing the harness not purchase a used
>one. I
> have had good success with British wiring they are some where around Chicago.
> Someone on the list will have their address. When you say you have converted
>to
> a 12 V system, I assume you mean changed to negative ground ?. Regarding the
> electrical diagram, that is for a positive ground car with a generator. I have
> had no problems following that diagram for my cars(which are all positive
> ground. Others on the list are more suited to discuss the differences. It
>hope
> this helps. EDS
>
> ConSanguis@aol.com wrote:
>
> > I am planning to put a new Electrical harness on my '59 3000 MK1 BN7.
> > Alternatively, I am looking for a used Electrical harness for my '59 3000
>MK1
> > BN7, if anyone has one! I would appreciate some advice as to the pitfalls I
> > may encounter before I begin. I am not eager to repeat the slave cylinder
> > removal scenario, although it vastly improved my usage of profane language
> > (directed toward mostly English engineers).
> >
> > I have blown up a copy of the Electrical harness for a '59 3000 MK1 BN7
> > and gone blind cloring it up with my coloered pencils. Is the Diagram in
>the
> > shop manual correct? By the way I am already converted over to a 12V system
> > and am considering an altanator to replace my generator. Any comments
> > appreciated.
> >
> > Jaret C. Hill
> > Louiaville, Kentucky
>
> --
> Edward D. Santoro, M.S.
> Monitoring Coordinator
> Delaware River Basin Commission
> 25 State Police Drive
> West Trenton, NJ
> 08628
> Tel:609 883-9500 ext 268
> Fax:609 883-9522
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From STOCKLAND at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 10:56:06 EDT
Subject: Air Conditioning
Although our AH autos do not have air conditioning, I have a question that
has been bugging me. Our home air conditioners require filter changes
several times during the year, however, air conditioned autos do not have
filters to protect the cooling coils from dust. What is the deal?
Thanks for your comments.
Jon
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 17:15:07 +0200
Subject: RE: Electrical harness for a '59 3000 MK1 BN7 - REALLY LONG
you forgot the fire extinguisher and safety glasses when soldering
-----Original Message-----
From: ccruz@tribune.com [mailto:ccruz@tribune.com]
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 10:34 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; ConSanguis@aol.com
Subject: Electrical harness for a '59 3000 MK1 BN7 - REALLY LONG
Jaret,
I installed a new harness in my '60 BN7 about two weekends ago. Piece
of cake. For the $300 +/- for a new harness I recommend starting with
something new especially if a used harness is anything like the one I
took off my car. I bought mine directly from British Wiring (708)
481-9050. There are others that can get the same product and save you
a few bucks. You can try Ed at JustBrits at (630) 325-6113. The
harness was great. The color coded wires all match up with the
schematic with the exception of one.
The schematic in the shop manual is good - just small. Visit Kinkos
and blow it up, it's worth the trip. The following is the advice I
was given by the collective wisdom on this list that really paid off.
1 - layout the new harness on the floor next to the car. The harness
comes in seven pieces. Identify and label each connection point on
each section. I used color coded file folder labels folded in half to
group each connection point. Using the same color marker, I made an
indication on the schematic as a reference point to be used during
installation. I'm confident the 1.5 - 2 hours of planning here saved
at least 10 during the actual install.
2 - Get your car up on ramps and stands or a lift Then disconnect the
battery.
3 - Start at the rear, with the tail/brake light harness. Working
from right to left. Don't worry about making the connections to the
light assemblies yet. Cut and remove the old harness one section at
a time and just route the new harness using the original as a guide.
Take each clamp, ground, connection one at a time. Replace/reuse the
same clamps. You may just want to order a handful of each clamp just
in case any of the old ones need replacing. Also be sure to order
enough bullet connectors, about 25 should do.
Connect the rear harness to the main harness that runs under the car.
Cap or tape off the two long wires if you don't have a battery cut-off
switch. Route and connect/fasten the harness to the left rail and
work your way up to the fire wall. Drop a line from the bonnet
opening to the floor to help fish the harness up the fire wall to the
top side. There is one clamp between the transmission tunnel and the
fire wall which I was unable to access, remove and reapply. (Shhhh!
don't tell the concours judges). Pretty straight forward to this
point.
4 - The engine harness is big, mean-looking and intimidating. Step 1
will
spare the English engineers' ears from your profane language. Lay out
the
new harness on top of the engine. At this point I took the large
collection of wires that route through the fire wall and under the dash
and wrapped them in aluminum foil to prevent the loom from collecting
and
grease, oil, dirt, etc... Make sure this clump lines up with the hole
in
the firewall.
Take the section that routes along the RHS of the firewall and along
the
RHS of the engine bay. Start at the front of the car making the
connections and working your way back toward the firewall. Beware, the
pigtail connection from the coil to the distributor was short on my new
harness. You may have to move things around a bit or replace with a
longer pigtail. Again, cut and remove the old harness one section at
a
time and just route the new harness using the original as a guide.
Take
each clamp, ground, connection one at a time. Replace/reuse the same
clamps.
When you reach the large aluminum ball, this is a good end to day one!
OK, get some help on this next piece. Cut the old harness going
through
the firewall and pull the old harness down and out of the way under the
dash. With one person in the car and one under the bonnet, route the
large collection of gage wires (remove the foil) through the firewall.
Take your time, it's a bit awkward but can be accomplished in a few
minutes. Once through just let them hang under the dash for now.
Thank
your help and buy them breakfast.
Back in the engine bay, route the harness along the LHS of the firewall
and
along the LHS of the bay. This side of the harness is longer because
it
also routes along the front of the car connecting the headlamps &
driving
lights. The routing is also more difficult on this side compared to
the
other. Take your time, doing one connection at a time. Connect the
bay
harness to the main harness which you fished up from underneath the
car.
Once the LHS is done route the front of the car, connecting the two
horn
and two headlamp pigtails, route to the driving/turn signal lamp
assemblies
and connect later.
Great time for a couple of beers and call it a good day.
5 - Lower the car off the ramps and stands (or lift). Remove your
seats and seat frames. Get a nice thick blanket to lay on the floor
of the cockpit. Take a nice comfy pillow and stick it up in the
driver's side foot well. This is a good time to replace the gage
light bulbs with new ones. A good half day is spent under here - use
the facilities accordingly. Now make sure no one is looking, as to
not embarrass yourself or your neighbors (if the garage door is
open). Contort your body so that your lying on your back on the
floor of your cockpit with your head in the foot well looking up to
the underside of the dash and your feet resting on the rear shroud.
Snip off the old harness leaving a couple of inches of the old
harness wires at their connection points. Start from your oil/temp
gage and work your way toward your left (the car's right). Do one
gage at a time and don't forget the grounds.
Almost there. With that done (don't install your interior yet). Solder
the new bullet connectors to the hanging wires and apply to the four
lamp assemblies.
6 - Cross yourself like a good Catholic (if you're not one, it can't
hurt). Genuflect (bow) in front of the car's grill and say, "I'm not
worthy" three time kissing the grill after each chant.
7 - Reconnect the battery. Turn the key and fire "her" up. Check to
make
sure everything works (excluding OD - remember nothing to sit on).
Trouble
shoot anything not working. Re-install your interior and take it for a
drive. Bring the cell phone just in case. Now test the OD.
All in all, it took about 22 hours. I hope this helps
Legal Mumbo Jumbo: Any references to any persons and/or business do
not
constitute an endorsement of any kind. Representations made do not
guarantee similar outcomes, yadda, yadda, yadda and blah, blah blah...
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
'60 AH 3K BN7
-------------------------------------------------------------------
I am planning to put a new Electrical harness on my '59 3000 MK1 BN7.
Alternatively, I am looking for a used Electrical harness for my '59
3000 MK1 BN7, if anyone has one! I would appreciate some advice as to
the pitfalls I may encounter before I begin. I am not eager to repeat
the slave cylinder removal scenario, although it vastly improved my
usage of profane language (directed toward mostly English engineers).
I have blown up a copy of the Electrical harness for a '59 3000 MK1
BN7 and gone blind cloring it up with my coloered pencils. Is the
Diagram in the shop manual correct? By the way I am already converted
over to a 12V system and am considering an altanator to replace my
generator. Any comments appreciated.
Jaret C. Hill
Louiaville, Kentucky
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 11:24:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Air Conditioning
STOCKLAND@aol.com wrote:
> Although our AH autos do not have air conditioning, I have a question that
> has been bugging me. Our home air conditioners require filter changes
> several times during the year, however, air conditioned autos do not have
> filters to protect the cooling coils from dust. What is the deal?
>
> Thanks for your comments.
>
> Jon
I'm not sure which part of the country you are in but in Canada the filters in
our home HVAC systems are to filter the air that is circulating within the
house. I gather one of the major reasons for fitting them is to minimize the
buildup of dust in the heating ducts rather than protection the occupants from
normal dust.
Some luxury cars actually have the same thing a changeable filter for the
incoming heat and AC air. I have also seen add on filter systems for cars
advertised for use when allergies are a problem.
When we change the evap coils in Chrysler Minivans they really have no build
up of dust and dirt so filtering is probably not necessary.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From William Wagner <wcwagner at lepton.soltec.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 10:54:33 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Healey Fuel Injection
Bob -
I don't think that web address is the right one. It takes one to
a company that sells timing equipment, specializing in timing for skiing
events. I did a web search, but didn't find anything else that looked
right.
Bill Wagner.
'67 BJ8
On Thu, 13 Jul 2000 RobertH148@aol.com wrote:
>
> Here is some information on fuel injecting a Healey.
>
> Split Second had equipment to inject the Healey. They use Datsun 240Z stuff.
> http://splitsecond.com
>
> contact Lenz Nest at 949-250-1797 for modified SU housings for injection
> bodies.
>
> This information comes from Udo Putzke. He can be reached at:
> putzkes@worldnet.att.net
>
> He also has a great bilstein shock suspension system.
>
> Bob Humphreys
>
From "DHT" <dht at erols.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 12:07:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Air Conditioning
My BMW 740i does.
Dean
----- Original Message -----
From: <STOCKLAND@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 10:56 AM
Subject: Air Conditioning
>
> Although our AH autos do not have air conditioning, I have a question that
> has been bugging me. Our home air conditioners require filter changes
> several times during the year, however, air conditioned autos do not have
> filters to protect the cooling coils from dust. What is the deal?
>
> Thanks for your comments.
>
> Jon
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 12:30:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Electrical harness for a '59 3000 MK1 BN7 - REALLY LONG
In a message dated 7/14/00 7:58:07 AM, ccruz@tribune.com writes:
<< Now make sure no one is looking, as to
not embarrass yourself or your neighbors (if the garage door is
open). Contort your body so that your lying on your back on the
floor of your cockpit with your head in the foot well looking up to
the underside of the dash and your feet resting on the rear shroud.
Snip off the old harness leaving a couple of inches of the old
harness wires at their connection points. Start from your oil/temp
gage and work your way toward your left (the car's right). Do one
gage at a time and don't forget the grounds. >>
Terriffic write-up and well worth being provided to the Healey magazines with
a suitable set of pictures, if available -- wiring harnesses are one of the
worst areas of unrestored Healeys as sources of untraceable demons and worth
replacing if one does nothing else. Except that the job seems almost
mystical in nature until you've done it, to be partially conducted in the
fourth dimension.
HOWEVER, I would suggest one thing to make your job easier: At the point that
you're ready to do the instrument panel: remove the steering wheel, then
remove all four gauges. Working through the big access holes left by the
tach and speedo, hook everything else up -- you may have to get on your back
only once or twice. Then at the very end hook up the two big gauges and
install them.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 12:38:31 EDT
Subject: Add to your spares list
For those driving Healeys to Conclave or Rendezvous:
In the latest issue of British Car Magazine, I published a list of parts and
tools that should be carried in any Healey going more than fifty miles from
home. Most of the list was drawn from one put together by the Bluegrass
Club, to which Roger Moment and Paul Kile added some items.
Though the list looks long, most of the stuff is both small and obvious, and
the final results don't take up more than about 1.5 cubic feet. Maybe less.
IN ANY CASE. We left off one item, that was pointed out by Hendrix Wire
Wheel:
An inner tube that will fit your tires.
On a long trip, if you're going to get a flat, it wll on Saturday afternoon
in the middle of nowhere, many days and miles from being able to get a new
inner tube to fix the tire. Having an inner tube means you can replace the
flat with the spare, then get the spare fixed at any place that can dismount
a tire.
One other note, courtesy of Hendrix:
If you are driving on 165 or 175 tires (Dunlop Sp20s or Michelin XZXs, be
sure to request that the tube be "an undersized 15-inch tube." They note
that the normal tube provided for a 15-inch wheel is designed to fit anything
from 165 to 215 and in the smaller tires is prone to wrinkling (a BAD THING).
Also, several of our experts suggest putting a thin coating of talcum powder
(from any drug store or super market) in the tire before installing the tube
-- this will allow the tube to slide into place easier, and prevent it from
vulcanizing to the tire from heavy, hot driving.
Have a safe trip.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
www.britishcar.com
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 12:42:09 -0500
Subject: Re: front spring compression
Hi Alan,
John is correct, the all-thread rod method works fine. Just get yourself
a ratcheting wrench as it takes a while, and once it gets halfway even a
deep socket won't fit. There is no affordable spring compressor that I have
seen that will do the job as the shock tower interferes with most of them,
and you can't get the internal type back out. Here is how NOT to do it. I
was visiting a long time British car mechanic a few months ago. He was doing
some work on the front suspension of a BJ8. When I went into his work area I
found his assistant with one of the front springs in the shop press! He was
apparently trying to compress the spring and then secure it with some cable.
Needless to say, I left the room immediately. I was assured that they have
done this for years. About five minutes later I heard "SPROING...CRASH" as
the cables both slipped round to one side of the spring and the spring shot
out of the press and across the room. It narrowly missed the mechanic. That
was when I told him the right way to do it. Coil springs in compression can
KILL if they get loose, so keeping the spring contained in the suspension
arms is by far safest way to install it. Hope this helps someone avoid
injury. ---Peter (BMC Restorations)
-----Original Message-----
From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
To: Alan Hantke <Alan_Hantke@i2.com>
Cc: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, July 13, 2000 11:57 AM
Subject: Re: front spring compression
Hi Alan,
I don't recall seeing anyone answer your question. I've never compressed
a Healey front spring but I think this is the general procedure. If I'm
wrong, someone will surely correct me or add additional information.
Use all-thread rods of sufficient length to accommodate the uncompressed
spring and use them instead of the 4 spring plate bolts. Tighten the
nuts on the all-thread rod in sequence to compress the spring. Remove
one of the threaded rods and replace with a spring plate bolt. Repeat
for the 3 remaining rods. Of course the "righter" way is to use a coil
spring compressor!
Regards,
John
Alan Hantke wrote:
>
> Now for a more basic question... how do you compress a front spring
> when the car is off of the ground. I'm told that you can get a couple
> of all-thread rods, but where do you place them, etc.
>
> Thanks,
> --Alan
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 14:03:23 EDT
Subject: Re: Add to your spares list
In a message dated 7/14/2000 11:45:26 Central Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< several of our experts suggest putting a thin coating of talcum powder
(from any drug store or super market) in the tire before installing the tube
>>
I thought talcum powder was to put up a Healey tail pipe to make a cloud of
fake smoke when you started it.
I carry a four pound supply and a mustard squeeze bottle.
Anonymous.
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 14:09:43 -0400
Subject: Re: front spring compression
I second that!!!!
Somewhat akin to welding a gas tank. Ask Bruce at the Healey Surgeons about that
one;-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Peter Brauen wrote:
> Hi Alan,
> John is correct, the all-thread rod method works fine. Just get yourself
> a ratcheting wrench as it takes a while, and once it gets halfway even a
> deep socket won't fit. There is no affordable spring compressor that I have
> seen that will do the job as the shock tower interferes with most of them,
> and you can't get the internal type back out. Here is how NOT to do it. I
> was visiting a long time British car mechanic a few months ago. He was doing
> some work on the front suspension of a BJ8. When I went into his work area I
> found his assistant with one of the front springs in the shop press! He was
> apparently trying to compress the spring and then secure it with some cable.
> Needless to say, I left the room immediately. I was assured that they have
> done this for years. About five minutes later I heard "SPROING...CRASH" as
> the cables both slipped round to one side of the spring and the spring shot
> out of the press and across the room. It narrowly missed the mechanic. That
> was when I told him the right way to do it. Coil springs in compression can
> KILL if they get loose, so keeping the spring contained in the suspension
> arms is by far safest way to install it. Hope this helps someone avoid
> injury. ---Peter (BMC Restorations)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
> To: Alan Hantke <Alan_Hantke@i2.com>
> Cc: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, July 13, 2000 11:57 AM
> Subject: Re: front spring compression
>
> Hi Alan,
>
> I don't recall seeing anyone answer your question. I've never compressed
> a Healey front spring but I think this is the general procedure. If I'm
> wrong, someone will surely correct me or add additional information.
>
> Use all-thread rods of sufficient length to accommodate the uncompressed
> spring and use them instead of the 4 spring plate bolts. Tighten the
> nuts on the all-thread rod in sequence to compress the spring. Remove
> one of the threaded rods and replace with a spring plate bolt. Repeat
> for the 3 remaining rods. Of course the "righter" way is to use a coil
> spring compressor!
>
> Regards,
> John
>
> Alan Hantke wrote:
> >
>
> > Now for a more basic question... how do you compress a front spring
> > when the car is off of the ground. I'm told that you can get a couple
> > of all-thread rods, but where do you place them, etc.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > --Alan
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 14:17:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Add to your spares list
Better yet: Put a table spoon of castor oil in your gas tank.
It won't harm anything and you will think you are at Brooklands in 1932....;-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Drtrite@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 7/14/2000 11:45:26 Central Daylight Time,
> Editorgary@aol.com writes:
>
> << several of our experts suggest putting a thin coating of talcum powder
> (from any drug store or super market) in the tire before installing the tube
> >>
>
> I thought talcum powder was to put up a Healey tail pipe to make a cloud of
> fake smoke when you started it.
>
> I carry a four pound supply and a mustard squeeze bottle.
>
> Anonymous.
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 14:44:14 -0400
Subject: RE: front spring compression
welding a gas tank!? are they still around to talk about it?
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:magicare@home.com]
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 2:10 PM
To: Peter Brauen
Cc: John Loftus; Healey List
Subject: Re: front spring compression
I second that!!!!
Somewhat akin to welding a gas tank. Ask Bruce at the Healey Surgeons about
that
one;-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Peter Brauen wrote:
> Hi Alan,
> John is correct, the all-thread rod method works fine. Just get
yourself
> a ratcheting wrench as it takes a while, and once it gets halfway even a
> deep socket won't fit. There is no affordable spring compressor that I
have
> seen that will do the job as the shock tower interferes with most of them,
> and you can't get the internal type back out. Here is how NOT to do it. I
> was visiting a long time British car mechanic a few months ago. He was
doing
> some work on the front suspension of a BJ8. When I went into his work area
I
> found his assistant with one of the front springs in the shop press! He
was
> apparently trying to compress the spring and then secure it with some
cable.
> Needless to say, I left the room immediately. I was assured that they have
> done this for years. About five minutes later I heard "SPROING...CRASH" as
> the cables both slipped round to one side of the spring and the spring
shot
> out of the press and across the room. It narrowly missed the mechanic.
That
> was when I told him the right way to do it. Coil springs in compression
can
> KILL if they get loose, so keeping the spring contained in the suspension
> arms is by far safest way to install it. Hope this helps someone avoid
> injury. ---Peter (BMC Restorations)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
> To: Alan Hantke <Alan_Hantke@i2.com>
> Cc: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, July 13, 2000 11:57 AM
> Subject: Re: front spring compression
>
> Hi Alan,
>
> I don't recall seeing anyone answer your question. I've never
compressed
> a Healey front spring but I think this is the general procedure. If
I'm
> wrong, someone will surely correct me or add additional information.
>
> Use all-thread rods of sufficient length to accommodate the
uncompressed
> spring and use them instead of the 4 spring plate bolts. Tighten the
> nuts on the all-thread rod in sequence to compress the spring. Remove
> one of the threaded rods and replace with a spring plate bolt. Repeat
> for the 3 remaining rods. Of course the "righter" way is to use a coil
> spring compressor!
>
> Regards,
> John
>
> Alan Hantke wrote:
> >
>
> > Now for a more basic question... how do you compress a front spring
> > when the car is off of the ground. I'm told that you can get a
couple
> > of all-thread rods, but where do you place them, etc.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > --Alan
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 14:46:45 -0400
Subject: RE: front spring compression
that's as bad as somebody I know (knew) who used a lighted match to check if
he had gas in his 60 vette
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:magicare@home.com]
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 2:10 PM
To: Peter Brauen
Cc: John Loftus; Healey List
Subject: Re: front spring compression
I second that!!!!
Somewhat akin to welding a gas tank. Ask Bruce at the Healey Surgeons about
that
one;-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Peter Brauen wrote:
> Hi Alan,
> John is correct, the all-thread rod method works fine. Just get
yourself
> a ratcheting wrench as it takes a while, and once it gets halfway even a
> deep socket won't fit. There is no affordable spring compressor that I
have
> seen that will do the job as the shock tower interferes with most of them,
> and you can't get the internal type back out. Here is how NOT to do it. I
> was visiting a long time British car mechanic a few months ago. He was
doing
> some work on the front suspension of a BJ8. When I went into his work area
I
> found his assistant with one of the front springs in the shop press! He
was
> apparently trying to compress the spring and then secure it with some
cable.
> Needless to say, I left the room immediately. I was assured that they have
> done this for years. About five minutes later I heard "SPROING...CRASH" as
> the cables both slipped round to one side of the spring and the spring
shot
> out of the press and across the room. It narrowly missed the mechanic.
That
> was when I told him the right way to do it. Coil springs in compression
can
> KILL if they get loose, so keeping the spring contained in the suspension
> arms is by far safest way to install it. Hope this helps someone avoid
> injury. ---Peter (BMC Restorations)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
> To: Alan Hantke <Alan_Hantke@i2.com>
> Cc: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, July 13, 2000 11:57 AM
> Subject: Re: front spring compression
>
> Hi Alan,
>
> I don't recall seeing anyone answer your question. I've never
compressed
> a Healey front spring but I think this is the general procedure. If
I'm
> wrong, someone will surely correct me or add additional information.
>
> Use all-thread rods of sufficient length to accommodate the
uncompressed
> spring and use them instead of the 4 spring plate bolts. Tighten the
> nuts on the all-thread rod in sequence to compress the spring. Remove
> one of the threaded rods and replace with a spring plate bolt. Repeat
> for the 3 remaining rods. Of course the "righter" way is to use a coil
> spring compressor!
>
> Regards,
> John
>
> Alan Hantke wrote:
> >
>
> > Now for a more basic question... how do you compress a front spring
> > when the car is off of the ground. I'm told that you can get a
couple
> > of all-thread rods, but where do you place them, etc.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > --Alan
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 15:03:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Diff. gearing vs. O/D
In a message dated 7/13/00 8:07:13 PM, bspidell@slip.net writes:
<< I know modifying an O/D would be more work, but you'd get the reduced RPM
on the
highway without changing the around-town drivability.
Anyone tried this?
Bob >>
Speaking from memory, there are two overdrive ratios. The only reason I know
this is that the ratio that gives higher final speed relative to rpm (is that
a "higher" ratio or a "lower" ratio) was installed in my 59 BN7 after I
exploded the gears on my original o/d. It is fantastic at highway speeds
--I now sit at between 3000 and 3400 at comfortable to scary highway speeds
in top o/d and still have good get-away umph around town or when I downshift
to pass slower cars.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 15:12:06 -0400
Subject: Re: front spring compression
Amazingly ...yes!!!
I have it on good authority that Bruce used to have it on display in his shop.
Used to have a photo of it. It was almost spherical..... with seams!!!!
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>"Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA"
wrote:
> welding a gas tank!? are they still around to talk about it?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Salter [mailto:magicare@home.com]
> Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 2:10 PM
> To: Peter Brauen
> Cc: John Loftus; Healey List
> Subject: Re: front spring compression
>
> I second that!!!!
> Somewhat akin to welding a gas tank. Ask Bruce at the Healey Surgeons about
> that
> one;-)
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> Peter Brauen wrote:
>
> > Hi Alan,
> > John is correct, the all-thread rod method works fine. Just get
> yourself
> > a ratcheting wrench as it takes a while, and once it gets halfway even a
> > deep socket won't fit. There is no affordable spring compressor that I
> have
> > seen that will do the job as the shock tower interferes with most of them,
> > and you can't get the internal type back out. Here is how NOT to do it. I
> > was visiting a long time British car mechanic a few months ago. He was
> doing
> > some work on the front suspension of a BJ8. When I went into his work area
> I
> > found his assistant with one of the front springs in the shop press! He
> was
> > apparently trying to compress the spring and then secure it with some
> cable.
> > Needless to say, I left the room immediately. I was assured that they have
> > done this for years. About five minutes later I heard "SPROING...CRASH" as
> > the cables both slipped round to one side of the spring and the spring
> shot
> > out of the press and across the room. It narrowly missed the mechanic.
> That
> > was when I told him the right way to do it. Coil springs in compression
> can
> > KILL if they get loose, so keeping the spring contained in the suspension
> > arms is by far safest way to install it. Hope this helps someone avoid
> > injury. ---Peter (BMC Restorations)
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
> > To: Alan Hantke <Alan_Hantke@i2.com>
> > Cc: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Date: Thursday, July 13, 2000 11:57 AM
> > Subject: Re: front spring compression
> >
> > Hi Alan,
> >
> > I don't recall seeing anyone answer your question. I've never
> compressed
> > a Healey front spring but I think this is the general procedure. If
> I'm
> > wrong, someone will surely correct me or add additional information.
> >
> > Use all-thread rods of sufficient length to accommodate the
> uncompressed
> > spring and use them instead of the 4 spring plate bolts. Tighten the
> > nuts on the all-thread rod in sequence to compress the spring. Remove
> > one of the threaded rods and replace with a spring plate bolt. Repeat
> > for the 3 remaining rods. Of course the "righter" way is to use a coil
> > spring compressor!
> >
> > Regards,
> > John
> >
> > Alan Hantke wrote:
> > >
> >
> > > Now for a more basic question... how do you compress a front spring
> > > when the car is off of the ground. I'm told that you can get a
> couple
> > > of all-thread rods, but where do you place them, etc.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > --Alan
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 15:15:48 -0400
Subject: RE: front spring compression
you mean he displayed it like a trophy?
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:magicare@home.com]
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 3:12 PM
To: Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA
Cc: Peter Brauen; John Loftus; Healey List
Subject: Re: front spring compression
Amazingly ...yes!!!
I have it on good authority that Bruce used to have it on display in his
shop.
Used to have a photo of it. It was almost spherical..... with seams!!!!
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>"Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA"
wrote:
> welding a gas tank!? are they still around to talk about it?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Salter [mailto:magicare@home.com]
> Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 2:10 PM
> To: Peter Brauen
> Cc: John Loftus; Healey List
> Subject: Re: front spring compression
>
> I second that!!!!
> Somewhat akin to welding a gas tank. Ask Bruce at the Healey Surgeons
about
> that
> one;-)
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> Peter Brauen wrote:
>
> > Hi Alan,
> > John is correct, the all-thread rod method works fine. Just get
> yourself
> > a ratcheting wrench as it takes a while, and once it gets halfway even
a
> > deep socket won't fit. There is no affordable spring compressor that I
> have
> > seen that will do the job as the shock tower interferes with most of
them,
> > and you can't get the internal type back out. Here is how NOT to do it.
I
> > was visiting a long time British car mechanic a few months ago. He was
> doing
> > some work on the front suspension of a BJ8. When I went into his work
area
> I
> > found his assistant with one of the front springs in the shop press! He
> was
> > apparently trying to compress the spring and then secure it with some
> cable.
> > Needless to say, I left the room immediately. I was assured that they
have
> > done this for years. About five minutes later I heard "SPROING...CRASH"
as
> > the cables both slipped round to one side of the spring and the spring
> shot
> > out of the press and across the room. It narrowly missed the mechanic.
> That
> > was when I told him the right way to do it. Coil springs in compression
> can
> > KILL if they get loose, so keeping the spring contained in the
suspension
> > arms is by far safest way to install it. Hope this helps someone avoid
> > injury. ---Peter (BMC Restorations)
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
> > To: Alan Hantke <Alan_Hantke@i2.com>
> > Cc: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Date: Thursday, July 13, 2000 11:57 AM
> > Subject: Re: front spring compression
> >
> > Hi Alan,
> >
> > I don't recall seeing anyone answer your question. I've never
> compressed
> > a Healey front spring but I think this is the general procedure. If
> I'm
> > wrong, someone will surely correct me or add additional information.
> >
> > Use all-thread rods of sufficient length to accommodate the
> uncompressed
> > spring and use them instead of the 4 spring plate bolts. Tighten the
> > nuts on the all-thread rod in sequence to compress the spring.
Remove
> > one of the threaded rods and replace with a spring plate bolt.
Repeat
> > for the 3 remaining rods. Of course the "righter" way is to use a
coil
> > spring compressor!
> >
> > Regards,
> > John
> >
> > Alan Hantke wrote:
> > >
> >
> > > Now for a more basic question... how do you compress a front
spring
> > > when the car is off of the ground. I'm told that you can get a
> couple
> > > of all-thread rods, but where do you place them, etc.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > --Alan
From "Alan Hantke" <Alan_Hantke at i2.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 12:16:42 -0700
Subject: Re: front spring compression
Peter et al...
Thanks for the reply, but I have a question about this.... being a vacation day,
I just went and looked
at the car. I can certainly understand where to put the all-thread on the
bottom, but there is no plate
into which I can attach the threads on the top? The net result is that there
*is* no way to compress the
spring in this scenario. Am I missing something basic here? Maybe the cars are
different or something.
I have a 1961 BT7, if that helps. From what I can tell, I need some type of
C-clamp type fixture to
compress the springs (which is similar to what the factory tool looks like,
BTW). I know that this
should be easy, and everyone's explaination is just that, but I don't see how it
will work with my
voiture.
Thanks,
--Alan
|--------+---------------------------->
| | Peter Brauen |
| | <pbrauen@telepak.n|
| | et> |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-healeys@auto|
| | x.team.net |
| | |
| | |
| | 07/14/00 10:42 AM |
| | Please respond to |
| | Peter Brauen |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------->
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| |
| To: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com> |
| cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net> |
| Subject: Re: front spring compression |
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------|
Hi Alan,
John is correct, the all-thread rod method works fine. Just get yourself
a ratcheting wrench as it takes a while, and once it gets halfway even a
deep socket won't fit. There is no affordable spring compressor that I have
seen that will do the job as the shock tower interferes with most of them,
and you can't get the internal type back out. Here is how NOT to do it. I
was visiting a long time British car mechanic a few months ago. He was doing
some work on the front suspension of a BJ8. When I went into his work area I
found his assistant with one of the front springs in the shop press! He was
apparently trying to compress the spring and then secure it with some cable.
Needless to say, I left the room immediately. I was assured that they have
done this for years. About five minutes later I heard "SPROING...CRASH" as
the cables both slipped round to one side of the spring and the spring shot
out of the press and across the room. It narrowly missed the mechanic. That
was when I told him the right way to do it. Coil springs in compression can
KILL if they get loose, so keeping the spring contained in the suspension
arms is by far safest way to install it. Hope this helps someone avoid
injury. ---Peter (BMC Restorations)
-----Original Message-----
From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
To: Alan Hantke <Alan_Hantke@i2.com>
Cc: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, July 13, 2000 11:57 AM
Subject: Re: front spring compression
Hi Alan,
I don't recall seeing anyone answer your question. I've never compressed
a Healey front spring but I think this is the general procedure. If I'm
wrong, someone will surely correct me or add additional information.
Use all-thread rods of sufficient length to accommodate the uncompressed
spring and use them instead of the 4 spring plate bolts. Tighten the
nuts on the all-thread rod in sequence to compress the spring. Remove
one of the threaded rods and replace with a spring plate bolt. Repeat
for the 3 remaining rods. Of course the "righter" way is to use a coil
spring compressor!
Regards,
John
Alan Hantke wrote:
>
> Now for a more basic question... how do you compress a front spring
> when the car is off of the ground. I'm told that you can get a couple
> of all-thread rods, but where do you place them, etc.
>
> Thanks,
> --Alan
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 00:42:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Electrical harness for a '59 3000 MK1 BN7 - REALLY LONG
Gary--a couple of other points I have picked up: First I have found
that it's easiest to replace the starter aswitch first, since you can't
replace it from the front as you can a gauge. Second, to avoid any
unpleasant surprises, Be sure to disconnect the battery before fooling
around under the dash. There is a HOT wire running from the control box
to the light switch to the ignition. Regards, John
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 7/14/00 7:58:07 AM, ccruz@tribune.com writes:
>
> << Now make sure no one is looking, as to
> not embarrass yourself or your neighbors (if the garage door is
> open). Contort your body so that your lying on your back on the
> floor of your cockpit with your head in the foot well looking up to
> the underside of the dash and your feet resting on the rear shroud.
> Snip off the old harness leaving a couple of inches of the old
> harness wires at their connection points. Start from your oil/temp
> gage and work your way toward your left (the car's right). Do one
> gage at a time and don't forget the grounds. >>
>
> Terriffic write-up and well worth being provided to the Healey magazines with
> a suitable set of pictures, if available -- wiring harnesses are one of the
> worst areas of unrestored Healeys as sources of untraceable demons and worth
> replacing if one does nothing else. Except that the job seems almost
> mystical in nature until you've done it, to be partially conducted in the
> fourth dimension.
>
> HOWEVER, I would suggest one thing to make your job easier: At the point that
> you're ready to do the instrument panel: remove the steering wheel, then
> remove all four gauges. Working through the big access holes left by the
> tach and speedo, hook everything else up -- you may have to get on your back
> only once or twice. Then at the very end hook up the two big gauges and
> install them.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
From ccruz at tribune.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 14:35:00 -0500
Subject: Around The World Rally
<< I see that the ATW Rally is in the Atlas Mountains (Morocco) and
the temperatureIN THE SHADE is 54 degrees Celsius - that's nearly
130F. >>
So is the temperature in my Healey...What's the big deal?
Carlos Cruz
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 12:42:58 -0700
Subject: Re: front spring compression
Hi Alan,
Picture the all-thread rod with a nut at the top and a nut at the
bottom. Below the top nut is the lower link. Above the lower nut is the
spring seat. By tightening either the top or bottom nut the spring seat
is raised and compresses the spring. Is this clearer?
Regards,
John
Alan Hantke wrote:
>
> Peter et al...
> Thanks for the reply, but I have a question about this.... being a vacation
>day,
> I just went and looked
> at the car. I can certainly understand where to put the all-thread on the
> bottom, but there is no plate
> into which I can attach the threads on the top? The net result is that there
> *is* no way to compress the
> spring in this scenario. Am I missing something basic here? Maybe the cars
>are
> different or something.
> I have a 1961 BT7, if that helps. From what I can tell, I need some type of
> C-clamp type fixture to
> compress the springs (which is similar to what the factory tool looks like,
> BTW). I know that this
> should be easy, and everyone's explaination is just that, but I don't see how
>it
> will work with my
> voiture.
>
> Thanks,
> --Alan
>
> |--------+---------------------------->
> | | Peter Brauen |
> | | <pbrauen@telepak.n|
> | | et> |
> | | Sent by: |
> | | owner-healeys@auto|
> | | x.team.net |
> | | |
> | | |
> | | 07/14/00 10:42 AM |
> | | Please respond to |
> | | Peter Brauen |
> | | |
> |--------+---------------------------->
>
>>---------------------------------------------------------------------------|
> |
>|
> | To: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
>|
> | cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
>|
> | Subject: Re: front spring compression
>|
>
>>---------------------------------------------------------------------------|
>
> Hi Alan,
> John is correct, the all-thread rod method works fine. Just get yourself
> a ratcheting wrench as it takes a while, and once it gets halfway even a
> deep socket won't fit. There is no affordable spring compressor that I have
> seen that will do the job as the shock tower interferes with most of them,
> and you can't get the internal type back out. Here is how NOT to do it. I
> was visiting a long time British car mechanic a few months ago. He was doing
> some work on the front suspension of a BJ8. When I went into his work area I
> found his assistant with one of the front springs in the shop press! He was
> apparently trying to compress the spring and then secure it with some cable.
> Needless to say, I left the room immediately. I was assured that they have
> done this for years. About five minutes later I heard "SPROING...CRASH" as
> the cables both slipped round to one side of the spring and the spring shot
> out of the press and across the room. It narrowly missed the mechanic. That
> was when I told him the right way to do it. Coil springs in compression can
> KILL if they get loose, so keeping the spring contained in the suspension
> arms is by far safest way to install it. Hope this helps someone avoid
> injury. ---Peter (BMC Restorations)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
> To: Alan Hantke <Alan_Hantke@i2.com>
> Cc: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, July 13, 2000 11:57 AM
> Subject: Re: front spring compression
>
> Hi Alan,
>
> I don't recall seeing anyone answer your question. I've never compressed
> a Healey front spring but I think this is the general procedure. If I'm
> wrong, someone will surely correct me or add additional information.
>
> Use all-thread rods of sufficient length to accommodate the uncompressed
> spring and use them instead of the 4 spring plate bolts. Tighten the
> nuts on the all-thread rod in sequence to compress the spring. Remove
> one of the threaded rods and replace with a spring plate bolt. Repeat
> for the 3 remaining rods. Of course the "righter" way is to use a coil
> spring compressor!
>
> Regards,
> John
>
> Alan Hantke wrote:
> >
>
> > Now for a more basic question... how do you compress a front spring
> > when the car is off of the ground. I'm told that you can get a couple
> > of all-thread rods, but where do you place them, etc.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > --Alan
From ccruz at tribune.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 14:47:00 -0500
Subject: Electrical harness for a '59 3000 MK1 BN7
<< HOWEVER, I would suggest one thing to make your job easier: At the
point that you're ready to do the instrument panel: remove the
steering wheel, then remove all four gauges. Working through the big
access holes left by the tach and speedo, hook everything else up --
you may have to get on your back only once or twice. Then at the very
end hook up the two big gauges and install them. >>
Thanks for the catch Gary. I did remove the steering wheel - that was
a big help. Once reclined, working on the gages from the rear wasn't
too bad, however your approach works just as well.
Carlos Cruz
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 15:51:23 -0400
Subject: Re: front spring compression
Alan Hantke wrote:
> Peter et al...
> Thanks for the reply, but I have a question about this.... being a vacation
>day,
> I just went and looked
> at the car. I can certainly understand where to put the all-thread on the
> bottom, but there is no plate
> into which I can attach the threads on the top? The net result is that there
> *is* no way to compress the
> spring in this scenario. Am I missing something basic here? Maybe the cars
>are
> different or something.
> I have a 1961 BT7, if that helps. From what I can tell, I need some type of
> C-clamp type fixture to
> compress the springs (which is similar to what the factory tool looks like,
> BTW). I know that this
> should be easy, and everyone's explaination is just that, but I don't see how
>it
> will work with my
> voiture.
>
> Thanks,
> --Alan
>
> |--------+---------------------------->
> | | Peter Brauen |
> | | <pbrauen@telepak.n|
> | | et> |
> | | Sent by: |
> | | owner-healeys@auto|
> | | x.team.net |
> | | |
> | | |
> | | 07/14/00 10:42 AM |
> | | Please respond to |
> | | Peter Brauen |
> | | |
> |--------+---------------------------->
>
>>---------------------------------------------------------------------------|
> |
>|
> | To: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
>|
> | cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
>|
> | Subject: Re: front spring compression
>|
>
>>---------------------------------------------------------------------------|
>
> Hi Alan,
> John is correct, the all-thread rod method works fine. Just get yourself
> a ratcheting wrench as it takes a while, and once it gets halfway even a
> deep socket won't fit. There is no affordable spring compressor that I have
> seen that will do the job as the shock tower interferes with most of them,
> and you can't get the internal type back out. Here is how NOT to do it. I
> was visiting a long time British car mechanic a few months ago. He was doing
> some work on the front suspension of a BJ8. When I went into his work area I
> found his assistant with one of the front springs in the shop press! He was
> apparently trying to compress the spring and then secure it with some cable.
> Needless to say, I left the room immediately. I was assured that they have
> done this for years. About five minutes later I heard "SPROING...CRASH" as
> the cables both slipped round to one side of the spring and the spring shot
> out of the press and across the room. It narrowly missed the mechanic. That
> was when I told him the right way to do it. Coil springs in compression can
> KILL if they get loose, so keeping the spring contained in the suspension
> arms is by far safest way to install it. Hope this helps someone avoid
> injury. ---Peter (BMC Restorations)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
> To: Alan Hantke <Alan_Hantke@i2.com>
> Cc: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, July 13, 2000 11:57 AM
> Subject: Re: front spring compression
>
> Hi Alan,
>
> I don't recall seeing anyone answer your question. I've never compressed
> a Healey front spring but I think this is the general procedure. If I'm
> wrong, someone will surely correct me or add additional information.
>
> Use all-thread rods of sufficient length to accommodate the uncompressed
> spring and use them instead of the 4 spring plate bolts. Tighten the
> nuts on the all-thread rod in sequence to compress the spring. Remove
> one of the threaded rods and replace with a spring plate bolt. Repeat
> for the 3 remaining rods. Of course the "righter" way is to use a coil
> spring compressor!
>
> Regards,
> John
>
> Alan Hantke wrote:
> >
>
> > Now for a more basic question... how do you compress a front spring
> > when the car is off of the ground. I'm told that you can get a couple
> > of all-thread rods, but where do you place them, etc.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > --Alan
The spring seat plate is to be attached to the underside of the "A" arms. You
put
the spring on the top of the plate, offer the spring and plate up under the
upper
spring seat and the spring will prevent you installing the bolts to hold the
plate
on because it is about 3 inches away. The threaded rods now come into play.
They are
used to pull the plate up to the "A" arms.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 14:50:20 -0500
Subject: Re: front spring compression
Hi Alan,
Okay, you put the spring between the lower arms up into the shock tower.
Then place the spring plate complete with bump stop under the spring. Jam
two nuts together on one end of each piece of the all thread. Insert all
thread from the bottom through the spring plate and the a-arms. Then place a
flat washer and nut on the top and start cranking. You will find that oiling
the threads will make things go smoother. I only use two diagonal holes to
draw it up, but you can use all four if you have time to kill. When the
plate is close to flush with the arms use a large tapered punch (or big ass
screwdriver) to align the other holes and insert the correct bolts, washers
and locknuts. Don't forget to put the sway bar mounting bracket on the front
(longer) ones. Then remove the all thread and replace with the correct
bolts. Tighten and enjoy. Good luck!---Peter (BMC Restorations)
P.S. If your frame is all nice and shiny painted, bend a thin piece of
sheet metal 90 degrees and place it between the pan and the painted rail so
it doesn't scratch.
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Hantke <Alan_Hantke@i2.com>
To: Peter Brauen <pbrauen@telepak.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>; John Loftus
<loftusdesign@home.com>; owner-healeys@autox.team.net
<owner-healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, July 14, 2000 2:15 PM
Subject: Re: front spring compression
Peter et al...
Thanks for the reply, but I have a question about this.... being a
vacation day,
I just went and looked
at the car. I can certainly understand where to put the all-thread on
the
bottom, but there is no plate
into which I can attach the threads on the top? The net result is that
there
*is* no way to compress the
spring in this scenario. Am I missing something basic here? Maybe the
cars are
different or something.
I have a 1961 BT7, if that helps. From what I can tell, I need some
type of
C-clamp type fixture to
compress the springs (which is similar to what the factory tool looks
like,
BTW). I know that this
should be easy, and everyone's explaination is just that, but I don't
see how it
will work with my
voiture.
Thanks,
--Alan
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 12:52:37 -0700
Subject: RE: front spring compression
I use a floor jack under the spring plate to do the work and just keep the
all thread there for safety. This only works if you have the engine in,
though.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: John Loftus [mailto:loftusdesign@home.com]
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 12:43 PM
To: Alan Hantke; 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: Re: front spring compression
Hi Alan,
Picture the all-thread rod with a nut at the top and a nut at the
bottom. Below the top nut is the lower link. Above the lower nut is the
spring seat. By tightening either the top or bottom nut the spring seat
is raised and compresses the spring. Is this clearer?
Regards,
John
Alan Hantke wrote:
>
> Peter et al...
> Thanks for the reply, but I have a question about this.... being a
vacation day,
> I just went and looked
> at the car. I can certainly understand where to put the all-thread on the
> bottom, but there is no plate
> into which I can attach the threads on the top? The net result is that
there
> *is* no way to compress the
> spring in this scenario. Am I missing something basic here? Maybe the
cars are
> different or something.
> I have a 1961 BT7, if that helps. From what I can tell, I need some type
of
> C-clamp type fixture to
> compress the springs (which is similar to what the factory tool looks
like,
> BTW). I know that this
> should be easy, and everyone's explaination is just that, but I don't see
how it
> will work with my
> voiture.
>
> Thanks,
> --Alan
>
> |--------+---------------------------->
> | | Peter Brauen |
> | | <pbrauen@telepak.n|
> | | et> |
> | | Sent by: |
> | | owner-healeys@auto|
> | | x.team.net |
> | | |
> | | |
> | | 07/14/00 10:42 AM |
> | | Please respond to |
> | | Peter Brauen |
> | | |
> |--------+---------------------------->
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
|
> |
|
> | To: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
|
> | cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
|
> | Subject: Re: front spring compression
|
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
|
>
> Hi Alan,
> John is correct, the all-thread rod method works fine. Just get
yourself
> a ratcheting wrench as it takes a while, and once it gets halfway even a
> deep socket won't fit. There is no affordable spring compressor that I
have
> seen that will do the job as the shock tower interferes with most of them,
> and you can't get the internal type back out. Here is how NOT to do it. I
> was visiting a long time British car mechanic a few months ago. He was
doing
> some work on the front suspension of a BJ8. When I went into his work area
I
> found his assistant with one of the front springs in the shop press! He
was
> apparently trying to compress the spring and then secure it with some
cable.
> Needless to say, I left the room immediately. I was assured that they have
> done this for years. About five minutes later I heard "SPROING...CRASH" as
> the cables both slipped round to one side of the spring and the spring
shot
> out of the press and across the room. It narrowly missed the mechanic.
That
> was when I told him the right way to do it. Coil springs in compression
can
> KILL if they get loose, so keeping the spring contained in the suspension
> arms is by far safest way to install it. Hope this helps someone avoid
> injury. ---Peter (BMC Restorations)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
> To: Alan Hantke <Alan_Hantke@i2.com>
> Cc: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, July 13, 2000 11:57 AM
> Subject: Re: front spring compression
>
> Hi Alan,
>
> I don't recall seeing anyone answer your question. I've never
compressed
> a Healey front spring but I think this is the general procedure. If
I'm
> wrong, someone will surely correct me or add additional information.
>
> Use all-thread rods of sufficient length to accommodate the
uncompressed
> spring and use them instead of the 4 spring plate bolts. Tighten the
> nuts on the all-thread rod in sequence to compress the spring. Remove
> one of the threaded rods and replace with a spring plate bolt. Repeat
> for the 3 remaining rods. Of course the "righter" way is to use a coil
> spring compressor!
>
> Regards,
> John
>
> Alan Hantke wrote:
> >
>
> > Now for a more basic question... how do you compress a front spring
> > when the car is off of the ground. I'm told that you can get a
couple
> > of all-thread rods, but where do you place them, etc.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > --Alan
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 16:03:09 EDT
Subject: almost necessary spares
Don't forget a can of WD40 to spray on your tires (as in Father Of The Bride)
so that you can leave a smoking trail and a black streak.
Rudy
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 22:16:37 +0200
Subject: front spring compression
Ok.... I just RTFM.. as instructed..... on the bottom of the pring you will
find a plate secured with 4 bolts.. take out two.... replace by 3/8 x 1 inch
all-thread bolts... remove the two remaining short ones.. and unscrew.. now..
thats what the manual says.... however... i found an EASY way to do it.. I
wount say its safe.. but its easy.. and I'll do it again any day.... NP.....
when your car is up .. off the ground with front wheels anyway.... put a jack
under the spring-cup...-(might do like I did.. had a 2 by 4 on top).. and jack
untill spring starts to compress.. then.. remove ALL 4 bolts.. then retract the
jack..VOILA!....
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7 and yes.. I just did it on BOTH front springs.. NP.....
Alan Hantke wrote:
> >
>
> > Now for a more basic question... how do you compress a front spring
> > when the car is off of the ground. I'm told that you can get a couple
> > of all-thread rods, but where do you place them, etc.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > --Alan
>
>
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 13:42:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Around The World Rally
Try driving around with thongs on (thongs on the feet boys) it'll burn the
hair of your toes...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: <ccruz@tribune.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 12:35 PM
Subject: Around The World Rally
>
> << I see that the ATW Rally is in the Atlas Mountains (Morocco) and
> the temperatureIN THE SHADE is 54 degrees Celsius - that's nearly
> 130F. >>
>
> So is the temperature in my Healey...What's the big deal?
>
> Carlos Cruz
>
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 16:41:47 -0400
Subject: Re: paint code
Lee wrote:
I can understand a few
> of the radical fringe that are re-building cars for concours getting all
> spun up about the "perfect original paint match
FWIW, the Concours standards judging guidelines regarding colour accuracy
reads "a reasonable attempt at accuracy".
No one on my judging field is going to get "all spun up" about a perfect
original paint match, because there really isn't one today. We are all
compromising to varying degrees as soon as we have to substitute the
components that make up a paint formula with what is available and legal
today.
The "concours" word gets enough of a beating. I would like to try to convey
where we are coming from.
The National Concours Standards we have evolved up to this point are there
to assist folks to get as accurate a car as possible IF they so choose.
And believe it or not there's a lot of fun and satisfaction in helping folks
get it right.
See you all at Conclave!
Rich Chrysler
From ccruz at tribune.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 15:59:00 -0500
Subject: RE: Around The World Rally
Neil, on behalf of Healey owners the world over: Thank you so much
for the clarification and the G**-awful image in my brain.
Fortunately time cures all wounds.
Have a great weekend gang!
Carlos Cruz
______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
Subject: Re: Around The World Rally
Author: "Neil Trelenberg" <SMTP:neilberg@telus.net> at Chicago-Tower
Date: 7/14/00 3:42 PM
Try driving around with thongs on (thongs on the feet boys) it'll burn the
hair of your toes...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: <ccruz@tribune.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 12:35 PM
Subject: Around The World Rally
>
> << I see that the ATW Rally is in the Atlas Mountains (Morocco) and
> the temperatureIN THE SHADE is 54 degrees Celsius - that's nearly
> 130F. >>
>
> So is the temperature in my Healey...What's the big deal?
>
> Carlos Cruz
>
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 17:19:52 -0400
Subject: Re: paint code
I think you mis-interpreted my question. I can see why folks re-building
for Concours standards have to strive for something as close as possible,
but I noted some folks who said they own "drivers" worrying about "exact"
match also. As a new Healey owner (Porsche silver over dark
chocolate(almost black) I was worried if my colors somehow degraded the car.
My question was definitely not intended to be a slam at Concours folks,
despite the tongue-in-cheek reference to "radical fringe".
Lee
62 BT-7 Tri-carb
-----Original Message-----
From: RL Chrysler <lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
To: Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA <fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com>; 'Lee S. Mairs'
<lmairs@ix.netcom.com>; austin healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, July 14, 2000 4:46 PM
Subject: Re: paint code
>Lee wrote:
>I can understand a few
>> of the radical fringe that are re-building cars for concours getting all
>> spun up about the "perfect original paint match
>
>FWIW, the Concours standards judging guidelines regarding colour accuracy
>reads "a reasonable attempt at accuracy".
>No one on my judging field is going to get "all spun up" about a perfect
>original paint match, because there really isn't one today. We are all
>compromising to varying degrees as soon as we have to substitute the
>components that make up a paint formula with what is available and legal
>today.
>The "concours" word gets enough of a beating. I would like to try to convey
>where we are coming from.
>The National Concours Standards we have evolved up to this point are there
>to assist folks to get as accurate a car as possible IF they so choose.
>And believe it or not there's a lot of fun and satisfaction in helping
folks
>get it right.
>See you all at Conclave!
>Rich Chrysler
>
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 15:18:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Around The World Rally
Neil
Surely this is the alternative use ;-)
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Neil Trelenberg wrote:
>
> Try driving around with thongs on (thongs on the feet boys) it'll burn the
> hair of your toes...Neil
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ccruz@tribune.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 12:35 PM
> Subject: Around The World Rally
>
> >
> > << I see that the ATW Rally is in the Atlas Mountains (Morocco) and
> > the temperatureIN THE SHADE is 54 degrees Celsius - that's nearly
> > 130F. >>
> >
> > So is the temperature in my Healey...What's the big deal?
> >
> > Carlos Cruz
> >
From "Chris Woodall" <cwoodall at mnsi.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 17:43:16 -0400
Subject: Spring Compression
Just did both front springs using heavy duty (3/4" rod) sliding carpenters
clamps. One on each side of the spring. Works the same as the rod, with
less effort.
Chris Woodall
60 BT7
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 16:56:20 -0500
Subject: Fwd: various recent topics as captionedww
----- Original Message -----
From: jwbn6@iopener.net
To: healeys@autox.team.netva
Subject: various recent topics as captionedww
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 16:14:23 -0500
wiring harnesses
if installing a new cotton loomed harness, spray the cotton good with
Scotchguard. let thouroughly dry before installation. this will make future
engine compartment cleanups easy plus the scotchguard protects the looming.
spare tubes
if you go through tubes like some of the guys do in texas, 4 or 5 would serve
you much better than one. fortunately my bn6 has minilites and runs round and
tubeless.
gear ratios, od's and such
in my opinion, every healey should have come with a 3.54 rear axle ratio, a 28%
od [ 100-6] and run 175x15 michelin radials.
jerry wall rockwall,tx.
From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 18:03:13 EDT
Subject: scuttle shake remedy-phase one
Had my driveshaft out and replaced the U-joints and had the thing balanced
prior to putting it back in the car. The shake that I had from 55-65 has
decreased by about 50%. The guy that balanced the shaft said it was off by a
fair amount for a driveshaft so short. He balanced it by tack welding a
washer the size of a quarter near the rear end of the shaft. When I first
brought it to him and told him about the scuttle shake he said "no wonder
since this shaft was hand made and not original to the car" . I told him it
was and he scatched his head a bit and gave it a closer look and then agreed
with me by saying, "Those Brits sure do things differently over there." I
am having the rear wheels balanced on the car next week and he assured me
that I would see a big difference at speed. I'll let those of you who are
interested know of the results next week. Gary S. 67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
From RobertH148 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 18:12:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake Bleeding
<< Hi, Listers
Some time ago there was a thread on brake bleeding devices.
Unfortunately, I can't find it. Would someone suggest what "bleeders"
are available, and perhaps which works best, please?
DON
BJ8 Pandora
>>
I use a Mighty Vac. It pulls the fluid through the system and you don't need
someone else to press the pedals. It is recommended by some manufacturers -
i.e. Volvo.
They claim that if the pedal is pressed too far down, it will push the seals
past the slight build-up in the cylinder, break some loose and possibly
damage the seals.
Mighty Vacs are available through many retailers. They come with and without
a vacuum gauge. The one with the gauge can be used to test vacuum lines for
line loses.
Bob Humphreys
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 17:14:10 -0500
Subject: Funny gas tank story (no Healey)
Hi all,
This is not a Healey story; but it could be. Ten or more years ago, I
was working restoring Volkswagens with a buddy of mine I'll call Chip
('cause that's his name). A customer who had recently bought a Beetle came
in to complain to the boss that the car had been killing every few miles,
and wouldn't restart until she let it sit for a little while, then the car
would run perfectly for a few more miles. You get the idea. So, we bring the
car around the back, disconnect the fuel line from the carb. No fuel. We
disconnect the line from the tank, blow into it, clogged. No problem. Get
out the air hose. 100 psi into the line. BWONG! Clear. Hook it back up, and
the customer leaves. Five minutes later, she's back. Screaming. "When I came
in here I had 3/4 of a tank of gas, now it's only 1/4." So we bring the car
back again, open the trunk to see the gas tank is blown up into the
aforementioned sphere. Seems some idiot forgot to remove the filler cap
before applying the air pressure. The fuel sending unit is attached to the
top of the tank like a Healey, so when the tank got 'taller' the float
dropped lower. Only one thing to do. Chip whacked the top of the tank with
the rubber mallard (as he called it) while I called out the reading on the
gauge. BWANG, "Nearly half." BWANG, "Over half," BWANG, "Three quarters.
That's it!" At which point Chip yells "Hell, why don't we hit it a few more
times and give her a full tank?" amid hysterical laughter. We told her the
sending unit had stuck.----Peter
From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 19:35:34 EDT
Subject: Re: paint code
In a message dated 07/14/2000 3:33:41 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
lmairs@ix.netcom.com writes:
<<
I think you mis-interpreted my question. I can see why folks re-building
for Concours standards have to strive for something as close as possible,
but I noted some folks who said they own "drivers" worrying about "exact"
match also. As a new Healey owner (Porsche silver over dark
chocolate(almost black) I was worried if my colors somehow degraded the car.
My question was definitely not intended to be a slam at Concours folks,
despite the tongue-in-cheek reference to "radical fringe". >>
If you decide to sell a "driver" one day down the road, should it be a good,
solid car and the prospective new owner has interest in concours quality,
having an original color will save him taking it all down to repaint. THus,
it could bring a higher price. OF course, the first issue iw whether the
metal repair has been done properly and the car is totally solid. If not,
then it will have to come apart to fix things right, and the color won't
matter.
It is much easier to "finish" off details if the basic car is correct.
Interior trim can be swapped, individual bits can be "upgraded", etc. THe
wiring carness can be replaced, but that is probably the most difficult task
on a "completed" car I can think of.
Roger
From Bob McElwee <bobmac at i1.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 19:02:26 -0500
Subject: Wiring Harness - Headlights
Listeners,
Just received new headlights from a 'well know' parts house. Colors on
wiring harness leading to the headlights are UW (blue/white), UR
(blue/red), and B (black) which matches the wiring diagram. Colors on
the headlight harness are blue, yellow and red.
Any help on what goes to what would be greatly appreciated.
TIA
bob mc
62 BT7
From "Robert Barback" <tippytoo at eatel.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 19:54:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Electrical harness for a '59 3000 MK1 BN7 and etc....
Having just finished re wiring my fathers car this week may I add the
following . Get new all new wiring
and get a six circuit fuse box from the local parts or marine store. It
makes wiring a lot simpler and
seperate fuses for each circuit ..What a concept ........ It makes
troubleshooting on the road at a later date much easier. I also used
flexable Electrical Conduit to run the wires under the car both the main
power lead from the battery and the lighting circuit wires going to the
rear. 1/2 inch works great. I ran it from the
firewall under the car to the fuel pump following all the same run I just
changed the clamps to hold the conduit.
Also ran it in the trunk along the fuel tank .
Robert
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 18:08:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Brake Bleeding
Hi Don,
I use the EZ Bleed system. Works great, just don't use too much pressure
or over tighten the cap (the gasket can get deformed). The best deal I
found was at r.d. enterprises, ltd.
http://www.enter.net/~rdent/ Look under tools. $27.95
Regards,
John
RobertH148@aol.com wrote:
>
> << Hi, Listers
>Some time ago there was a thread on brake bleeding devices.
> Unfortunately, I can't find it. Would someone suggest what "bleeders"
> are available, and perhaps which works best, please?
>
> DON
> BJ8 Pandora
> >>
From "Mark Goodman" <mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 10:27:14 -0400
Subject: RE: SERVO
I rebuild my brake servo and it was painless. The only "problem" was to get
the dry lubricant which was expensive for only using a very small amount.
Instead of shaving down the foam piston seal, I went to my local hobby store
that sells remote control airplanes and got some silicone tubing that fit
perfectly, and did not "hang up" the piston. The tubing is only there to
keep the leather seal from "folding over", so a perfect fit is not an
absolute necessity. Make sure that you test the piston for free travel
before you reinstall the servo, rather than have to do it twice due to the
piston hanging up and keeping the brakes activated.
Mark A. Goodman
66 BJ8 35503
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 20:58:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Wiring Harness - Headlights
hi bob-- you must have received some of those daimler sp250 headlamps.
happy healeying,
jerry wall
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob McElwee <bobmac@i1.net>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Wiring Harness - Headlights
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 19:02:26 -0500
Listeners,
Just received new headlights from a 'well know' parts house. Colors on
wiring harness leading to the headlights are UW (blue/white), UR
(blue/red), and B (black) which matches the wiring diagram. Colors on
the headlight harness are blue, yellow and red.
Any help on what goes to what would be greatly appreciated.
TIA
bob mc
62 BT7
From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 22:28:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Add to your spares list
Amen, use it for both.
RJA
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at slip.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 21:09:44 -0700
Subject: Prop-shaft U-Joints; was: scuttle shake remedy-phase one
The older gent that balanced my driveshaft and drums (Rettig Bros. - Modesto,
CA)
informed my dad that the U-joint yokes I needed were the same as for a Volvo
(don't know which model, P1800 maybe?).
They were about $30 (each), as opposed to the $120 (each) or so Moss, VB, etc.
want.
Perfect match.
bs
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rebeltown@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 3:03 PM
Subject: scuttle shake remedy-phase one
>
> Had my driveshaft out and replaced the U-joints and had the thing balanced
> prior to putting it back in the car. The shake that I had from 55-65 has
> decreased by about 50%. The guy that balanced the shaft said it was off by a
> fair amount for a driveshaft so short. He balanced it by tack welding a
> washer the size of a quarter near the rear end of the shaft. When I first
> brought it to him and told him about the scuttle shake he said "no wonder
> since this shaft was hand made and not original to the car" . I told him it
> was and he scatched his head a bit and gave it a closer look and then agreed
> with me by saying, "Those Brits sure do things differently over there." I
> am having the rear wheels balanced on the car next week and he assured me
> that I would see a big difference at speed. I'll let those of you who are
> interested know of the results next week. Gary S. 67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
>
>
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at slip.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 21:11:22 -0700
Subject: Re: various recent topics as captionedww
Jerry Wall wrote:
> if installing a new cotton loomed harness, spray the cotton good with
>Scotchguard.
Better get it now, heard the other day 3M is taking Scotchguard off the market.
bs
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 2:56 PM
Subject: Fwd: various recent topics as captionedww
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: jwbn6@iopener.net
> To: healeys@autox.team.netva
> Subject: various recent topics as captionedww
> Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 16:14:23 -0500
>
> wiring harnesses
>
> if installing a new cotton loomed harness, spray the cotton good with
>Scotchguard. let
thouroughly dry before installation. this will make future engine compartment
cleanups easy plus
the scotchguard protects the looming.
>
> spare tubes
>
> if you go through tubes like some of the guys do in texas, 4 or 5 would serve
>you much better than
one. fortunately my bn6 has minilites and runs round and tubeless.
>
> gear ratios, od's and such
>
> in my opinion, every healey should have come with a 3.54 rear axle ratio, a
>28% od [ 100-6] and
run 175x15 michelin radials.
>
> jerry wall rockwall,tx.
>
>
>
From "Don Gschwind" <DGSCHWIND at prodigy.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 01:20:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Electrical harness for a '59 3000 MK1 BN7 - REALLY LONG
Hi, Gary
The first step I took rewiring my BJ8 was to go to the local
print shop and magnify the circuit diagram from the Workshop Manual to
11" x 17". It was much easier to trace specific wires through the
"maze".
DON
BJ8 Pandora
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 12:30 PM
Subject: Re: Electrical harness for a '59 3000 MK1 BN7 - REALLY LONG
>
>
> In a message dated 7/14/00 7:58:07 AM, ccruz@tribune.com writes:
>
> << Now make sure no one is looking, as to
> not embarrass yourself or your neighbors (if the garage door is
> open). Contort your body so that your lying on your back on
the
> floor of your cockpit with your head in the foot well looking
up to
> the underside of the dash and your feet resting on the rear
shroud.
> Snip off the old harness leaving a couple of inches of the old
> harness wires at their connection points. Start from your
oil/temp
> gage and work your way toward your left (the car's right). Do
one
> gage at a time and don't forget the grounds. >>
>
> Terriffic write-up and well worth being provided to the Healey
magazines with
> a suitable set of pictures, if available -- wiring harnesses are one
of the
> worst areas of unrestored Healeys as sources of untraceable demons
and worth
> replacing if one does nothing else. Except that the job seems
almost
> mystical in nature until you've done it, to be partially conducted
in the
> fourth dimension.
>
> HOWEVER, I would suggest one thing to make your job easier: At the
point that
> you're ready to do the instrument panel: remove the steering wheel,
then
> remove all four gauges. Working through the big access holes left
by the
> tach and speedo, hook everything else up -- you may have to get on
your back
> only once or twice. Then at the very end hook up the two big gauges
and
> install them.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
From "John Macartney" <jonmac at ndirect.co.uk>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 23:01:26 +0100
Subject: ATW Rally
DickB wrote
I see that the ATW Rally is in the Atlas Mountains (Morocco) and the
temperature IN THE
SHADE is 54 degrees Celsius - that's nearly 130F.
Seems incredible but true. In those temperatures its not unknown for cars to
suffer from
spontaneous combustion of the fuel OUTSIDE the engine - and I speak from very
memorable
personal experience. Never mind, they'll be home soon and guess who's going to
London to
welcome them back. I saw the Hunts car in Feb 99 at Gaydon as a very unrestored
wreck and
it's a tribute to Ann and Peter for all the detailed preparatory work they did
before
leaving England - and for the marvellous support they've received en route.
Jonmac
From ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit at juno.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 01:59:52 -0400
Subject: While speeding to Indy
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From: DWV321@aol.com
To: Broycon@aol.com, ICKDON@N-LINK.com, dpi@direcpc.com, CKV8@aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 14:49:00 EDT
Subject: Fwd: [Fwd: sounds interesting]
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landing@home.com
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 21:34:54 -0700
Subject: [Fwd: sounds interesting]
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From: Andy Meuleman <andy.meuleman@juno.com>
To: HerbCarlson@home.com
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 06:49:17 -0700
Subject: sound interesting Herb...
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--------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Samhstud@aol.com
To: LilBo98@aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 09:42:12 EDT
Subject: INFO
Message-ID: <a5.76e9bdc.2680ceb4@aol.com>
In a message dated 6/15/00 4:29:59 PM Pacific Daylight Time, MRG1946
writes:
I don't know if this is true, but it's worth a shot!
<< < If You Get A. Traffic Ticket
This has been tried and it works.....
Send this to everyone you know. It is said for a fact
this works so if you ever get in this situation, you have an out.
This procedure works in every state.
Read it and try it, you have nothing to lose but the
points on your license.
If you get a speeding ticket or went through a red
light or whatever the case
may be, and you are going to get points on your
license, then there is a method to ensure that you DO NOT get any
points.
When you get your fine, send in the check to pay for
it and if the fine is say, $79, then make the check out for $82 or
some small amount over the fine. The system will then have to send
you back a check for the difference, but here is the trick! DO NOT
CASH THE REFUND CHECK! Throw it away!
Points are not assessed to your license until
all financial transactions are complete. If you do not cash the
check, then the transactions are NOT complete. However, the system
has gotten its money and is happy and will not bother you anymore.
This information comes from an unmentionable computer
company that sets up the standard database used by each states DMV.
Good luck! >> >>
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----__JNP_000_12b8.021f.07ff--
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 10:52:47 +0100
Subject: RE: front spring compression
Make up 4 all-thread rods. Can't remember the
length. Have a look and use yr. common sense.
ie make them too long at first-not too short.
1) Substitute one for the bolt in situ in and tighten it up.
2) Repeat 3 times.
3) Loosen them off. Bit by bit ie loosen one a few turns, then
the one opposite, then the next etcetc.
4) Keep going round the 4 until the whole assembly slackens off.
I've seen people talk about using 3 and quite small guage at that.
Bearing in mind that the whole issue will cost peanuts, I'd use 4
big ones.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John Loftus
> Sent: 13 July 2000 17:14
> To: Alan Hantke
> Cc: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
> Subject: Re: front spring compression
>
>
>
> Hi Alan,
>
> I don't recall seeing anyone answer your question. I've never compressed
> a Healey front spring but I think this is the general procedure. If I'm
> wrong, someone will surely correct me or add additional information.
>
> Use all-thread rods of sufficient length to accommodate the uncompressed
> spring and use them instead of the 4 spring plate bolts. Tighten the
> nuts on the all-thread rod in sequence to compress the spring. Remove
> one of the threaded rods and replace with a spring plate bolt. Repeat
> for the 3 remaining rods. Of course the "righter" way is to use a coil
> spring compressor!
>
> Regards,
> John
>
>
>
> Alan Hantke wrote:
> >
>
> > Now for a more basic question... how do you compress a front spring
> > when the car is off of the ground. I'm told that you can get a couple
> > of all-thread rods, but where do you place them, etc.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > --Alan
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 08:02:29 EDT
Subject: Need some addresses
Hi Healey listers,
I need the email addresses for one or more of the following members of the
AHCA Driving Award Committee:
Bill Eberson, Jim Albeck, Don Lenschow and Roger Hamel
Thanks,
Rudy Streng
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 09:07:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Insulation - ShippingCharges
To all of you who have written me FROM OUTSIDE THE UNITED STATES and asked
about the Char-Broil Smoker Blankets -
I took two units to my local post office yesterday and here are some US Postal
charges:
Australia - $27.75 AIR/17.47 Surface
New Zealand - same as Australia
Canada - $8.36 AIR/6.36 Surface
Germany - $19.20 AIR/11.86 Surface
UK - $19.20/11.96 Surface
So if you want two Smoker Blankets send me $6.00 each for the blankets ($12.00)
plus the above Postage and indiate on your order whether you want me to ship
AIR or Surface.
Again my address is : 1400 Rice Creek Road NE, Fridley, MN 55432, USA.
Regards,
Dick Brill
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 09:16:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Electrical harness for a '59 3000 MK1 BN7 and etc....
Gary
As I recall the Hunts used a Lucas and Price/Onyett used a Nissan, but it
could have been a Lucas also. Welsh show an Alternator,Belt and Bracket as a
Kit in his Catalog, I believe - or maybe just the Alternator and Belt as one
unit and the Bracket as another.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> In a message dated 7/13/00 4:52:21 PM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
>
> << Both of the Healeys in Team Healey ATW had alternators and used brackets
> by Denis Welch. >>
>
> Thanks for the note -- Good to know that Welch is making this part --I've
> seen everything from slipping a bolt with a bunch of washers through the old
> slot and hanging the new alternator on it, to home-made brackets. imho it
> needs to be specially made -- did you also happen to notice which alternator
> they used?
> Cheers
> gary
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 09:20:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Electrical harness for a '59 3000 MK1 BN7 and etc....
Gary
As I recall the Hunts used a Lucas and Price/Onyett used a Nissan, but it
could have been a Lucas also. Welsh show an Alternator,Belt and Bracket as a
Kit in his Catalog, I believe - or maybe just the Alternator and Belt as one
unit and the Bracket as another.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> In a message dated 7/13/00 4:52:21 PM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
>
> << Both of the Healeys in Team Healey ATW had alternators and used brackets
> by Denis Welch. >>
>
> Thanks for the note -- Good to know that Welch is making this part --I've
> seen everything from slipping a bolt with a bunch of washers through the old
> slot and hanging the new alternator on it, to home-made brackets. imho it
> needs to be specially made -- did you also happen to notice which alternator
> they used?
> Cheers
> gary
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 10:16:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Electrical harness for a '59 3000 MK1 BN7 and etc....
In a message dated 7/15/2000 08:28:58 Central Daylight Time,
dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<< Thanks for the note -- Good to know that Welch is making this part --I've
> seen everything from slipping a bolt with a bunch of washers through the
old
> slot and hanging the new alternator on it, to home-made brackets. imho it
> needs to be specially made -- did you also happen to notice which
alternator
> they used? >>
For 12 years or more, I have made available a bracket kit that uses a Delco
internel regulated alternator. For 6 cylinder cars only. This alternator is
more common than Fire Ants in Texas. I'll see if I can load some pictures of
it to the NTAHC site. <http://www.ntahc.austin1.com> I have had one on a BJ8
for over 12 years and it works great. No permanent modification to the car.
Go back to original when you want.
From "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc at earthlink.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 08:43:06 -0700
Subject: Re: Diff. gearing vs. O/D
As I understand the Healey overdrives, they come in two sets of gears. The
early Healeys have a 28% overdrive and the later ones have a 22%.
On the top of overdrive housing (tunnel cover needs removal) the brass tag
has a serial number. The first two digits are either a 22 or a 28 for the
overdrive ratio. Yes, the internal gears can be changed without changing
the housing, so the 22 may exist with 28 gears installed.
How to tell without taking your car apart? From my experience, the way to
tell is by the number or Rpm's your engine drops in 4th gear when the OD is
engaged. The 28% drops about 1000 RPM and the 22% drops about 700 RPM.
(additional comments confirming this are welcome).
To elaborate, the early cars also have a 4.11 differential ratio. Of the 4-5
of these cars I have driven, they have the 28% overdrive. The later cars
have the 22% overdrive with a 3.90 differential.
My car is a BN2 with a 4.11 differential and a 28% overdrive. This weekend
I am installing a 3.90 differential and by next weekend I will have a road
test for comparison.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 12:03 PM
Subject: Re: Diff. gearing vs. O/D
>
>
> In a message dated 7/13/00 8:07:13 PM, bspidell@slip.net writes:
>
> << I know modifying an O/D would be more work, but you'd get the reduced
RPM
> on the
> highway without changing the around-town drivability.
>
> Anyone tried this?
>
> Bob >>
>
> Speaking from memory, there are two overdrive ratios. The only reason I
know
> this is that the ratio that gives higher final speed relative to rpm (is
that
> a "higher" ratio or a "lower" ratio) was installed in my 59 BN7 after I
> exploded the gears on my original o/d. It is fantastic at highway speeds
> --I now sit at between 3000 and 3400 at comfortable to scary highway
speeds
> in top o/d and still have good get-away umph around town or when I
downshift
> to pass slower cars.
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
>
From "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc at earthlink.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 08:45:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Air Conditioning
FYI, at least four of the club Healeys in So Calif have air conditioning
installed. It works out real well.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
----- Original Message -----
From: <STOCKLAND@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 7:56 AM
Subject: Air Conditioning
>
> Although our AH autos do not have air conditioning, I have a question that
> has been bugging me. Our home air conditioners require filter changes
> several times during the year, however, air conditioned autos do not have
> filters to protect the cooling coils from dust. What is the deal?
>
> Thanks for your comments.
>
> Jon
>
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 12:07:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Diff. gearing vs. O/D
<How to tell without taking your car apart? From my experience, the way to
tell is by the number or Rpm's your engine drops in 4th gear when the OD is
engaged. The 28% drops about 1000 RPM and the 22% drops about 700 RPM.
(additional comments confirming this are welcome).>
You are on the right track Jim regarding the RPM drop but it is important to
remember tht the drop is a percentage not an absolute number. This means that
the RPM drop is proportional to RPM.
If you can read you tachometer accurately enough the 28% OD reduces RPM by 28%
and the 22% OD by 22%.
--
Regards,
Mike "I don't do math" Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 12:10:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Wiring Harness - Headlights
Jerry,
Are Daimler SP250 Headlamps any different than any other Sealed beams? Or was
this an Extremely subtle Dig at my deceased SP?------- ;>)
Bob, SOP is one prong/lead from the sealed beam unit is ground, one is for the
Low filament and one is for the High filament.
Put a continuity light on the High beam lead from your dipper switch -
color-coded according to the wiring diagram - and attach that one to the
prong/lead from that lights up the High beam filament on the sealed beam.
You can run a temporary feed from battery + to either of the two prongs/leads
that are Not Ground to identify which is which.
Dick Brill
---- you wrote:
>
> hi bob-- you must have received some of those daimler sp250 headlamps.
>
> happy healeying,
>
> jerry wall
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: Bob McElwee <bobmac@i1.net>
> To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Wiring Harness - Headlights
> Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 19:02:26 -0500
>
>
> Listeners,
> Just received new headlights from a 'well know' parts house. Colors on
> wiring harness leading to the headlights are UW (blue/white), UR
> (blue/red), and B (black) which matches the wiring diagram. Colors on
> the headlight harness are blue, yellow and red.
> Any help on what goes to what would be greatly appreciated.
> TIA
> bob mc
> 62 BT7
>
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 10:51:24 -0600
Subject: Re: Diff. gearing vs. O/D
Additionally, some of the early cars were fitted with a 32% reduction O/D.
Seems that's the gear set to find, as it relates to this long thread of
discussions.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 13:56:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: NOT LBC content
> > > In case you needed further proof that the human
> > race is doomed through
> > > stupidity, here are some actual label instructions
> > on consumer goods.
> > > 1.. On a Sears hairdryer: "Do not use while
> > sleeping". (Gee, that's
> > > the only time I have to work on my hair)
> > >
> > > 2.. On a bag of Fritos: "You could be a winner! No
> > purchase
> > > necessary. Details inside". (Evidently, the
> > shoplifter special)
> > >
> > > 3.. On a bar of Dial soap: "Directions: Use like
> > regular soap." (And
> > > that would be how...?)
> > >
> > > 4.. On some Swanson frozen dinners: "Serving
> > suggestions: Defrost."
> > > (but, it's "just" a suggestion)
> > >
> > > 5.. On Tesco's Tiramisu dessert (printed on bottom
> > of box): "Do not
> > > turn upside down". (Oops, too late!)
> > >
> > > 6.. On Marks & Spencer Bread Pudding: "Product
> > will be hot after
> > > heating". (As night follows the day...)
> > >
> > > 7.. On packaging for a Rowenta iron: "Do not
> > iron clothes on body".
> > > (But wouldn't this save even more time?)
> > >
> > > 8.. On Boot's Children's Cough Medicine: "Do
> > not drive a car or
> > > operate machinery after taking this
> > medication". (We could do a lot
> > to
> > > reduce the rate of construction accidents if
> > we could just get those
> > > 5-year-olds with head colds off those
> > forklifts.)
> > >
> > > 9.. On Nytol Sleep Aid: "Warning: May cause
> > drowsiness". (One would
> > > hope)
> > > 10.. On most brands of Christmas lights: "For
> > indoor or outdoor use
> > > only". (As opposed to what?)
> > >
> > > 11.. On a Japanese food processor: "Not to be
> > used for the other
> > > use". (I gotta admit, I'm curious).
