Here are a few random thoughts on your problem.
I am not sure where #6 is. Is the exhaust valve just opening & intake valve
just closing = beginning the exhaust stroke or is the intake valve just opening
& the exhaust valve just closing = intake stroke. Personally, I would remove
the #1 plug & verify that when both valves are closed (end of compression &
beginning of power stroke) that the rotor is lined up with the #1 terminal in
the cap & that the timing mark indicates TDC.
What type of plug wires are you using? If carbon core, they are not suitable
for use with the original style dist. cap. which could explain why you have a
spark at one plug & not in at another plug. The small pointed screws that
retain the wires in the cap do not make reliable contact in carbon core wires.
Use copper core wires.
I think you indicated that you are using points. Make sure the points spring &
ground wire are correctly installed with the correct spacers/insulators. See a
shop manual for details.
Gary Hodson
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Jun 7, 2017 6:15 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Some spark
I'll have more time to go over this tonight...wire by wire.
The problem I posted on Sunday, was that after spending some time adjusting the
static timing (had the distributor out) I couldn't start the car, and seemed to
have no spark at the plugs.
I went to some trouble setting up the distributor in the orientation that seems
to be the most common, with the wires in the cap to match. There is spark at
the points, and a healthy spark from the coil right out to the carbon brush.
After I put it all back together again, it wouldn't start. I was running out of
time, but I checked two wires- no spark at 6, but a spark at 3.
I'll get back to this tonight, but when I try to start the car, I would swear
that I had the timing out by 180 degrees...only I've checked and re-checked
that the valves of number 6 are just closing and opening when I have the timing
marks lined up, and the rotor is at number one...and there's no loud bang that
you usually get when it's 180 out.
The obvious culprit now is the cap, but it's odd to have absolutely no sign of
firing at all when I attempt to start the car, I mean to go from working fine
to absolute failure.
Wish me luck.
Stephen, BJ8
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