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Jack, what kind of driver do you use?
I use a threaded rod and pull the bearings in. To keep the bearings straight, I
had a cylinder of some 1" long, made on a lathe, with the outer diameter a bit
smaller than the outer diameter of the bearing. Over a lenght of some 3mm the
diameter of this cylinder is a bit smaller, the same as the inner diameter of
the bearings, in order to slide it into the bearing, keeping the bearing
straight. When the bearing was not aligned completely right, I bodged it
sometimes by making the end of the securing bolt a little smaller :-).
This driving tool is working great, but the core plug at the rear of the engine
block has to be removed.
Marcel
Van: "fot" <fot@autox.team.net>
Aan: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall@gmail.com>
Cc: "fot" <fot@autox.team.net>
Verzonden: Dinsdag 9 februari 2021 17:49:08
Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Cam Bearings - TR-2 to 4A
I've never seen any cam bearings that were solid rings. The Vandervell bearings
may look like a complete ring, unless you look real closely and see the clench
design. I always installed my own cam bearings. I made my own tool years ago.
When installing non-Vandervell bearings, with a straight cut, I used to put a
hose clamp around the bearing before I started driving it into the block. This
kept the ends of the bearing aligned. As I drove the bearing into the block, it
pushed out of the hose clamp. Obviously, before driving the bearing in, you
needed to make sure the bearing was properly aligned and the oil holes and the
securing bolt holes were properly lined up with the block. Not a difficult job
if you have the right tools (driver, hose clamp and a flashlight), and have
done it a few times.
You can run into a problem if the holes in the bearing are not properly lined
up with the holes where the cam bearing securing bolts screw into the block.
When you screw the securing bolts in, they may catch part of the bearing,
pushing it in. If this happens, the cam won't go in and if you force it you may
score the cam. If this happens, you should get a new bearing, and start over. I
speak from experience!
Jack
On Tuesday, February 9, 2021, 10:46:43 AM EST, J.C. Hassall
<jhassall@gmail.com> wrote:
Hey Jack,
What a great story!
IFF I recall correctly, when I rebuilt my TR4 last time, the cam bearings were
complete rings. The machine shop had a rough time aligning the bearing holes
with the oiler holes in the block.
I'm just curious.
tnx
--
jim W4BEA
On Tue, Feb 9, 2021 at 10:20 AM Jack Wheeler via Fot < [
mailto:fot@autox.team.net | fot@autox.team.net ] > wrote:
I worked for a large diesel engine manufacturer and Vandervell was a major
bearing supplier to us. I was working on a new product introduction team and
one day the Vandervell rep was in visiting our purchasing manager. The
purchasing manager introduced me to the rep, and during the course of our
discussion I shared with him the fact that I was racing a TR-4 at the time. I
had recently experienced problems getting Vandervell cam bearings and asked him
about the status of bearing supply for the TR engine. He said he would look
into it.
A few weeks later, our purchasing manager walked into my office with a big box
and said, "this is for you". He told me that the Vandervell rep had gone back
to the UK and had one of his materials managers gather all of the TR-2/4 cam
bearings from all of their major warehouses in the UK, and sent them to me.
There were over 100 bearings. Since they were all the wide bearings, I had
about a third of them cut down to the width of the narrow bearing. To make sure
the oil holes lined up with the holes in the block, the machine shop had to cut
an equal amount off each side of the bearing to get the appropriate width.
Where is all this going? Well, I changed the cam bearings (because I had them)
every time I rebuilt an engine, which was about every 4 races. For whatever
reason, I kept a number of the used bearings with 4 race weekends on them (or
less). I have a total of 17 wide bearings, plus one new wide AE bearing, and 9
narrow bearings, or about 9 sets. I don't know if anyone is interested in
running used bearings in your race engines, but if you are, I am offering them
to anyone on the list for the price of the shipping cost. The wear in these
bearings is visible (see pictures), but barely perceptible when you run your
finger over the areas of wear. About what you would expect after 3 or 4 pace
weekends.
What is the benefit of Vandervell cam bearings? The AE or all the other
bearings that are on the market today (to my knowledge) have a straight split
in the bearing, which can result in the ends of the bearing becoming
misaligned. The Vandervell bearing has a design that looks like a jigsaw puzzle
piece, where the ends of the bearing are clenched together, preventing
misalignment. In the third picture attached I tried to get a good shot of this
feature.
If anyone is interested in one or more sets of these bearings, let me know how
many you want. Thanks.
Jack
_______________________________________________
[ mailto:fot@autox.team.net | fot@autox.team.net ]
[ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ]
Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [
http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage |
http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
--
jim W4BEA
The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing
to work and give to those who would not.