> > >
> > > 12.. On Sainsbury's peanuts: "Warning: Contains
> > nuts". (NEWS FLASH)
> > >
> > > 13.. On an American Airlines packet of nuts:
> > "Instructions: Open
> > > packet, eat nuts." (Step 3: Fly Delta)
> > >
> > > 14.. On a child's Superman costume: "Wearing of
> > this garment does
> > > not enable you to fly". (I don't blame the
> > company-I blame parents for
> > > this one).
> > >
> > > 15...On a Swedish chain saw: "Do not attempt to
> > stop chain saw with
> > > your hands or genitals". (Was there a chance of
> > this happening
> > > somewhere?...Good grief)
From "Jim Briske" <jbriske at onemain.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 12:29:24 -0700
Subject: Travel to Rendezvous 2000 at Ocean Shores Wa.
Hi, Is anyone leaving on July 23 from Reno/ northeastern Ca. ??? Please
contact me off the list. Thanks Jim Briske BT7
From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 11:51:13 -0400
Subject: Re:Car Hop
Hi,
To those members of T.A.C.H. on the list. Our next Saturday Nite Car Hop
will be at Smitty's Better Burgers, 1313 N. King Street, Hampton VA on
Saturday the 29th of July. We'll start gathering at 6:00 p.m. Although a
Healey club we welcome anyone with a British sports car to join us. If
you have questions drop me a post. Look forward to seeing you 'all.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 15:23:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake Bleeding
Glad to hear your approval for the Mity-Vac. I bought one but I haven't
used it yet. A lister recently said that they didn't work that well. I
figured another $70.00 down the drain. What a relief.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 17:20:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Air Conditioning
In a message dated 7/15/00 11:55:18 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
coryleblanc@earthlink.net writes:
<< FYI, at least four of the club Healeys in So Calif have air conditioning
installed. It works out real well. >>
Years ago I had a BT7 when living in Miami, Fl. I had a guy install an AC
which blew cold air out, but because the windows were untinted, the top
paper-thin and black and the usual hot-air leaks from the engine compartment
continued to do their thing the result was nil.
Michael
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 15:26:50 -0400
Subject: Re: front spring compression
I hate to disagree with you but I've been using two and have had no
problems. And if I had a dollar for everytime I removed them I'd be rich.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
-----Original Message-----
From: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk>
To: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>; Alan Hantke <Alan_Hantke@i2.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, July 15, 2000 6:08 AM
Subject: RE: front spring compression
>
>Make up 4 all-thread rods. Can't remember the
>length. Have a look and use yr. common sense.
>ie make them too long at first-not too short.
>1) Substitute one for the bolt in situ in and tighten it up.
>2) Repeat 3 times.
>3) Loosen them off. Bit by bit ie loosen one a few turns, then
>the one opposite, then the next etcetc.
>4) Keep going round the 4 until the whole assembly slackens off.
>
>I've seen people talk about using 3 and quite small guage at that.
>Bearing in mind that the whole issue will cost peanuts, I'd use 4
>big ones.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
>> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John Loftus
>> Sent: 13 July 2000 17:14
>> To: Alan Hantke
>> Cc: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
>> Subject: Re: front spring compression
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi Alan,
>>
>> I don't recall seeing anyone answer your question. I've never compressed
>> a Healey front spring but I think this is the general procedure. If I'm
>> wrong, someone will surely correct me or add additional information.
>>
>> Use all-thread rods of sufficient length to accommodate the uncompressed
>> spring and use them instead of the 4 spring plate bolts. Tighten the
>> nuts on the all-thread rod in sequence to compress the spring. Remove
>> one of the threaded rods and replace with a spring plate bolt. Repeat
>> for the 3 remaining rods. Of course the "righter" way is to use a coil
>> spring compressor!
>>
>> Regards,
>> John
>>
>>
>>
>> Alan Hantke wrote:
>> >
>>
>> > Now for a more basic question... how do you compress a front spring
>> > when the car is off of the ground. I'm told that you can get a couple
>> > of all-thread rods, but where do you place them, etc.
>> >
>> > Thanks,
>> > --Alan
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 18:51:30 EDT
Subject: Re: paint code
In a message dated 7/14/00 1:33:41 PM, lmairs@ix.netcom.com writes:
<< As a new Healey owner (Porsche silver over dark
chocolate(almost black) I was worried if my colors somehow degraded the car.
My question was definitely not intended to be a slam at Concours folks,
despite the tongue-in-cheek reference to "radical fringe". >>
There is no vigilante committee that is going to come around to burn old
motor oil on your front porch to punish you for not using original colors. On
the contrary, most wives and many husbands will come by and compliment you on
your "pretty" car.
The only issue regarding use of original colors is that it WILL have an
effect on resale, if you should have to sell your car. With some color
choices, it might attract a buyer (and cause his wife to support his
decision) but with other choices (my wife insists I have no color sense
whatsover) it could very well turn some buyers away.
On the other hand, if it is one of the original colors, no one is likely to
quibble.
Just my two/hundredths of a Sacajawea.
Cheers
Gary
From JBrown5093 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 08:00:30 EDT
Subject: Re: paint code
Just a thought on original colors. I worked in a Socony Mobil paint factory
in NJ. for a couple of summers in the early 60's. Paint then was made by
batches the formula of which only approximated the original. Pigments were
then added by hand ( often in 25 lb. bags) by very skilled men called
shaders. They would try to match a wet sample of the new batch to several old
wet samples. The new paint was then painted (sprayed and brushed) on several
small piecses of metal and wood at the same time as several samples of the
old paint were painted. They were air dryed or baked and the shader would
inspect them in several different lights and then add pigment to the large
batch to try to make the new and old match. They were highly skilled, a wrong
guess as to color or amount and hundreds of gallons were wasted. Colors from
batch to batch were rarely spot on and after a summer even I could begin to
see the differences. I got good enough to tell which new cars had their doors
painted before before assembly with different paint batches. My Healey Blue
100 (original) was subtly different from several others of the same year in
the area. So there is really no "original" of any color of that era with the
exception of the original first batch sample. Jim Brown BT7 (Fla.
green/white-I think) BJ8 (Col red/black -yes blacks were also shaded-I think)
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 13:32:33 +0100
Subject: RE: front spring compression & matches and gas tanks.
Friend of mine landed his fighter, in Aden/
Standing by plane and lit up a ciggie.
The Sergeant Fitter said " You can't smoke here sir."
Especially as the jet was dripping fuel.
Friend's immortal words "Don't be silly. That stuff needs
a match to set it off" and threw his cigarette into the puddle of fuel.
Well, the tarmac in Aden was verrrry hot and the fuel was ready to
go at that heat.
Puddle lit. Engine lit. Fighter lit. Friend court martialled.
I think it was a Hawker Hunter. Hardly state of the art, even then.
But perfect for anti-guerilla ground attack per the Aden Insurgency.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Scheuble, Fred J.
> ,HiServ/NA
> Sent: 14 July 2000 19:47
> To: 'Michael Salter'; Peter Brauen
> Cc: John Loftus; Healey List
> Subject: RE: front spring compression
>
>
>
> that's as bad as somebody I know (knew) who used a lighted match
> to check if
> he had gas in his 60 vette
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Salter [mailto:magicare@home.com]
> Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 2:10 PM
> To: Peter Brauen
> Cc: John Loftus; Healey List
> Subject: Re: front spring compression
>
>
>
> I second that!!!!
> Somewhat akin to welding a gas tank. Ask Bruce at the Healey
> Surgeons about
> that
> one;-)
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> Peter Brauen wrote:
>
> > Hi Alan,
> > John is correct, the all-thread rod method works fine. Just get
> yourself
> > a ratcheting wrench as it takes a while, and once it gets
> halfway even a
> > deep socket won't fit. There is no affordable spring compressor that I
> have
> > seen that will do the job as the shock tower interferes with
> most of them,
> > and you can't get the internal type back out. Here is how NOT
> to do it. I
> > was visiting a long time British car mechanic a few months ago. He was
> doing
> > some work on the front suspension of a BJ8. When I went into
> his work area
> I
> > found his assistant with one of the front springs in the shop press! He
> was
> > apparently trying to compress the spring and then secure it with some
> cable.
> > Needless to say, I left the room immediately. I was assured
> that they have
> > done this for years. About five minutes later I heard
> "SPROING...CRASH" as
> > the cables both slipped round to one side of the spring and the spring
> shot
> > out of the press and across the room. It narrowly missed the mechanic.
> That
> > was when I told him the right way to do it. Coil springs in compression
> can
> > KILL if they get loose, so keeping the spring contained in the
> suspension
> > arms is by far safest way to install it. Hope this helps someone avoid
> > injury. ---Peter (BMC Restorations)
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
> > To: Alan Hantke <Alan_Hantke@i2.com>
> > Cc: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Date: Thursday, July 13, 2000 11:57 AM
> > Subject: Re: front spring compression
> >
> > Hi Alan,
> >
> > I don't recall seeing anyone answer your question. I've never
> compressed
> > a Healey front spring but I think this is the general procedure. If
> I'm
> > wrong, someone will surely correct me or add additional information.
> >
> > Use all-thread rods of sufficient length to accommodate the
> uncompressed
> > spring and use them instead of the 4 spring plate bolts. Tighten the
> > nuts on the all-thread rod in sequence to compress the
> spring. Remove
> > one of the threaded rods and replace with a spring plate
> bolt. Repeat
> > for the 3 remaining rods. Of course the "righter" way is to
> use a coil
> > spring compressor!
> >
> > Regards,
> > John
> >
> > Alan Hantke wrote:
> > >
> >
> > > Now for a more basic question... how do you compress a
> front spring
> > > when the car is off of the ground. I'm told that you can get a
> couple
> > > of all-thread rods, but where do you place them, etc.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > --Alan
>
>
>
>
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 11:11:22 -0400
Subject: Healey comments...
I thought the list would get a kick out of this recent email exchange
between the PO and I.
I said to him:
>What is really fun is driving down the Beltway and having folks scream
>compliments! My son got a real kick out of that last weekend.
>The first time it happened was when I was taking her to Healey Surgeons for
>a check up. (There is a shop nearby where the guy will only work on Austin
>Healeys!) Guy in a real trashy old car pulled next to me at a light and
>shouted, "Isn't that an Austin Healey?" I gave him a thumbs up. He
yelled
>again, "Is it a 62 or 63?" I said 62. As he pulled away, I realized that
>the entire inside of his car was jammed with bottles and cans. I guess
>thats how he makes his living. He sure knows his sports cars tho.
>Lee
The PO (who paid for the ground-up restoration) replied:
>The dumpster diver used to be a successful, retired, corporate executive,
>then he restored an Austin Healey.
Lee Mairs
Northern Virginia
'62 Mk II Tri-carb
From "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc at earthlink.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 08:29:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Diff. gearing vs. O/D
Adding a minor point:
The BN1 overdrive will not mate up to the BN2 transmission. Additionally
the overdrive gears will not install into those later model overdrives. As
attractive as the 32% overdrive is, it is relegated to being one of the many
special qualities of the BN1's.
Jim LeBlanc (using Cory's userid)
1956 100-M
From "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc at earthlink.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 09:03:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Diff. gearing vs. O/D
After considerable testing, I now better understand the chart on page B/5,
found under Instruments and Controls, BN2 Supplement, of the 100 Service
manual. From that chart:
Road speed 50 mph
3700 rpm - 3rd gear
2870 rpm - 3rd gear + OD
2775 rpm - 4th gear
2155 rpm - 4th gear + OD
Road speed 60 mph
4440 rpm - 3rd gear
3440 rpm - 3rd gear + OD
3330 rpm - 4th gear
2585 rpm - 4th gear + OD
The number of RPM's that drop from 4th gear to OD change as with change of
speed. At 80 mph the difference is (4440 - 3450) = 990. While at 50 mph the
difference is (2775 - 2155) = 620.
While I was testing this yesterday, the bouncing needles were annoying.
In that you have a BN2 transmission, or at least the brass tag says BN2,
then it is highly likely that you have a 28% overdrive. Even if your
overdrive has a "28/" tag, who knows what gears are in there?
I am finding in the Feb 1965 Road and track, the following for the 300, MK
III:
Firstly it claims that 4th is 1.0 and that OD is 0.82, indicating to me that
Road and Track thinks the 3000 has 28% overdrive. I think this is likely to
be an error.
So if they tested the standard MK III, then these numbers represent a 3.90
differential with a 22% overdrive.
50 mph
3400 rpm - 3rd gear
2600 rpm - 4th gear
2100 rpm - 4th + OD
60 MPH
4050 rpm - 3rd gear
3100 rpm - 4th gear
2500 rpm - 4th gear + OD
Maybe somebody can offer a RPM to MPH conversion chart for a 22% overdrive
with 4.11 gear ratios?
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M with 3.90 differential being installed (gasket glue is drying)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jhayspu@aol.com>
To: <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 9:28 AM
Subject: Re: Diff. gearing vs. O/D
> If I follow what you are saying, then If I have a 1961 3000 Mk. II , I
should
> have a 4.11 rearend and a 22% overdrive. However, I have a 1956
> transmission, so I would have a 28% overdrive? Yes? The brass plate is
> missing so I cannot check that way. When I get it on the road, a 1000 rpm
> drop in 4th gear would indicate that I have a 28% overdrive, Yes?
> TIA
>
> Jerry
> HBT7L14299 with 1956 sideshifter tranny
>
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 12:31:07 -0400
Subject: Negative Ground
The fuel pump from Moss is positive ground. Can it be converted to
negative ground?
Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 12:40:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Diff. gearing vs. O/D
<<Firstly it claims that 4th is 1.0 and that OD is 0.82, indicating to me that
Road and Track thinks the 3000 has 28% overdrive. I think this is likely to
be an error.>>
Hi Cory,
I suspect that R & T were correct in that the reciprocal of 0.82 is 1.2195.
(22% overdrive)
--
Regards,
Mike "I don't do math" Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 14:01:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Diff. gearing vs. O/D
In a message dated 7/16/00 9:44:19 AM, magicare@home.com wrote:
<<> Maybe somebody can offer a RPM to MPH conversion chart for a 22% overdrive
> with 4.11 gear ratios?>>
I have just uploaded a chart (PDF) to:
http://members.aol.com/wilko/Healeygears.pdf
This chart shows RPM/speed for many gear and overdrive options for the two
tire sizes that I use.
The Texas Healey club has a calculator that runs a Java script online that
you can input your own combinations (though I couldn't get it to work).
Oh, and a 22% overdrive should show as .78 of 1.00 (100 - 22% = 78)
Rick
San Diego
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 14:31:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Negative Ground
Yes you can convert a pos ground fuel pump over to neg ground. You will need
to remove the top cover of the pump and replace the diode inside with a
negative ground diode. There are several different diodes on the market I
would recomend using an original SU style diode. These are available
seperatly from several suppliers.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 15:27:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Diff. gearing vs. O/D (URL correction)
The correct URL is:
http://members.aol.com/wilko/healeygears.pdf (lowercase "h" for the
Healeygears.pdf)
This chart shows RPM/speed for many gear and overdrive options for the two
tire sizes that I use.
Sorry 'bout that,
Rick
From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 18:24:19 -0400
Subject: Re:Healey Parts
Hi,
I have available to the list before they go on eBay:
1) Complete set of rebuilt instruments for the BN6, some of which can be
used on the '59 - '61 BN7
2) Absolutely beautiful head lamp rim, which I believe is for the later
BN7/BT7 thru BJ8
3) A pair of NOS, in the box, Lucas SFT 576 fog lamps with the fluted
lens
4) Absolutely complete tri-carb setup, complete with manifolds, linkage
and heat shield
5) Complete, new BN1 wiring harness from SC (AH43c).
Please contact me off the list if interested. Thanks.
Happy Healying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 15:53:13 -0700
Subject: Fw: Tie a ribbon 'round the old....
Subject: Tie a ribbon 'round the old....
A woman has a dog that snores in his sleep. Annoyed, because
she can't sleep goes to the vet to see if he can help. The vet
tells the woman to tie a ribbon around the dog's testicles and
he will stop snoring.
A few hours after going to bed the dog is snoring as usual.
Finally, unable to sleep, she goes to the closet and grabs a
piece of ribbon and ties it around the dog's testicles....sure
enough, the dog stops snoring. The woman is amazed!
Later that night, her husband returns home drunk from being
out with his buddies. He climbs into bed, falls asleep and
begins snoring very loudly.
The woman thinks maybe the ribbon will work on him. So she goes
to the closet again, grabs a piece of ribbon, and ties it around
her husband's testicles. Amazingly, it also works on him! The
woman sleeps very soundly.
The next morning, the husband wakes up very hung over. He
stumbles into the bathroom to urinate. As he is standing in front
of the toilet, he looks in the mirror and sees a blue ribbon
attached to his testicles. He is very confused and as he walks
back into the bedroom, he notices a red ribbon attached to his
dog's testicles.
He shakes his head and looks at the dog and says:
"Boy, I don't remember where we were or what we did lastnight,
but looks like we got first and second place!"
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 16:25:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Negative Ground
Joe,
Assuming this is the type which has a diode, all you have to do is
swap the leads on the diode.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB
----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph Smathers <healey27@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2000 12:31 PM
Subject: Negative Ground
>
> The fuel pump from Moss is positive ground. Can it be converted to
> negative ground?
>
> Any help will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks, Joe
>
> 1955 100
> 1960 3000
>
>
From "RR Moss" <rr_moss at hotmail.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 23:34:50 GMT
Subject: Re: Mostly for BJ8 owners
Agreed.
What happened to 31880??
Ralph
West German Export Registry
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 18:47:44 -0600
From: "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny@y2consult.com>
Subject: Re: Mostly for BJ8 owners
Steve your efforts are certainly appreciated. Maybe some day history will
turn up something on 31880. Thanks again Ron
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 4:02 PM
Subject: Mostly for BJ8 owners
>
>Hello, Healeyphiles!
>
>The global BJ8 registry achieved a milestone a few days ago, when the
>3,542nd BJ8 was added. The significance of this is that it represents a
>full 20% of total original production. Since then, 18 more have joined
the
>list to bring today's total to 3,560.
>
>What use is the registry to a typical BJ8 owner? Maybe nothing. But, the
>current owner of HBJ8L/28578 should shortly be receiving some interesting
>history about that car, the original documentation that came with it from
>BMC and the dealer, and some photos of it from 1965. The original owner
of
>the car (who sold it in '71 but still had all that stuff) contacted me,
and
>I was able to get him together with the current owner because the car was
>listed in the registry. A few months ago, something similar occurred
when
>the current owner of HBJ8L/37704 was able to get some pictures of his car
>from the early '70s.
>
>One never knows when opportunities like that will occur. But, the more
cars
>that are accounted for, the more frequently they can happen.
>
>Happy Healeying!
>
>Steve Byers
>HBJ8L/36666
>BJ8 Registry
>Havelock, NC USA
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 19:47:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Add to your spares list
Good suggestion, duly noted. When my tube arrives next week, I'll do that.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
In a message dated 7/15/00 9:01:15 PM, rader@interworld.net writes:
<< Take the tube out of the box when you get it, then put it in a large
plastic
zip lock bag. Before you seal the bag add talcum powder.
Then you will have the tube ready to go and you don't need to carry the talc
with
you.
Don't worry about too much talc.
All of the excess will fall off before the tire is installed.
Ron Rader >>
From "mel" <mel5 at mindspring.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 21:44:57 -0400
Subject: Car Numbers
A while back someone on the list said that on the BJ8 there was a number
stamped somewhere on the body or frame. Can someone tell me where this
number is and what it represents.
Mel
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 22:29:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Car Numbers
The Car Number (VIN) was stamped on the right front shock mount of each car.
The number may not be visible without removing the paint (the number on my
car was not visible). Anyone who wants to see a picture of one of these
numbers can e-mail me directly, since I can't post an attachment to the
list. Part of the number in the photo is blanked out to protect the
innocent.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: mel <mel5@mindspring.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, July 16, 2000 10:03 PM
Subject: Car Numbers
>
>
>A while back someone on the list said that on the BJ8 there was a number
>stamped somewhere on the body or frame. Can someone tell me where this
>number is and what it represents.
>
>Mel
>
>
>
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 22:12:01 -0500
Subject: Cruisin CDs
Hi Fellows
As mentioned by Neil Trelenberg last week, A & W Canada has come out with
four CDs, each I believe with 10 selections, for $4.99 Canadian a disc,
these feature cruising music from the 50's through early 70's. The jackets
(insert covers) include VW, Austin Healey, Metropolitan, and a "pink" big
finned Caddy. On "Cruisin 2" the one with the Healey (BJ7 or 8) some of the
selections are: Proud Mary Ike and Tina Turner, The Night they drove old
Dixie Down by the Band, Dion doing The Wanderer. Postage to USA would be
approximately $3.25 Canadian, if the postal guide is correct. If you are
interested contact me off the list.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
From "Bob Judd" <bob.judd at quokka.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 21:37:06 -0700
Subject: RE: Diff. gearing vs. O/D
Uh, new kid on the block here. So new I missed the beginning of the great
differential discussion. And why it began. I ask why because mine isn't
really a Healy, it's a hybrid, kinda like half Dan Gurney and Half Stirling
Moss, (or more accurately sister Pat Moss). The car's a BN2 with a 56
Corvette engine built for show in 1997 and rarely driven since. As a former
Allard J-2 owner, I'm happy with the hybred. But wonder, after all these
years, why so many Healy owners are worried about the dif.
-----Original Message-----
From: WilKo@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: 7/16/00 11:01 AM
Subject: Re: Diff. gearing vs. O/D
In a message dated 7/16/00 9:44:19 AM, magicare@home.com wrote:
<<> Maybe somebody can offer a RPM to MPH conversion chart for a 22%
overdrive
> with 4.11 gear ratios?>>
I have just uploaded a chart (PDF) to:
http://members.aol.com/wilko/Healeygears.pdf
This chart shows RPM/speed for many gear and overdrive options for the
two
tire sizes that I use.
The Texas Healey club has a calculator that runs a Java script online
that
you can input your own combinations (though I couldn't get it to work).
Oh, and a 22% overdrive should show as .78 of 1.00 (100 - 22% = 78)
Rick
San Diego
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 23:02:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: where do I attach the O.D. linkage and the grounding strap?
Hi,
I am nearing completion of my BJ7 restoration. I started it so long
ago that I do not remember where I have to attach the lower end of
the overdrive linkage (on the bulkhead). Can anyone help me?
Neither do I remember where to put the engine grounding strap.
Now another one: how do the chrome finishers attach to the doors on
the convertibles (BJ7 + BJ8). Don't the clips interfere with the
window sealing strip?
Thanks for your help
Francois
__________________________________________________
Get Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 07:23:49 -0400
Subject: Re: where do I attach the O.D. linkage and the grounding strap?
Hi Francois,
The lower end of the overdrive switch rod attaches to a small tab on the
arm of the relay shaft. As I recall the tab is held onto the arm by the
same threads that hold the ball joint.
The engine ground strap runs from a bolt in a special thread in the
side of the frame right nest to the engine back plate, to the nearest
bell housing to back plate bolt.
The chrome door strips and window sealing strips are held on by the same
triple bent clip.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
francois wildi wrote:
> Hi,
> I am nearing completion of my BJ7 restoration. I started it so long
> ago that I do not remember where I have to attach the lower end of
> the overdrive linkage (on the bulkhead). Can anyone help me?
>
> Neither do I remember where to put the engine grounding strap.
>
> Now another one: how do the chrome finishers attach to the doors on
> the convertibles (BJ7 + BJ8). Don't the clips interfere with the
> window sealing strip?
>
> Thanks for your help
>
> Francois
>
> __________________________________________________
> Get Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
> http://mail.yahoo.com/
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 08:12:03 -0700
Subject: Re: Cruisin CDs
Thanks Ed, I was not able to offer to pick up any for the group because I
will be on holidays shortly (vacationing in the USA) and it appears they are
not available in the states....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: "Austin Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2000 8:12 PM
Subject: Cruisin CDs
>
>
> Hi Fellows
>
> As mentioned by Neil Trelenberg last week, A & W Canada has come out with
> four CDs, each I believe with 10 selections, for $4.99 Canadian a disc,
> these feature cruising music from the 50's through early 70's. The jackets
> (insert covers) include VW, Austin Healey, Metropolitan, and a "pink" big
> finned Caddy. On "Cruisin 2" the one with the Healey (BJ7 or 8) some of
the
> selections are: Proud Mary Ike and Tina Turner, The Night they drove old
> Dixie Down by the Band, Dion doing The Wanderer. Postage to USA would be
> approximately $3.25 Canadian, if the postal guide is correct. If you are
> interested contact me off the list.
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 12:28:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Cruisin CDs
In a message dated 7/17/00 8:41:49 AM, neilberg@telus.net writes:
<< Thanks Ed, I was not able to offer to pick up any for the group because I
will be on holidays shortly (vacationing in the USA) and it appears they are
not available in the states....Neil >>
Maybe one of the Canadians can import some sets into the U.S. to sell/auction
off at Rendezvous?
Cheers
Gary
From "Bob Judd" <bob.judd at quokka.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 10:10:28 -0700
Subject: British Auto Service
Does anybody have any experience with British Auto Service in Palo Alto?
Just bought a BN2 with a Corvette engine that's mostly just sat after it was
built in 1977. So naturally the wheel cylinders leak. They're quoting
around $1,500 to redo the whole hydraulic system including the master
cylinder. They're nearby. Any guidence here, much appreciated. Cheers, Bob
Judd
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 11:16:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Cruisin CDs
Hi Neil
I'm willing to look after any requests south of the 49th as long as there
is a supply in Saskatoon
Kind regards
Ed
Neil Trelenberg wrote:
>
> Thanks Ed, I was not able to offer to pick up any for the group because I
> will be on holidays shortly (vacationing in the USA) and it appears they are
> not available in the states....Neil
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
> To: "Austin Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2000 8:12 PM
> Subject: Cruisin CDs
>
> >
> >
> > Hi Fellows
> >
> > As mentioned by Neil Trelenberg last week, A & W Canada has come out with
> > four CDs, each I believe with 10 selections, for $4.99 Canadian a disc,
> > these feature cruising music from the 50's through early 70's. The jackets
> > (insert covers) include VW, Austin Healey, Metropolitan, and a "pink" big
> > finned Caddy. On "Cruisin 2" the one with the Healey (BJ7 or 8) some of
> the
> > selections are: Proud Mary Ike and Tina Turner, The Night they drove old
> > Dixie Down by the Band, Dion doing The Wanderer. Postage to USA would be
> > approximately $3.25 Canadian, if the postal guide is correct. If you are
> > interested contact me off the list.
> >
> > Kind regards
> > Ed
> > Saskatoon
> >
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 10:05:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Cruisin CDs
I will mention that to some of the individuals going this month....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <neilberg@telus.net>; <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2000 9:28 AM
Subject: Re: Cruisin CDs
>
> In a message dated 7/17/00 8:41:49 AM, neilberg@telus.net writes:
>
> << Thanks Ed, I was not able to offer to pick up any for the group because
I
> will be on holidays shortly (vacationing in the USA) and it appears they
are
> not available in the states....Neil >>
>
> Maybe one of the Canadians can import some sets into the U.S. to
sell/auction
> off at Rendezvous?
>
> Cheers
> Gary
>
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 13:46:18 -0400
Subject: RE: British Auto Service
DYI
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Judd [mailto:bob.judd@quokka.com]
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2000 1:10 PM
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: British Auto Service
Does anybody have any experience with British Auto Service in Palo Alto?
Just bought a BN2 with a Corvette engine that's mostly just sat after it was
built in 1977. So naturally the wheel cylinders leak. They're quoting
around $1,500 to redo the whole hydraulic system including the master
cylinder. They're nearby. Any guidence here, much appreciated. Cheers, Bob
Judd
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 11:07:37 +0000
Subject: Re: British Auto Service
Bob -- I've think I've heard of BAS and I think it was in a positive vein
but my memory is vague. However, it does seem that $1,500 is a bit high for
what they promise, i.e., 'redoing the whole hydraulic system.' I think that
means they'll remove all wheel cylinders and master cylinder, replace all
the seals, then bleed they system -- that's all you can do when you say
you'll 'redo' the entire system. Now, as the job 'unfolds,' they may find
other things to do, for example, hone or resurface wheel and master
cylinders. That would probably be added to your bill. On the other hand, NOS
wheel and master cylinders may be available, if not surely there are
replacements for them. You may be better off replacing instead of
rebuilding. That's a choice you'll have to make after a little investigation
all of which you can do on your computer. (Moss, Norman Nock, et al.)
As you probably know, anything connected with British Car Whatever
invariably costs more. The parts, as you probably know, consists of a
handful of rubber components thjat are available from any number of part
sources. Unless BAS expects to hone out the wheel cylinders, et al. And I'd
bet the leaks are merely bad seals, etc. You could do the job yourself with
a decent floor jack ($150 at Sears, for example, a 'tool' you'll use many,
many times more), a couple of wheel stands ($65 per, ditto usage) and a
weekend. Obviously, this would be an ideal time to replace brake shoes and
resurface the drums if both or either is necessary. The shoes you can get
from any other parts supplier and any good brake shop can resurface the
drums. Thus, with only a minumum of experience you could do it in one long
afternoon.
Of course, y ou'll need the fluid and a 'helper' to bleed the brake lines
(Okay, pump now, keep pumping, okay hold it!) upon completion of the seal
replacement. I think you could put $750-1,000 'in your pocket' by doing it
yourself. At minimum, it is such a simple procedure that any half-way decent
garage could do the job adequately. In other words, a British oriented shop
isn't all that necessary. Proof of work quaility is plainly self-evident:
either the car stops or doesn't, either the leaks cease or they continue.
I know, I know, it's none of my business but I'm such a hands-on dude that I
can't help but pass it along. After all, one didn't have to be a rocket
scientist to work in a Healey shop circa '77. Good luck, Ron.
----------
>From: "Bob Judd" <bob.judd@quokka.com>
>To: "'healeys@autox.team.net'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: British Auto Service
>Date: Mon, Jul 17, 2000, 5:10 PM
>
>
> Does anybody have any experience with British Auto Service in Palo Alto?
> Just bought a BN2 with a Corvette engine that's mostly just sat after it was
> built in 1977. So naturally the wheel cylinders leak. They're quoting
> around $1,500 to redo the whole hydraulic system including the master
> cylinder. They're nearby. Any guidence here, much appreciated. Cheers, Bob
> Judd
>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 15:30:41 -0400
Subject: Re: British Auto Service
A word of caution regarding
<<hone or resurface wheel and master cylinders>>
The wheel cylinders on a BN2, and for that matter all Big Healey drum brake
cylinders, are made of aluminium. As are all 6 cylinder master cylinders.
To produce a satisfactory wear resistant surface the manufacturer will have
anodized the cylinder bore. Anodizing produces a relatively hard, but very thin
coating.
DO NOT HONE ALUMINIUM CYLINDERS.
Even the lightest attack with abrasive will irreparably damage this coating and
cause premature failure of the rebuilt cylinder. If the cylinder surface is
damaged the cylinder must be replaced or resleeved.
Your life, the lives of your passengers and other road users depend on your
brakes. If you are not sure that you know what you are doing leave the job to
someone who does.
"Steps down from soapbox and continues with task at hand" ;-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
rons wrote:
> Bob -- I've think I've heard of BAS and I think it was in a positive vein
> but my memory is vague. However, it does seem that $1,500 is a bit high for
> what they promise, i.e., 'redoing the whole hydraulic system.' I think that
> means they'll remove all wheel cylinders and master cylinder, replace all
> the seals, then bleed they system -- that's all you can do when you say
> you'll 'redo' the entire system. Now, as the job 'unfolds,' they may find
> other things to do, for example, hone or resurface wheel and master
> cylinders. That would probably be added to your bill. On the other hand, NOS
> wheel and master cylinders may be available, if not surely there are
> replacements for them. You may be better off replacing instead of
> rebuilding. That's a choice you'll have to make after a little investigation
> all of which you can do on your computer. (Moss, Norman Nock, et al.)
>
> As you probably know, anything connected with British Car Whatever
> invariably costs more. The parts, as you probably know, consists of a
> handful of rubber components thjat are available from any number of part
> sources. Unless BAS expects to hone out the wheel cylinders, et al. And I'd
> bet the leaks are merely bad seals, etc. You could do the job yourself with
> a decent floor jack ($150 at Sears, for example, a 'tool' you'll use many,
> many times more), a couple of wheel stands ($65 per, ditto usage) and a
> weekend. Obviously, this would be an ideal time to replace brake shoes and
> resurface the drums if both or either is necessary. The shoes you can get
> from any other parts supplier and any good brake shop can resurface the
> drums. Thus, with only a minumum of experience you could do it in one long
> afternoon.
>
> Of course, y ou'll need the fluid and a 'helper' to bleed the brake lines
> (Okay, pump now, keep pumping, okay hold it!) upon completion of the seal
> replacement. I think you could put $750-1,000 'in your pocket' by doing it
> yourself. At minimum, it is such a simple procedure that any half-way decent
> garage could do the job adequately. In other words, a British oriented shop
> isn't all that necessary. Proof of work quaility is plainly self-evident:
> either the car stops or doesn't, either the leaks cease or they continue.
>
> I know, I know, it's none of my business but I'm such a hands-on dude that I
> can't help but pass it along. After all, one didn't have to be a rocket
> scientist to work in a Healey shop circa '77. Good luck, Ron.
> ----------
> >From: "Bob Judd" <bob.judd@quokka.com>
> >To: "'healeys@autox.team.net'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: British Auto Service
> >Date: Mon, Jul 17, 2000, 5:10 PM
> >
>
> >
> > Does anybody have any experience with British Auto Service in Palo Alto?
> > Just bought a BN2 with a Corvette engine that's mostly just sat after it was
> > built in 1977. So naturally the wheel cylinders leak. They're quoting
> > around $1,500 to redo the whole hydraulic system including the master
> > cylinder. They're nearby. Any guidence here, much appreciated. Cheers, Bob
> > Judd
> >
From Alan at roverworks.com (Alan Simpson)
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 12:30:48 -0700
Subject: RE: British Auto Service
Hello Fred. I own a restoration shop and would suggest you get a written
estimate. Ask for the worst case scenario when they are doing the estimate.
Also, ask if the mechanics are licensed and if the shop is insured. You are
to far away for me to be of assistance but if you send me the estimate I
will look at it and let you know what I think. Regards, Alan
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 15:46:33 -0400
Subject: RE: British Auto Service
I second that!
-----Original Message-----
From: rons [mailto:arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2000 7:08 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: British Auto Service
Bob -- I've think I've heard of BAS and I think it was in a positive vein
but my memory is vague. However, it does seem that $1,500 is a bit high for
what they promise, i.e., 'redoing the whole hydraulic system.' I think that
means they'll remove all wheel cylinders and master cylinder, replace all
the seals, then bleed they system -- that's all you can do when you say
you'll 'redo' the entire system. Now, as the job 'unfolds,' they may find
other things to do, for example, hone or resurface wheel and master
cylinders. That would probably be added to your bill. On the other hand, NOS
wheel and master cylinders may be available, if not surely there are
replacements for them. You may be better off replacing instead of
rebuilding. That's a choice you'll have to make after a little investigation
all of which you can do on your computer. (Moss, Norman Nock, et al.)
As you probably know, anything connected with British Car Whatever
invariably costs more. The parts, as you probably know, consists of a
handful of rubber components thjat are available from any number of part
sources. Unless BAS expects to hone out the wheel cylinders, et al. And I'd
bet the leaks are merely bad seals, etc. You could do the job yourself with
a decent floor jack ($150 at Sears, for example, a 'tool' you'll use many,
many times more), a couple of wheel stands ($65 per, ditto usage) and a
weekend. Obviously, this would be an ideal time to replace brake shoes and
resurface the drums if both or either is necessary. The shoes you can get
from any other parts supplier and any good brake shop can resurface the
drums. Thus, with only a minumum of experience you could do it in one long
afternoon.
Of course, y ou'll need the fluid and a 'helper' to bleed the brake lines
(Okay, pump now, keep pumping, okay hold it!) upon completion of the seal
replacement. I think you could put $750-1,000 'in your pocket' by doing it
yourself. At minimum, it is such a simple procedure that any half-way decent
garage could do the job adequately. In other words, a British oriented shop
isn't all that necessary. Proof of work quaility is plainly self-evident:
either the car stops or doesn't, either the leaks cease or they continue.
I know, I know, it's none of my business but I'm such a hands-on dude that I
can't help but pass it along. After all, one didn't have to be a rocket
scientist to work in a Healey shop circa '77. Good luck, Ron.
----------
>From: "Bob Judd" <bob.judd@quokka.com>
>To: "'healeys@autox.team.net'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: British Auto Service
>Date: Mon, Jul 17, 2000, 5:10 PM
>
>
> Does anybody have any experience with British Auto Service in Palo
Alto?
> Just bought a BN2 with a Corvette engine that's mostly just sat after it
was
> built in 1977. So naturally the wheel cylinders leak. They're quoting
> around $1,500 to redo the whole hydraulic system including the master
> cylinder. They're nearby. Any guidence here, much appreciated. Cheers,
Bob
> Judd
>
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 16:35:32 -0400
Subject: Paging Brian Thornton
Is Brian Thornton of Royal Oak, MI still on the list? If so, please contact
me.
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC
From howard young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 17:35:53 -0500
Subject: wish to purchase
HI ALL!
i was sadly just informed that "British Car" Magazine is out of back
issues #36 and #53!
if any1 on the list has a copy of each they would like to sell/dispose
of please contact me of list. THANKS! for this shameless solicitation of
commercialism..........now back to the Texas Cooler/or was it Beer
Cooler debate....................oh, that was another list....
HoYo
From howard young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 17:39:43 -0500
Subject: wanna buy
ps .....DAMN! i shoulda ordered the magazines B4 i went for a pack of
diapers at Walmart!
HoYo
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 17:58:28 -0500
Subject: Nuts & Bolts
A while ago there was a posting about a company that supplied almost any
nut, bolt, screw in any quantity. List quest must be down. I tried to
access it for a search but could not connect. Any one remember the company
name or web site. Thanks.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From RCT2BNC at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 19:21:17 EDT
Subject: Re: British Auto Service
Bob-
This is also an opportune time to replace all the flexible hoses in the
system. Recently did this on one of the Bugeyes.
Ben Cohen
Tucson
BJ8, BN7, AN5, AN5, Mini Cooper
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 17:41:28 -0400
Subject: Re: where do I attach the O.D. linkage and the grounding strap?
If you have the BMC shop manual, look at figure A.30 on
page A.25.
Attached to the end of the accelerator relay shaft (the one
which goes across the top of the bell housing), are two levers.
The upper lever should have a ball joint bolted to it, attached to
the carburetor linkages. The ball joint itself should be on the outboard
side of the lever. Under the which holds the ball joint to the lever on the
relay shaft, there should be a small tab with a hole in it (see figure A.30
in the manual). The rod for the overdrive switch should fit into that hole.
HTH
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB
----- Original Message -----
From: francois wildi <fwildi@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2000 2:02 AM
Subject: where do I attach the O.D. linkage and the grounding strap?
Hi,
I am nearing completion of my BJ7 restoration. I started it so long
ago that I do not remember where I have to attach the lower end of
the overdrive linkage (on the bulkhead). Can anyone help me?
Neither do I remember where to put the engine grounding strap.
Now another one: how do the chrome finishers attach to the doors on
the convertibles (BJ7 + BJ8). Don't the clips interfere with the
window sealing strip?
Thanks for your help
Francois
__________________________________________________
Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
From JustBrits at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 20:51:39 EDT
Subject: Re: wish to purchase
In a message dated 07/17/2000 5:38:01 PM Central Daylight Time,
hoyo@bellsouth.net writes:
<< now back to the Texas Cooler/or was it Beer
Cooler debate....................oh, that was another list....
>>
Now just a Go*mn mt, Howard!! ANYBODY know the "Cooler" is a "Koozie"!!
Ask Bonnie, right Don??
ROTFLMAO, I am,
Just Ed
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at slip.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 18:20:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Diff. gearing vs. O/D (URL correction)
This chart doesn't look at all like the numbers I read on my guages ...
I get about 70 mph at 4,000 RPM in top O/D ... I know my tach reads a little
high, but
I believe the speedo to be pretty accurate. Dunno, 120 mph at 5,000 RPM???!!!
I run 185/70 tires. How does this chart stack up against what you've observed?
Maybe my tach is worse that I thought ... I know it reads a couple of hundred
RPM high
at idle.
bs
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <WilKo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2000 12:27 PM
Subject: Re: Diff. gearing vs. O/D (URL correction)
>
>
>
> The correct URL is:
> http://members.aol.com/wilko/healeygears.pdf (lowercase "h" for the
> Healeygears.pdf)
>
> This chart shows RPM/speed for many gear and overdrive options for the two
> tire sizes that I use.
>
> Sorry 'bout that,
> Rick
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 22:38:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Diff. gearing vs. O/D (URL correction)
In a message dated 7/17/00 6:37:00 PM, bspidell@slip.net writes:
<< I get about 70 mph at 4,000 RPM in top O/D ... I know my tach reads a
little high, but
I believe the speedo to be pretty accurate. Dunno, 120 mph at 5,000 RPM???!!!
I run 185/70 tires. >>
Something is out of whack, Bob. 185/70s have pretty close to the same
diameter as the original tires (I calculate 25.2 inches), so I'd wonder about
the tach. Even with my old (standard) overdrive, I could make 70 at under
3500.
Cheers
Gary
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 17:45:55 -0600
Subject: Re: British Auto Service
If they are the 2 brothers and it sounds like they might be I think they
would do excellent work and have very extensive experience which I believe
they learned at their fathers' knee. Check em out.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com>
To: "'Bob Judd'" <bob.judd@quokka.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2000 11:46 AM
Subject: RE: British Auto Service
>
> DYI
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Judd [mailto:bob.judd@quokka.com]
> Sent: Monday, July 17, 2000 1:10 PM
> To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
> Subject: British Auto Service
>
>
>
> Does anybody have any experience with British Auto Service in Palo
Alto?
> Just bought a BN2 with a Corvette engine that's mostly just sat after it
was
> built in 1977. So naturally the wheel cylinders leak. They're quoting
> around $1,500 to redo the whole hydraulic system including the master
> cylinder. They're nearby. Any guidence here, much appreciated. Cheers,
Bob
> Judd
>
From Robert E Bender <rbender9 at juno.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 22:41:50 -0500
Subject: Re: British Auto Service
I am thinking about dipping the frame of my BJ7. I am particularly
interested in Redi-Strip, and would like to hear any experience with
dipping as opposed to blasting, acid-dip vs. alkali dips, etc.
Bob
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc at earthlink.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 20:46:07 -0700
Subject: Re: Diff. gearing vs. O/D (URL correction)
Thanks for the chart - and - thanks to those of you who are determined to
teach math :-)
I have confirmed that if you want to make a difference, exchanging a 4.11
for a 3.90 differential makes a slightly pleasant difference at speeds above
50 MPH. If you want a noticeable difference go to the 3.55's.
In my case the issue was the noise coming from the 4.11 gears and the
availability of the 3.90's.
----- Original Message -----
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <WilKo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2000 12:27 PM
Subject: Re: Diff. gearing vs. O/D (URL correction)
>
>
>
> The correct URL is:
> http://members.aol.com/wilko/healeygears.pdf (lowercase "h" for the
> Healeygears.pdf)
>
> This chart shows RPM/speed for many gear and overdrive options for the two
> tire sizes that I use.
>
> Sorry 'bout that,
> Rick
>
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 07:04:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Stripping vs Dipping
Hi Bob,
I had my half Healey trailer done by American Dry Stripping in Bridgeport.
They usually have an ad in the British Marque. I found them at a car show in
Hartford doing a demo on a soda can. They removed all the paint and didn't
hurt the aluminum can. They don't use a grit type of blast, so that it
doesn't eat away the metal, just the dirt, paint and rust. Very impressive.
Is this the same as Redi-Strip? I heard that with dipping, you can never get
all the chemicals out of all the nooks and crannies. Hope this helps
somewhat. See y'all at conclave.
Rudy in NC
From "jim t.p. ryan" <ryan at jimryan.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 04:22:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Diff. gearing vs. O/D (URL correction)
That can't be right, my BJ7 runs 3k at 60 mph in fourth direct (O/D doesn't
work).
Sincerely,
Jim Ryan
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net
Sent: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 18:20:01 -0700
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Diff. gearing vs. O/D (URL correction)
This chart doesn't look at all like the numbers I read on my guages ...
I get about 70 mph at 4,000 RPM in top O/D ... I know my tach reads a little
high, but
I believe the speedo to be pretty accurate. Dunno, 120 mph at 5,000 RPM???!!!
I run 185/70 tires. How does this chart stack up against what you've observed?
Maybe my tach is worse that I thought ... I know it reads a couple of hundred
RPM high
at idle.
bs
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <WilKo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2000 12:27 PM
Subject: Re: Diff. gearing vs. O/D (URL correction)
>
>
>
> The correct URL is:
> http://members.aol.com/wilko/healeygears.pdf (lowercase "h" for the
> Healeygears.pdf)
>
> This chart shows RPM/speed for many gear and overdrive options for the two
> tire sizes that I use.
>
> Sorry 'bout that,
> Rick
>
___________________________________________________________________________
Visit http://www.visto.com/info, your free web-based communications center.
Visto.com. Life on the Dot.
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 05:51:27 -0600
Subject: Trans and Diff Seals
Hi Folks,
The motor rebuild on my BJ8 is great.... however, the rear seal on the
trans is leaking badly as is the front seal on the differential. Just a
quick question regarding the ease of installation of the new seals mentioned
while these components are still in the car..........?
Thanks.....
Yours leaking..
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 08:58:23 -0400
Subject: RE:
I would shy away from this meathos, very difficult to get the redi strip out
from inside the frame rails
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert E Bender [mailto:rbender9@juno.com]
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2000 11:42 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject:
I am thinking about dipping the frame of my BJ7. I am particularly
interested in Redi-Strip, and would like to hear any experience with
dipping as opposed to blasting, acid-dip vs. alkali dips, etc.
Bob
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 09:00:09 -0400
Subject: RE: Diff. gearing vs. O/D (URL correction)
analog gauges guys, always going to be some discrepancies
-----Original Message-----
From: jim t.p. ryan [mailto:ryan@jimryan.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 7:22 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; bspidell@slip.net
Subject: Re: Diff. gearing vs. O/D (URL correction)
That can't be right, my BJ7 runs 3k at 60 mph in fourth direct (O/D doesn't
work).
Sincerely,
Jim Ryan
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net
Sent: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 18:20:01 -0700
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Diff. gearing vs. O/D (URL correction)
This chart doesn't look at all like the numbers I read on my guages ...
I get about 70 mph at 4,000 RPM in top O/D ... I know my tach reads a little
high, but
I believe the speedo to be pretty accurate. Dunno, 120 mph at 5,000
RPM???!!!
I run 185/70 tires. How does this chart stack up against what you've
observed?
Maybe my tach is worse that I thought ... I know it reads a couple of
hundred RPM high
at idle.
bs
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <WilKo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2000 12:27 PM
Subject: Re: Diff. gearing vs. O/D (URL correction)
>
>
>
> The correct URL is:
> http://members.aol.com/wilko/healeygears.pdf (lowercase "h" for the
> Healeygears.pdf)
>
> This chart shows RPM/speed for many gear and overdrive options for the two
> tire sizes that I use.
>
> Sorry 'bout that,
> Rick
>
___________________________________________________________________________
Visit http://www.visto.com/info, your free web-based communications center.
Visto.com. Life on the Dot.
From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 09:08:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Redi Strip
Hi Robert,
I have had two cars done by the Redi Strip chemical process....a 1965
Sunbeam Tiger and a 1936 Packard 120. In neither case did I have any
residue running out of cracks or hidden spaces after the painting had
been done. However, in both cases I did spend an extra hour barefully
cleaning nooks and crannies by hand prior to the use of "metal
conditioner" to ensure that all of the protective oil (which they apply
after the dipping to prevent rusting) is removed. I was very pleased
with the results on both occasions. This process, when done properly,
does have the advantage of ensuring that everything is cleaned...no
hidden surprises because a certain location could not be reached. This
does mean that a little extra care, and sometimes ingenuity, is required
to put a coat of primer back onto all the newly bared metal.
Redi Strip does remove virtually all substances from the surface of the
metal. However, if Bondo or similar is present in sufficient thickness,
it may not be removed by the process. I was advised of this both times
by the company before the job started, and was given a choice of leaving
it on if it stayed (my choice), or having one of their "boys"
mechanically remove it after the cleaning (NOOO thanks !).
Remember that there are different processes for cleaning steel and for
cleaning aluminum. If an aluminum piece accidentally gets into the steel
process, you won't get it back.
If you have a car with wooden structure which you don't want to remove,
then the Redi Strip process is out, and media blasting is more
appropriate.
John Slade
Manotick, ON
From "Ledwith, Ryan S" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 09:25:23 -0400
Subject: RE: Stripping vs Dipping vs blasting
Bob:
I also had mine done by American Dry Stripping. It came out very clean, and
only took 2 days. the only caveat I have with dry stripping is that you
really need to get all the grit out of the frame before painting. Even
though I blew off as much as I could with an air hose (with goggles), each
time I tipped the frame on its side to paint the bottom, more sand came out
of the cracks and ended up in the paint. bothersome.
Ryan
64 BJ7
Darien CT
-----Original Message-----
From: CAWS52803@aol.com [mailto:CAWS52803@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 7:05 AM
To: rbender9@juno.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Stripping vs Dipping
Hi Bob,
I had my half Healey trailer done by American Dry Stripping in Bridgeport.
They usually have an ad in the British Marque. I found them at a car show
in
Hartford doing a demo on a soda can. They removed all the paint and didn't
hurt the aluminum can. They don't use a grit type of blast, so that it
doesn't eat away the metal, just the dirt, paint and rust. Very impressive.
Is this the same as Redi-Strip? I heard that with dipping, you can never
get
all the chemicals out of all the nooks and crannies. Hope this helps
somewhat. See y'all at conclave.
Rudy in NC
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 07:39:43 -0600
Subject: Re: Re:Healey Parts
Doug,
Thanks for giving the "list" first shot..
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2000 4:24 PM
Subject: Re:Healey Parts
>
> Hi,
>
> I have available to the list before they go on eBay:
>
> 1) Complete set of rebuilt instruments for the BN6, some of which can be
> used on the '59 - '61 BN7
>
> 2) Absolutely beautiful head lamp rim, which I believe is for the later
> BN7/BT7 thru BJ8
>
> 3) A pair of NOS, in the box, Lucas SFT 576 fog lamps with the fluted
> lens
>
> 4) Absolutely complete tri-carb setup, complete with manifolds, linkage
> and heat shield
>
> 5) Complete, new BN1 wiring harness from SC (AH43c).
>
> Please contact me off the list if interested. Thanks.
>
> Happy Healying,
>
> Doug
> ________________________________________________________________
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
>
From Allen Williams <awill at bama.ua.edu>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 08:50:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Diff. gearing vs. O/D (URL correction)
My 2 cents on this subject:
I have a dealer sales brochure that says that you should get about 23mph/1000
rpm
in O/D on the original Road Speed tires. I have 185/65's on my BJ7 and the tach
reads about 3400 rpm. The speedo is off 10mph as measured by my S10 Blazer. As
you
said, 185/70's are closer to the old size. That would improve the "accuracy" of
the speedo by a few percent.
Allen W.
63 BJ7
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 7/17/00 6:37:00 PM, bspidell@slip.net writes:
>
> << I get about 70 mph at 4,000 RPM in top O/D ... I know my tach reads a
> little high, but
> I believe the speedo to be pretty accurate. Dunno, 120 mph at 5,000 RPM???!!!
>
> I run 185/70 tires. >>
>
> Something is out of whack, Bob. 185/70s have pretty close to the same
> diameter as the original tires (I calculate 25.2 inches), so I'd wonder about
> the tach. Even with my old (standard) overdrive, I could make 70 at under
> 3500.
> Cheers
> Gary
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 09:51:14 -0400
Subject: Status - 3.50 Gear Sets
My last status was sent out on July 12. Since then, I've received
commitments for another 12 units. That brings our number up to 47 - Pretty
good progress ! We're almost half way there.
Should anyone decide to bail out, the time to do it is sooner rather than
later. I'm hoping not to have a lot of dropouts at crunch time.
Our current list of participants (please let me know if I left anyone out):
2 Mike Lempert
1 Jim Smith
1 Robert Barback
1 Dr. Carl Rubino
2 John Vrugtman
1 Jack Jakobsen
1 Ray Juncal
2 Bob McElwee
1 John Heffron
1 Roland Wilhelmy
2 Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
1 Mark Fawcett
1 Fred Scheuble
1 Colin O'Brien
2 Skip Saunders
1 John Loftus
1 Reid Trummel
1 Marshall Dixon
1 Alfred Haymond
1 Jim Cox
1 Bill Wycoff
1 Bob Spidell
10 Bob Yule
1 Pete Pollock
1 Dave Bowers
1 Steve Byers
2 Ed-JustBrits
1 Bob Dobrowski
1 Richard J. Hockert
1 Greg Poorten
1 Bruce Starke
1 Al Toepfer
To summarize once again, the new sets, ring and pinion gears, will be a
12/42 pin configuration - providing a 3.5 ratio. The original sets were
11/39, providing a 3.54
ratio. The price is $220. US plus shipping.
The new gears will need to be installed in your existing housings. Much
care needs to be given to ensure proper alignment of the teeth. Improper
alignment would result in increased noise and wear. I hope to be able to
include instructions with the gears.
Speedometers will need to be recalibrated due to the new rear end ratio. -
Not that many are accurate anyway - Who knows, maybe some will be
corrected by the change.
These units will fit all Big Healeys with the exception of the early BN1s
with the spiral bevel gears.
Once I have the necessary 100 set commitment, I'll need to go into
contract. At that point I'll need to put up 50%, so I'll require that of
all participants as well. Final payment will be required prior to shipment.
Once I have entered into contract, the manufacturer will produce a
prototype from the measurements already taken. Then they will install it in
a housing for fit and performance testing. I will need to provide them with
the complete rear units for the testing. I may need some assistance from
you folks if it's necessary to test in more than one rear end configuration,
i.e. 100 & 3000.
I'll keep you informed of progress.
Regards,
Mike Lempert
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 08:25:19 -0700
Subject: stripping
I used an alkaline stripper on the frame and was pleased. I drilled a couple
of extra holes for drainage. I didn't paint for many months so I guess what
ever didn't drip out, dried up. The phosphate coating that is applied is
something that isn't done with dry stripping, so I would think that is a
plus. Waxoyl was then applied to the inside of the frame.
Ken Freese
65 3000
--
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 11:41:31 -0400
Subject: Re; Trans and Diff seals
Jim, I'm keen to learn and do whatever I can myself, but I occaisionally
get into trouble, so I'll give you the benefit of my experience changing
these seals.
The one at the back of the transmission is very awkward, because if it's on
really tight (and it will be!),
you have to use a puller from under the car, with the drive shaft out of
the way. That said, there were
no pitfalls once the flange came off.
However, after removing the pinion seal on the front of the diff, you will
get into the (new for me)
territory of setting the pre-load, when putting the flange back on. I'm
sure someone like Mike Salter
can give a clear explanation of this, but it can be trouble for the home
mechanic.
Stephen, BJ 8
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 12:08:14 EDT
Subject: Valve adjustment
I'm in the process of re adjusting the valves on my 100/6, BN4 after an
engine rebuild. I have the clearances from the Technical Data in the
workshop manuals. My question is: Is there a sequence of adjusting? Does it
matter much? Thanks.
Rudy in NC
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 13:29:11 -0700
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
Rudy: Absolutely, check your repair manual you have to adjust one valve when
another is fully open. Unfortunately I don't remember the proper sequence.
EDS
CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
> I'm in the process of re adjusting the valves on my 100/6, BN4 after an
> engine rebuild. I have the clearances from the Technical Data in the
> workshop manuals. My question is: Is there a sequence of adjusting? Does it
> matter much? Thanks.
> Rudy in NC
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 14:03:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
Rudy
The answer is NO, but a better question is Hot or Cold and what tolerance and
what is Hot enough, etc.
DickB ;>)
---- you wrote:
>
> I'm in the process of re adjusting the valves on my 100/6, BN4 after an
> engine rebuild. I have the clearances from the Technical Data in the
> workshop manuals. My question is: Is there a sequence of adjusting? Does it
> matter much? Thanks.
> Rudy in NC
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 14:59:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
Ed Santoro wrote:
> Rudy: Absolutely, check your repair manual you have to adjust one valve when
> another is fully open. Unfortunately I don't remember the proper sequence.
> EDS
>
> CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
>
> > I'm in the process of re adjusting the valves on my 100/6, BN4 after an
> > engine rebuild. I have the clearances from the Technical Data in the
> > workshop manuals. My question is: Is there a sequence of adjusting? Does
>it
> > matter much? Thanks.
> > Rudy in NC
Apply the rule of 13 .........
#1 open Adjust #12
#2 open Adjust #11
#3 open Adjust #10 etc....etc....etc...
For 4 cylinders (normally) The rule of 9
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Colin O'Brien" <cob at atg.com.au>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 04:28:41 +1000
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
Hi Dick,
That's a question I have often pondered. If it's supposed to be done "hot"
then surely the engine is cooling down as you progress through the job? Am I
supposed to re-run the engine to warm it up again? This all sounds too
silly to be practical (who said anything with Healeys had to be practical!)
so what is the general rule and is there a better way with a cold engine?
Regards,
Colin O'Brien
Sydney Oz
--
> From: dickb@cheerful.com
> Reply-To: dickb@cheerful.com
> Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 14:03:25 -0400 (EDT)
> To: CAWS52803@aol.com, austin healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
>
>
> Rudy
>
> The answer is NO, but a better question is Hot or Cold and what tolerance and
> what is Hot enough, etc.
>
> DickB ;>)
>
>
> ---- you wrote:
>>
>> I'm in the process of re adjusting the valves on my 100/6, BN4 after an
>> engine rebuild. I have the clearances from the Technical Data in the
>> workshop manuals. My question is: Is there a sequence of adjusting? Does it
>> matter much? Thanks.
>> Rudy in NC
>>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
>
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 12:42:21 +0000
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
Tolerance can be found in the manuals. Hot or cold -- take your choice,
whatever works best for you. Hot has to be 'normal' operating temperature.
----------
>From: dickb@cheerful.com
>To: CAWS52803@aol.com, austin healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
>Date: Tue, Jul 18, 2000, 6:03 PM
>
>
> Rudy
>
> The answer is NO, but a better question is Hot or Cold and what tolerance
> and what is Hot enough, etc.
>
> DickB ;>)
>
>
> ---- you wrote:
>>
>> I'm in the process of re adjusting the valves on my 100/6, BN4 after an
>> engine rebuild. I have the clearances from the Technical Data in the
>> workshop manuals. My question is: Is there a sequence of adjusting? Does it
>> matter much? Thanks.
>> Rudy in NC
>>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 15:15:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
Yes there is a sequence!
You must be sure that the valve you are adjusting is completely closed with
the rocker arm riding on the round part of the camshaft. My friend the
Diesel Doctor (Chris Oliver of Chesapeake Marine Engines) does it this way.
Cover up all but one set of valves so you won't be confused. Identify which
is the exhaust and which valve is the intake on the cylinder you are looking
at. Turn the engine in the direction of its normal rotation with a socket
on the main crank shaft nut. Watch the two valves and adjust the intake
valve when the exhaust valve just starts to open. A neat way to precisely
identify this spot is to roll the exhaust valve push-rod with your fingers
as you turn the engine. Stop when the exhaust valve push-rod won't move.
(The push-rod is riding on the cam lobe and just starting to push up on the
rocker arm that forces the valve down and open).
Adjust the exhaust valve when the intake valve has just closed. Determine
this point by trying to roll the intake push rod with your fingers and
stopping when the intake push rod just starts to roll. (The intake valve
push rod is completely off the rocker arm and the spring has completely
closed the intake valve).
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
-----Original Message-----
From: dickb@cheerful.com <dickb@cheerful.com>
To: CAWS52803@aol.com <CAWS52803@aol.com>; austin healey list
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 2:03 PM
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
>
>Rudy
>
>The answer is NO, but a better question is Hot or Cold and what tolerance
and what is Hot enough, etc.
>
>DickB ;>)
>
>
> ---- you wrote:
>>
>> I'm in the process of re adjusting the valves on my 100/6, BN4 after an
>> engine rebuild. I have the clearances from the Technical Data in the
>> workshop manuals. My question is: Is there a sequence of adjusting?
Does it
>> matter much? Thanks.
>> Rudy in NC
>>
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 15:26:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
In a message dated 7/18/00 3:20:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net writes:
<< Hot has to be 'normal' operating temperature. >>
You mean as in "Boiling over"?
Michael
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 16:31:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Stripping vs Dipping
Yes - how do you flush the inside of the channels and prepare the inside for a
rust preventer?
CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
> Hi Bob,
> I had my half Healey trailer done by American Dry Stripping in Bridgeport.
> They usually have an ad in the British Marque. I found them at a car show in
> Hartford doing a demo on a soda can. They removed all the paint and didn't
> hurt the aluminum can. They don't use a grit type of blast, so that it
> doesn't eat away the metal, just the dirt, paint and rust. Very impressive.
> Is this the same as Redi-Strip? I heard that with dipping, you can never get
> all the chemicals out of all the nooks and crannies. Hope this helps
> somewhat. See y'all at conclave.
> Rudy in NC
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 13:35:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment / Rule of 13
Numerous years ago, a BMC master mechanic introduced me to the Rule of 13.
Warm is Warm and Hot is Hot depending who's fingars you are using.
Warm is the easiest to work with and I have never had a clearence problem.
If the engine is cold by the time adjustment is completed , I hope you're
not
workng by the hour
A box end wrench, common blade screwdriver, and wide flat blade feeler guage
will see you through
Starting with the #1 valve completely depressed, (open), (count 13 valves),
this valve will be completely closed, adjust the rocker to the clearence you
want.
Continue through all valves (counting 13) then do it again (and again if
needed) to
accomplish the task.
Kirk Kvam
62BT7#3
26"T"RoadsterP/U
----- Original Message -----
From: "Colin O'Brien" <cob@atg.com.au>
To: <dickb@cheerful.com>; <CAWS52803@aol.com>; "austin healey list"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 11:28 AM
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
>
> Hi Dick,
>
> That's a question I have often pondered. If it's supposed to be done "hot"
> then surely the engine is cooling down as you progress through the job? Am
I
> supposed to re-run the engine to warm it up again? This all sounds too
> silly to be practical (who said anything with Healeys had to be
practical!)
> so what is the general rule and is there a better way with a cold engine?
>
> Regards,
>
> Colin O'Brien
> Sydney Oz
>
> --
>
>
> > From: dickb@cheerful.com
> > Reply-To: dickb@cheerful.com
> > Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 14:03:25 -0400 (EDT)
> > To: CAWS52803@aol.com, austin healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
> >
> >
> > Rudy
> >
> > The answer is NO, but a better question is Hot or Cold and what
tolerance and
> > what is Hot enough, etc.
> >
> > DickB ;>)
> >
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> >>
> >> I'm in the process of re adjusting the valves on my 100/6, BN4 after an
> >> engine rebuild. I have the clearances from the Technical Data in the
> >> workshop manuals. My question is: Is there a sequence of adjusting?
Does it
> >> matter much? Thanks.
> >> Rudy in NC
> >>
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> >
>
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 17:38:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
Colin
All of the Healey heads are of the same general design, yet some of the valve
covers said "Hot" and some said "Cold",
For a while I figured that in the interest of my fingertip's health, I would
"adjust" for Hot (thinking that the pushrod elongated andthe valve stems
elongated, etc) and adjust the valves Cold. But then some wise engineer told
me that the elements of the valve train elongated with heat to self-cancelling
changes at the rocker/valvestem intersect - so I thereafter adjusted them Cold
at +.001 so as to be Sure that the valves were actually closing completely.
On the theory "Noisy is Safer - there are no degrees of Silent"
;>)
DickB
BT7-TriCarb
---- you wrote:
>
> Hi Dick,
>
> That's a question I have often pondered. If it's supposed to be done "hot"
> then surely the engine is cooling down as you progress through the job? Am I
> supposed to re-run the engine to warm it up again? This all sounds too
> silly to be practical (who said anything with Healeys had to be practical!)
> so what is the general rule and is there a better way with a cold engine?
>
> Regards,
>
> Colin O'Brien
> Sydney Oz
>
> --
>
>
> > From: dickb@cheerful.com
> > Reply-To: dickb@cheerful.com
> > Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 14:03:25 -0400 (EDT)
> > To: CAWS52803@aol.com, austin healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
> >
> >
> > Rudy
> >
> > The answer is NO, but a better question is Hot or Cold and what tolerance
>and
> > what is Hot enough, etc.
> >
> > DickB ;>)
> >
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> >>
> >> I'm in the process of re adjusting the valves on my 100/6, BN4 after an
> >> engine rebuild. I have the clearances from the Technical Data in the
> >> workshop manuals. My question is: Is there a sequence of adjusting? Does
>it
> >> matter much? Thanks.
> >> Rudy in NC
> >>
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> >
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 17:39:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment / Rule of 13
I like to use a go/no-go type feeler guage. They are readily available at
most auto parts stores.
The go/no-go blade has two thicknesses on each blade. If the thin part (at
the head of the blade) enters but the thick part is blocked, you can be
reasonalby assured that the correct reading is half-way between the two.
For example, if a blade marked .10-.12 goes in at the .10 end but is stopped
at the beginning of the .12 section, the thickness is probably .11.
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
>A box end wrench, common blade screwdriver, and wide flat blade feeler
guage
>will see you through
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 15:26:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
Hot valve adjustments are preformed with the engine running..... really.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "Colin O'Brien" <cob@atg.com.au>
To: <dickb@cheerful.com>; <CAWS52803@aol.com>; "austin healey list"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 12:28 PM
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
>
> Hi Dick,
>
> That's a question I have often pondered. If it's supposed to be done "hot"
> then surely the engine is cooling down as you progress through the job? Am
I
> supposed to re-run the engine to warm it up again? This all sounds too
> silly to be practical (who said anything with Healeys had to be
practical!)
> so what is the general rule and is there a better way with a cold engine?
>
> Regards,
>
> Colin O'Brien
> Sydney Oz
>
> --
>
>
> > From: dickb@cheerful.com
> > Reply-To: dickb@cheerful.com
> > Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 14:03:25 -0400 (EDT)
> > To: CAWS52803@aol.com, austin healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
> >
> >
> > Rudy
> >
> > The answer is NO, but a better question is Hot or Cold and what
tolerance and
> > what is Hot enough, etc.
> >
> > DickB ;>)
> >
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> >>
> >> I'm in the process of re adjusting the valves on my 100/6, BN4 after an
> >> engine rebuild. I have the clearances from the Technical Data in the
> >> workshop manuals. My question is: Is there a sequence of adjusting?
Does it
> >> matter much? Thanks.
> >> Rudy in NC
> >>
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> >
>
>
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 19:38:02 +0800
Subject: Metric speedo
Hi All
I am looking for a metric speedo. ( ie the speed is in kilometres per hour
and the odometer is in kilometres - for those in the old fashioned
countries).
Perhaps someone from the European side of the list could help.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in reassembly mode. - In a metric country.
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 18:18:34 EDT
Subject: Valve adjustment
I wanted to thank all those you responded to my questions on the valves. It
never ceases to amaze me, the expertise and efficiency and variety of ways to
do something. My only question is: Why do some many of you sit at this
blasted computer when you could be outside on this beautiful day doing
something else?
Thanks again,
Rudy in NC
From "Colin O'Brien" <cob at atg.com.au>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 08:56:29 +1000
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
Because it was 3:30 am in Sydney and I was working!!
Regards,
Colin O'Brien
--
> From: CAWS52803@aol.com
> Reply-To: CAWS52803@aol.com
> Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 18:18:34 EDT
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Valve adjustment
>
>
> I wanted to thank all those you responded to my questions on the valves. It
> never ceases to amaze me, the expertise and efficiency and variety of ways to
> do something. My only question is: Why do some many of you sit at this
> blasted computer when you could be outside on this beautiful day doing
> something else?
> Thanks again,
> Rudy in NC
>
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 19:19:19 EDT
Subject: Re: No Subject
In a message dated 7/17/00 11:51:51 PM, rbender9@juno.com writes:
<<I am thinking about dipping the frame of my BJ7. I am particularly
interested in Redi-Strip, and would like to hear any experience with
dipping as opposed to blasting, acid-dip vs. alkali dips, etc.
Bob>>
Bob,
I think Redi-Strip would be the way to go with the frame. That way you'd be
sure of getting to the rust inside the frame boxes. My bugeye was
Redi-stripped about 15 years ago, now. I never had problems with solution
dripping or paint not sticking. The only problems will be if the interior of
your frame is exceptionally rusty, you might not have any frame left to work
with. Otherwise, you'll need to be able to inject the inner frame members
with some kind of protectant, ala Waxoyl, to keep the rust from coming back.
Regards,
Rick Neville
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 20:02:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Trans and Diff Seals
Hi, Jim --
I haven't had to change the rear seal of my tranny in the car, but the
pinion seal is not very difficult. Quoting from the workshop manual:
(1) Mark the propeller shaft and pinion shaft driving flanges so that they
can be replaced in the same relative positions, and disconnect the propeller
shaft, carefully supporting it.
(2) Using Service Tool 18G 34A (ed. note: or equivalent :-) to prevent
the pinion flange from turning, remove the nut and spring washer. Withdraw
the flange and pressed end cover from the pinion shaft using Service Tool
18G2 (ed. note: hmmm....mine just slid off).
(3) Extract the oil seal from the casing.
Replacement
(1) Press a new seal into the casing with the sealing edge facing inwards.
(2) Replace the driving flange and end-cover, taking care not to damage the
edge of the oil seal, and tighten the nut with a torque wrench to a reading
of 140 lb. ft (19.4 kg-m).
(3) Reconnect the propeller shaft, taking care to fit the two flanges with
the housing marks in alignment.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: James Sailer <sailer@srv.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 7:59 AM
Subject: Trans and Diff Seals
>
>Hi Folks,
>
>The motor rebuild on my BJ8 is great.... however, the rear seal on the
>trans is leaking badly as is the front seal on the differential. Just a
>quick question regarding the ease of installation of the new seals
mentioned
>while these components are still in the car..........?
>
>Thanks.....
>
>Yours leaking..
>
>Jim Sailer
>66 BJ8
>
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 20:20:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
>My only question is: Why do some many of you sit at this
>blasted computer when you could be outside on this beautiful day doing
>something else?
Can't afford to do anything else. Spent all my money on a Healey...
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
From TDTR3 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 20:27:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
In a message dated 7/18/2000 4:12:20 PM, cob@atg.com.au writes:
<< My only question is: Why do some many of you sit at this
> blasted computer when you could be outside on this beautiful day doing
> something else?
> Thanks again,
> Rudy in NC >>
Because it's 110 degrees out there.
Ken
58 BN4
Eloy Az.
From howard young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 20:20:03 -0500
Subject: Re:wish 2 purchase
Hey,Hey,Hey,
thanks to a fellow Healey-ite, i now only need 2 find a copy of #53
issue of "British Car" anyone who can help/refer/point in the rt.
direction contact me off line.......OH! and i got a new Beer Cooter, i
mean Koozie........ Thanks to all,
HoYo
From howard young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 20:41:28 -0500
Subject: Re: wish 2 purchase
OH YEAH! i think i used to date a chick that worked at that Redi-Strip
place....
HoYo
howard young wrote:
> Hey,Hey,Hey,
> thanks to a fellow Healey-ite, i now only need 2 find a copy of #53
> issue of "British Car" anyone who can help/refer/point in the rt.
> direction contact me off line.......OH! and i got a new Beer Cooter, i
> mean Koozie........ Thanks to all,
>
> HoYo
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 21:44:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
Colin
I'll expand my method a little as long as you like it.
First I adjust all the valves where the pushrods rotate easliy and the rockers
"rattle". Then I mark them with a piece of tape or chalk.
Then I bump the engine with the solenoid button (Make Sure the Ignition is OFF
and the coil to distributor wire is removed) and do the valves are not marked
and meet the requirements of paragraph One......and so on, until all of the
Valves have tape on them.
Since I only plan to do this once in a while, I usually go around twice.
Besides, it's sort of fun.
Good luck
DickB
---- you wrote:
> That all sounds very sensible, it's one of my "soon to do" jobs so that's
> how I'll do it.
>
> regards,
>
> Colin O'Brien
> --
>
>
> > From: dickb@cheerful.com
> > Reply-To: dickb@cheerful.com
> > Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 17:38:01 -0400 (EDT)
> > To: "Colin O'Brien" <cob@atg.com.au>, austin healey list
> > <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
> >
> >
> > Colin
> >
> > All of the Healey heads are of the same general design, yet some of the
>valve
> > covers said "Hot" and some said "Cold",
> >
> > For a while I figured that in the interest of my fingertip's health, I would
> > "adjust" for Hot (thinking that the pushrod elongated andthe valve stems
> > elongated, etc) and adjust the valves Cold. But then some wise engineer
>told
> > me that the elements of the valve train elongated with heat to
>self-cancelling
> > changes at the rocker/valvestem intersect - so I thereafter adjusted them
>Cold
> > at +.001 so as to be Sure that the valves were actually closing completely.
> >
> > On the theory "Noisy is Safer - there are no degrees of Silent"
> >
> > ;>)
> >
> > DickB
> > BT7-TriCarb
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi Dick,
> >>
> >> That's a question I have often pondered. If it's supposed to be done "hot"
> >> then surely the engine is cooling down as you progress through the job? Am
>I
> >> supposed to re-run the engine to warm it up again? This all sounds too
> >> silly to be practical (who said anything with Healeys had to be practical!)
> >> so what is the general rule and is there a better way with a cold engine?
> >>
> >> Regards,
> >>
> >> Colin O'Brien
> >> Sydney Oz
> >>
> >> --
> >>
> >>
> >>> From: dickb@cheerful.com
> >>> Reply-To: dickb@cheerful.com
> >>> Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 14:03:25 -0400 (EDT)
> >>> To: CAWS52803@aol.com, austin healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >>> Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Rudy
> >>>
> >>> The answer is NO, but a better question is Hot or Cold and what tolerance
> >>> and
> >>> what is Hot enough, etc.
> >>>
> >>> DickB ;>)
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> ---- you wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> I'm in the process of re adjusting the valves on my 100/6, BN4 after an
> >>>> engine rebuild. I have the clearances from the Technical Data in the
> >>>> workshop manuals. My question is: Is there a sequence of adjusting?
>Does
> >>>> it
> >>>> matter much? Thanks.
> >>>> Rudy in NC
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> >>>
> >>
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> >
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 21:59:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
In a message dated 7/18/2000 16:46:16 Central Daylight Time,
dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<< All of the Healey heads are of the same general design >>
Just good old truck engines.
Don
From Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp at juno.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 19:57:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Stripping vs Dipping vs blasting
That mirrors my experience with blasting. No matter how much cleaning you
do,
there will always be some of the media that blows out at just the right
time to
get painted into the surface. A very frustrating experience.
On Tue, 18 Jul 2000 09:25:23 -0400 "Ledwith, Ryan S"
<ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com> writes:
>
> Bob:
>
> I also had mine done by American Dry Stripping. It came out very
> clean, and
> only took 2 days. the only caveat I have with dry stripping is that
> you
> really need to get all the grit out of the frame before painting.
> Even
> though I blew off as much as I could with an air hose (with
> goggles), each
> time I tipped the frame on its side to paint the bottom, more sand
> came out
> of the cracks and ended up in the paint. bothersome.
>
> Ryan
> 64 BJ7
> Darien CT
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: CAWS52803@aol.com [mailto:CAWS52803@aol.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 7:05 AM
> To: rbender9@juno.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Stripping vs Dipping
>
>
>
> Hi Bob,
> I had my half Healey trailer done by American Dry Stripping in
> Bridgeport.
> They usually have an ad in the British Marque. I found them at a
> car show
> in
> Hartford doing a demo on a soda can. They removed all the paint and
> didn't
> hurt the aluminum can. They don't use a grit type of blast, so that
> it
> doesn't eat away the metal, just the dirt, paint and rust. Very
> impressive.
>
> Is this the same as Redi-Strip? I heard that with dipping, you can
> never
> get
> all the chemicals out of all the nooks and crannies. Hope this
> helps
> somewhat. See y'all at conclave.
> Rudy in NC
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From "Greg Monfort" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 23:35:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
Lorries, in the vernacular. :^))
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Just good old truck engines.
>
> Don
From "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc at earthlink.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 20:50:07 -0700
Subject: Re: Trans and Diff Seals
Hi Jim:
I do not believe that either seal is leaking.
Yes indeed the Healeys are leakers! But what you describe I corrected with
sealant between the drive shaft flange and the transmission flange.
Differential oil travels up the threads on the pinion shaft and throws out
between the two flanges.
So take those 4 bolts out, using two 9/16 wrenches, and put sealant
in-between the flanges. I used blue Hylomar. Silicon sealant would also
work. Reassemble (I used nylon locking nuts) then drive for some 500 miles
or so and then take it back apart. You will get then see how much oil
accumulates there. I just verified all this on Saturday.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----- Original Message -----
From: James Sailer <sailer@srv.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 4:51 AM
Subject: Trans and Diff Seals
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> The motor rebuild on my BJ8 is great.... however, the rear seal on the
> trans is leaking badly as is the front seal on the differential. Just a
> quick question regarding the ease of installation of the new seals
mentioned
> while these components are still in the car..........?
>
> Thanks.....
>
> Yours leaking..
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8
>
>
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 21:22:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
I once had a Dodge van where the manual actually specified that
you adjust the valves running. The adjusting bolts were self locking
somehow.
Adjusting the valves was an interesting experience, particularly so,
if I had an audience.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB
----- Original Message -----
From: frogeye <frogeye@gateway.net>
To: Colin O'Brien <cob@atg.com.au>; <dickb@cheerful.com>;
<CAWS52803@aol.com>; austin healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 5:26 PM
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
>
> Hot valve adjustments are preformed with the engine running..... really.
> Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> 59 AH :{) 54 BN1
>
> Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Colin O'Brien" <cob@atg.com.au>
> To: <dickb@cheerful.com>; <CAWS52803@aol.com>; "austin healey list"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 12:28 PM
> Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
>
>
> >
> > Hi Dick,
> >
> > That's a question I have often pondered. If it's supposed to be done
"hot"
> > then surely the engine is cooling down as you progress through the job?
