Bill??? I rebuilt three steering boxes this way for BN-1/BN-2s. The pinion
shaft has two bearing diameters and the aluminum case is the female bearing for
both diameters. The top of the case is bored to the larger diameter and the
lower portion is the smaller diameter. There is side load on the shaft so the
case tends to wear egg shaped. A lot of the slop in your steering box is wear
in the case. Drop your shaft into the case and see if there is any play. I am
going to describe the process in general terms because I did this some time ago
and don't remember exact dimensions but it was easy to figure out what was
needed. I have access to a milling machine but it is a fairly simple machine
shop job so you should be able to find a shop near you who can do the work.??
In the McMaster Carr catalog they have bronze bushings. They come in various
inside diameters and wall thickness and outside diameters. Pick two that fit
the two inside diameters needed to fit the shaft, then select a wall thickness
that will give you a constant outside diameter. Next comes the machine work. I
can't find a picture of this, sorry. The case is put on the mill using the top
machined surface as datum ( Top down, snout up ) and the shaft center is
indicated. Then the case is bored to an interference fit to the OD of the
bronze bushings. While you have this setup make the bore for the lip seal about
3/16th deeper so the lip seal rides on a clean part of the shaft and you can
use a two lip seal stack. Then the bushings are pressed in and viola your case
is better than when it left the factory. I think you can still get new pin
followers and the pin to worm clearance is adjustable so you can split the
difference between loose in the center and tight on full lock.?? This probably
sounds more complicated than it really is. A good machinist will totally get
it. You can message me for a phone number if you or your machinist want to
talk.
Hope this is useful information.RegardsRay Juncal
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