Hi Duncan, John and all,I sent the proper information to Newmans in June and
again this week but haven't had any response.I was wrong when I posted the lift
figure, on Monday. When I didn't get a response from Newman in June with
accurate timing events I through my notes in a box and misread them the other
night, the lift was actually .015" less than specified in lift at cam which
would be .022" less lift at the valve.The total lift, rise figure at TDC, and
the figure at which max rise should occur did not match what their website
specified. The two sentence response from them was like a politician saying
"trust me", it only stated"The best way to set the camshaft is that you have
maximum valve lift on theinlet 110? after top dead centre" with no other
information to second verify eventsIn the past when we've ever had a figure on
a timing card that didn't match our cam grinder would get back and be able to
say, check timing events at this lift and verify by checking lobe centers and
he would give you ways to verify that all was correct. His cams always worked
great.I have three different types of cams, I'm going to plot and graph them
later in the week but will just use a camshaft from now on from a source I
trust.thanks for you responsesPat Mannion, Santa Cruz
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Duncan Charlton <duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>
To: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Cc: patrickmannion1 at netzero.com
Subject: Re: [Fot] Re TR4 camshafts
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2017 06:50:56 -0500
Hi Patrick,
You didn’t say whether you determined how many degrees of advance/retard
you’re putting in by setting max lift at 110˚ ATDC. Confirming that
figure ought to give you some confidence that what they’re telling you is
in the ballpark. 2 to 4 degrees advance seems appropriate for a street engine.
Since you've been in the business for a while (I’ve heard your name in
Morgan circles for many years) I assume you already have the tools and
knowledge to do this, so I won’t go into a long-winded description of the
process, but for those reading this who haven’t done this before: put a
degree wheel on the crank, zero it at true TDC and measure lift at the cam or
at the valve using a dial indicator, starting a few degrees before max lift and
ending a few degrees after max lift to be sure you’ve found mean maximum
lift. Do this for both intake and exhaust and calculate the midpoint between
those two mean maximum lift points. That gives you the cam's
“zero” point. Decide whether to advance or retard a few degrees
from zero. Advancing moves torque lower down on the rpm scale (but also
decreases intake valve to piston clearance). I find I have to plot this on
paper so I can make sense of it and to make sure I don’t move the the
wrong direction in altering the valve timing. Newman overstated lift by 34%.
Wow. DuncanOn Oct 23, 2017, at 2:48 PM, John Styduhar via Fot <fot at
autox.team.net> wrote:​Follow the instructions for setting the cam and
you will be fine. An adjustable cam sprocket will make the job easier. On
Mon, Oct 23, 2017 at 11:54 AM, riverside--- via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
wrote:Yikes! I have always had great success with Dema's cams. I hope his
shop survived the fires. art de armond -----Original Message----- From:
patrickmannion1--- via Fot Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2017 5:11 PM To: fot at
autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Re TR4 camshafts Hello all, I have always nearly
always built Triumph TR4 engines with cams from Dema Elgin Superlobes in Santa
Rosa. Occasionally I had installed other cams supplied by customers that had a
valid timing card supplied. I decided with the English pound being low vs the
Dollar I would try the PH1 Cam from Newman Cams in England. I had heard good
things about their PH1 cam as being a great street cam. When installing the
cam. Information on there website stated peak cam lift was .295" (it is only
.220") resulting in a lift at the valve being .120" less than stated. Starting
off with" incorrect lift figure all valve event figures on the website are
wrong. After several emails I got a two sentence email saying ,set Intake for
max lift at 110 degrees ATDC and the cam will work, After doing lots of engine
modifications I would like a more scientific answer than the cam will work. Has
anyone used this cam or a Newman cam before, or found that the information
supplied by Newman was incorrect. I hate to eat the cost of the camshafts I
bought or incur the cost of sending them back to England, but I would have no
confidence in using a camshaft without having a correct timing card for the
camshaft. - thanks Pat Mannion Santa Cruz California
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