Am
> I
> > supposed to re-run the engine to warm it up again? This all sounds too
> > silly to be practical (who said anything with Healeys had to be
> practical!)
> > so what is the general rule and is there a better way with a cold
engine?
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Colin O'Brien
> > Sydney Oz
> >
> > --
> >
> >
> > > From: dickb@cheerful.com
> > > Reply-To: dickb@cheerful.com
> > > Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 14:03:25 -0400 (EDT)
> > > To: CAWS52803@aol.com, austin healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
> > >
> > >
> > > Rudy
> > >
> > > The answer is NO, but a better question is Hot or Cold and what
> tolerance and
> > > what is Hot enough, etc.
> > >
> > > DickB ;>)
> > >
> > >
> > > ---- you wrote:
> > >>
> > >> I'm in the process of re adjusting the valves on my 100/6, BN4 after
an
> > >> engine rebuild. I have the clearances from the Technical Data in the
> > >> workshop manuals. My question is: Is there a sequence of adjusting?
> Does it
> > >> matter much? Thanks.
> > >> Rudy in NC
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
From TREVOR CHAPPLE <chapple at riverland.net.au>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 17:50:16 +0930
Subject: Healey Elliot wanted
I am looking for a Healey Elliot. Does anyone know of any for sale?
Trevor Chapple
From "UK Racing Castings" <Ukracingcastings at btinternet.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 12:08:13 +0100
Subject: Re: Healey Elliot wanted
The following has a Healey Elliot as follows:
Mike Cullingworth
Edlington, Doncaster
S.Yorkshire
Tel/fax 01709 864305
Intel +44 1709 86430
Registration JG0 892
1947 Healey Elliot, Raced at Le Mans 1949 (finished 13th)
raced 1950 (finished 19th)
Original chassis & engine, tuned by Freddy Dickson
Bodywork good condition, paint removed, woodwork done, all aluminium welded
where necessary
engine reconditioned, new shell bearings
"Restoration project that i dont have time to continue"
Offers in region £25k (gbp)
----- Original Message -----
From: TREVOR CHAPPLE <chapple@riverland.net.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2000 09:20
Subject: Healey Elliot wanted
>
> I am looking for a Healey Elliot. Does anyone know of any for sale?
>
> Trevor Chapple
>
From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 03:15:12 -0400
Subject: Re:BN1 Wiring Harness
Hi,
Would the gentleman who sent a post about the BN1 wiring harness please
contact me. I inadvertently deleted your message. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 07:34:34 EDT
Subject: Tach oil leak!
While driving this past weekend I experienced a slight (6-8 drops) oil leak
coming from the top end of the tachometer drive cable. It was obviously
engine oil--sorta dark and sooty looking. By tightening the knurled fitting
real well I seem to have stopped it from dripping on my right leg, but I am
concerned that oil may be working its way up into the tach head itself.
Oil level is fine, tach still operates right. What could be causing this?
TIA--Michael, BN1
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 09:38:22 -0400
Subject: RE: Valve adjustment
I'm at work...
-----Original Message-----
From: Lee S. Mairs [mailto:lmairs@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 8:20 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
>My only question is: Why do some many of you sit at this
>blasted computer when you could be outside on this beautiful day doing
>something else?
Can't afford to do anything else. Spent all my money on a Healey...
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
From "STEPHEN JOWETT" <enquiries at ukhealey.co.uk>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 14:44:00 +0100
Subject: Re: Tach oil leak!
Michael
There is a small oil seal in the tacho drive on the engine block. It will
have worn and the inner tacho cable will "worm" the oil up the inner cable.
Common problem!
Cheers.
Steve Jowett UK HEALEY
web-page:- www.ukhealey.co.uk
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 10:56:48 -0700
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
Dick,
You forgot to mention pulling the plugs.
Kirk
62BT7#3
26'T'RoadsterP/U
----- Original Message -----
From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
To: "Colin O'Brien" <cob@atg.com.au>; "austin healey list"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 6:44 PM
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
>
> Colin
>
> I'll expand my method a little as long as you like it.
>
> First I adjust all the valves where the pushrods rotate easliy and the
rockers "rattle". Then I mark them with a piece of tape or chalk.
>
> Then I bump the engine with the solenoid button (Make Sure the Ignition is
OFF and the coil to distributor wire is removed) and do the valves are not
marked and meet the requirements of paragraph One......and so on, until all
of the Valves have tape on them.
>
> Since I only plan to do this once in a while, I usually go around twice.
Besides, it's sort of fun.
>
> Good luck
>
> DickB
>
> ---- you wrote:
> > That all sounds very sensible, it's one of my "soon to do" jobs so
that's
> > how I'll do it.
> >
> > regards,
> >
> > Colin O'Brien
> > --
> >
> >
> > > From: dickb@cheerful.com
> > > Reply-To: dickb@cheerful.com
> > > Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 17:38:01 -0400 (EDT)
> > > To: "Colin O'Brien" <cob@atg.com.au>, austin healey list
> > > <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
> > >
> > >
> > > Colin
> > >
> > > All of the Healey heads are of the same general design, yet some of
the valve
> > > covers said "Hot" and some said "Cold",
> > >
> > > For a while I figured that in the interest of my fingertip's health, I
would
> > > "adjust" for Hot (thinking that the pushrod elongated andthe valve
stems
> > > elongated, etc) and adjust the valves Cold. But then some wise
engineer told
> > > me that the elements of the valve train elongated with heat to
self-cancelling
> > > changes at the rocker/valvestem intersect - so I thereafter adjusted
them Cold
> > > at +.001 so as to be Sure that the valves were actually closing
completely.
> > >
> > > On the theory "Noisy is Safer - there are no degrees of Silent"
> > >
> > > ;>)
> > >
> > > DickB
> > > BT7-TriCarb
> > >
> > > ---- you wrote:
> > >>
> > >> Hi Dick,
> > >>
> > >> That's a question I have often pondered. If it's supposed to be done
"hot"
> > >> then surely the engine is cooling down as you progress through the
job? Am I
> > >> supposed to re-run the engine to warm it up again? This all sounds
too
> > >> silly to be practical (who said anything with Healeys had to be
practical!)
> > >> so what is the general rule and is there a better way with a cold
engine?
> > >>
> > >> Regards,
> > >>
> > >> Colin O'Brien
> > >> Sydney Oz
> > >>
> > >> --
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>> From: dickb@cheerful.com
> > >>> Reply-To: dickb@cheerful.com
> > >>> Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 14:03:25 -0400 (EDT)
> > >>> To: CAWS52803@aol.com, austin healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > >>> Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> Rudy
> > >>>
> > >>> The answer is NO, but a better question is Hot or Cold and what
tolerance
> > >>> and
> > >>> what is Hot enough, etc.
> > >>>
> > >>> DickB ;>)
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> ---- you wrote:
> > >>>>
> > >>>> I'm in the process of re adjusting the valves on my 100/6, BN4
after an
> > >>>> engine rebuild. I have the clearances from the Technical Data in
the
> > >>>> workshop manuals. My question is: Is there a sequence of
adjusting? Does
> > >>>> it
> > >>>> matter much? Thanks.
> > >>>> Rudy in NC
> > >>>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> > >>>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> > >
> >
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 14:51:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
Dick Brill Wrote:
<< First I adjust all the valves where the pushrods rotate easliy and the
rockers "rattle". Then I mark them with a piece of tape or chalk.
>
> Then I bump the engine with the solenoid button (Make Sure the Ignition is
OFF and the coil to distributor wire is removed) and do the valves are not
marked and meet the requirements of paragraph One......and so on, until all
of the Valves have tape on them.
> >>
Dick--
Do I take off the pieces of tape afterwards?
Michael
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 14:54:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
In a message dated 7/18/00 6:21:16 PM, Drtrite@aol.com writes:
<< Just good old truck engines. >>
Actually, they're based on old Chevy stove-bolt sixes. Honestly!
You can look it up.
Cheers
Gary
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 15:14:10 -0400
Subject: September fun on the Chesapeake Bay
If there are any new Healey owners in the Washington-Baltimore nearby areas
lurking out there in cyberspace, be sure and check out the URL below for a
neat Healey event over the weekend of September 9-10.
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc/Events/Shore%202%20Shore/shore%202%20
shore.html
I'm a Healey newbie and can attest that the guys in the Capital Area Austin
Healey club are anxious to help folks out. Their advice has been incredibly
useful to me. Come and join the fun.
Lee
62 Mk II BT7 Tri-carb
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 15:22:33 -0400
Subject: Short Status - 3.5 Gears
We're officially on the home stretch ! Passed the halfway point yesterday -
now at 51.
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 15:34:05 -0400
Subject: RE: Valve adjustment
the old l-heads
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2000 2:54 PM
To: Drtrite@aol.com; dickb@cheerful.com; cob@atg.com.au;
healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
In a message dated 7/18/00 6:21:16 PM, Drtrite@aol.com writes:
<< Just good old truck engines. >>
Actually, they're based on old Chevy stove-bolt sixes. Honestly!
You can look it up.
Cheers
Gary
From robert hughes <dhugh at mail.tscnet.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 12:58:33 -0700
Subject: Relead
Does anyone have a comment about using a gasoline additive
called "Relead" from Marine Research and Development?
Thanks,
Robert Hughes
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 16:16:28 -0400
Subject: Distibutor
On the BJ 8 distributor, there is a bracket which grips a lip on the
distributor body to hold it in place once the timing has been
adjusted.......my problem is; when the distributor is pushed into the
bracket
the bracket can't contact the face on the engine block.....I mean, there is
a good 1/16" or more
between the bracket and the block, but the distributor itself is in as far
as it goes. If I push the bracket
down, it won't have a proper grip to hold the timing.......anybody know
what I'm talking about?
Stephen
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 16:35:52 -0400
Subject: Shore @ Shore 2000
Thanks for the plug Lee. I was just sitting down to draft a note to
the List about our event when your posting appeared. I'll add a
little more info, but I encourage you all to visit the Capital Area
web site to get more details.
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc/Events/Shore%202%20Shore/shore%202%20shore.html
The event will take place September 9-10 on both Maryland's Eastern
and Western shores of the Chesapeake Bay. There will be a crab feast
at the home of Bruce and Inan Phillips, a couple of scenic drives, a
car show at historic Belair Mansion in Bowie, Maryland as well as a
chance to visit historic Annapolis, Maryland. I hope many of our
local members will sign-up. We also encourage those of you who live
in Pensylvania, Deleware, the southern and Tidewater areas of
Virginia and maybe even the Carolinas to join us, too!
Please note that you should make your reservations as early as
possible at the Best Western in Annapolis, Maryland. (See the web
page for more details on this, too.)
For more information, e-mail Michael Oritt mailto:awgertoo@aol.com
(Note: We'll be heading to Conclave on Sunday, but he'll get back to
you when we return.)
At 3:14 PM -0400 7/19/00, Lee S. Mairs wrote:
>
>If there are any new Healey owners in the Washington-Baltimore nearby areas
>lurking out there in cyberspace, be sure and check out the URL below for a
>neat Healey event over the weekend of September 9-10.
Hasta m'Healey,
Herman
--
Capital Area Austin Healey Club
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 16:41:11 -0400
Subject: RE: Relead
I like using marvel mystery oil, 3-4 oz every other tankfull, I used relead,
still needed to do a valve job down the road.
-----Original Message-----
From: robert hughes [mailto:dhugh@mail.tscnet.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2000 3:59 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Relead
Does anyone have a comment about using a gasoline additive
called "Relead" from Marine Research and Development?
Thanks,
Robert Hughes
From "Ross Leonard" <rkleonard at sympatico.ca>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 16:38:34 -0400
Subject: Newest Owner - Harrison Ford?!?
That's right!
Just read an interview today while he was in Toronto. He just had his 58th
birthday, and for his gift his wife gave him a green 1966 Austin Healey
(don't know if it was a big or little Healey, though).
While we're on the subject, anyone know of any other "celebs" who are
owners?
Ross Leonard
'64 BJ8 parts that might come together someday and make a running car.
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 16:49:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Newest Owner - Harrison Ford?!?
In a message dated 7/19/00 13:41:58, rkleonard@sympatico.ca writes:
<< While we're on the subject, anyone know of any other "Celebs" who are
owners? >>
David letterman has a few. (admittedly at least 1, rumoured to have a car
collection in LA)
I heard (anecdotally) of Carroll Oconnor (sp) being in a bidding war with a
Healey owner over a rare hardtop for a BJ8.
Tim Allen (used on a coupl episodes of Home Improvement.
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 15:07:10 -0600
Subject: Re: Relead
Robert,
Given the "quality" of the swill we buy at the pumps these days, I
regularly recommend to my customers that they add any and all additives that
restore some of the lost chemical properties of gasoline as we once knew it.
I especially like the so called octane boosters. Better yet go to your local
airfield and buy 100 octane AVGAS. At about $2 per gal. is pretty close to
"premium" pump gas anyway.
Some say to dilute 50/50 with pump gas, I don't.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "robert hughes" <dhugh@mail.tscnet.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2000 1:58 PM
Subject: Relead
>
> Does anyone have a comment about using a gasoline additive
> called "Relead" from Marine Research and Development?
> Thanks,
> Robert Hughes
>
>
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 17:42:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Relead
Speaking of putting lead in your pencil, what octane are most of you using?
I'm getting ready to leave for Conclave (a 550 mile trip) and with the price
of 93 octane at $1.66 here in NC, I'm wondering if I can use a lower rating.
Rudy
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 17:43:17 EDT
Subject: Re: September fun on the Chesapeake Bay
In a message dated 7/19/00 3:27:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
lmairs@ix.netcom.com writes:
<< http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc/Events/Shore%202%20Shore/shore%202%2
0
shore.html >>
Folks--
Apparently the address in Lee's post is either incorrect or not operative at
the moment. However, please go to the Capital Area Austin-Healey Club
Website at http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc/ Or contact me and
I will send you further information.
This promises to be a great weekend of fun driving, good fellowship and great
food. Please consider joining us.
Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD.
CAAHC Activities Chairperson
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 18:00:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Shore @ Shore 2000
In a message dated 7/19/00 4:36:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
herman@hfphoto.com writes:
<< Thanks for the plug Lee. I was just sitting down to draft a note to
the List about our event when your posting appeared. I'll add a
little more info, but I encourage you all to visit the Capital Area
web site to get more details. >>
Go ahead, accuse me of Shameless Self-promotion! It's in the name of a great
cause--that being getting together with other Healeyists and doing what we
like best: Driving our cars and sharing them with each other.
At the risk of consuming too much bandwidth let me just say that this weekend
event will feature two drives through lovely rural areas of both the eastern
and Western shores of Maryland's Chespaeake Bay. Saturday will be an easy
ride in the country terminating at the Annapolis Best Western, our Host
Hotel. There will be free shuttle service to Nap Town's historic district,
and if you have never been there you really owe it to you and your whoever to
pay a visit. Great restaurants and world-class bars!
Sunday's drive will be a non-TSD (time-speed-distance) rallye through Horse
and Tobacco country--no yelling will be necessary as all you have to do is
follow (very obscure) instructions! I guarantee that you'll have fun on this
one! The rallye terminates at historic Belaire Mansion where we'll have ready
for you an outstanding BBQ lunch, coupled with a Popularity car show and
awards (No, you can't vote for yourself!).
Come join us for a great weekend, and contact me for further information.
Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD.
CAAHC Events Chairperson
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 15:03:43 -0700
Subject: RE: Distributor
Stephen,
Are you quite sure that the distributor is all the way down? You should lube
the O ring on the distributor and double check that the shaft dogs are
correctly aligned. There is a slight width difference between the two slots
for the dogs. Even then it is a very hard push. Try some measurements to
make sure you are seated.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: S.HUTCHINGS [mailto:hutching@myna.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2000 1:16 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Distibutor
On the BJ 8 distributor, there is a bracket which grips a lip on the
distributor body to hold it in place once the timing has been
adjusted.......my problem is; when the distributor is pushed into the
bracket
the bracket can't contact the face on the engine block.....I mean, there is
a good 1/16" or more
between the bracket and the block, but the distributor itself is in as far
as it goes. If I push the bracket
down, it won't have a proper grip to hold the timing.......anybody know
what I'm talking about?
Stephen
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 09:40:00 +1000
Subject: Re: Healey Elliot wanted
G'day Trevor
There are three Healey Elliots in Australia and one in NZ. So the chances of
them coming up for sale are quite low.
However I do know of a Healey Westland for sale in Sydney and a Tickford
that
hasn't turned a wheel for many years is for sale in Adelaide. The Westland
is
a going car and ready to drive home.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>>> TREVOR CHAPPLE 19/07/00 18:20:16 >>>
I am looking for a Healey Elliot. Does anyone know of any for sale?
Trevor Chapple
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 20:06:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Distibutor
At the risk of stating the obvious....have you turned the rotor to the one and
only position where the drive dogs engage in the slot in the distributor drive
spindle?
I would suggest that you try fitting the distributor with out the clamp in
place then check how far the distributor goes down after the dog is engaged.
A note of caution....Do not over tighten the clamp bolt. It is very easy to
crack the clamp ring on the distributor body.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
"S.HUTCHINGS" wrote:
> On the BJ 8 distributor, there is a bracket which grips a lip on the
> distributor body to hold it in place once the timing has been
> adjusted.......my problem is; when the distributor is pushed into the
> bracket
> the bracket can't contact the face on the engine block.....I mean, there is
> a good 1/16" or more
> between the bracket and the block, but the distributor itself is in as far
> as it goes. If I push the bracket
> down, it won't have a proper grip to hold the timing.......anybody know
> what I'm talking about?
> Stephen
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 20:12:09 -0400
Subject: Distributor; now Red Face
Thanks Ken, for your comments....but I have to come clean and admit I had
the damn thing 180 degrees out. You would think that this would be the most
obvious thing to check, but I thought I had
preserved the timing when I took it out......wrong!
So, once again, never assume anything, particularly that your memory is
functioning properly!
Stephen, BJ 8
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 10:27:12 +1000
Subject: Re: Healey Elliot wanted
G'day Trevor
There are three Healey Elliots in Australia and one in NZ. So the chances of
them coming up for sale are quite low.
However I do know of a Healey Westland roadster for sale in Sydney and a
Tickford saloon that hasn't turned a wheel for many years is for sale in
Adelaide. The Westland is a going car and ready to drive home.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>>> TREVOR CHAPPLE 19/07/00 18:20:16 >>>
I am looking for a Healey Elliot. Does anyone know of any for sale?
Trevor Chapple
From Mark Fawcett <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 17:52:14 -0700
Subject: X-Men Healey
Just saw the new X-Men movie. There's a nice red BJ8 and E-Type
featured in a garage shot. Does it belong to anyone on the list?
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 18:18:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Relead
I use 94 in my BT7, just about everything lower causes pinging....Neil in
Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2000 2:42 PM
Subject: Re: Relead
>
> Speaking of putting lead in your pencil, what octane are most of you
using?
> I'm getting ready to leave for Conclave (a 550 mile trip) and with the
price
> of 93 octane at $1.66 here in NC, I'm wondering if I can use a lower
rating.
> Rudy
>
From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 21:49:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Relead
Rudy-
Just had you engine rebuilt, I would not consider anything but "premium"
petrol.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
President & Delegate of Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
Concours Committee Chairman- Judges & Judging
AHCA Liason for Concours
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 19:02:18 -0700
Subject: Metric Speedo
To the person who was looking for a metric speedometer: I'm sorry, but I
hit the delete key too fast.
You posted a question about obtaining a speedometer calibrated in metrics
(km/hr).
You might want to contact Palo Alto Speedometer in Palo Alto, CA, USA.
They do very good work. Their e-mail address is: paspeedo@pacbell.net.
Ask for Hartmut.
They just did the instruments for my BN7 MK2, and they are great. They
bring the new faces in from England, and I will bet they could put a metric
face on yours.
John Snyder
'60 BT7
'61 BN7 MK2
'62 BT7 MK2
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 22:04:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Relead
I've just moved up to 93 from 87 simply because it seems to insure against
pinging if the ignition is a little too far advanced. Joe Elmer (53BN1)
CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
> Speaking of putting lead in your pencil, what octane are most of you using?
> I'm getting ready to leave for Conclave (a 550 mile trip) and with the price
> of 93 octane at $1.66 here in NC, I'm wondering if I can use a lower rating.
> Rudy
From Mark Fawcett <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 21:03:40 -0700
Subject: Wiring Harness
I'm going to buying a new complete harness soon. I was hoping to get
some guidance from the list as to which company produces the better
harness, Moss, VB or British Wiring or others, Any help is appreciated.
Mark Fawcett
'60 BT7
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 22:14:32 +0100
Subject: Re: Tach oil leak!
Michael
As Steve Jowett says it is almost certain that the oil seal in the right
angle drive housing above the oil pump has failed. This is faily easy to
change but I suggest that you do not attempt to remove the whole main
housing but instead unscrew the shaft bearing system turning the large
hex section. You can then change the oil seal at ease on the bench.
Recently we have had trouble locating replacements seals but have now
found a source for a small number. If you run into trouble I have the
seal dimensions somewhere.
Incidentally the same seal is used in early Austin saloon speedometer
drives.
John
>
>While driving this past weekend I experienced a slight (6-8 drops) oil leak
>coming from the top end of the tachometer drive cable. It was obviously
>engine oil--sorta dark and sooty looking. By tightening the knurled fitting
>real well I seem to have stopped it from dripping on my right leg, but I am
>concerned that oil may be working its way up into the tach head itself.
>Oil level is fine, tach still operates right. What could be causing this?
>
>TIA--Michael, BN1
--
John Harper
From lsyoung <lsyoung at banet.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 08:44:55 -0400
Subject: Re: X-Men Healey
Not mine, however when I saw the xmen this past weekend at the drive in,
I was in my Colorado Red Healey!
Mark Fawcett wrote:
> Just saw the new X-Men movie. There's a nice red BJ8 and E-Type
> featured in a garage shot. Does it belong to anyone on the list?
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 06:53:48 -0600
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
Peter,
I forget now what manufacturer had them, but adjustable hydraulic lifters
were set with the engine running, probably your Dodge. A wide blade
screwdriver with tabs at either end of the blade helped keep the screwdriver
from slideing off the set screw. The process is pretty hard on the feeler
guage too.......and actually the results were pretty poor, as the "feel" for
the clearance is marginal at best.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "austin healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 7:22 PM
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
>
> I once had a Dodge van where the manual actually specified that
> you adjust the valves running. The adjusting bolts were self locking
> somehow.
>
> Adjusting the valves was an interesting experience, particularly so,
> if I had an audience.
>
> Peter Schauss
> Long Island, NY
> 1963 BJ7
> 1980 MGB
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: frogeye <frogeye@gateway.net>
> To: Colin O'Brien <cob@atg.com.au>; <dickb@cheerful.com>;
> <CAWS52803@aol.com>; austin healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 5:26 PM
> Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
>
>
> >
> > Hot valve adjustments are preformed with the engine running..... really.
> > Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> > 59 AH :{) 54 BN1
> >
> > Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> >
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Colin O'Brien" <cob@atg.com.au>
> > To: <dickb@cheerful.com>; <CAWS52803@aol.com>; "austin healey list"
> > <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 12:28 PM
> > Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Hi Dick,
> > >
> > > That's a question I have often pondered. If it's supposed to be done
> "hot"
> > > then surely the engine is cooling down as you progress through the
job?
> Am
> > I
> > > supposed to re-run the engine to warm it up again? This all sounds
too
> > > silly to be practical (who said anything with Healeys had to be
> > practical!)
> > > so what is the general rule and is there a better way with a cold
> engine?
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > Colin O'Brien
> > > Sydney Oz
> > >
> > > --
> > >
> > >
> > > > From: dickb@cheerful.com
> > > > Reply-To: dickb@cheerful.com
> > > > Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 14:03:25 -0400 (EDT)
> > > > To: CAWS52803@aol.com, austin healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Rudy
> > > >
> > > > The answer is NO, but a better question is Hot or Cold and what
> > tolerance and
> > > > what is Hot enough, etc.
> > > >
> > > > DickB ;>)
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ---- you wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >> I'm in the process of re adjusting the valves on my 100/6, BN4
after
> an
> > > >> engine rebuild. I have the clearances from the Technical Data in
the
> > > >> workshop manuals. My question is: Is there a sequence of
adjusting?
> > Does it
> > > >> matter much? Thanks.
> > > >> Rudy in NC
> > > >>
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
From "Sam Marble" <samncyna at netzero.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 11:24:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Wiring Harness
I've always had good experiences dealing with British Wiring. They can
also be quite helpful answering any wiring related questions.
Sam
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Fawcett <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2000 12:03 AM
Subject: Wiring Harness
>
> I'm going to buying a new complete harness soon. I was hoping to
get
> some guidance from the list as to which company produces the better
> harness, Moss, VB or British Wiring or others, Any help is
appreciated.
>
> Mark Fawcett
> '60 BT7
>
>
____________NetZero Free Internet Access and Email_________
Download Now http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
___________________________________________________________
From ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit at juno.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 12:01:34 -0400
Subject: Lead, relead and benzene.
When the folks in Detroit began designing engines with increased
compression ratios they (and their ilk across the sea) recognized the
need of a controlled compressed fuel burn. Lead had been an additive for
some time to....please get this......PROVIDE UPPER VALVE TRAIN
LUBRICATION. LEAD LUBRICATES THE VALES, SEATS AND STEMS AND GUIDES IN AN
INTERNAL COMBUSTION ENGINE.
Those same engineers found that lead in the TETRAETHYL form would provide
the lubricity needed for the UPPER VALVE TRAIN A N D help control the
burn...even it out....and actually SLOW it down so more complete
combustion would occur.....enter octane ratings....the higher the octane
the more flammable the fuel.
Benzene is an aromatic with extreme volatility and is used as an aromatic
to make gasoline smell better. Xylene and other "lenes" also increase
volatility. Most are carcinogens....they are known to cause cancer.
These are the items used in OCTANE ENHANCERS SUCH AS RELEAD.....READ THE
LABEL. All of these "lenes" are already in gasoline and are now used to
substitute for the secondary benefit of tetraethyl lead that being the
issue of octane enhancement. BUT....and get this....when the EPA in
effect OUTLAWED tetraethyl lead by preventing gasoline operators from
allowing it to be pumped....in that very same report the EPA said and I
paraphrase..."there is no known substitute for lead and its benefit to
upper valve train lubrication."
Stainless steel valve faces were developed for propane gas use along with
hardened valve seats also used for aluminum heads. Silicon bronze
magnesium guides wear more slowly than cast guides....this was the answer
to the primary benefit of using tetraethyl lead......make things harder
to last a little longer and realize they will wear out because they
really are not getting in lubrication.
I have been selling concentrated tetraethyl lead or TEL for several years
directly to customers who put it in their own gasoline tanks...all quite
legal since the OUTLAWING pertains ONLY to those involved with commercial
gasoline sales. TEL coats the surface of valves stems and valves
providing a "cushion" against the valve slapping down in its seat and the
stems gliding through the guides. I again refer the original EPA report
solely identifying TEL as the ONLY known lubricant for this portion of
the engine. The recommend dose...about 4 ounces per 7 gallons makes
gasoline roughly equivalent to 1960 "regular"....double the dose and you
have 1960 "Ethyl"...triple and you have "Super Ethyl"...the last two have
more to do with increased octane. I personally own 15 British sports
cars and several old tractors and lawn mowers all of which routinely use
gasoline with TEL added and I have never had to have any valve work done
on these engines.....UNTIL the pistons rings wear out when if makes sense
to at least relap the valves.
I offer this to the group to both inform and offer a TRUE alternative to
expensive and unnecessary machine work for items destined to wear out and
to unnecessary purchase of "SNAKE OIL" products of which there are
plenty. I know of only one product sold across the counter containing
TEL and the quantity is minimal compared to the concentrated form I
offer.
Regards
Robert Kirk
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 09:38:29 -0700
Subject: RE: Lead, relead and benzene.
"the higher the octane the more flammable the fuel" I thought higher octane
fuels burned slower, by design, to avoid "pinging" therefore, wouldn't
they have a lower flash point and be less flammable? I'm not trying to
pick apart your statement, I really don't know much about all this. Just
trying to get it clear in my mind, I've always thought that higher octane
burned slower...... JP
-----Original Message-----
From: ROBERT KIRK [mailto:kirkbrit@juno.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2000 9:02 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Lead, relead and benzene.
When the folks in Detroit began designing engines with increased
compression ratios they (and their ilk across the sea) recognized the
need of a controlled compressed fuel burn. Lead had been an additive for
some time to....please get this......PROVIDE UPPER VALVE TRAIN
LUBRICATION. LEAD LUBRICATES THE VALES, SEATS AND STEMS AND GUIDES IN AN
INTERNAL COMBUSTION ENGINE.
Those same engineers found that lead in the TETRAETHYL form would provide
the lubricity needed for the UPPER VALVE TRAIN A N D help control the
burn...even it out....and actually SLOW it down so more complete
combustion would occur.....enter octane ratings....the higher the octane
the more flammable the fuel.
Benzene is an aromatic with extreme volatility and is used as an aromatic
to make gasoline smell better. Xylene and other "lenes" also increase
volatility. Most are carcinogens....they are known to cause cancer.
These are the items used in OCTANE ENHANCERS SUCH AS RELEAD.....READ THE
LABEL. All of these "lenes" are already in gasoline and are now used to
substitute for the secondary benefit of tetraethyl lead that being the
issue of octane enhancement. BUT....and get this....when the EPA in
effect OUTLAWED tetraethyl lead by preventing gasoline operators from
allowing it to be pumped....in that very same report the EPA said and I
paraphrase..."there is no known substitute for lead and its benefit to
upper valve train lubrication."
Stainless steel valve faces were developed for propane gas use along with
hardened valve seats also used for aluminum heads. Silicon bronze
magnesium guides wear more slowly than cast guides....this was the answer
to the primary benefit of using tetraethyl lead......make things harder
to last a little longer and realize they will wear out because they
really are not getting in lubrication.
I have been selling concentrated tetraethyl lead or TEL for several years
directly to customers who put it in their own gasoline tanks...all quite
legal since the OUTLAWING pertains ONLY to those involved with commercial
gasoline sales. TEL coats the surface of valves stems and valves
providing a "cushion" against the valve slapping down in its seat and the
stems gliding through the guides. I again refer the original EPA report
solely identifying TEL as the ONLY known lubricant for this portion of
the engine. The recommend dose...about 4 ounces per 7 gallons makes
gasoline roughly equivalent to 1960 "regular"....double the dose and you
have 1960 "Ethyl"...triple and you have "Super Ethyl"...the last two have
more to do with increased octane. I personally own 15 British sports
cars and several old tractors and lawn mowers all of which routinely use
gasoline with TEL added and I have never had to have any valve work done
on these engines.....UNTIL the pistons rings wear out when if makes sense
to at least relap the valves.
I offer this to the group to both inform and offer a TRUE alternative to
expensive and unnecessary machine work for items destined to wear out and
to unnecessary purchase of "SNAKE OIL" products of which there are
plenty. I know of only one product sold across the counter containing
TEL and the quantity is minimal compared to the concentrated form I
offer.
Regards
Robert Kirk
From ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit at juno.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 13:05:52 -0400
Subject: Fw: Re: Lead, relead and benzene.
--------- Forwarded message ----------
From: ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit@juno.com>
To: John.Pagel@iMotors.com
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 12:53:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Lead, relead and benzene.
Message-ID: <20000720.125332.-43037383.1.kirkbrit@juno.com>
X-Mailer: Juno 4.0.9
MIME-Version: 1.0
Full-Name: ROBERT KIRK
If you will read what I said prior to the quoted statement you will see
that is exactly what happens. Pinging is caused by improper and
incomplete ignition of the fuel...detonation of part of the mixture which
detonates another part......creating more than one explosion or a
preexplosion....octane increases combustability by slowing the explosion
to provide an one single even burn from ignition through the compressed
fuel (slowing in effect) the ignition of fuel which I will term
explosion....an even burn through the fuel creates a single slower more
complete detonation of fuel
On Thu, 20 Jul 2000 09:38:29 -0700 "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel@iMotors.com>
writes:
> "the higher the octane the more flammable the fuel" I thought higher
> octane
> fuels burned slower, by design, to avoid "pinging" therefore,
> wouldn't
> they have a lower flash point and be less flammable? I'm not
> trying to
> pick apart your statement, I really don't know much about all this.
> Just
> trying to get it clear in my mind, I've always thought that higher
> octane
> burned slower...... JP
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ROBERT KIRK [mailto:kirkbrit@juno.com]
> Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2000 9:02 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Lead, relead and benzene.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> When the folks in Detroit began designing engines with increased
> compression ratios they (and their ilk across the sea) recognized
> the
> need of a controlled compressed fuel burn. Lead had been an
> additive for
> some time to....please get this......PROVIDE UPPER VALVE TRAIN
> LUBRICATION. LEAD LUBRICATES THE VALES, SEATS AND STEMS AND GUIDES
> IN AN
> INTERNAL COMBUSTION ENGINE.
> Those same engineers found that lead in the TETRAETHYL form would
> provide
> the lubricity needed for the UPPER VALVE TRAIN A N D help control
> the
> burn...even it out....and actually SLOW it down so more complete
> combustion would occur.....enter octane ratings....the higher the
> octane
> the more flammable the fuel.
> Benzene is an aromatic with extreme volatility and is used as an
> aromatic
> to make gasoline smell better. Xylene and other "lenes" also
> increase
> volatility. Most are carcinogens....they are known to cause cancer.
>
> These are the items used in OCTANE ENHANCERS SUCH AS RELEAD.....READ
> THE
> LABEL. All of these "lenes" are already in gasoline and are now
> used to
> substitute for the secondary benefit of tetraethyl lead that being
> the
> issue of octane enhancement. BUT....and get this....when the EPA in
> effect OUTLAWED tetraethyl lead by preventing gasoline operators
> from
> allowing it to be pumped....in that very same report the EPA said
> and I
> paraphrase..."there is no known substitute for lead and its benefit
> to
> upper valve train lubrication."
> Stainless steel valve faces were developed for propane gas use along
> with
> hardened valve seats also used for aluminum heads. Silicon bronze
> magnesium guides wear more slowly than cast guides....this was the
> answer
> to the primary benefit of using tetraethyl lead......make things
> harder
> to last a little longer and realize they will wear out because they
> really are not getting in lubrication.
> I have been selling concentrated tetraethyl lead or TEL for several
> years
> directly to customers who put it in their own gasoline tanks...all
> quite
> legal since the OUTLAWING pertains ONLY to those involved with
> commercial
> gasoline sales. TEL coats the surface of valves stems and valves
> providing a "cushion" against the valve slapping down in its seat
> and the
> stems gliding through the guides. I again refer the original EPA
> report
> solely identifying TEL as the ONLY known lubricant for this portion
> of
> the engine. The recommend dose...about 4 ounces per 7 gallons makes
> gasoline roughly equivalent to 1960 "regular"....double the dose and
> you
> have 1960 "Ethyl"...triple and you have "Super Ethyl"...the last two
> have
> more to do with increased octane. I personally own 15 British
> sports
> cars and several old tractors and lawn mowers all of which routinely
> use
> gasoline with TEL added and I have never had to have any valve work
> done
> on these engines.....UNTIL the pistons rings wear out when if makes
> sense
> to at least relap the valves.
> I offer this to the group to both inform and offer a TRUE
> alternative to
> expensive and unnecessary machine work for items destined to wear
> out and
> to unnecessary purchase of "SNAKE OIL" products of which there are
> plenty. I know of only one product sold across the counter
> containing
> TEL and the quantity is minimal compared to the concentrated form I
> offer.
> Regards
> Robert Kirk
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 14:26:53 EDT
Subject: Fw: Re: Lead, relead and benzene.
OK Robert, someone has to ask so I will volunteer: Is there a charge for
this stuff, and if so how much? And please give us your opinion on what
concentration (dilution) should be used in stock, unmodified engines--that
is, with original valves, guides and compression ratios.
Thanks-Michael Oritt
From Mark Fawcett <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 12:37:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Lead, relead and benzene.
Gasoline (all octanes) have a flash point around minus 45 degrees F. Tetra
Ethyl Lead simply lubricates and slows the burn rate so that all (or most) of
the fuels energy can be used. No increase in flammability.
"Pagel, John" wrote:
> "the higher the octane the more flammable the fuel" I thought higher octane
> fuels burned slower, by design, to avoid "pinging" therefore, wouldn't
> they have a lower flash point and be less flammable? I'm not trying to
> pick apart your statement, I really don't know much about all this. Just
> trying to get it clear in my mind, I've always thought that higher octane
> burned slower...... JP
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ROBERT KIRK [mailto:kirkbrit@juno.com]
> Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2000 9:02 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Lead, relead and benzene.
>
> When the folks in Detroit began designing engines with increased
> compression ratios they (and their ilk across the sea) recognized the
> need of a controlled compressed fuel burn. Lead had been an additive for
> some time to....please get this......PROVIDE UPPER VALVE TRAIN
> LUBRICATION. LEAD LUBRICATES THE VALES, SEATS AND STEMS AND GUIDES IN AN
> INTERNAL COMBUSTION ENGINE.
> Those same engineers found that lead in the TETRAETHYL form would provide
> the lubricity needed for the UPPER VALVE TRAIN A N D help control the
> burn...even it out....and actually SLOW it down so more complete
> combustion would occur.....enter octane ratings....the higher the octane
> the more flammable the fuel.
> Benzene is an aromatic with extreme volatility and is used as an aromatic
> to make gasoline smell better. Xylene and other "lenes" also increase
> volatility. Most are carcinogens....they are known to cause cancer.
> These are the items used in OCTANE ENHANCERS SUCH AS RELEAD.....READ THE
> LABEL. All of these "lenes" are already in gasoline and are now used to
> substitute for the secondary benefit of tetraethyl lead that being the
> issue of octane enhancement. BUT....and get this....when the EPA in
> effect OUTLAWED tetraethyl lead by preventing gasoline operators from
> allowing it to be pumped....in that very same report the EPA said and I
> paraphrase..."there is no known substitute for lead and its benefit to
> upper valve train lubrication."
> Stainless steel valve faces were developed for propane gas use along with
> hardened valve seats also used for aluminum heads. Silicon bronze
> magnesium guides wear more slowly than cast guides....this was the answer
> to the primary benefit of using tetraethyl lead......make things harder
> to last a little longer and realize they will wear out because they
> really are not getting in lubrication.
> I have been selling concentrated tetraethyl lead or TEL for several years
> directly to customers who put it in their own gasoline tanks...all quite
> legal since the OUTLAWING pertains ONLY to those involved with commercial
> gasoline sales. TEL coats the surface of valves stems and valves
> providing a "cushion" against the valve slapping down in its seat and the
> stems gliding through the guides. I again refer the original EPA report
> solely identifying TEL as the ONLY known lubricant for this portion of
> the engine. The recommend dose...about 4 ounces per 7 gallons makes
> gasoline roughly equivalent to 1960 "regular"....double the dose and you
> have 1960 "Ethyl"...triple and you have "Super Ethyl"...the last two have
> more to do with increased octane. I personally own 15 British sports
> cars and several old tractors and lawn mowers all of which routinely use
> gasoline with TEL added and I have never had to have any valve work done
> on these engines.....UNTIL the pistons rings wear out when if makes sense
> to at least relap the valves.
> I offer this to the group to both inform and offer a TRUE alternative to
> expensive and unnecessary machine work for items destined to wear out and
> to unnecessary purchase of "SNAKE OIL" products of which there are
> plenty. I know of only one product sold across the counter containing
> TEL and the quantity is minimal compared to the concentrated form I
> offer.
> Regards
> Robert Kirk
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 15:59:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Wiring Harness
Hi, Mark --
The harnesses may all originate at the same manufacturer for all I know, but
I bought the harness for my BJ8 from British Wiring and I am very happy with
it. It fit exactly, was easy to install, and the wires were the proper
color and had the proper terminals according to the wiring diagram, with one
exception: the steering column harness contained wires that were the same
color as those connected to the front turn signal pigtails, while by the
diagram they should be different. Once I figured out which terminals in the
turn signal/horn assembly got connected to each wire I was in business.
Since these wires aren't visible anyway and my car isn't concours, I didn't
mind. I let British Wiring know about this (and was surprised no one else
apparently had ever told them that), so they may have corrected that
discrepancy by now.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Fawcett <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, July 20, 2000 1:01 AM
Subject: Wiring Harness
>
>I'm going to buying a new complete harness soon. I was hoping to get
>some guidance from the list as to which company produces the better
>harness, Moss, VB or British Wiring or others, Any help is appreciated.
>
>Mark Fawcett
>'60 BT7
>
From BGAHC at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 16:40:24 EDT
Subject: Wander Indiana Tour
Just a note that we are all set to go on the Wander Indiana/Conclave 2000
Tour and all are invited. I expect about 15 cars to participate. We will
leave from the Thornton's Gas Station promptly at 10 AM Eastern Daylight time
(same time as Kentucky) on Sunday. The Bluegrass club is insistent about
OnTime starts so please be on time. The Thorntons Station is located off I-65
at exit 0 in Jeffersonville, Indiana. Immediately as you cross the Ohio River
you will see exit 0.
The first leg is a 120 mile drive through Southern Indiana to a Lunch stop in
Nashville, IN. Nashville is an Artists colony/tourist town with lots of
unique shops. Then north and cut straight through Indianapolis to the
Conclave hotel.
Just a note for those attending Conclave. Indiana does not observe Daylight
savings time. Indy is on Eastern Standard Time but not Eastern Daylight
Savings time so they are one hour behind Eastern Daylight Time in the summer.
Some counties bordering another state do observe Eastern Daylight time and
refer to the difference as slow time and fast time. Some parts of Indiana are
on Central time. Some parts of Indiana are fifteen years behind the times.
Basically it's confusing as hell so never assume you know what time it is.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From Dmrams at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 16:42:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Lead, relead and benzene.
Flash point...How cold?
From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 17:14:04 EDT
Subject: octane & relead
I asked around a few years back about Relead and everything I heard suggested
it was a good product and did the job of helping protect from excessive valve
wear. I've used it for years, not in every tank, but maye 80% of my fill-ups.
Int he Denver area, "regular" octane is 85, "mid-range" 87, and "premium" 91.
I've noticed that when driving west from here, the octane seems to increase
when I get to Utah, maybe by 2 points, and on the west coast it runs from 87
to 93, the same 2-point increase. The difference has something to do with
our altitude -- at 5000+ feet we don't need the same octane as at a few
hundred feet or sea level.
I've run 91 octane on both my 3000 (when I had it) and 87 on the 100 and have
RARELY experienced pinging. I typically set the timing aobut 3-5 degrees
further advanced than the book calls for (because of altitude we run in) and
make fine adjustments using the micrometer ont he distributer should I hear
pinging. Unfortunately, my hearing has gone down hill the past few years, so
I might not have heard it every time.
Another aspect to consider -- these restored cars will typically NOT be
driven hard, as in racing conditions. With "consideration" to their age they
will last longer than any of you (once your rebuilds are finished), so I'm
not convinced it is worth worrying about the nth bit of perfection when it
comes to octane or additives or even wheels and tires.
Roger
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 17:32:01 -0500
Subject: octane & additives
Hi All,
I always tell my customers to save their money when it comes to
additives. That stuff can become quite costly, and you are much better off
saving that money for a 'proper' unleaded cylinder head conversion. My
theory is: If it were truly beneficial, the oil companies would be including
it in the fuel and charging you for it. Some have expressed concern that
today's fuels may contribute to premature failure of fuel system components,
particularly rubber items. This may be the case, but it is doubtful another
additive would appreciably lessen that effect. Again, save your money for
the repairs, and buy the best replacements you can.
On the subject of octane, you should use the lowest octane your car can
handle without pinging. Typically, Hundreds will run on low octane fuel (not
100M), whereas six cylinder cars prefer at least mid grade. Of course, this
varies based on compression ratio, state of tune, carbon deposits, timing,
mixture, and a host of other factors, not the least of which is the honesty
of your local station owner! Octane is a measure of resistance to
detonation, so an increase in octane above the level necessary to prevent
spontaneous combustion results in LESS power, not more. Service stations
make the most money off super unleaded gas, people seem to think that they
are buying something "better" and are willing to pay for it whether they
need to or not. The fuel companies are certainly not going to discourage you
from buying it. So put the money in your pocket, not theirs. Hope this adds
to the confusion ;-) ---Peter (BMC Restorations)
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 07:20:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Relead
Send some up here. It's been running $1.999 here on Long Island.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB
----- Original Message -----
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2000 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: Relead
>
> Speaking of putting lead in your pencil, what octane are most of you
using?
> I'm getting ready to leave for Conclave (a 550 mile trip) and with the
price
> of 93 octane at $1.66 here in NC, I'm wondering if I can use a lower
rating.
> Rudy
>
From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 20:46:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Wiring Harness
Mark,
I just finished installing one from Justbrits and it was exactly as original
and very good quality. All the wires ended exactly where they should have.
All the colors match the factory wiring diagram and my old harness. I am not
sure which manufacturer made it, but I think it was British Wiring.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From Mark Fawcett <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 17:58:00 -0700
Subject: Re: Lead, relead and benzene.
I'm not sure I understand the question. Flash point is the temperature
that a flammable liquid gives off enough vapor to sustain combustion.
Gasoline volitilizes at about minus 45 degrees F. It's because of this
low flash point that gasoline is used as a fuel every where, whether the
temperature is below zero or 120 degrees F.
Mark Fawcett
Senior Fire Inspector
Torrance, CA
'60 BT7
Dmrams@aol.com wrote:
> Flash point...How cold?
From ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit at juno.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 21:08:55 -0400
Subject: Re: octane & relead
Roger,
You are absolutely correct about the anticipaited wear of a resto4eed AH
but several folks here actually drive their cars to somehing other than
the VAUNTED COUCOURS SUBJECTIVE, HANDS LAYING EVENTS of which you refer
....BUT I am not talking about race conditions nor JUDGEMENT DAYS:
Octane boosters DO NOT lubricate the upper valve train.
THAT IS A FACT OFFERED BY THE EPA IN ITS DISCUSSION TO BAN THE PRODUCT.
Octane enhancement is only a secondary benefit of TEL....
Its PRIMARY benefit is to provide the lubrication or cushion for upper
valve train components..........
TEL is the only product whose intention is to lubricate.......the "zene"
family can offfer enhanced and greater OCTANE ratings but at a far
greater cost to person, environment and spaceship EARTH if you buy into
RB Fuller.....
TEL is the only product which "coats" the valves and stems with a
lubricating agent. I seriously doubt "RELEAD"...UNLESS IT CONTAINS
LEAD....really does what you are suggesting it does....LOOK AT THE
LABEL....TETRAETHYL LEAD should be mentioned......
Regards,
Robert Kirk
On Thu, 20 Jul 2000 17:14:04 EDT Rmoment@aol.com writes:
>
> I asked around a few years back about Relead and everything I heard
> suggested
> it was a good product and did the job of helping protect from
> excessive valve
> wear. I've used it for years, not in every tank, but maye 80% of my
> fill-ups.
>
> Int he Denver area, "regular" octane is 85, "mid-range" 87, and
> "premium" 91.
> I've noticed that when driving west from here, the octane seems to
> increase
> when I get to Utah, maybe by 2 points, and on the west coast it runs
> from 87
> to 93, the same 2-point increase. The difference has something to
> do with
> our altitude -- at 5000+ feet we don't need the same octane as at a
> few
> hundred feet or sea level.
>
> I've run 91 octane on both my 3000 (when I had it) and 87 on the 100
> and have
> RARELY experienced pinging. I typically set the timing aobut 3-5
> degrees
> further advanced than the book calls for (because of altitude we run
> in) and
> make fine adjustments using the micrometer ont he distributer should
> I hear
> pinging. Unfortunately, my hearing has gone down hill the past few
> years, so
> I might not have heard it every time.
>
> Another aspect to consider -- these restored cars will typically NOT
> be
> driven hard, as in racing conditions. With "consideration" to their
> age they
> will last longer than any of you (once your rebuilds are finished),
> so I'm
> not convinced it is worth worrying about the nth bit of perfection
> when it
> comes to octane or additives or even wheels and tires.
>
> Roger
From ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit at juno.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 21:09:07 -0400
Subject: Re: octane & additives
As a machinst of heads I AM SURE YOU RECOMMEND spending as much money as
possible at your shop.....MY POINT is gasoline companies are prevented
from serving up what was a common commodity when these cars were
built......
I stand by my previous missive re: TETRAETHYL LEAD
Regards
R KIrk
On Thu, 20 Jul 2000 17:32:01 -0500 Peter Brauen <pbrauen@telepak.net>
writes:
>
> Hi All,
> I always tell my customers to save their money when it comes to
> additives. That stuff can become quite costly, and you are much
> better off
> saving that money for a 'proper' unleaded cylinder head conversion.
> My
> theory is: If it were truly beneficial, the oil companies would be
> including
> it in the fuel and charging you for it. Some have expressed concern
> that
> today's fuels may contribute to premature failure of fuel system
> components,
> particularly rubber items. This may be the case, but it is doubtful
> another
> additive would appreciably lessen that effect. Again, save your
> money for
> the repairs, and buy the best replacements you can.
> On the subject of octane, you should use the lowest octane your
> car can
> handle without pinging. Typically, Hundreds will run on low octane
> fuel (not
> 100M), whereas six cylinder cars prefer at least mid grade. Of
> course, this
> varies based on compression ratio, state of tune, carbon deposits,
> timing,
> mixture, and a host of other factors, not the least of which is the
> honesty
> of your local station owner! Octane is a measure of resistance to
> detonation, so an increase in octane above the level necessary to
> prevent
> spontaneous combustion results in LESS power, not more. Service
> stations
> make the most money off super unleaded gas, people seem to think
> that they
> are buying something "better" and are willing to pay for it whether
> they
> need to or not. The fuel companies are certainly not going to
> discourage you
> from buying it. So put the money in your pocket, not theirs. Hope
> this adds
> to the confusion ;-) ---Peter (BMC Restorations)
>
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 20:32:29 -0500
Subject: Re: octane & additives
Hi Robert,
You will get no argument from me as to the benefits of TEL. The truth is
its lubricating, cushioning, and heat transfering benefits cannot be
underestimated. My point was directed solely at "lead substitutes" which
they are neither. In the absence of the real thing, spend your money on
making it work without it, not on attempts at avoiding the inevitable. But
if you can find some Leaded, use it, it is always beneficial. ---Peter (BMC
Restorations)
-----Original Message-----
From: ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit@juno.com>
To: pbrauen@telepak.net <pbrauen@telepak.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, July 20, 2000 8:11 PM
Subject: Re: octane & additives
As a machinst of heads I AM SURE YOU RECOMMEND spending as much money as
possible at your shop.....MY POINT is gasoline companies are prevented
from serving up what was a common commodity when these cars were
built......
I stand by my previous missive re: TETRAETHYL LEAD
Regards
R KIrk
On Thu, 20 Jul 2000 17:32:01 -0500 Peter Brauen <pbrauen@telepak.net>
writes:
>
> Hi All,
> I always tell my customers to save their money when it comes to
> additives. That stuff can become quite costly, and you are much
> better off
> saving that money for a 'proper' unleaded cylinder head conversion.
> My
> theory is: If it were truly beneficial, the oil companies would be
> including
> it in the fuel and charging you for it. Some have expressed concern
> that
> today's fuels may contribute to premature failure of fuel system
> components,
> particularly rubber items. This may be the case, but it is doubtful
> another
> additive would appreciably lessen that effect. Again, save your
> money for
> the repairs, and buy the best replacements you can.
> On the subject of octane, you should use the lowest octane your
> car can
> handle without pinging. Typically, Hundreds will run on low octane
> fuel (not
> 100M), whereas six cylinder cars prefer at least mid grade. Of
> course, this
> varies based on compression ratio, state of tune, carbon deposits,
> timing,
> mixture, and a host of other factors, not the least of which is the
> honesty
> of your local station owner! Octane is a measure of resistance to
> detonation, so an increase in octane above the level necessary to
> prevent
> spontaneous combustion results in LESS power, not more. Service
> stations
> make the most money off super unleaded gas, people seem to think
> that they
> are buying something "better" and are willing to pay for it whether
> they
> need to or not. The fuel companies are certainly not going to
> discourage you
> from buying it. So put the money in your pocket, not theirs. Hope
> this adds
> to the confusion ;-) ---Peter (BMC Restorations)
>
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 21:52:58 EDT
Subject: Re: TEL cost etc.
In a message dated 7/20/00 9:14:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
kirkbrit@juno.com writes:
<< 1 qt fixes 55 gallons at minimum ration cost is 15.50 plus about $4
shipping ups ground.
That sounds like about $.40/gallon over the cost of the gas! Is this
something that can be used intermittently? I have read some follks' feeling
that lead gets into the valves, guides and seats and lens protection even if
not continuously added to the fuel.
Michael Oritt, BN1 LeMans (runs 93 octane--ouch!)
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 22:35:02 -0400
Subject: Re: octane & additives
For a very interestin article on TEL go to
http://www.morrisminoroc.co.uk/articles/minormatters/The_Lead_Free_Question_Part_One.htm
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Peter Brauen wrote:
> Hi Robert,
> You will get no argument from me as to the benefits of TEL. The truth is
> its lubricating, cushioning, and heat transfering benefits cannot be
> underestimated. My point was directed solely at "lead substitutes" which
> they are neither. In the absence of the real thing, spend your money on
> making it work without it, not on attempts at avoiding the inevitable. But
> if you can find some Leaded, use it, it is always beneficial. ---Peter (BMC
> Restorations)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit@juno.com>
> To: pbrauen@telepak.net <pbrauen@telepak.net>
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, July 20, 2000 8:11 PM
> Subject: Re: octane & additives
>
> As a machinst of heads I AM SURE YOU RECOMMEND spending as much money as
> possible at your shop.....MY POINT is gasoline companies are prevented
> from serving up what was a common commodity when these cars were
> built......
> I stand by my previous missive re: TETRAETHYL LEAD
> Regards
> R KIrk
>
> On Thu, 20 Jul 2000 17:32:01 -0500 Peter Brauen <pbrauen@telepak.net>
> writes:
> >
> > Hi All,
> > I always tell my customers to save their money when it comes to
> > additives. That stuff can become quite costly, and you are much
> > better off
> > saving that money for a 'proper' unleaded cylinder head conversion.
> > My
> > theory is: If it were truly beneficial, the oil companies would be
> > including
> > it in the fuel and charging you for it. Some have expressed concern
> > that
> > today's fuels may contribute to premature failure of fuel system
> > components,
> > particularly rubber items. This may be the case, but it is doubtful
> > another
> > additive would appreciably lessen that effect. Again, save your
> > money for
> > the repairs, and buy the best replacements you can.
> > On the subject of octane, you should use the lowest octane your
> > car can
> > handle without pinging. Typically, Hundreds will run on low octane
> > fuel (not
> > 100M), whereas six cylinder cars prefer at least mid grade. Of
> > course, this
> > varies based on compression ratio, state of tune, carbon deposits,
> > timing,
> > mixture, and a host of other factors, not the least of which is the
> > honesty
> > of your local station owner! Octane is a measure of resistance to
> > detonation, so an increase in octane above the level necessary to
> > prevent
> > spontaneous combustion results in LESS power, not more. Service
> > stations
> > make the most money off super unleaded gas, people seem to think
> > that they
> > are buying something "better" and are willing to pay for it whether
> > they
> > need to or not. The fuel companies are certainly not going to
> > discourage you
> > from buying it. So put the money in your pocket, not theirs. Hope
> > this adds
> > to the confusion ;-) ---Peter (BMC Restorations)
> >
From "Andy King" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 17:06:48 -1000
Subject: Re: octane & additives
Well I'd say you've nailed it on the head!
Andy King
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Brauen" <pbrauen@telepak.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2000 12:32 PM
Subject: octane & additives
>
> Hi All,
> I always tell my customers to save their money when it comes to
> additives. That stuff can become quite costly, and you are much better off
> saving that money for a 'proper' unleaded cylinder head conversion. My
> theory is: If it were truly beneficial, the oil companies would be
including
> it in the fuel and charging you for it. Some have expressed concern that
> today's fuels may contribute to premature failure of fuel system
components,
> particularly rubber items. This may be the case, but it is doubtful
another
> additive would appreciably lessen that effect. Again, save your money for
> the repairs, and buy the best replacements you can.
> On the subject of octane, you should use the lowest octane your car
can
> handle without pinging. Typically, Hundreds will run on low octane fuel
(not
> 100M), whereas six cylinder cars prefer at least mid grade. Of course,
this
> varies based on compression ratio, state of tune, carbon deposits, timing,
> mixture, and a host of other factors, not the least of which is the
honesty
> of your local station owner! Octane is a measure of resistance to
> detonation, so an increase in octane above the level necessary to prevent
> spontaneous combustion results in LESS power, not more. Service stations
> make the most money off super unleaded gas, people seem to think that they
> are buying something "better" and are willing to pay for it whether they
> need to or not. The fuel companies are certainly not going to discourage
you
> from buying it. So put the money in your pocket, not theirs. Hope this
adds
> to the confusion ;-) ---Peter (BMC Restorations)
>
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 23:09:36 -0400
Subject: Re: octane & additives
>I stand by my previous missive re: TETRAETHYL LEAD
Like Mike asked earlier - What does this magic stuff cost?
Lee Mairs
62 BT7 Tri-carb
From ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit at juno.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 23:47:18 -0400
Subject: Re: octane & additives
Peter,
Sorry if I seemed to fire from the hip......Too many people are
frightened off when the "GOV't" folks step in like serving rats with 120
gallons of sacchrine in a day and LOW AND BEHOLD THEY DEVELOP A
PROBLEM........A N S W E R .........BAN SACCHRINE.....I personally would
like to ban the dump shi-s who conducted the study. Same with
TEL....benzene and the other "zenes" are every bit and perhaps more
hazordous than TEL could ever be imagined. I rest my case
Regards
R Kirk
On Thu, 20 Jul 2000 20:32:29 -0500 Peter Brauen <pbrauen@telepak.net>
writes:
>
> Hi Robert,
> You will get no argument from me as to the benefits of TEL. The
> truth is
> its lubricating, cushioning, and heat transfering benefits cannot be
> underestimated. My point was directed solely at "lead substitutes"
> which
> they are neither. In the absence of the real thing, spend your money
> on
> making it work without it, not on attempts at avoiding the
> inevitable. But
> if you can find some Leaded, use it, it is always beneficial.
> ---Peter (BMC
> Restorations)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit@juno.com>
> To: pbrauen@telepak.net <pbrauen@telepak.net>
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, July 20, 2000 8:11 PM
> Subject: Re: octane & additives
>
>
> As a machinst of heads I AM SURE YOU RECOMMEND spending as much
> money as
> possible at your shop.....MY POINT is gasoline companies are
> prevented
> from serving up what was a common commodity when these cars were
> built......
> I stand by my previous missive re: TETRAETHYL LEAD
> Regards
> R KIrk
>
> On Thu, 20 Jul 2000 17:32:01 -0500 Peter Brauen
> <pbrauen@telepak.net>
> writes:
> >
> > Hi All,
> > I always tell my customers to save their money when it
> comes to
> > additives. That stuff can become quite costly, and you are
> much
> > better off
> > saving that money for a 'proper' unleaded cylinder head
> conversion.
> > My
> > theory is: If it were truly beneficial, the oil companies
> would be
> > including
> > it in the fuel and charging you for it. Some have expressed
> concern
> > that
> > today's fuels may contribute to premature failure of fuel
> system
> > components,
> > particularly rubber items. This may be the case, but it is
> doubtful
> > another
> > additive would appreciably lessen that effect. Again, save
> your
> > money for
> > the repairs, and buy the best replacements you can.
> > On the subject of octane, you should use the lowest octane
> your
> > car can
> > handle without pinging. Typically, Hundreds will run on low
> octane
> > fuel (not
> > 100M), whereas six cylinder cars prefer at least mid grade. Of
> > course, this
> > varies based on compression ratio, state of tune, carbon
> deposits,
> > timing,
> > mixture, and a host of other factors, not the least of which
> is the
> > honesty
> > of your local station owner! Octane is a measure of resistance
> to
> > detonation, so an increase in octane above the level necessary
> to
> > prevent
> > spontaneous combustion results in LESS power, not more.
> Service
> > stations
> > make the most money off super unleaded gas, people seem to
> think
> > that they
> > are buying something "better" and are willing to pay for it
> whether
> > they
> > need to or not. The fuel companies are certainly not going to
> > discourage you
> > from buying it. So put the money in your pocket, not theirs.
> Hope
> > this adds
> > to the confusion ;-) ---Peter (BMC Restorations)
> >
>
From Ken Mason <medition at netscape.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 20 Jul 00 21:42:38 PDT
Subject: Re: [Re: octane & additives]
One thing about TEL that I have not seen yet is that it is a very toxic
material to handle. The possibility exists that in the end your Healey may be
running great long after you are! Check it out and be very careful.
Ken Mason
ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit@juno.com> wrote:
As a machinst of heads I AM SURE YOU RECOMMEND spending as much money as
possible at your shop.....MY POINT is gasoline companies are prevented
from serving up what was a common commodity when these cars were
built......
I stand by my previous missive re: TETRAETHYL LEAD
Regards
R KIrk
On Thu, 20 Jul 2000 17:32:01 -0500 Peter Brauen <pbrauen@telepak.net>
writes:
>
> Hi All,
> I always tell my customers to save their money when it comes to
> additives. That stuff can become quite costly, and you are much
> better off
> saving that money for a 'proper' unleaded cylinder head conversion.
> My
> theory is: If it were truly beneficial, the oil companies would be
> including
> it in the fuel and charging you for it. Some have expressed concern
> that
> today's fuels may contribute to premature failure of fuel system
> components,
> particularly rubber items. This may be the case, but it is doubtful
> another
> additive would appreciably lessen that effect. Again, save your
> money for
> the repairs, and buy the best replacements you can.
> On the subject of octane, you should use the lowest octane your
> car can
> handle without pinging. Typically, Hundreds will run on low octane
> fuel (not
> 100M), whereas six cylinder cars prefer at least mid grade. Of
> course, this
> varies based on compression ratio, state of tune, carbon deposits,
> timing,
> mixture, and a host of other factors, not the least of which is the
> honesty
> of your local station owner! Octane is a measure of resistance to
> detonation, so an increase in octane above the level necessary to
> prevent
> spontaneous combustion results in LESS power, not more. Service
> stations
> make the most money off super unleaded gas, people seem to think
> that they
> are buying something "better" and are willing to pay for it whether
> they
> need to or not. The fuel companies are certainly not going to
> discourage you
> from buying it. So put the money in your pocket, not theirs. Hope
> this adds
> to the confusion ;-) ---Peter (BMC Restorations)
>
____________________________________________________________________
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 01:04:22 EDT
Subject: Re: octane & relead
In a message dated 7/20/00 6:34:49 PM, kirkbrit@juno.com writes:
<< You are absolutely correct about the anticipaited wear of a resto4eed AH
but several folks here actually drive their cars to somehing other than
the VAUNTED COUCOURS SUBJECTIVE, HANDS LAYING EVENTS of which you refer >>
Don't get us started. Us vaunted concours types drive our cars more than
most Healey owners. John Hunt has put probably 10-15,000 on his, throughout
Europe and up and down the west coast, and he still manages to win contests.
I've got 20,000 on mine since I got gold with it (driving it up to Washington
from San Francisco to be judged and then driving back) and I still take my
share of trophies with it. Saturday, I leave for Washington state (750 miles
about) and then from there up to Vancouver, where I'll leave the car and then
we'll drive back to San Francisco after the Northwest Meet. It ain't the
most that anybody drives a Healey by a long shot, but don't confuse
trailering with concours.
Jaguar concours types may trailer their concours cars, but I don't know any
Healey concours winners who do.
Sheesh!
Cheers
Gary
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 22:12:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
Actually, I found it much easier than the static method. The adjusting
screws on my Dodge had hex heads so that you could adjust them with a
socket wrench. They were self locking somehow so that you did not
have to mess with the lock nut. I used the two blades, one the
specified thickness, the other +.002". If the first one fit and the second
one
did not, I knew I had the valve set correctly.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB
----- Original Message -----
From: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
To: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>; "austin healey list"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2000 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
> Peter,
> I forget now what manufacturer had them, but adjustable hydraulic lifters
> were set with the engine running, probably your Dodge. A wide blade
> screwdriver with tabs at either end of the blade helped keep the
screwdriver
> from slideing off the set screw. The process is pretty hard on the feeler
> guage too.......and actually the results were pretty poor, as the "feel"
for
> the clearance is marginal at best.
> Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> 59 AH :{) 54 BN1
>
> Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
> To: "austin healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 7:22 PM
> Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
>
>
> >
> > I once had a Dodge van where the manual actually specified that
> > you adjust the valves running. The adjusting bolts were self locking
> > somehow.
> >
> > Adjusting the valves was an interesting experience, particularly so,
> > if I had an audience.
> >
> > Peter Schauss
> > Long Island, NY
> > 1963 BJ7
> > 1980 MGB
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: frogeye <frogeye@gateway.net>
> > To: Colin O'Brien <cob@atg.com.au>; <dickb@cheerful.com>;
> > <CAWS52803@aol.com>; austin healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 5:26 PM
> > Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Hot valve adjustments are preformed with the engine running.....
really.
> > > Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> > > 59 AH :{) 54 BN1
> > >
> > > Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> > >
> http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Colin O'Brien" <cob@atg.com.au>
> > > To: <dickb@cheerful.com>; <CAWS52803@aol.com>; "austin healey list"
> > > <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 12:28 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Hi Dick,
> > > >
> > > > That's a question I have often pondered. If it's supposed to be done
> > "hot"
> > > > then surely the engine is cooling down as you progress through the
> job?
> > Am
> > > I
> > > > supposed to re-run the engine to warm it up again? This all sounds
> too
> > > > silly to be practical (who said anything with Healeys had to be
> > > practical!)
> > > > so what is the general rule and is there a better way with a cold
> > engine?
> > > >
> > > > Regards,
> > > >
> > > > Colin O'Brien
> > > > Sydney Oz
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > From: dickb@cheerful.com
> > > > > Reply-To: dickb@cheerful.com
> > > > > Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 14:03:25 -0400 (EDT)
> > > > > To: CAWS52803@aol.com, austin healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > > Subject: Re: Valve adjustment
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Rudy
> > > > >
> > > > > The answer is NO, but a better question is Hot or Cold and what
> > > tolerance and
> > > > > what is Hot enough, etc.
> > > > >
> > > > > DickB ;>)
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ---- you wrote:
> > > > >>
> > > > >> I'm in the process of re adjusting the valves on my 100/6, BN4
> after
> > an
> > > > >> engine rebuild. I have the clearances from the Technical Data in
> the
> > > > >> workshop manuals. My question is: Is there a sequence of
> adjusting?
> > > Does it
> > > > >> matter much? Thanks.
> > > > >> Rudy in NC
> > > > >>
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
From "Chris Nevard" <chris at nevard.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 08:06:24 +0100
Subject: *NEW* Austin Healey Webring!
http://www.british-cars.co.uk/ahwebring/
I have just set up "The Austin Healey Webring" to link together Austin
Healey car related websites.
If you have an Austin Healey website that you would like added to this
webring, you can do so for free.
As you can see it has only 4 members at the mo' so it needs some serious
input.
Interested? Just go here:
http://www.british-cars.co.uk/ahwebring/
Cheers!
Chris Nevard
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 19:58:03 +0800
Subject: Lead & more important things -Like carpets
Guys
Unleaded fuel is here to stay.
Anybody who has done a restoration or an engine rebuild since at least 1973
should have catered for lead free fuel or they were misguided or not all
there.
I own a Jensen Interceptor III that was built in 1973 which has a Chrysler
440 cid engine that was built for unleaded fuel.
My case rests.
My 1959 BT7 was initially built with a 9:1 compression engine and I
understand that all 3000 engines were similar in compression ratio. This
means that in an as new condition it should run on 92 to 93 octane fuel.
(RON). If your current fuel supply is less than that then use an octane
booster or detune it.
A good octane booster that is relatively cheap, in Australia anyway, is
toluene. Remember way back in the 1960's when the local service station sold
an additive called "Toluol". (or a fuel that was advertised as boosted by
toluol)?. Same thing.
Add up to 20% of toluene to your tank of fuel without any detrimental
effects to boost octane and run a head suited to lead free fuel.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in reassembly mode with a 9.3 compression ratio and hardened valve
guides and seats suitable for unleaded fuel.
PS Carpets? see separate message
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 20:03:33 +0800
Subject: Carpets
Hi all
Now that I'm off my soapbox I need some guidance from those of you who are
more experienced in other matters - such a Carpets.
Can anyone advise me of the quality of carpet kits supplied from USA
suppliers. On e-bay there are currently carpet kits for sale.
Are carpet kits from Moss and others true to originality and quality?
TIA
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in resto. Carpets now in the schedule.
From ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit at juno.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 09:24:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Lead & more important things -Like carpets
John,
Thanks for adding toluene, its another one of those "enes" along with
benzene and xylene which added to gasoline DO enhance octane they are
also lethal and carcinogenic.
R Kirk
On Fri, 21 Jul 2000 19:58:03 +0800 "John Rowe"
<jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au> writes:
>
> Guys
>
> Unleaded fuel is here to stay.
> Anybody who has done a restoration or an engine rebuild since at
> least 1973
> should have catered for lead free fuel or they were misguided or not
> all
> there.
> I own a Jensen Interceptor III that was built in 1973 which has a
> Chrysler
> 440 cid engine that was built for unleaded fuel.
>
> My case rests.
>
> My 1959 BT7 was initially built with a 9:1 compression engine and I
> understand that all 3000 engines were similar in compression ratio.
> This
> means that in an as new condition it should run on 92 to 93 octane
> fuel.
> (RON). If your current fuel supply is less than that then use an
> octane
> booster or detune it.
>
> A good octane booster that is relatively cheap, in Australia anyway,
> is
> toluene. Remember way back in the 1960's when the local service
> station sold
> an additive called "Toluol". (or a fuel that was advertised as
> boosted by
> toluol)?. Same thing.
>
> Add up to 20% of toluene to your tank of fuel without any
> detrimental
> effects to boost octane and run a head suited to lead free fuel.
>
> Regards
>
> John Rowe
> Perth
> Western Australia
> BT7 in reassembly mode with a 9.3 compression ratio and hardened
> valve
> guides and seats suitable for unleaded fuel.
>
> PS Carpets? see separate message
>
From Dick Davis <x856 at email.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 09:28:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: ISO Caliper rebuild help
HI,
Does anyone have a tip on replacing the outer caliper seal? It would seem
to take a 10 ten press to do it the way the manual says. The problem is
trying to get the outer ring of the outer
seal to seat.
Thanks,
Bob BT7
-----------------------------------------------
FREE! The World's Best Email Address @email.com
Reserve your name now at http://www.email.com
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 11:02:06 -0400
Subject: Slipping choke...
Nah. I'm not talking about disciplining my kid. The choke works fine in my
BT7 Tri-carb; however, the darn cable wont stay out. I've tried turning it.
but am now out of airspeed, altitude and ideas on what to do next
I'm too old to be agile enough to shift into neutral, hold the choke cable
out, brake, steer to a stop, and then get going again when the engine is
cold.
Any magic tricks or ideas for me?
Lee
62 BT7 tri-carb
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 11:06:26 -0400
Subject: Re: ISO Caliper rebuild help
Dick Davis wrote:
> HI,
>
> Does anyone have a tip on replacing the outer caliper seal? It would seem
> to take a 10 ten press to do it the way the manual says. The problem is
> trying to get the outer ring of the outer
> seal to seat.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob BT7
>
> -----------------------------------------------
> FREE! The World's Best Email Address @email.com
> Reserve your name now at http://www.email.com
Assuming that you have original Girling 14 calipers installing the caliper
seals the way the manual says should not present a problem IF all the caliper
groves are completely clean and you use plenty of BRAKE grease.
The pistons should be free enough to squeeze in with hand pressure ONLY. I
have found that the use of any device (Channel Locks bench vice etc) will
result in damage to the caliper seals.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 09:55:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Lead & more important things -Like carpets
Hi John,
No argument here, unleaded is here to stay. BTW octane is now calculated
by the (MON + RON) / 2 method, which is an average of the median octane of a
given sample (MON) and the maximum octane obtainable from a given sample
(RON). It used to be calculated by RON only which yields an artificially
high octane number. The recommendation that came with our cars was also
based on this method. So depending on the exact numbers of a given sample
using (R+M)/2, 89, or even 87, could be equivalent to the called for 93
(RON). So again, use the lowest octane your car will tolerate.---Peter (BMC
Restorations)
-----Original Message-----
From: John Rowe <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, July 21, 2000 7:16 AM
Subject: Lead & more important things -Like carpets
Guys
Unleaded fuel is here to stay.
Anybody who has done a restoration or an engine rebuild since at least
1973
should have catered for lead free fuel or they were misguided or not all
there.
I own a Jensen Interceptor III that was built in 1973 which has a
Chrysler
440 cid engine that was built for unleaded fuel.
My case rests.
My 1959 BT7 was initially built with a 9:1 compression engine and I
understand that all 3000 engines were similar in compression ratio. This
means that in an as new condition it should run on 92 to 93 octane fuel.
(RON). If your current fuel supply is less than that then use an octane
booster or detune it.
A good octane booster that is relatively cheap, in Australia anyway, is
toluene. Remember way back in the 1960's when the local service station
sold
an additive called "Toluol". (or a fuel that was advertised as boosted
by
toluol)?. Same thing.
Add up to 20% of toluene to your tank of fuel without any detrimental
effects to boost octane and run a head suited to lead free fuel.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in reassembly mode with a 9.3 compression ratio and hardened valve
guides and seats suitable for unleaded fuel.
PS Carpets? see separate message
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 10:10:29 -0500
Subject: Re: octane & additives
Hi Robert,
No offense taken. Be extremely careful handling TEL as it is readily
absorbed through the skin. It is particularly harmful to children. One thing
I'm sure we can agree on is that the hot air and unfunded mandates issuing
from Washington D.C. pose a far greater threat to our health and liberty
than ingredients in gasoline, paint, and food.
I'm no believer in lawsuits; but wouldn't it be fun to file a class
action suit against the government on behalf of all the people who purchased
cars and houses that use Freon in their air conditioners, that have now been
rendered obsolete? ;-) ---Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit@juno.com>
To: pbrauen@telepak.net <pbrauen@telepak.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, July 20, 2000 10:43 PM
Subject: Re: octane & additives
Peter,
Sorry if I seemed to fire from the hip......Too many people are
frightened off when the "GOV't" folks step in like serving rats with 120
gallons of sacchrine in a day and LOW AND BEHOLD THEY DEVELOP A
PROBLEM........A N S W E R .........BAN SACCHRINE.....I personally would
like to ban the dump shi-s who conducted the study. Same with
TEL....benzene and the other "zenes" are every bit and perhaps more
hazordous than TEL could ever be imagined. I rest my case
Regards
R Kirk
On Thu, 20 Jul 2000 20:32:29 -0500 Peter Brauen <pbrauen@telepak.net>
writes:
>
> Hi Robert,
> You will get no argument from me as to the benefits of TEL. The
> truth is
> its lubricating, cushioning, and heat transfering benefits cannot be
> underestimated. My point was directed solely at "lead substitutes"
> which
> they are neither. In the absence of the real thing, spend your money
> on
> making it work without it, not on attempts at avoiding the
> inevitable. But
> if you can find some Leaded, use it, it is always beneficial.
> ---Peter (BMC
> Restorations)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit@juno.com>
> To: pbrauen@telepak.net <pbrauen@telepak.net>
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, July 20, 2000 8:11 PM
> Subject: Re: octane & additives
>
>
> As a machinst of heads I AM SURE YOU RECOMMEND spending as much
> money as
> possible at your shop.....MY POINT is gasoline companies are
> prevented
> from serving up what was a common commodity when these cars were
> built......
> I stand by my previous missive re: TETRAETHYL LEAD
> Regards
> R KIrk
>
> On Thu, 20 Jul 2000 17:32:01 -0500 Peter Brauen
> <pbrauen@telepak.net>
> writes:
> >
> > Hi All,
> > I always tell my customers to save their money when it
> comes to
> > additives. That stuff can become quite costly, and you are
> much
> > better off
> > saving that money for a 'proper' unleaded cylinder head
> conversion.
> > My
> > theory is: If it were truly beneficial, the oil companies
> would be
> > including
> > it in the fuel and charging you for it. Some have expressed
> concern
> > that
> > today's fuels may contribute to premature failure of fuel
> system
> > components,
> > particularly rubber items. This may be the case, but it is
> doubtful
> > another
> > additive would appreciably lessen that effect. Again, save
> your
> > money for
> > the repairs, and buy the best replacements you can.
> > On the subject of octane, you should use the lowest octane
> your
> > car can
> > handle without pinging. Typically, Hundreds will run on low
> octane
> > fuel (not
> > 100M), whereas six cylinder cars prefer at least mid grade. Of
> > course, this
> > varies based on compression ratio, state of tune, carbon
> deposits,
> > timing,
> > mixture, and a host of other factors, not the least of which
> is the
> > honesty
> > of your local station owner! Octane is a measure of resistance
> to
> > detonation, so an increase in octane above the level necessary
> to
> > prevent
> > spontaneous combustion results in LESS power, not more.
> Service
> > stations
> > make the most money off super unleaded gas, people seem to
> think
> > that they
> > are buying something "better" and are willing to pay for it
> whether
> > they
> > need to or not. The fuel companies are certainly not going to
> > discourage you
> > from buying it. So put the money in your pocket, not theirs.
> Hope
> > this adds
> > to the confusion ;-) ---Peter (BMC Restorations)
> >
>
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 11:43:55 -0400
Subject: Re: octane & additives
I suspect you mean R-12 (Freon) for which R-134 is the substitute. What
amazes me is that R-12 was banned because it MIGHT affect the ozone layer
whereas R-134 is a PROVEN carcinogen! Sure glad them bureaucrats are
watching out for us...
> I'm no believer in lawsuits; but wouldn't it be fun to file a class
>action suit against the government on behalf of all the people who
purchased
>cars and houses that use Freon in their air conditioners, that have now
been
>rendered obsolete?
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 08:51:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Slipping choke...
The choke cable if original equip. should twist to lock. The cable in mine
is like yours and doesn't stay out. Until the time I finally decide to
change it I just use a small clevis style pin clip to add friction while
starting it up. I then remove it and put it on the parcel shelf till the
next time. Hokey but it works. You could also try moving the cable under the
dash to add a little more friction which may hold the cable out...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 21, 2000 8:02 AM
Subject: Slipping choke...
