Update: drained the oil through cheeescloth -- no debris from oil sump.
Kas: oil goes from pump to filter to cooler to galleys -- no return to
filter, no bypass. Feel it must work or would have blown up.
Oil temp gauge is analog (not electric).
Beginning to think cause was not related to friction in the engine or I
would have seen something from the sump or filter.
Plan to run the car with new oil at about 3000 rpm for half hour or so and
note oil temp. Then will use the laser temp checker to see what it is in
the sump, at the filter and at entry to engine.
All ideas on problem are welcome.
Sure hope I do not have to pull and rebuild the engine -- and will be
siorry I missed a great race weekend in Seattle.
On Wed, May 24, 2017 at 6:26 AM, Paul Ricco via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
wrote:
> If you are running an electric gauge it is also worth checking the
> ground. Many electric gauges will read high if they do not have good
> ground. We learned that by experience with our gauges.
>
> Paul
>
>
> On May 24, 2017, at 6:40 AM, Duncan Charlton via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
> Are you convinced the gauge is accurate?
>
> Duncan Charlton
> 1121 Lower Elgin Rd
> Elgin, Texas 78621
> USA
>
>
>
> On May 23, 2017, at 8:12 PM, Jerry Van Vlack via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
> What was the water temperature? What was the ambient temperature?
>
> *From:* Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley via Fot
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 23, 2017 7:38 PM
> *To:* Friends
> *Subject:* [Fot] Hot oil
>
> Any chance running too advanced timing would lead to 250 fegree oil
> temperature in 15 minutes pf lapping?
> Or have I got bearing or thrust waher problems.
> Car ran great. Took 3 seconds off my best lap time at Pacific raceways.
> Turned a 1:39:9! That was in test and tune. Oil temp kept me from racing.
> Opening oil filter no
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