Thomas Jefferson
I sometimes feel bad for the smart people - being simple-minded and easily
entertained is totally the way to go! ;-)
J. Stoll
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-seri=
f; font-size: 10pt; color: #000000"><div>Jack, what kind of driver do you u=
se? </div><div>I use a threaded rod and pull the bearings in. To keep =
the bearings straight, I had a cylinder of some 1" long, made on a lathe, w=
ith the outer diameter a bit smaller than the outer diameter of the bearing=
. Over a lenght of some 3mm the diameter of this cylinder is a bit smaller,=
the same as the inner diameter of the bearings, in order to slide it into =
the bearing, keeping the bearing straight. When the bearing was not a=
ligned completely right, I bodged it sometimes by making the end of the sec=
uring bolt a little smaller :-). </div><div>This driving tool is worki=
ng great, but the core plug at the rear of the engine block has to be remov=
ed.</div><div>Marcel</div><div><br></div><hr id=3D"zwchr" data-marker=3D"__=
DIVIDER__"><div data-marker=3D"__HEADERS__"><b>Van: </b>"fot" <fot@autox=
.team.net><br><b>Aan: </b>"J.C. Hassall" <jhassall@gmail.com><br><=
b>Cc: </b>"fot" <fot@autox.team.net><br><b>Verzonden: </b>Dinsdag 9 f=
ebruari 2021 17:49:08<br><b>Onderwerp: </b>Re: [Fot] Cam Bearings - TR-2 to=
4A<br></div><div><br></div><div data-marker=3D"__QUOTED_TEXT__"><div class=
=3D"ydp4ffd1c3dyahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"font-family:'helvetica neue' , 'h=
elvetica' , 'arial' , sans-serif;font-size:13px">
<div dir=3D"ltr">I've never seen any cam bearings that were solid r=
ings. The Vandervell bearings may look like a complete ring, unless y=
ou look real closely and see the clench design. I always installed my=
own cam bearings. I made my own tool years ago. When installin=
g non-Vandervell bearings, with a straight cut, I used to put a hose clamp =
around the bearing before I started driving it into the block. This k=
ept the ends of the bearing aligned. As I drove the bearing into the =
block, it pushed out of the hose clamp. Obviously, before driving the=
bearing in, you needed to make sure the bearing was properly aligned and t=
he oil holes and the securing bolt holes were properly lined up with the bl=
ock. Not a difficult job if you have the right tools (driver, hose cl=
amp and a flashlight), and have done it a few times.<br></div><div dir=3D"l=
tr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">You can run into a problem if the holes in t=
he bearing are not properly lined up with the holes where the cam bearing s=
ecuring bolts screw into the block. When you screw the securing bolts=
in, they may catch part of the bearing, pushing it in. If this happe=
ns, the cam won't go in and if you force it you may score the cam. If=
this happens, you should get a new bearing, and start over. I speak =
from experience!</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Jack<br><=
/div><br>
=20
</div><div id=3D"ydp9853ccfcyahoo_quoted_3083776813" class=3D"ydp98=
53ccfcyahoo_quoted">
<div style=3D"font-family:'helvetica neue' , 'helvetica' , 'ari=
al' , sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a">
=20
<div>
On Tuesday, February 9, 2021, 10:46:43 AM EST, J.C. Has=
sall <jhassall@gmail.com> wrote:
</div>
<br>
<br>
<div><div id=3D"ydp9853ccfcyiv0924720591"><div><div dir=3D"=
ltr">Hey Jack,<div>What a great story! </div><div>IFF I recall c=
orrectly, when I rebuilt my TR4 last time, the cam bearings were complete r=
ings. The machine shop had a rough time aligning the bearing holes wi=
th the oiler holes in the block. </div><div><br clear=3D"none"><=
/div><div>I'm just curious.</div><div><br clear=3D"none"></div><div>tnx</di=
v><div>--<br clear=3D"none"></div><div>jim W4BEA</div></div><br clear=
=3D"none"><div class=3D"ydp9853ccfcyiv0924720591gmail_quote"><div class=3D"=
ydp9853ccfcyiv0924720591yqt7583245858" id=3D"ydp9853ccfcyiv0924720591yqt512=
28"><div class=3D"ydp9853ccfcyiv0924720591gmail_attr" dir=3D"ltr">On Tue, F=
eb 9, 2021 at 10:20 AM Jack Wheeler via Fot <<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"m=
ailto:fot@autox.team.net" rel=3D"nofollow nofollow noopener noreferrer" tar=
get=3D"_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br clear=3D"none"></div><b=
lockquote class=3D"ydp9853ccfcyiv0924720591gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px=
0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb( 204 , 204 , 204 );padding-left:1e=
x"><div><div style=3D"font-family:'helvetica' , 'arial' , sans-serif;font-s=
ize:13px"><div dir=3D"ltr">I worked for a large diesel engine manufacturer =
and Vandervell was a major bearing supplier to us. I was working on a=
new product introduction team and one day the Vandervell rep was in visiti=
ng our purchasing manager. The purchasing manager introduced me to th=
e rep, and during the course of our discussion I shared with him the fact t=
hat I was racing a TR-4 at the time. I had recently experienced probl=
ems getting Vandervell cam bearings and asked him about the status of beari=
ng supply for the TR engine. He said he would look into it.</div><div=
dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=3D"none"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">A few weeks later, o=
ur purchasing manager walked into my office with a big box and said, "this =
is for you". He told me that the Vandervell rep had gone back to the =