>
> Nah. I'm not talking about disciplining my kid. The choke works fine in
my
> BT7 Tri-carb; however, the darn cable wont stay out. I've tried turning
it.
> but am now out of airspeed, altitude and ideas on what to do next
> I'm too old to be agile enough to shift into neutral, hold the choke cable
> out, brake, steer to a stop, and then get going again when the engine is
> cold.
> Any magic tricks or ideas for me?
> Lee
> 62 BT7 tri-carb
>
>
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 11:59:26 EDT
Subject: Re: More "een's"
In a message dated 7/21/00 9:32:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kirkbrit@juno.com writes:
<< its another one of those "enes" >>
How about:
vaseline
cosmoline
trampoline
benzedrine
methadrine
vizine
(okay, someone else take over...)
Michael Oritt
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 12:13:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Re: More "een's"
That's just plain silly.
"eens", and "ines" are not even close to "ENES" like
benzene, Xylene(that nasty stuff from felt pens) or hexene
Or for those who listen to LA punk band "X" there is Exene.
Playing San Diego this sunday night. She shares the vocal chores with her
sometimes partner-husband-sire John Doe
In a message dated 7/21/00 9:00:50 AM, Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
<<
In a message dated 7/21/00 9:32:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kirkbrit@juno.com writes:
<< its another one of those "enes" >>
How about:
vaseline
cosmoline
trampoline
benzedrine
methadrine
vizine
(okay, someone else take over...)
Michael Oritt>>
From "John Bumpus" <jbumpus at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 09:26:51 -0700
Subject: Parts and Cruisin 2 Highway hits A&W
Does anyone know were I can get a hold of Door Hinge Pins and
Firewall Insulation Washers of a 3000.
Also plan on being at Ocean Shores A.H.R. on Monday July 24 does
anyone want Cruisin 2 Highway Hits cost $4.50 .U.S.
Jim B. I have yours . Bumpy
From Susan and John Roper <vscjohn at huntnet.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 11:17:40 -0500
Subject: Re: octane & additives
Hold on Robert. I know Peter. You could not be more wrong re his motives.
Why is it that the Healey list always resorts to personal attack when
someone expresses a differing opinion? John
ROBERT KIRK wrote:
> As a machinst of heads I AM SURE YOU RECOMMEND spending as much money as
> possible at your shop.....MY POINT is gasoline companies are prevented
> from serving up what was a common commodity when these cars were
> built......
> I stand by my previous missive re: TETRAETHYL LEAD
> Regards
> R KIrk
>
> On Thu, 20 Jul 2000 17:32:01 -0500 Peter Brauen <pbrauen@telepak.net>
> writes:
> >
> > Hi All,
> > I always tell my customers to save their money when it comes to
> > additives. That stuff can become quite costly, and you are much
> > better off
> > saving that money for a 'proper' unleaded cylinder head conversion.
> > My
> > theory is: If it were truly beneficial, the oil companies would be
> > including
> > it in the fuel and charging you for it. Some have expressed concern
> > that
> > today's fuels may contribute to premature failure of fuel system
> > components,
> > particularly rubber items. This may be the case, but it is doubtful
> > another
> > additive would appreciably lessen that effect. Again, save your
> > money for
> > the repairs, and buy the best replacements you can.
> > On the subject of octane, you should use the lowest octane your
> > car can
> > handle without pinging. Typically, Hundreds will run on low octane
> > fuel (not
> > 100M), whereas six cylinder cars prefer at least mid grade. Of
> > course, this
> > varies based on compression ratio, state of tune, carbon deposits,
> > timing,
> > mixture, and a host of other factors, not the least of which is the
> > honesty
> > of your local station owner! Octane is a measure of resistance to
> > detonation, so an increase in octane above the level necessary to
> > prevent
> > spontaneous combustion results in LESS power, not more. Service
> > stations
> > make the most money off super unleaded gas, people seem to think
> > that they
> > are buying something "better" and are willing to pay for it whether
> > they
> > need to or not. The fuel companies are certainly not going to
> > discourage you
> > from buying it. So put the money in your pocket, not theirs. Hope
> > this adds
> > to the confusion ;-) ---Peter (BMC Restorations)
> >
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 12:48:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Re: More "een's"
I knew an Eilene and an Ailene, but neither did much to increase my "octane"
or add lead to my....
-----Original Message-----
From: WilKo@aol.com <WilKo@aol.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, July 21, 2000 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: Re: More "een's"
>
> That's just plain silly.
>
>"eens", and "ines" are not even close to "ENES" like
>
>benzene, Xylene(that nasty stuff from felt pens) or hexene
>
>Or for those who listen to LA punk band "X" there is Exene.
>
>Playing San Diego this sunday night. She shares the vocal chores with her
>sometimes partner-husband-sire John Doe
>
>
>In a message dated 7/21/00 9:00:50 AM, Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>
><<
>In a message dated 7/21/00 9:32:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>kirkbrit@juno.com writes:
>
><< its another one of those "enes" >>
>
>How about:
>
>vaseline
>cosmoline
>trampoline
>benzedrine
>methadrine
>vizine
>
>(okay, someone else take over...)
>
>Michael Oritt>>
>
From "John J. Black" <transmancat at bbnow.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 11:49:31 -0700
Subject: Fuel, machinists and all that jazz!
Hi Guys
I do not want to get in the middle of all of this, but, why not strike a
compromise? I happen to agree with Peter that the best way is to solve the
problem with a permanent solution, ie fit new valve seats etc. This cures
the problem and not the just alleviate the symptom, as that's all the use of
TEL does.
Now the other point of view is, the use of TEL will cure the symptom and let
the car continue to run on these newer fuels with no damage, whilst the
owner builds up a cash reserve to have the valve seats changes at some
later date. WHATEVER anyone says, over a period of time the car WILL need a
valve job, so why not wait until then? In the, meantime use the TEL to keep
the car going.
Seems like a middle of the road answer to me!
Regards
John J Black
Waterloo Drivetrain Systems
http://www.waterloo-dtr.com
From "John J. Black" <transmancat at bbnow.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 12:12:31 -0700
Subject: RE: Re: More "een's"
Hi Guys
Maybe I can clarify this message as both ladies work at the Drag-u-ene (a
quaint little bar) on the wrong side of town! As for the lead in your.... I
believe they have an extraction process that works very well. But it could
cost you everything you have in a Texas divorce court! <grin>
Regards
John J Black
Waterloo Drivetrain Systems
http://www.waterloo-dtr.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Lee S. Mairs
Sent: Friday, July 21, 2000 9:48 AM
To: WilKo@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Re: More "een's"
I knew an Eilene and an Ailene, but neither did much to increase my "octane"
or add lead to my....
-----Original Message-----
From: WilKo@aol.com <WilKo@aol.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, July 21, 2000 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: Re: More "een's"
>
> That's just plain silly.
>
>"eens", and "ines" are not even close to "ENES" like
>
>benzene, Xylene(that nasty stuff from felt pens) or hexene
>
>Or for those who listen to LA punk band "X" there is Exene.
>
>Playing San Diego this sunday night. She shares the vocal chores with her
>sometimes partner-husband-sire John Doe
>
>
>In a message dated 7/21/00 9:00:50 AM, Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>
><<
>In a message dated 7/21/00 9:32:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>kirkbrit@juno.com writes:
>
><< its another one of those "enes" >>
>
>How about:
>
>vaseline
>cosmoline
>trampoline
>benzedrine
>methadrine
>vizine
>
>(okay, someone else take over...)
>
>Michael Oritt>>
>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 13:39:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel, machinists and all that jazz!
"John J. Black" wrote:
> Hi Guys
> I do not want to get in the middle of all of this, but, why not strike a
> compromise? I happen to agree with Peter that the best way is to solve the
> problem with a permanent solution, ie fit new valve seats etc. This cures
> the problem and not the just alleviate the symptom, as that's all the use of
> TEL does.
>
> Now the other point of view is, the use of TEL will cure the symptom and let
> the car continue to run on these newer fuels with no damage, whilst the
> owner builds up a cash reserve to have the valve seats changes at some
> later date. WHATEVER anyone says, over a period of time the car WILL need a
> valve job, so why not wait until then? In the, meantime use the TEL to keep
> the car going.
>
> Seems like a middle of the road answer to me!
>
> Regards
> John J Black
> Waterloo Drivetrain Systems
> http://www.waterloo-dtr.com
Like John, I really don't want to get into the middle of this, but....
We service about 140 different Austin Healeys, MGs and Triumphs most of which we
have been servicing and repairing for many years.
In the late 80s we used to do lots of valve jobs, particularly of MGAs & B and
Spitfires.
In the last 5 years we have done 4 valve jobs. Yes 4, I just checked the job
orders against head gasket sales.
In our experiance there has be a considerable decline in the numbers of burned
valves. This may be partially attributable to less miles being travelled by
these cars, but we have not had an equivalent decline in other work like brakes,
king pins, suspension, carb rebuilds etc which are also mileage related.
I like most people in our business looking forward to the greatly increased
revenues resulting from all the head jobs..... :-( didn't happen.
IMHO .....HORSE FEATHERS.....If it ain't broke. Don't fix it.
<Stage directions>
Writer retires to office, closes and bolts door puts on flak jacket and climbs
into desk drawer....
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 12:50:02 -0500
Subject: Hindsight
Hi All,
I was unloading a box of parts today (not Healey), when I came across
the classified page from the Dec. 31st, 1976 LA Times. Here is a small
sample of what was for sale:
Three Aston-Martins, including a SWB DB6 convertible for $13,000!
Four Healeys, with a '60 3000 for $1,200!
Eight Bentleys.
A handful of E-Types for $4,000.
Three Loti.
A boatload of MGs.
One Morgan.
A Morris pickup.
One '65 Sunbeam Tiger for $3,300!
And a bunch of TRs.
That's only the British stuff! Now, does anyone have a time machine I can
borrow?
I can dream, can't I?----Peter (BMC Restorations)
From ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit at juno.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 14:58:44 -0400
Subject: Re: More "een's"
I believe you are referring to "ines" not "enes"
On Fri, 21 Jul 2000 11:59:26 EDT Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
> In a message dated 7/21/00 9:32:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> kirkbrit@juno.com writes:
>
> << its another one of those "enes" >>
>
> How about:
>
> vaseline
> cosmoline
> trampoline
> benzedrine
> methadrine
> vizine
>
> (okay, someone else take over...)
>
> Michael Oritt
From ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit at juno.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 15:02:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Re: More "een's"
WilKo,
At least someone gets the drift! !
Thanks
R Kirk
On Fri, 21 Jul 2000 12:13:35 EDT WilKo@aol.com writes:
>
> That's just plain silly.
>
> "eens", and "ines" are not even close to "ENES" like
>
> benzene, Xylene(that nasty stuff from felt pens) or hexene
>
> Or for those who listen to LA punk band "X" there is Exene.
>
> Playing San Diego this sunday night. She shares the vocal chores
> with her
> sometimes partner-husband-sire John Doe
>
>
> In a message dated 7/21/00 9:00:50 AM, Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>
> <<
> In a message dated 7/21/00 9:32:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> kirkbrit@juno.com writes:
>
> << its another one of those "enes" >>
>
> How about:
>
> vaseline
> cosmoline
> trampoline
> benzedrine
> methadrine
> vizine
>
> (okay, someone else take over...)
>
> Michael Oritt>>
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 15:47:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Carpets
In a message dated 7/21/00 5:17:28 AM, jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au writes:
<< Can anyone advise me of the quality of carpet kits supplied from USA
suppliers. On e-bay there are currently carpet kits for sale.
Are carpet kits from Moss and others true to originality and quality? >>
I'll let others speak for quality of the regular vendors (my kits came from
Macgregor and Svilans in Canada and were pricey, were made to my order, and
took a long time to get, but were very well done and were made up in Wilton
wool).
As for originality, no body is making original spec carpets anymore, since
only one supplier is using the original material, which was a thin-pile
Karvel "hogs-hair" wool/poly blend and theirs are the wrong colors. Original
carpets also were distinguishable because their backing was made of woven
jute, very similar in appearance to burlap. Also, original carpets did not
have bound edges, except around the gear shift opening and hand brake opening.
If I were doing it all over, I'd still opt for a 100 percent wool carpet
rather than the blends that are available. You do want to stay away from the
really cheap kits -- they're almost always made up of 100 percent synthetic
and they scream cheap, Cheap, CHEAP.
You'll have to find someone else who's recently bought from Moss, Healey
Surgeons, British Car Specialists, or other sources. (I believe each of the
three I listed has their carpets cut and edged by their own suppliers.
From Kent Lacy <oxballs at netzero.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 17:14:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Carpets
Gary,
Be careful not to confuse people about the carpet. There is no binding on the
100 at the hand brake opening.
Kent:
> In a message dated 7/21/00 5:17:28 AM, jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au writes:
>
> << Can anyone advise me of the quality of carpet kits supplied from USA
> suppliers. On e-bay there are currently carpet kits for sale.
>
> Are carpet kits from Moss and others true to originality and quality? >>
>
> I'll let others speak for quality of the regular vendors (my kits came from
> Macgregor and Svilans in Canada and were pricey, were made to my order, and
> took a long time to get, but were very well done and were made up in Wilton
> wool).
>
> As for originality, no body is making original spec carpets anymore, since
> only one supplier is using the original material, which was a thin-pile
> Karvel "hogs-hair" wool/poly blend and theirs are the wrong colors. Original
> carpets also were distinguishable because their backing was made of woven
> jute, very similar in appearance to burlap. Also, original carpets did not
> have bound edges, except around the gear shift opening and hand brake opening.
>
> If I were doing it all over, I'd still opt for a 100 percent wool carpet
> rather than the blends that are available. You do want to stay away from the
> really cheap kits -- they're almost always made up of 100 percent synthetic
> and they scream cheap, Cheap, CHEAP.
>
> You'll have to find someone else who's recently bought from Moss, Healey
> Surgeons, British Car Specialists, or other sources. (I believe each of the
> three I listed has their carpets cut and edged by their own suppliers.
_____NetZero Free Internet Access and Email______
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 17:37:28 -0500
Subject: HEALEYS NATIONAL MEDIA ATTENTION
Harrison Ford is scheduled to be on the Late Show with dave letterman on mon pm
7-24
there is a possibility one of the topics of conversation will be ford's new
b'day gift reported several days ago on this list. there is a further
possibility, that dallas NTAHC club member's brg ah 3000 picture will be used
for discussion. the local car belongs to jay gillette.
tom taff's multi-award winning yellow bugeye will be in an upcoming Esquire mag
feature on british sportscars. tom is currently on the road for the
indianapolis conclave to go for the gold badge with his gorgeous healey blue
100m.
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 18:40:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Slipping choke...
Hi, Lee --
Until I figure out how to make the choke stay out by itself, I use a
clothespin to keep it out (actually, it takes two of them). Stowed under
the seat when not needed.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC
"It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool
than to speak, and remove all doubt" -- Mark Twain
-----Original Message-----
From: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, July 21, 2000 11:09 AM
Subject: Slipping choke...
>
>Nah. I'm not talking about disciplining my kid. The choke works fine in
my
>BT7 Tri-carb; however, the darn cable wont stay out. I've tried turning
it.
>but am now out of airspeed, altitude and ideas on what to do next
>I'm too old to be agile enough to shift into neutral, hold the choke cable
>out, brake, steer to a stop, and then get going again when the engine is
>cold.
>Any magic tricks or ideas for me?
>Lee
>62 BT7 tri-carb
>
>
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 18:23:00 -0400
Subject: Octanes and Ozone Layers
Does anyone know if it is true that one lightning strike produces tons of
ozone? If that IS true, wouldn't the ozone layer be constantly replenished
since it is estimated that lightning occurs somewhere on the face of the
earth 10 times per second??
Don
BN7
From Healybj8 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 19:42:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Octanes and Ozone Layers
In a message dated 07/21/2000 7:24:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dyarber@dynasty.net writes:
<< Does anyone know if it is true that one lightning strike produces tons of
ozone? If that IS true, wouldn't the ozone layer be constantly replenished
since it is estimated that lightning occurs somewhere on the face of the
earth 10 times per second?? >>
The answer to that is "yes...but..."
You see the Ozone layer is in the high atmosphere, but lightning occurrs in
the lower atmosphere. It takes a while for the stuff to get that high, and
by the time it does, the Ozone usually has broken down to its more stable O2
state. (Some studies show this to be up to 20 years) This is why we have
smog warnings in the summer time, but still have high UV days at the same
time. The ozone at the ground doesn't help the theorized depleation in the
upper atmosphere.
The break-down of hydrocarbons in the lower atmosphere is the biggest source
of ozone generation at ground level. As the UV light breaks these down, they
react with the oxygen in the atmosphere to form ozone among other things.
In the upper atmosphere, oxygen is broken down when it absorbs the UV light
coming from the sun. The free oxygen atoms then re combine to form oxygen
and Ozone. Ozone is a better absorber of UV, but is not the only thing up
there which absorbs this frequency of light. Oxygen does as well. When the
ozone absorbs UV light, it too breaks down to form oxygen and a free oxygen
atom. This free atom then mingles around until it bumps into another atom of
axygen to then form an oxugen molecule, or if it bumps into an oxygen atom,
it then forms ozone. (O3)
One of the fallicies about the ozone depleation theory is that people think
that if the ozone layer is depleated, all of the UV light will come through
and lay waste to the earth. Not true. There would be an increase in tha
ammount reaching the sruface of the earth, but life would not come to the
scorching end as some would think.
I think we should get some really big fans, and when we have those high ozone
days, crank them up and blow the stuff up to 20 miles high. Of course we
would need a 20 mile diameter fan blade, and it would make a horrendous
whooshing sound while operating, but those are details we can work out in
construction. It would also make buisness better for the hair club for men.
;o)
Well I hope that helps. Enough environmental science for now, I'm going to
go to the garage and tinker now. I'm just waiting for that ice age they said
was impending in the 70's. This global warming thing is all bunk, but that
ice age theory is for real!!! When it comes, all that putting off of sealing
those holes in the fire wall will pay off. :o)~
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From BGAHC at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 19:53:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Slipping choke...
Steve Byers wrote
> , I use a clothespin to keep it out (actually, it takes two of them).
Reminds me of an award we handed out at Springthing this year. Looking to
award a trophy for the most unique modification we came across a car with two
clothespins holding the choke. Not that unusual in itself but the owner had
taken the time to paint them the same color as the car. We thought that
deserved extra credit for a Concours attempt!
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 20:45:28 -0400
Subject: re carpets
you can get carpets made to original spec. by the company that has the
patent on them. BAS Heritage trim has the orig spec. and wilton wool. Any
combination can be had. The orig black, blue and red( I have seen blueish
cast blacks ) samples I compared were dead on matches. They do have many
samples of colors and have sample kits you can order for free.I can vouch
for the kits as I have installed their Healey and Jaguar carpets and
interior panel kits as well.
Also note they have orig. woven tan jute carpet backing for concours.
Highly recomended , the only carpets and interiors I will use.
Carroll Top Down Restorations
From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 17:29:28 -0400
Subject: Re:Lamps
Carlos, give me a shout off line. Thanks.
Doug
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp at juno.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 18:34:44 -0700
Subject: Re: octane & additives
Of course we all know that the real reason that Freon 12 was banned was
because the patent had expired and companies in third world countries
began to produce it and flood the market with lower priced Freon.
On Fri, 21 Jul 2000 11:43:55 -0400 "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
writes:
>
> I suspect you mean R-12 (Freon) for which R-134 is the substitute.
> What
> amazes me is that R-12 was banned because it MIGHT affect the ozone
> layer
> whereas R-134 is a PROVEN carcinogen! Sure glad them bureaucrats
> are
> watching out for us...
>
> > I'm no believer in lawsuits; but wouldn't it be fun to file a
> class
> >action suit against the government on behalf of all the people who
> purchased
> >cars and houses that use Freon in their air conditioners, that have
> now
> been
> >rendered obsolete?
>
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 16:41:05 -0600
Subject: Re: Slipping choke...
I'm having trouble getting the choke on my BJ8 to work well. I have to use
springs on the levers at the carbs and of course then the choke won't stay
out. If I don't use springs to fully return the choke shafts they don't
return. Springs of course are not part of the original setup I don't think.
What say the knowledgeable folks on the list? Any real cures or fixes?
Thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: <BGAHC@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 21, 2000 5:53 PM
Subject: Re: Slipping choke...
>
> Steve Byers wrote
> > , I use a clothespin to keep it out (actually, it takes two of them).
>
> Reminds me of an award we handed out at Springthing this year. Looking to
> award a trophy for the most unique modification we came across a car with
two
> clothespins holding the choke. Not that unusual in itself but the owner
had
> taken the time to paint them the same color as the car. We thought that
> deserved extra credit for a Concours attempt!
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> 1957 BN4 Rally Car
> 1966 BJ8
>
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 21:56:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Carpets
Mine are from Automat - www.autointeriors.net - and are just Fine. My BT7 has a
Blue interior and their color looks about right to me. They will make them up
in nylon pile,Dyna Pile, Nylon Loop --- about every other material I've ever
heard of, all the way up to Wilton Wool, with sewn/bound edges and also have
Armacord Trunk kits.
Their prices are reasonable. They have a very comprehensive catalog and will
send you samples so you can see what the goods look like before you buy.
Call them at 800-645-7258 and ask for Tim - say Hello from me
Dick Brill
---- you wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 7/21/00 5:17:28 AM, jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au writes:
>
> << Can anyone advise me of the quality of carpet kits supplied from USA
> suppliers. On e-bay there are currently carpet kits for sale.
>
> Are carpet kits from Moss and others true to originality and quality? >>
>
> I'll let others speak for quality of the regular vendors (my kits came from
> Macgregor and Svilans in Canada and were pricey, were made to my order, and
> took a long time to get, but were very well done and were made up in Wilton
> wool).
>
> As for originality, no body is making original spec carpets anymore, since
> only one supplier is using the original material, which was a thin-pile
> Karvel "hogs-hair" wool/poly blend and theirs are the wrong colors. Original
> carpets also were distinguishable because their backing was made of woven
> jute, very similar in appearance to burlap. Also, original carpets did not
> have bound edges, except around the gear shift opening and hand brake opening.
>
> If I were doing it all over, I'd still opt for a 100 percent wool carpet
> rather than the blends that are available. You do want to stay away from the
> really cheap kits -- they're almost always made up of 100 percent synthetic
> and they scream cheap, Cheap, CHEAP.
>
> You'll have to find someone else who's recently bought from Moss, Healey
> Surgeons, British Car Specialists, or other sources. (I believe each of the
> three I listed has their carpets cut and edged by their own suppliers.
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Alan at roverworks.com (Alan Simpson)
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 19:05:12 -0700
Subject: tri carb choke linkage
Can anyone on the list assist me in finding an original choke linkage for a
tri carb set up. It was missing when I purchased my car 10 years ago. I
have fabricated a look alike but would prefer the real thing. Cash waiting
in Swiss account...Alan
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 21:56:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Carpets
Mine are from Automat - www.autointeriors.net - and are just Fine. My BT7 has a
Blue interior and their color looks about right to me. They will make them up
in nylon pile,Dyna Pile, Nylon Loop --- about every other material I've ever
heard of, all the way up to Wilton Wool, with sewn/bound edges and also have
Armacord Trunk kits.
Their prices are reasonable. They have a very comprehensive catalog and will
send you samples so you can see what the goods look like before you buy.
Call them at 800-645-7258 and ask for Tim - say Hello from me
Dick Brill
---- you wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 7/21/00 5:17:28 AM, jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au writes:
>
> << Can anyone advise me of the quality of carpet kits supplied from USA
> suppliers. On e-bay there are currently carpet kits for sale.
>
> Are carpet kits from Moss and others true to originality and quality? >>
>
> I'll let others speak for quality of the regular vendors (my kits came from
> Macgregor and Svilans in Canada and were pricey, were made to my order, and
> took a long time to get, but were very well done and were made up in Wilton
> wool).
>
> As for originality, no body is making original spec carpets anymore, since
> only one supplier is using the original material, which was a thin-pile
> Karvel "hogs-hair" wool/poly blend and theirs are the wrong colors. Original
> carpets also were distinguishable because their backing was made of woven
> jute, very similar in appearance to burlap. Also, original carpets did not
> have bound edges, except around the gear shift opening and hand brake opening.
>
> If I were doing it all over, I'd still opt for a 100 percent wool carpet
> rather than the blends that are available. You do want to stay away from the
> really cheap kits -- they're almost always made up of 100 percent synthetic
> and they scream cheap, Cheap, CHEAP.
>
> You'll have to find someone else who's recently bought from Moss, Healey
> Surgeons, British Car Specialists, or other sources. (I believe each of the
> three I listed has their carpets cut and edged by their own suppliers.
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Barry Pate <jbpate at attglobal.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 23:16:11 -0400
Subject: King pin bushings
I just went through the agony of replacing my king pins without the
infamous "reamer tool" that is N/A in the catalogs. I am not impressed
by British engineering on the kingpin design. Not only is it a royal
pain to ream those new bushings out, getting the top one out is no easy
task. What's the trick, or is there another "special tool" just for
removing that bushing. We ended up burning it out as a last resort.
Somebody could make a little extra money just by renting one of those
reamers out for about $25 a shot. It would be well worth it based on my
experience. Barry Pate Chapel Hill, NC
--
GIF89aHH
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 00:37:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Octanes and Ozone Layers
>I think we should get some really big fans, and when we have those high
ozone
>days, crank them up and blow the stuff up to 20 miles high. Of course we
>would need a 20 mile diameter fan blade, ...
Should it be a six-bladed fan or will four work as well? What about
fiberglass instead of metal? Isn't there a club in Texas that sells ozone
fans?...
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 00:49:13 -0400
Subject: Dash board top removal???
I need to install one snap post for the new tunneau cover I bought from
Healey Surgeons. It is the one in the middle that holds the passenger side
up and tight while you are driving. Supposedly there is a captive nut in
the wood that comprises the top of the dashboard (horizontal part running
forward to the window). I was told that the rearview mirror screws and the
left and right tunneau snap posts were all that held the top down. This
doesn't seem right (especially since I now have them loose and there isn't
any more movement).
I want to poke a hole thru the dash padding with a needle running from the
captive nut up so that I get it right the first time.
Anybody got a suggestion or hint?
Lee Mairs
62 BT7 tri-carb
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersv.edu>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 01:22:42 -0400
Subject: RE: Fuel, machinists and all that jazz!
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter
IMHO .....HORSE FEATHERS.....If it ain't broke. Don't fix it.
<Stage directions>
Writer retires to office, closes and bolts door puts on flak jacket and
climbs
into desk drawer....
Mike,
I've talked to Bruce Phillips (.5 of Healey Surgeons) about this and my
memory of that is that he hasn't seen the need for other than enough octane
to eliminate pinging. It was several years ago and I don't want to put
words in his mouth, but I don't remember him getting all excited about it.
That makes two of you who should have seen a large problem if there is one.
Or maybe even a medium problem. Unless all of your customers are pouring
metallic "enes" in their gas.
This being said, I'll throw in an octane booster every now and then or even
a couple ounces of Marvel Mystery whatever it is. It's like buying an ice
cream cone for your kid. A little treat for the beast. Call me
irresponsible. I'll also throw caution to the winds and buy a lottery
ticket every now and then. Since I teach probability theory, this is
particularly tragic.
Bill Moyer, BJ7
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 01:37:17 EDT
Subject: Re: RE: Fuel, machinists and all that jazz!
In a message dated 7/21/00 10:28:05 PM, William.Moyer@millersv.edu wrote:
<<This being said, I'll throw in an octane booster every now and then or even
a couple ounces of Marvel Mystery whatever it is. It's like buying an ice
cream cone for your kid. A little treat for the beast. Call me
irresponsible. I'll also throw caution to the winds and buy a lottery
ticket every now and then. Since I teach probability theory, this is
particularly tragic.
Bill Moyer, BJ7
>>
I wouldn't say tragic at all. Probability says that sometimes it
works/sometimes it doesn't.
And about all the lead/no lead stuff, we (along with other lists, and the
press) have repeatedly come to the conclusion that changing the head can help
put off damage, and that even without changing the head, most folks would
never even notice a problem with the relatively small amounts of driving that
we do. The first sign of a problem is when you pull the head and find dirty
looking valve seats.
And those octane boosters aren't just a treat for the car. I give 'em to my
Healey now and then, and the thrill is also mine as I enjoy perkier
performance and no pinging.
I buy a lottery scratcher a couple times a year. have won a coulpe of bucks
here and there.
Rick
San diego
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 07:05:42 EDT
Subject: AMOCO White
Back in the 60's Amoco marketed their no-lead premium and we all stood in
line to get it with no complaint about valves, etc. As I recall it was even
used at some of the big races as the "official fuel".
What's changed?
Michael
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 07:09:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Octanes and Ozone Layers
>From deep in the heart of Texas, we heard a call for the famous TX KOOLER
>which your Healey will absolutely love and now featuring OZONE ENHANCEMENT.
>The more you drive your Healey, the better the environment and your
>disposition become. And that's a fact !!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Octanes and Ozone Layers
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 00:37:57 -0400
>I think we should get some really big fans, and when we have those high
ozone
>days, crank them up and blow the stuff up to 20 miles high. Of course we
>would need a 20 mile diameter fan blade, ...
Should it be a six-bladed fan or will four work as well? What about
fiberglass instead of metal? Isn't there a club in Texas that sells ozone
fans?...
From Kit Henry <khenry at hmcltd.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 08:49:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Hindsight
Peter:
I have a DeLorean, though I'm out of the fuel and have no high tension
lines close to the house to transport from. If some else can help I would
like the Sunbeam Tiger, and even maybe the Aston Convertible.
Kit Henry
www.henrymotorcar.com
Peter Brauen wrote:
> Hi All,
> I was unloading a box of parts today (not Healey), when I came across
> the classified page from the Dec. 31st, 1976 LA Times. Here is a small
> sample of what was for sale:
> Three Aston-Martins, including a SWB DB6 convertible for $13,000!
> Four Healeys, with a '60 3000 for $1,200!
> Eight Bentleys.
> A handful of E-Types for $4,000.
> Three Loti.
> A boatload of MGs.
> One Morgan.
> A Morris pickup.
> One '65 Sunbeam Tiger for $3,300!
> And a bunch of TRs.
> That's only the British stuff! Now, does anyone have a time machine I can
> borrow?
> I can dream, can't I?----Peter (BMC Restorations)
--
Kit Henry
Henry MotorSports Inc.
419-483-5064
http://www.henrymotorsports.com
E-Mail: khenry@hmcltd.net
From ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit at juno.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 09:11:56 -0400
Subject: Re: King pin bushings
I believe you are alluding to a two step reamer for King Pin
installation. Sometimes local club members have those items and are
willing to help others. Any better machine ship ought to have a variable
reamer to do that very job....if they can find time between valve job
updates;<)
R Kirk
On Fri, 21 Jul 2000 23:16:11 -0400 Barry Pate <jbpate@attglobal.net>
writes:
>
> I just went through the agony of replacing my king pins without the
> infamous "reamer tool" that is N/A in the catalogs. I am not
> impressed
> by British engineering on the kingpin design. Not only is it a
> royal
> pain to ream those new bushings out, getting the top one out is no
> easy
> task. What's the trick, or is there another "special tool" just for
> removing that bushing. We ended up burning it out as a last resort.
> Somebody could make a little extra money just by renting one of
> those
> reamers out for about $25 a shot. It would be well worth it based on
> my
> experience. Barry Pate Chapel Hill, NC
>
> --
> GIF89aHH
>
>
From ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit at juno.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 09:22:44 -0400
Subject: Re: AMOCO White
Refer to "enes" topic discussed previous.
As for race cars....they are hardly comparable in any way to anything
driven on the street....if for no other reason than they're engines get
completely torn down every 200, 500 or in one case in the south 600
miles.
R Kirk
On Sat, 22 Jul 2000 07:05:42 EDT Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
>
> Back in the 60's Amoco marketed their no-lead premium and we all
> stood in
> line to get it with no complaint about valves, etc. As I recall it
> was even
> used at some of the big races as the "official fuel".
>
> What's changed?
>
> Michael
From Healey3000MKII at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 10:34:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Hindsight
In a message dated 07/22/2000 7:00:45 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
khenry@hmcltd.net writes:
<< Peter:
I have a DeLorean, though I'm out of the fuel and have no high tension
lines close to the house to transport from. If some else can help I would
like the Sunbeam Tiger, and even maybe the Aston Convertible.
Kit Henry >>
I have a few full trash bags , but they will be picked up Monday morning in
the regular trash collection ...........or have you not upgraded yet to the
"Mr. Fusion" system?
"Road ?............. Where we're going ,we don't need roads"...............
I wanna go too,
Jim
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 10:42:31 -0400
Subject: BAS ltd address
Sorry for not getting that. it was late when I got home from the shop.
BAS ltd. USA
250 H Street, Unit 8110,
Blaine,Wa. 98231
1 800 661 5377
BAS JAG @ helix.net
Ask for samples (carpets and coverings supplied on card)
you can buy bulk in all They make orig grained dash covering kits
nonstretch, looks like orig.)
you can send your seats to them or recover your own.
There is a booklet avail with all prices and installation costs. They also
have many chrome screws not avail elsewhere
check them out well worth
Carroll
From Healybj8 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 11:04:09 EDT
Subject: Re: AMOCO White
In a message dated 07/22/2000 7:16:07 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
<< Back in the 60's Amoco marketed their no-lead premium and we all stood in
line to get it with no complaint about valves, etc. As I recall it was even
used at some of the big races as the "official fuel". >>
Ah yes, the Amoco water white standard for gasoline. I remember this.
What changed is the way they transport gasoline in the country. It now comes
out of the same pipe to a distribution center, which then sells to all the
gas stations in the area. The individual companies (Amoco, BP, texaco, etc.)
then add their special additives to the gas to make it "theirs".
Amoco, when they were refining their own gasoline had a water white standard
for color. They did not want to have any discoloration, so they refined
their gas a little more than the others. The probalem they found is that
when you take out all of those heavy molecules which cause color in the gas,
the octane dropps. After doing some research to boost the octane rating,
they found several ways to boost octane ratings through adding things other
than lead additives. This is how Amoco White was born.
The main advantage of Amoco's gasolines back then was that since they had
removed all of the heavier constituents which caused color in the gas, the
gas would not gunk-up your fuel system over time. Glaze and other such
deposits did not occur with their formulations, and this started the
detergent guys thinking. (But that is another story) I suppose this is why
it was used in racing. That and they probably paid someone a bunch of money
to become the "Official" fuel.
Now back then, no one was really concerned about running a car without lead
in the gas since the federal government wasn't mandating you get rid of it.
I guess that is why no one complained. Once the government tells you you can
do something, watch out!
Tim
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 23:11:42 +0800
Subject: Re: Lead & more important things -Like carpets
Fred
My Interceptor has an 11:1 compression ratio with a cast iron head (2) and
requires avgas. (Approx 114 octane on the RON scale although the RON scale
only goes to 100). Probably requires less than 114 but here it was either
super at 96 or avgas.
If I use 20% toluene I have no trouble. Apparently a mix of more than 20%
has less lubricating qualities ie is "drier" and tends to wear out the valve
guides.
Can't help you with exact numbers but try a variety of ratios until the
pinging stops.
At the moment I use unleaded at 95 octane RON and about 10% toluene.
Regards
JohnRowe
----- Original Message -----
From: Fred Hunter <fhunter@kcnet.com>
To: John Rowe <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>
Sent: Saturday, July 22, 2000 8:36 PM
Subject: Re: Lead & more important things -Like carpets
>
> > Add up to 20% of toluene to your tank of fuel without any detrimental
> > effects to boost octane and run a head suited to lead free fuel.
> >
>
> John:
>
> Interesting premise! How about some more info on this, like how much
> toluene per gallon to raise the octane rating, say, 5 RON points?
>
> Best regards,
>
> Fred Hunter
>
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 23:19:40 +0800
Subject: Re: Lead & more important things -Like carpets
Robert
Back in the 1980's in Australia, Xylene (usually as a solvent in some mix of
protective application ) was banned on construction sites under the guise of
Occupational Health and Safety we were told that it was carinogenic. After
further investigation it was published that Xylene itself was not the
problem but substances that were byproducts in the manufacture of Xylene and
apparently Xylene could not be produced without these byproducts.
Don't know if this is still true but the so called scientific testing of
these and other products leaves one a little sceptical.
Regards
John Rowe
----- Original Message -----
From: ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit@juno.com>
To: <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 21, 2000 9:24 PM
Subject: Re: Lead & more important things -Like carpets
>
> John,
> Thanks for adding toluene, its another one of those "enes" along with
> benzene and xylene which added to gasoline DO enhance octane they are
> also lethal and carcinogenic.
> R Kirk
>
> On Fri, 21 Jul 2000 19:58:03 +0800 "John Rowe"
> <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au> writes:
> >
> > Guys
> >
> > Unleaded fuel is here to stay.
> > Anybody who has done a restoration or an engine rebuild since at
> > least 1973
> > should have catered for lead free fuel or they were misguided or not
> > all
> > there.
> > I own a Jensen Interceptor III that was built in 1973 which has a
> > Chrysler
> > 440 cid engine that was built for unleaded fuel.
> >
> > My case rests.
> >
> > My 1959 BT7 was initially built with a 9:1 compression engine and I
> > understand that all 3000 engines were similar in compression ratio.
> > This
> > means that in an as new condition it should run on 92 to 93 octane
> > fuel.
> > (RON). If your current fuel supply is less than that then use an
> > octane
> > booster or detune it.
> >
> > A good octane booster that is relatively cheap, in Australia anyway,
> > is
> > toluene. Remember way back in the 1960's when the local service
> > station sold
> > an additive called "Toluol". (or a fuel that was advertised as
> > boosted by
> > toluol)?. Same thing.
> >
> > Add up to 20% of toluene to your tank of fuel without any
> > detrimental
> > effects to boost octane and run a head suited to lead free fuel.
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > John Rowe
> > Perth
> > Western Australia
> > BT7 in reassembly mode with a 9.3 compression ratio and hardened
> > valve
> > guides and seats suitable for unleaded fuel.
> >
> > PS Carpets? see separate message
> >
>
From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 11:36:30 EDT
Subject: Re: re carpets
In a message dated 07/21/2000 6:57:28 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
bjcap@frontiernet.net writes:
<<
you can get carpets made to original spec. by the company that has the
patent on them. BAS Heritage trim has the orig spec. and wilton wool. Any
combination can be had. The orig black, blue and red( I have seen blueish
cast blacks ) samples I compared were dead on matches. They do have many
samples of colors and have sample kits you can order for free.I can vouch
for the kits as I have installed their Healey and Jaguar carpets and
interior panel kits as well.
Also note they have orig. woven tan jute carpet backing for concours. >>
Maybe BAS Heritage is making better stuff now, but samples they sent me a few
years back when they were starting to "remake" karvel-like carpet were FAR
from correct. The stuff at that time was more like Wilton wool.
I also have had an impossible time contacting anyone up there. Always get a
message machine and rarely have calls returned.
The original capet had these qualities:
1) jute backing
2) the material was woven in very tight ribs. If you bend the carpet a full
90*, in one direction it will open up along the rib lines, while at right
angles to this direction it will not. The ribs ran in specific directions
on the cars too. They were NOT the same on all pieces for the BN1 and BN2,
and the later 6-cyl cars were more like the BN2. If you buy carpet that has
a rib pattern (and it will be fairly faint) it is important that you lay the
pieces out with the ribs running in the correct directions. Important so
that the carpet won't "open up" as it folds over sharp edges and also so that
you "get it right", should you either care now about correctness or decide to
care about such "trivia" at a later date.
Roger
PS NO ONE makes/sells exactly correct under-felt material!!!! This should
have a burlap-like weave (3/16" square pitch) on the top side, fairly visible
through the black coating. Also, it was not thick. Jute felt is available
today, but the "weave" strands on one type are made of white/clear polyester,
woven at a 1/4" pitch. This stuff also is abouat 50% too thick.
From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 11:36:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Carpets
In a message dated 07/21/2000 2:08:59 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<<
As for originality, nobody is making original spec carpets anymore, since
only one supplier is using the original material, which was a thin-pile
Karvel "hogs-hair" wool/poly blend and theirs are the wrong colors.
Original
carpets also were distinguishable because their backing was made of woven
jute, very similar in appearance to burlap. Also, original carpets did not
have bound edges, except around the gear shift opening and hand brake
opening. >>
I'd like to add one comment to Gary's remarks. Karvel carpet on Healeys
originally had a pile that was about 3/16 - 1/4" deep. Karvel carpet was
also made in a thinner pile, more like 1/8" or less. It is this latter
carpaet that the one supplier Gary mentioned is using. Thus, you have to
choose between correct "fibre" pile, but too thin and incorrect material
(e.g. wool) with the correct pile. And this assumes the "thin" Karvel is
available in the correct color. Before I located some NOS Karvel carpet for
my cars, I opted for the Wilton wool. It had the right look (the "thin"
Karvel looks more like a cloth than carpet, st least to me) though a plusher
feel.
Also, I suspect that even the "thin" Karvel will be limited in quantity and
colors available. As it gets used up, there will be no more.
Roger
PS -- finding NOS Karvel is getting VERY tough. IF you should locate some,
expect to pay through the nose and theln some for it!!
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 23:52:24 +0800
Subject: Re: Carpets
Roger
What was the original composition of the carpets?
Over here we can still get Wilton wool cut pile carpet at a price. Most
other types "glow in the daylight".
Regards
John Rowe
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 22, 2000 11:36 PM
Subject: Re: Carpets
> In a message dated 07/21/2000 2:08:59 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
> Editorgary@aol.com writes:
>
> <<
> As for originality, nobody is making original spec carpets anymore, since
> only one supplier is using the original material, which was a thin-pile
> Karvel "hogs-hair" wool/poly blend and theirs are the wrong colors.
> Original
> carpets also were distinguishable because their backing was made of woven
> jute, very similar in appearance to burlap. Also, original carpets did
not
> have bound edges, except around the gear shift opening and hand brake
> opening. >>
>
> I'd like to add one comment to Gary's remarks. Karvel carpet on Healeys
> originally had a pile that was about 3/16 - 1/4" deep. Karvel carpet was
> also made in a thinner pile, more like 1/8" or less. It is this latter
> carpaet that the one supplier Gary mentioned is using. Thus, you have to
> choose between correct "fibre" pile, but too thin and incorrect material
> (e.g. wool) with the correct pile. And this assumes the "thin" Karvel is
> available in the correct color. Before I located some NOS Karvel carpet
for
> my cars, I opted for the Wilton wool. It had the right look (the "thin"
> Karvel looks more like a cloth than carpet, st least to me) though a
plusher
> feel.
>
> Also, I suspect that even the "thin" Karvel will be limited in quantity
and
> colors available. As it gets used up, there will be no more.
>
> Roger
>
> PS -- finding NOS Karvel is getting VERY tough. IF you should locate
some,
> expect to pay through the nose and theln some for it!!
>
>
>
From Kent Lacy <oxballs at netzero.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 12:11:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Carpets
All this talk about carpet has reminded me that I have enough red
NOS Karvel to do two Healeys, however, I can't sell it because I
am too embarrassed to let anyone know how much I had to pay for
it. I would trade it for any other color if there's some out there.
Kent
Rmoment@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 07/21/2000 2:08:59 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
> Editorgary@aol.com writes:
>
> <<
> As for originality, nobody is making original spec carpets anymore, since
> only one supplier is using the original material, which was a thin-pile
> Karvel "hogs-hair" wool/poly blend and theirs are the wrong colors.
> Original
> carpets also were distinguishable because their backing was made of woven
> jute, very similar in appearance to burlap. Also, original carpets did not
> have bound edges, except around the gear shift opening and hand brake
> opening. >>
>
> I'd like to add one comment to Gary's remarks. Karvel carpet on Healeys
> originally had a pile that was about 3/16 - 1/4" deep. Karvel carpet was
> also made in a thinner pile, more like 1/8" or less. It is this latter
> carpaet that the one supplier Gary mentioned is using. Thus, you have to
> choose between correct "fibre" pile, but too thin and incorrect material
> (e.g. wool) with the correct pile. And this assumes the "thin" Karvel is
> available in the correct color. Before I located some NOS Karvel carpet for
> my cars, I opted for the Wilton wool. It had the right look (the "thin"
> Karvel looks more like a cloth than carpet, st least to me) though a plusher
> feel.
>
> Also, I suspect that even the "thin" Karvel will be limited in quantity and
> colors available. As it gets used up, there will be no more.
>
> Roger
>
> PS -- finding NOS Karvel is getting VERY tough. IF you should locate some,
> expect to pay through the nose and theln some for it!!
_____NetZero Free Internet Access and Email______
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at slip.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 09:21:55 -0700
Subject: Re: Slipping choke...
Ron,
I put stronger springs on the shaft with the "cam" at the bottom (don't have my
SU book so
don't know the proper name). These springs' job is to retun the choke levers,
but they're
too weak. This has improved the situation -- the choke stays out but the
levers will return
if I close the choke quickly (sometimes it takes a couple of tries). Not
ideal, but better. I'm
looking for (yet) stronger springs, they have to be stiff yet collapse enough
to let the choke
action
work. I believe they're 5/8" dia. and about 3/4" inch long uncompressed, but
have to compress
to less than 1/2".
Of course, all the moving parts on the choke mechanism must be clean and
burr-free.
Regards,
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny@y2consult.com>
To: <BGAHC@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 21, 2000 3:41 PM
Subject: Re: Slipping choke...
>
> I'm having trouble getting the choke on my BJ8 to work well. I have to use
> springs on the levers at the carbs and of course then the choke won't stay
> out. If I don't use springs to fully return the choke shafts they don't
> return. Springs of course are not part of the original setup I don't think.
> What say the knowledgeable folks on the list? Any real cures or fixes?
> Thanks
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <BGAHC@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, July 21, 2000 5:53 PM
> Subject: Re: Slipping choke...
>
>
> >
> > Steve Byers wrote
> > > , I use a clothespin to keep it out (actually, it takes two of them).
> >
> > Reminds me of an award we handed out at Springthing this year. Looking to
> > award a trophy for the most unique modification we came across a car with
> two
> > clothespins holding the choke. Not that unusual in itself but the owner
> had
> > taken the time to paint them the same color as the car. We thought that
> > deserved extra credit for a Concours attempt!
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jim Werner
> > Louisville, KY
> > 1957 BN4 Rally Car
> > 1966 BJ8
> >
>
>
From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 14:46:54 EDT
Subject: Re: King pin bushings
Hi, here is my "take" on the stepped king pin reamer. I don't like it for
hte following reasons:
1) kingpins are not all made with identical size journals. I've sent hem
differ by 0.0005" between the two, both top and bottom.
2) the stepped reamer is non-adjustable. As the edge of the blades wear,
the hole it reams will get smaller (just ever so slightly)
For both reasons 1 & 2 above, the fit either has to start off a bit large
with a new reamer (so it will fit king pins regardless of their manufactured
size and also still work as it wears) or will be a bit loose and not
necessarily equal on all 4 journals -- two top and two bottom.
It is for this reason that I have gone to using individual adjustable
reamers. I use sleeves to align them properly so the two bushings are indeed
coaxial. I can get a fit around 0.001" on each bushing. My reamer blades
can be adjusted to achieve a perfect fit even after they wear a bit. I get
them resharpened every few years by a neat place in NH, Treffethen, or
something like that.
Roger
From BGAHC at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 15:28:48 EDT
Subject: Need parts at Conclave!!!!
Rudy Streng is traveling to Conclave and left a message on my machine while I
was out.
He reports he stripped the splines off a hub on his 57 BN4 somewhere in Tenn.
Rudy planned on cleaning it up and trying the spare wheel since it looked
better.
Not sure if it is left or right, front or back but if anyone has extra hubs
that would work could you please bring them to Conclave so Rudy can make a
more permanent repair
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From Matt Armstrong <mattarm at microsoft.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 12:45:32 -0700
Subject: Test2 No need to read
From BGAHC at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 16:01:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Need parts at Conclave!!!!
Reached Rudy on his cell phone. He reports the spare wheel is working and he
found a line of Healeys headed towards Conclave.
Will need a right rear hub for a 57 BN4. I'm trying to find one in Louisville
now but if you have one you could bring to Conclave I'm sure he would
appreciate it.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From David Neale <dneale at pacbell.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 13:45:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Test
Test
DEN-BN7
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 16:50:23 EDT
Subject: Re: AMOCO White
In a message dated 7/22/00 11:04:09 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Healybj8 writes:
<< no one was really concerned about running a car without lead in the gas
since the federal government wasn't mandating you get rid of it. >>
Tim:
But what about the lack of lead--how come there was no uproar back then about
valves and related pieces not having the lubricity and cushioning that
everyone is now clammering for? Or was it just a simpler, more innocent age
when Harriet always wore an apron and Ozzie never had a job, and no one was
as smart as we all seem to be at present?
Michael
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 19:20:03 -0400
Subject: Re: AMOCO White
If Amoco White was used mainly in racing engines, they never had the engines
running long enough to worry about valve wear. Most race engines, if not
all, are torn down after every race. My friend Chris Oliver set up a small
Pontiac engine in his hydroplane, Every Penny, to do one thing - go
approximately 6 miles in quals for a world record. If I remember correctly
they used ATF transmission fluid instead of regular oil. The engine did its
thing, Every Penny set a new world record, and Chris threw the engine in
the trash.
Lee
62 BT7 Tri-carb
Frustrated after a day trying to fit the center tunneau cover Tevex *&(%^$!!
>But what about the lack of lead--how come there was no uproar back then
about
>valves and related pieces not having the lubricity and cushioning that
>everyone is now clammering for
From Healybj8 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 19:48:47 EDT
Subject: Re: AMOCO White
In a message dated 07/22/2000 4:50:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Awgertoo
writes:
<< Or was it just a simpler, more innocent age when Harriet always wore an
apron and Ozzie never had a job, and no one was as smart as we all seem to be
at present? >>
Well that probably was the big part. We didn't know that we needed lead
until we couldn't get it anymore. I guess the other part is that most people
probably didn't run Amoco white gas all the time, and if they did, the engine
didn't have problems until 80,000 miles down the road. Even then, they were
probably a very small group, and figured they just had a bad engine.
Tim
From "John Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 18:50:07 -0700
Subject: Re: AMOCO White
However, I can still clearly remember that gas stations sold "Hi-Test" which
also went under the name of "Ethyl" and "regular" which presumably had a
lower amount of Tetra Ethyl Lead in it or perhaps none at all as you will
see later in tis missive. I worked for a company in the 50's which collected
one-gallon samples of "Ethyl" or Hi-Test" gasoline at random from gas
stations and shipped it to the Ethyl Corporation who then tested it to
assure that the proper amount was being included in gasoline marketed by the
various refiners as having Tetra Ethyl Lead in it. We NEVER collected
samples of gasoline sold as "Regular"
The controversy grows.
John Sims, BN6
Las Vegas
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <Healybj8@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 22, 2000 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: AMOCO White
>
> In a message dated 7/22/00 11:04:09 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Healybj8
writes:
>
> << no one was really concerned about running a car without lead in the gas
> since the federal government wasn't mandating you get rid of it. >>
>
> Tim:
>
> But what about the lack of lead--how come there was no uproar back then
about
> valves and related pieces not having the lubricity and cushioning that
> everyone is now clammering for? Or was it just a simpler, more innocent
age
> when Harriet always wore an apron and Ozzie never had a job, and no one
was
> as smart as we all seem to be at present?
>
> Michael
From Healybj8 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 22:07:06 EDT
Subject: Re: AMOCO White
In a message dated 07/22/2000 9:53:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
J_L_Sims@email.msn.com writes:
<< We NEVER collected
samples of gasoline sold as "Regular" >>
You know, I forgot about the fact that there was a time before TEL when there
was no lead in gas. TEL came out in the 50's, and I don't think it was put
into regular until later once the patent ran out and it became cheaper to
sell. I guess it just made things better having it there, but isn't really
necessary.
I just know that I'm not losing sleep over it. My car has over 80K on it,
never been rebuilt, and doesn't get driven all that much. Much ado about
nothing in my opinion.
Tim
From Matt Armstrong <mattarm at microsoft.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 19:16:47 -0700
Subject: 61 3000 BT7 fs $600
No engine, interior or hood. Good Gages. Pix & addl info available on
request. Located in Midwest USA. $600 obo.
Thanks,
Matt
From GLOWNSDALE at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 22:29:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Need parts at Conclave!!!!
Jim and all,
We are in Knoxville and will be leaving for Conclave at 7 AM Sunday
morning. We have hubs and wheels for Rudy if he is still in the Tennessee
area. We even have a shop and tools for him to use. If anyone has heard
from him and know how to reach Rudy, please email me or call me at
865-458-0993. Thank you.
Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 00:24:37 EDT
Subject: Re: King pin bushings
In a message dated 7/22/00 6:16:52 AM, kirkbrit@juno.com writes:
<< Any better machine ship ought to have a variable
reamer to do that very job....if they can find time between valve job
updates;<)
R Kirk >>
Roger Moment told me that a variable reamer is really the way to go -- the
one size ones eventually get dull and stop cutting the right size holes.
Roger can tell you how it should be done.
Cheers
Gary
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 09:29:47 +0100
Subject: RE: Dash board top removal???
Presume that you are going to use the regular fixings at
the front of yr. tonneau? Same as the ones at the back?
Forget their name. (And I haven't bought THE BOOK yet
despite it's excelllent reviews in UK).
The male (car) portions on my BT7 came with nuts and washers.
But there were no fixings on my dash top. Yet in the PO's
box of spares and accumulated c**p were several of the male
portions with wood screws instead of the threaded bit. So:
Put the tonneau on tight.
Pull it up to correct position on dash, with zip done up.
Push a pin through tonneau into dash. That will mark where to put
the female section on the tonneau and show you where to put
the male bit into the dash.
I took a small (new) drill bit, put it in a chuck extension
and twiddled it, by hand, round and in far enough to get the
hole started.
The male portion will take a spanner. Once the thread begins to
bite, you can simply wind it in with a spanner or something from
yr 3\8s drive socket set.
Simon.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Lee S. Mairs
> Sent: 22 July 2000 05:49
> To: Healey
> Subject: Dash board top removal???
>
>
>
> I need to install one snap post for the new tunneau cover I bought from
> Healey Surgeons. It is the one in the middle that holds the
> passenger side
> up and tight while you are driving. Supposedly there is a captive nut in
> the wood that comprises the top of the dashboard (horizontal part running
> forward to the window). I was told that the rearview mirror
> screws and the
> left and right tunneau snap posts were all that held the top down. This
> doesn't seem right (especially since I now have them loose and there isn't
> any more movement).
> I want to poke a hole thru the dash padding with a needle running from the
> captive nut up so that I get it right the first time.
> Anybody got a suggestion or hint?
> Lee Mairs
> 62 BT7 tri-carb
>
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 06:02:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Dash board top removal???
Hi Simon -
According to Healey Surgeons there is an embedded nut in the top of the dash
that will accept a Tenax with a threaded base. Inam showed me the nut on
one of their dash top wood pieces that they have in stock. They sold me a
threaded base Tenax pin.
With my tunneau in place, I can't see how the cover end can stretch far
enough to get past the heavily padded aft edge of the dash top. I have to
make sure the car is in gear and the brake set before I can push and shove
the cover up to grab the port and starboard twist fittings!
I'm afraid my dash will look like Swiss cheese if I end up using the "hunt
and peck" method to locate the proper place to catch the captive nut. Now
if I could fit the car under my Doctor's x-ray machine...
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
-----Original Message-----
From: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk>
To: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>; Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, July 23, 2000 4:43 AM
Subject: RE: Dash board top removal???
>Presume that you are going to use the regular fixings at
>the front of yr. tonneau? Same as the ones at the back?
>Forget their name. (And I haven't bought THE BOOK yet
>despite it's excelllent reviews in UK).
>
>The male (car) portions on my BT7 came with nuts and washers.
>But there were no fixings on my dash top. Yet in the PO's
>box of spares and accumulated c**p were several of the male
>portions with wood screws instead of the threaded bit. So:
>Put the tonneau on tight.
>Pull it up to correct position on dash, with zip done up.
>Push a pin through tonneau into dash. That will mark where to put
>the female section on the tonneau and show you where to put
>the male bit into the dash.
>I took a small (new) drill bit, put it in a chuck extension
>and twiddled it, by hand, round and in far enough to get the
>hole started.
>The male portion will take a spanner. Once the thread begins to
>bite, you can simply wind it in with a spanner or something from
>yr 3\8s drive socket set.
>
> Simon.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
>> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Lee S. Mairs
>> Sent: 22 July 2000 05:49
>> To: Healey
>> Subject: Dash board top removal???
>>
>>
>>
>> I need to install one snap post for the new tunneau cover I bought from
>> Healey Surgeons. It is the one in the middle that holds the
>> passenger side
>> up and tight while you are driving. Supposedly there is a captive nut in
>> the wood that comprises the top of the dashboard (horizontal part running
>> forward to the window). I was told that the rearview mirror
>> screws and the
>> left and right tunneau snap posts were all that held the top down. This
>> doesn't seem right (especially since I now have them loose and there
isn't
>> any more movement).
>> I want to poke a hole thru the dash padding with a needle running from
the
>> captive nut up so that I get it right the first time.
>> Anybody got a suggestion or hint?
>> Lee Mairs
>> 62 BT7 tri-carb
>>
>
From BGAHC at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 07:36:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Need parts at Conclave!!!!
Gary,
Rudy reports he swapped wheels and made it in to Louisville last night. I
have one hub located (pretty well worn though) and will have it as a backup
for the Wander Indiana Tour today in case he needs it.
Anyone know the whereabouts of Marion Brantly? We expected him in Louisville
last night, no show as of 9 PM.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Looking forward to Conclave!!!!!!!! (It will be in the former Conclave best
of show winner Rally Car that now has enough scars to qualify for diamond in
the rough!)
GLOWNSDALE@aol.com writes:
> We are in Knoxville and will be leaving for Conclave at 7 AM Sunday
> morning. We have hubs and wheels for Rudy if he is still in the Tennessee
> area. We even have a shop and tools for him to use. If anyone has heard
> from him and know how to reach Rudy, please email me or call me at
> 865-458-0993. Thank you.
> Gary
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 07:46:36 -0400
Subject: Dashboard Top Removal
Having just refinished my dashboard I have only one piece of advise. When
you drill down from the top through the dashboard cover (naugahyde) be
careful that the drill bit doesn't twist the padding around itself. It will
form a hard little raised spot that is difficult if not impossible to
remove.
Don
BN7
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 07:46:36 -0400
Subject: Dashboard Top Removal
Having just refinished my dashboard I have only one piece of advise. When
you drill down from the top through the dashboard cover (naugahyde) be
careful that the drill bit doesn't twist the padding around itself. It will
form a hard little raised spot that is difficult if not impossible to
remove.
Don
BN7
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 09:08:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Dashboard Top Removal
In a message dated 7/23/2000 07:45:43 Central Daylight Time,
dyarber@dynasty.net writes:
<< When
you drill down from the top through the dashboard cover (naugahyde) be
careful that the drill bit doesn't twist the padding around itself. >>
If you can get a short piece of thin wall tubing you can make a core drill.
Sharpen the outside diameter of the tubing on a bench grinder. Locate the
place you want the hole and turn the tubing by hand or in a hand drill to cut
through the cover and padding. A little lubrication on the tubing will also
keep it from grabbing and twisting the material
Don
NTAHC
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 09:40:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Dashboard Top Removal
The following is all well and good; however, how do I know where to drill
the hole so as to be able to either catch the captive screw (assuming it is
there) or be far enough up the dash top so that the nut on the bottom of the
Tenax stud is both not visible yet can be tightened.
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
><< When you drill down from the top through the dashboard cover
(naugahyde) be careful that the drill bit doesn't twist the padding around
itself. >>
>If you can get a short piece of thin wall tubing you can make a core drill.
>Sharpen the outside diameter of the tubing on a bench grinder. Locate the
>place you want the hole and turn the tubing by hand or in a hand drill to
cut
>through the cover and padding. A little lubrication on the tubing will also
>keep it from grabbing and twisting the material
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 08:49:45 -0600
Subject: Re: octane & additives
Peter,
I will admit to starting this discussion by saying that I recommend to my
customers the use of additives to "restore the lost chemical properties" in
this stuff we all have to buy nowadays. My specific complaints are not so
much with the "enes" or the lack of TEL , but rather with the addition of
the "hols" which cause or at least exacerbate the tendency for an engine
diesel, miss, and/or stumble. Chemically speaking I can't say for sure what
the additives do other than the fact that they frequently solve problems
that can not be rectified by any amount of mechanical manipulation.
I will now join Mr. Salter under the desk, but am enjoying the education in
the chemical properties discussion none-the-less.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Brauen" <pbrauen@telepak.net>
To: "ROBERT KIRK" <kirkbrit@juno.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 21, 2000 9:10 AM
Subject: Re: octane & additives
>
> Hi Robert,
> No offense taken. Be extremely careful handling TEL as it is readily
> absorbed through the skin. It is particularly harmful to children. One
thing
> I'm sure we can agree on is that the hot air and unfunded mandates issuing
> from Washington D.C. pose a far greater threat to our health and liberty
> than ingredients in gasoline, paint, and food.
> I'm no believer in lawsuits; but wouldn't it be fun to file a class
> action suit against the government on behalf of all the people who
purchased
> cars and houses that use Freon in their air conditioners, that have now
been
> rendered obsolete? ;-) ---Peter
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit@juno.com>
> To: pbrauen@telepak.net <pbrauen@telepak.net>
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, July 20, 2000 10:43 PM
> Subject: Re: octane & additives
>
>
> Peter,
> Sorry if I seemed to fire from the hip......Too many people are
> frightened off when the "GOV't" folks step in like serving rats with
120
> gallons of sacchrine in a day and LOW AND BEHOLD THEY DEVELOP A
> PROBLEM........A N S W E R .........BAN SACCHRINE.....I personally
would
> like to ban the dump shi-s who conducted the study. Same with
> TEL....benzene and the other "zenes" are every bit and perhaps more
> hazordous than TEL could ever be imagined. I rest my case
> Regards
> R Kirk
>
> On Thu, 20 Jul 2000 20:32:29 -0500 Peter Brauen <pbrauen@telepak.net>
> writes:
> >
> > Hi Robert,
> > You will get no argument from me as to the benefits of TEL. The
> > truth is
> > its lubricating, cushioning, and heat transfering benefits cannot be
> > underestimated. My point was directed solely at "lead substitutes"
> > which
> > they are neither. In the absence of the real thing, spend your money
> > on
> > making it work without it, not on attempts at avoiding the
> > inevitable. But
> > if you can find some Leaded, use it, it is always beneficial.
> > ---Peter (BMC
> > Restorations)
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit@juno.com>
> > To: pbrauen@telepak.net <pbrauen@telepak.net>
> > Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Date: Thursday, July 20, 2000 8:11 PM
> > Subject: Re: octane & additives
> >
> >
> > As a machinst of heads I AM SURE YOU RECOMMEND spending as much
> > money as
> > possible at your shop.....MY POINT is gasoline companies are
> > prevented
> > from serving up what was a common commodity when these cars were
> > built......
> > I stand by my previous missive re: TETRAETHYL LEAD
> > Regards
> > R KIrk
> >
> > On Thu, 20 Jul 2000 17:32:01 -0500 Peter Brauen
> > <pbrauen@telepak.net>
> > writes:
> > >
> > > Hi All,
> > > I always tell my customers to save their money when it
> > comes to
> > > additives. That stuff can become quite costly, and you are
> > much
> > > better off
> > > saving that money for a 'proper' unleaded cylinder head
> > conversion.
> > > My
> > > theory is: If it were truly beneficial, the oil companies
> > would be
> > > including
> > > it in the fuel and charging you for it. Some have expressed
> > concern
> > > that
> > > today's fuels may contribute to premature failure of fuel
> > system
> > > components,
> > > particularly rubber items. This may be the case, but it is
> > doubtful
> > > another
> > > additive would appreciably lessen that effect. Again, save
> > your
> > > money for
> > > the repairs, and buy the best replacements you can.
> > > On the subject of octane, you should use the lowest octane
> > your
> > > car can
> > > handle without pinging. Typically, Hundreds will run on low
> > octane
> > > fuel (not
> > > 100M), whereas six cylinder cars prefer at least mid grade. Of
> > > course, this
> > > varies based on compression ratio, state of tune, carbon
> > deposits,
> > > timing,
> > > mixture, and a host of other factors, not the least of which
> > is the
> > > honesty
> > > of your local station owner! Octane is a measure of resistance
> > to
> > > detonation, so an increase in octane above the level necessary
> > to
> > > prevent
> > > spontaneous combustion results in LESS power, not more.
> > Service
> > > stations
> > > make the most money off super unleaded gas, people seem to
> > think
> > > that they
> > > are buying something "better" and are willing to pay for it
> > whether
> > > they
> > > need to or not. The fuel companies are certainly not going to
> > > discourage you
> > > from buying it. So put the money in your pocket, not theirs.
> > Hope
> > > this adds
> > > to the confusion ;-) ---Peter (BMC Restorations)
> > >
> >
>
>
From ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit at juno.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 11:00:18 -0400
Subject: Re: King pin bushings
Gary,
Thanks you for your first qualified positive response to my missives! I
was beginning to think we had a personality conflict. I only hope Lacy
will reconsider which list your name is on.
R Kirk
On Sun, 23 Jul 2000 00:24:37 EDT Editorgary@aol.com writes:
>
>
> In a message dated 7/22/00 6:16:52 AM, kirkbrit@juno.com writes:
>
> << Any better machine ship ought to have a variable
> reamer to do that very job....if they can find time between valve
> job
> updates;<)
> R Kirk >>
>
> Roger Moment told me that a variable reamer is really the way to go
> -- the
> one size ones eventually get dull and stop cutting the right size
> holes.
> Roger can tell you how it should be done.
> Cheers
> Gary
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 12:14:52 -0500
Subject: Computer Down
My computer has been on the "fritz" again and I had to reformat my hard
drive. I apologize to the person whom I had promised to send a brake
cylinder, but I lost the address. The person was in New Jersey, I believe
in Lakeview. Will that person please send me your address and I'll send you
the brake cylinder.
Don
BN7
From Healybj8 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 14:50:19 EDT
Subject: Trafficator Adjustments
OK, my turn signals have gone out again, and I'm trying to chase down the
problem. It seems that when I hard wire the circuit, by-passing the flasher
unit, I don't always get the turn signal lights to light. Its only if I push
down on the trafficator lever that they then light.
Is there some way to adjust the contacts in the trafficator? I figured I'd
ask before I pull the thing out. I'm pretty sure its not the wiring harness
in the stator tube as I have replaced that recently, so its the trafficator
switch in the steering wheel that seems to be where the problem rests.
TIA
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 15:01:51 EDT
Subject: King pin reamers the end.
If you are trying to save a buck, then getting your own reamer for doing your
king pins isn't going to save you money.
The reamers to make a step reamer cost about $85. Then you have to machine
and assemble them.
Adjustable reamers will cost you even more.
So if youu are going to do your king pins, say once in 25 years, I would send
them to one of the many good shops that do this work. They will be correct
and you will be money ahead. Take all that money you saved and buy some gas
and drive the wheels off your Healey. It is kinda fun!!!
Don
NTAHC
From "Greg Monfort" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 15:33:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel, machinists and all that jazz!
Correct. The object is to maintain the lowest
combustion temperature without knocking. Lead
increases the octane rating, requiring a higher
temperature to ignite the fuel. If the CR isn't high
enough or the spark hot enough, incomplete combustion
occurs, leaving deposits that will eventually
increase the CR, which means hotter temperatures,
etc.. An insidious cycle that eventually burns the
top end out, etc.
MMO will help burn off deposits in the cylinders, but
will tend to leave some also. ATF burns cleaner and
still kills any mosquitoes near by. :^))
It also helps you to find leaks in the fuel path.
GM
----- Original Message -----
>
> I've talked to Bruce Phillips (.5 of Healey
Surgeons) about this and my
> memory of that is that he hasn't seen the need for
other than enough octane
> to eliminate pinging.
>
> This being said, I'll throw in an octane booster
every now and then or even
> a couple ounces of Marvel Mystery whatever it is.
>
> Bill Moyer, BJ7
From "Greg Monfort" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 15:26:51 -0400
Subject: Just to add 'octane' to this thread
I would NOT suggest that a person use the following
fuel mixtures without
considering the detrimental effects on your engine
and other potential
damage. That said, the information is interesting.
Original published in:
GS-Xtra
1213 Gornto Road
Valdosta, GA 31602
(912) 244-0577
Editor: Richard Lasetter, president Gran Sport Club
of America (GSCA)
GM
==============
Formula #1 - Toulene
R+M/2.........114
Cost...........$2.50/gal
Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium
10%...........94.2 Octane
20%...........96.4 Octane
30%...........98.6 Octane
Notes: Common ingredient in Octane Boosters in a can.
12-16 ounces will only
raise octane 2-3 *points*, i.e. from 92 to 92.3.
Often costs $3-5 for 12-16
ounces, when it can be purchased for less than $3/gal
at chemical supply
houses or paint stores.
Formula #2 - Xylene
R+M/2.........117
Cost...........$2.75/gal
Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium
10%...........94.5 Octane
20%...........97.0 Octane
30%...........99.5 Octane
Notes: Similar to Toulene. 12-16 ounces will only
raise octane 2-3 *points*,
i.e. from 92 to 92.3. Usually mixed with Toulene and
advertised as *race
formula*.
Formula #3 - Methyl-tertiary-butyl-ether (MTBE)
R+M/2.........118
Cost...........$3.50/gal
Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium
10%...........94.6 Octane
20%...........97.2 Octane
30%...........99.8 Octane
Notes: Oxygenate. Very common in octane booster
products. Has lower BTU
content than toulene or xylene, but oxygenate effect
makes the gasoline burn
better and produce more energy.
Formula #4 - Methanol or Ethanol
R+M/2.........101
Cost...........$0.60 - $1.75/gal
Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium
10%...........94.3 Octane (Methanol)
10%...........94.7 Octane (Ethanol)
20%...........Not Recommended
Notes: Methanol is wood alcohol. Ethanol is grain
alcohol and found in
Gasohol in 10% ratios. Both alcohols are mildly
corrosive and will eat gas
tank linings, rubber and aluminum if used in
excessive ratios. Main
ingredient in "Gas Dryers", combine with water.
Formula #5 - Isopropyl Alcohol and Tertiary Butyl
Alcohol
R+M/2.........101
Cost...........$0.60-$1.50/gal
Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium
10%...........94.5 Octane
20%...........Not Recommended
30%...........Not Recommended
Notes: Similar to Methanol/Ethanol. Isopropyl Alcohol
is simply rubbing
alcohol.
Sample Mixture
To make your own octane booster, it is easiest to
make up a large batch, and
then bottle it up in "dosage-size" uses.
Below is the basic formula of one of the popular
octane booster products. To
make eight 16 ounce bottles (128 oz = 1 gal):
100 oz of toulene for octane boost
25 oz of mineral spirits (cleaning agent)
3 oz of transmission fluid (lubricating agent)
This product is advertised as "octane booster with
cleaning agent *and*
lubricating agent!". Diesel fuel or kerosene can be
substituted for mineral
spirits and light turbine oil can be substituted for
transmission fluid.
Color can be added with petroleum dyes.
From "DHT" <dht at erols.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 17:34:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Wiring Harness
I'm installing a new harness and need to know the routing of the harness
across the front of the car to the blower.
Dean
----- Original Message -----
From: <Csooch1@aol.com>
To: <fawcett1@mediaone.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2000 8:46 PM
Subject: Re: Wiring Harness
>
> Mark,
> I just finished installing one from Justbrits and it was exactly as
original
> and very good quality. All the wires ended exactly where they should
have.
> All the colors match the factory wiring diagram and my old harness. I am
not
> sure which manufacturer made it, but I think it was British Wiring.
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
> XJ6
>
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 20:31:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Dash board top removal???
Hi John -
Thanks for your reply. Here is what happened.
When I looked from below at the underside of the dash top, I found that the
metal strip (is this what you called inner cowl?) covers the top wood.
there is no sign of the captive nut; however, it could very well be on the
other side of the metal strip/inner cowl and I would never know.
Your measurements correspond to what my tonneau cover indicates is the place
where the tenax stud should go, but how to be sure?
It looks like I'm going to have to take the dash top entirely out (which I
think means removing the wind screen as there is a screw in each corner of
the dash top that is about 1/2" from the slanting glass of the windscreen).
I might could get lucky with my puncture of the dash leather, and I might
also be lucky enough to have the captive screw right where it is supposed to
be. Of course its more likely that I would win the lottery! I guess I'm
going to have to do without unless I can find a shop willing to take the
risk.
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
(with a droopy tonneau)
-----Original Message-----
From: John Snyder <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sunday, July 23, 2000 10:05 AM
Subject: Re: Dash board top removal???
>Hi Lee!
>
>OK, here we go. The hole for the snap post is exactly 2" to the right of
>the right side screw for the rear view mirror, but further to the rear than
>the mirror screws. The hole is JUST forward of the turned-down lip on the
>inner cowl (the metal that the padded dash mounts on top of)...like 1/16"
>between the rear edge of the hole and the front face of the lip. I checked
>both my BN7 MK 2 and BT7 MK 1. If you put your head under the dash, and
>look up, you should be able to see this hole (between the face of the
>instrument panel and the lip).
>
>MUCH to my surprise, there is no captive nut. (so much for my memory) On
>the BT7, the post is just screwed into the metal of the inner cowl and has
>been holding the tonneau fine for years (and I almost always run w/ the
>passenger side covered). The BN7 MK 2 also has no captive nut. It looks
>like there is just enough room to run a nut up on the post threads if you
>wanted to.
>
>I just finished this chassis restoration last week, and the body/interior
>have not been installed yet. Am taking the naked chassis to the West Coast
>Meet so folks can see what is under the body of a big Healey.
>
>Good luck
>
>John
>
>----------
>> From: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
>> To: John Snyder <johnahsn@olypen.com>
>> Subject: Re: Dash board top removal???
>> Date: Sunday, July 23, 2000 2:35 AM
>>
>> John -
>> I'm much appreciative. Thanks also for waiting a day. Now I can spend
>the
>> morning watching the British Open!
>> Lee
>> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: John Snyder <johnahsn@olypen.com>
>> To: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
>> Date: Saturday, July 22, 2000 10:14 PM
>> Subject: Re: Dash board top removal???
>>
>>
>> >Hold on!
>> >
>> >I will give you the exact dimensions to find the captive nut (which is
>in
>> >the top of the dash, not the wood), but I'm just beat tonight. Just got
>> >back from the ABFM in Seattle a little while ago, and have to load up my
>> >BN7 MK2 to take to the West Coast Meet tomorrow. I will take the
>> >measurements tomorrow and e-mail you. The nut should be easy to find
>once
>> >you know where to look.
>> >
>> >You are correct, the tonneau does NOT attach to a stud holding the rear
>> >view mirror. I think Bug-Eyes did that.
>> >
>> >John Snyder
>> >'60 BT7
>> >'61 BN7 MK 2
>> >'62 BT7 MK2
>> >
>> >----------
>> >> From: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
>> >> To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> >> Subject: Dash board top removal???
>> >> Date: Friday, July 21, 2000 9:49 PM
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> I need to install one snap post for the new tunneau cover I bought
>from
>> >> Healey Surgeons. It is the one in the middle that holds the passenger
>> >side
>> >> up and tight while you are driving. Supposedly there is a captive nut
>in
>> >> the wood that comprises the top of the dashboard (horizontal part
>running
>> >> forward to the window). I was told that the rearview mirror screws
>and
>> >the
>> >> left and right tunneau snap posts were all that held the top down.
>This
>> >> doesn't seem right (especially since I now have them loose and there
>> >isn't
>> >> any more movement).
>> >> I want to poke a hole thru the dash padding with a needle running from
>> >the
>> >> captive nut up so that I get it right the first time.
>> >> Anybody got a suggestion or hint?
>> >> Lee Mairs
>> >> 62 BT7 tri-carb
>> >>
>>
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 21:37:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Trafficator Adjustments
Hi Tim,
The problem that you describe is brobably due to a broken spring under the
contact shoe on the trafficator arm. This is not adjustable and would require
the
disassembly of the trafficator switch a tricky but doable job.
Two hints. Don't force or pry anything and have a large clear space to collect
all the parts from when it flies apart.
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Healybj8@aol.com wrote:
> OK, my turn signals have gone out again, and I'm trying to chase down the
> problem. It seems that when I hard wire the circuit, by-passing the flasher
> unit, I don't always get the turn signal lights to light. Its only if I push
> down on the trafficator lever that they then light.
>
> Is there some way to adjust the contacts in the trafficator? I figured I'd
> ask before I pull the thing out. I'm pretty sure its not the wiring harness
> in the stator tube as I have replaced that recently, so its the trafficator
> switch in the steering wheel that seems to be where the problem rests.
>
> TIA
>
> Tim Wallace
> '67 BJ8
> Fuquay-Varina, NC
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 22:38:05 -0400
Subject: trafficator dissasembly
Tim,
One quick note before the parts explosion, Mike is correct in stating parts
could fly. I had one do this to me. The casing was cracked and upon
dissasembly I had a fun time trying to locate parts on the shop floor !
Also try to draw a diagram of the inside, it will help in reassembly
.
Carroll Phillips
From JSoderling at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 00:35:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Dash board top removal???
Lee,
I acquired my l00-Six a year ago and in the restoration the PO did not
reinstall the two turnbuttons or the center Tenax stud in the dash for the
tonneau cover to attach to. By looking under the dash at the ends it was
easy to find the old holes (two) for the turnbuttons and poke a needle up
through them to locate and screw on the turnbuttons. But, like you, I
couldn't locate the prior hole for reinstalling the center Tenax stud.
So I got a Tenax stud at a local auto upholstery shop with a sheetmetal screw
fastener (rather than a nut fastener) and simply screwed it carefully thru
the vinyl material and padding and into the metal scuttle top. I just used a
lot of downward force to get it to self-tap start (you could carefully drill
a very small pilot hole first), And it screwed right in. It is very solid
and has held well for a year now. I cover the passenger side with the
tonneau frequently when I drive and the stud has yet to loosen.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 01:01:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: British Sports Car Center Pine River, WI
Try 920-833-6534.
