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Re: [Fot] IRS Diff Cover

To: <charly@mitchelplumbing.com>, <van.mulders.marcel@telenet.be>, <malaboge@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] IRS Diff Cover
From: "Steve Yott" <tr4@wi.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2016 00:44:20 -0500
Cc: fot@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: fot@autox.team.net
References: <23706.1471148861@mitchelplumbing.com>
Thread-index: AQIdOmyV9dKxe3bjJ5RvUcDZyPISJp+xZrKQ
Charley,
This operation can take a press of up to 40 tons and listen for the "BANG"
when it goes....  I normally pop them in my 20 ton press by using a thread
protector I made on the lathe and have the flange completely encircled with
press plates.  When you have the press fully up to pressure take a large
brass punch and  hammer.  Position the punch on the flange and give it a
good whack.  The shock created should start a pressure ripple in the flange
and when sufficient it will let go with a bang.  Literally sounds like a
shotgun going off.

Works all the time for me!

Steve Yott

-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charly
Sent: Saturday, August 13, 2016 11:28 PM
To: van.mulders.marcel@telenet.be; malaboge@aol.com
Cc: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] IRS Diff Cover

This a little off this subjecy, but not much. I'm rebuilding a TR6 diff and
need y to put new bearings in the stub axel. What is the best way to pull
the flange off? I've tried my press, with no success and I'm concerned about
ruining the threads.

Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44

On Sat 13/08/16  6:41 PM , malaboge@aol.com sent:
> I just had to tear this diff down due to a broken output axle flange.
> It broke at the typical stress point at the keyway when the clutch 
> started acting up (grabbing) and that put too much instant torque thru 
> everything...yeah the hip bone connected to the ... The diff gears and 
> bearings were all in great shape,  the pattern looked good and the 
> clearances were spot on. Even the Detroit locker looked good. So, who 
> has installed a cooler on their diff, and how did you route it? The 
> pickup part should be pretty simple, but I don't know whether to just 
> reintroduce the oil back into the diff at some recess, or should it be 
> aimed on the ring or pinion gears directly? I can see plus and minus 
> aspects to each style of setup.
> Anyone have good empirical evidence for either?
> What sort of pump did you use?
> What sort of cooler did you use...radiator style matrix or just  a 
> tube with fins attached (like a power steering cooler)?
> 
> Never considered cool myself...
> Nick in Nor Cal
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Marcel Van Mulders
> To: malaboge
> Cc: fot
> Sent: Fri, Aug 12, 2016 12:41 am
> Subject: RE: [Fot] IRS Diff Cover
> Some years ago, I tried a new 4.33 pinion and  crownwheel : after a 
> road test, the differential housing was already  very very hot. No way 
> to race with that. It was installed  correctly and running 
> quiet.Returning to the original 4.1 pinion and  crownwheel in the same 
> casing and the same LSD solved this problem. The  temperature of the 
> diff is a result of how much heat is generated and how much  heat is 
> transferred to the air. Probably an overheating diff can also be 
> caused by too much heat that is generated? LSD of course, but also the 
> heat  generated by the pinion and crownwheel because of some fault of 
> the parts  or the installation.  Marcel
> -------------------------
> VAN: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net]  NAMENS malaboge@aol.com
> VERZONDEN: woensdag 10 augustus 2016  05:37
> AAN: pvucinic@netspace.net.au;  fot@autox.team.net
> ONDERWERP: Re: [Fot] IRS Diff  Cover
> 
> Nope,  no chance of the exhaust...or anything else that might be hot 
> back there. The  heat looked like it came from the diff cover out to 
> the poly bush. The bush was  melted the most on the back edge where 
> the cover had the biggest mass next to  the bushing.
> And this is with a Detroit locker, no heat building clutches  inside!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Peter Vucinic
> To: malaboge
> Sent: Tue, Aug 9, 2016 5:45 am
> Subject: Re: [Fot]  IRS Diff Cover
> 
> Wow! Melted poly mounts! Never seen that before! Sure it's not the 
> exhaust  systems proximity to the differential casing that's adding to 
> the  equation?
> 
> Regards Peter Vucinic
> On 9 Aug 2016, at 11:55 AM, malaboge@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Oh  I'm so jealous of that finned alum diff cover!
> BUT, a more practical  question...do you think the most oil capacity, 
> or directed internal oil  dispersion is more important. (Already using 
> RedLine heavy shock proof  oil).
> Some history...
> The Duke of Oil, our 4A has melted a set of the  poly mounts (see a 
> previous pic someone else submitted...same deal here)  in  a normal 
> sprint race. So, diggin thru the pile-o-parts I find I have  an early 
> one piece TR6(?) diff cover that is pretty much a square reservoir in 
> the back (the oil reservoir area looks about like the reservoir on the
> 2 piece  4A diff cover), and another later (?) one piece cover that 
> directs the oil  flingin around in the diff toward the ring gear and 
> has more fins on it.  However, the later more heavily finned unit 
> holds about 8 ounces less fluid,  but it directs the oil directly onto 
> the gear and has those additional fins.
> 
> I would really like to skip the oil pump and cooler setup in the back 
> of the car, but may have to go that way anyhow.
> 
> BUT,
> Has anyone had  any experience with running the later, smaller oil 
> capacity but more finned  and directed oil units? And how would it 
> compare to the larger open chamber  cover?
> 
> If not, who has installed a pump and cooler back there? What did  you 
> use for a cooler and where did you put the outlet and inlet on the 
> diff...and why?
> 
> Usually in hot water myself...this time  oil!
> 
> Nick in Nor Cal
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