UK and had one of his materials managers gather all of the TR-2/4 cam beari=
ngs from all of their major warehouses in the UK, and sent them to me. =
; There were over 100 bearings. Since they were all the wide bearings=
, I had about a third of them cut down to the width of the narrow bearing.&=
nbsp; To make sure the oil holes lined up with the holes in the block, the =
machine shop had to cut an equal amount off each side of the bearing to get=
the appropriate width.<br clear=3D"none"></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=
=3D"none"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Where is all this going? Well, I cha=
nged the cam bearings (because I had them) every time I rebuilt an engine, =
which was about every 4 races. For whatever reason, I kept a number o=
f the used bearings with 4 race weekends on them (or less). I have a =
total of 17 wide bearings, plus one new wide AE bearing, and 9 narrow beari=
ngs, or about 9 sets. I don't know if anyone is interested in running=
used bearings in your race engines, but if you are, I am offering them to =
anyone on the list for the price of the shipping cost. The wear in th=
ese bearings is visible (see pictures), but barely perceptible when you run=
your finger over the areas of wear. About what you would expect afte=
r 3 or 4 pace weekends.<br clear=3D"none"></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=
=3D"none"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">What is the benefit of Vandervell cam bear=
ings? The AE or all the other bearings that are on the market today (=
to my knowledge) have a straight split in the bearing, which can result in =
the ends of the bearing becoming misaligned. The Vandervell bearing h=
as a design that looks like a jigsaw puzzle piece, where the ends of the be=
aring are clenched together, preventing misalignment. In the third pi=
cture attached I tried to get a good shot of this feature.</div><div dir=3D=
"ltr"><br clear=3D"none"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">If anyone is interested in =
one or more sets of these bearings, let me know how many you want. Th=
anks.</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=3D"none"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Jack<=
br clear=3D"none"></div></div></div>_______________________________________=
________<br clear=3D"none">
<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; rel=3D"nofollow nofoll=
ow noopener noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a><br clear=
=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
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ow noopener noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.fot-racing.com</a><br =
clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
ofollow nofollow noopener noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net=
/donate.html</a><br clear=3D"none">
Archive: <a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive"; rel=3D"no=
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subscribe/Manage" rel=3D"nofollow nofollow noopener noreferrer" target=3D"_=
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<br clear=3D"none">
</blockquote></div></div><br clear=3D"all"><div><br clear=3D"none"></div>--=
<br clear=3D"none"><div class=3D"ydp9853ccfcyiv0924720591gmail_signature" =
dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><d=
iv><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div><span style=3D"color:rgb( 0 , 0 , 0 );font-fa=
mily:'arial' , 'helvetica' , sans-serif;background-color:rgb( 250 , 250 , 2=
51 )">jim W4BEA</span></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span style=3D"color:rgb=
( 0 , 0 , 0 );font-family:'arial' , 'helvetica' , sans-serif;background-col=
or:rgb( 250 , 250 , 251 )"><br clear=3D"none"></span></div><div dir=3D"ltr"=
><span style=3D"color:rgb( 0 , 0 , 0 );font-family:'arial' , 'helvetica' , =
sans-serif;background-color:rgb( 250 , 250 , 251 )">The democracy will ceas=
e to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give t=
o those who would not.</span><br style=3D"color:rgb( 0 , 0 , 0 );font-famil=
y:'arial' , 'helvetica' , sans-serif;background-color:rgb( 250 , 250 , 251 =
)" clear=3D"none"><span style=3D"color:rgb( 0 , 0 , 0 );font-family:'arial'=
, 'helvetica' , sans-serif;background-color:rgb( 250 , 250 , 251 )">Thomas=
Jefferson</span><br clear=3D"none"></div></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span styl=
e=3D"color:rgb( 0 , 0 , 0 );font-family:'arial' , 'helvetica' , sans-serif;=
background-color:rgb( 250 , 250 , 251 )"><br clear=3D"none"></span></div><d=
iv dir=3D"ltr"><div>I sometimes feel bad for the smart people - being simpl=
e-minded and easily entertained is totally the way to go! ;-)</div><div>J. =
Stoll</div><div><br clear=3D"none"></div></div></div></div></div></div></di=
v></div></div></div>
</div></div></div>
</div>
</div><br>_______________________________________________<br>fot@au=
tox.team.net<br><br>http://www.fot-racing.com<br><br>Donate: http://www.tea=
m.net/donate.html<br>Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team=
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ions/fot/van.mulders.marcel@telenet.be<br></div></div></body></html>
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Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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