I talked to Chris about six months ago and I "think" that was the number,
He's still in business. BTW way I thought the town he was in was Seymour WI
DickB
---- you wrote:
> Dear grapevine,
>
> Who might know whatever happened to British Sports Car Center, Pine River,
> Wisconsin, a.k.a. Chris Mills, north of Appleton. Prior phone numbers are
> invalid, and appearantly the area code was changed. Chris has (or had) a
> HUGE inventory of Brit car parts and a very active Brit car wrecking yard.
> Even if he went out of business the parts could not possibly have
> disappeared. Parts needed, information needed. Where in the world is
> Chris Mills and his business?
>
> Barney Gaylord
> 1958 MGA with an attitude (and some forelorne friends)
> http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 03:05:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Dash board top removal???
Lee
I've been watching this with some amusment.
I also have a '62 Tri-carb and this winter I removed the dash top and recovered
it. My dashtop was held son with the two machine screws that hold the rear
view mirror - which go into captive nuts, and the two Tonneau fitments in the
outside position and the one in the middle for the passenger half.
When I restored my car I felt that Gripper fasteners were best for the tonneau.
The make half of a Gripper consists of the elevated ring with a wood screw in
the center. Locate your tonneau by stretching it tight - press the corner
which has the Gripper female against the vinyl to make an indemtation and the
install the Male side of the gripper with the wood screw into the wooden
backing of the dashpad.
If your Tonneau already has Tenax or Lift-the-Dot females installed, you can
get male Tenax or Lift-the- Dots at any upholstery supply house or shop. They
come in machine screw and wood screw variants and each has a hex fitment so
once having started them - by pressing or hammering them lightly through the
ninyl and padding you can screw them down with a 1/4" wrench.
Finally if your Tonneau already has Turn-button females installed, the male
Turn-button can be installed with long blind rivets (which is the way they are
installed at the two tabs at the door-shut ends) and you can use a appropriate
drill to drill through the wood dashtop and the fact that you can't see the
other side should be a problem - "blind rivets, Eh"
If the screws in any case are too long and penetrate the wood and reach the
metal dashtop, a little extra effort will drive them into the metal - it's
quite thin.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Hi John -
> Thanks for your reply. Here is what happened.
> When I looked from below at the underside of the dash top, I found that the
> metal strip (is this what you called inner cowl?) covers the top wood.
> there is no sign of the captive nut; however, it could very well be on the
> other side of the metal strip/inner cowl and I would never know.
> Your measurements correspond to what my tonneau cover indicates is the place
> where the tenax stud should go, but how to be sure?
> It looks like I'm going to have to take the dash top entirely out (which I
> think means removing the wind screen as there is a screw in each corner of
> the dash top that is about 1/2" from the slanting glass of the windscreen).
> I might could get lucky with my puncture of the dash leather, and I might
> also be lucky enough to have the captive screw right where it is supposed to
> be. Of course its more likely that I would win the lottery! I guess I'm
> going to have to do without unless I can find a shop willing to take the
> risk.
>
> Lee
> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
> (with a droopy tonneau)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Snyder <johnahsn@olypen.com>
> To: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
> Date: Sunday, July 23, 2000 10:05 AM
> Subject: Re: Dash board top removal???
>
>
> >Hi Lee!
> >
> >OK, here we go. The hole for the snap post is exactly 2" to the right of
> >the right side screw for the rear view mirror, but further to the rear than
> >the mirror screws. The hole is JUST forward of the turned-down lip on the
> >inner cowl (the metal that the padded dash mounts on top of)...like 1/16"
> >between the rear edge of the hole and the front face of the lip. I checked
> >both my BN7 MK 2 and BT7 MK 1. If you put your head under the dash, and
> >look up, you should be able to see this hole (between the face of the
> >instrument panel and the lip).
> >
> >MUCH to my surprise, there is no captive nut. (so much for my memory) On
> >the BT7, the post is just screwed into the metal of the inner cowl and has
> >been holding the tonneau fine for years (and I almost always run w/ the
> >passenger side covered). The BN7 MK 2 also has no captive nut. It looks
> >like there is just enough room to run a nut up on the post threads if you
> >wanted to.
> >
> >I just finished this chassis restoration last week, and the body/interior
> >have not been installed yet. Am taking the naked chassis to the West Coast
> >Meet so folks can see what is under the body of a big Healey.
> >
> >Good luck
> >
> >John
> >
> >----------
> >> From: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
> >> To: John Snyder <johnahsn@olypen.com>
> >> Subject: Re: Dash board top removal???
> >> Date: Sunday, July 23, 2000 2:35 AM
> >>
> >> John -
> >> I'm much appreciative. Thanks also for waiting a day. Now I can spend
> >the
> >> morning watching the British Open!
> >> Lee
> >> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
> >>
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: John Snyder <johnahsn@olypen.com>
> >> To: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
> >> Date: Saturday, July 22, 2000 10:14 PM
> >> Subject: Re: Dash board top removal???
> >>
> >>
> >> >Hold on!
> >> >
> >> >I will give you the exact dimensions to find the captive nut (which is
> >in
> >> >the top of the dash, not the wood), but I'm just beat tonight. Just got
> >> >back from the ABFM in Seattle a little while ago, and have to load up my
> >> >BN7 MK2 to take to the West Coast Meet tomorrow. I will take the
> >> >measurements tomorrow and e-mail you. The nut should be easy to find
> >once
> >> >you know where to look.
> >> >
> >> >You are correct, the tonneau does NOT attach to a stud holding the rear
> >> >view mirror. I think Bug-Eyes did that.
> >> >
> >> >John Snyder
> >> >'60 BT7
> >> >'61 BN7 MK 2
> >> >'62 BT7 MK2
> >> >
> >> >----------
> >> >> From: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
> >> >> To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >> >> Subject: Dash board top removal???
> >> >> Date: Friday, July 21, 2000 9:49 PM
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> I need to install one snap post for the new tunneau cover I bought
> >from
> >> >> Healey Surgeons. It is the one in the middle that holds the passenger
> >> >side
> >> >> up and tight while you are driving. Supposedly there is a captive nut
> >in
> >> >> the wood that comprises the top of the dashboard (horizontal part
> >running
> >> >> forward to the window). I was told that the rearview mirror screws
> >and
> >> >the
> >> >> left and right tunneau snap posts were all that held the top down.
> >This
> >> >> doesn't seem right (especially since I now have them loose and there
> >> >isn't
> >> >> any more movement).
> >> >> I want to poke a hole thru the dash padding with a needle running from
> >> >the
> >> >> captive nut up so that I get it right the first time.
> >> >> Anybody got a suggestion or hint?
> >> >> Lee Mairs
> >> >> 62 BT7 tri-carb
> >> >>
> >>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From njones at amadeus.net
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 10:37:17 +0100
Subject: MK-11 'W' shape Fuel pump bracket-1961
From: Nick Jones@AMAWORLD on 24/07/2000 10:37 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
cc:
Subject: MK-11 'W' shape Fuel pump bracket-1961
Would anyone have a used 'W' shape fuel pump barcket as described in
Garys/Rogers latest book to fit my MK11.
This was the bracket that would have been fitted to the LH rear panel before
they moved it to the RH side.
Many thanks
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 11:29:56 +0100
Subject: RE: Dash board top removal???
Hi,
I see tha you've attracted a fair amount of comment
on this one.
I seems to me that your tonneau is very tight if you have
that much of a struggle to position it. It is not too
far back by any chance is it?
My dash is original, I'm sure. It has no captive bolt,
but maybe they stopped fitting them at some stage.
I've looked hard at my BMC Service Parts List and
have not seen evidence of there being one for a
BT7, but I admit that's hardly conclusive!
A couple of other guys seem to have come out in
favour of the wood screw Tenax and I still reckon
that's a good way to go. I use my tonneau
all the time-hardly ever take the Old Brute out if
the weather suggests hood or Hard Top-the screwed in
Tenaxes have not shifted.
When you think about it, no two tonneau covers are ever 100%
identical. They are all offered up to their individual cars and
made to fit by their long suffering owners? (Whether I own my
car or it owns me is a moot point. I'd guess we all ponder
that one?). So.......having this captive nut would seem to me to
be giving the fitter a fixed datum point where he least needs it.
Almost predicating that one starts at the mirror and works backwards
as one determines where the fasteners go on the the tonneau's edge??
If my memory serves me right, I put the cross piece in, plus
the five stiffeners. Then I lined the central stiffener up between
the two back central tenaxes and worked off that. I think that the
first holes I punched were for the side eyelets.
If you want trim trouble, try mucking about with a Hard
Top.
Simon.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lee S. Mairs [mailto:lmairs@ix.netcom.com]
> Sent: 23 July 2000 11:03
> To: Simon Lachlan; Healey
> Subject: Re: Dash board top removal???
>
>
> Hi Simon -
> According to Healey Surgeons there is an embedded nut in the top
> of the dash
> that will accept a Tenax with a threaded base. Inam showed me the nut on
> one of their dash top wood pieces that they have in stock. They sold me a
> threaded base Tenax pin.
> With my tunneau in place, I can't see how the cover end can stretch far
> enough to get past the heavily padded aft edge of the dash top. I have to
> make sure the car is in gear and the brake set before I can push and shove
> the cover up to grab the port and starboard twist fittings!
> I'm afraid my dash will look like Swiss cheese if I end up using the "hunt
> and peck" method to locate the proper place to catch the captive nut. Now
> if I could fit the car under my Doctor's x-ray machine...
> Lee
> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk>
> To: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>; Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Sunday, July 23, 2000 4:43 AM
> Subject: RE: Dash board top removal???
>
>
> >Presume that you are going to use the regular fixings at
> >the front of yr. tonneau? Same as the ones at the back?
> >Forget their name. (And I haven't bought THE BOOK yet
> >despite it's excelllent reviews in UK).
> >
> >The male (car) portions on my BT7 came with nuts and washers.
> >But there were no fixings on my dash top. Yet in the PO's
> >box of spares and accumulated c**p were several of the male
> >portions with wood screws instead of the threaded bit. So:
> >Put the tonneau on tight.
> >Pull it up to correct position on dash, with zip done up.
> >Push a pin through tonneau into dash. That will mark where to put
> >the female section on the tonneau and show you where to put
> >the male bit into the dash.
> >I took a small (new) drill bit, put it in a chuck extension
> >and twiddled it, by hand, round and in far enough to get the
> >hole started.
> >The male portion will take a spanner. Once the thread begins to
> >bite, you can simply wind it in with a spanner or something from
> >yr 3\8s drive socket set.
> >
> > Simon.
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> >> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Lee S. Mairs
> >> Sent: 22 July 2000 05:49
> >> To: Healey
> >> Subject: Dash board top removal???
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> I need to install one snap post for the new tunneau cover I bought from
> >> Healey Surgeons. It is the one in the middle that holds the
> >> passenger side
> >> up and tight while you are driving. Supposedly there is a
> captive nut in
> >> the wood that comprises the top of the dashboard (horizontal
> part running
> >> forward to the window). I was told that the rearview mirror
> >> screws and the
> >> left and right tunneau snap posts were all that held the top
> down. This
> >> doesn't seem right (especially since I now have them loose and there
> isn't
> >> any more movement).
> >> I want to poke a hole thru the dash padding with a needle running from
> the
> >> captive nut up so that I get it right the first time.
> >> Anybody got a suggestion or hint?
> >> Lee Mairs
> >> 62 BT7 tri-carb
> >>
> >
>
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 07:23:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Idaho Registration
Hi all,
Could someone please tell me if Idaho offers a tax-free or tax-reduced
"classic" or "antique" vehicle registration that would apply to a car made
in 1960? Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
Reid
_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 10:31:06 -0400
Subject: Re:BN2 Supplement
Hi,
I have an original BN2 service manual supplement available. If you are
interested please contact me off the list. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 11:02:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Dash board top removal???
>I've been watching this with some amusment.
Funny, I wasn't amused while hanging this fat, old body upside down for
several hours this weekend! I haven't worked on a car since I was a
youngster stationed in Pearl Harbor. There are a few back muscles that God
gave us for use only in working on cars. Mine are a bit out of shape!
Thanks for your suggestions. Between this and several others, I know think
I understand how the dash is put together. The tenax with the sheet metal
screw seems to be the way to go even tho I got a machine screw tenax when I
purchased the tonneau.
Related question: I removed the rear-view mirror held in place by two
machine screws obviously picking up captive nuts embedded in the wood top,
and the two outside twist-style canvas posts held by wood screws to the
wooden top.
So how come the dash top wouldn't budge? I figured it was the two screws in
the top left and right hand corners that are impossible to remove without
removing the wind shield. Are they there just to fasten the nauga's skin to
the forward edge of the dash top?
Lee
62 BT7 Tri-carb
>I also have a '62 Tri-carb and this winter I removed the dash top and
recovered it. My dashtop was held son with the two machine screws that hold
the rear view mirror - which go into captive nuts, and the two Tonneau
fitments in the outside position and the one in the middle for the passenger
half.
>
>When I restored my car I felt that Gripper fasteners were best for the
tonneau. The make half of a Gripper consists of the elevated ring with a
wood screw in the center. Locate your tonneau by stretching it tight -
press the corner which has the Gripper female against the vinyl to make an
indemtation and the install the Male side of the gripper with the wood screw
into the wooden backing of the dashpad.
>
>If your Tonneau already has Tenax or Lift-the-Dot females installed, you
can get male Tenax or Lift-the- Dots at any upholstery supply house or
shop. They come in machine screw and wood screw variants and each has a hex
fitment so once having started them - by pressing or hammering them lightly
through the ninyl and padding you can screw them down with a 1/4" wrench.
>
>Finally if your Tonneau already has Turn-button females installed, the male
Turn-button can be installed with long blind rivets (which is the way they
are installed at the two tabs at the door-shut ends) and you can use a
appropriate drill to drill through the wood dashtop and the fact that you
can't see the other side should be a problem - "blind rivets, Eh"
>
>If the screws in any case are too long and penetrate the wood and reach the
metal dashtop, a little extra effort will drive them into the metal - it's
quite thin.
>
>DickB
>
>
> ---- you wrote:
>>
>> Hi John -
>> Thanks for your reply. Here is what happened.
>> When I looked from below at the underside of the dash top, I found that
the
>> metal strip (is this what you called inner cowl?) covers the top wood.
>> there is no sign of the captive nut; however, it could very well be on
the
>> other side of the metal strip/inner cowl and I would never know.
>> Your measurements correspond to what my tonneau cover indicates is the
place
>> where the tenax stud should go, but how to be sure?
>> It looks like I'm going to have to take the dash top entirely out (which
I
>> think means removing the wind screen as there is a screw in each corner
of
>> the dash top that is about 1/2" from the slanting glass of the
windscreen).
>> I might could get lucky with my puncture of the dash leather, and I might
>> also be lucky enough to have the captive screw right where it is supposed
to
>> be. Of course its more likely that I would win the lottery! I guess I'm
>> going to have to do without unless I can find a shop willing to take the
>> risk.
>>
>> Lee
>> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
>> (with a droopy tonneau)
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: John Snyder <johnahsn@olypen.com>
>> To: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
>> Date: Sunday, July 23, 2000 10:05 AM
>> Subject: Re: Dash board top removal???
>>
>>
>> >Hi Lee!
>> >
>> >OK, here we go. The hole for the snap post is exactly 2" to the right
of
>> >the right side screw for the rear view mirror, but further to the rear
than
>> >the mirror screws. The hole is JUST forward of the turned-down lip on
the
>> >inner cowl (the metal that the padded dash mounts on top of)...like
1/16"
>> >between the rear edge of the hole and the front face of the lip. I
checked
>> >both my BN7 MK 2 and BT7 MK 1. If you put your head under the dash, and
>> >look up, you should be able to see this hole (between the face of the
>> >instrument panel and the lip).
>> >
>> >MUCH to my surprise, there is no captive nut. (so much for my memory)
On
>> >the BT7, the post is just screwed into the metal of the inner cowl and
has
>> >been holding the tonneau fine for years (and I almost always run w/ the
>> >passenger side covered). The BN7 MK 2 also has no captive nut. It
looks
>> >like there is just enough room to run a nut up on the post threads if
you
>> >wanted to.
>> >
>> >I just finished this chassis restoration last week, and the
body/interior
>> >have not been installed yet. Am taking the naked chassis to the West
Coast
>> >Meet so folks can see what is under the body of a big Healey.
>> >
>> >Good luck
>> >
>> >John
>> >
>> >----------
>> >> From: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
>> >> To: John Snyder <johnahsn@olypen.com>
>> >> Subject: Re: Dash board top removal???
>> >> Date: Sunday, July 23, 2000 2:35 AM
>> >>
>> >> John -
>> >> I'm much appreciative. Thanks also for waiting a day. Now I can
spend
>> >the
>> >> morning watching the British Open!
>> >> Lee
>> >> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> -----Original Message-----
>> >> From: John Snyder <johnahsn@olypen.com>
>> >> To: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
>> >> Date: Saturday, July 22, 2000 10:14 PM
>> >> Subject: Re: Dash board top removal???
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> >Hold on!
>> >> >
>> >> >I will give you the exact dimensions to find the captive nut (which
is
>> >in
>> >> >the top of the dash, not the wood), but I'm just beat tonight. Just
got
>> >> >back from the ABFM in Seattle a little while ago, and have to load up
my
>> >> >BN7 MK2 to take to the West Coast Meet tomorrow. I will take the
>> >> >measurements tomorrow and e-mail you. The nut should be easy to find
>> >once
>> >> >you know where to look.
>> >> >
>> >> >You are correct, the tonneau does NOT attach to a stud holding the
rear
>> >> >view mirror. I think Bug-Eyes did that.
>> >> >
>> >> >John Snyder
>> >> >'60 BT7
>> >> >'61 BN7 MK 2
>> >> >'62 BT7 MK2
>> >> >
>> >> >----------
>> >> >> From: Lee S. Mairs <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
>> >> >> To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> >> >> Subject: Dash board top removal???
>> >> >> Date: Friday, July 21, 2000 9:49 PM
>> >> >>
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I need to install one snap post for the new tunneau cover I bought
>> >from
>> >> >> Healey Surgeons. It is the one in the middle that holds the
passenger
>> >> >side
>> >> >> up and tight while you are driving. Supposedly there is a captive
nut
>> >in
>> >> >> the wood that comprises the top of the dashboard (horizontal part
>> >running
>> >> >> forward to the window). I was told that the rearview mirror screws
>> >and
>> >> >the
>> >> >> left and right tunneau snap posts were all that held the top down.
>> >This
>> >> >> doesn't seem right (especially since I now have them loose and
there
>> >> >isn't
>> >> >> any more movement).
>> >> >> I want to poke a hole thru the dash padding with a needle running
from
>> >> >the
>> >> >> captive nut up so that I get it right the first time.
>> >> >> Anybody got a suggestion or hint?
>> >> >> Lee Mairs
>> >> >> 62 BT7 tri-carb
>> >> >>
>> >>
>>
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------
From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 11:14:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Newest Owner - Harrison Ford?!?
In a message dated 07/19/2000 2:00:44 PM Pacific Daylight Time, WilKo@aol.com
writes:
<< I heard (anecdotally) of Carroll Oconnor (sp) being in a bidding war with
a
Healey owner over a rare hardtop for a BJ8. >>
Hi all
Carroll O'Conner did indeed have a BRG BJ8 a few years ago (and may still),
which I saw a few years ago a Randy Cook's shop "Healey Masters' in Los
Angeles. It was one of the most original and rust free Healeys that I've
ever seen. I saw the car both assembled and complete and as a bare chassis
prior to a complete restoration.
As the story goes, Randy had known the previous owner for many years and had
worked on the cars over the years. When Mr. O'Conner purchased the car along
with every spare available to include a complete spare drivetrain, Randy was
asked to do a complete ground up restoration on the car. Knowing the car as
well as he did, and that it was a virtual Time capsule it was so original,
Randy was very reluctant to completely disassemble the car and destroy that
originality. Like I said having seen the car all that was needed was a
thorough reconditioning of the car.
Well anyway, Mr. O'Conner then took the car to one of the premier auto
restoration shops in LA to have it done his way! A few months later the bare
chassis, still with the original paint, was back at Randy's shop. Apparently
this shop was a very busy place and since they were not Healey experts and
Healey Masters was, Randy was contracted to restore the chassis anyway, which
he did at a premium I might add.
I wish I had gotten some pictures of the bare chassis, as it was truly one of
the last of the low mileage, original and undamaged ones.
Cheers
Curt Arndt
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 09:10:00 -0700
Subject: tranny trouble -advice needed
Greetings listers
I have a problem that needs diagnosis and fix recommendations please. This
weekend while stretching my Healey ('66 BJ8) out on the road, the gear
shifter popped out of 2nd and 4th gears three times each. It has done this
in the past but not so often. It only pops out of gear when coasting or
going downhill under compression - never under acceleration. Also, the only
way I can reliably get my car into 1st gear at a dead stop without crunching
is first slip it into 2nd and then slide it up into 1st. Is this a problem
or a common issue with these beasts? So (as my neighbor suggests), are my
syncro gears messed up? If so, what is involved in the fix? Thanks in
advance guys. Randy Harris
----- Original Message -----
From: <CNAArndt@aol.com>
To: <WilKo@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 8:14 AM
Subject: Re: Newest Owner - Harrison Ford?!?
>
> In a message dated 07/19/2000 2:00:44 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
WilKo@aol.com
> writes:
>
> << I heard (anecdotally) of Carroll Oconnor (sp) being in a bidding war
with
> a
> Healey owner over a rare hardtop for a BJ8. >>
>
> Hi all
>
> Carroll O'Conner did indeed have a BRG BJ8 a few years ago (and may
still),
> which I saw a few years ago a Randy Cook's shop "Healey Masters' in Los
> Angeles. It was one of the most original and rust free Healeys that I've
> ever seen. I saw the car both assembled and complete and as a bare
chassis
> prior to a complete restoration.
>
> As the story goes, Randy had known the previous owner for many years and
had
> worked on the cars over the years. When Mr. O'Conner purchased the car
along
> with every spare available to include a complete spare drivetrain, Randy
was
> asked to do a complete ground up restoration on the car. Knowing the car
as
> well as he did, and that it was a virtual Time capsule it was so original,
> Randy was very reluctant to completely disassemble the car and destroy
that
> originality. Like I said having seen the car all that was needed was a
> thorough reconditioning of the car.
>
> Well anyway, Mr. O'Conner then took the car to one of the premier auto
> restoration shops in LA to have it done his way! A few months later the
bare
> chassis, still with the original paint, was back at Randy's shop.
Apparently
> this shop was a very busy place and since they were not Healey experts and
> Healey Masters was, Randy was contracted to restore the chassis anyway,
which
> he did at a premium I might add.
>
> I wish I had gotten some pictures of the bare chassis, as it was truly one
of
> the last of the low mileage, original and undamaged ones.
>
> Cheers
>
> Curt Arndt
>
From Healybj8 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 13:12:25 EDT
Subject: Re: tranny trouble -advice needed
Sounds to me like you have a worn out transmission. The lever arms which
engage the gears have become worn, and as a result, the gears are not being
fully engaged. Since the gears are not being fully pushed into position, they
have a tendency to walk out of position. This is most noticable under
deceleration, hence this popps out of gear. Mine did this for a long time, and
I eventually bit the bullet and did a complete rebuild. I was to the point
where I had to hold the shifter in fourth gear when decelerating all the time
as it would pop out otherwise.
I don't think there is an easy fix to the problem other than a complete rebuild
of the transmission.
You can live with the problem for a while, but eventually it will need to be
rebuilt. I don't think there is an impending danger of catastrophic failure,
so driving it as it is should be OK, and if it does get bad, you should be able
to get home on the thing. If it really bothers you, then pull it out and have
it rebuilt. Get a new clutch and throw-out bearing while you are at it.
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 11:46:50 -0600
Subject: Re: tranny trouble -advice needed
Randy,
What Tim says about worn selectors is essentially correct. However, it is
impossible to "rebuild" a Healey transmission with new parts, unless you
know someone with a great collection of NOS parts. Be satisfied with
good/better used parts.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: <Healybj8@aol.com>
To: <coop1@dnai.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: tranny trouble -advice needed
>
> Sounds to me like you have a worn out transmission. The lever arms which
engage the gears have become worn, and as a result, the gears are not being
fully engaged. Since the gears are not being fully pushed into position,
they have a tendency to walk out of position. This is most noticable under
deceleration, hence this popps out of gear. Mine did this for a long time,
and I eventually bit the bullet and did a complete rebuild. I was to the
point where I had to hold the shifter in fourth gear when decelerating all
the time as it would pop out otherwise.
>
> I don't think there is an easy fix to the problem other than a complete
rebuild of the transmission.
>
> You can live with the problem for a while, but eventually it will need to
be rebuilt. I don't think there is an impending danger of catastrophic
failure, so driving it as it is should be OK, and if it does get bad, you
should be able to get home on the thing. If it really bothers you, then
pull it out and have it rebuilt. Get a new clutch and throw-out bearing
while you are at it.
>
> Tim Wallace
> '67 BJ8
> Fuquay-Varina, NC
>
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 11:54:14 -0600
Subject: follow up on" radar and assholism"
Greetings listers,
51 days ago I asked for usable defense strategies to overcome a radar
speeding ticket.
Well my day in court was today. I must admit that it was worth the wait and
the time spent preparing my defense. I left the court with a dismissal. No
points, no fines,nada. God bless America and Paynofine.com and this list for
the radar education.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 16:10:34 -0500
Subject: Re: tranny trouble -advice needed
. It only pops out of gear when coasting or
>going downhill under compression - never under acceleration. Also, the only
>way I can reliably get my car into 1st gear at a dead stop without crunching
>is first slip it into 2nd and then slide it up into 1st.
>
Randy:
The symptoms do not sound like synchro problems, more like worn shifter
forks or detents that are sticking. When the gears are under load, the
friction keeps them engaged. With no load, if the shifter fork is loose,
the gears can disengage. I wonder if the springs holding the detent balls
might be gummed up from old oil impurities?
Engaging second before first at a stop to help the gear box into first is
normal in my experience.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 16:33:37 -0500
Subject: How many BN7 two seat tri carbs are left?
I've been trying to get an accurate count of the number of two seat tri carb
BN7's that are left of the 355 produced. I would appreciate hearing from
anyone who owns one.
Off list is preferred.
Don
BN7
dyarber@dynasty.net
From "Dr. C Rubino" <ruvino at recorder.ca>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 17:27:13 -0400
Subject:
Who has a two-tone BJ-8 with green top and white bottom and can't get their
hands on the A&W cruising 2 CD with the white/green BJ-8 on the cover and
disc?
First one to respond with an address (assuming you are all very honest and
meet the criteria above) will get it in the mail in about a week.
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 16:01:48 -0400
Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
Dave, just between you and the listers, were you speeding?
Rayfixitanddriveitand watch yourspeedFeehan.
-----Original Message-----
From: frogeye <frogeye@gateway.net>
To: Healeys@autox.team.net <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, July 24, 2000 1:53 PM
Subject: follow up on" radar and assholism"
>
>Greetings listers,
> 51 days ago I asked for usable defense strategies to overcome a radar
>speeding ticket.
> Well my day in court was today. I must admit that it was worth the wait
and
>the time spent preparing my defense. I left the court with a dismissal. No
>points, no fines,nada. God bless America and Paynofine.com and this list
for
>the radar education.
>
>
>Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
>59 AH :{) 54 BN1
>
>Click below for webpage and mopeds:
>http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
>
>
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 16:09:01 -0600
Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
NO. I was absolutely going the posted speed of 55. Otherwise I would have
accepted the "states" offer of driving school and court costs.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 2:01 PM
Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
> Dave, just between you and the listers, were you speeding?
> Rayfixitanddriveitand watch yourspeedFeehan.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: frogeye <frogeye@gateway.net>
> To: Healeys@autox.team.net <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Monday, July 24, 2000 1:53 PM
> Subject: follow up on" radar and assholism"
>
>
> >
> >Greetings listers,
> > 51 days ago I asked for usable defense strategies to overcome a radar
> >speeding ticket.
> > Well my day in court was today. I must admit that it was worth the wait
> and
> >the time spent preparing my defense. I left the court with a dismissal.
No
> >points, no fines,nada. God bless America and Paynofine.com and this list
> for
> >the radar education.
> >
> >
> >Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> >59 AH :{) 54 BN1
> >
> >Click below for webpage and mopeds:
>
>http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
> >
> >
>
>
From "Manser, Michael" <M-Manser at ttimail.tamu.edu>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 17:37:23 -0500
Subject: Healey Sightings
Healeyphiles,
Was watching a program on Amsterdam on the travel channel and spotted a
Healey crossing a bridge in the background. Anyone else see this?
Mike
BJ8/34456
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 16:08:47 +0000
Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
So, what were you charged with, what was your defense and was the officer
who wrote the ticket in the courtroom?
----------
>From: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
>To: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>, <Healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
>Date: Mon, Jul 24, 2000, 10:09 PM
>
>
> NO. I was absolutely going the posted speed of 55. Otherwise I would have
> accepted the "states" offer of driving school and court costs.
> Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> 59 AH :{) 54 BN1
>
> Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>
> To: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 2:01 PM
> Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
>
>
>> Dave, just between you and the listers, were you speeding?
>> Rayfixitanddriveitand watch yourspeedFeehan.
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: frogeye <frogeye@gateway.net>
>> To: Healeys@autox.team.net <Healeys@autox.team.net>
>> Date: Monday, July 24, 2000 1:53 PM
>> Subject: follow up on" radar and assholism"
>>
>>
>> >
>> >Greetings listers,
>> > 51 days ago I asked for usable defense strategies to overcome a radar
>> >speeding ticket.
>> > Well my day in court was today. I must admit that it was worth the wait
>> and
>> >the time spent preparing my defense. I left the court with a dismissal.
> No
>> >points, no fines,nada. God bless America and Paynofine.com and this list
>> for
>> >the radar education.
>> >
>> >
>> >Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
>> >59 AH :{) 54 BN1
>> >
>> >Click below for webpage and mopeds:
>>
>>http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 15:52:31 -0700
Subject: RE: Carpets
I am a ways off from this stage, but I am wondering about the Armacord that
is used to cover the area behind the seats of the two-seater cars. Is it
available in colors? Maybe I'm just lame, but I don't see it included in
the descriptions of the seat, panel or carpet kits. I'll be going with
blue. I've seen Armacord for the trunk area in black only.
Thanks for the collective wisdom and experience...
Martin Johnson
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, July 21, 2000 12:48 PM
To: jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Carpets
In a message dated 7/21/00 5:17:28 AM, jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au writes:
<< Can anyone advise me of the quality of carpet kits supplied from USA
suppliers. On e-bay there are currently carpet kits for sale.
Are carpet kits from Moss and others true to originality and quality? >>
I'll let others speak for quality of the regular vendors (my kits came from
Macgregor and Svilans in Canada and were pricey, were made to my order, and
took a long time to get, but were very well done and were made up in Wilton
wool).
As for originality, no body is making original spec carpets anymore, since
only one supplier is using the original material, which was a thin-pile
Karvel "hogs-hair" wool/poly blend and theirs are the wrong colors.
Original
carpets also were distinguishable because their backing was made of woven
jute, very similar in appearance to burlap. Also, original carpets did not
have bound edges, except around the gear shift opening and hand brake
opening.
If I were doing it all over, I'd still opt for a 100 percent wool carpet
rather than the blends that are available. You do want to stay away from
the
really cheap kits -- they're almost always made up of 100 percent synthetic
and they scream cheap, Cheap, CHEAP.
You'll have to find someone else who's recently bought from Moss, Healey
Surgeons, British Car Specialists, or other sources. (I believe each of the
three I listed has their carpets cut and edged by their own suppliers.
From JustBrits at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 19:46:41 EDT
Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
In a message dated 07/24/2000 5:53:39 PM Central Daylight Time,
arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net writes:
<< and was the officer
who wrote the ticket in the courtroom? >>
Huuuum, me smells a "lawyer" type here<G><G>!!
Ed
PS: "cause if he "complaing witness" is not present.........................
From "jack_rosen" <jack_rosen at hotmail.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 19:54:50 -0400
Subject: Re: tranny trouble -advice needed
Randy,
hope you were able to decipher the last emails I forwarded.
It makes sense that it would pop out on coast, as the tranny
starts to torque against the engine, that's the normal condition,
i.e. when under engine load, the gears tend to mesh 'more' and fit tighter
otherwise they'd pop out under acceleration, a real no-no.
The emails I forwarded do spell a teardown, and the AH Tranny
is a medium weight bear of a job anyway.
I always keep a rebuilt spare trans handy in the boot.
let me know if you didn't get the earlier postings.
jr
----- Original Message -----
From: "Coop1" <coop1@dnai.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 12:10 PM
Subject: tranny trouble -advice needed
>
> Greetings listers
>
> I have a problem that needs diagnosis and fix recommendations please. This
> weekend while stretching my Healey ('66 BJ8) out on the road, the gear
> shifter popped out of 2nd and 4th gears three times each. It has done this
> in the past but not so often. It only pops out of gear when coasting or
> going downhill under compression - never under acceleration. Also, the
only
> way I can reliably get my car into 1st gear at a dead stop without
crunching
> is first slip it into 2nd and then slide it up into 1st. Is this a
problem
> or a common issue with these beasts? So (as my neighbor suggests), are my
> syncro gears messed up? If so, what is involved in the fix? Thanks in
> advance guys. Randy Harris
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <CNAArndt@aol.com>
> To: <WilKo@aol.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 8:14 AM
> Subject: Re: Newest Owner - Harrison Ford?!?
>
>
> >
> > In a message dated 07/19/2000 2:00:44 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> WilKo@aol.com
> > writes:
> >
> > << I heard (anecdotally) of Carroll Oconnor (sp) being in a bidding war
> with
> > a
> > Healey owner over a rare hardtop for a BJ8. >>
> >
> > Hi all
> >
> > Carroll O'Conner did indeed have a BRG BJ8 a few years ago (and may
> still),
> > which I saw a few years ago a Randy Cook's shop "Healey Masters' in Los
> > Angeles. It was one of the most original and rust free Healeys that
I've
> > ever seen. I saw the car both assembled and complete and as a bare
> chassis
> > prior to a complete restoration.
> >
> > As the story goes, Randy had known the previous owner for many years and
> had
> > worked on the cars over the years. When Mr. O'Conner purchased the car
> along
> > with every spare available to include a complete spare drivetrain, Randy
> was
> > asked to do a complete ground up restoration on the car. Knowing the
car
> as
> > well as he did, and that it was a virtual Time capsule it was so
original,
> > Randy was very reluctant to completely disassemble the car and destroy
> that
> > originality. Like I said having seen the car all that was needed was a
> > thorough reconditioning of the car.
> >
> > Well anyway, Mr. O'Conner then took the car to one of the premier auto
> > restoration shops in LA to have it done his way! A few months later the
> bare
> > chassis, still with the original paint, was back at Randy's shop.
> Apparently
> > this shop was a very busy place and since they were not Healey experts
and
> > Healey Masters was, Randy was contracted to restore the chassis anyway,
> which
> > he did at a premium I might add.
> >
> > I wish I had gotten some pictures of the bare chassis, as it was truly
one
> of
> > the last of the low mileage, original and undamaged ones.
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Curt Arndt
> >
>
>
>
From "jack_rosen" <jack_rosen at hotmail.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 19:59:51 -0400
Subject: Re: tranny trouble -advice needed
Oh, and it's not a synchro problem,
those are the gozintas problems
not the gozoutas.
jr
----- Original Message -----
From: "Coop1" <coop1@dnai.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 12:10 PM
Subject: tranny trouble -advice needed
>
> Greetings listers
>
> I have a problem that needs diagnosis and fix recommendations please. This
> weekend while stretching my Healey ('66 BJ8) out on the road, the gear
> shifter popped out of 2nd and 4th gears three times each. It has done this
> in the past but not so often. It only pops out of gear when coasting or
> going downhill under compression - never under acceleration. Also, the
only
> way I can reliably get my car into 1st gear at a dead stop without
crunching
> is first slip it into 2nd and then slide it up into 1st. Is this a
problem
> or a common issue with these beasts? So (as my neighbor suggests), are my
> syncro gears messed up? If so, what is involved in the fix? Thanks in
> advance guys. Randy Harris
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <CNAArndt@aol.com>
> To: <WilKo@aol.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 8:14 AM
> Subject: Re: Newest Owner - Harrison Ford?!?
>
>
> >
> > In a message dated 07/19/2000 2:00:44 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> WilKo@aol.com
> > writes:
> >
> > << I heard (anecdotally) of Carroll Oconnor (sp) being in a bidding war
> with
> > a
> > Healey owner over a rare hardtop for a BJ8. >>
> >
> > Hi all
> >
> > Carroll O'Conner did indeed have a BRG BJ8 a few years ago (and may
> still),
> > which I saw a few years ago a Randy Cook's shop "Healey Masters' in Los
> > Angeles. It was one of the most original and rust free Healeys that
I've
> > ever seen. I saw the car both assembled and complete and as a bare
> chassis
> > prior to a complete restoration.
> >
> > As the story goes, Randy had known the previous owner for many years and
> had
> > worked on the cars over the years. When Mr. O'Conner purchased the car
> along
> > with every spare available to include a complete spare drivetrain, Randy
> was
> > asked to do a complete ground up restoration on the car. Knowing the
car
> as
> > well as he did, and that it was a virtual Time capsule it was so
original,
> > Randy was very reluctant to completely disassemble the car and destroy
> that
> > originality. Like I said having seen the car all that was needed was a
> > thorough reconditioning of the car.
> >
> > Well anyway, Mr. O'Conner then took the car to one of the premier auto
> > restoration shops in LA to have it done his way! A few months later the
> bare
> > chassis, still with the original paint, was back at Randy's shop.
> Apparently
> > this shop was a very busy place and since they were not Healey experts
and
> > Healey Masters was, Randy was contracted to restore the chassis anyway,
> which
> > he did at a premium I might add.
> >
> > I wish I had gotten some pictures of the bare chassis, as it was truly
one
> of
> > the last of the low mileage, original and undamaged ones.
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Curt Arndt
> >
>
>
>
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 01:13:47 +0100
Subject: I don't get this overdrive thing...
While investigating an intermittent overdrive, I got to thinking about
its operation.
OK, so in third/fourth I can't switch from overdrive to normal without
giving the throttle a bit of welly, to prevent straining the poor thing.
But how come I can drop overdrive when changing from third to second,
when by definition my foot is off the throttle - surely this is counter
to the protection principle that is applied in third/fourth? Is the
stress thing sorted by being in neutral? I thought the engine had to be
'pushing' for the O/D to be unstressed. The gate switch is in series
with the solenoid feed, so there's no clever latching or protection
applied, as there is with the manual switch.
Should I make sure I'm back in normal before going from third to second,
or doesn't it matter?
Alan F Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 20:20:27 -0400
Subject: Re: tranny trouble -advice needed
>
> Randy,
> There may be a little more to your problem than detent balls or syncros. The
> fact that it jumps out of 2nd and 4th tends to indicate to me that there is
> excessive end float in the input or mainshaft. Possibly what is happening is
> that as you lift off the throttle the engagement forks and in effect the gear
> lever are changing position i.e. it will be trying to move further into the
> 2nd or 4th position. This is probably being prevented by the boot, or gearbox
> cover and thus the thing gets pushed out of gear.
To check this get out on a quiet road. Put the car in 2nd gear and then remove
the gear lever. Start off and then on and off the throttle to see if the
problem persists. If it doesn't then end float is probably the problem....Still
have to take the box out but you will have a better idea what you are looking
for. Even if it still does the problem may still be end float in that the
selector rods are reaching the end of their travel.
There is nothing worse thatn pulling a box apart, finding nothing wrong (as far
as you can tell) then putting it back only to have the same problem.
An ounce of diagnosis in worth a pound of cure.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Coop1" <coop1@dnai.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 12:10 PM
> Subject: tranny trouble -advice needed
>
> >
> > Greetings listers
> >
> > I have a problem that needs diagnosis and fix recommendations please. This
> > weekend while stretching my Healey ('66 BJ8) out on the road, the gear
> > shifter popped out of 2nd and 4th gears three times each. It has done this
> > in the past but not so often. It only pops out of gear when coasting or
> > going downhill under compression - never under acceleration. Also, the
> only
> > way I can reliably get my car into 1st gear at a dead stop without
> crunching
> > is first slip it into 2nd and then slide it up into 1st. Is this a
> problem
> > or a common issue with these beasts? So (as my neighbor suggests), are my
> > syncro gears messed up? If so, what is involved in the fix? Thanks in
> > advance guys. Randy Harris
> >
> >
> >
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 20:28:20 -0400
Subject: Re: I don't get this overdrive thing...
Alan,
I think the important thing is that you probably don't change from 3rd to
2nd without using the clutch.
Unloading the gearbox as happens when the clutch is depressed allows the
overdrive to disengage in an unloaded condition without having to accelerate
that great lump of an engine.
Anyway you shouldn't be driving in your wellys, or are you having another of
those summers?
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Alan F Cross wrote:
> While investigating an intermittent overdrive, I got to thinking about
> its operation.
>
> OK, so in third/fourth I can't switch from overdrive to normal without
> giving the throttle a bit of welly, to prevent straining the poor thing.
> But how come I can drop overdrive when changing from third to second,
> when by definition my foot is off the throttle - surely this is counter
> to the protection principle that is applied in third/fourth? Is the
> stress thing sorted by being in neutral? I thought the engine had to be
> 'pushing' for the O/D to be unstressed. The gate switch is in series
> with the solenoid feed, so there's no clever latching or protection
> applied, as there is with the manual switch.
>
> Should I make sure I'm back in normal before going from third to second,
> or doesn't it matter?
>
> Alan F Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
> H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
From JSoderling at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 20:39:11 EDT
Subject: Re: tranny trouble -advice needed
Randy,
Check the article by Norman Nock regarding an interim fix for your tranny
problem in the June 1990 Austin Healey Magazine. He offers a fix by adding wa
shers behind the spring holding the detent balls to increase the pressure on
the detent ball that help hold it in the selected gear. The info is also in
Norman Nock's TECH TALK series which can be purchased from British Car
Specialists, Stockton, CA www.Britishcarspecialists.com
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 20:42:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: Carpets
Black only
---- you wrote:
>
> I am a ways off from this stage, but I am wondering about the Armacord that
> is used to cover the area behind the seats of the two-seater cars. Is it
> available in colors? Maybe I'm just lame, but I don't see it included in
> the descriptions of the seat, panel or carpet kits. I'll be going with
> blue. I've seen Armacord for the trunk area in black only.
> Thanks for the collective wisdom and experience...
> Martin Johnson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
> Sent: Friday, July 21, 2000 12:48 PM
> To: jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Carpets
>
>
>
>
> In a message dated 7/21/00 5:17:28 AM, jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au writes:
>
> << Can anyone advise me of the quality of carpet kits supplied from USA
> suppliers. On e-bay there are currently carpet kits for sale.
>
> Are carpet kits from Moss and others true to originality and quality? >>
>
> I'll let others speak for quality of the regular vendors (my kits came from
> Macgregor and Svilans in Canada and were pricey, were made to my order, and
> took a long time to get, but were very well done and were made up in Wilton
> wool).
>
> As for originality, no body is making original spec carpets anymore, since
> only one supplier is using the original material, which was a thin-pile
> Karvel "hogs-hair" wool/poly blend and theirs are the wrong colors.
> Original
> carpets also were distinguishable because their backing was made of woven
> jute, very similar in appearance to burlap. Also, original carpets did not
> have bound edges, except around the gear shift opening and hand brake
> opening.
>
> If I were doing it all over, I'd still opt for a 100 percent wool carpet
> rather than the blends that are available. You do want to stay away from
> the
> really cheap kits -- they're almost always made up of 100 percent synthetic
> and they scream cheap, Cheap, CHEAP.
>
> You'll have to find someone else who's recently bought from Moss, Healey
> Surgeons, British Car Specialists, or other sources. (I believe each of the
>
> three I listed has their carpets cut and edged by their own suppliers.
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 20:57:06 EDT
Subject: Machinist needed
Well, the restoration has reached the engine and transmission stage. So I
will be needing the services of a good machinist. I am in southern NJ and I
know of two places that I trust, however one is booked up for at least 6
months(and they do mostly chevy's and ford's). The other does Ferrari and
Formula Atlantic engines (as well as anything else high tech/dollar), so I
will pay a premium premium there...but it will be perfect. Does anyone know
of an experienced shop that has done some Healey engines nearby? I won't be
shipping this lump anywhere!
Thanks.
Chris
BJ8...less than 10000 pieces now!!
XJ6
From JustBrits at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 22:07:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Carpets
In a message dated 07/24/2000 7:44:00 PM Central Daylight Time,
dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<<
Black only
---- you wrote:
>
> I am a ways off from this stage, but I am wondering about the Armacord that
> is used to cover the area behind the seats of the two-seater cars. >>
Sorry, Dick, NOT!!
Kinda like "...how fast do you wanna go, how much do you wanna spend...?"
Cheers............
Ed (currently knowing where a 'bolt' of Red is <smirk>)
From "Coop1 at DNAI" <coop1@dnai.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 19:16:06 -0700
Subject: Thanks for all your tranny help
Well, I now know that:
1. I need a complete re-build, 2. I don't need a tranny re-build, 3. I may
need a partial re-build, 4. It's probably an annoyance but nothing to loose
sleep over, 5. I better start saving cause I got a big one commin' , 6. Lots
of Healey's out there with the same problem.
I downloaded every response, understood about 10% of what I read. So, I
printed them out and will hand the stack of emails to my mechanic and let
him figure it all out. Thanks everyone for being so responsive. Again, tis
a hell of a list... Randy
From "Coop1 at DNAI" <coop1@dnai.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 19:44:58 -0700
Subject: Healey tutor/mentor challenge
Having been a guitar player for almost 30 years, I decided 3 years ago that
I wanted to learn to design and build acoustic guitars. Not having any
basic woodworking skills I figured my desire was a bit of middle aged whimsy
but "nothing ventured, nothing gained" so what the hell.... I contacted a
world renouned master luthier on the East Coast and asked him if he would
spend two weeks with me, one on one, and teach me how to build an acoustic
guitar in his shop in Massachusetts. He agreed (for a fee of course). I
flew to Mass and worked my ass off for 16 12-hour days. The net affect was
a gorgeous hand built acoustic guitar. It's 2 years later and I am on #08
and have accepted a total of 10 commissions. What does this have to do
with an Austin Healey you ask?
Since acquiring my '66 BJ8 earlier this year, I have bothered this group
with at least 4 technical and non technical questions. It has occured to me
that the answers would make a heck of a lot more sense if I had more general
Healey knowledge and automotive mechanical skills. I suppose I could simply
pay to have something fixed every time it needs it, but I really want to
have a deeper connection with the car than that.
I would like to find someone in the Oakland/East Bay area of Northern
California who would be willing to work with a virtual novice to give me a
better understanding of how my car works. I don't want to become a wrench
but I would like to be able to confidently diagnose and conduct roadside
repairs and basic maintenance and maybe a bit of restoration. I would like
to truly understand the answers to the questions I ask. I already belong to
clubs and plan to attend as many tech sessions as time allows. That's
really not what I'm talking about here though. I'm seeking out a teacher -
someone who loves the Healeys and one who can work with me, one on one, to
give me a better understanding of the car and how it works. I can pay for
that person's time. I'm a quick study and capable of intense learning
sessions. So, is there anyone in my neck of the woods interested in a
different kind of challenge? Let me know...... Randy aka Coop
From HealeyHey at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 23:20:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey tutor/mentor challenge II
Amen!
I've been championing the cause of "Pass on the Knowledge - Before You Pass
On" for quite a while. In my travels, I've found quite a few Healey
technicians in and around the L.A area - Everything in the spectrum from your
prima donna assholes, all-in-one British mechanics, and out of work hobbyist
to some very genuine souls devoted to keeping the marque alive & passing the
torch to a younger generation.
In my humble opinion, the Healey list, by far is the BEST place for
answers!!! I can't even begin to mention the amount of money and headaches
I've avoided by simply taking advantage of email on the list and previous
mail stored in the archives. But yet, I long for the hands on - this is how
you do it school of instruction (I'm a visual creature).
What does my experience (thus far) tell me. Keep on pushing, eventually
you'll hook up with some cat with thick grey hair growing out of is ears,
prickly personality, a garage full of memories and a brain sharp as a knife &
full of knowledge - Ya' know like Pat Morita in the Karate Kid.
Anyways, that's the kind of cat I'm looking for - If you're out there in the
L.A area drop me an email offline. All the free beer, diet Pepsi, classic
rock, nachos, shameless adulation, hot dogs, eskimo pies, pesky converation
and Directv you can handle on the weekends.
Alfred Haymond
By way of Los Angeles
62' BT7 Tri-Carb (Doing what "they" said couldn't be done)
From CIAG6 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 23:30:04 EDT
Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
In a message dated 7/24/00 11:57:52 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
frogeye@gateway.net writes:
<< Well my day in court was today. I must admit that it was worth the wait and
the time spent preparing my defense. I left the court with a dismissal. No
points, no fines,nada. God bless America and Paynofine.com and this list for
the radar education.
>>
Or, maybe you just got the standard treatment for a first offense marginal
case. Happens all the time. Next time you'll be a repeat offender and
you'll be worth socking it to.
Ray G
From Jhayspu at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 00:07:11 EDT
Subject: Brake fluid question
BT7 in shop, mechanic installs rear brake flex hose, bleeds brakes, adds
DOT-4 to silicone brake fluid. What do I do now? I don't think this stuff
mixes.
Jerry
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 23:30:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey tutor/mentor challenge II
That was about the best post I have read on this List in the Last Year....
if you were in Lower Alabama.... I would absolutely Hold your Hand and teach
you the basic's.... I agree that this list is Great... but the willingness
to learn and the ability to Pay for the knowledge is an outstanding offer...
I bet/ hope someone takes you up on it.... if it was Me I would charge you
out the Butt.... then not take your money... you can't buy sincerity ....
Thanks for sharing the Music....
Keith Turk...( Hey the camaro is in Hot Rod this Month... Sept issue came
out today...)
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyHey@aol.com>
To: <coop1@dnai.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 10:20 PM
Subject: Re: Healey tutor/mentor challenge II
>
> Amen!
>
> I've been championing the cause of "Pass on the Knowledge - Before You
Pass
> On" for quite a while. In my travels, I've found quite a few Healey
> technicians in and around the L.A area - Everything in the spectrum from
your
> prima donna assholes, all-in-one British mechanics, and out of work
hobbyist
> to some very genuine souls devoted to keeping the marque alive & passing
the
> torch to a younger generation.
>
> In my humble opinion, the Healey list, by far is the BEST place for
> answers!!! I can't even begin to mention the amount of money and headaches
> I've avoided by simply taking advantage of email on the list and previous
> mail stored in the archives. But yet, I long for the hands on - this is
how
> you do it school of instruction (I'm a visual creature).
>
> What does my experience (thus far) tell me. Keep on pushing, eventually
> you'll hook up with some cat with thick grey hair growing out of is ears,
> prickly personality, a garage full of memories and a brain sharp as a
knife &
> full of knowledge - Ya' know like Pat Morita in the Karate Kid.
>
> Anyways, that's the kind of cat I'm looking for - If you're out there in
the
> L.A area drop me an email offline. All the free beer, diet Pepsi, classic
> rock, nachos, shameless adulation, hot dogs, eskimo pies, pesky
converation
> and Directv you can handle on the weekends.
>
> Alfred Haymond
> By way of Los Angeles
> 62' BT7 Tri-Carb (Doing what "they" said couldn't be done)
>
From JustBrits at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 01:28:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake fluid question
In a message dated 07/24/2000 11:10:35 PM Central Daylight Time,
Jhayspu@aol.com writes:
<< mechanic >>
MAJOR misnomer.
<<installs rear brake flex hose, bleeds brakes, adds
DOT-4 to silicone brake fluid.>>
Yessir, REAL "major misnomer!!
<< What do I do now? >>
FULL "FLUSH" with GT/LMA and "MAYBE" you'll get lucky, Jerry.
About 3 QUARTS may do it.
<< I don't think this stuff mixes. >>
Nope.
Charge back you Time and Materials, hire a Lawyer, ot just ask "The Idiot" to
do the job gratis WHILST you observe.
(er?) Cheers...........
Ed
PS: Doing a hose. bleed and re-fill is NOT "rocket science". Next time,
either do it yourself, or find a "mech......................."! Nope, can't
finish it.
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 01:34:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Wiring Harness
In a message dated 7/23/00 1:51:20 PM, dht@erols.com writes:
<<
I'm installing a new harness and need to know the routing of the harness
across the front of the car to the blower.
Dean >>
what model, and what are you referring to when you mention the "blower."
Would need that info to help you.
Cheers
Gary
From Dbarndt at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 20:19:27 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Parts needed
does any one have the parts for a healey 67 ,3000 mk3 that they want to
sell
1 spindle accelerator
2 bracket
3 bracket reinforcement
4 control rod spindle lever to carb
5 lever accelerator spindle
can be contacted by dbarndt @aol.com or the telephone 303 805 2895
Thank you.
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 01:52:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Carpets
In a message dated 7/24/00 2:59:49 PM, MJohnson@cfworks.com writes:
<< I am a ways off from this stage, but I am wondering about the Armacord that
is used to cover the area behind the seats of the two-seater cars. Is it
available in colors? Maybe I'm just lame, but I don't see it included in
the descriptions of the seat, panel or carpet kits. I'll be going with
blue. I've seen Armacord for the trunk area in black only.
Thanks for the collective wisdom and experience... >>
To my knowledge, it's only available in black. The only solution is to buy
it (Healey Surgeons, for one, has been selling it by the yard) and have a
good trim shop dye it to match your vinyl, and then bind it for you. If
possible, find a car that can be copied.
Cheers
Gary
From ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit at juno.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 07:21:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake fluid question
Flush system immediately and use Girling LMA....use silicon only for
chips, caulk and upon spark wire leads.
R Kirk
On Tue, 25 Jul 2000 00:07:11 EDT Jhayspu@aol.com writes:
>
> BT7 in shop, mechanic installs rear brake flex hose, bleeds brakes,
> adds
> DOT-4 to silicone brake fluid. What do I do now? I don't think
> this stuff
> mixes.
>
> Jerry
From "DHT" <dht at erols.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 08:40:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey tutor/mentor challenge II
I also agree with you If you were in my area I would love to help you
and I never take a dime. It would be my pleasure.
Dean
> That was about the best post I have read on this List in the Last Year....
>
> if you were in Lower Alabama.... I would absolutely Hold your Hand and
teach
> you the basic's.... I agree that this list is Great... but the
willingness
> to learn and the ability to Pay for the knowledge is an outstanding
offer...
>
> I bet/ hope someone takes you up on it.... if it was Me I would charge you
> out the Butt.... then not take your money... you can't buy sincerity ....
> Thanks for sharing the Music....
>
> Keith Turk...( Hey the camaro is in Hot Rod this Month... Sept issue came
> out today...)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <HealeyHey@aol.com>
> To: <coop1@dnai.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 10:20 PM
> Subject: Re: Healey tutor/mentor challenge II
>
>
> >
> > Amen!
> >
> > I've been championing the cause of "Pass on the Knowledge - Before You
> Pass
> > On" for quite a while. In my travels, I've found quite a few Healey
> > technicians in and around the L.A area - Everything in the spectrum from
> your
> > prima donna assholes, all-in-one British mechanics, and out of work
> hobbyist
> > to some very genuine souls devoted to keeping the marque alive & passing
> the
> > torch to a younger generation.
> >
> > In my humble opinion, the Healey list, by far is the BEST place for
> > answers!!! I can't even begin to mention the amount of money and
headaches
> > I've avoided by simply taking advantage of email on the list and
previous
> > mail stored in the archives. But yet, I long for the hands on - this is
> how
> > you do it school of instruction (I'm a visual creature).
> >
> > What does my experience (thus far) tell me. Keep on pushing, eventually
> > you'll hook up with some cat with thick grey hair growing out of is
ears,
> > prickly personality, a garage full of memories and a brain sharp as a
> knife &
> > full of knowledge - Ya' know like Pat Morita in the Karate Kid.
> >
> > Anyways, that's the kind of cat I'm looking for - If you're out there in
> the
> > L.A area drop me an email offline. All the free beer, diet Pepsi,
classic
> > rock, nachos, shameless adulation, hot dogs, eskimo pies, pesky
> converation
> > and Directv you can handle on the weekends.
> >
> > Alfred Haymond
> > By way of Los Angeles
> > 62' BT7 Tri-Carb (Doing what "they" said couldn't be done)
> >
>
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 07:18:02 -0600
Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
rons,
The charge was 68MPH in a 55MPH zone.
The defense was to have the officer explain his training, the operation of
radar, the possible interfering conditions, the calibration of his unit
(including his calibration logs), and yes he was there. In essence he was
unable to to explain what he was taught, the factors that influence false
readings, nor was he able to produce his calibration log.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "rons" <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2000 10:08 AM
Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
>
> So, what were you charged with, what was your defense and was the officer
> who wrote the ticket in the courtroom?
>
> ----------
> >From: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
> >To: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>, <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
> >Date: Mon, Jul 24, 2000, 10:09 PM
> >
>
> >
> > NO. I was absolutely going the posted speed of 55. Otherwise I would
have
> > accepted the "states" offer of driving school and court costs.
> > Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> > 59 AH :{) 54 BN1
> >
> > Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> >
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>
> > To: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 2:01 PM
> > Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
> >
> >
> >> Dave, just between you and the listers, were you speeding?
> >> Rayfixitanddriveitand watch yourspeedFeehan.
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: frogeye <frogeye@gateway.net>
> >> To: Healeys@autox.team.net <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> >> Date: Monday, July 24, 2000 1:53 PM
> >> Subject: follow up on" radar and assholism"
> >>
> >>
> >> >
> >> >Greetings listers,
> >> > 51 days ago I asked for usable defense strategies to overcome a radar
> >> >speeding ticket.
> >> > Well my day in court was today. I must admit that it was worth the
wait
> >> and
> >> >the time spent preparing my defense. I left the court with a
dismissal.
> > No
> >> >points, no fines,nada. God bless America and Paynofine.com and this
list
> >> for
> >> >the radar education.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> >> >59 AH :{) 54 BN1
> >> >
> >> >Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> >>
>
>>http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
>
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 07:39:42 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey tutor/mentor challenge II
Like my ole pappy usta say " Live and learn, die and forget it
all.........."
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyHey@aol.com>
To: <coop1@dnai.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 9:20 PM
Subject: Re: Healey tutor/mentor challenge II
>
> Amen!
>
> I've been championing the cause of "Pass on the Knowledge - Before You
Pass
> On" for quite a while. In my travels, I've found quite a few Healey
> technicians in and around the L.A area - Everything in the spectrum from
your
> prima donna assholes, all-in-one British mechanics, and out of work
hobbyist
> to some very genuine souls devoted to keeping the marque alive & passing
the
> torch to a younger generation.
>
> In my humble opinion, the Healey list, by far is the BEST place for
> answers!!! I can't even begin to mention the amount of money and headaches
> I've avoided by simply taking advantage of email on the list and previous
> mail stored in the archives. But yet, I long for the hands on - this is
how
> you do it school of instruction (I'm a visual creature).
>
> What does my experience (thus far) tell me. Keep on pushing, eventually
> you'll hook up with some cat with thick grey hair growing out of is ears,
> prickly personality, a garage full of memories and a brain sharp as a
knife &
> full of knowledge - Ya' know like Pat Morita in the Karate Kid.
>
> Anyways, that's the kind of cat I'm looking for - If you're out there in
the
> L.A area drop me an email offline. All the free beer, diet Pepsi, classic
> rock, nachos, shameless adulation, hot dogs, eskimo pies, pesky
converation
> and Directv you can handle on the weekends.
>
> Alfred Haymond
> By way of Los Angeles
> 62' BT7 Tri-Carb (Doing what "they" said couldn't be done)
>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 09:36:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake fluid question
Hear , hear......
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
ROBERT KIRK wrote:
> Flush system immediately and use Girling LMA....use silicon only for
> chips, caulk and upon spark wire leads.
> R Kirk
>
> On Tue, 25 Jul 2000 00:07:11 EDT Jhayspu@aol.com writes:
> >
> > BT7 in shop, mechanic installs rear brake flex hose, bleeds brakes,
> > adds
> > DOT-4 to silicone brake fluid. What do I do now? I don't think
> > this stuff
> > mixes.
> >
> > Jerry
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 10:32:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake fluid question
I don't know what you had originally was, nor whether the combination is
necessarily bad; however, my mentors tell me that Castrol brake fluid is the
ONLY stuff to use since it is absorbs much less water than all the others.
You could drain the system and refill with Castrol brake fluid to be
perfectly safe.
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 08:48:19 +0000
Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
No, as some lister suggested, I'm not a lawyer, a cop or a judge. I only
wanted to know the details so, if necessasry, I could 'shorthand' your
defense in anticipation of having to use it myself. Sounds good to me. One
final question: did you act as our own attorney?
----------
>From: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
>To: "rons" <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>, <Healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
>Date: Tue, Jul 25, 2000, 1:18 PM
>
> <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 08:29:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Brake fluid question
Somehow I have a feeling that this question may start an avalanche, but
here goes:
What are the relative strengths and weaknesses of silicone vs. non-slicone
brake fluid, and why (i.e. tech knowledge ar links to tech articles)?
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
Michael Salter wrote:
> Hear , hear......
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
> ROBERT KIRK wrote:
>
> > Flush system immediately and use Girling LMA....use silicon only for
> > chips, caulk and upon spark wire leads.
> > R Kirk
> >
> > On Tue, 25 Jul 2000 00:07:11 EDT Jhayspu@aol.com writes:
> > >
> > > BT7 in shop, mechanic installs rear brake flex hose, bleeds brakes,
> > > adds
> > > DOT-4 to silicone brake fluid. What do I do now? I don't think
> > > this stuff
> > > mixes.
> > >
> > > Jerry
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 09:55:39 -0600
Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
rons,
yes, acted as my own attorney. Check out paynofine.com it's excellent.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "rons" <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 2:48 AM
Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
>
> No, as some lister suggested, I'm not a lawyer, a cop or a judge. I only
> wanted to know the details so, if necessasry, I could 'shorthand' your
> defense in anticipation of having to use it myself. Sounds good to me. One
> final question: did you act as our own attorney?
>
> ----------
> >From: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
> >To: "rons" <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>, <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
> >Date: Tue, Jul 25, 2000, 1:18 PM
> >
>
> > <Healeys@autox.team.net>
>
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 09:06:54 -0700
Subject: RE: Brake fluid question
If your system is silicone, don't flush and refill with LMA or all your
seals might shrink up(might take a few months though). Flush and refill with
silicone.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 12:19:49 -0400
Subject: RE: Brake fluid question
non silicone brake fluids are anhydrous, meaning they absorb water, which
results in corrosion.
-----Original Message-----
From: P.M. Pollock [mailto:pollpete@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 11:29 AM
To: Michael Salter
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: Brake fluid question
Somehow I have a feeling that this question may start an avalanche, but
here goes:
What are the relative strengths and weaknesses of silicone vs. non-slicone
brake fluid, and why (i.e. tech knowledge ar links to tech articles)?
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
Michael Salter wrote:
> Hear , hear......
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
> ROBERT KIRK wrote:
>
> > Flush system immediately and use Girling LMA....use silicon only for
> > chips, caulk and upon spark wire leads.
> > R Kirk
> >
> > On Tue, 25 Jul 2000 00:07:11 EDT Jhayspu@aol.com writes:
> > >
> > > BT7 in shop, mechanic installs rear brake flex hose, bleeds brakes,
> > > adds
> > > DOT-4 to silicone brake fluid. What do I do now? I don't think
> > > this stuff
> > > mixes.
> > >
> > > Jerry
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 12:20:53 -0400
Subject: RE: follow up on" radar and assholism"
a pretty girl in a short dress is usually all you need to get out of a
ticket
-----Original Message-----
From: rons [mailto:arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 4:48 AM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
No, as some lister suggested, I'm not a lawyer, a cop or a judge. I only
wanted to know the details so, if necessasry, I could 'shorthand' your
defense in anticipation of having to use it myself. Sounds good to me. One
final question: did you act as our own attorney?
----------
>From: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
>To: "rons" <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>, <Healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
>Date: Tue, Jul 25, 2000, 1:18 PM
>
> <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 11:19:04 -0500
Subject: Re: I don't get this overdrive thing...
Hi Mike,
Ditto your remarks on shifting from third overdrive to second. Without
the throttle switch, if you take your foot off the throttle at high revs in
third gear, then switch off the overdrive, the rear wheels will slow down so
rapidly, they will 'lock up', potentially causing some very dangerous
situations on curves or in the wet. Not to mention the massive reverse
torque load on the cone clutch. My MGB/GT has no such device, and I make a
point of 'dipping' the clutch (pushing it about halfway down) when
simultaneously decelerating and switching out of overdrive, a practice that
was once common practice in Britain, and makes for seamless downshifts from
overdrive to direct drive.---Peter (BMC Restorations)
-----Original Message-----
From: Krazy Kiwi <magicare@home.com>
To: Alan F Cross <AlanX@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, July 24, 2000 7:58 PM
Subject: Re: I don't get this overdrive thing...
Alan,
I think the important thing is that you probably don't change from 3rd
to
2nd without using the clutch.
Unloading the gearbox as happens when the clutch is depressed allows the
overdrive to disengage in an unloaded condition without having to
accelerate
that great lump of an engine.
Anyway you shouldn't be driving in your wellys, or are you having
another of
those summers?
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Alan F Cross wrote:
> While investigating an intermittent overdrive, I got to thinking about
> its operation.
>
> OK, so in third/fourth I can't switch from overdrive to normal without
> giving the throttle a bit of welly, to prevent straining the poor
thing.
> But how come I can drop overdrive when changing from third to second,
> when by definition my foot is off the throttle - surely this is
counter
> to the protection principle that is applied in third/fourth? Is the
> stress thing sorted by being in neutral? I thought the engine had to
be
> 'pushing' for the O/D to be unstressed. The gate switch is in series
> with the solenoid feed, so there's no clever latching or protection
> applied, as there is with the manual switch.
>
> Should I make sure I'm back in normal before going from third to
second,
> or doesn't it matter?
>
> Alan F Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
> H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 11:01:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Thanks for all your tranny help
Hi Randy,
If you rebuild it sooner rather than later, you will minimize further
damage. Whatever you do, DON'T make a habit of holding the gear lever back
to keep it in gear as that will wear the shift forks, which are expensive to
buy (if you can find them) and difficult to repair. Besides, that is likely
what got it to this point. If you do tear it down, make sure the gear end
floats are correct, and that the input shaft bearing has enough shims to
keep it as far 'back' in the case as possible (these often are damaged or
missing). The same goes for 'forward' location of the output shaft. Replace
the detent balls and springs in the selector hubs, and also on the selector
rods. Inspect the shift fork rods where the detent ball sits. If the ramp is
worn right down into the notch, so that the ramp is less steep, consider
having a machine shop weld the worn spot and re-machine. Lastly, check your
shift forks carefully, you can usually see a step between the original
machined surfaces and where the gear has been riding. Replace with a
'better' used one if the step is extreme, or see if a local machine shop can
braze and re-machine it. If you take the necessary care, there is no reason
to "live with it." Hope this helps.---Peter (BMC Restorations)
-----Original Message-----
From: Coop1@DNAI <coop1@dnai.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, July 24, 2000 9:39 PM
Subject: Thanks for all your tranny help
Well, I now know that:
1. I need a complete re-build, 2. I don't need a tranny re-build, 3. I
may
need a partial re-build, 4. It's probably an annoyance but nothing to
loose
sleep over, 5. I better start saving cause I got a big one commin' , 6.
Lots
of Healey's out there with the same problem.
I downloaded every response, understood about 10% of what I read. So, I
printed them out and will hand the stack of emails to my mechanic and
let
him figure it all out. Thanks everyone for being so responsive. Again,
tis
a hell of a list... Randy
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 09:27:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey tutor/mentor challenge II
Thanks Keith, and everyone else who responded so quickly, for the
encouragement to pursue this rather unorthodox form of self improvement. I
only wish I had taken auto shop back in '65 instead of marching band. If I
had, I could work on a carburator now instead of a trumpet :>)
My offer stands: Tell your friends and their friends and their fr.... well,
you get the idea. Doofus BJ8 owner seeks knowledgable teacher one or two
Saturdays a month in the Bay Area to learn basics of Healey repair and
maintenance. Will pay for time and supply food and drink. Such a deal!
Coop
> That was about the best post I have read on this List in the Last Year....
> if you were in Lower Alabama.... I would absolutely Hold your Hand and
>teach you the basic's.... I agree that this list is Great... but the
willingness to learn and the ability to Pay for the knowledge is an
outstanding offer...
>
> I bet/ hope someone takes you up on it.... if it was Me I would charge you
> out the Butt.... then not take your money... you can't buy sincerity ....
> Thanks for sharing the Music....
>
> Keith Turk...( Hey the camaro is in Hot Rod this Month... Sept issue came
> out today...)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <HealeyHey@aol.com>
> To: <coop1@dnai.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 10:20 PM
> Subject: Re: Healey tutor/mentor challenge II
>
>
> >
> > Amen!
> >
> > I've been championing the cause of "Pass on the Knowledge - Before You
> Pass
> > On" for quite a while. In my travels, I've found quite a few Healey
> > technicians in and around the L.A area - Everything in the spectrum from
> your
> > prima donna assholes, all-in-one British mechanics, and out of work
> hobbyist
> > to some very genuine souls devoted to keeping the marque alive & passing
> the
> > torch to a younger generation.
> >
> > In my humble opinion, the Healey list, by far is the BEST place for
> > answers!!! I can't even begin to mention the amount of money and
headaches
> > I've avoided by simply taking advantage of email on the list and
previous
> > mail stored in the archives. But yet, I long for the hands on - this is
> how
> > you do it school of instruction (I'm a visual creature).
> >
> > What does my experience (thus far) tell me. Keep on pushing, eventually
> > you'll hook up with some cat with thick grey hair growing out of is
ears,
> > prickly personality, a garage full of memories and a brain sharp as a
> knife &
> > full of knowledge - Ya' know like Pat Morita in the Karate Kid.
> >
> > Anyways, that's the kind of cat I'm looking for - If you're out there in
> the
> > L.A area drop me an email offline. All the free beer, diet Pepsi,
classic
> > rock, nachos, shameless adulation, hot dogs, eskimo pies, pesky
> converation
> > and Directv you can handle on the weekends.
> >
> > Alfred Haymond
> > By way of Los Angeles
> > 62' BT7 Tri-Carb (Doing what "they" said couldn't be done)
> >
>
>
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 12:34:50 -0400
Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
>a pretty girl in a short dress is usually all you need to get out of a
>ticket
>
And just how do I change my fat, bald, personae into that???
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 11:51:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey tutor/mentor challenge II
Your thoughts aren't unorthodox at all.... I used the same technique to
learn how to Paint cars..
Walked up to an older fella who did the Best work in town... and basically
complimented his work.. told him that I would love to learn his Trade and
would love to learn from a MASTER.... he bent over Backwards to teach me.
Hell now that I think about it... I started Mechanizing for a Fella Named
Ken Young... who was a Master Mechanic and still even after his Death the
Indian Four Cylinder motorcycles are sought after as collectors items...
Now on to the Marching Band issue.... Auto Shop has LOTS more Boys then
Girls.... so getting Bred in Auto Shop was a Losing Proposition... I was
Blessed with Gary Densham as a Teacher ( currently Champaining a Top Fuel
Funny Car )...... As for Band.... well.... Now if you had been in the Wind
Section instead of the Brass... you would have been even closer to the
Girls available.... ( ahhh yeah I employed this Technique and Married her )
I mentioned the Not Charging because I hate this side of our Hobby.... you
might get farther by talking about replacing a Part of someone's beloved
car that they simply don't have the Money for.... Just a Thought..
Keith Turk....( #462 the So Al Special.... Bonneville Land Speed Racer )
and way to many Damn Healey's..... BUT NEVER FOR SALE...)
----------
> From: Coop1 <coop1@dnai.com>
> To: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net>; HealeyHey@aol.com
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Healey tutor/mentor challenge II
> Date: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 11:27 AM
>
> Thanks Keith, and everyone else who responded so quickly, for the
> encouragement to pursue this rather unorthodox form of self improvement.
I
> only wish I had taken auto shop back in '65 instead of marching band. If
I
> had, I could work on a carburator now instead of a trumpet :>)
>
> My offer stands: Tell your friends and their friends and their fr....
well,
> you get the idea. Doofus BJ8 owner seeks knowledgable teacher one or two
> Saturdays a month in the Bay Area to learn basics of Healey repair and
> maintenance. Will pay for time and supply food and drink. Such a deal!
> Coop
>
> > That was about the best post I have read on this List in the Last
Year....
> > if you were in Lower Alabama.... I would absolutely Hold your Hand and
> >teach you the basic's.... I agree that this list is Great... but the
> willingness to learn and the ability to Pay for the knowledge is an
> outstanding offer...
> >
> > I bet/ hope someone takes you up on it.... if it was Me I would charge
you
> > out the Butt.... then not take your money... you can't buy sincerity
...
> > Thanks for sharing the Music....
> >
> > Keith Turk...( Hey the camaro is in Hot Rod this Month... Sept issue
came
> > out today...)
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <HealeyHey@aol.com>
> > To: <coop1@dnai.com>
> > Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 10:20 PM
> > Subject: Re: Healey tutor/mentor challenge II
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Amen!
> > >
> > > I've been championing the cause of "Pass on the Knowledge - Before
You
> > Pass
> > > On" for quite a while. In my travels, I've found quite a few Healey
> > > technicians in and around the L.A area - Everything in the spectrum
from
> > your
> > > prima donna assholes, all-in-one British mechanics, and out of work
> > hobbyist
> > > to some very genuine souls devoted to keeping the marque alive &
passing
> > the
> > > torch to a younger generation.
> > >
> > > In my humble opinion, the Healey list, by far is the BEST place for
> > > answers!!! I can't even begin to mention the amount of money and
> headaches
> > > I've avoided by simply taking advantage of email on the list and
> previous
> > > mail stored in the archives. But yet, I long for the hands on - this
is
> > how
> > > you do it school of instruction (I'm a visual creature).
> > >
> > > What does my experience (thus far) tell me. Keep on pushing,
eventually
> > > you'll hook up with some cat with thick grey hair growing out of is
> ears,
> > > prickly personality, a garage full of memories and a brain sharp as a
> > knife &
> > > full of knowledge - Ya' know like Pat Morita in the Karate Kid.
> > >
> > > Anyways, that's the kind of cat I'm looking for - If you're out there
in
> > the
> > > L.A area drop me an email offline. All the free beer, diet Pepsi,
> classic
> > > rock, nachos, shameless adulation, hot dogs, eskimo pies, pesky
> > converation
> > > and Directv you can handle on the weekends.
> > >
> > > Alfred Haymond
> > > By way of Los Angeles
> > > 62' BT7 Tri-Carb (Doing what "they" said couldn't be done)
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
From "Robin Astle" <rastle at freenet.co.uk>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 18:02:45 +0100
Subject: radar and assholism
The charge was 68MPH in a 55MPH zone.
I vaguely remember a case many years ago where a Lotus Elan was given a
ticket for a similar speeding infringement. The defence was that the fibre
glass Lotus with it's sloping surfaces gave a poor radar reflection, whilst
the ears on the knock-ons were capable of reflecting the signal. At 55mph
the tip of the knock-on will be doing about 68mph at the top of it's travel
and the radar gun may record the higher speed. It's so many years ago
though, and I can't remember the outcome.
Robin Astle.
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 13:15:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey tutor/mentor challenge II
Coop et al -
Back in 60-65 they didn't even have autoshop where I lived!
I'm up for some Healey mentoring also. Two years ago I took a course in
building an acoustic guitar. I had a great time and built a nice
instrument. My best compliment occurred when I took it out of the case to
show my son. He replied, "Bull shit Dad! You didn't do this!" My original
instructor became a mentor to my continuing efforts and I try and repay him
with sailing opportunities and assisting when he does classes. Good deal
for the both of us...
So anybody in the DC Metropolitan area wnat to trade some Healey mentoring
for sailing lessons, boat surveys, or a marine diesel engine seminar, I'm up
for it.
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
>Thanks Keith, and everyone else who responded so quickly, for the
>encouragement to pursue this rather unorthodox form of self improvement. I
>only wish I had taken auto shop back in '65 instead of marching band. If I
>had, I could work on a carburator now instead of a trumpet :>)
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 13:23:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
Rest assured you, your car, and all the details of your defense went up in the
locker room that afternoon.
If I were you I'd shave my moustache and do all my driving in that region in an
86 Cutlass from now on - at five Under, and make sure all the bulbs are burning
and use your turn signals.
<big G>
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> rons,
> The charge was 68MPH in a 55MPH zone.
> The defense was to have the officer explain his training, the operation of
> radar, the possible interfering conditions, the calibration of his unit
> (including his calibration logs), and yes he was there. In essence he was
> unable to to explain what he was taught, the factors that influence false
> readings, nor was he able to produce his calibration log.
> Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> 59 AH :{) 54 BN1
>
> Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "rons" <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>
> To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2000 10:08 AM
> Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
>
>
> >
> > So, what were you charged with, what was your defense and was the officer
> > who wrote the ticket in the courtroom?
> >
> > ----------
> > >From: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
> > >To: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>, <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> > >Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
> > >Date: Mon, Jul 24, 2000, 10:09 PM
> > >
> >
> > >
> > > NO. I was absolutely going the posted speed of 55. Otherwise I would
> have
> > > accepted the "states" offer of driving school and court costs.
> > > Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> > > 59 AH :{) 54 BN1
> > >
> > > Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> > >
> http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>
> > > To: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 2:01 PM
> > > Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
> > >
> > >
> > >> Dave, just between you and the listers, were you speeding?
> > >> Rayfixitanddriveitand watch yourspeedFeehan.
> > >> -----Original Message-----
> > >> From: frogeye <frogeye@gateway.net>
> > >> To: Healeys@autox.team.net <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> > >> Date: Monday, July 24, 2000 1:53 PM
> > >> Subject: follow up on" radar and assholism"
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> >
> > >> >Greetings listers,
> > >> > 51 days ago I asked for usable defense strategies to overcome a radar
> > >> >speeding ticket.
> > >> > Well my day in court was today. I must admit that it was worth the
> wait
> > >> and
> > >> >the time spent preparing my defense. I left the court with a
> dismissal.
