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Re: [Fot] GT6 Connecting rods

To: 'Scott Janzen' <sjanzen@me.com>, Spitfire Racing <spitfire_racing@twcny.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 Connecting rods
From: John Hasty <jhasty@mhc-law.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2015 14:47:55 +0000
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Thread-topic: [Fot] GT6 Connecting rods
No doubt that quality rods and crank are a must have for a race motor.  Don't 
know what kind of cranks you GT6 guys use, but if you go for a billet crank I 
suggest you have the rod journals sized to fit good old American V8's...the 
choice of good rods in what ever length you want is infinite and at half the 
price of Carillo's...not to mention that the choice of bearings is also 
infinite...we are using Manley H beam rods from a Ford modular engine in one 
motor and Scat H beam chevy rods in the other one and have had no problems 
turning the TR3 motor to 6500 and occasionally 7000.

-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott Janzen
Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2015 9:07 AM
To: Spitfire Racing
Cc: FOT list
Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 Connecting rods

I think it depends on what you want to do with the car.  Both my race motors 
have Carillo rods in them - one component I have no worries about. Beware those 
pesky little bolts on the Carillos - use a stretch gauge, not a torque wrench, 
cuz if you over-stretch one they are about $45 each, but I digress.

My motor sees 7,000 rpm five times a lap at Summit Point, so in a 12 lap race 
that's 60 cycles to redline over about 20 minutes. I like having parts I can 
rely on.  There are enough other weak points in a GT6 to fix!

When I originally got this car, it had six beautifully lightened, balanced and 
shot peened stock rods with ARP bolts. You could do that for a lot less money 
and probably be fine for 6,000 rpm regularly.

So, reliable competitive race car (Carillo), or fast street car/back half of 
the pack race car (improved stock), or fast race car if it doesn't blow up 
first (Chinese)?  Keep in mind that back in the day they ran stock rods to 
8,000 rpm.
If you are on a budget (we all are at some level, right?) and want to get on 
the track sooner than later - go for "stock" and know the limitations of the 
engine.  You can always upgrade later- that engine will not be "one and done", 
so you will have it apart every other year at a minimum and can swap out rods.
But I agree with Russ- don't buy the knockoffs and delude yourself that they 
are as good as the real stuff- that will just lead to catastrophe down the road.

Sent from my mobile device

On Dec 9, 2015, at 8:02 AM, Spitfire Racing <spitfire_racing@twcny.rr.com> 
wrote:

A properly built and modified race engine represents a mighty investment not 
only of dollars but of time. Is that really where you want to pinch pennies?
After all, with the exception of pistons and crank that is one of the primary 
components and all it takes is one piece inside an engine to reduce all your 
work and investment to nothing more than scrap metal. One seized valve, or 
substandard bolt even can be a disaster. It doesn't take much.
Realize all the ancillary invested expenditures that are also at risk like a 
weekend's entry fee you lose in an engine failure; the cost of time off from 
work to go to a race weekend; the cost of food and lodging for the race outing 
and the cost of just getting there. When asked, I usually advise folks to 
figure a race weekend is ~$1000 minimum when you roll all in.

A number of racers have run Pauter rods as stated before by Bill and these do 
present a less expensive alternative. I had the opportunity to rebuild an 
engine last year with Pauter rods and they were quite substantial and were well 
designed, constructed and balanced. Personally I have seen far too many Chinese 
knock-offs; reproductions (call them what you will), that fail to come close to 
the parts they try to mimic.
I suggest you perhaps delay your build until your war chest allows for top 
quality internals. Do it once and do it right the first time and reduce the 
potential for disappointing expensive disaster.

Russ Moore
Spitfire #49

-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jamie
Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2015 6:22 AM
To: McKearn McKearn
Cc: FOT list
Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 Connecting rods

Although I was initially very wary, they have worked well for over 1,000 race 
miles in our (horror) MGB engine.

Jamie Palmer


> On Dec 8, 2015, at 11:52 PM, McKearn McKearn <mckearn2@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Gents.
>   I am looking for feedback on the MaxSpeeding connecting rods for GT6.
Can't afford Carrillos and I'm hoping these are good. Also am still searching 
for an aluminum flywheel without having something custom made. and would like 
input on what type of clutch to use as well . Lets call it a race car for the 
sake of argument....
>                                Thanks.  P.J.
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