> > > No
> > >> >points, no fines,nada. God bless America and Paynofine.com and this
> list
> > >> for
> > >> >the radar education.
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> > >> >59 AH :{) 54 BN1
> > >> >
> > >> >Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> > >>
> >
> >>http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> >
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From JPierce <jpierce at enol.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 11:23:16 -0600
Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
I believe the term to use here is "alleged". He already stated he was driving
the
posted speed limit. Why would you assume he wasn't?.........ahhhh.....guilty
until proven innocent. You must be a cop.
Jeff
CIAG6@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 7/24/00 11:57:52 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
> frogeye@gateway.net writes:
>
> << Well my day in court was today. I must admit that it was worth the wait and
> the time spent preparing my defense. I left the court with a dismissal. No
> points, no fines,nada. God bless America and Paynofine.com and this list for
> the radar education.
> >>
>
> Or, maybe you just got the standard treatment for a first offense marginal
> case. Happens all the time. Next time you'll be a repeat offender and
> you'll be worth socking it to.
>
> Ray G
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 11:33:47 -0600
Subject: Re: radar and assholism
I'll add that to the 3 sided corners for the next go around. Thanks. dp
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Astle" <rastle@freenet.co.uk>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 11:02 AM
Subject: radar and assholism
>
> The charge was 68MPH in a 55MPH zone.
> I vaguely remember a case many years ago where a Lotus Elan was given a
> ticket for a similar speeding infringement. The defence was that the
fibre
> glass Lotus with it's sloping surfaces gave a poor radar reflection,
whilst
> the ears on the knock-ons were capable of reflecting the signal. At 55mph
> the tip of the knock-on will be doing about 68mph at the top of it's
travel
> and the radar gun may record the higher speed. It's so many years ago
> though, and I can't remember the outcome.
>
> Robin Astle.
>
>
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 11:37:46 -0600
Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
Dick,
Regrettably, that is probably exactly what will happen, too bad as it is a
pleasant 2 lane that's close to town and great for sunset drives........
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>; "austin healey list"
<healeys@autox.team.net>; "Ronald J. Somers" <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>;
"Ronald J. Somers" <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
> Rest assured you, your car, and all the details of your defense went up in
the locker room that afternoon.
>
> If I were you I'd shave my moustache and do all my driving in that region
in an 86 Cutlass from now on - at five Under, and make sure all the bulbs
are burning and use your turn signals.
>
> <big G>
>
> DickB
>
>
> ---- you wrote:
> >
> > rons,
> > The charge was 68MPH in a 55MPH zone.
> > The defense was to have the officer explain his training, the operation
of
> > radar, the possible interfering conditions, the calibration of his unit
> > (including his calibration logs), and yes he was there. In essence he
was
> > unable to to explain what he was taught, the factors that influence
false
> > readings, nor was he able to produce his calibration log.
> > Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> > 59 AH :{) 54 BN1
> >
> > Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> >
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "rons" <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>
> > To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2000 10:08 AM
> > Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
> >
> >
> > >
> > > So, what were you charged with, what was your defense and was the
officer
> > > who wrote the ticket in the courtroom?
> > >
> > > ----------
> > > >From: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
> > > >To: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>, <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > >Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
> > > >Date: Mon, Jul 24, 2000, 10:09 PM
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > NO. I was absolutely going the posted speed of 55. Otherwise I would
> > have
> > > > accepted the "states" offer of driving school and court costs.
> > > > Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> > > > 59 AH :{) 54 BN1
> > > >
> > > > Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> > > >
> >
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>
> > > > To: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 2:01 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >> Dave, just between you and the listers, were you speeding?
> > > >> Rayfixitanddriveitand watch yourspeedFeehan.
> > > >> -----Original Message-----
> > > >> From: frogeye <frogeye@gateway.net>
> > > >> To: Healeys@autox.team.net <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > >> Date: Monday, July 24, 2000 1:53 PM
> > > >> Subject: follow up on" radar and assholism"
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> >
> > > >> >Greetings listers,
> > > >> > 51 days ago I asked for usable defense strategies to overcome a
radar
> > > >> >speeding ticket.
> > > >> > Well my day in court was today. I must admit that it was worth
the
> > wait
> > > >> and
> > > >> >the time spent preparing my defense. I left the court with a
> > dismissal.
> > > > No
> > > >> >points, no fines,nada. God bless America and Paynofine.com and
this
> > list
> > > >> for
> > > >> >the radar education.
> > > >> >
> > > >> >
> > > >> >Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> > > >> >59 AH :{) 54 BN1
> > > >> >
> > > >> >Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> > > >>
> > >
> >
>>http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
> > > >> >
> > > >> >
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> Get your free email from AltaVista at http://altavista.iname.com
>
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 15:06:07 -0400
Subject: book reviews
As a new Healey owner I am trying to collect as much information as I can.
I found the hardbound owner's manual and the hardbound workshop manual
published by BMC. I see that there are some others out there such as a
Haynes book, a Chilton's book and the Autobook Workshop manual published by
Autopress.
Any comments on the Autobook? I never liked Chilton's books, but I've heard
the Haynes book is worth getting. What do you all recommend?
I also have Gary's recent restoration book and the Clausager book as well as
a couple of "cocktail table" picture books.
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 15:35:59 -0400
Subject: Addition to book review question
What source for these old, out of print books do you recommend?
From Healybj8 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 16:13:20 EDT
Subject: Re: book reviews
Never had the chilton book (didn't know it existed), but I have all the others.
The BMC shop book seems to be the best. The others seem to be basically the
same information, but changed slightly to avoid plagerism. I use the BMC book
as a first choice, then go to the others if the BMC book is not clear.
The Haynes manual, if you can find it, as it is out of print, is typical
haynes. More or less correct, but unclear in some places. The section which
describes the installation of front wheel bearings is just wrong. They neglect
to describe the installation of the shimms which are required, and if you
follow their direction, you will have to replace the wheel bearings in about
10,000 miles.
The Auto book is a duplication of the BMC book more or less. The chapters are
broken down in the same way, and the sub sections nearly duplicate the way the
BMC manual sub sections are set-up. I'd say it is a duplication of the shop
manual with the potential for error as it is a second generation book.
The owners manual is cute, but not particularly useful if you are doing any
kind of work on the car. Buy it if you want some gee-whiz information, but
that is about all its worth.
IMHO you should get the BMC book as it seems to me to be the best. Moss sells
these and they are easily bought on e-bay and the like. The others are lesser
books and will probably cost you as much. I have even sold my Haynes manual
since someone on the list said they wanted it. (That's how much I used it.)
The Autobook came with the car, so I keep it out of sentimental reasons.
My opinion.
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
In a message dated Tue, 25 Jul 2000 3:13:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Lee S.
Mairs" <lmairs@ix.netcom.com> writes:
<<
As a new Healey owner I am trying to collect as much information as I can.
I found the hardbound owner's manual and the hardbound workshop manual
published by BMC. I see that there are some others out there such as a
Haynes book, a Chilton's book and the Autobook Workshop manual published by
Autopress.
Any comments on the Autobook? I never liked Chilton's books, but I've heard
the Haynes book is worth getting. What do you all recommend?
I also have Gary's recent restoration book and the Clausager book as well as
a couple of "cocktail table" picture books.
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
>>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 16:41:11 -0400
Subject: Re: book reviews
Healybj8@aol.com wrote:
> Never had the chilton book (didn't know it existed), but I have all the
>others. The BMC shop book seems to be the best. The others seem to be
>basically the same information, but changed slightly to avoid plagerism. I
>use the BMC book as a first choice, then go to the others if the BMC book is
>not clear.
>
> The Haynes manual, if you can find it, as it is out of print, is typical
>haynes. More or less correct, but unclear in some places. The section which
>describes the installation of front wheel bearings is just wrong. They
>neglect to describe the installation of the shimms which are required, and if
>you follow their direction, you will have to replace the wheel bearings in
>about 10,000 miles.
>
> The Auto book is a duplication of the BMC book more or less. The chapters
>are broken down in the same way, and the sub sections nearly duplicate the way
>the BMC manual sub sections are set-up. I'd say it is a duplication of the
>shop manual with the potential for error as it is a second generation book.
>
> The owners manual is cute, but not particularly useful if you are doing any
>kind of work on the car. Buy it if you want some gee-whiz information, but
>that is about all its worth.
>
> IMHO you should get the BMC book as it seems to me to be the best. Moss
>sells these and they are easily bought on e-bay and the like. The others are
>lesser books and will probably cost you as much. I have even sold my Haynes
>manual since someone on the list said they wanted it. (That's how much I used
>it.) The Autobook came with the car, so I keep it out of sentimental reasons.
>
> My opinion.
>
> Tim Wallace
> '67 BJ8
> Fuquay-Varina, NC
>
> In a message dated Tue, 25 Jul 2000 3:13:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Lee
>S. Mairs" <lmairs@ix.netcom.com> writes:
>
> <<
> As a new Healey owner I am trying to collect as much information as I can.
> I found the hardbound owner's manual and the hardbound workshop manual
> published by BMC. I see that there are some others out there such as a
> Haynes book, a Chilton's book and the Autobook Workshop manual published by
> Autopress.
> Any comments on the Autobook? I never liked Chilton's books, but I've heard
> the Haynes book is worth getting. What do you all recommend?
>
> I also have Gary's recent restoration book and the Clausager book as well as
> a couple of "cocktail table" picture books.
>
> Lee
> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
>
> >>
IMHO the most useful book of all is the factory parts book....
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 14:56:18 -0600
Subject: Re: book reviews
one of the best all around shop books is Glenn's Foreign Car Repair Manual,
out of print, look for the 3rd printing for the most info.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: <Healybj8@aol.com>
To: <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 2:13 PM
Subject: Re: book reviews
>
> Never had the chilton book (didn't know it existed), but I have all the
others. The BMC shop book seems to be the best. The others seem to be
basically the same information, but changed slightly to avoid plagerism. I
use the BMC book as a first choice, then go to the others if the BMC book is
not clear.
>
> The Haynes manual, if you can find it, as it is out of print, is typical
haynes. More or less correct, but unclear in some places. The section
which describes the installation of front wheel bearings is just wrong.
They neglect to describe the installation of the shimms which are required,
and if you follow their direction, you will have to replace the wheel
bearings in about 10,000 miles.
>
> The Auto book is a duplication of the BMC book more or less. The chapters
are broken down in the same way, and the sub sections nearly duplicate the
way the BMC manual sub sections are set-up. I'd say it is a duplication of
the shop manual with the potential for error as it is a second generation
book.
>
> The owners manual is cute, but not particularly useful if you are doing
any kind of work on the car. Buy it if you want some gee-whiz information,
but that is about all its worth.
>
> IMHO you should get the BMC book as it seems to me to be the best. Moss
sells these and they are easily bought on e-bay and the like. The others
are lesser books and will probably cost you as much. I have even sold my
Haynes manual since someone on the list said they wanted it. (That's how
much I used it.) The Autobook came with the car, so I keep it out of
sentimental reasons.
>
> My opinion.
>
> Tim Wallace
> '67 BJ8
> Fuquay-Varina, NC
>
> In a message dated Tue, 25 Jul 2000 3:13:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
"Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@ix.netcom.com> writes:
>
> <<
> As a new Healey owner I am trying to collect as much information as I can.
> I found the hardbound owner's manual and the hardbound workshop manual
> published by BMC. I see that there are some others out there such as a
> Haynes book, a Chilton's book and the Autobook Workshop manual published
by
> Autopress.
> Any comments on the Autobook? I never liked Chilton's books, but I've
heard
> the Haynes book is worth getting. What do you all recommend?
>
> I also have Gary's recent restoration book and the Clausager book as well
as
> a couple of "cocktail table" picture books.
>
> Lee
> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
>
> >>
>
>
>
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 17:05:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Brake Fluid
OK, I'll bite first
Slicone Brake Fluid is Expensive, Non-corrosive (doesn't eat paint);
non-hygroscopic (does Not adsorb or absorb water); has a quite high boiling
point; is approximately the same specs as DOT3; and in my experience - ten
years in my AH BT7 and five years in my DAIMLER SP250 - does NOT eat or in any
way destroy Girling or Lockheed seals.
Castrol or Girling DOT3 and 4 has slightly higher boiling points (DOT4) and may
be slightly (very slightly) less compressable When Fresh, i.e. before they has
adsorbed ANY water. They also are highly corrosive and will take paintg of
your fenders quicker than automotive paint remover. They should be replaced
at least every three years and sooner if you live in a high humidity climate.
Slicone is a Flush, Install and forget it product.
If you race you should probably use LMA and completely flush and replace it
after every race.
Now the rest of the List can Flame away.
DickB
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 15:41:31 -0600
Subject: brk fluid
I still don't know why you are all resistant to considering the synthetic
DOT 3-4 brake fluids.
Compatible with conventional DOT 3-4. Higher boiling point, low moisture,
compatible with rubber or synthetic components.
I like Valvoline part # 059 read about it at http://www.valvoline.com
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 18:04:17 -0400
Subject: Re: book reviews
I have a copy of Glenn's Austin and Austin-Healey Repair and Tune-up Guide
(published 1965 by Chilton), Chilton's Repair & Tune-up Guide for the
Austin-Healey (Chilton, 1970), and Healey Owner's Handbook of Maintenance
and Repair (Floyd Clymer, no date, but it gives the address of the
publishing company as Los Angeles 4, California for what that's worth).
The Glenn's came from the previous owner of my car, but I found the other
two in antique book stores (not at the same time. The Chilton's is
autographed by Donald C. Affelder, Hyde Park, NY. Anybody know him? I've
often wondered what became of him). The Glenn's and Chilton's are
essentially the same information. They are both very good for quick tuneup
and troubleshooting information. The best of the three is the Clymer's,
both in content and in format.
I know you can't run right out and pick these up. I just mention them
because I found them without much looking, so they are out there if anyone
is interested in old books. The book that I use for maintenance on the car
is the BMC workshop manual.
Chilton's seems to have deteriorated quite a bit since the old days. I
ordered a Chilton's manual for a BMW 320i, and it had so many typos and
non-sensical sentence fragments, no wiring diagrams but a whole chapter on
how a storage battery works. It tried to cover 25 different models in one
book, so couldn't cover any of them in useful detail. I wrote Chilton's a
letter with my observations, and they didn't even bother to reply.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: frogeye <frogeye@gateway.net>
To: Healybj8@aol.com <Healybj8@aol.com>; lmairs@ix.netcom.com
<lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 5:08 PM
Subject: Re: book reviews
>
>one of the best all around shop books is Glenn's Foreign Car Repair Manual,
>out of print, look for the 3rd printing for the most info.
>Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
>59 AH :{) 54 BN1
>
>Click below for webpage and mopeds:
>http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Healybj8@aol.com>
>To: <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
>Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 2:13 PM
>Subject: Re: book reviews
>
>
>>
>> Never had the chilton book (didn't know it existed), but I have all the
>others. The BMC shop book seems to be the best. The others seem to be
>basically the same information, but changed slightly to avoid plagerism. I
>use the BMC book as a first choice, then go to the others if the BMC book
is
>not clear.
>>
>> The Haynes manual, if you can find it, as it is out of print, is typical
>haynes. More or less correct, but unclear in some places. The section
>which describes the installation of front wheel bearings is just wrong.
>They neglect to describe the installation of the shimms which are required,
>and if you follow their direction, you will have to replace the wheel
>bearings in about 10,000 miles.
>>
>> The Auto book is a duplication of the BMC book more or less. The
chapters
>are broken down in the same way, and the sub sections nearly duplicate the
>way the BMC manual sub sections are set-up. I'd say it is a duplication of
>the shop manual with the potential for error as it is a second generation
>book.
>>
>> The owners manual is cute, but not particularly useful if you are doing
>any kind of work on the car. Buy it if you want some gee-whiz information,
>but that is about all its worth.
>>
>> IMHO you should get the BMC book as it seems to me to be the best. Moss
>sells these and they are easily bought on e-bay and the like. The others
>are lesser books and will probably cost you as much. I have even sold my
>Haynes manual since someone on the list said they wanted it. (That's how
>much I used it.) The Autobook came with the car, so I keep it out of
>sentimental reasons.
>>
>> My opinion.
>>
>> Tim Wallace
>> '67 BJ8
>> Fuquay-Varina, NC
>>
>> In a message dated Tue, 25 Jul 2000 3:13:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>"Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@ix.netcom.com> writes:
>>
>> <<
>> As a new Healey owner I am trying to collect as much information as I
can.
>> I found the hardbound owner's manual and the hardbound workshop manual
>> published by BMC. I see that there are some others out there such as a
>> Haynes book, a Chilton's book and the Autobook Workshop manual published
>by
>> Autopress.
>> Any comments on the Autobook? I never liked Chilton's books, but I've
>heard
>> the Haynes book is worth getting. What do you all recommend?
>>
>> I also have Gary's recent restoration book and the Clausager book as well
>as
>> a couple of "cocktail table" picture books.
>>
>> Lee
>> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
>>
>> >>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 15:23:45 -0700
Subject: RE: Brake Fluid
I won't say that the silicone damages the seals, but it swells them enough
that when I switched back to LMA, I had leaks everywhere and had to put in
new seals 100% in both the clutch and brake systems.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 17:33:46 -0500
Subject: Repair Manuals
I have a Chilton's repair manual and have had it since 1974. I've found it
useful for some things. I also have a small handbook called "Tuning S.U.
Carburetters Including Full Needle Charts" 3rd Edition published by
SpeedSport motor books in England. It is perhaps the best manual for tuning
or repairing the SU carburetter if you can understand the terminology.
Will be glad to share information from either with anyone who needs it.
Don
BN7
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 23:44:22 +0100
Subject: Re: Overdrive
In message <000201bff67b$9d33ef20$0be107c3@jonmac>, John Macartney
<jonmac@ndirect.co.uk> writes
>Should I make sure I'm back in normal before going from third to second,
>or doesn't it matter?
>
>Alan
>I'm not too sure of the operating method of overdrives on Healeys as compared
>to
>MG's and
>Triumphs. This general thread crops up on all the lists from time to time and
>it's clear
>there is concern that the overdrive might be 'strained' through improper
>engagement. As
John,
Thanks for this. I'm just having trouble understanding that the engine
has to be 'pushing' (a bit of throttle) when disengaging overdrive (the
interlock relay) while in either third or fourth, but it can quite
happily be switched off as you go through the gate from 3rd/4th to
1st/2nd without any 'push' from the engine - by definition, as you're in
neutral at the time! As this gate switch is the last switch in series
with the solenoid, with no interlock around it, the solenoid just drops.
My logical brain can't work out why the overdrive must be switched off
with the engine pushing in one case, and in neutral in the other! Still
a bit confused.
In terms of the way I drive, I instinctively feel I need to get out of
overdrive before changing from third to second, which involves an
inconvenient blip on the throttle - inconvenient because I'm trying to
brake at the time (usually). But if I can just bang it into second and
let the overdrive drop out on the gate switch, that's a much smoother
way to drive, so long as I'm sure I'm not harming anything.
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 15:51:52 -0700
Subject: RE: brk fluid
I use Motul brake fluid in my Healey, 912 and racecar. It is high temp,
synthetic and can handle both long term storage and the smokin' hot temps
that the little, overworked ft discs on the RX7 racecar develop. The
grease in the ft bearings goes away before we have any issues with the brake
fluid. I've tried Silicone brake fluid, it was a costly, dangerous
experience, had to replace all the seals in 2 cars, had a pedal drop to the
floor. Thanks, but, I'll stick with high quality Dot 4. JP
John Pagel
Quality Control
Tel: 916-265-4424
John.Pagel@iMotors.com
You've never bought a used car like this.
-----Original Message-----
From: frogeye [mailto:frogeye@gateway.net]
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 2:42 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: brk fluid
I still don't know why you are all resistant to considering the synthetic
DOT 3-4 brake fluids.
Compatible with conventional DOT 3-4. Higher boiling point, low moisture,
compatible with rubber or synthetic components.
I like Valvoline part # 059 read about it at http://www.valvoline.com
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 19:42:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid
Have you Not a Dictionary?
ADsorb - attract water but Not combine with it.
ABsorb - attract water AND combine with it.
Your welcome
Dick
---- you wrote:
> In a message dated 07/25/2000 4:08:42 PM Central Daylight Time,
> dickb@cheerful.com writes:
>
> << (does Not adsorb or absorb water) >>
>
> Well, I won't "flame away", Dick, BUT what the hell does that mean??
>
> Ed
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 19:38:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid
In a message dated 7/25/00 1:29:05 PM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
All the technical specialists I've consulted and referenced agree with what
DickB has written, and my magazine concurs completely.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
< Slicone is a Flush, Install and forget it product.
If you race you should probably use LMA and completely flush and replace it
after every race.
Now the rest of the List can Flame away.
DickB >>
From JustBrits at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 20:00:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid
In a message dated 07/25/2000 6:43:29 PM Central Daylight Time,
dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<< Have you Not a Dictionary?
Huuum, have you absolutlu NO fu*king courtsey, Dick?? Guess not.
And I wrote to dbrill and I quote:
<<Subj: Re: Brake Fluid
Date: 07/25/2000 4:37:29 PM Central Daylight Time
From: JustBrits
To: dickb@cheerful.com
In a message dated 07/25/2000 4:08:42 PM Central Daylight Time,
dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<< (does Not adsorb or absorb water) >>
Well, I won't "flame away", Dick, BUT what the hell does that mean??
Ed>>
I guess "somewhere" in e-maidom the address of "healeys@....." got lost from
my original message which is DUPLICATED above. Go back to your law books.
Ed
PS: Sure would like the surplus filters back amd "perhaps" a "thank"??
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 17:09:15 -0700
Subject: Re: tranny trouble -advice needed
It worked for me....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: <JSoderling@aol.com>
To: <coop1@dnai.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 5:39 PM
Subject: Re: tranny trouble -advice needed
>
>
> Randy,
> Check the article by Norman Nock regarding an interim fix for your tranny
> problem in the June 1990 Austin Healey Magazine. He offers a fix by
adding wa
> shers behind the spring holding the detent balls to increase the pressure
on
> the detent ball that help hold it in the selected gear. The info is also
in
> Norman Nock's TECH TALK series which can be purchased from British Car
> Specialists, Stockton, CA www.Britishcarspecialists.com
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
>
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 20:28:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid
For what I feel is a very good overview of brake fluids go to
http://www.xs11.com/tips/maintenance/maint1.htm
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 7/25/00 1:29:05 PM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
>
> All the technical specialists I've consulted and referenced agree with what
> DickB has written, and my magazine concurs completely.
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> Editor, British Car Magazine
>
> < Slicone is a Flush, Install and forget it product.
>
> If you race you should probably use LMA and completely flush and replace it
> after every race.
>
> Now the rest of the List can Flame away.
>
> DickB >>
From tom dooley <tdooley at ispchannel.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 17:39:55 -0700
Subject: Need Quick Sale
Hello,
I need to sell my 1959 100-6 ASAP. I have over $80,000
in receipts. (Long story) Anyway, I didn't fix it up
for an investment. I did it for love. (Violins)
One divorce later, my liquidity is in the minus column.
It's a beautiful car inside and out. Any ideas out there
(or angels) to get $22.5k for this car soon? I need a
quick sale, but I don't want to sell it for $13,000.
All thoughts considered.
Thanks,
Tom Dooley
tdooley@ispchannel.com
From MegCC at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 20:54:47 EDT
Subject: air condtioning
OK I.ve been a peeping tom on this list for some time and I can use some
help. I'm looking to buy a BJ7 and to then install air conditioning in it.
HAs anyone done this and can anyone offer any advice. Thanks for your
thoughts and for all the knowledge this group has imparted on me already,
BTW I'm located in Northern NJ, so any shop that only does the work and not
sell a "kit" will need to be nearby.
Joe
BJ8 BN1(#923) '73 E-Type '71 280SL
From Jhayspu at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 21:04:24 EDT
Subject: (no subject)
Sorry that my problems with the mixed brake fluid caused no many harsh e
mails; I just wanted the collective wisdom about what to do. I still don't
know for sure. Most say, Drain, flush, dill, and bleed. OK.
Any problem with refilling with DOT 5 or should I go back to DOT 4?
The mechanic gets back from Indy 2000 on Friday; he gets the problem then.
Thanks for the help, Jerry
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersv.edu>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 21:59:25 -0400
Subject: RE: Brake Fluid
From: dickb@cheerful.com
OK, I'll bite first
From: Bill
Some issues never die. And perhaps this is a good thing. The last word is
usually wrong. To review this debate try listquest.com and spend the next 3
days reading the interminable cross talk from the past. For the record,
I've had the same girling fluid in my brake system for 6 years and I haven't
failed to stop for anything yet. Back when I was young and dumb and didn't
know what was up I kept a can of standard brake fluid in the boot along with
a gallon of water and 6 tool boxes. I loved the car, but didnt' trust it.
On my way to a Virginia meet the brake fluid can managed to short out the
battery cutoff switch. Car dies on the D.C. beltway. After much
investigation with a friend who knew what he was doing we replaced the coil
(a useless gesture) and then he found the can of brake fluid. Remove can,
car starts. So many Healeys passed me on the Washington beltway that I was
awarded the "Tough Luck" award by DMH himself. I didn't admit to the
contents of the can, but it was great to shake the hand of the man himself,
even if the cause was my own ignorance.
Bill Moyer, BJ7 known as "Chimera" a lion in front, a goat behind the wheel
and a snake's tail draggin' the exhaust behind. Goat's aren't too bright.
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersv.edu>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 22:10:52 -0400
Subject: overdrive
While we're on the subject, I've noticed an anomaly in my overdrive. It
will shift into overdrive in 4th gear, but I'm having a problem in 3rd.
Engine rmps can be the same, so I can't figure out what's happening. Not a
new situation for me, by the way. Any wisdom?
Bill Moyer, BJ7
P.S. I've got the same problem with second gear that was recently reported
on the list, it wants to pop out of gear on deceleration, especially going
downhill. Since I don't do this often, I'm ignoring it until I can pony up
the $$ for a transmission rebuild, a task that I'm not willing to do myself.
I took my trafficator apart myself once and now it doesn't self cancel.
Probably due to the 35 springs and balls that flew all over my garage of
which I found about 50%. The potential damage I could do to a transmission
is terrifying.
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersv.edu>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 22:30:58 -0400
Subject: RE: air condtioning
-----Original Message-----
From: MegCC@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: 7/25/00 8:54 PM
Subject: air condtioning
OK I.ve been a peeping tom on this list for some time and I can use
some help. I'm looking to buy a BJ7 and to then install air conditioning in
it.
<OK, just out of curiousity and completely without malice I've got to ask
why you want to air condition a top down car. I know many BJ8's have this
installed, so it is possible for you as well, but I've never understood it.
Do you really want to drive it with the top up on a sunny day? These cars
run hot as it is, putting an additional load on the power plant seems to be
to be asking for problems. As a reference point, my Explorer loses 200 rpms
and about 2 mpg when the air is on. Again, not flaming, just wondering.
Glad you stopped peeping.
Bill Moyer, BJ7, not for sale... yet. When it's worth as much as a new
Buggati, maybe. 18 cylinders, 72 valves, 550 hp, Lions and Tigers and
Bears, oh my!
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 16:42:06 -0600
Subject: Re: (no subject)
DOT 4
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jhayspu@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 7:04 PM
Subject: (no subject)
>
> Sorry that my problems with the mixed brake fluid caused no many harsh e
> mails; I just wanted the collective wisdom about what to do. I still
don't
> know for sure. Most say, Drain, flush, dill, and bleed. OK.
> Any problem with refilling with DOT 5 or should I go back to DOT 4?
> The mechanic gets back from Indy 2000 on Friday; he gets the problem then.
>
> Thanks for the help, Jerry
>
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 22:43:19 EDT
Subject: Re: RE: air condtioning
In a message dated 7/25/00 7:36:32 PM, William.Moyer@millersv.edu wrote:
<<OK, just out of curiousity and completely without malice I've got to ask
why you want to air condition a top down car. I know many BJ8's have this
installed, so it is possible for you as well, but I've never understood it.>>
One would want put A/C in top down car for the same reason that you don't
see many top down cars in hot (not temperate, HOT) climates.
I've often considered driving my Healey up 395 (middle of CA) in July but
being in sun all day in the high desert would really suck.
Plus, I've got the bitchin' hard top. would be nice to be in the shade, and
cool in the middle of the desert.
And about the Rally team. You think that little "lorry vent" did any good in
them babies running all through Italy?
Just my bonehead opinion,
Rick-no-A/C-yet-maybe-some-day-Wilkins
San Diego
From Bill Holt <lbcholt at one.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 22:44:42 -0400
Subject: Fwd: Re: Need Quick Sale
>Kelseyville, CA, in Lake County, about 2 1/2 miles north
>of San Francisco.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Tom
>
>Bill Holt wrote:
>>
>> Where is the car located now?
>>
>> Bill Holt
>>
>> At 08:55 PM 7/25/00 -0400, you wrote:
>> >
>> >Hello,
>> >
>> >I need to sell my 1959 100-6 ASAP. I have over $80,000
>> >in receipts. (Long story) Anyway, I didn't fix it up
>> >for an investment. I did it for love. (Violins)
>> >
>> >One divorce later, my liquidity is in the minus column.
>> >
>> >It's a beautiful car inside and out. Any ideas out there
>> >(or angels) to get $22.5k for this car soon? I need a
>> >quick sale, but I don't want to sell it for $13,000.
From Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp at juno.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 20:08:23 -0700
Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
And the police wonder why so many people have so little respect for them
On Tue, 25 Jul 2000 11:37:46 -0600 "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
writes:
>
> Dick,
> Regrettably, that is probably exactly what will happen, too bad as
> it is a
> pleasant 2 lane that's close to town and great for sunset
> drives........
> Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> 59 AH :{) 54 BN1
>
> Click below for webpage and mopeds:
>
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=0103901142094589295494314
6
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
> To: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>; "austin healey list"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Ronald J. Somers"
> <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>;
> "Ronald J. Somers" <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 11:23 AM
> Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
>
>
> > Rest assured you, your car, and all the details of your defense
> went up in
> the locker room that afternoon.
> >
> > If I were you I'd shave my moustache and do all my driving in that
> region
> in an 86 Cutlass from now on - at five Under, and make sure all the
> bulbs
> are burning and use your turn signals.
> >
> > <big G>
> >
> > DickB
> >
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> > >
> > > rons,
> > > The charge was 68MPH in a 55MPH zone.
> > > The defense was to have the officer explain his training, the
> operation
> of
> > > radar, the possible interfering conditions, the calibration of
> his unit
> > > (including his calibration logs), and yes he was there. In
> essence he
> was
> > > unable to to explain what he was taught, the factors that
> influence
> false
> > > readings, nor was he able to produce his calibration log.
> > > Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> > > 59 AH :{) 54 BN1
> > >
> > > Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> > >
>
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=0103901142094589295494314
6
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "rons" <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>
> > > To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2000 10:08 AM
> > > Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > So, what were you charged with, what was your defense and was
> the
> officer
> > > > who wrote the ticket in the courtroom?
> > > >
> > > > ----------
> > > > >From: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
> > > > >To: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>,
> <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > >Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
> > > > >Date: Mon, Jul 24, 2000, 10:09 PM
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > NO. I was absolutely going the posted speed of 55. Otherwise
> I would
> > > have
> > > > > accepted the "states" offer of driving school and court
> costs.
> > > > > Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> > > > > 59 AH :{) 54 BN1
> > > > >
> > > > > Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> > > > >
> > >
>
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=0103901142094589295494314
6
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>
> > > > > To: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>;
> <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > > Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 2:01 PM
> > > > > Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >> Dave, just between you and the listers, were you speeding?
> > > > >> Rayfixitanddriveitand watch yourspeedFeehan.
> > > > >> -----Original Message-----
> > > > >> From: frogeye <frogeye@gateway.net>
> > > > >> To: Healeys@autox.team.net <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > >> Date: Monday, July 24, 2000 1:53 PM
> > > > >> Subject: follow up on" radar and assholism"
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >> >
> > > > >> >Greetings listers,
> > > > >> > 51 days ago I asked for usable defense strategies to
> overcome a
> radar
> > > > >> >speeding ticket.
> > > > >> > Well my day in court was today. I must admit that it was
> worth
> the
> > > wait
> > > > >> and
> > > > >> >the time spent preparing my defense. I left the court
> with a
> > > dismissal.
> > > > > No
> > > > >> >points, no fines,nada. God bless America and Paynofine.com
> and
> this
> > > list
> > > > >> for
> > > > >> >the radar education.
> > > > >> >
> > > > >> >
> > > > >> >Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> > > > >> >59 AH :{) 54 BN1
> > > > >> >
> > > > >> >Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> > > > >>
> > > >
> > >
>
>>http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943
146
> > > > >> >
> > > > >> >
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> > Get your free email from AltaVista at http://altavista.iname.com
> >
>
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp at juno.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 20:13:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid
Dick
My experience mirrors yours
Silicone is the only way to go for most of us.
On Tue, 25 Jul 2000 17:05:56 -0400 (EDT) dickb@cheerful.com writes:
>
> OK, I'll bite first
>
> Slicone Brake Fluid is Expensive, Non-corrosive (doesn't eat paint);
> non-hygroscopic (does Not adsorb or absorb water); has a quite high
> boiling point; is approximately the same specs as DOT3; and in my
> experience - ten years in my AH BT7 and five years in my DAIMLER
> SP250 - does NOT eat or in any way destroy Girling or Lockheed
> seals.
>
> Castrol or Girling DOT3 and 4 has slightly higher boiling points
> (DOT4) and may be slightly (very slightly) less compressable When
> Fresh, i.e. before they has adsorbed ANY water. They also are
> highly corrosive and will take paintg of your fenders quicker than
> automotive paint remover. They should be replaced at least every
> three years and sooner if you live in a high humidity climate.
>
> Slicone is a Flush, Install and forget it product.
>
> If you race you should probably use LMA and completely flush and
> replace it after every race.
>
> Now the rest of the List can Flame away.
>
> DickB
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 20:27:07 -0700
Subject: Re: overdrive
I believe, but not positive, the overdrive switch on the side of the
transmission my need some shiming or removal of. It dictates the overdrive
will only work in 3rd & 4th gears. I think perhaps that if it works in 4th
that removal of a washer between the switch and tranny may fix your problem.
If there are no washers then the end of the switch may be worn toooo flat,
it contacts the fork arm inside. The switch can be removed by jacking the
car up or by removing the tunnel which ever is the easiest for you. You
could short out the switch to test but DO NOT back up with the overdrive
engaged or bye bye overdrive.....The switch is on the left side of the
tranny.
By the way (regarding coming out of gear) the shift rods in the tranny
have detents, which a ball rides in, helping to keep the car in gear. If the
detents get a little sloppy (rounded off) or the spring a little weak the
car may slip out of gear. Mine slipped out of second on hard deceleration,
the spring was shimmed with washers from the bottom which at least for the
time solved my problem....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Moyer" <William.Moyer@millersv.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 7:10 PM
Subject: overdrive
>
> While we're on the subject, I've noticed an anomaly in my overdrive. It
> will shift into overdrive in 4th gear, but I'm having a problem in 3rd.
> Engine rmps can be the same, so I can't figure out what's happening. Not
a
> new situation for me, by the way. Any wisdom?
>
> Bill Moyer, BJ7
>
> P.S. I've got the same problem with second gear that was recently
reported
> on the list, it wants to pop out of gear on deceleration, especially going
> downhill. Since I don't do this often, I'm ignoring it until I can pony
up
> the $$ for a transmission rebuild, a task that I'm not willing to do
myself.
> I took my trafficator apart myself once and now it doesn't self cancel.
> Probably due to the 35 springs and balls that flew all over my garage of
> which I found about 50%. The potential damage I could do to a
transmission
> is terrifying.
From Mr Finespanner <mrfinespanner at blazenet.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 00:05:37 -0700
Subject: Re: AMOCO White
Listers,
Sorry to be so late with this, but I was off the list for a few days. There has
been a lot of guessing about what went on regarding Amoco unleaded premium in
the
last 35-40 years that I feel compelled to add my $.02.
As you probably know I purchased my Tri-Carb new in July 1963 in South Central,
PA. Along with dozens of other sports car owners from the area, I attended
races
almost every weekend at Reading, PA, Cumberland, MD, Vineland, NJ, Upper
Marlboro, MD, Watkins Glen, NY, etc. All of us had state maps with handwritten
marks showing where Amoco stations were located in the Northeast. We all used
nothing but unleaded Amoco premium in our cars since it burned so clean.
To this day, I have never used leaded gasoline in my car and I am still using
the
original block and head, albeit with some modifications. The head was not
removed from the engine until it reached the 110,000 mile mark (in about 1969)
for a blown head gasket. At that time, I only did a standard valve job and
shaved the head because everything else looked very clean.
When leaded premium disappeared and the "scare" surfaced re: using unleaded gas
in older engines, I wrote a technical article addressing the problem. I think
that this was in the early 1980's. At that time I talked to engineers,
chemists,
and marketing people at Amoco asking how Amoco unleaded gasoline apparently
caused no problems for over 30 years, and now all unleaded gas was thought to be
harmful to older engines.
As I recall, their reply was that other gasoline manufacturers added lead as a
cheap way to obtain a high octane gasoline while Amoco used a more expensive
technique of refining to obtain higher octane numbers and not to worry about
using unleaded gasoline in older cars. They also mentioned other reasons why
owners of older cars should not be concerned about using unleaded gasoline.
That
was a long time ago and I can't remember specifics.
However, I also remember reading horror stories about older Volvos in particular
having premature valve seat wear using unleaded gas. I realize that the Amoco
people may have been self-serving, but maybe someone else out there has the
answer why Amoco unleaded has been working for so long and in the 1980's all
unleaded was branded as unwise for older cars?
Del Border
Tri-Carb OO
Healybj8@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 07/22/2000 4:50:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Awgertoo
> writes:
>
> << Or was it just a simpler, more innocent age when Harriet always wore an
> apron and Ozzie never had a job, and no one was as smart as we all seem to be
> at present? >>
>
> Well that probably was the big part. We didn't know that we needed lead
> until we couldn't get it anymore. I guess the other part is that most people
> probably didn't run Amoco white gas all the time, and if they did, the engine
> didn't have problems until 80,000 miles down the road. Even then, they were
> probably a very small group, and figured they just had a bad engine.
>
> Tim
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 00:15:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: brk fluid
Does #059 Eat Paint?
---- you wrote:
>
> I still don't know why you are all resistant to considering the synthetic
> DOT 3-4 brake fluids.
> Compatible with conventional DOT 3-4. Higher boiling point, low moisture,
> compatible with rubber or synthetic components.
> I like Valvoline part # 059 read about it at http://www.valvoline.com
>
> Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> 59 AH :{) 54 BN1
>
> Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 21:32:19 -0700
Subject: Re: I don't get this overdrive thing...
Peter:
to make sure that I understand this process:
It is ok (in fact good) to engage the clutch as the OD downshifts?
Many years ago I had an MGB GT and I do not remember the downshifts being as
hard as they are on my BJ8. But on the other hand maybe I don't remember.
Ron
Peter Brauen wrote:
> Hi Mike,
> Ditto your remarks on shifting from third overdrive to second. Without
> the throttle switch, if you take your foot off the throttle at high revs in
> third gear, then switch off the overdrive, the rear wheels will slow down so
> rapidly, they will 'lock up', potentially causing some very dangerous
> situations on curves or in the wet. Not to mention the massive reverse
> torque load on the cone clutch. My MGB/GT has no such device, and I make a
> point of 'dipping' the clutch (pushing it about halfway down) when
> simultaneously decelerating and switching out of overdrive, a practice that
> was once common practice in Britain, and makes for seamless downshifts from
> overdrive to direct drive.---Peter (BMC Restorations)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Krazy Kiwi <magicare@home.com>
> To: Alan F Cross <AlanX@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Monday, July 24, 2000 7:58 PM
> Subject: Re: I don't get this overdrive thing...
>
> Alan,
> I think the important thing is that you probably don't change from 3rd
> to
> 2nd without using the clutch.
> Unloading the gearbox as happens when the clutch is depressed allows the
> overdrive to disengage in an unloaded condition without having to
> accelerate
> that great lump of an engine.
> Anyway you shouldn't be driving in your wellys, or are you having
> another of
> those summers?
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> Alan F Cross wrote:
>
> > While investigating an intermittent overdrive, I got to thinking about
> > its operation.
> >
> > OK, so in third/fourth I can't switch from overdrive to normal without
> > giving the throttle a bit of welly, to prevent straining the poor
> thing.
> > But how come I can drop overdrive when changing from third to second,
> > when by definition my foot is off the throttle - surely this is
> counter
> > to the protection principle that is applied in third/fourth? Is the
> > stress thing sorted by being in neutral? I thought the engine had to
> be
> > 'pushing' for the O/D to be unstressed. The gate switch is in series
> > with the solenoid feed, so there's no clever latching or protection
> > applied, as there is with the manual switch.
> >
> > Should I make sure I'm back in normal before going from third to
> second,
> > or doesn't it matter?
> >
> > Alan F Cross
> > Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
> > H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 22:01:54 -0700
Subject: Re: air condtioning
Dear Curious in ??????
I have a BJ8 and often drive with the top up (read wife along).
She loves the car but hates the sun. So that is the compromise we make. We leave
in the AM with the top up; return in the PM (after sundown) with the top down.
I have been working diligently to stop the hot air from entering the cock pit.
Have had much success but not quite done. AFTER the hot air problem is solved in
would be nice to have AC.
Here in SoCal it is hot most of the year, and like others have said, a long
drive in the blazing sun with the top down is not always fun.
Ron Rader
Marina del Rey, CA
William Moyer wrote:
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: MegCC@aol.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: 7/25/00 8:54 PM
> Subject: air condtioning
>
> OK I.ve been a peeping tom on this list for some time and I can use
> some help. I'm looking to buy a BJ7 and to then install air conditioning in
> it.
>
> <OK, just out of curiousity and completely without malice I've got to ask
> why you want to air condition a top down car. I know many BJ8's have this
> installed, so it is possible for you as well, but I've never understood it.
> Do you really want to drive it with the top up on a sunny day? These cars
> run hot as it is, putting an additional load on the power plant seems to be
> to be asking for problems. As a reference point, my Explorer loses 200 rpms
> and about 2 mpg when the air is on. Again, not flaming, just wondering.
> Glad you stopped peeping.
>
> Bill Moyer, BJ7, not for sale... yet. When it's worth as much as a new
> Buggati, maybe. 18 cylinders, 72 valves, 550 hp, Lions and Tigers and
> Bears, oh my!
From "the real Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 11:28:00 -0400
Subject: jumping out of gear
Randy,
I have been doing Healey gearbox rebuilds for my own customers and all the
gearbox and OD overhauls for Hemphill's for many years and have encountered
the jumping out of gear phenomenon on several occaisions, so I would like to
add a bit to Mike's advice. Most often I have found the problem to be
excessive clearance between the inner core and outer rings of the slider
assemblies (called
"coupling sleeves" or "synchromesh sleeves" in the parts book and manual),
not
worn synchronizers. As the sliders wear over time the 3 spring-loaded balls
in each assembly lose pressure and fail to exert enough force to keep the
outer ring
in place under negative torque from decelleration. My cure for this has
been to shim these springs with 5/16" diameter shims in thicknesses of
.028" - .033", so
as to bring the spring pressures back to original tension. Unfortunately,
there is
no way I can tell you the correct number of pounds of pressure needed to
make
a slider work properly and stay in gear, as it is a subjective matter of
"the feel" an
assembly has as you work it in your hand, only acquired after experience and
comparison. As you might expect, a teardown of the box is required to fit
these shims. If you should take your box apart I will be glad to shim the
sliders for you if you send them to me. The Norman Nock fix cited by John
Soderling is easy but only an interim solution, as shimming the selector
shaft detent balls will significantly increase wear on the selector shafts.
Also, as the cars are not synchronized into first or reverse, you have the
right idea in selecting second before attempting these gears. This is
standard procedure for minimizing wear while shifting, and one way to tell
an experienced Healey driver from a novice.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
From "STEPHEN JOWETT" <enquiries at ukhealey.co.uk>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 18:49:06 +0100
Subject: Re: Brake fluid question
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0022_01BFF669.027FEB80
charset="iso-8859-1"
I remember going thru this before!! I have been involved with dozens Big
Healey restorations and for the last 16 years have used silicone DOT 5 in
them all without a problem.
My own BJ8 had it in from 94 and never had a seal or cylinder changed.
Even after the winter lay-up I never had sticking callipers.
Always use it on completely renewed brake and clutch hydraulic systems
and not with cylinders that have had normal hygroscopic fluids.
Steve Jowett UK HEALEY
www.ukhealey.co.uk
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RD=3D0D=3D0AALTOFTS=3D0D=3D0ANORMANTON=3D0D=3D0AW.YORKS WF6 =
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EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:enquiries@ukhealey.co.uk
REV:20000725T174906Z
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------=_NextPart_000_0022_01BFF669.027FEB80--
From njones at amadeus.net
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 10:52:02 +0100
Subject: Indicator/Horn assembly installation
From: Nick Jones@AMAWORLD on 26/07/2000 10:52 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
cc:
Subject: Indicator/Horn assembly installation
I need your help gang ..with installation.
I have just had my original Indicator/Horn assembly rebuilt...Oct 1961 stamped
on the back..!
There is a sliding return plate that seems to return the chrome lever to centre
after a turn.
Before reinstalling in the steering wheel at what position should this sliding
plate be..at 0600 o clock..?
Many thanks in advance
From Dan Ness <dness at silknet.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 07:48:40 -0400
Subject: RE: book reviews
There is a listing of all available British Auto Books broken down by make
at the
British Parts Connection in case anyone is looking for anything specific:
http://www.thebpc.com/graphics/books.html
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Byers [mailto:byers@cconnect.net]
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 6:04 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: book reviews
I have a copy of Glenn's Austin and Austin-Healey Repair and Tune-up Guide
(published 1965 by Chilton), Chilton's Repair & Tune-up Guide for the
Austin-Healey (Chilton, 1970), and Healey Owner's Handbook of Maintenance
and Repair (Floyd Clymer, no date, but it gives the address of the
publishing company as Los Angeles 4, California for what that's worth).
The Glenn's came from the previous owner of my car, but I found the other
two in antique book stores (not at the same time. The Chilton's is
autographed by Donald C. Affelder, Hyde Park, NY. Anybody know him? I've
often wondered what became of him). The Glenn's and Chilton's are
essentially the same information. They are both very good for quick tuneup
and troubleshooting information. The best of the three is the Clymer's,
both in content and in format.
I know you can't run right out and pick these up. I just mention them
because I found them without much looking, so they are out there if anyone
is interested in old books. The book that I use for maintenance on the car
is the BMC workshop manual.
Chilton's seems to have deteriorated quite a bit since the old days. I
ordered a Chilton's manual for a BMW 320i, and it had so many typos and
non-sensical sentence fragments, no wiring diagrams but a whole chapter on
how a storage battery works. It tried to cover 25 different models in one
book, so couldn't cover any of them in useful detail. I wrote Chilton's a
letter with my observations, and they didn't even bother to reply.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: frogeye <frogeye@gateway.net>
To: Healybj8@aol.com <Healybj8@aol.com>; lmairs@ix.netcom.com
<lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 5:08 PM
Subject: Re: book reviews
>
>one of the best all around shop books is Glenn's Foreign Car Repair Manual,
>out of print, look for the 3rd printing for the most info.
>Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
>59 AH :{) 54 BN1
>
>Click below for webpage and mopeds:
>http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Healybj8@aol.com>
>To: <lmairs@ix.netcom.com>
>Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 2:13 PM
>Subject: Re: book reviews
>
>
>>
>> Never had the chilton book (didn't know it existed), but I have all the
>others. The BMC shop book seems to be the best. The others seem to be
>basically the same information, but changed slightly to avoid plagerism. I
>use the BMC book as a first choice, then go to the others if the BMC book
is
>not clear.
>>
>> The Haynes manual, if you can find it, as it is out of print, is typical
>haynes. More or less correct, but unclear in some places. The section
>which describes the installation of front wheel bearings is just wrong.
>They neglect to describe the installation of the shimms which are required,
>and if you follow their direction, you will have to replace the wheel
>bearings in about 10,000 miles.
>>
>> The Auto book is a duplication of the BMC book more or less. The
chapters
>are broken down in the same way, and the sub sections nearly duplicate the
>way the BMC manual sub sections are set-up. I'd say it is a duplication of
>the shop manual with the potential for error as it is a second generation
>book.
>>
>> The owners manual is cute, but not particularly useful if you are doing
>any kind of work on the car. Buy it if you want some gee-whiz information,
>but that is about all its worth.
>>
>> IMHO you should get the BMC book as it seems to me to be the best. Moss
>sells these and they are easily bought on e-bay and the like. The others
>are lesser books and will probably cost you as much. I have even sold my
>Haynes manual since someone on the list said they wanted it. (That's how
>much I used it.) The Autobook came with the car, so I keep it out of
>sentimental reasons.
>>
>> My opinion.
>>
>> Tim Wallace
>> '67 BJ8
>> Fuquay-Varina, NC
>>
>> In a message dated Tue, 25 Jul 2000 3:13:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>"Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@ix.netcom.com> writes:
>>
>> <<
>> As a new Healey owner I am trying to collect as much information as I
can.
>> I found the hardbound owner's manual and the hardbound workshop manual
>> published by BMC. I see that there are some others out there such as a
>> Haynes book, a Chilton's book and the Autobook Workshop manual published
>by
>> Autopress.
>> Any comments on the Autobook? I never liked Chilton's books, but I've
>heard
>> the Haynes book is worth getting. What do you all recommend?
>>
>> I also have Gary's recent restoration book and the Clausager book as well
>as
>> a couple of "cocktail table" picture books.
>>
>> Lee
>> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
>>
>> >>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
From ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit at juno.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 08:46:58 -0400
Subject: Re: fluid ramblings
The issue may never be settled but despite or perhaps inspite of what
others are mostly saying I must add my cents worth.
I personally have had 100% failure of Silicon in my British cars and this
is what I have observed in others. SBF eventually softened the rubbers
and led to a mushy pedal. You are reading testimony from those who have
not had this problem but I have and I have seen it not only happen to me
and mine but to others as well.
I have no axe to grind...in fact before using it I invested in quite a
quantity of the stuff believing in its benefits. I was more than just
disappointed.
A couple of other points to ponder:
While SBF (silicon brake fluid) does not draw moisture it does hold and
trap air for a VERY LONG TIME. It is a very tiny molecule which wants
to find any excuse to escape as opposed to a monster hydrocarbon molecule
of LMA. SBF does tend to leak around otherwise inpenetrialbe joints.
SBF does have a high boiling point but DOT 4 LMA is also higher than std
american dot 3 and this issue is really moot since for the most part we
are not talking race action where brakes are applied at the same time the
fuel pedal is being applied.
When it comes time to haul in the horsepower ie. stop... we seldom
consider what if it won't stop.........that is reason enough for me to
stick to LMA.......
I can not fly in the face of all those who have had no trouble with SBF
but I HAVE.
R Kirk
On Tue, 25 Jul 2000 21:04:24 EDT Jhayspu@aol.com writes:
>
> Sorry that my problems with the mixed brake fluid caused no many
> harsh e
> mails; I just wanted the collective wisdom about what to do. I
> still don't
> know for sure. Most say, Drain, flush, dill, and bleed. OK.
> Any problem with refilling with DOT 5 or should I go back to DOT 4?
> The mechanic gets back from Indy 2000 on Friday; he gets the problem
> then.
>
> Thanks for the help, Jerry
From ccruz at tribune.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 07:53:00 -0500
Subject: Any word...
Any word from Ed Kaler's penthouse party at Conclave?
Jealous minds want to know...
Carlos Cruz
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 09:24:40 -0400
Subject: rag top catch -60 bn7
Hi all,
Does anyone know of a U.S. supplier for the rag top catch for a 60
bn7? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 07:32:55 -0600
Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
Robert,
and I wonder why so many people live in utopia.........
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Dobrowski" <rsdslp@juno.com>
To: <frogeye@gateway.net>
Cc: <dickb@cheerful.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>;
<arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 9:08 PM
Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
> And the police wonder why so many people have so little respect for them
>
>
> On Tue, 25 Jul 2000 11:37:46 -0600 "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
> writes:
> >
> > Dick,
> > Regrettably, that is probably exactly what will happen, too bad as
> > it is a
> > pleasant 2 lane that's close to town and great for sunset
> > drives........
> > Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> > 59 AH :{) 54 BN1
> >
> > Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> >
> http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=0103901142094589295494314
> 6
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
> > To: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>; "austin healey list"
> > <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Ronald J. Somers"
> > <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>;
> > "Ronald J. Somers" <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 11:23 AM
> > Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
> >
> >
> > > Rest assured you, your car, and all the details of your defense
> > went up in
> > the locker room that afternoon.
> > >
> > > If I were you I'd shave my moustache and do all my driving in that
> > region
> > in an 86 Cutlass from now on - at five Under, and make sure all the
> > bulbs
> > are burning and use your turn signals.
> > >
> > > <big G>
> > >
> > > DickB
> > >
> > >
> > > ---- you wrote:
> > > >
> > > > rons,
> > > > The charge was 68MPH in a 55MPH zone.
> > > > The defense was to have the officer explain his training, the
> > operation
> > of
> > > > radar, the possible interfering conditions, the calibration of
> > his unit
> > > > (including his calibration logs), and yes he was there. In
> > essence he
> > was
> > > > unable to to explain what he was taught, the factors that
> > influence
> > false
> > > > readings, nor was he able to produce his calibration log.
> > > > Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> > > > 59 AH :{) 54 BN1
> > > >
> > > > Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> > > >
> >
> http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=0103901142094589295494314
> 6
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "rons" <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>
> > > > To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2000 10:08 AM
> > > > Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > So, what were you charged with, what was your defense and was
> > the
> > officer
> > > > > who wrote the ticket in the courtroom?
> > > > >
> > > > > ----------
> > > > > >From: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
> > > > > >To: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>,
> > <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > > >Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
> > > > > >Date: Mon, Jul 24, 2000, 10:09 PM
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > NO. I was absolutely going the posted speed of 55. Otherwise
> > I would
> > > > have
> > > > > > accepted the "states" offer of driving school and court
> > costs.
> > > > > > Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> > > > > > 59 AH :{) 54 BN1
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> > > > > >
> > > >
> >
> http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=0103901142094589295494314
> 6
> > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > > From: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>
> > > > > > To: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>;
> > <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > > > Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 2:01 PM
> > > > > > Subject: Re: follow up on" radar and assholism"
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >> Dave, just between you and the listers, were you speeding?
> > > > > >> Rayfixitanddriveitand watch yourspeedFeehan.
> > > > > >> -----Original Message-----
> > > > > >> From: frogeye <frogeye@gateway.net>
> > > > > >> To: Healeys@autox.team.net <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > > >> Date: Monday, July 24, 2000 1:53 PM
> > > > > >> Subject: follow up on" radar and assholism"
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >> >
> > > > > >> >Greetings listers,
> > > > > >> > 51 days ago I asked for usable defense strategies to
> > overcome a
> > radar
> > > > > >> >speeding ticket.
> > > > > >> > Well my day in court was today. I must admit that it was
> > worth
> > the
> > > > wait
> > > > > >> and
> > > > > >> >the time spent preparing my defense. I left the court
> > with a
> > > > dismissal.
> > > > > > No
> > > > > >> >points, no fines,nada. God bless America and Paynofine.com
> > and
> > this
> > > > list
> > > > > >> for
> > > > > >> >the radar education.
> > > > > >> >
> > > > > >> >
> > > > > >> >Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> > > > > >> >59 AH :{) 54 BN1
> > > > > >> >
> > > > > >> >Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> > > > > >>
> > > > >
> > > >
> >
> >>http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943
> 146
> > > > > >> >
> > > > > >> >
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> > > Get your free email from AltaVista at http://altavista.iname.com
> > >
> >
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
> Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
> Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
>
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 09:37:30 -0700
Subject: Re: air condtioning
Ron: I picked up your thread about reducing the hot air in your cockpit. I
had
the same problem on my BN4. If you take the front cowl off check the sub frame
below
the cowl ( nose). There should be a thick fiberous or rubber material which
runs
the full width of the car on top of the subframe near where the windshield would
be. If this is broken or frayed it will let trapped air at the rear of the
engine
compartment into the cabin. It can be like a blowtorch at times. If you
haven't
had the nose off....or don't care to take it off... you can use some rope caulk
and
stuff the caulk between the underside of the nose and the top of the firewall
at the
back of the engine. EDS
Ron Rader wrote:
> Dear Curious in ??????
>
> I have a BJ8 and often drive with the top up (read wife along).
>
> She loves the car but hates the sun. So that is the compromise we make. We
>leave
> in the AM with the top up; return in the PM (after sundown) with the top down.
>
> I have been working diligently to stop the hot air from entering the cock pit.
> Have had much success but not quite done. AFTER the hot air problem is solved
>in
> would be nice to have AC.
>
> Here in SoCal it is hot most of the year, and like others have said, a long
> drive in the blazing sun with the top down is not always fun.
>
> Ron Rader
> Marina del Rey, CA
>
> William Moyer wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: MegCC@aol.com
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Sent: 7/25/00 8:54 PM
> > Subject: air condtioning
> >
> > OK I.ve been a peeping tom on this list for some time and I can use
> > some help. I'm looking to buy a BJ7 and to then install air conditioning in
> > it.
> >
> > <OK, just out of curiousity and completely without malice I've got to ask
> > why you want to air condition a top down car. I know many BJ8's have this
> > installed, so it is possible for you as well, but I've never understood it.
> > Do you really want to drive it with the top up on a sunny day? These cars
> > run hot as it is, putting an additional load on the power plant seems to be
> > to be asking for problems. As a reference point, my Explorer loses 200 rpms
> > and about 2 mpg when the air is on. Again, not flaming, just wondering.
> > Glad you stopped peeping.
> >
> > Bill Moyer, BJ7, not for sale... yet. When it's worth as much as a new
> > Buggati, maybe. 18 cylinders, 72 valves, 550 hp, Lions and Tigers and
> > Bears, oh my!
From ROBERT KIRK <kirkbrit at juno.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 10:25:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid
Just read the article and its dead on and explains perhaps why I
personally have had bad luck with Silicon..........thanks for the
insight..... and while I don't wish to appear "dogmatic" ..... I highly
suggest others read this digest if there is any rational concern over the
issue....
R Kirk
On Tue, 25 Jul 2000 20:28:58 -0400 Krazy Kiwi <magicare@home.com> writes:
>
> For what I feel is a very good overview of brake fluids go to
> http://www.xs11.com/tips/maintenance/maint1.htm
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>
>
>
> Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> > In a message dated 7/25/00 1:29:05 PM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
> >
> > All the technical specialists I've consulted and referenced agree
> with what
> > DickB has written, and my magazine concurs completely.
> > Cheers
> > Gary Anderson
> > Editor, British Car Magazine
> >
> > < Slicone is a Flush, Install and forget it product.
> >
> > If you race you should probably use LMA and completely flush and
> replace it
> > after every race.
> >
> > Now the rest of the List can Flame away.
> >
> > DickB >>
>
>
>
>
From JustBrits at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 10:25:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Any word...
In a message dated 07/26/2000 7:59:15 AM Central Daylight Time,
ccruz@tribune.com writes:
<< Jealous minds want to know... >>
So do I, Carlos<F><F> I am right where you saw me last<F><F>!!
Ed
From JustBrits at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 10:35:55 EDT
Subject: Re: air condtioning
In a message dated 07/26/2000 12:03:33 AM Central Daylight Time,
rader@interworld.net writes:
<< I have a BJ8 and often drive with the top up >>
My .02. Although I have a BJ-7, I to go with daylight = hood raised and
evening/night = lowered.
But, unless in a real downpour, back window DOWN. Cockpit temp is GREAT thru
that wonderful "windtunnel!!
Cheers........
Ed
From ccruz at tribune.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 09:44:00 -0500
Subject: Brake Fluid - NOT
EVERYONE DUCK AND TAKE COVER - THERE'S A DRIVE-BY (EMAIL) SHOOTING
GOING ON! IT APPEARS THERE MAY BE INDIANS AROUND THE CORNER TOO...
As a by-stander caught in the cross fire, it amazes me how business
men catering to a small niche market like vintage British automobiles
can be so confrontational and condescending to their existing or
potential client base, no matter what the circumstances. There must
be a secret your success. Please share it with us so that we can all
become wealthy, independent Moss Distributors and shadey-tree
mechanics.
We may not always get the best quality parts from the big part houses
nor may we always get the right parts delivered from them. But I have
never heard of or witnessed the big businesses attach their
consumer-base like this. My .02 cents (and it's not worth that much),
the aggravation is not worth the discount.
Here's an idea...
WELCOME TO HEALEY SURVIVOR. THE VIRTUAL SHOW WHERE HEALEY OWNERS ARE
STRANDED ON A VIRTUAL ISLAND TOGETHER CHARGED WITH MAINTAINING AND
ENJOYING RARE, BEAUTIFUL BRITISH SPORTSCARS AND ROADSTERS. READ HOW
THEY INTERACT WITH EACH OTHER THEN CALL 1-800-UGOTOGO AND VOTE WHO
GETS TO LEAVE... (think of the possibilities). Anyone work for a
.com willing to pick up the pilot show? ;-)
I hate these damn soap boxes...
Not so happy Healeying today, :-(
Carlos Cruz
---------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 20:00:21 EDT
>> From: JustBrits@aol.com
>> Subject: Re: Brake Fluid
>>
>> In a message dated 07/25/2000 6:43:29 PM Central Daylight Time,
>> dickb@cheerful.com writes:
>>
>> << Have you Not a Dictionary?
>> Huuum, have you absolutlu NO fu*king courtsey, Dick?? Guess not.
>>
>> And I wrote to dbrill and I quote:
>>
>> <<Subj: Re: Brake Fluid
>> Date: 07/25/2000 4:37:29 PM Central Daylight Time
>> From: JustBrits
>> To: dickb@cheerful.com
>>
>> In a message dated 07/25/2000 4:08:42 PM Central Daylight Time,
>> dickb@cheerful.com writes:
>>
>> << (does Not adsorb or absorb water) >>
>>
>> Well, I won't "flame away", Dick, BUT what the hell does that >>
mean??
>>
>> Ed>>
>>
>> I guess "somewhere" in e-maidom the address of "healeys@....." got
>> lost from my original message which is DUPLICATED above. Go back
>> to your law books.
>>
>> Ed
>>
>> PS: Sure would like the surplus filters back amd "perhaps" a
>> "thank"??
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 07:49:09 -0700
Subject: Re: rag top catch -60 bn7
try British car specialists
209.948.8767
I saw it in their last catalog
Ron Rader
"Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" wrote:
> Hi all,
> Does anyone know of a U.S. supplier for the rag top catch for a 60
> bn7? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 08:19:18 -0700
Subject: RE: air conditioning
I haven't done it, but plan to install a Vintage Air combination heater/AC
unit inplace of the existing heater in the future. That should give me good
defrosting also in the winter rains. I think an alternator will also be
necessary. I think the stock radiator will be adequate, but may need more
fan than my flex fan for traffic.
I take pictures of all the AC installations I see and have probably seen
about four including an old dealer installed one.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: MegCC@aol.com [mailto:MegCC@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 5:55 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: air condtioning
OK I.ve been a peeping tom on this list for some time and I can use some
help. I'm looking to buy a BJ7 and to then install air conditioning in it.
HAs anyone done this and can anyone offer any advice. Thanks for your
thoughts and for all the knowledge this group has imparted on me already,
BTW I'm located in Northern NJ, so any shop that only does the work and
not
sell a "kit" will need to be nearby.
Joe
BJ8 BN1(#923) '73 E-Type '71 280SL
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 12:14:21 -0500
Subject: Overdrive working!
Hey Gang!
Thanks to someone who posted a trouble shooting tech tip on here a long time
ago (I printed it and kept it) I have got my overdrive working!
I found the problem was something that I never expected.
The driver's switch on the dashboard was bad. That was the last thing I
though would ever go out! Just goes to show you that with these cars you
can't "assume" anything. As the old saying goes, assume makes an "ass" out
of "u" and "me".
I took the Old Red Devil out for a 6 mile run down a real twisty two lane
curvy Kentucky backroad and lo and behold I was clipping along at about 3G
in 4th, let off the gas, hit the overdrive switch, and "swish" it dropped
right in like I knew what I was doing! RPM's dropped to 2G and speed
increased about 5 mph. Almost scared me for a second, cause I was
approaching a tight left curve. I down shifted though and flew threw it
like it wasn't even there. Beautiful feeling when things work right on
these cars! Still need to change sparkplug wires, coil and maybe points to
stop a little miss but it's running!
Don
BN7
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 13:53:33 -0400
Subject: RE: Overdrive working!
also the KISS method
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Yarber [mailto:dyarber@dynasty.net]
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 1:14 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Overdrive working!
Hey Gang!
Thanks to someone who posted a trouble shooting tech tip on here a long time
ago (I printed it and kept it) I have got my overdrive working!
I found the problem was something that I never expected.
The driver's switch on the dashboard was bad. That was the last thing I
though would ever go out! Just goes to show you that with these cars you
can't "assume" anything. As the old saying goes, assume makes an "ass" out
of "u" and "me".
I took the Old Red Devil out for a 6 mile run down a real twisty two lane
curvy Kentucky backroad and lo and behold I was clipping along at about 3G
in 4th, let off the gas, hit the overdrive switch, and "swish" it dropped
right in like I knew what I was doing! RPM's dropped to 2G and speed
increased about 5 mph. Almost scared me for a second, cause I was
approaching a tight left curve. I down shifted though and flew threw it
like it wasn't even there. Beautiful feeling when things work right on
these cars! Still need to change sparkplug wires, coil and maybe points to
stop a little miss but it's running!
Don
BN7
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 16:09:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Overdrive working!
Hi, Don --
A few weeks ago, I started from home at 3:00 am on the way to a British Car
Day in Maryland. I stopped before leaving town to get some coffee at a
convenience store. The O/D was working normally before then, but when I
left the convenience store it wouldn't work at all. Because I have
installed a light on the dash above the O/D switch that comes on when the
switch is turned on (helps me remember not to back up with the switch on),
and since the light wasn't on, I knew the problem had to be electrical and
not hydraulic, and that the problem had to be somewhere up to the switch
(and not, for instance the gear lever switch or solenoid). It turned out
that one of the terminals on the dash switch had broken off. Although I had
to drive the 350 miles to Maryland without overdrive, I was fortunate enough
to find a replacement switch sold by one of the vendors at the car show.
But, even if I hadn't found a switch I was going to buy a cheapo single-pole
switch of some sort at the local auto supply house, just to get me home.
Was the wiring diagram I sent you any help at all with your problem?
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Yarber <dyarber@dynasty.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 1:23 PM
Subject: Overdrive working!
>
>Hey Gang!
>
>Thanks to someone who posted a trouble shooting tech tip on here a long
time
>ago (I printed it and kept it) I have got my overdrive working!
>
>I found the problem was something that I never expected.
>
>The driver's switch on the dashboard was bad. That was the last thing I
>though would ever go out! Just goes to show you that with these cars you
>can't "assume" anything. As the old saying goes, assume makes an "ass" out
>of "u" and "me".
>
>I took the Old Red Devil out for a 6 mile run down a real twisty two lane
>curvy Kentucky backroad and lo and behold I was clipping along at about 3G
>in 4th, let off the gas, hit the overdrive switch, and "swish" it dropped
>right in like I knew what I was doing! RPM's dropped to 2G and speed
>increased about 5 mph. Almost scared me for a second, cause I was
>approaching a tight left curve. I down shifted though and flew threw it
>like it wasn't even there. Beautiful feeling when things work right on
>these cars! Still need to change sparkplug wires, coil and maybe points to
>stop a little miss but it's running!
>
>Don
>BN7
>
>
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 14:09:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Overdrive working!
May we go over this again boys....that is the need to let off the gas when
engaging or disengaging the OD. What are the feelings on this subject. I
have never easied off the gas when putting in or out of OD. There doesn't
appear to be any need to do so, everything seems to work smoothly. Of course
in 3rd OD at high rpm's it makes sense not to take it out of OD but in 4th
what's the diff. I would think there would be more shock to the drive train
doing it the other way...just wondering....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 10:14 AM
Subject: Overdrive working!
>
> Hey Gang!
>
> Thanks to someone who posted a trouble shooting tech tip on here a long
time
> ago (I printed it and kept it) I have got my overdrive working!
>
> I found the problem was something that I never expected.
>
> The driver's switch on the dashboard was bad. That was the last thing I
> though would ever go out! Just goes to show you that with these cars you
> can't "assume" anything. As the old saying goes, assume makes an "ass"
out
> of "u" and "me".
>
> I took the Old Red Devil out for a 6 mile run down a real twisty two lane
> curvy Kentucky backroad and lo and behold I was clipping along at about 3G
> in 4th, let off the gas, hit the overdrive switch, and "swish" it dropped
> right in like I knew what I was doing! RPM's dropped to 2G and speed
> increased about 5 mph. Almost scared me for a second, cause I was
> approaching a tight left curve. I down shifted though and flew threw it
> like it wasn't even there. Beautiful feeling when things work right on
> these cars! Still need to change sparkplug wires, coil and maybe points
to
> stop a little miss but it's running!
>
> Don
> BN7
>
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 16:00:32 -0600
Subject: Re: Overdrive working!
Neil,
After a lurrid spin, Jimmy Clarke was asked how he could control a F1 race
car under such conditions, his reply " I de-clutch".
Not exactly the definitive answer you sought I know. Like you, I don't use
the clutch.
If in doubt and it gives you piece of mind, then by all means use the clutch
as some of those O/D parts are getting pretty hard to find, plus it's a lot
of work to repair one.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 3:09 PM
Subject: Re: Overdrive working!
>
> May we go over this again boys....that is the need to let off the gas when
> engaging or disengaging the OD. What are the feelings on this subject. I
> have never easied off the gas when putting in or out of OD. There doesn't
> appear to be any need to do so, everything seems to work smoothly. Of
course
> in 3rd OD at high rpm's it makes sense not to take it out of OD but in 4th
> what's the diff. I would think there would be more shock to the drive
train
> doing it the other way...just wondering....Neil
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 10:14 AM
> Subject: Overdrive working!
>
>
> >
> > Hey Gang!
> >
> > Thanks to someone who posted a trouble shooting tech tip on here a long
> time
> > ago (I printed it and kept it) I have got my overdrive working!
> >
> > I found the problem was something that I never expected.
> >
> > The driver's switch on the dashboard was bad. That was the last thing I
> > though would ever go out! Just goes to show you that with these cars
you
> > can't "assume" anything. As the old saying goes, assume makes an "ass"
> out
> > of "u" and "me".
> >
> > I took the Old Red Devil out for a 6 mile run down a real twisty two
lane
> > curvy Kentucky backroad and lo and behold I was clipping along at about
3G
> > in 4th, let off the gas, hit the overdrive switch, and "swish" it
dropped
> > right in like I knew what I was doing! RPM's dropped to 2G and speed
> > increased about 5 mph. Almost scared me for a second, cause I was
> > approaching a tight left curve. I down shifted though and flew threw it
> > like it wasn't even there. Beautiful feeling when things work right on
> > these cars! Still need to change sparkplug wires, coil and maybe points
> to
> > stop a little miss but it's running!
> >
> > Don
> > BN7
> >
>
>
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 17:53:19 EDT
Subject: RE: air conditioning
Ken--
I don't remember who made the initial inquiry about Air Conditioning the
other day, and I answered briefly that he should not do it.
I used to have a BT7 when I lived in South Florida some years back and I had
installed one of those aftermarket-type AC's they used to make in the '60s.
The installation was not difficult, although it looked quite inappropriate.
Yes, the unit blew out cold air, but between the amount of heat coming in
through the thin, black top, the untinted windows and the usual heat leaks,
it was not what I would call a successful venture!
Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD
1955 BN 1 (no AC)
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 16:57:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Overdrive working!
Hi Neil,
You are (you're;-) right, and that has been the point. You should keep
your welly on the throttle. The question was why doesn't that hold true when
downshifting to second? The answer was because the clutch is depressed
allowing a smooth downshift. Enjoy!---Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: Neil Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net>
To: Don Yarber <dyarber@dynasty.net>; Healey List
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 4:47 PM
Subject: Re: Overdrive working!
May we go over this again boys....that is the need to let off the gas
when
engaging or disengaging the OD. What are the feelings on this subject. I
have never easied off the gas when putting in or out of OD. There
doesn't
appear to be any need to do so, everything seems to work smoothly. Of
course
in 3rd OD at high rpm's it makes sense not to take it out of OD but in
4th
what's the diff. I would think there would be more shock to the drive
train
doing it the other way...just wondering....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 10:14 AM
Subject: Overdrive working!
>
> Hey Gang!
>
> Thanks to someone who posted a trouble shooting tech tip on here a
long
time
> ago (I printed it and kept it) I have got my overdrive working!
>
> I found the problem was something that I never expected.
>
> The driver's switch on the dashboard was bad. That was the last thing
I
> though would ever go out! Just goes to show you that with these cars
you
> can't "assume" anything. As the old saying goes, assume makes an
"ass"
out
> of "u" and "me".
>
> I took the Old Red Devil out for a 6 mile run down a real twisty two
lane
> curvy Kentucky backroad and lo and behold I was clipping along at
about 3G
> in 4th, let off the gas, hit the overdrive switch, and "swish" it
dropped
> right in like I knew what I was doing! RPM's dropped to 2G and speed
> increased about 5 mph. Almost scared me for a second, cause I was
> approaching a tight left curve. I down shifted though and flew threw
it
> like it wasn't even there. Beautiful feeling when things work right
on
> these cars! Still need to change sparkplug wires, coil and maybe
points
to
> stop a little miss but it's running!
>
> Don
> BN7
>
From "jim t.p. ryan" <ryan at jimryan.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 15:23:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Overdrive working!
I thought that was the purpose of the throttle switch, to not let the OD
actually step down until you gave it a little gas.
Sincerely,
Jim Ryan
64 bj7
-----Original Message-----
From: Neil Trelenberg neilberg@telus.net
Sent: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 14:09:33 -0700
To: dyarber@dynasty.net, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Overdrive working!
May we go over this again boys....that is the need to let off the gas when
engaging or disengaging the OD. What are the feelings on this subject. I
have never easied off the gas when putting in or out of OD. There doesn't
appear to be any need to do so, everything seems to work smoothly. Of course
in 3rd OD at high rpm's it makes sense not to take it out of OD but in 4th
what's the diff. I would think there would be more shock to the drive train
doing it the other way...just wondering....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 10:14 AM
Subject: Overdrive working!
>
> Hey Gang!
>
> Thanks to someone who posted a trouble shooting tech tip on here a long
time
> ago (I printed it and kept it) I have got my overdrive working!
>
> I found the problem was something that I never expected.
>
> The driver's switch on the dashboard was bad. That was the last thing I
> though would ever go out! Just goes to show you that with these cars you
> can't "assume" anything. As the old saying goes, assume makes an "ass"
out
> of "u" and "me".
>
> I took the Old Red Devil out for a 6 mile run down a real twisty two lane
> curvy Kentucky backroad and lo and behold I was clipping along at about 3G
> in 4th, let off the gas, hit the overdrive switch, and "swish" it dropped
> right in like I knew what I was doing! RPM's dropped to 2G and speed
> increased about 5 mph. Almost scared me for a second, cause I was
> approaching a tight left curve. I down shifted though and flew threw it
> like it wasn't even there. Beautiful feeling when things work right on
> these cars! Still need to change sparkplug wires, coil and maybe points
to
> stop a little miss but it's running!
>
> Don
> BN7
>
___________________________________________________________________________
Visit http://www.visto.com/info, your free web-based communications center.
Visto.com. Life on the Dot.
From "KIRK KVAM" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 15:36:23 -0700
Subject: Side Curtain Hole Mirrors
To All,
In my foggy memory it seems awhile back someone posted
info on side mirrors that fit into the side curtain holes in the doors.
It seems they posted source and part #'s.
Any response appreciated to this old (Corona) fogged brain.
Kirk Kvam
62BT7#3
60BN7L405 (302 Ford)
26"T"RoadsterPU
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 19:47:17 EDT
Subject: Re: air condtioning
In a message dated 7/25/00 5:15:52 PM, MegCC@aol.com writes:
<< d to then install air conditioning in it.
HAs anyone done this and can anyone offer any advice. >>
Message BJATE@pacbell.net next week ---- that's jim albeck. He's been party
to AC installations on several Healeys. He's at West Coast Meet this week,
and won't be back in LA til middle of next week.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From "JISah102" <ah102 at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 20:04:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Overdrive working!
Here's how I do it.....(and I believe the way Donald Healey intended it)
1: coming out of overdrive:
SLOWING DOWN: let off on the gas, flip OD switch off, blip the throttle
for a smooth downshift....no strain, effective engine braking, and sounds
good.
TO ACCELERATE: Simply switch the overdrive off while
accelerating....results in a smooth down shift, just like passing gear in an
automatic.
2: going into overdrive: Just flip the switch on while accelerating.
It's important for the throttle switch and the gearbox lockout switch to be
working properly.
Of course, Del Border does it different than anyone else in the whole
world.....OD in all four gears, and he uses them all very
effectively....Sounds just like formula 1 sequential.....
I use the clutch only under racing conditions downshifting from 3rd OD to
3rd direct.
Just My .02,,, Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Neil Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net>
To: Don Yarber <dyarber@dynasty.net>; Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 5:09 PM
Subject: Re: Overdrive working!
>
> May we go over this again boys....that is the need to let off the gas when
> engaging or disengaging the OD. What are the feelings on this subject. I
> have never easied off the gas when putting in or out of OD. There doesn't
> appear to be any need to do so, everything seems to work smoothly. Of
course
> in 3rd OD at high rpm's it makes sense not to take it out of OD but in 4th
> what's the diff. I would think there would be more shock to the drive
train
> doing it the other way...just wondering....Neil
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 10:14 AM
> Subject: Overdrive working!
>
>
> >
> > Hey Gang!
> >
> > Thanks to someone who posted a trouble shooting tech tip on here a long
> time
> > ago (I printed it and kept it) I have got my overdrive working!
> >
> > I found the problem was something that I never expected.
> >
> > The driver's switch on the dashboard was bad. That was the last thing I
> > though would ever go out! Just goes to show you that with these cars
you
> > can't "assume" anything. As the old saying goes, assume makes an "ass"
> out
> > of "u" and "me".
> >
> > I took the Old Red Devil out for a 6 mile run down a real twisty two
lane
> > curvy Kentucky backroad and lo and behold I was clipping along at about
3G
> > in 4th, let off the gas, hit the overdrive switch, and "swish" it
dropped
> > right in like I knew what I was doing! RPM's dropped to 2G and speed
> > increased about 5 mph. Almost scared me for a second, cause I was
> > approaching a tight left curve. I down shifted though and flew threw it
> > like it wasn't even there. Beautiful feeling when things work right on
> > these cars! Still need to change sparkplug wires, coil and maybe points
> to
> > stop a little miss but it's running!
> >
> > Don
> > BN7
> >
>
>
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 20:08:45 -0400
Subject: Side Curtain Hole Mirrors
Just purchased two black side mirrors from Harley Davidson. Cost is
$45.58, tax included for two.
Fit perfectly in side curtain holes in my 1960 3000, and can be screwed
in, as the paneling on the doors
is off. Fit into the holes on my 1955 100 but without cutting through
paneling can not be secured.
Harley Davidson has many different mirrors that will fit, and if you
would like a gold tiger on the rear
of the mirror, they have it.
I got the plain black.
Joe
From "Roger S. Bowker" <sextant at ma.ultranet.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 20:04:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Side Curtain Hole Mirrors
Contact British Car Specialists in Ca.
Norm and Dave Nock
phone 209 948-8767
email healeydoc@aol.com
I bought one of these "special mirror" mirrors a few years ago from BCS and
think it works great. I havn't seem them for sale anywhere else however.
It fits into the side curtain peg hole. No fender drilling, no door
drilling - no permanent damage.
Doesn't work with side curtains in place...
regards
Roger Bowker
Harvard, Ma
59BT7 - thermal choke and all
----- Original Message -----
From: KIRK KVAM <klkvam@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 6:36 PM
Subject: Side Curtain Hole Mirrors
|
| To All,
|
| In my foggy memory it seems awhile back someone posted
| info on side mirrors that fit into the side curtain holes in the doors.
|
| It seems they posted source and part #'s.
|
| Any response appreciated to this old (Corona) fogged brain.
|
| Kirk Kvam
| 62BT7#3
| 60BN7L405 (302 Ford)
| 26"T"RoadsterPU
|
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 20:28:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Need Quick Sale
Absolutely no flame intended, but I just can't help myself:
In a message dated 7/25/00 8:47:08 PM, tdooley@ispchannel.com writes:
<<I need to sell my 1959 100-6 ASAP. I have over $80,000
in receipts.>>
Hang down your head, Tom Dooley.
<<One divorce later>>
Any connection to the $80,000 in receipts?
<< my liquidity is in the minus column.>>
Again, any connection to the $80,000 in receipts?
Seriously, getting a decent price and the need to sell ASAP tend to run
counter to one another. You might try E-bay with a reserve set high enough
to meet your target sale price.
Best of Luck,
Rick
From "Roger S. Bowker" <sextant at ma.ultranet.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 20:18:22 -0400
Subject: Electronic ignition for BT7?
Is there anyone who's stuffed an electronic ignition into one of the
distributors found on the BN7, BT7 and early BJ7. These are DM6
distributors -
I know Moss sells one (Pertronix (?)) that fits into the later distributors
25D6 (BJ7 and BJ8). Since they specify the 25D6 distributor - I assume
there some sort space crunch going on.
If I can get my hands on the later distributor - are they interchangable?
tnx
Roger Bowker
Harvard, Ma
59BT7 - thermal choke and all
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 18:35:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Electronic ignition for BT7?
Yes, just did a couple of weeks ago. Went in easily and started first
time.... :-) . I static timed the car first with the old setup in place then
checked the timing at 600 rpm at 15deg. (as stated in the manual) It was
right on, then I put the new one in. All it took was a minimal adjustment
and bingo bango. I found a bit better idle and smoother acceleration. The
package was nice and neat and only added an extra wire which is not a big
stickout. The main time spent was to make it nice and neat. I kept all the
original stuff just in case. My car is positive ground and the Pertronics
number you want is LU165P12, this is for the DM6 dist. The listing is
actually for a Jag which used the same dist. I actually spoke to a
Pertronics tech before ordering and he said yes it would work in a Healey
with a DM6 dist. I suggest using a strobe that will allow you to dial in
advance, so you can set it at 15 deg. and get TDC at 600 rpm. I would also
suggest you check the idle with a digital tach because the one in the dash
probably ain't that accurate. It was a struggle to get it to idle at 600
rpm. There was a couple of other pieces in the package that I didn't know
what they were for so I just threw them out....story of my life. Any
guestions let me know. I ordered it from a dealer in Canada....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger S. Bowker" <sextant@ma.ultranet.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 5:18 PM
Subject: Electronic ignition for BT7?
>
> Is there anyone who's stuffed an electronic ignition into one of the
> distributors found on the BN7, BT7 and early BJ7. These are DM6
> distributors -
>
> I know Moss sells one (Pertronix (?)) that fits into the later
distributors
> 25D6 (BJ7 and BJ8). Since they specify the 25D6 distributor - I assume
> there some sort space crunch going on.
>
> If I can get my hands on the later distributor - are they interchangable?
>
> tnx
>
> Roger Bowker
> Harvard, Ma
> 59BT7 - thermal choke and all
>
>
>
>
>
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 18:04:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Overdrive working!
Sounds good to me...both ways...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "JISah102" <ah102@home.com>
To: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>; "Don Yarber"
<dyarber@dynasty.net>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 5:04 PM
Subject: Re: Overdrive working!
> Here's how I do it.....(and I believe the way Donald Healey intended it)
>
> 1: coming out of overdrive:
>
> SLOWING DOWN: let off on the gas, flip OD switch off, blip the throttle
> for a smooth downshift....no strain, effective engine braking, and sounds
> good.
>
> TO ACCELERATE: Simply switch the overdrive off while
> accelerating....results in a smooth down shift, just like passing gear in
an
> automatic.
>
> 2: going into overdrive: Just flip the switch on while accelerating.
>
> It's important for the throttle switch and the gearbox lockout switch to
be
> working properly.
>
> Of course, Del Border does it different than anyone else in the whole
> world.....OD in all four gears, and he uses them all very
> effectively....Sounds just like formula 1 sequential.....
>
> I use the clutch only under racing conditions downshifting from 3rd OD to
> 3rd direct.
>
> Just My .02,,, Jim
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Neil Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net>
> To: Don Yarber <dyarber@dynasty.net>; Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 5:09 PM
> Subject: Re: Overdrive working!
>
>
> >
> > May we go over this again boys....that is the need to let off the gas
when
> > engaging or disengaging the OD. What are the feelings on this subject. I
> > have never easied off the gas when putting in or out of OD. There
doesn't
> > appear to be any need to do so, everything seems to work smoothly. Of
> course
> > in 3rd OD at high rpm's it makes sense not to take it out of OD but in
4th
> > what's the diff. I would think there would be more shock to the drive
> train
> > doing it the other way...just wondering....Neil
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Don Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>
> > To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 10:14 AM
> > Subject: Overdrive working!
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Hey Gang!
> > >
> > > Thanks to someone who posted a trouble shooting tech tip on here a
long
> > time
> > > ago (I printed it and kept it) I have got my overdrive working!
> > >
> > > I found the problem was something that I never expected.
> > >
> > > The driver's switch on the dashboard was bad. That was the last thing
I
> > > though would ever go out! Just goes to show you that with these cars
> you
> > > can't "assume" anything. As the old saying goes, assume makes an
"ass"
> > out
> > > of "u" and "me".
> > >
> > > I took the Old Red Devil out for a 6 mile run down a real twisty two
> lane
> > > curvy Kentucky backroad and lo and behold I was clipping along at
about
> 3G
> > > in 4th, let off the gas, hit the overdrive switch, and "swish" it
> dropped
> > > right in like I knew what I was doing! RPM's dropped to 2G and speed
> > > increased about 5 mph. Almost scared me for a second, cause I was
> > > approaching a tight left curve. I down shifted though and flew threw
it
> > > like it wasn't even there. Beautiful feeling when things work right
on
> > > these cars! Still need to change sparkplug wires, coil and maybe
points
> > to
> > > stop a little miss but it's running!
> > >
> > > Don
> > > BN7
> > >
> >
> >
>
From RobertH148 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 21:46:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Overdrive working!
I was instructed ease off the gas when going into overdrive since the revs
will drop and od will engage smoothly.
Once into overdrive, I turn off the switch and the car remains in OD. It will
still drop out when I downshift to 2nd and then go back into overdrive when I
shift up to 3rd - all with the switch still in the off position. The car will
stay in overdrive until I give it 3/4 throttle in 3rd or 4th and it will then
drop out and return to normal.
I was told by my mechanic that this is the proper setting.
Bob Humphreys
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 12:03:21 +1000
Subject: The Magic Overdrive
Greetings
Every day as I come to work I look forward to my day's helping of Healey email.
Some are interesting, some informative and some are funny, but I can say that
even after nearly 30 years of Healey and Austin-Healey ownership it is never
boring.
I see humour in a lot of things and in my mind's eye I can see my US friends
tip toeing around, blipping the throttle here and there when they change in or
out of overdrive.
The BN3/1 is fitted with a 100S gearbox plus a 28% OD. Like the engine it is a
robust piece of machinery. I have the throttle switch set up so that it acts
like a change down in an automatic transmission and I love it.
There is nothing better then sweeping up a hill in OD top, pushing the throttle
for direct top and just as you pass the open window of the modern econbox or
even better an MGB, lift off for OD top again. The sound of the howling six is
magic and with my wife gritting her teeth and the boys squealing with delight
in the back, life is bliss.
Regards to you all from mid winter here in Sydney, Australia
Patrick Quinn
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 22:26:39 EDT
Subject: Re: air conditioning
In a message dated 7/26/00 6:15:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com writes:
<< A BJ8 with rollup windows will have less leaks >>
Ken--
I see that I said BT7--I meant BJ7! Nevertheless, much of my problem was
Miami's hot climate (hence the air conditioning in the first place!). I am
sure you will do better in Sacramento, especially in the non-summer months.
Good luck with it--Michael
From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 22:39:42 EDT
Subject: Engine...was machinist needed
Listers,
Thank you all for the info regarding local machinists for my engine rebuild.
I have not yet decided, but I do have the engine disassembled...how else
could I move it! I am happy to report that the crank looks great with
absolutely no scoring. Minor wear on the bearings. The pistons are also
standard, so I will not have to get liners...just oversize pistons. No ridge
in the cylinders either. The cam looks very good as well with no scoring of
the lobes, however I have yet to check them with the micrometer. The lifters
look ok, but have a little bit of pitting on the first two...probably a
rehardening for the lot. Maybe the rocker shaft will be trashed so I can get
the roller set from Welch! I have to do something trick somewhere!
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8...awaiting engine rebuild
XJ6...rear springs and wheel bearings being shipped
Miata...too easy
From JSoderling at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 23:34:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Side Curtain Hole Mirrors
kirk,
The best mirror can be purchased at you local Harley-Daivdson dealer. It is
the perfect size for the side curtain hole, has a nice shoulder to sit on and
HD accessories are good quality chrome. And I paid under $15 at the HD
dealer for one about eight months ago.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 20:52:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Carpets
Try BAS LTD in Vancouver, BC. They have it in "all" colors. They color
the black to what ever you want. I just bought a complete interior for a
2 seater, my color was red (and there are 4 million shades of red) I was a
little disappointed in the shade they chose, but their quality is very
good. You just have to be very specific on the shade of the color. They
will send samples.
Call them at 1-800-661-5377. You will probably get their answering
machine, but stick with it. They are very busy, and expanding. I just
talked w/ Tony Hazell, the Managing Director, and he apologizes for calls
going to the machine. This is a British company w/ a shop in Vancouver,
BC. Other than the slight misunderstanding on the color of the Armacord, I
am very happy w/ the rest of the interior.
----------
> From: Editorgary@aol.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Carpets
> Date: Monday, July 24, 2000 10:52 PM
>
>
>
> In a message dated 7/24/00 2:59:49 PM, MJohnson@cfworks.com writes:
>
> << I am a ways off from this stage, but I am wondering about the Armacord
that
>
> is used to cover the area behind the seats of the two-seater cars. Is it
>
> available in colors? Maybe I'm just lame, but I don't see it included in
>
> the descriptions of the seat, panel or carpet kits. I'll be going with
>
> blue. I've seen Armacord for the trunk area in black only.
>
> Thanks for the collective wisdom and experience... >>
>
> To my knowledge, it's only available in black. The only solution is to
buy
> it (Healey Surgeons, for one, has been selling it by the yard) and have a
> good trim shop dye it to match your vinyl, and then bind it for you. If
> possible, find a car that can be copied.
> Cheers
> Gary
From timoran at ticnet.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 18:18:54 GMT
Subject: air conditioning (fwd)
Ken,
Since Prez. Don left on vacation this AM, I'll pick up the banner.
What you will need is a "Texas Cooler", especially after all the flames you
are getting about installing A/C.
PS: As soon as I get my hardtop fitted, I'm putting it in too. Here in
North Texas, it has been over 100F (that's 38C for the tweed hats)for the
past week. (Hmmm... 38C... That's a nice number...)
You can see one at www.nthac.austin1.com. Details for obtaining one are
there too.
We have'em, we use'em and we love'em....
Tim
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersv.edu>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 21:59:25 -0400
Subject: RE: Brake Fluid
From: dickb@cheerful.com
OK, I'll bite first
From: Bill
Some issues never die. And perhaps this is a good thing. The last word is
usually wrong. To review this debate try listquest.com and spend the next 3
days reading the interminable cross talk from the past. For the record,
I've had the same girling fluid in my brake system for 6 years and I haven't
failed to stop for anything yet. Back when I was young and dumb and didn't
know what was up I kept a can of standard brake fluid in the boot along with
a gallon of water and 6 tool boxes. I loved the car, but didnt' trust it.
On my way to a Virginia meet the brake fluid can managed to short out the
battery cutoff switch. Car dies on the D.C. beltway. After much
investigation with a friend who knew what he was doing we replaced the coil
(a useless gesture) and then he found the can of brake fluid. Remove can,
car starts. So many Healeys passed me on the Washington beltway that I was
awarded the "Tough Luck" award by DMH himself. I didn't admit to the
contents of the can, but it was great to shake the hand of the man himself,
even if the cause was my own ignorance.
Bill Moyer, BJ7 known as "Chimera" a lion in front, a goat behind the wheel
and a snake's tail draggin' the exhaust behind. Goat's aren't too bright.
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 20:03:05 +0800
Subject: Re: Engine...was machinist needed
Chris
Make your trick a full balance of the engine. Works wonders for little cost.
Better value than a set of roller rockers.
Just my .02c worth
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 being reassembled after a nut and bolt restoration.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Csooch1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2000 10:39 AM
Subject: Engine...was machinist needed
>
> Listers,
> Thank you all for the info regarding local machinists for my engine
rebuild.
> I have not yet decided, but I do have the engine disassembled...how else
> could I move it! I am happy to report that the crank looks great with
> absolutely no scoring. Minor wear on the bearings. The pistons are also
> standard, so I will not have to get liners...just oversize pistons. No
ridge
> in the cylinders either. The cam looks very good as well with no scoring
of
> the lobes, however I have yet to check them with the micrometer. The
lifters
> look ok, but have a little bit of pitting on the first two...probably a
> rehardening for the lot. Maybe the rocker shaft will be trashed so I can
get
> the roller set from Welch! I have to do something trick somewhere!
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8...awaiting engine rebuild
> XJ6...rear springs and wheel bearings being shipped
> Miata...too easy
>
From "Paul Leeks" <paul_leeks at hotmail.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 13:22:32 GMT
Subject: engine conundrum
Dear all
This is my first visit – so I thought I would start with a conundrum!
I have a question regarding the origin of the engine of my 1957 100/6 which
seems to me to be a contradiction of parts.
It has a standard, early 100/6, two-port head sitting on what looks like a
standard 3000 3 litre block.
My heritage certificate states that the original engine number was
1C-H/44779. However, the current block has the number 29WA-2483 (which I
believe is not a Healey engine code).
Does any know where this block may have originated? Has some PO fitted an
old Westminster engine to a Healey or do I have a long lost one-off R&D
prototype Healey which is now worth thousands of pounds (Ha Ha).
All contributions gratefully received.
Cheers
Paul Leeks
1957 100/6
________________________________________________________________________
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 13:46:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Overdrive working!
In a message dated 7/26/00 4:37:14 PM, ah102@home.com writes:
<<
SLOWING DOWN: let off on the gas, flip OD switch off, blip the throttle
for a smooth downshift....no strain, effective engine braking, and sounds
good. >>
One alternative to that that was used by the rally drivers, so I'm told. As
you're slowing down for a corner that will require acceleration out, flip out
of overdrive -- the overdrive will stay engaged since you don't have the
thottle down. Then, as you come out of the corner and need both hands on the
wheel, when you accelerate, the overdrive will kick out automatically and
give you that "downshift" exactly where you need it.
Cheers
Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 14:15:18 EDT
Subject: Concours Car Performance
>From the Rendezvous west coast meet:
Neglected to mention that the winner in the unmodified 100-six/3000 class on
the quarter-mile speed run, with a speed of 89 mph, was John Bumpus, driving
the freshly restored black BJ8 which had just scored Gold in concours the day
before. Third place in that class on the speed run, at 87.2 mph was also a
concours car that had scored gold at Skamania eight years ago -- the older
concours car car also took third in class on the autocross (after driving 850
miles to the meet).
I think this may be taken as proof that cars restored to original specs and
maintained that way can perform as well as any Healey on the road.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 14:09:41 EDT
Subject: Rendezvous Report - was magic overdrive
In a message dated 7/26/00 6:21:34 PM, QUINNP@det.nsw.edu.au writes:
<<
Regards to you all from mid winter here in Sydney, Australia
Patrick Quinn >>
Well, you could be with all of us on the West Coast at the Rendezvous Healey
Meet on the Washington state coastline, where the wind is howling off the
ocean two hundred yards in front of the hotel, and the rain is varying from
heavy to blown mist today. We were fortunate to have cloudy weather for the
popular choice show on Tuesday, then a very attractive partly sunny day for
the autocross and speed runs yesterday, while the ladies took the ferry to
Westport for shopping.
Unfortunately, the scenic tour this morning and the poker run for this
afternoon will be sparsely attended, but everyone is lingering over their
breakfasts in the dining room, which might seque smoothly into lunch,
enjoying chatting with old and new friends. Should be clear, however, for
the trips home.
Cheers from the West Coast
Gary Anderson
From JustBrits at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 14:27:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Concours Car Performance
In a message dated 07/27/2000 1:17:06 PM Central Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<<
I think this may be taken as proof that cars restored to original specs and
maintained that way can perform as well as any Healey on the road.
>>
AMEN, Gary!!
Ed
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 14:25:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Rendezvous Report - was magic overdrive
Got to love that 90 days of sunshine weather of Western Washington
state, problem is the rest of the days...
Mike Brouillette
resident of Tacoma WA 1973-1976
At 02:09 PM 7/27/00 -0400, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 7/26/00 6:21:34 PM, QUINNP@det.nsw.edu.au writes:
>
><<
>Regards to you all from mid winter here in Sydney, Australia
>
>Patrick Quinn >>
>
>Well, you could be with all of us on the West Coast at the Rendezvous Healey
>Meet on the Washington state coastline, where the wind is howling off the
>ocean two hundred yards in front of the hotel, and the rain is varying from
>heavy to blown mist today. We were fortunate to have cloudy weather for the
>popular choice show on Tuesday, then a very attractive partly sunny day for
>the autocross and speed runs yesterday, while the ladies took the ferry to
>Westport for shopping.
>
>Unfortunately, the scenic tour this morning and the poker run for this
>afternoon will be sparsely attended, but everyone is lingering over their
>breakfasts in the dining room, which might seque smoothly into lunch,
>enjoying chatting with old and new friends. Should be clear, however, for
>the trips home.
>Cheers from the West Coast
>Gary Anderson
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 12:44:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Rendezvous Report - was magic overdrive
The weekend is supposed to be good....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "M Brouillette" <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <QUINNP@det.nsw.edu.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2000 11:25 AM
Subject: Re: Rendezvous Report - was magic overdrive
>
> Got to love that 90 days of sunshine weather of Western Washington
> state, problem is the rest of the days...
>
>
> Mike Brouillette
> resident of Tacoma WA 1973-1976
>
>
>
>
> At 02:09 PM 7/27/00 -0400, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> >In a message dated 7/26/00 6:21:34 PM, QUINNP@det.nsw.edu.au writes:
> >
> ><<
> >Regards to you all from mid winter here in Sydney, Australia
> >
> >Patrick Quinn >>
> >
> >Well, you could be with all of us on the West Coast at the Rendezvous
Healey
> >Meet on the Washington state coastline, where the wind is howling off the
> >ocean two hundred yards in front of the hotel, and the rain is varying
from
> >heavy to blown mist today. We were fortunate to have cloudy weather for
the
> >popular choice show on Tuesday, then a very attractive partly sunny day
for
> >the autocross and speed runs yesterday, while the ladies took the ferry
to
> >Westport for shopping.
> >
> >Unfortunately, the scenic tour this morning and the poker run for this
> >afternoon will be sparsely attended, but everyone is lingering over their
> >breakfasts in the dining room, which might seque smoothly into lunch,
> >enjoying chatting with old and new friends. Should be clear, however,
for
> >the trips home.
> >Cheers from the West Coast
> >Gary Anderson
>
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 16:17:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid
Over 49,000 trouble free miles, never failed to stop. Never topped off the brake
master. It's been eleven years. Never worried about bubbles unless there was a
lack of them in my beer. Dot 5. My 2 cents.
Jim Dalglish
1960 BT7
99 Dodge Ram 4x4 Cummins more fun than I care to admit
94 Bimini Marine 29' the last one they built.
William Moyer wrote:
>
>
> From: dickb@cheerful.com
>
> OK, I'll bite first
>
> From: Bill
>
> Some issues never die. And perhaps this is a good thing. The last word is
> usually wrong. To review this debate try listquest.com and spend the next 3
> days reading the interminable cross talk from the past. For the record,
> I've had the same girling fluid in my brake system for 6 years and I haven't
> failed to stop for anything yet. Back when I was young and dumb and didn't
> know what was up I kept a can of standard brake fluid in the boot along with
> a gallon of water and 6 tool boxes. I loved the car, but didnt' trust it.
> On my way to a Virginia meet the brake fluid can managed to short out the
> battery cutoff switch. Car dies on the D.C. beltway. After much
> investigation with a friend who knew what he was doing we replaced the coil
> (a useless gesture) and then he found the can of brake fluid. Remove can,
> car starts. So many Healeys passed me on the Washington beltway that I was
> awarded the "Tough Luck" award by DMH himself. I didn't admit to the
> contents of the can, but it was great to shake the hand of the man himself,
> even if the cause was my own ignorance.
>
> Bill Moyer, BJ7 known as "Chimera" a lion in front, a goat behind the wheel
> and a snake's tail draggin' the exhaust behind. Goat's aren't too bright.
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 15:00:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid
Jim,
It's way past time to drain and flush your system, an ounce of
prevention........
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "James B Dalglish" <leaker@exit109.com>
To: "William Moyer" <William.Moyer@millersv.edu>
Cc: <dickb@cheerful.com>; "'austin healey list '" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2000 2:17 PM
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid
>
> Over 49,000 trouble free miles, never failed to stop. Never topped off the
brake
> master. It's been eleven years. Never worried about bubbles unless there
was a
> lack of them in my beer. Dot 5. My 2 cents.
>
> Jim Dalglish
> 1960 BT7
> 99 Dodge Ram 4x4 Cummins more fun than I care to admit
> 94 Bimini Marine 29' the last one they built.
>
> William Moyer wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > From: dickb@cheerful.com
> >
> > OK, I'll bite first
> >
> > From: Bill
> >
> > Some issues never die. And perhaps this is a good thing. The last word
is
> > usually wrong. To review this debate try listquest.com and spend the
next 3
> > days reading the interminable cross talk from the past. For the record,
> > I've had the same girling fluid in my brake system for 6 years and I
haven't
> > failed to stop for anything yet. Back when I was young and dumb and
didn't
> > know what was up I kept a can of standard brake fluid in the boot along
with
> > a gallon of water and 6 tool boxes. I loved the car, but didnt' trust
it.
> > On my way to a Virginia meet the brake fluid can managed to short out
the
> > battery cutoff switch. Car dies on the D.C. beltway. After much
> > investigation with a friend who knew what he was doing we replaced the
coil
> > (a useless gesture) and then he found the can of brake fluid. Remove
can,
> > car starts. So many Healeys passed me on the Washington beltway that I
was
> > awarded the "Tough Luck" award by DMH himself. I didn't admit to the
> > contents of the can, but it was great to shake the hand of the man
himself,
> > even if the cause was my own ignorance.
> >
> > Bill Moyer, BJ7 known as "Chimera" a lion in front, a goat behind the
wheel
> > and a snake's tail draggin' the exhaust behind. Goat's aren't too
bright.
>
>
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 16:07:51 -0500
Subject: Re: engine conundrum
Hi Paul,
How interesting! The engine does sound like it came from a saloon car.
Does anyone know the prefix codes for Austin and Wolseley saloons of the
period? It is likely that the head is from that car also, because the
'gallery' head continued in use on saloon cars even after the change to
three litres. Why the factory chose to make two different heads for the same
engine is a complete mystery, and may help explain why the C-series engine
was so expensive to produce. You will find some detail differences in the
engine compared to the normal Healey unit. Externally, it may lack the tach.
drive pedestal (unless PO retro-fitted it), and the oil filter head may
differ (ditto). Internally, the compression ratio will probably be lower,
and the camshaft may be milder too. But, if you are rebuilding the unit
anyway, these can be rectified. It may also have a heavier flywheel. (Can
you believe it?) I'm a fan of three litre units in 100/6s, so you may be
better off. (Flame away!) Now, is your car supposed to have the gallery
head? Happy Healeying!---Peter (BMC Restorations)
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Leeks <paul_leeks@hotmail.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, July 27, 2000 8:50 AM
Subject: engine conundrum
Dear all
This is my first visit – so I thought I would start with a conundrum!
I have a question regarding the origin of the engine of my 1957 100/6
which
seems to me to be a contradiction of parts.
It has a standard, early 100/6, two-port head sitting on what looks like
a
standard 3000 3 litre block.
My heritage certificate states that the original engine number was
1C-H/44779. However, the current block has the number 29WA-2483 (which
I
believe is not a Healey engine code).
Does any know where this block may have originated? Has some PO fitted
an
old Westminster engine to a Healey or do I have a long lost one-off R&D
prototype Healey which is now worth thousands of pounds (Ha Ha).
All contributions gratefully received.
Cheers
Paul Leeks
1957 100/6
________________________________________________________________________
From "Jeff Brantley" <jbrantley at redshift.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 14:16:06 -0700
Subject: BJ8 Tires?
It's time to replace some old Firestones (6.00 x 15) on the BJ8....any
recommendations for a solid tire (and proper sizing)? Thanks.
Jeff B
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: QUINNP@det.nsw.edu.au <QUINNP@det.nsw.edu.au>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, July 27, 2000 11:50 AM
Subject: Rendezvous Report - was magic overdrive
>
>
>In a message dated 7/26/00 6:21:34 PM, QUINNP@det.nsw.edu.au writes:
>
><<
>Regards to you all from mid winter here in Sydney, Australia
>
>Patrick Quinn >>
>
>Well, you could be with all of us on the West Coast at the Rendezvous
Healey
>Meet on the Washington state coastline, where the wind is howling off the
>ocean two hundred yards in front of the hotel, and the rain is varying from
>heavy to blown mist today. We were fortunate to have cloudy weather for the
>popular choice show on Tuesday, then a very attractive partly sunny day for
>the autocross and speed runs yesterday, while the ladies took the ferry to
>Westport for shopping.
>
>Unfortunately, the scenic tour this morning and the poker run for this
>afternoon will be sparsely attended, but everyone is lingering over their
>breakfasts in the dining room, which might seque smoothly into lunch,
>enjoying chatting with old and new friends. Should be clear, however, for
>the trips home.
>Cheers from the West Coast
>Gary Anderson
>
From "Robin Astle" <rastle at freenet.co.uk>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 23:11:42 +0100
Subject: Fw: engine conundrum
Paul,
You have a Westminster engine, all of which had the two port head. The
bottom is identical to the 3000MKI though, and often in better condition as
they have had an easier life than a Healey, especially if it was from an
auto.
Regards,
Robin Astle.
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Leeks <paul_leeks@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2000 2:22 PM
Subject: engine conundrum
>
> Dear all
>
> This is my first visit - so I thought I would start with a conundrum!
>
> I have a question regarding the origin of the engine of my 1957 100/6
which
> seems to me to be a contradiction of parts.
>
> It has a standard, early 100/6, two-port head sitting on what looks like a
> standard 3000 3 litre block.
>
> My heritage certificate states that the original engine number was
> 1C-H/44779. However, the current block has the number 29WA-2483 (which I
> believe is not a Healey engine code).
>
> Does any know where this block may have originated? Has some PO fitted an
> old Westminster engine to a Healey or do I have a long lost one-off R&D
> prototype Healey which is now worth thousands of pounds (Ha Ha).
>
> All contributions gratefully received.
>
> Cheers
>
> Paul Leeks
> 1957 100/6
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 21:29:20 -0400
Subject: Re:Cruzin With Carlos
Hey Carlos,
Give me a shout tonight. Need to not keep losin your address.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 19:45:30 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Tires?
hi jeff-
175x15 michelins from british wire wheel in santa cruz, ca.
happy healeying,
jerry wall
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Brantley" <jbrantley@redshift.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: BJ8 Tires?
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 14:16:06 -0700
It's time to replace some old Firestones (6.00 x 15) on the BJ8....any
recommendations for a solid tire (and proper sizing)? Thanks.
Jeff B
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: QUINNP@det.nsw.edu.au <QUINNP@det.nsw.edu.au>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, July 27, 2000 11:50 AM
Subject: Rendezvous Report - was magic overdrive
>
>
>In a message dated 7/26/00 6:21:34 PM, QUINNP@det.nsw.edu.au writes:
>
><<
>Regards to you all from mid winter here in Sydney, Australia
>
>Patrick Quinn >>
>
>Well, you could be with all of us on the West Coast at the Rendezvous
Healey
>Meet on the Washington state coastline, where the wind is howling off the
>ocean two hundred yards in front of the hotel, and the rain is varying from
>heavy to blown mist today. We were fortunate to have cloudy weather for the
>popular choice show on Tuesday, then a very attractive partly sunny day for
>the autocross and speed runs yesterday, while the ladies took the ferry to
>Westport for shopping.
>
>Unfortunately, the scenic tour this morning and the poker run for this
>afternoon will be sparsely attended, but everyone is lingering over their
>breakfasts in the dining room, which might seque smoothly into lunch,
>enjoying chatting with old and new friends. Should be clear, however, for
>the trips home.
>Cheers from the West Coast
>Gary Anderson
>
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 20:07:47 -0500
Subject: The Old Red Devil
Hi Gang:
Good news again.
After a fitful ordeal putting new spark plug and coil wire on (I dropped the
carbon thing that goes from the coil wire to the rotor arm and it went under
the distributor plate) Finally figured out how to make it stay on.
Anyway. Fitted with new spark plug wires and a new coil wire the "Old Red
Devil" ran like a goosed Moose.
Don
BN7
From TDTR3 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 21:15:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Electronic ignition for BT7?
In a message dated 7/26/2000 5:42:48 PM, sextant@ma.ultranet.com writes:
<< Is there anyone who's stuffed an electronic ignition into one of the
distributors found on the BN7, BT7 and early BJ7. These are DM6
distributors -
>>
From the box:
part # LU162A
Moss # 222-415
This is for DM6 with vacumn advance, and has been converted to negative
ground.
Ken
58 BN4
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 23:35:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Fwd: Re: Overdrive working!
---- you wrote:
> Hi, Dick --
> Your text indicates you intended to address the whole list, but you directed
> it only to me. I'll answer the question about why backing up does not
> damage your O/D.
>
> There is a switch actuated by the gearshift lever. When you put the lever
> into 3rd or 4th, the switch closes to apply power to the O/D solenoid. In
> any other gear (including reverse), the switch is open and no power can get
> to the solenoid, hence no O/D.
>
> What if the gearshift lever switch stuck in the "closed" position, or
> shorted? Then the solenoid would be powered independently of the gear
> selected any time the dash switch was in O/D. Now, if you put 'er in
> reverse and back up, you have O/D engaged. According to the book, your O/D
> will now go "BO-I-N-N-G-G!!!"
>
> The light I installed merely reminds me to turn off the dash switch before I
> back up, in case the gearshift switch did not open. It serves that purpose
> very well, and I consider it as insurance. A side benefit I discovered when
> my O/D quit working suddenly was that the light told me (since it did not
> come on when I turned on the dash switch) that the problem was electrical
> and not hydraulic, and that the problem was upstream of the gearshift switch
> (thus, not the solenoid or the switch itself.).
>
> Happy Healeying!
> Steve
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dickb@cheerful.com <dickb@cheerful.com>
> To: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
> Date: Thursday, July 27, 2000 2:28 PM
> Subject: Re: Overdrive working!
>
>
> >Reading this made me suddenly think to ask the List - especially you OD
> experts.
> >
> >5-6 years ago I decided to by-pass my throttle switch. As a result I can
> activate the OD from the Dash alone.
> >
> >I raely downshift from 4th OD to 4th non-OD and if I do I blip the throttle
> by foot or flick the dash switch during a hesitattion in Nuetral.
> >
> >I usually stay out of OD when driving around town and only flick the dash
> switch when I hit the highway and want to reduce the RPMs.
> >
> >Now here's the question: If I come off the highway - about a mile from my
> house - and stay in OD and drive straight into my garage - leaving the
> dashswitch in the OD position, WHY DON'T I DO TERRIBLE THINGS TO MY OD WHEN
> I BACK OUT OF THE GARAGE, i.e. in Reverse with the dashswitch in the OD
> position?
> >
> >I have my own theories about this NOW - the whole subject just came into my
> conscious zone and I had a worrisome few minutes when I read Steve's post,
> but in reviewing the last six years and the hundreds of times I must have
> done what I describe without any damage, I calmed down.
> >
> >For those who are curious, I found blipping the throttle to ENGAGE the OD
> after flipping the dashswitch to be unnecessary (and not protective of
> anything that I could figure) and having to blip the throttle to speed up
> the engine when DISengaging the OD didn't match my driving habits,i.e. I
> downshift to 3rdOD from 4thOD and from 3rdOD to 2nd. I would never consider
> downshifting from 4thOD to 4th for engine-braking, or increasing RPM for
> power, purposes.
> >
> >Thanks in Advance for your explanations
> >
> >DickB
> >
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi, Don --
> >> A few weeks ago, I started from home at 3:00 am on the way to a British
> Car
> >> Day in Maryland. I stopped before leaving town to get some coffee at a
> >> convenience store. The O/D was working normally before then, but when I
> >> left the convenience store it wouldn't work at all. Because I have
> >> installed a light on the dash above the O/D switch that comes on when the
> >> switch is turned on (helps me remember not to back up with the switch
> on),
> >> and since the light wasn't on, I knew the problem had to be electrical
> and
> >> not hydraulic, and that the problem had to be somewhere up to the switch
> >> (and not, for instance the gear lever switch or solenoid). It turned out
> >> that one of the terminals on the dash switch had broken off. Although I
> had
> >> to drive the 350 miles to Maryland without overdrive, I was fortunate
> enough
> >> to find a replacement switch sold by one of the vendors at the car show.
> >> But, even if I hadn't found a switch I was going to buy a cheapo
> single-pole
> >> switch of some sort at the local auto supply house, just to get me home.
> >>
> >> Was the wiring diagram I sent you any help at all with your problem?
> >>
> >> Steve Byers
> >> HBJ8L/36666
> >> Havelock, NC
> >>
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Don Yarber <dyarber@dynasty.net>
> >> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >> Date: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 1:23 PM
> >> Subject: Overdrive working!
> >>
> >>
> >> >
> >> >Hey Gang!
> >> >
> >> >Thanks to someone who posted a trouble shooting tech tip on here a long
> >> time
> >> >ago (I printed it and kept it) I have got my overdrive working!
> >> >
> >> >I found the problem was something that I never expected.
> >> >
> >> >The driver's switch on the dashboard was bad. That was the last thing I
> >> >though would ever go out! Just goes to show you that with these cars
> you
> >> >can't "assume" anything. As the old saying goes, assume makes an "ass"
> out
> >> >of "u" and "me".
> >> >
> >> >I took the Old Red Devil out for a 6 mile run down a real twisty two
> lane
> >> >curvy Kentucky backroad and lo and behold I was clipping along at about
> 3G
> >> >in 4th, let off the gas, hit the overdrive switch, and "swish" it
> dropped
> >> >right in like I knew what I was doing! RPM's dropped to 2G and speed
> >> >increased about 5 mph. Almost scared me for a second, cause I was
> >> >approaching a tight left curve. I down shifted though and flew threw it
> >> >like it wasn't even there. Beautiful feeling when things work right on
> >> >these cars! Still need to change sparkplug wires, coil and maybe points
> to
> >> >stop a little miss but it's running!
> >> >
> >> >Don
> >> >BN7
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >
> >
> >----------------------------------------------------------------
> >Get your free email from AltaVista at http://altavista.iname.com
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From David Neale <dneale at pacbell.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 07:15:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Flash or no Flash
I am a recent healey owner and member of "The List".
Thanks for all the tips and info!
I recently purchased a 1960 BN7 which, according to my new BMCIHT cert was
built "31-March-1-April 1959". The boot lid is not fitted with a "3000
Flash" below the "Austin Healey" sign. Gary Andersons wonderful book
suggests that the "3000 flash" was fitted "from introduction of the 3000 to
the end of production".
For authenticity reasons should I add the Flash. From inside inspection,
the boot lid does not show signs of any additional holes below the "AH" sign
that give a hint of its previous existence.
Mine appears to be an early production model. Were any productions cars
built without the Flash?
Thank you.
Dave
H-BN7-L/472
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 00:00:42 EDT
Subject: Suspension upgrade
So. Lately I've been considering the Putkes Fahrspass (Bilstein kit) for my
100-Six, BN6, that I drive A LOT.
For those that don't know the car, it's at http://members.aol.com/wilko,
where you can see it and read about the stuff that's been done to it.
A few years ago the whole suspension was rebuilt with all new springs and a
stiffer antiroll bar. Since then it had been wearing 15 X 6 Minilite replicas
with 195/60 tires (pretty low profile, aggressive tread pattern).
A couple weeks ago I fitted a set of 165 SR tires on the original steel disc
wheels to see how it would feel. It was pretty interesting to drive on the
skinny little tires and the car was very "chuckable" as the old literature
says. The gearing was right where it should be (the tires being tall as
original) and the car has a 28% overdrive pushing a 3.54:1 rear end.
Well, Today I made up my mind about the Bilstein kit. All of the typical
limitations of the Healey's live axle and so-so dampers have been interesting
and a bit fun with lots of the sideways turns, wheel spinning, and axle hop
that one would expect. Today, while driving at an estimated speed of 90 MPH
(good cruising speed, 3,300 RPM) I hit a particularly obnoxious bridge joint
that shook me to my core. Then, while cruising quietly through my little
neighborhood I could hear something banging around in the rear end of the
car. When I got home I got out the flashlight and found that my right rear
damper had actually sheared one mount bolt and busted off the mounting flange
for the other bolt.
It's going to be Bilsteins for me. I'll let you all know how it feels when I
get done with that project.
The kit is a bolt-on kit, and, just like everything else, I'll be able to go
back to stock if I need to later.
Rick-but it's so fun to drive it hard-Wilkins
San Diego
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 19:52:31 +0100
Subject: Re: engine conundrum
>
>This is my first visit so I thought I would start with a conundrum!
>
>I have a question regarding the origin of the engine of my 1957 100/6 which
>seems to me to be a contradiction of parts.
>
>It has a standard, early 100/6, two-port head sitting on what looks like a
>standard 3000 3 litre block.
>
>My heritage certificate states that the original engine number was
>1C-H/44779. However, the current block has the number 29WA-2483 (which I
>believe is not a Healey engine code).
I would agree with you here, 29 means that it is a 2912cc engine similar
but not identical in every respect to an A-H 3000 engine. WA most likely
stand for Wolseley and/or Austin. If so the engine would have come from
either an Austin A99, Wolseley 6/99, Austin A110 or Wolseley 6/110
saloon built a little later than the Westminster. The A99 and 6/99 were
very similar other than the badge, grill etc. and trim level. They were
built from July 1959 to October 1961.
The A110 and 6/110 with new bumpers, longer wheelbase (2"), wider track
and central floor gear change (but no engine change) ran from September
1961 to May 1964.
With a lowish engine number 2483 I would guess that your engine came
from an Austin A99 or Wolseley 6/99.
All the best
>
>Does any know where this block may have originated? Has some PO fitted an
>old Westminster engine to a Healey or do I have a long lost one-off R&D
>prototype Healey which is now worth thousands of pounds (Ha Ha).
>
>All contributions gratefully received.
>
>Cheers
>
>Paul Leeks
>1957 100/6
>
>
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>
--
John Harper
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 05:30:50 -0500
Subject: Hot Rod
Well Guys... the Hot Rod magazine article on the Camaro came out
Yesterday... it's in the September issue and starts on Page 88 .... Talks
first about the East Coast Timing association and then it goes into 3 pages
on the Camaro....
The Writer took some literary license with times and Dates.... but the
honest answer is that Tom Long is one of the folks who really inspired me to
start this quest and quit talking about it... It's been about the most
wonderful Two years of my life.... We leave for Bonneville in a Week... but
if we don't get more then a Mock Pass down the Salt this Year it's been a
Magical Season...
The Trip out to California neted me a 205.8 record at Muroc Dry Lake...(old
Record 171... closest competion...186mph) The Camaro's First Pass over
Two.... Then we went back up to Maxton.... and Ran 200.445 with my Partner
driving to get him in the East Coast Two Club.... ( I am the President of
our 2 club and Handing Brad that Hat was HUGE to me personally )
Then out comes this Hot Rod Magazine article.... Oh and the First Part for
the Bugeye Race car was Fabricated Yesterday in California.... My Front End
was Molded from Doug Odom's Bugeye..... which is the Only other Healey
Racing on the Salt.... It should be here in August.... Maybe late Next Year
I can be running around towing a Healey Finally....
Keith Turk ( Ecta Two Club... Muroc Two Club... and Dreaming of Bonneville)
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 07:52:18 EDT
Subject: Conclave 2000
Well the conclave finished up last night with the awards banquet. The persons
who should receive the biggest award are Jim Frakes and his committee. What a
nice meeting. Everything went smoothly and the weather was beautiful.
Zionsville was the perfect site for the popularity contest and the cars
displayed were wonderful. Especially the silver #14 of the preproduction
group. What a car!
This was our first conclave but it won't be our last. We enjoyed it greatly
and are really looking forward to next year in Grand Rapids, MN.
Later
John & Cerona Stevens
BJ8 '64
From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 07:54:21 EDT
Subject: Cam lift?
Hi guys,
The engine is in pieces now so I have begun the task of measuring everything.
My question is: where can one find the cam lift measurement? My Bentley
manual does not list it, and none of the books that I have list what the lift
at the cam is supposed to be. My cam is measuring 0.263 +- 0.001 lift on 11 of
12 lobes. Is that what is was supposed to be? I guessed about 1.4 ratio on
the rockers...working backwards from valve lift that gives 0.2628 at the cam.
What are the real numbers supposed to be?
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 08:38:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Cam lift?
Csooch1@aol.com wrote:
> Hi guys,
> The engine is in pieces now so I have begun the task of measuring everything.
> My question is: where can one find the cam lift measurement? My Bentley
>manual does not list it, and none of the books that I have list what the lift
>at the cam is supposed to be. My cam is measuring 0.263 +- 0.001 lift on 11
>of 12 lobes. Is that what is was supposed to be? I guessed about 1.4 ratio
>on the rockers...working backwards from valve lift that gives 0.2628 at the
>cam. What are the real numbers supposed to be?
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
> XJ6
Hi Chris,
If 11 of the obes are the same then thee is a good chance that they are the
original size. There is not a lot of room on a BJ8 cam to regrind it
undersize(not always the best idea) so if the minor diameters are around 1.123"
and 11 of the12 major diameters are the same I would bet that you have and
original cam with one worn lobe.
IMHO you would be best off to have the one lobe rebuilt and fit new lifters
where required with lots of cam lube.
If possible make sure that the lifters that are going to be reused are
installed in the same positions from which they were removed.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 08:53:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine...was machinist needed
I second that John.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
John Rowe wrote:
> Chris
> Make your trick a full balance of the engine. Works wonders for little cost.
> Better value than a set of roller rockers.
>
> Just my .02c worth
>
> Regards
> John Rowe
> Perth
> Western Australia
> BT7 being reassembled after a nut and bolt restoration.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Csooch1@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2000 10:39 AM
> Subject: Engine...was machinist needed
>
> >
> > Listers,
> > Thank you all for the info regarding local machinists for my engine
> rebuild.
> > I have not yet decided, but I do have the engine disassembled...how else
> > could I move it! I am happy to report that the crank looks great with
> > absolutely no scoring. Minor wear on the bearings. The pistons are also
> > standard, so I will not have to get liners...just oversize pistons. No
> ridge
> > in the cylinders either. The cam looks very good as well with no scoring
> of
> > the lobes, however I have yet to check them with the micrometer. The
> lifters
> > look ok, but have a little bit of pitting on the first two...probably a
> > rehardening for the lot. Maybe the rocker shaft will be trashed so I can
> get
> > the roller set from Welch! I have to do something trick somewhere!
> > Cheers,
> > Chris
> > BJ8...awaiting engine rebuild
> > XJ6...rear springs and wheel bearings being shipped
> > Miata...too easy
> >
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 07:56:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Cam lift?
Chris:
Your cam is right on. The lift at the valve for the BJ8 is.368. 1.4 ratio
times .263 equals .368.
The valve lift spec is in the Bentley manual towards the front under
"General Data" where the specs for the various engines are listed. It is
cited on page 18 in my book.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 09:02:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Flash or no Flash
David Neale wrote:
> I am a recent healey owner and member of "The List".
>
> Thanks for all the tips and info!
>
> I recently purchased a 1960 BN7 which, according to my new BMCIHT cert was
> built "31-March-1-April 1959". The boot lid is not fitted with a "3000
> Flash" below the "Austin Healey" sign. Gary Andersons wonderful book
> suggests that the "3000 flash" was fitted "from introduction of the 3000 to
> the end of production".
>
> For authenticity reasons should I add the Flash. From inside inspection,
> the boot lid does not show signs of any additional holes below the "AH" sign
> that give a hint of its previous existence.
>
> Mine appears to be an early production model. Were any productions cars
> built without the Flash?
>
> Thank you.
> Dave
> H-BN7-L/472
Hi Dave,
According to the book of all knowledge (Factory Parts Book) the 3000 flash was
fitted to all BN7 BT7 cars.
My bet is that your car has been fitted with a 100/6 BOOT lid. ;-).
Check for signs of collision damage around the boot lid lip and on the bumper
attaching brackets.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 09:06:37 -0700
Subject: Re: The Old Red Devil
Don: How fast does a "goosed moose" run ? enquiring minds want to know!!! EDS
Don Yarber wrote:
> Hi Gang:
>
> Good news again.
> After a fitful ordeal putting new spark plug and coil wire on (I dropped the
> carbon thing that goes from the coil wire to the rotor arm and it went under
> the distributor plate) Finally figured out how to make it stay on.
>
> Anyway. Fitted with new spark plug wires and a new coil wire the "Old Red
> Devil" ran like a goosed Moose.
>
> Don
> BN7
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 09:14:10 -0400
Subject: RE: Flash or no Flash
Mine is the same, year and model and as yours does not have the "flash".
-----Original Message-----
From: David Neale [mailto:dneale@pacbell.net]
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2000 10:15 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Re: Flash or no Flash
I am a recent healey owner and member of "The List".
Thanks for all the tips and info!
I recently purchased a 1960 BN7 which, according to my new BMCIHT cert was
built "31-March-1-April 1959". The boot lid is not fitted with a "3000
Flash" below the "Austin Healey" sign. Gary Andersons wonderful book
suggests that the "3000 flash" was fitted "from introduction of the 3000 to
the end of production".
For authenticity reasons should I add the Flash. From inside inspection,
the boot lid does not show signs of any additional holes below the "AH" sign
that give a hint of its previous existence.
Mine appears to be an early production model. Were any productions cars
built without the Flash?
Thank you.
Dave
H-BN7-L/472
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 09:22:42 -0400
Subject: RE: Flash or no Flash
My BT7 built early June 59 has the flash.
At 09:14 AM 7/28/00 -0400, Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA wrote:
>Mine is the same, year and model and as yours does not have the "flash".
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: David Neale [mailto:dneale@pacbell.net]
>Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2000 10:15 AM
>To: Healey List
>Subject: Re: Flash or no Flash
>
>
>
>I am a recent healey owner and member of "The List".
>
>Thanks for all the tips and info!
>
>I recently purchased a 1960 BN7 which, according to my new BMCIHT cert was
>built "31-March-1-April 1959". The boot lid is not fitted with a "3000
>Flash" below the "Austin Healey" sign. Gary Andersons wonderful book
>suggests that the "3000 flash" was fitted "from introduction of the 3000 to
>the end of production".
>
>For authenticity reasons should I add the Flash. From inside inspection,
>the boot lid does not show signs of any additional holes below the "AH" sign
>that give a hint of its previous existence.
>
>Mine appears to be an early production model. Were any productions cars
>built without the Flash?
>
>Thank you.
>Dave
>H-BN7-L/472
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 09:33:00 -0700
Subject: Re: Side Curtain Hole Mirrors
Thank's to all who responded.
Kirk
----- Original Message -----
From: "KIRK KVAM" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 3:36 PM
Subject: Side Curtain Hole Mirrors
>
> To All,
>
> In my foggy memory it seems awhile back someone posted
> info on side mirrors that fit into the side curtain holes in the doors.
>
> It seems they posted source and part #'s.
>
> Any response appreciated to this old (Corona) fogged brain.
>
> Kirk Kvam
> 62BT7#3
> 60BN7L405 (302 Ford)
> 26"T"RoadsterPU
>
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 10:42:15 -0400
Subject: RE: Flash or no Flash
Mine.. built in August of 59... has it..
-----Original Message-----
From: M Brouillette [mailto:mbrouill@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 9:23 AM
To: Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA
Cc: 'David Neale'; Healey List
Subject: RE: Flash or no Flash
My BT7 built early June 59 has the flash.
At 09:14 AM 7/28/00 -0400, Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA wrote:
>Mine is the same, year and model and as yours does not have the "flash".
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: David Neale [mailto:dneale@pacbell.net]
>Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2000 10:15 AM
>To: Healey List
>Subject: Re: Flash or no Flash
>
>
>
>I am a recent healey owner and member of "The List".
>
>Thanks for all the tips and info!
>
>I recently purchased a 1960 BN7 which, according to my new BMCIHT cert was
>built "31-March-1-April 1959". The boot lid is not fitted with a "3000
>Flash" below the "Austin Healey" sign. Gary Andersons wonderful book
>suggests that the "3000 flash" was fitted "from introduction of the 3000 to
>the end of production".
>
>For authenticity reasons should I add the Flash. From inside inspection,
>the boot lid does not show signs of any additional holes below the "AH"
sign
>that give a hint of its previous existence.
>
>Mine appears to be an early production model. Were any productions cars
>built without the Flash?
>
>Thank you.
>Dave
>H-BN7-L/472
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 08:12:55 -0700
Subject: RE: Flash or no Flash
I too have no evidence of holes for a "3000" flash on my car, HBN7L1039 on
my trunklid. I thought maybe it came from a Hundred Six. I am interested
in this information too.
Martin Johnson
-----Original Message-----
From: David Neale [mailto:dneale@pacbell.net]
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2000 7:15 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Re: Flash or no Flash
I am a recent healey owner and member of "The List".
Thanks for all the tips and info!
I recently purchased a 1960 BN7 which, according to my new BMCIHT cert was
built "31-March-1-April 1959". The boot lid is not fitted with a "3000
Flash" below the "Austin Healey" sign. Gary Andersons wonderful book
suggests that the "3000 flash" was fitted "from introduction of the 3000 to
the end of production".
For authenticity reasons should I add the Flash. From inside inspection,
the boot lid does not show signs of any additional holes below the "AH" sign
that give a hint of its previous existence.
Mine appears to be an early production model. Were any productions cars
built without the Flash?
Thank you.
Dave
H-BN7-L/472
From Ian Nelson <ian at Remedy.COM>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 12:19:42 -0700
Subject: Monterey Historics
Barring any electrical problems with my Healey, I'm hoping to drive the car
to the Monterey Historic races in August. I've visited the races many times
in the past and have always wanted to drive my own historic to the race.
I belong to the Austin-Healey USA club, but have not seen any mention as to
whether the club will have an area for parking.
Will there be a space reserved for Club members?
Thanks,
Ian Nelson
1958 100-6
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 08:00:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Flash or no Flash
BN7/405, has no flash.
Kirk Kvam
62BT7#3
60BN7/405 (302Ford)
26"T"RoadsterPU
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Neale" <dneale@pacbell.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2000 7:15 AM
Subject: Re: Flash or no Flash
>
> I am a recent healey owner and member of "The List".
>
> Thanks for all the tips and info!
>
> I recently purchased a 1960 BN7 which, according to my new BMCIHT cert was
> built "31-March-1-April 1959". The boot lid is not fitted with a "3000
> Flash" below the "Austin Healey" sign. Gary Andersons wonderful book
> suggests that the "3000 flash" was fitted "from introduction of the 3000
to
> the end of production".
>
> For authenticity reasons should I add the Flash. From inside inspection,
> the boot lid does not show signs of any additional holes below the "AH"
sign
> that give a hint of its previous existence.
>
> Mine appears to be an early production model. Were any productions cars
> built without the Flash?
>
> Thank you.
> Dave
> H-BN7-L/472
>
>
>
From JLore26 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 18:15:06 EDT
Subject: Healey door hinges..
Just had all the door hinges re-pinned for my BN7.
I had two estimates from machine shops in my area,
one was for 25.00 and the other 35.00. I went with the
$35 of course, it's a Healey. I was told any good machine shop
should be able to do this at about this cost. It's well worth it.
The doors have NO sag. Makes it easy to align the lower sills.
Regards, Jlore AH3000 BN7
From JSoderling at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 19:26:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics
Ian,
The Golden Gate Austin Healey Club, which is affiliated with the Austin
Healey Club of America, is scheduled to have a club event at the Monterey
Historics on Sunday, 8/20/00. I recall that during the spring planning
meeting that there was talk of trying to get a parking corral for Healeys. I
hope they get it set up because I want to go too and will take my Healey if
there's preferred parking. You should email the GGAHC Pres, David Nock, as I
recall he is in charge of this event. His email is hlydoc@aol.com. He is up
at the Rendezvous 2000 this week.
Unfortunately the AHCUSA has no local clubs and therefore has no activities,
such as, going to the Historics.
Where do you live? I don't find your name in membership listing in the
AHCUSA Resource Book. I live in Walnut Creek, CA.
Hope to caravan down with you if you're in my area, or see you at the races.
John Soderling
100-Six Erika the Red
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 19:37:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000
In a message dated 7/28/00 8:02:33 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
JohnbS7257@aol.com writes:
<< We enjoyed it greatly
and are really looking forward to next year in Grand Rapids, MN. >>
John and Cerona--
Your group did an outstanding job! Although this was my first Conclave I can
only say that I hope all future ones are as well organized as this. Everyone
I spoke with had nothing but good things to say. And wonder of wonders: The
Closing Banquet both began and FINISHED on time!
Thanks for a great time--
Michael Oritt, Capital Area Group (on the road home!)
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 09:34:46 -0600
Subject: Fw: New Element Discovered
Here is the final analysis of the Los Alamos fire this summer......
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> Hi gang! I received this from my group leader and thought it was worth
> passing on ....
> Just for laughs
> > The fire at Los Alamos has one significant consequence. A secret
> > scientific document was discovered in a bunker whose security
> systems were
> > mostly destroyed by the fire. This document was leaked to the
> public last
> > weekend.
> >
> > Actually it reveals nothing that we didn't already suspect. But
> it does
> > show that the government has known all along that besides
> arsenic, lead,
> > mercury, radium, strontium, uranium and plutonium, one more
> extremely
> > deadly and pervasive element also exists.
> >
> > Investigators at a major research institution have discovered the
> heaviest
> > element known to science. This startling new discovery has been
> > tentatively named Governmentium (Gv) but kept top secret for 50
> years.
> >
> > This new element has no protons or electrons, thus having an
> atomic number
> > of 0. It does, however, have 1 neutron, 125 deputy neutrons, 75
> > supervisory neutrons, and 111 team leader neutrons, giving it an
> atomic
> > mass of 312.
> >
> > These 312 particles are held together by a force called morons,
> which are
> > surrounded by vast quantities of lepton-like particles called
> peons.
> >
> > Since it has no electrons, Governmentium is inert. However, it
> can be
> > detected as it impedes every reaction with which it comes into
> contact.
> >
> > According to the discoverers, a minute amount of Governmentium
> causes one
> > reaction to take over four days to complete when it would
> normally take
> > less than a second. Governmentium has a normal half-life of
> approximately
> > three years; it does not decay but instead undergoes a
> reorganization in
> > which a portion of the deputy neutrons, supervisory neutrons, and
> team
> > leader neutrons exchange places. In fact, Governmentium sample's
> mass
> > will actually increase over time, since with each reorganization
> some of
> > the morons inevitably become neutrons, forming new isotopes.
> >
> > This characteristic of moron promotion leads some scientists to
> speculate
> > that Governmentium is formed whenever morons reach a certain
> quantity in
> > concentration. This hypothetical quantity is referred to as the
> "Critical
> > Morass."
>
>
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersv.edu>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 19:52:30 -0400
Subject: RE: Flash or no Flash
Must be a lot of 100-6's running around out there without boot lids. The
boot lid on my BJ7 had no flash and no holes for one. Maybe the parts bin
periodically ran out of them. Oops! Also, no signs of damage except for the
time the Caddy hit me in the rear end. Another story and after I had added
a flash.
Bill Moyer
From BGAHC at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 15:22:27 EDT
Subject: Conclave return/ you guys still talking about brake fluid?
Just returned from Conclave and sorting out my mail. I didn't unsubscribe
because I never thought another damn silicone/Dot 4 discussion might occur!!
Jerry, he owes you a complete brake rebuild and he should be home in a few
hours to discuss it. No compromise, his mechanic screwed up and he eats it.
you will always be uncertain about the safety of your brakes so just solve
the problem now, he's not out that much considering everything involved.
Seriously Conclave was fantastic and we all owe our thanks to Jim Frakes and
the Central Indiana Crew for such a great event.
I shared the Red Rally Car with two friends new to Conclave. Both have
Healeys, Sally Bowers a tired BJ7 and Bill Varga has a unrestored Bugeye. The
red rally car brought home trophies for a class win in Gymkhana (female
driver) Slowest time of the day (her first run). We had three drivers and a
passenger run laps at Putman, took home a class win at Putman (female) ,
Award of excellence in Car show (how much will that one cost me?), and a
fourth in Rally with sixteen year old Ben Moore navigating.
Everyone had a great time. Putting them behind the wheel of a finished car
gave them so much enthusiasm I'm can't wait till next year.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
Castrol LMA user and proud of it.
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 21:09:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000
Mike,
Need to correct you. We are from the Wisconsin chapter, really from the Upper
Peninsula of Michigan. The Central Indiana chapter did the good work. And the
food was excellent at the banquet.
Have a good trip home and see you next year.
John Stevens
From "Wayne Irons" <wayne at royal.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 23:02:51 -0400
Subject: Lucas fuses?
Hey guys... I think I finally let the smoke out! Drove to church last week
and realized after arrive that I had NO LIGHTS! I discovered that the fuses
in my block are regular Buss fuses, and don't fit quite that well. And I'm
sure I've read somewhere that substituting them is not a good idea because
of the metallic differences. (Or maybe I'm dreaming that part).
Anyway... who out there has Lucas fuses or a GOOD replacement? Most of the
catalogs I have say simply "Fuses".
Wayne
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 23:10:31 EDT
Subject: Conclave 2000
Just remembered that Autoweek was there filming and interviewing. It should run
on the Autoweek program on Speedvision on Sept. 1.
John Stevens
From tom dooley <tdooley at ispchannel.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 21:02:05 -0700
Subject: BN6 - Need Quick Sale
More Detailed pictures at:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=910249&a=6647047
Thanks,
Tom
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 00:32:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000
Hello all,
I also just got home from Conclave and must also congratulate all who were
responsible in pulling off a great event.
I want to personally thank my terrific Concours judging team, Steve Vogel
and Michael Oritt, who helped me evaluate two Hundreds, each earning a gold
level. Thanks also to all who stopped by to say hello!
I was able to persuade three fellows to attend a Conclave for the first
time, two driving their Healeys 500 miles each way, when they had never been
confident enough to go more than a few miles from home before. The cars ran
strong and trouble free, giving their owners some real confidence to use
their cars more!
The third fellow trailered his lovely pre production #14, finished in hand
polished aluminum for all to see. This new Conclave participant received the
popularity "Best in Show" award, and was deeply moved by the whole
experience.
Thanks again to all for making this last week an event I will always
remember fondly.
Rich Chrysler
From Lynn and Jean Neff <lynnneff at springnet1.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 06:10:30 -0500
Subject: Conclave 2000
Thanks to Jim Frakes and his hard working committee. This was our first
Conclave, and we thoroughly enjoyed it. Unfortunately, we had to return
home early on Wednesday.
All of those great Healeys lining the brick street in Zionsville...what
a great sight!
Next time the Gymkhana.
Lynn BT7
From "Russ & Natalie Bamsey" <ia549 at worldchat.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 10:47:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Cam lift?
Hello Mike and Listers;
What do you look for in determining whether a cam and lifters are
reusable. Is minor pitting on the cam lobe and lifter face acceptable?
Thanks...Russ Bamsey
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
To: <Csooch1@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 8:38 AM
Subject: Re: Cam lift?
>
> Csooch1@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Hi guys,
> > The engine is in pieces now so I have begun the task of measuring
everything. My question is: where can one find the cam lift measurement?
My Bentley manual does not list it, and none of the books that I have list
what the lift at the cam is supposed to be. My cam is measuring 0.263 +-
0.001 lift on 11 of 12 lobes. Is that what is was supposed to be? I
guessed about 1.4 ratio on the rockers...working backwards from valve lift
that gives 0.2628 at the cam. What are the real numbers supposed to be?
> > Cheers,
> > Chris
> > BJ8
> > XJ6
>
> Hi Chris,
> If 11 of the obes are the same then thee is a good chance that they are
the original size. There is not a lot of room on a BJ8 cam to regrind it
undersize(not always the best idea) so if the minor diameters are around
1.123" and 11 of the12 major diameters are the same I would bet that you
have and original cam with one worn lobe.
> IMHO you would be best off to have the one lobe rebuilt and fit new
lifters where required with lots of cam lube.
> If possible make sure that the lifters that are going to be reused are
installed in the same positions from which they were removed.
>
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 10:57:13 EDT
Subject: New Healey Owner
In the August 7, 2000 issue of People Magazine, page 94, is a picture of a new
Healey owner, Harrison Ford.
" So it was with some trepidation that screenwriter Melissa Mathison, Ford's
wife of 17 years, presented her motor-mad, but very particular husband with a
1966 Austin Healey 3000 [British Racing Green] for his 58th birthday on July
13."
Have the membership chairpersons sent him any applications yet?
John Stevens
From BGAHC at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 11:20:48 EDT
Subject: Re: New Healey Owner
Interesting note on the Harrison Ford purchase.
One of our club members, Dave Giffin, had his BRG BJ8 listed on a restoration
shop web site for sale for $41,000. Several of our members did it when the
site first opened a few years ago. Needless to say it was for prices that
were very good for the sellers involved. The broker working for Mrs. Ford
found it and contacted Dave who had forgotten it was listed. A deal was
struck over the phone for $39,000 and the broker was to call back in the
morning to make arrangements for a wire transfer of money and pick up the car.
Dave's wife said flat out no way! She is going to Conclave and Southeast
Classic and he can't sell the car. The broker was not amused.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 08:42:57 -0700
Subject: Other Lists
Hello Listers
Does anyone out there know if there is a List for XKE Jags similar to the
Healey List? A friend is restoring an XKE, and when I told him about the
Healey List he was very interested in finding one like it for his car.
If such a list exists, how does he access it? TIA
John Snyder
From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 12:23:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Other Lists
John,
Advise him to go to www.jag-lovers.org and there is a list available for
XKE's. I am on the modern list (newer XJ6's) and there are some very
valuable people on these lists. They also have searchable archives so he can
look for previous posts about common problems.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 11:26:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Cam lift?
Hi Russ,
No amount of pitting is acceptable. In fact, it will probably correspond
to a cam lobe that needs regrinding or possibly welding. We always replace
ALL lifters as a matter of course, regardless of cam condition; it is cheap
insurance. Best price is at British Parts Northwest (503)864-2001. Hope this
helps. ---Peter (BMC Restorations)
-----Original Message-----
From: Russ & Natalie Bamsey <ia549@worldchat.com>
To: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>; Csooch1@aol.com
<Csooch1@aol.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, July 29, 2000 10:01 AM
Subject: Re: Cam lift?
Hello Mike and Listers;
What do you look for in determining whether a cam and lifters
are
reusable. Is minor pitting on the cam lobe and lifter face acceptable?
Thanks...Russ Bamsey
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
To: <Csooch1@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 8:38 AM
Subject: Re: Cam lift?
>
> Csooch1@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Hi guys,
> > The engine is in pieces now so I have begun the task of measuring
everything. My question is: where can one find the cam lift
measurement?
My Bentley manual does not list it, and none of the books that I have
list
what the lift at the cam is supposed to be. My cam is measuring 0.263
+-
0.001 lift on 11 of 12 lobes. Is that what is was supposed to be? I
guessed about 1.4 ratio on the rockers...working backwards from valve
lift
that gives 0.2628 at the cam. What are the real numbers supposed to be?
> > Cheers,
> > Chris
> > BJ8
> > XJ6
>
> Hi Chris,
> If 11 of the obes are the same then thee is a good chance that they
are
the original size. There is not a lot of room on a BJ8 cam to regrind it
undersize(not always the best idea) so if the minor diameters are around
1.123" and 11 of the12 major diameters are the same I would bet that you
have and original cam with one worn lobe.
> IMHO you would be best off to have the one lobe rebuilt and fit new
lifters where required with lots of cam lube.
> If possible make sure that the lifters that are going to be reused are
installed in the same positions from which they were removed.
>
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
From "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc at earthlink.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 09:48:03 -0700
Subject: BN-1 Steering Gear
I never received a copy of this, so I am resending it. My appologies to
those of you who get it twice.
I have a BN-1 steering gear that is available to whomever needs it. You pay
shipping and handling and it is yours.
Please contact me off list.
Jim LeBlanc
From "Paul Leeks" <paul_leeks at hotmail.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 17:14:15 GMT
Subject: Re: Flash or no flash
My 1957 100/6 has a "100/6" flash on the boot lid - but this is probably due
to an over-enthusiastic previous owner?
Regards
Paul Leeks
________________________________________________________________________
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 12:39:09 +0000
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000
Not to be too curmudgeonly about it, but I've been reading about
Conclave-this and Conclave-that for several weeks now. Did or does anyone
realize that 'conclave' means 'secret?' Cutesy pie handling of the language
for cutesy pie sake still irritates me even though I spent 30 years in the
ad biz.
From "JISah102" <ah102 at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 14:51:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Other Lists
Go to http://www.listquest.com, select automobiles, select british cars,
there is no specific Jaguar list, but click on british cars again, and
search on keword JAG. You'll find lots of hits.
Good Luck
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: John Snyder <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2000 11:42 AM
Subject: Other Lists
>
> Hello Listers
>
> Does anyone out there know if there is a List for XKE Jags similar to the
> Healey List? A friend is restoring an XKE, and when I told him about the
> Healey List he was very interested in finding one like it for his car.
>
> If such a list exists, how does he access it? TIA
>
> John Snyder
From "JISah102" <ah102 at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 15:12:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000
To Unsigned A. R.: (aka rons)
What is "Cutesy Pie" about "Conference, Parley, Congress, Gathering,
Meeting"...? ..These are the definitions in my MS word Thesaurus.
Jim
From BGAHC at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 16:31:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000
"Conclave" is also defined as "A meeting of cardinals for electing a Pope".
Made a good trivia question on a Conclave Rally I did once. " They say blue
smoke oil, black smoke fuel, white smoke a new Pope. When the Cardinals meet
to elect a new Pope it's called a __________"
Actually Walt Blanck borrowed it from the Boy Scouts. So in fact are you
saying you don't like Healeys and the Boy Scouts of America?
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net writes:
>
> Not to be too curmudgeonly about it, but I've been reading about
> Conclave-this and Conclave-that for several weeks now. Did or does anyone
> realize that 'conclave' means 'secret?' Cutesy pie handling of the language
> for cutesy pie sake still irritates me even though I spent 30 years in the
> ad biz.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 18:07:57 +0000
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000
Jim
Okay, let's consult another source, the Oxford Englnish Dictionary. To those
authors conclave means: 'Private, inner chamber, closeted.'
The purpose of Bill Gates' much abridged MS Word Thesaurus, or any other
thesaurus, is to provide synonyms. A synonym is not a definition. But even
if one were to 'accept' such a notion, that a synonym is acceptable as a
substitute for a definition, none of the Word thesaurus words connote the
sense of secrecy implicit in 'inner chambers,' 'closeted' or 'privacy.'
Therefore, I think 'conclave' signals a subtle but unmistakable difference
from the intent of the event unless we are trying to keep Austin Healeys
secret. To thinking people, it may even mean, 'You're not invited.'
Another subtle but real world point, one that would concern me a great deal
if I were presenting the name Conclave 2000 to an advertising client: the
Klu Klux Klan holds conclaves. I, for one, do not want to go.
What about Cutesy Pie? It may be argot, jargon or even 'silly talk but the
one thing it is not is the name of an important event open to the public.
Neither do I intend to publish the term anywhere else but in these brief
messages where it will be read and understood by all my friends on the list.
>From <Unsigned A. R.: (aka rons)>
From Robert Larson <robertlarson at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 17:03:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000
Hi Jim and "rons",
I read with interest the reports on "Conclave 2000".
I was not fortunate enough to attend so I have no first hand knowledge
of the occurrences that took place there.
I also found "rons" comments on the word conclave
interesting along with Jim's comments on "rons" definition. Not being a
wordsmith when I saw the word used in this context I understood it to be
a meeting or get-together. My interest though was aroused by "rons"
definition that was new to me. Checking in my American Heritage
Dictionary, I was surprised to find that "rons" seems to be correct in
that it is, "A confidential or secret meeting". Obviously this has not
been the case with all the advance publicity. I stand corrected in my
misunderstanding of the word. It seems that the generally excepted
usage of the word is technically incorrect.
However, there is another definition, 2B in my
dictionary, that defines conclave as "The meeting held to elect the
Pope". A definition of pope per the same source is, "A figure
considered to have unquestioned authority". In the Healey faith the
Popes are those who judge the cars against the Gold standard. So, if
any judges we elected or appointed at this meeting then I guess that
those who run this meet were correct in calling it Conclave.
I'm so confused by this Conclave stuff.............
Bob
55 BN1
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 15:56:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000
Hi Bob,
Couldn't pass up the challenge - Oxford Concise defines conclave: noun.
Meeting-place, assembly, e.g..- of cardinals for election of pope; private
assembly, as in "Austin Healey Club of America". Although there is no
mention in Fowler's "Modern English Usage " 2nd ed., it does appear that a
definition of a word in the English language is not as narrow as one
thinks! Like you I wish I could have attended.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Robert Larson wrote:
>
> Hi Jim and "rons",
>
> I read with interest the reports on "Conclave 2000".
> I was not fortunate enough to attend so I have no first hand knowledge
> of the occurrences that took place there.
>
> I also found "rons" comments on the word conclave
> interesting along with Jim's comments on "rons" definition. Not being a
> wordsmith when I saw the word used in this context I understood it to be
> a meeting or get-together. My interest though was aroused by "rons"
> definition that was new to me. Checking in my American Heritage
> Dictionary, I was surprised to find that "rons" seems to be correct in
> that it is, "A confidential or secret meeting". Obviously this has not
> been the case with all the advance publicity. I stand corrected in my
> misunderstanding of the word. It seems that the generally excepted
> usage of the word is technically incorrect.
>
> However, there is another definition, 2B in my
> dictionary, that defines conclave as "The meeting held to elect the
> Pope". A definition of pope per the same source is, "A figure
> considered to have unquestioned authority". In the Healey faith the
> Popes are those who judge the cars against the Gold standard. So, if
> any judges we elected or appointed at this meeting then I guess that
> those who run this meet were correct in calling it Conclave.
>
> I'm so confused by this Conclave stuff.............
>
> Bob
>
> 55 BN1
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 18:03:41 -0400
Subject: What's that noise?
Well, after cleaning up the head and valves, new oil seals, and putting on
a new rocker shaft,
I finally started the car today (BJ 8). The car fired immediately, but I
noticed a strange knocking sound
coming from the spark plug side of the engine. Taking the valve cover off,
I saw that it seemed to coincide with the movement of #8 valve. I looked at
the lifters/ pushrods for that part of the engine and they were fine. I
adjusted the valves, but could find nothing far off enough to make that
kind of noise.
I poured oil over the rocker shaft and turned it over, and it seemed
quieter, so I thought that maybe the oil hadn't had a chance to reach
everything...........put everything back together......same noise.....it's
a little more strident than a noisy valve, and I'm wracking my brains
trying to think of what could have been affected by the work I did.
Does anybody have any ideas/suggestions? I've never heard this kind of
noise come from my engine,
and I'm concerned.
Stephen
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 18:29:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000
Robert Larson wrote:
In the Healey faith the
> Popes are those who judge the cars against the Gold standard. So, if
> any judges we elected or appointed at this meeting then I guess that
> those who run this meet were correct in calling it Conclave.
< I'm so confused by this Conclave stuff.............
C'mon guys,
Being one of those judges, I can certainly tell you we have never been
appointed or elected. We do this service on strictly a volunteer basis.
Possibly misnamed or not, it is certainly a gathering of all sorts of Healey
enthusiasts who share almost a week of comraderie, fun events, driving their
cars, sharing technical and sometimes originality stuff, and generally
enjoying all the aspects of owning these great cars.
Can we get off this silly thread, accept the fact that the event was
originally named from the international gatherings the Boy Scouts, and get
on with things of Healey interest.
Rich Chrysler
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 19:13:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000
Hmm--
I'd best be reading more carefully. But I sure that you and Cerona did a
good job anyway!
Chow--Michael
From Bill Holt <lbcholt at one.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 19:16:18 -0400
Subject: Re: New Healy (sic) Owner
>
>In the August 7, 2000 issue of People Magazine, page 94, is a picture of a
new Healey owner, Harrison Ford.
>
>" So it was with some trepidation that screenwriter Melissa Mathison,
Ford's wife of 17 years, presented >her motor-mad, but very particular
husband with a 1966 Austin Healey 3000 [British Racing Green] for his >58th
birthday on July 13."
Saw the magazine today. Did anyone else notice that the car was labeled as
being an "Austin-HEALY"? A few years ago, I probably wouldn't even have
noticed. Now, seeing the name misspelled H-E-A-L-Y is like fingernails on
a blackboard.
Bill Holt
From JH67HEALEY at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 19:12:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000
Althought I respect everyones opinions and facts in correcting our
destruction of the English language, I'm just happy that I was able to bring
John and Joy Healey in under the cover of darkness, and that the great Race
Car Driver Derek Daly wasn't spotted entering the banquet. It was a great
Conclave no matter what the interpetation some may have. It was a real
pleasure to see John Healey run the 1 1/2 mile track 2-seconds behind the
Healeys owners Robbie Cook and place 5th in his class, Derek's stories of his
days of racing where great as was the whole CONCLAVE 2000. Also to Blair who
showed up with the pre-production #14 Healey which Rich mentioned earlier
that took "Best of Show".and as John Healey stated it was the first time in
40yrs that 3-Healey boats were gathered at an event, all 3 being different
Models. I personally want to thank the Central Indiania Austin Healey Club
for thier hard work in putting on a Conclave that so many of us will remember
for years to come. Rich as a judge, which I also am, you are right on the
money, we volunteer to do Concours, we are not appointed or elected, we do
this because we want to, and for the passion we all share for these great
Sports Cars. So get out an attend these events no matter what they may be
named, come out and see 200+ Healeys gathered, enjoy the cars the people and
have a good time.
Just my .02 cents
John S. Hunt
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 18:15:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000
Wonderful Statement Rich....
Keith ( Yeah sometimes we get our focus a little confused.... )
----- Original Message -----
From: RL Chrysler <lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2000 5:29 PM
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000
>
> Robert Larson wrote:
> In the Healey faith the
> > Popes are those who judge the cars against the Gold standard. So, if
> > any judges we elected or appointed at this meeting then I guess that
> > those who run this meet were correct in calling it Conclave.
>
> < I'm so confused by this Conclave stuff.............
> C'mon guys,
> Being one of those judges, I can certainly tell you we have never been
> appointed or elected. We do this service on strictly a volunteer basis.
> Possibly misnamed or not, it is certainly a gathering of all sorts of
Healey
> enthusiasts who share almost a week of comraderie, fun events, driving
their
> cars, sharing technical and sometimes originality stuff, and generally
> enjoying all the aspects of owning these great cars.
> Can we get off this silly thread, accept the fact that the event was
> originally named from the international gatherings the Boy Scouts, and get
> on with things of Healey interest.
> Rich Chrysler
>
>
>
From JSoderling at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 19:33:57 EDT
Subject: Heater Air Control Knob
Hi all,
I've owned my 100-Six now for 10 months and I still am not sure of what the
Heater Air Control knob does. My Owners Handbook says, "pull out the knob on
the right-hand side of the heater control panel to regulate the supply of air
from the heater. When fully out the air supply is completely shut off."
So I guess during the summer I should have both the left side and the right
side knobs OUT. This opens the "cold air supply to the driver and shuts off
the heater supply to both sides? I can't tell any difference in what's
coming out from the ducts with the right-hand side knob in or out. Someone
also told me that this knob controls the heater air to the defroster vents.
Can someone give me the straight scoop? I want to have it right so I get
minimum heated air in the cockpit this summer!!!
Thanks
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 19:39:06 EDT
Subject: Re: What's that noise?
Stephen
This may not apply to your noise but you might what to check. At the West
Coast Meet (Rendezvous) David Nock made us aware of a problem with most new
rocker shafts. The threaded plug in the end of the shaft is threaded too deep
and the plug partially to completely closes of the oil supply hole to the
last rocker. This will cause premature wear, noise, etc. The recommendation
is to remove the plug, clean threads, apply red locktight, put it back
together making sure the hole is open (not tightened all the way), let set 24
hours and then start the engine checking for oil at the rocker. If you have
oil seeping from the rockers I would suspect that this is not your problem.
Aloha
Perry
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 04:50:37 +0000
Subject: Re: New Healy (sic) Owner
Aw, c'mon Bill, in the light of the discussion of the meaning of 'Conclave,'
the misspelling of Healey will undoubtedly be construed by some listers as
just another 'technicality.' (Grin)
Ron.
----------
>From: Bill Holt <lbcholt@one.net>
>To: JohnbS7257@aol.com, <Healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: New Healy (sic) Owner
>Date: Sat, Jul 29, 2000, 11:16 PM
>
>
>>
>>In the August 7, 2000 issue of People Magazine, page 94, is a picture of a
> new Healey owner, Harrison Ford.
>>
>>" So it was with some trepidation that screenwriter Melissa Mathison,
> Ford's wife of 17 years, presented >her motor-mad, but very particular
> husband with a 1966 Austin Healey 3000 [British Racing Green] for his >58th
> birthday on July 13."
>
> Saw the magazine today. Did anyone else notice that the car was labeled as
> being an "Austin-HEALY"? A few years ago, I probably wouldn't even have
> noticed. Now, seeing the name misspelled H-E-A-L-Y is like fingernails on
> a blackboard.
>
> Bill Holt
>
From JH67HEALEY at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 19:50:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000
My apology, I thought those people out in the parking area huddled together
were helping other Healey owners fix and repair thier Healeys, sorry for
speaking out.
John S. Hunt
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 20:06:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Flash or no Flash
In a message dated 7/27/00 8:06:02 PM, dneale@pacbell.net writes:
<< I recently purchased a 1960 BN7 which, according to my new BMCIHT cert was
built "31-March-1-April 1959". The boot lid is not fitted with a "3000
Flash" below the "Austin Healey" sign. Gary Andersons wonderful book
suggests that the "3000 flash" was fitted "from introduction of the 3000 to
the end of production".
For authenticity reasons should I add the Flash. From inside inspection,
the boot lid does not show signs of any additional holes below the "AH" sign
that give a hint of its previous existence.
Mine appears to be an early production model. Were any productions cars
built without the Flash?
>>
After I log off, I'm going to check to see what I wrote in The Book. Hope
that I didn't write that the flash was fitted from the beginning, since I
have a friend in my own neighborhood with one in the first 200 production
BT7s, that doesn't have the flash on the back, and since seeing that car,
I've found several others. We don't know when they decided that, duh, the
same flash on the front grille could be put on the back deck lid for further
product identification. Pretty sure they started sometime during the summer.
In any case, unless you're prone to insigniae envy, I'd just leave it off,
and tell anyone who notices that this is an artifact of the first few weeks
of production. If I find that the book is wrong, I'll add that note to our
errata sheet and include it in the next printing.
Have fun with your new acquisition.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From TRICARB at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 20:25:18 EDT
Subject: MKI 3000 Thermal Carb
Hi Everyone,
I need your expertise.
I have a MKI 3000 in my shop with a Thermal carburetor as it was left
here by an attendee of Healey Rendezvous 2000. He rented a car from
Enterpise and drove back to Chico to return for the Healey when I get it
fixed.
The car loads up with gas, backfires and spits raw fuel out on the engine
after it is warmed up and after driving it for a spell. He is able to clear
it by opening the accelerator. It is particularly loading up upon
deceleration.
This Thermal carb has a control switch in the fascia as the thermal
switch has been disconnected. So there is no chance that the thermal carb
has been switched on and causing the situation.
All looks well in the Thermal carb and I am baffled at the cause. What
is your opinion?
Cheers, Bill
From "Sam Marble" <samncyna at netzero.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 20:58:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000
Some of them were. Thanks to a number of folks that were good enough
to help out with our starter and fuel leak problems at Conclave.
Sam & Cyndi
----- Original Message -----
From: <JH67HEALEY@aol.com>
To: <lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2000 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000
>
> My apology, I thought those people out in the parking area huddled
together
> were helping other Healey owners fix and repair thier Healeys, sorry
for
> speaking out.
>
> John S. Hunt
>
____________NetZero Free Internet Access and Email_________
Download Now http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
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From David Neale <dneale at pacbell.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 21:09:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Flash or no Flash
Thanks to everyone who responded.
As Gary Anderson suggested, I will enjoy the anecdotal pride of owning an
early production model in a special "No Boot Lid Flash" category.
As a Brit, I am suspicious, however, that the lads on the production line
took an early tea break and a few select cars slipped by on the line!!
DAVID NEALE
BN7
BJ8 arriving on Monday!
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 20:22:52 +1000
Subject: Fringe Benefits
I have just spent the afternoon with my BN4 being used as a prop with a
beautiful bikini clad model for a French swimsuit company fashion shoot.
Aaaah.... the fringe benefits of Healey ownership.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
From bn1 at flashcom.net
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 06:03:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Fringe Benefits
Greg,
May we assume that the final pics will be published on the web so we can all
enjoy your
BN4 and, if we have to, the model as well?
Bill Barnett
BN1 #663
Greg Bankin wrote:
> I have just spent the afternoon with my BN4 being used as a prop with a
> beautiful bikini clad model for a French swimsuit company fashion shoot.
>
> Aaaah.... the fringe benefits of Healey ownership.
>
> Greg Bankin
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
> Sunshine Coast
> Queensland
> Australia
>
> '58 BN4
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 09:09:15 EDT
Subject: Conclave vs Sex
I too wanted to add my 2 cents. This was my 18th Conclave and it was
slightly different from the other 17, but as a former organizer of the 91
Conclave in Sturbridge, MA, I can appreciate all the work that went into each
event and meeting.
Someone once asked a man about his worst sexual experience and after some
thought, said, " It was Wonderful". Same with Conclave, no matter how
different, they all are wonderful. Congratulations to the entire committee
and especially Jim Frakes!
Now maybe we can get something going in the East like a dual meet with Sports
& Touring like Fredricksburg, VA in 1981 with over 400 Healeys present.
Rudy in NC
From dyaarl anderson <dyaarl at mediaone.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 09:29:56 -0400
Subject: for sale
This is a cryptographically signed message in MIME format.
--------------msC606C71BE3080033F1A87725
I have a BN4----100/6 front grill and top surround for sale. No
dents-just needs cleaning and polishing. Make Offer & pay shipping.
Reply dyaarl@mediaone.net.
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 09:29:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Any word...
As usual, Ed didn't come through. Not only didn't he have the party, he
didn't make the best and most important meet of the year. Luckily, there was
a good hospitality with almost never ending kegs of beer available.
Rudy in NC
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 10:08:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Fringe Benefits
But you probably went home with just the Healey!
Rudy
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 10:48:07 -0400
Subject: Re;Re: What's that noise?
Thanks for the tip, Perry, I'm going to check that out.......it's all I've
got to go on so far.
Stephen, BJ8
From "Russ & Natalie Bamsey" <ia549 at worldchat.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 11:43:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Cam / valves
Hello Peter and Listers;
Thanks for the information on cam and lifters. I am about to start
a full engine rebuild and will start with the head. I have heard that there
are some owners that are having trouble with bronze valve guides seizing the
exhaust valve and bending the push rod. Is there any truth to this and if
so should I use the iron guides only? Does anyone know if hardened valve
seats from a popular North American car (ie Ford, Chev) can be used on the
Healey head.
Thanks...Russ Bamsey
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Brauen <pbrauen@telepak.net>
To: Russ & Natalie Bamsey <ia549@worldchat.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2000 12:26 PM
Subject: Re: Cam lift?
> Hi Russ,
> No amount of pitting is acceptable. In fact, it will probably
correspond
> to a cam lobe that needs regrinding or possibly welding. We always replace
> ALL lifters as a matter of course, regardless of cam condition; it is
cheap
> insurance. Best price is at British Parts Northwest (503)864-2001. Hope
this
> helps. ---Peter (BMC Restorations)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Russ & Natalie Bamsey <ia549@worldchat.com>
> To: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>; Csooch1@aol.com
> <Csooch1@aol.com>
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Saturday, July 29, 2000 10:01 AM
> Subject: Re: Cam lift?
>
>
>
> Hello Mike and Listers;
> What do you look for in determining whether a cam and lifters
> are
> reusable. Is minor pitting on the cam lobe and lifter face
acceptable?
> Thanks...Russ Bamsey
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
> To: <Csooch1@aol.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 8:38 AM
> Subject: Re: Cam lift?
>
>
> >
> > Csooch1@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > > Hi guys,
> > > The engine is in pieces now so I have begun the task of measuring
> everything. My question is: where can one find the cam lift
> measurement?
> My Bentley manual does not list it, and none of the books that I have
> list
> what the lift at the cam is supposed to be. My cam is measuring 0.263
> +-
> 0.001 lift on 11 of 12 lobes. Is that what is was supposed to be? I
> guessed about 1.4 ratio on the rockers...working backwards from valve
> lift
> that gives 0.2628 at the cam. What are the real numbers supposed to
be?
> > > Cheers,
> > > Chris
> > > BJ8
> > > XJ6
> >
> > Hi Chris,
> > If 11 of the obes are the same then thee is a good chance that they
> are
> the original size. There is not a lot of room on a BJ8 cam to regrind
it
> undersize(not always the best idea) so if the minor diameters are
around
> 1.123" and 11 of the12 major diameters are the same I would bet that
you
> have and original cam with one worn lobe.
> > IMHO you would be best off to have the one lobe rebuilt and fit new
> lifters where required with lots of cam lube.
> > If possible make sure that the lifters that are going to be reused
are
> installed in the same positions from which they were removed.
> >
> >
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Mike Salter
> > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >
> >
>
>
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 10:17:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Fringe Benefits
And what's wrong with that?. Sure he could have gone home with both, next
thing you know they're married followed by divorce and the next thing you
know she's driving away with the Healey.RayfixitanddriveitFeehan. By the way
I've managed to keep mine through three divorces. Kept marrying women who
thought it was a piece of junk, so my luck hasn't been all bad.
-----Original Message-----
From: CAWS52803@aol.com <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: gregbankin@primus.com.au <gregbankin@primus.com.au>;
healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, July 30, 2000 10:10 AM
Subject: Re: Fringe Benefits
>
>But you probably went home with just the Healey!
>Rudy
>
From "Emerson, Bill" <BEmerson at scitor.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 09:05:10 -0700
Subject: RE: Monterey Historics
This might be a good year to go to the Monterey races on SATURDAY. Phil
Coombs will be racing his 100-S. This is the first time since 1992 that a
100-S has participated. (Last time it was my 100-S which beat the (All but
Allards)..... Phil is an EXCELLENT driver and should provide some
delight to the crowd when passing the Jags, Ferraris etc.... Look for Phil
in the pits where you will find some interesting 100-S photos on display.
Bill Emerson
-----Original Message-----
From: Ian Nelson [mailto:ian@Remedy.COM]
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 12:20 PM
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: Monterey Historics
Barring any electrical problems with my Healey, I'm hoping to drive the car
to the Monterey Historic races in August. I've visited the races many times
in the past and have always wanted to drive my own historic to the race.
I belong to the Austin-Healey USA club, but have not seen any mention as to
whether the club will have an area for parking.
Will there be a space reserved for Club members?
Thanks,
Ian Nelson
1958 100-6
From "DHT" <dht at erols.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 12:33:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Other Lists
e-type@jag-lovers.org
Dean
----- Original Message -----
From: <Csooch1@aol.com>
To: <johnahsn@olypen.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2000 12:23 PM
Subject: Re: Other Lists
>
> John,
> Advise him to go to www.jag-lovers.org and there is a list available for
> XKE's. I am on the modern list (newer XJ6's) and there are some very
> valuable people on these lists. They also have searchable archives so he
can
> look for previous posts about common problems.
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
> XJ6
>
From JustBrits at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 12:37:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000
In a message dated 07/29/2000 6:17:30 PM Central Daylight Time,
JH67HEALEY@aol.com writes:
<< Just my .02 cents >>
And a "perfect" "Valued Added" .02 it is, Jonh !!
Cheers........
Ed
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 13:19:43 -0400
Subject: Re: What's that noise?
"S.HUTCHINGS" wrote:
> Well, after cleaning up the head and valves, new oil seals, and putting on
> a new rocker shaft,
> I finally started the car today (BJ 8). The car fired immediately, but I
> noticed a strange knocking sound
> coming from the spark plug side of the engine. Taking the valve cover off,
> I saw that it seemed to coincide with the movement of #8 valve. I looked at
> the lifters/ pushrods for that part of the engine and they were fine. I
> adjusted the valves, but could find nothing far off enough to make that
> kind of noise.
> I poured oil over the rocker shaft and turned it over, and it seemed
> quieter, so I thought that maybe the oil hadn't had a chance to reach
> everything...........put everything back together......same noise.....it's
> a little more strident than a noisy valve, and I'm wracking my brains
> trying to think of what could have been affected by the work I did.
> Does anybody have any ideas/suggestions? I've never heard this kind of
> noise come from my engine,
> and I'm concerned.
> Stephen
Without want to alarm you too much Stephen, I would suggest that you find a
borescope and take a look into #4 cylinder, and all the others for that matter.
Your knocking noise sounds very like your engine has swallowed a washer or
worse still a nut.
It would not be the first.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at slip.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 10:53:46 -0700
Subject: Re: New Healy (sic) Owner
Bill Holt wrote:
> Saw the magazine today. Did anyone else notice that the car was labeled as
> being an "Austin-HEALY"?
Just got a copy (wore my Groucho Marx mask to buy it :)). They didn't even
get the
hypen ("Austin Healy" (sic))! Bugged me, too!
Maybe Harrison will set them straight.
bs
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Holt" <lbcholt@one.net>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2000 4:16 PM
Subject: Re: New Healy (sic) Owner
>
> >
> >In the August 7, 2000 issue of People Magazine, page 94, is a picture of a
> new Healey owner, Harrison Ford.
> >
> >" So it was with some trepidation that screenwriter Melissa Mathison,
> Ford's wife of 17 years, presented >her motor-mad, but very particular
> husband with a 1966 Austin Healey 3000 [British Racing Green] for his >58th
> birthday on July 13."
>
> Saw the magazine today. Did anyone else notice that the car was labeled as
> being an "Austin-HEALY"? A few years ago, I probably wouldn't even have
> noticed. Now, seeing the name misspelled H-E-A-L-Y is like fingernails on
> a blackboard.
>
> Bill Holt
>
>
From "Keith R. Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 14:48:49 -0400
Subject: I'm Back
Listers, I'm back after a 5 week absence. Took on a job which kept me
away from home basically 24/7. Am looking forward to the usual good
advice and banter.
I have gone through my healey email on 3 or 4 occasions and deleted
pretty much everything by judging the titles. Have no time to read
hundreds of them! If anyone has a message which they feel is of
critical interest to me, please send to me off the list at the above
address.
Thanks a million.
Keith Pennell
From gonzo18 at primenet.com (Ray Juncal)
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 12:05:07 -0700 (MST)
Subject: humor (minimal Healey content)
Listers
This was sent to me by my friend Tony , who wouldnt you know it , runs
a resto shop for Fiats of all things!!!
Healey on
Ray
> The Laws for British Sports Cars
>
> Most of us are familiar with the physical laws thought up by Isaac
> Newton, the guy who invented gravity. He said things like "For every
> action there is an equal and opposite reaction" and "If you sit under
> a tree long enough, an apple will eventually fall on your head,
> provided you are sitting under an apple tree."
>
> Isaac was considered very intelligent and was eventually responsible
> for the invention of calculus, which was a new kind of math for people
> who thought math wasn't already hard enough. He is also the reason
> why, even today, people who work in apple orchards often wear large,
> protective hats.
>
> Newton's Laws made sense for hundreds of years, and everybody
> believed them. They believed them right up until the time when British
> sports cars were invented, when it was suddenly realized that a whole
> new bunch of laws was going to be needed.
>
> Many distinguished scientists have worked their entire lives to try
> and figure out why British autos never seem to obey any scientific
> laws known to man.
>
> These eminent scientists, with names like Morris, Healey, Leyland,
> Mowog, and Murphy, shook the scientific community when they
> published their new theory of mechanical behavior called "The Laws for
> British Sports Cars." Many people are not familiar with the five major
> laws, so they are listed below with a brief explanation of each.
>
> 1. Law of Peculiar Random Nomenclature
> The name of a British Sports Car shall consist primarily of letters
> and numbers, with said letters and numbers chosen in random fashion so
> that the resultant vehicle name is wholly devoid of meaning.
>
> This law explains why British cars always have spectacularly bad
> names like 'XKE' or worse yet, 'MGBGT'.
>
> 2. Law of Cryptic Instruction
> Any book, manual, pamphlet, or text dealing with the maintenance,
> repair, or restoration of a British Sports Car shall be written so
> that at least every fourth word will be unknown to the average reader.
> In the event that any portion of the text is understandable, the
> information contained therein shall be incorrect.
>
> Most people are familiar with this law. Here is an excerpt from page
> 132 of the MGA shop manual: "Before rebushing the lower grunnion
> banjos, you must remove the bonnet facia and undo the A-arm nut with a
> #3 spanner." All attempts to publish an English language version of
> this manual have failed.
>
> 3. Love of Hardship Law
> The more a British Sports Car malfunctions, breaks, and/or falls
> apart, the more endearing it becomes to the owner.
>
> You buy a British Sports Car. You have had it a year and a half, and
> have replaced every item on the car at least twice. When the engine is
> started it sounds as if someone has thrown a handful of ball bearings
> into a blender. But when someone offers to buy it, you are offended
> because "It's like part of the family, and besides, it's so much fun
> to drive." British Sports Car owners often stare into space and smile
> a lot. This is referred to as the "Foolish Person Syndrome."
>
> 4. Law of Non-Functional Attributes
> All British Sports Cars, regardless of condition or age, shall always
> have at least one system or sub-system of components which is entirely
> non-functional, and cannot be repaired except on a semi-permanent or
> semi-functional basis.
>
> This is also known as the famous Lucas Electrics Law.
>
> 5. Recently Discovered Component Failure Law
> Any component of a British Sports Car which is entirely unknown to the
> owner shall function perfectly, until such time that the owner becomes
> aware of the component's existence, when it shall instantly fail.
>
> Case in point: I have owned a rather natty MGB for six years. I never
> knew there was such a thing as a 'Gulp Valve' until I saw new ones
> offered for sale by Moss Motors. The next day, driving my MGB to work,
> the Gulp Valve fell off the motor and was run over by a truck.
>
> I do not know what the Gulp Valve gulps, nor do I particularly care
> to know, since it sounds messy and dangerous. But I figured I would
> buy a new Gulp Valve and install it myself. One look at the shop
> manual and I decided to have somebody else install it (see Law of
> Cryptic Instructions, above).
>
> While I'm driving the car over to the local repair establishment, I
> notice that the MGB is performing just as well as it ever did and that
> the loss of the mysterious Gulp Valve has not had any effect on its
> behavior. I figure this is due to the Non-functional Attribute Law,
> which means that the Gulp Valve probably wasn't gulping anything
> anyway, so I decided not to replace it after all.
>
> Three days later the engine had no more oil in it and promptly seized
> into a solid mass of metal. The tow truck operator, being ignorant of
> the Love of Hardship Law, offered to take the car off my hands for
> $100.00. I just smiled.
>
Toot toot!
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 12:26:03 -0700
Subject: Re: Fringe Benefits
Greg,
And pictures for the listers will no doubt be forthcoming . . . .
Terry Blubaugh
Greg Bankin wrote:
> I have just spent the afternoon with my BN4 being used as a prop with a
> beautiful bikini clad model for a French swimsuit company fashion shoot.
>
> Aaaah.... the fringe benefits of Healey ownership.
>
> Greg Bankin
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
> Sunshine Coast
> Queensland
> Australia
>
> '58 BN4
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 15:40:30 -0400
Subject: Borescopes
Thanks for your note, Mike; I lowered the head onto clear, lubricated
cylinders about a week ago, and started up yesterday, so I can't figure out
where the foreign oblect would have come from....but I'm very keen to
eliminate this possibility from my investigation.If the borescope is a
signifigant investment for a one-time use, do you know where I could borrow
or rent one?
Stephen
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 16:06:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave 2000
In a message dated 7/29/00 11:53:02 AM, arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net writes:
<< Not to be too curmudgeonly about it, but I've been reading about
Conclave-this and Conclave-that for several weeks now. Did or does anyone
realize that 'conclave' means 'secret?' Cutesy pie handling of the language
for cutesy pie sake still irritates me even though I spent 30 years in the
ad biz.
>>
I've always suspected something like this -- my dictionary defines conclave
as a secret meeting at which the pope is elected. With my tongue firmly in
cheek, Mr. Lownsdale, this sounds like it should be the title of the spring
officers meeting. ;-}
Cheers
gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 16:19:03 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Conclave vs Sex
--part1_d.808504c.26b5e7b7_boundary
--part1_d.808504c.26b5e7b7_boundary
Content-Disposition: inline
Return-path: <Editorgary@aol.com>
From: Editorgary@aol.com
Full-name: Editorgary
Message-ID: <aa.8801679.26b5e7a4@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 16:18:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave vs Sex
To: CAWS52803@aol.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 4.0 for Mac - Post-GM sub 147
In a message dated 7/30/00 6:22:10 AM, CAWS52803@aol.com writes:
<< Now maybe we can get something going in the East like a dual meet with
Sports
& Touring like Fredricksburg, VA in 1981 with over 400 Healeys present.
Rudy in NC >>
Sounds like a great idea for 2002 for all those on the East Coast who can't
make it to the big meet at Tahoe. Just don't schedule it for the same date,
as was done this year, so that the diehards like me, who try to make both
Healey meets in most years, can't manage to do that.
Cheers
Gary
--part1_d.808504c.26b5e7b7_boundary--
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 16:21:54 EDT
Subject: Re: RE: Monterey Historics
In a message dated 7/30/00 9:31:23 AM, BEmerson@scitor.com writes:
<<
This might be a good year to go to the Monterey races on SATURDAY. Phil
Coombs will be racing his 100-S. This is the first time since 1992 that a
100-S has participated. (Last time it was my 100-S which beat the (All but
Allards)..... Phil is an EXCELLENT driver and should provide some
delight to the crowd when passing the Jags, Ferraris etc.... Look for Phil
in the pits where you will find some interesting 100-S photos on display.
Bill Emerson >>
Also, consider coming to the rolling concours on Lighthouse Ave in Pacific
Grove on Friday afternoon and evening. Nice informal gathering of interesting
cars, starting at 12:30, followed by a rolling tour designed to jam up
traffic all through the peninsula starting at 6:00 pm, then a charity barbq
at 7:30 back in Pacific Grove. Look for us there.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 13:37:21 -0700
Subject: Re: humor (minimal Healey content)
Ray-
Thanks for reminding many of us of this classic bit of wit and enlightening
those Listers who have never seen it before.
It was from Moss Motors' Summer 1985 Newsletter, credited to Don Hayward,
Waterville, OH.
Before the yellowed clipping mounted on my garage wall became too indistinct,
I rendered it into somewhat better formatted MSWord version. Happy to send it
to anyone who requests. Just reply to me (but not also to the list) and
please don't change the subject. "Laws.doc", 2 pages, but could be shrunk to
one by playing with spacing, fonts and page margins.
Does anyone have a copy of the Lucas/smoke/pipe thesis? That yellowed
clipping is beyond the level of effort I'm willing to put into decipherment.
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
Ray Juncal wrote:
> Listers
> This was sent to me by my friend Tony , who wouldnt you know it , runs
> a resto shop for Fiats of all things!!!
> Healey on
> Ray
>
> > The Laws for British Sports Cars
> >
> > Most of us are familiar with the physical laws thought up by Isaac
> > Newton, the guy who invented gravity. He said things like "For every
> > action there is an equal and opposite reaction" and "If you sit under
> > a tree long enough, an apple will eventually fall on your head,
> > provided you are sitting under an apple tree."
> >
> > Isaac was considered very intelligent and was eventually responsible
> > for the invention of calculus, which was a new kind of math for people
> > who thought math wasn't already hard enough. He is also the reason
> > why, even today, people who work in apple orchards often wear large,
> > protective hats.
> >
> > Newton's Laws made sense for hundreds of years, and everybody
> > believed them. They believed them right up until the time when British
> > sports cars were invented, when it was suddenly realized that a whole
> > new bunch of laws was going to be needed.
> >
> > Many distinguished scientists have worked their entire lives to try
> > and figure out why British autos never seem to obey any scientific
> > laws known to man.
> >
> > These eminent scientists, with names like Morris, Healey, Leyland,
> > Mowog, and Murphy, shook the scientific community when they
> > published their new theory of mechanical behavior called "The Laws for
> > British Sports Cars." Many people are not familiar with the five major
> > laws, so they are listed below with a brief explanation of each.
> >
> > 1. Law of Peculiar Random Nomenclature
> > The name of a British Sports Car shall consist primarily of letters
> > and numbers, with said letters and numbers chosen in random fashion so
> > that the resultant vehicle name is wholly devoid of meaning.
> >
> > This law explains why British cars always have spectacularly bad
> > names like 'XKE' or worse yet, 'MGBGT'.
> >
> > 2. Law of Cryptic Instruction
> > Any book, manual, pamphlet, or text dealing with the maintenance,
> > repair, or restoration of a British Sports Car shall be written so
> > that at least every fourth word will be unknown to the average reader.
> > In the event that any portion of the text is understandable, the
> > information contained therein shall be incorrect.
> >
> > Most people are familiar with this law. Here is an excerpt from page
> > 132 of the MGA shop manual: "Before rebushing the lower grunnion
> > banjos, you must remove the bonnet facia and undo the A-arm nut with a
> > #3 spanner." All attempts to publish an English language version of
> > this manual have failed.
> >
> > 3. Love of Hardship Law
> > The more a British Sports Car malfunctions, breaks, and/or falls
> > apart, the more endearing it becomes to the owner.
> >
> > You buy a British Sports Car. You have had it a year and a half, and
> > have replaced every item on the car at least twice. When the engine is
> > started it sounds as if someone has thrown a handful of ball bearings
> > into a blender. But when someone offers to buy it, you are offended
> > because "It's like part of the family, and besides, it's so much fun
> > to drive." British Sports Car owners often stare into space and smile
> > a lot. This is referred to as the "Foolish Person Syndrome."
> >
> > 4. Law of Non-Functional Attributes
> > All British Sports Cars, regardless of condition or age, shall always
> > have at least one system or sub-system of components which is entirely
> > non-functional, and cannot be repaired except on a semi-permanent or
> > semi-functional basis.
> >
> > This is also known as the famous Lucas Electrics Law.
> >
> > 5. Recently Discovered Component Failure Law
> > Any component of a British Sports Car which is entirely unknown to the
> > owner shall function perfectly, until such time that the owner becomes
> > aware of the component's existence, when it shall instantly fail.
> >
> > Case in point: I have owned a rather natty MGB for six years. I never
> > knew there was such a thing as a 'Gulp Valve' until I saw new ones
> > offered for sale by Moss Motors. The next day, driving my MGB to work,
> > the Gulp Valve fell off the motor and was run over by a truck.
> >
> > I do not know what the Gulp Valve gulps, nor do I particularly care
> > to know, since it sounds messy and dangerous. But I figured I would
> > buy a new Gulp Valve and install it myself. One look at the shop
> > manual and I decided to have somebody else install it (see Law of
> > Cryptic Instructions, above).
> >
> > While I'm driving the car over to the local repair establishment, I
> > notice that the MGB is performing just as well as it ever did and that
> > the loss of the mysterious Gulp Valve has not had any effect on its
> > behavior. I figure this is due to the Non-functional Attribute Law,
> > which means that the Gulp Valve probably wasn't gulping anything
> > anyway, so I decided not to replace it after all.
> >
> > Three days later the engine had no more oil in it and promptly seized
> > into a solid mass of metal. The tow truck operator, being ignorant of
> > the Love of Hardship Law, offered to take the car off my hands for
> > $100.00. I just smiled.
> >
>
> Toot toot!
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 17:05:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Heater Air Control Knob
In a message dated 7/29/00 4:45:53 PM, JSoderling@aol.com writes:
<< My Owners Handbook says, "pull out the knob on
the right-hand side of the heater control panel to regulate the supply of air
from the heater. When fully out the air supply is completely shut off."
So I guess during the summer I should have both the left side and the right
side knobs OUT. >>
Here's the way I understand that mine works -- Pulling out the "cold air"
knob on the left (labeled "Pull") opens a damper at the front of the engine
compartment, allowing ambient air at the grille to seep through a duct into
the left side foot well. Pulling out the "air from heater" knob on the right
(which should be labeled "push") closes a damper just under the facia between
the blower duct and the heater box and cuts off air into the heater box.
Pushing in the knob on the slider (labeled "Heater control") turns the heater
blower off. Pushing the slider to the left closes the water valve between
the engine and the heater core.
Therefore, in warm weather, you want both round knobs pulled out, and the
oval knob pushed in and over to the left.
Of course, since on most Healeys there is probably a square foot of openings
on the firewall between the engine compartment and the interior, the flow of
hot air from the engine will easily overwhelm whatever little bit of
difference this panel makes.
But, like the "close doors" button on elevators, which everyone knows is not
hooked up to anything, it might make you feel better to push and pull these
knobs.
Cheers
gary
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 14:26:14 -0700
Subject: Back Issues
I'm searching for the April, 1954 issue of Road and Track magazine.
Does anyone have a copy for sale?
Terry Blubaugh
From JSoderling at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 17:43:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics
Bill,
I planning on going to the Monterey Historics this year. Never been before.
I was going to go on Sunday to go with the Golden Gate Austin Healey Club,
but would love to see coombs and the 100-S race.
Not being familiar with the format, why will he be running only on Saturday?
Thanks for an explanation.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From Alan at roverworks.com (Alan Simpson)
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 15:01:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Back Issues
>Hello Terry. Try lawrence Romanosky <lromanosky@yahoo.com>. Great guy to
deal with.
From JSoderling at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 18:06:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Heater Air Control Knob
Gary,
Thanks for the very informative explanation. I now understand it. I've been
running it with the Heater Air Control (HAC) knob "in" this summer, and now
know that it should be "out".
Question. With it pulled "out", does additional fresh air (with no heat
added from the heater core) come into the footwell area via the right side
duct from the grill area? If so, I guess it would come into both footwells
through the hinged heater vent doors? Or, when pulled out, does it cut off
all air through the right side ducting? With all the heat in the footwells,
I can't feel any difference with the HAC knob in or out.
Thanks.
john
100-Six Erika the Red
From Mike Tobin <bt7 at pppatch.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 18:06:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Heater Air Control Knob
The heater knobs on the Healey always remind of the controls on a Peugeot
403. They look nice, but it's not clear what they do.
I learned to drive in my parents' 403, the first Peugeot sold by a dealer
in Calif (so we were told). The controls were mostly push/pull and
embossed with the first letter of their function. The first letter of the
French word, of course.
The manual was apparently Peugeot's first attempt at English and the
descriptions ranged from humorous to incomprehensible. The choke was
referred to as the "Strangler". The leftmost knob was la bled in the
manual "With and Without". That's it. With or Without what we never knew.
The knob's position never had an effect on anything that anyone could tell
- just like a Healey's "climate controls".
Cheers,
Mike Tobin
Enough parts to build a BT7
At 05:05 PM 07/30/2000 Sunday -0400, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
>
>In a message dated 7/29/00 4:45:53 PM, JSoderling@aol.com writes:
>
><< My Owners Handbook says, "pull out the knob on
>the right-hand side of the heater control panel to regulate the supply of air
>from the heater. When fully out the air supply is completely shut off."
>So I guess during the summer I should have both the left side and the right
>side knobs OUT. >>
>
>Here's the way I understand that mine works -- Pulling out the "cold air"
>knob on the left (labeled "Pull") opens a damper at the front of the engine
>compartment, allowing ambient air at the grille to seep through a duct into
>the left side foot well. Pulling out the "air from heater" knob on the right
>(which should be labeled "push") closes a damper just under the facia between
>the blower duct and the heater box and cuts off air into the heater box.
>Pushing in the knob on the slider (labeled "Heater control") turns the heater
>blower off. Pushing the slider to the left closes the water valve between
>the engine and the heater core.
>
>Therefore, in warm weather, you want both round knobs pulled out, and the
>oval knob pushed in and over to the left.
>
>Of course, since on most Healeys there is probably a square foot of openings
>on the firewall between the engine compartment and the interior, the flow of
>hot air from the engine will easily overwhelm whatever little bit of
>difference this panel makes.
>
>But, like the "close doors" button on elevators, which everyone knows is not
>hooked up to anything, it might make you feel better to push and pull these
>knobs.
>
>Cheers
>gary
From JSoderling at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 18:10:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Fringe Benefits
Greg,
If they would like to shoot some shots over here in the States, I have a nice
BN4 ready to participate with bikini clad models!!!! Send them my way.
John
100-Six Erika the kRed
From "Colin O'Brien" <cob at atg.com.au>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 08:52:43 +1000
Subject: Re: Fringe Benefits
Any work coming up in Sydney!!
Colin O'Brien
BJ8 ph1
BN7 mk1
--
> From: "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
> Reply-To: "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
> Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 20:22:52 +1000
> To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Fringe Benefits
>
>
> I have just spent the afternoon with my BN4 being used as a prop with a
> beautiful bikini clad model for a French swimsuit company fashion shoot.
>
> Aaaah.... the fringe benefits of Healey ownership.
>
> Greg Bankin
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
> Sunshine Coast
> Queensland
> Australia
>
> '58 BN4
>
From JRLNJ at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 19:32:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics
Gary,
Can we buy tickets to the charity barbeque on site Friday evening? I will be
there, but without the Healey (long drive from New Jersey for barbeque).
If you have any details, please include them.
Thanks,
Ray Lynch
BJ8
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 20:03:37 EDT
Subject: Bikini-clad beauties
On our way up to the Rendezvous meet, several of us stopped at a scenic
overlook on the Oregon coast. A youngish couple who had been wind-surfing
down in the cove came up to look at the Healeys, he in a tee-shirt, shorts,
and flip-flops, she in a bikini top and pareo wrapped around her waist. They
admired the cars, then asked Roger Hawk if they could take a picture of her
by Roger's 100 (the one on the cover of the last Healey magazine). The
husband then convinced his wife that since this was a "car picture" she
should be just in her bikini, so she removed the wrap. Amazing how fast
cameras came out of the other cars so we could help the husband take pictures
of his wife in her bikini leaning against Roger's car.
Cheers
gary
From JustBrits at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 20:16:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Any word...
In a message dated 07/30/2000 8:30:41 AM Central Daylight Time,
CAWS52803@aol.com writes:
<< As usual, Ed didn't come through. >>
Huuum, Fat Mouth Rudy "speaking" again!! There has NEVER, in my 22+ years
of AHCA and most Conclaves thereof, been ANYTHING that I have been asked to
do which I have not!!
Proof?? In the list of Honorary Members in the AHCA Membership Directory:
R. Chrysler - 1979, 1988, 1990, and 1992.
Ed Kaler - 1985 and 1992
Mark Miller - 1986, 1988, 1991, 1992, and 1993.
Kevin Sharp - 1991 and 1992
R. Streng - 1992.
(Only "repeats" and "Fat Mouth" cited!)
<<Not only didn't he have the party, >>
Was NOT asked to do the HS and did not offer to do it. Much less was I
contacted for even a donation of a door prize (which I would have done).
"Meet holders": Want my money and support - geeez, ya gotta ASK!!
<<...he didn't make the best and most important meet of the year. >>
SOME folks actually have to WORK for a living.
<<Luckily, there was
a good hospitality with almost never ending kegs of beer available.
>>
And HAD I been asked, woulda sprung for a couple of them!!
Cheers..............
Ed
PS: DID have HI reservs., had plan'd to attend, AND "REALLY" WANTED TO!!!
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 21:07:36 -0400
Subject: More on Borescopes & noise
Mike,and anyone else who may be following this, I've done some limited
investigating, and thinking.
I've peered into the spark plug hole with a flash light and couldn't see
anything untoward, so I then
coated a piece of wire with plastic, and felt arround the top of the
cylinder as much as I could...again,
it seems OK. Then I got to thinking about the timing of the knock; it
didn't sound as though it was on every stroke of the piston, but more like
every opening of a valve. Following this line of thinking, I'm going to
take the rocker shaft off and look for causes of oil starvation. I don't
think I can eliminate
the possibility of something in the cylinder yet, but it looks promising so
far.
Let me know what you think.
Regards, Stephen
From HealeyHey at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 21:05:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Back Issues (Sports Car Illustrated)
Terry,
I have the following pieces, for anyone interested:
Sports Cars Illustrated - August 1959 - Austin Healey Cover & 3000 Road Test.
Sports Cars Illustrated - February 1957 - Austin Healey 100-6 (First Full)
Road Test.
Yeah, I know the articles have been reproduced in far too many portfolios and
the like, but I dig these old magazines purely for all of the neat
advertisements and fad gadgets of the day.
Alfred Haymond
Altadena, CA
62' BT7 tricarb
From Healybj8 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 22:02:15 EDT
Subject: Volvo Question - Not Healey, but help if you can
OK, its that time of the year again when everyone with a european sports car
wants to sell me their project.
Car one is a Volvo 1800 S. Straight car that has been sitting outside for a
few years. All there but needs work. Straight body, but there are a few
rust bubbles appearing beneath the paint. I know what the car is, but
nothing about what to look for. Engine is not seized, but it needs paint,
interior and a rear light lens. Guy wants $1100. Anyone know what these are
worth? What kind of parts are available? What should I look out for?
Car two is an MGBGT. (Read those british rules.) That one is a no brainer.
Runs drives, but no brakes save that of the hand brake. $600!!!
Car three is a Sunbeam Alpine. Sat in a Garage for the last 15 years. One
owner. All there. $100!!! How can I say no.
Anyway, is the Volvo worth picking up?
TIA
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 19:29:59 -0700
Subject: Vacation....
Time to check out for vacation see you all in sept...Neil
From howard young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 21:35:54 -0500
Subject: [Fwd: tranny trouble -advice needed]
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Content-Disposition: inline
Message-ID: <3984E5E0.3A10E745@bellsouth.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 21:35:12 -0500
From: howard young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.04 [en]C-bls40 (Win95; U)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: jack_rosen <jack_rosen@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: tranny trouble -advice needed
References: <3a.8453ce9.26adb750@aol.com>
<001a01bff589$9f961100$57790fd8@coop1> <20000724235936.10622.qmail@hotmail.com>
Yeah! like in accounting/economics,plumbing and electrical work!!!!
HoYo
jack_rosen wrote:
> Oh, and it's not a synchro problem,
> those are the gozintas problems
> not the gozoutas.
>
> jr
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Coop1" <coop1@dnai.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 12:10 PM
> Subject: tranny trouble -advice needed
>
> >
> > Greetings listers
> >
> > I have a problem that needs diagnosis and fix recommendations please. This
> > weekend while stretching my Healey ('66 BJ8) out on the road, the gear
> > shifter popped out of 2nd and 4th gears three times each. It has done this
> > in the past but not so often. It only pops out of gear when coasting or
> > going downhill under compression - never under acceleration. Also, the
> only
> > way I can reliably get my car into 1st gear at a dead stop without
> crunching
> > is first slip it into 2nd and then slide it up into 1st. Is this a
> problem
> > or a common issue with these beasts? So (as my neighbor suggests), are my
> > syncro gears messed up? If so, what is involved in the fix? Thanks in
> > advance guys. Randy Harris
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <CNAArndt@aol.com>
> > To: <WilKo@aol.com>
> > Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 8:14 AM
> > Subject: Re: Newest Owner - Harrison Ford?!?
> >
> >
> > >
> > > In a message dated 07/19/2000 2:00:44 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > WilKo@aol.com
> > > writes:
> > >
> > > << I heard (anecdotally) of Carroll Oconnor (sp) being in a bidding war
> > with
> > > a
> > > Healey owner over a rare hardtop for a BJ8. >>
> > >
> > > Hi all
> > >
> > > Carroll O'Conner did indeed have a BRG BJ8 a few years ago (and may
> > still),
> > > which I saw a few years ago a Randy Cook's shop "Healey Masters' in Los
> > > Angeles. It was one of the most original and rust free Healeys that
> I've
> > > ever seen. I saw the car both assembled and complete and as a bare
> > chassis
> > > prior to a complete restoration.
> > >
> > > As the story goes, Randy had known the previous owner for many years and
> > had
> > > worked on the cars over the years. When Mr. O'Conner purchased the car
> > along
> > > with every spare available to include a complete spare drivetrain, Randy
> > was
> > > asked to do a complete ground up restoration on the car. Knowing the
> car
> > as
> > > well as he did, and that it was a virtual Time capsule it was so
> original,
> > > Randy was very reluctant to completely disassemble the car and destroy
> > that
> > > originality. Like I said having seen the car all that was needed was a
> > > thorough reconditioning of the car.
> > >
> > > Well anyway, Mr. O'Conner then took the car to one of the premier auto
> > > restoration shops in LA to have it done his way! A few months later the
> > bare
> > > chassis, still with the original paint, was back at Randy's shop.
> > Apparently
> > > this shop was a very busy place and since they were not Healey experts
> and
> > > Healey Masters was, Randy was contracted to restore the chassis anyway,
> > which
> > > he did at a premium I might add.
> > >
> > > I wish I had gotten some pictures of the bare chassis, as it was truly
> one
> > of
> > > the last of the low mileage, original and undamaged ones.
> > >
> > > Cheers
> > >
> > > Curt Arndt
> > >
> >
> >
> >
--------------0347D2195DAA596F77C9D70E--
From "Alan J. Toepfer" <ajtoepfe at flash.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 20:58:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Flash or no Flash
My BT7L/1173, built 5 May 1959, has no flash on the boot lid and no holes
that were painted over in the restoration job. I also believe the boot lid
is the original - no signs of a rear collision on the car.
Al Toepfer
----------
>From: David Neale <dneale@pacbell.net>
>To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Flash or no Flash
>Date: Thu, Jul 27, 2000, 8:15 AM
>
>
> I am a recent healey owner and member of "The List".
>
> Thanks for all the tips and info!
>
> I recently purchased a 1960 BN7 which, according to my new BMCIHT cert was
> built "31-March-1-April 1959". The boot lid is not fitted with a "3000
> Flash" below the "Austin Healey" sign. Gary Andersons wonderful book
> suggests that the "3000 flash" was fitted "from introduction of the 3000 to
> the end of production".
>
> For authenticity reasons should I add the Flash. From inside inspection,
> the boot lid does not show signs of any additional holes below the "AH" sign
> that give a hint of its previous existence.
>
> Mine appears to be an early production model. Were any productions cars
> built without the Flash?
>
> Thank you.
> Dave
> H-BN7-L/472
>
>
>
>
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 22:30:53 -0700
Subject: Santa Barbara Shows
Listers
Does anyone have info on the concours to be held in Santa Barbara?
I believe there is one in August and the big one in September.
Help would be appreciated.
Ron Rader
Marina del Rey, CA
1965 BJ8
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 17:59:00 +1000
Subject: Re: Fringe Benefits
> And what's wrong with that?. Sure he could have gone home with both, next
> thing you know they're married followed by divorce and the next thing you
> know she's driving away with the Healey
Ain't that the truth !
> I've managed to keep mine through three divorces. Kept marrying women who
> thought it was a piece of junk, so my luck hasn't been all bad.
I bought my Healey after my 1st divorce (didn't THAT make her happy).
Partner number 2 started off loving the car and driving it almost as much as
I did, but ended up referring to it as "that pile of crap" (funny how
women's opinions change like that).
Rules for potential partners in relationship number 3
1. THE HEALEY STAYS
2. If said partner feels that too much time/money is being spent on the
Healey, refer to rule 1
Funny !!! No applicants for the position so far !
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 02:49:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Flash or no Flash
Surprised that no one has mentioned this yet in this thread... or maybe I
just missed it.
It is well-established that early 3000 models had 100-6 badges on their
grills, and also had "100-6" on their horn buttons. The common wisdom is
that BMC was either using up the stock of 100-6 grill flashes and horn
buttons or waiting for the 3000 grill flash (and plain horn button) to
become available. Whether this was forced (because the new badges and horn
buttons were not yet ready and no one wanted to hold up production for
something relatively trivial) or voluntary (they didn't want to waste the
excess 100-6 badges and horn buttons), is not clearly established, although
I lean toward the camp that says the new stuff was not ready and they did
not want to hold up the show.
Therefore it is no surprise that an early 3000 would not have a 3000 flash
on the boot lid. In fact, it almost undoubtedly had a 100-6 badge fitted to
the grill, but in the individual case if your car that 100-6 badge was
probably replaced with the "correct" 3000 flash at some point in the past.
Therefore, for strict orignality you should place a 100-6 flash on the grill
and not have a 3000 (or 100-6) flash on the boot lid. If you're worried
about concours judging -- and aren't we all? ;-) -- you'd almost undoubtedly
get away with 3000 badges in both places, but as I say, if you are
interested in strict originality -- even stricter than that enforced by the
Concours Police -- my best advice would be a 100-6 flash on the grill, and
no flash on the boot lid.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
http://www.healey.org
On Sat, 29 Jul 2000 20:06:58 EDT, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 7/27/00 8:06:02 PM, dneale@pacbell.net writes:
>
> << I recently purchased a 1960 BN7 which, according to my new BMCIHT cert
was
> built "31-March-1-April 1959". The boot lid is not fitted with a "3000
> Flash" below the "Austin Healey" sign. Gary Andersons wonderful book
> suggests that the "3000 flash" was fitted "from introduction of the 3000
to
> the end of production".
>
> For authenticity reasons should I add the Flash. From inside inspection,
> the boot lid does not show signs of any additional holes below the "AH"
sign
> that give a hint of its previous existence.
>
> Mine appears to be an early production model. Were any productions cars
> built without the Flash?
> >>
>
> After I log off, I'm going to check to see what I wrote in The Book.
Hope
> that I didn't write that the flash was fitted from the beginning, since I
> have a friend in my own neighborhood with one in the first 200 production
> BT7s, that doesn't have the flash on the back, and since seeing that car,
> I've found several others. We don't know when they decided that, duh,
the
> same flash on the front grille could be put on the back deck lid for
further
> product identification. Pretty sure they started sometime during the
summer.
>
> In any case, unless you're prone to insigniae envy, I'd just leave it
off,
> and tell anyone who notices that this is an artifact of the first few
weeks
> of production. If I find that the book is wrong, I'll add that note to
our
> errata sheet and include it in the next printing.
> Have fun with your new acquisition.
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 06:53:21 EDT
Subject: generator/alternator
Does anyone know if it is possible to stuff an alternator inside the case of
a generator in order to have the benefits of the former while keeping the
appearance of the latter?
Michael, BN1
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 08:26:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Any word...
Hi Ed,
I guess my thoughts of you wanting to attend Texas Roundup and Conclave and
not being able to get to them, was overstated as "not coming through".
Anyone who has been in the club for so long, knows that you were always such
an active member and now that you are in the parts business, you would
definitely attend a business related event. The "fat mouth" may be
justified, but the comment "someone has to work" is pretty lame.
Fat Mouth Rudy
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 09:55:06 -0400
Subject: Re: More on Borescopes & noise
When are u home today? I'll come over and have a look with my
stethoscope, boroscope and speculum.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: S.HUTCHINGS <hutching@myna.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: July 30, 2000 9:07 PM
Subject: More on Borescopes & noise
>
> Mike,and anyone else who may be following this, I've done some
limited
> investigating, and thinking.
> I've peered into the spark plug hole with a flash light and
couldn't see
> anything untoward, so I then
> coated a piece of wire with plastic, and felt arround the top of
the
> cylinder as much as I could...again,
> it seems OK. Then I got to thinking about the timing of the
knock; it
> didn't sound as though it was on every stroke of the piston, but
more like
> every opening of a valve. Following this line of thinking, I'm
going to
> take the rocker shaft off and look for causes of oil starvation.
I don't
> think I can eliminate
> the possibility of something in the cylinder yet, but it looks
promising so
> far.
> Let me know what you think.
> Regards, Stephen
>
>
>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 10:19:14 -0400
Subject: Re: More on Borescopes & noise
"S.HUTCHINGS" wrote:
> Mike,and anyone else who may be following this, I've done some limited
> investigating, and thinking.
> I've peered into the spark plug hole with a flash light and couldn't see
> anything untoward, so I then
> coated a piece of wire with plastic, and felt arround the top of the
> cylinder as much as I could...again,
> it seems OK. Then I got to thinking about the timing of the knock; it
> didn't sound as though it was on every stroke of the piston, but more like
> every opening of a valve. Following this line of thinking, I'm going to
> take the rocker shaft off and look for causes of oil starvation. I don't
> think I can eliminate
> the possibility of something in the cylinder yet, but it looks promising so
> far.
> Let me know what you think.
> Regards, Stephen
Tough call.
You have adjusted the tappets so it is unlikely that one of those is too tight.
You may be smart to check for spring binding on the valve springs. You should
be able to slide a feeler gauge between the valve spring coils with the valve
fully open.
I don't think oil supply problems to the rocker shaft is a likely cause but it
is worth checking.
Here are some things to try:
Does the noise change when you short out the spark plugs one at a time?
Does it occur at all times i.e. when you increase the RPM does it get louder or
go away?
Do a compression check if possible.
Remove the plugs and turn the engine over but pulling on the fan. Any sign of a
tight spot?
Keep me posted...I still thinking.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From David Neale <dneale at pacbell.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 07:37:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Spanners
Another question from a new boy on the block!
Healeys 1960-1968.
I want to buy a set of "Spanners" and/or socket wrenches for work on my
healey.
What standard was used, SAE, UNS, Metric? and where can European Standard
sets be purchased?
I spoke with A&Healy Spares in UK and they said UNS but I didn't recognize
the standard.
Hope this is not a stupid question!
Thanks in advance.
DAVID NEALE
BN7
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 08:27:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Monterey Historics
Ian/all,
I plan on bringing my white BN7 from Thousand Oaks as
well. It is easy to recogonize with the driving
lights and no-front-bumper. We will be arriving early
Friday afternoon. Last year we parked in the dirt at
the top of a hill. A little dusty but lots of fun. A
coral would be great!
If anyone is driving up from So.Cal and would like to
caravan please let me know.
At least we should pick a meeting time at the track
just to say hello and share a beer.
Should be great this year.
Dean
BN7
--- JSoderling@aol.com wrote:
>
> Ian,
> The Golden Gate Austin Healey Club, which is
> affiliated with the Austin
> Healey Club of America, is scheduled to have a club
> event at the Monterey
> Historics on Sunday, 8/20/00. I recall that during
> the spring planning
> meeting that there was talk of trying to get a
> parking corral for Healeys. I
> hope they get it set up because I want to go too and
> will take my Healey if
> there's preferred parking. You should email the
> GGAHC Pres, David Nock, as I
> recall he is in charge of this event. His email is
> hlydoc@aol.com. He is up
> at the Rendezvous 2000 this week.
> Unfortunately the AHCUSA has no local clubs and
> therefore has no activities,
> such as, going to the Historics.
> Where do you live? I don't find your name in
> membership listing in the
> AHCUSA Resource Book. I live in Walnut Creek, CA.
> Hope to caravan down with you if you're in my area,
> or see you at the races.
> John Soderling
> 100-Six Erika the Red
>
__________________________________________________
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 08:32:17 -0700
Subject: heater knob
Just a tip for the hot weather.
The vent knob will not give any air to the passenger.
To provide for the passenger, turn off the hot water supply to the heater
via the engine block petcock. Then you can turn on the heater fan so that
the passenger can get some semi cool air to the feet. After opening the
metal flaps in the footwell, of course.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 12:02:39 -0400
Subject: RE: Heater Air Control Knob
its a healy..... hot air from both sides
-----Original Message-----
From: JSoderling@aol.com [mailto:JSoderling@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2000 7:34 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Heater Air Control Knob
Hi all,
I've owned my 100-Six now for 10 months and I still am not sure of what the
Heater Air Control knob does. My Owners Handbook says, "pull out the knob
on
the right-hand side of the heater control panel to regulate the supply of
air
from the heater. When fully out the air supply is completely shut off."
So I guess during the summer I should have both the left side and the right
side knobs OUT. This opens the "cold air supply to the driver and shuts off
the heater supply to both sides? I can't tell any difference in what's
coming out from the ducts with the right-hand side knob in or out. Someone
also told me that this knob controls the heater air to the defroster vents.
Can someone give me the straight scoop? I want to have it right so I get
minimum heated air in the cockpit this summer!!!
Thanks
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From Tom Dugger <tdugger at ibm.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 11:08:03 -0500
Subject: Re: More on Borescopes & noise
I have not been following this thread closely, but, would like to offer this:
Eight or ten years ago I had a S10 p/u. I got it at birth. It developed a funny
knocking around 75K miles. At least two very knowledgeable people advised me
that there was something in the combustion chamber. I doubted this greatly,
considering I had never put anything in there except air and gas.
The knock was defined, intermittent, and worse when first cranked.
I decided anything in the combustion chamber would be rhythmic and destructive.
Cause: Loosened bolt which held on the torque converter; just enough to allow
for a hollow knock when rpm and demand conditions changed.
I purpose, therefore, you consider pulleys, pumps, clutch pressure plate,
etc....
good luck,
tom bn2
"S.HUTCHINGS" wrote:
> Mike,and anyone else who may be following this, I've done some limited
> investigating, and thinking.
> I've peered into the spark plug hole with a flash light and couldn't see
> anything untoward, so I then
> coated a piece of wire with plastic, and felt arround the top of the
> cylinder as much as I could...again,
> it seems OK. Then I got to thinking about the timing of the knock; it
> didn't sound as though it was on every stroke of the piston, but more like
> every opening of a valve. Following this line of thinking, I'm going to
> take the rocker shaft off and look for causes of oil starvation. I don't
> think I can eliminate
> the possibility of something in the cylinder yet, but it looks promising so
> far.
> Let me know what you think.
> Regards, Stephen
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 12:35:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: More on Borescopes & noise
Proctoscope?
---- you wrote:
>
> When are u home today? I'll come over and have a look with my
> stethoscope, boroscope and speculum.
>
> Mike L.
> 60A,67E,59Bug
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: S.HUTCHINGS <hutching@myna.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: July 30, 2000 9:07 PM
> Subject: More on Borescopes & noise
>
>
> >
> > Mike,and anyone else who may be following this, I've done some
> limited
> > investigating, and thinking.
> > I've peered into the spark plug hole with a flash light and
> couldn't see
> > anything untoward, so I then
> > coated a piece of wire with plastic, and felt arround the top of
> the
> > cylinder as much as I could...again,
> > it seems OK. Then I got to thinking about the timing of the
> knock; it
> > didn't sound as though it was on every stroke of the piston, but
> more like
> > every opening of a valve. Following this line of thinking, I'm
> going to
> > take the rocker shaft off and look for causes of oil starvation.
> I don't
> > think I can eliminate
> > the possibility of something in the cylinder yet, but it looks
> promising so
> > far.
> > Let me know what you think.
> > Regards, Stephen
> >
> >
> >
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 09:29:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Flash or no Flash
HBN7L8340 - With Flash
Dean
--- Martin Johnson <MJohnson@cfworks.com> wrote:
>
> I too have no evidence of holes for a "3000" flash
> on my car, HBN7L1039 on
> my trunklid. I thought maybe it came from a Hundred
> Six. I am interested
> in this information too.
> Martin Johnson
>
__________________________________________________
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 14:33:29 EDT
Subject: Pacific Grove Concours Auto Rally
For all those who asked for additional information on the "rolling concours"
during Monterey Historics weekend, here's the deal:
12:30 to 5:00 - registration and staging of cars along Lighthouse Avenue in
Pacific Grove for informal show. Open to any cars of special interest.
6:15 Cars will be launched and proceed along route through Monterey, 17 mile
drive, and Carmel and back to Chatauqua Hall in Pacific Grove
7:00 Barbecue dinner
Proceeds to benefit Pacific Grove Youth Action, Inc.
Cost $45 (plus additional $15 if registering after Aug 2d) for car
registration and driver's bbq dinner.
$35 of each registration fee is tax deductible.
$20 for additional adult dinners
$10 for kids' dinners
Registration information can be obtained at 831-647-6355 or pgcar@yahoo.com
That's all the information I have on it. Any other questions, you'll have to
ask them.
Hope to see some of you there.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 14:47:23 EDT
Subject: Re: Flash or no Flash
In a message dated 7/31/00 2:06:19 AM, AHCUSA@excite.com writes:
<< Therefore it is no surprise that an early 3000 would not have a 3000 flash
on the boot lid. In fact, it almost undoubtedly had a 100-6 badge fitted to
the grill, but in the individual case if your car that 100-6 badge was
probably replaced with the "correct" 3000 flash at some point in the past.
>>
And you base this conjecture on what?
So far, we have gotten several reports of early production 3000s with no 3000
flash on the boot lid, but none of these folks have reported that they had a
100/6 flash on the front grille. I've certainly never seen one. If anyone
out there does have a very early 3000 that has a 100-6 flash on the grille,
I'd be interested in hearing about it.
Actually, with regard to the horn button, we have found a number (five or
six) early production 3000s that had 100-six flashes (with the 100 AND the 6)
on their horn buttons, but the button had been painted over black to cover
the entire button (so it looked like a Hundred button).
So, my best advice for those interested in concours who have cars
manufactured during the first three months or so of 3000 production that you
just replace the emblems that you find on the car and then point the
anomalies out to the concours judges at the beginning of your judging. It's
not likely that you'll be deducted for these.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 14:51:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Spanners
In a message dated 7/31/00 7:10:55 AM, dneale@pacbell.net writes:
<<
What standard was used, SAE, UNS, Metric? and where can European Standard
sets be purchased? >>
Healeys from 1960 to 1968 have all SAE/UNF nuts and bolts (or nearly all --
there may be one or two exceptions, but if there are I've suppressed the
memory. A standard inch -dimension set of socket wrenchs and combination
wrenches will take care of your needs.
Or you could just attack it with a vice-grips, a crescent wrench, and a
pliers.
Cheers
Gary
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 15:51:45 -0400
Subject: The"what's that noise" saga
I'm glad to relate that the latest developement in my strange noise looks
positive.
Mike Lupynec dropped by today with his Doctor's bag, and, while we couldn't
narrow anything down by just cranking the engine, once it was running the
stethescope located #12 &11 valves as being the location of the noise.
Looking further, we saw that the pushrod / rocker interface on those two
appeared
to be dry......hmmmm,; It looks as though it's that new rocker shaft -oil
starvation problem Perry told
me about. Mike thinks I may have misled you all by calling it a knock, but
it's difficult to describe a sound accurately....it was definately more
strident that your average valve noise.
Thanks to everyone for your carefully considered answers; I'm glad I won't
become " that guy who had a nut in his cylinder!"
Stephen BJ8
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 13:21:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Spanners
I too have suppressed the details within my (generally failing anyway) memory,
but I distinctly remember I found at least five different threads in use on my
BJ7, including I think UNC, UNF, BNF, metric (the SUs) and- just to keep one
awake- one Whitworth. However, except for one bolt, a standard set as Gary
says works fine. I can't remember which that one was, but can still remember
the delight of being able to get a clean hold on it with my Xmas present from
my wife one year, a lovely set of Snap-on British combinations.
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 7/31/00 7:10:55 AM, dneale@pacbell.net writes:
>
> <<
> What standard was used, SAE, UNS, Metric? and where can European Standard
> sets be purchased? >>
>
> Healeys from 1960 to 1968 have all SAE/UNF nuts and bolts (or nearly all --
> there may be one or two exceptions, but if there are I've suppressed the
> memory. A standard inch -dimension set of socket wrenchs and combination
> wrenches will take care of your needs.
>
> Or you could just attack it with a vice-grips, a crescent wrench, and a
> pliers.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 16:53:27 -0400
Subject: RE: Bikini-clad beauties
ok, I'LL BITE, LETS SEE THE PICTURES!
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2000 8:04 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Bikini-clad beauties
On our way up to the Rendezvous meet, several of us stopped at a scenic
overlook on the Oregon coast. A youngish couple who had been wind-surfing
down in the cove came up to look at the Healeys, he in a tee-shirt, shorts,
and flip-flops, she in a bikini top and pareo wrapped around her waist.
They
admired the cars, then asked Roger Hawk if they could take a picture of her
by Roger's 100 (the one on the cover of the last Healey magazine). The
husband then convinced his wife that since this was a "car picture" she
should be just in her bikini, so she removed the wrap. Amazing how fast
cameras came out of the other cars so we could help the husband take
pictures
of his wife in her bikini leaning against Roger's car.
Cheers
gary
From "George Castleberry" <leavcast at infomagic.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 13:45:44 -0700
Subject: Appraiser needed ASAP
I was the successful bidder for a BN1 in Toronto, Ontario and now need the
services of a pre-purchase appraiser to look at the car before it goes on
the truck.
Any help with an auto transport company that can handle customs will
appreciated also.
Thanks,
George
future '54 BN1
From "Scheuble, Fred J. ,HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 16:54:42 -0400
Subject: RE: Volvo Question - Not Healey, but help if you can
restore to 2 condition will not get more than $6000
-----Original Message-----
From: Healybj8@aol.com [mailto:Healybj8@aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2000 10:02 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Volvo Question - Not Healey, but help if you can
OK, its that time of the year again when everyone with a european sports car
wants to sell me their project.
Car one is a Volvo 1800 S. Straight car that has been sitting outside for a
few years. All there but needs work. Straight body, but there are a few
rust bubbles appearing beneath the paint. I know what the car is, but
nothing about what to look for. Engine is not seized, but it needs paint,
interior and a rear light lens. Guy wants $1100. Anyone know what these
are
worth? What kind of parts are available? What should I look out for?
Car two is an MGBGT. (Read those british rules.) That one is a no brainer.
Runs drives, but no brakes save that of the hand brake. $600!!!
Car three is a Sunbeam Alpine. Sat in a Garage for the last 15 years. One
owner. All there. $100!!! How can I say no.
Anyway, is the Volvo worth picking up?
TIA
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 16:57:09 -0700
Subject: 61 OR 62 bIG HEALEY
I HAVE BEEN A SEMI- ACTIVE HEALEY LIST MEMBER FOR A LITTLE WHILE. I
Would like to enquire if anyone on the list has or knows of a Big Healey
61 or 62 "basket case' with a clear title. It does not have to have an
engine or drive train but if all of the body parts are there it would
help. I'm located in New Jersey. I have a trailer and can pick up if
not too far. Please contact me off the list. I'm not a vendor, this
is part of my "sickness" Thanks, EDS
From costan0 at attglobal.net
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 14:43:10 -0700
Subject: temp guage problem
I just put my engine back in and after starting the car and warming it up
the temp gauge is stuck at 215. It stays there even after the car cools
down.
Is this a rebuild or is the needle stuck?
Jerry
From deemi at juno.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 18:05:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Flash or no Flash
Hi,
Just wanted to add my 2 pence.
I have an early 3000 HBT7 L / 330
it came out of storage since 1975, and has the original floorboards, and
shrouds etc. it had been painted red over the original black. The seats
still even slide!
It has about 62000 miles on the clock, and engine bay etc. look very
original except for a bit of over spray.
It has a 100/6 symbol on the grill, with a large 6 in a circle. mounted
upper US drivers side of the grill.
It does not look tampered with, but my 59 3000 with a BN4 number and disc
brakes was the same.
Bob Bowie in Maine
On Mon, 31 Jul 2000 14:47:23 EDT Editorgary@aol.com writes:
>
>
> In a message dated 7/31/00 2:06:19 AM, AHCUSA@excite.com writes:
>
> << Therefore it is no surprise that an early 3000 would not have a
> 3000 flash
> on the boot lid. In fact, it almost undoubtedly had a 100-6 badge
> fitted to
> the grill, but in the individual case if your car that 100-6 badge
> was
> probably replaced with the "correct" 3000 flash at some point in the
> past.
> >>
>
> And you base this conjecture on what?
>
> So far, we have gotten several reports of early production 3000s
> with no 3000
> flash on the boot lid, but none of these folks have reported that
> they had a
> 100/6 flash on the front grille. I've certainly never seen one. If
> anyone
> out there does have a very early 3000 that has a 100-6 flash on the
> grille,
> I'd be interested in hearing about it.
>
> Actually, with regard to the horn button, we have found a number
> (five or
> six) early production 3000s that had 100-six flashes (with the 100
> AND the 6)
> on their horn buttons, but the button had been painted over black to
> cover
> the entire button (so it looked like a Hundred button).
>
> So, my best advice for those interested in concours who have cars
> manufactured during the first three months or so of 3000 production
> that you
> just replace the emblems that you find on the car and then point the
>
> anomalies out to the concours judges at the beginning of your
> judging. It's
> not likely that you'll be deducted for these.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> Editor, British Car Magazine
DEEMI
P.O. Box 268
Orono, ME 04473
http://members.xoom.com/deemionl
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From RAntal243 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 18:15:08 EDT
Subject: Re: generator/alternator
Hi Michael,
I bought a set of Bilstien shocks and conversion kit from Putschkes
FAHRSPASS a few months ago and I believe he told me that he had other
products, one of them being a kit that allowed one to replace the guts of the
generator and thereby convert it into an alternator. Check it out and let me
know how it works if you get one.
Cheers, Rich Antal
From BGAHC at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 18:44:31 EDT
Subject: generator/alternator - Another question
A question for those with vast Healey Experience. I started thinking about
this at Conclave because I had a voltmeter in my tool kit and was surprised
that it was borrowed four separate times for generator related problems. It
wasn't uncommon to find people carrying extra generators in their trunk.
I do carry an extra set of generator brushes. How often will a malfunctioning
generator problem on the road be solved simply by replacing the brushes??
Some of time, most of the time or what is your best guess?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:53:23 +0800
Subject: Re: Volvo Question - Not Healey, but help if you can
Tim
If I could find one here in Perth for $1100 I'd be killed in the rush.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth Western Australia
BT7 in resto
Volvo122S rally 1964
----- Original Message -----
From: <Healybj8@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 10:02 AM
Subject: Volvo Question - Not Healey, but help if you can
>
> OK, its that time of the year again when everyone with a european sports
car
> wants to sell me their project.
>
> Car one is a Volvo 1800 S. Straight car that has been sitting outside for
a
> few years. All there but needs work. Straight body, but there are a few
> rust bubbles appearing beneath the paint. I know what the car is, but
> nothing about what to look for. Engine is not seized, but it needs paint,
> interior and a rear light lens. Guy wants $1100. Anyone know what these
are
> worth? What kind of parts are available? What should I look out for?
>
> Car two is an MGBGT. (Read those british rules.) That one is a no
brainer.
> Runs drives, but no brakes save that of the hand brake. $600!!!
>
> Car three is a Sunbeam Alpine. Sat in a Garage for the last 15 years.
One
> owner. All there. $100!!! How can I say no.
>
> Anyway, is the Volvo worth picking up?
>
> TIA
>
> Tim Wallace
> '67 BJ8
> Fuquay-Varina, NC
>
From "Rod Stewart" <stewartr at msu.edu>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 19:45:25 -0400
Subject: RE: Flash or no Flash
I recently acquired my A-H and know little of its history. It has a 100/6
horn button and a 3000 flash on the boot lid and grill.
Rod Stewart 1960 HBT7L/4235
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 20:34:55 -0400
Subject: Re: temp guage problem
Hi, Jerry --
With the car cooled down, tap on the face of the gauge with a finger.
Sometimes this will free a stuck gauge. If that doesn't do it, it may be
rebuild time.
Before you started the engine for the first time, did you see the gauge
needle sitting on the low end of the scale? You didn't overtemp the gauge
when removing the temp bulb from the engine did you?
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: costan0@attglobal.net <costan0@attglobal.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, July 31, 2000 5:55 PM
Subject: temp guage problem
>
>I just put my engine back in and after starting the car and warming it up
>the temp gauge is stuck at 215. It stays there even after the car cools
>down.
>
>Is this a rebuild or is the needle stuck?
>
>Jerry
>
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 19:44:06 -0500
Subject: Skip Saunders?
Skip: If you see this, please e-mail me. I finally dug out the drivers
side seat.
Don
BN7
From JustBrits at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 20:37:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Appraiser needed ASAP
In a message dated 07/31/2000 3:53:43 PM Central Daylight Time,
leavcast@infomagic.com writes:
<<
I was the successful bidder for a BN1 in Toronto, Ontario and now need the
services of a pre-purchase appraiser to look at the car before it goes on
the truck.
Any help with an auto transport company that can handle customs will
appreciated also.
>>
George:
You ARE kidding, RIGHT?? You have BOUGHT the car and now need a
"pre-purchase" appraiser?????????????
Passport Transportation. http://www.passporttransport.com/
Their 800 # should be there.
er, Congrats, I think?!?!?
Cheers.........
Ed
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 20:57:40 EDT
Subject: Re: RE: Bikini-clad beauties
In a message dated 7/31/00 2:09:42 PM, fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com writes:
<< ok, I'LL BITE, LETS SEE THE PICTURES! >>
if the prints look good (or at least damaging to Roger Hawk's reputation as a
clean-living guy whose Healey would never be a party to such a thing) does
anyone have a personal Healey web site where i could put them up? My wife
and Chief Administrative Officer doesn't think I should put them up on the
magazine's web site.
Cheers
Gary
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 20:57:04 -0400
Subject: Non overdrive rear ends on Ebay
Folks,
Just noticed 2 guys selling non-overdrive rear ends on Ebay. One
starts
at $400, and the other at $500. I have nothing to do with either seller,
just passing info...
Mike B
59 BT7
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=397389464
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=397102845
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:02:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Appraiser needed ASAP
In a message dated 7/31/00 2:14:16 PM, leavcast@infomagic.com writes:
<<
Any help with an auto transport company that can handle customs will
appreciated also. >>
Don't know about appraisers in Canada, but I strongly recommend Cosdell in
San Francisco for your customs and shipping. Don't have their current number,
but information should. They take care of all paperwork and can also arrange
the shipping. Ask for Martin Button there and tell him I suggested them.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From BGAHC at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:07:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Bikini-clad beauties
I'll do it!!!
Jim Werner
In a message dated 7/31/00 9:04:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
> If the prints look good (or at least damaging to Roger Hawk's reputation as
> a
> clean-living guy whose Healey would never be a party to such a thing) does
> anyone have a personal Healey web site where I could put them up? My wife
> and Chief Administrative Officer doesn't think I should put them up on the
> magazine's web site
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:08:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Flash or no Flash
In a message dated 7/31/00 3:13:48 PM, deemi@juno.com writes:
<< It has a 100/6 symbol on the grill, with a large 6 in a circle. mounted
upper US drivers side of the grill.
It does not look tampered with, but my 59 3000 with a BN4 number and disc
brakes was the same. >>
thanks for the note -- the BT7 is within the first 250, so might have had the
100 flash.
However, a "BN4 3000" is an oxymoron.
Cheers
gary
From JustBrits at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:16:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Bikini-clad beauties
Free for the asking, Gary. W or W/O attributed to.....
Cheers..........
Hopefully Ed
PS: Jim already has my "link"/
In a message dated 07/31/2000 8:09:09 PM Central Daylight Time, BGAHC@aol.com
writes:
<< Subj: Re: Bikini-clad beauties
Date: 07/31/2000 8:09:09 PM Central Daylight Time
From: BGAHC@aol.com
Sender: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Reply-to: BGAHC@aol.com
To: Editorgary@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net
I'll do it!!!
Jim Werner
In a message dated 7/31/00 9:04:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
> If the prints look good (or at least damaging to Roger Hawk's reputation
as
> a
> clean-living guy whose Healey would never be a party to such a thing)
does
> anyone have a personal Healey web site where I could put them up? My
wife
> and Chief Administrative Officer doesn't think I should put them up on
the
> magazine's web site
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
>>
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 19:19:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Bikini-clad beauties
Great, good man Jim !!!!
Ed
Saskatoon
BGAHC@aol.com wrote:
>
> I'll do it!!!
>
> Jim Werner
>
> In a message dated 7/31/00 9:04:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> Editorgary@aol.com writes:
>
> > If the prints look good (or at least damaging to Roger Hawk's reputation as
> > a
> > clean-living guy whose Healey would never be a party to such a thing) does
> > anyone have a personal Healey web site where I could put them up? My wife
> > and Chief Administrative Officer doesn't think I should put them up on the
> > magazine's web site
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> 1957 BN4 Rally Car
> 1966 BJ8
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 18:31:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Bikini-clad beauties
Once more it's Jim to the rescue.
Ron
"M.E. & E.A. Driver" wrote:
> Great, good man Jim !!!!
>
> Ed
> Saskatoon
>
> BGAHC@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > I'll do it!!!
> >
> > Jim Werner
> >
> > In a message dated 7/31/00 9:04:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> > Editorgary@aol.com writes:
> >
> > > If the prints look good (or at least damaging to Roger Hawk's reputation
>as
> > > a
> > > clean-living guy whose Healey would never be a party to such a thing)
>does
> > > anyone have a personal Healey web site where I could put them up? My
>wife
> > > and Chief Administrative Officer doesn't think I should put them up on
>the
> > > magazine's web site
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jim Werner
> > Louisville, KY
> > 1957 BN4 Rally Car
> > 1966 BJ8
From dickb at cheerful.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:38:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: generator/alternator - Another question
Jim
I've had two generator failures in my "vast" experience and both times it was
the bearings. When that happens you should be able to limp into an electrical
repair shop and have yours rebuilt - even if you have to charge your battery to
do so (when the light goes on and you're going road speed)
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> A question for those with vast Healey Experience. I started thinking about
> this at Conclave because I had a voltmeter in my tool kit and was surprised
> that it was borrowed four separate times for generator related problems. It
> wasn't uncommon to find people carrying extra generators in their trunk.
>
> I do carry an extra set of generator brushes. How often will a malfunctioning
> generator problem on the road be solved simply by replacing the brushes??
> Some of time, most of the time or what is your best guess?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> 1957 BN4 Rally Car
> 1966 BJ8
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From RobertH148 at aol.com
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:58:31 EDT
Subject: Re: generator/alternator
Udo Putzke of our local club has been working on this. So far the cost has
been prohibitive. You might try contacting him at: putzkes@worldnet.att.net
Bob Humphreys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 22:07:13 -0400
Subject: Re: generator/alternator - Another question
I can add one more data point, Jim. My only problem with the generator was
also bearing failure, but it was likely my own fault. I had just replaced
the fan belt and (in hindsight) probably got it too tight. Unfortunately
for me, the bearings began to fail (slight vibration that led me to the
bronze powder behind the generator blower) while I was 350 miles from home
and 50 miles from nowhere. By the time I got to a place that could rebuild
it, it was really howling -- but the red light never came on.
The rebuilt generator is still going strong after 15 years and 38,000 miles,
but now I keep the belt just tight enough not to slip..
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: dickb@cheerful.com <dickb@cheerful.com>
To: BGAHC@aol.com <BGAHC@aol.com>; austin healey list
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, July 31, 2000 9:47 PM
Subject: Re: generator/alternator - Another question
>
>Jim
>
>I've had two generator failures in my "vast" experience and both times it
was the bearings. When that happens you should be able to limp into an
electrical repair shop and have yours rebuilt - even if you have to charge
your battery to do so (when the light goes on and you're going road speed)
>
>DickB
>
> ---- you wrote:
>>
>> A question for those with vast Healey Experience. I started thinking
about
>> this at Conclave because I had a voltmeter in my tool kit and was
surprised
>> that it was borrowed four separate times for generator related problems.
It
>> wasn't uncommon to find people carrying extra generators in their trunk.
>>
>> I do carry an extra set of generator brushes. How often will a
malfunctioning
>> generator problem on the road be solved simply by replacing the brushes??
>> Some of time, most of the time or what is your best guess?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Jim Werner
>> Louisville, KY
>> 1957 BN4 Rally Car
>> 1966 BJ8
>>
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 19:16:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Flash or no flash
My BT7L6995 built January 15-18, 1960 has the 3000 flash on the boot
lid. It was there when I bought it February 1968.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 14:37:57 -0600
Subject: Re: generator/alternator - Another question
Carry a bearing and an end frame with bushing along with those brushes and
you won't ever be in trouble.
----- Original Message -----
From: <BGAHC@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 4:44 PM
Subject: generator/alternator - Another question
>
> A question for those with vast Healey Experience. I started thinking about
> this at Conclave because I had a voltmeter in my tool kit and was
surprised
> that it was borrowed four separate times for generator related problems.
It
> wasn't uncommon to find people carrying extra generators in their trunk.
>
> I do carry an extra set of generator brushes. How often will a
malfunctioning
> generator problem on the road be solved simply by replacing the brushes??
> Some of time, most of the time or what is your best guess?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> 1957 BN4 Rally Car
> 1966 BJ8
>
From "Ron Yates" <dipstickdigest at ctaz.com>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 20:10:10 -0700
Subject: Re: RE: Bikini-clad beauties
Hey! You Betcha. Send them on down!
As long as the photos have such redeeming features as one or more
Healeys in the foreground/background, and/or the pieces-parts of the car are
easily recognizable as Healey or Healey origin, or the colors of the car are
representative of colors normally seen on Healeys, or the wire wheels. . . .
. The website of the world's, and Arizona's, smallest Austin-Healey club
(Arizona Social Society of Healey Owners and Latent Entrepreneurs) would
happily host the photos.
You can presently see some interesting historic Healey photos on our
photo page. Ina Balchowsky (Max's wife) wasn't wearing a bikini, for the
occasion, but there were two Healeys quite visible. She and Max are standing
beside a recently (1956) converted 100 to Chevy power . . .very interesting.
Gordy Glyers 100S (1957) is a knock-out and there's also a photo of the
Hunter twin-cam(1957).
Ron Yates, prez, ceo, editor (Dipstick Digest)
http://www.ctaz.com/~dipstickdigest/index.html
From "Allen Adams" <aadamsjr at earthlink.net>
From: "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:06:08 -0700
Subject: 3000 Flash
Al Adams
|