The borgeson joints actually have two set screws. The shaft they are supposed
to screw into is hollow. You drill a hole through one side of the hollow shaft
and run the screw through to the other side. the second set screw goes into a
dimple you drill. Both set screws are locked with a locknut. This is a pretty
positive locking arrangement. Kind of what you might want your steering to
use.
the TR6 joints are designed for splined shafts with a flat ground into them.
You pinch the housing onto the spline, but it's really the bolt passing by the
flat that locks the assembly in. And yes, they are kind of cludgy compared to
modern practice. They don't lock down well and there's some wiggle in the
resulting system from the loose fit on the splines. It took quite a bit of
grinding and some good, hard flange bolts the actually get it all locked down
for my street car. If it wiggles a tiny bit I'm tossing it all on top of my
pile of lucas distributors and replacing it with Borgeson stuff--which works
flawlessly.
On Oct 15, 2012, at 6:47 PM, Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com> wrote:
> Let's try this again in plain text:
> So here's the issue - I'm running TR-6 U joints. But the housing on one of
them is so beefy that the pinch bolt won't actually pinch it tight on the
steering shaft. When I rebuilt it last time, I even relieved some additional
metal out of the "slot" with a cutoff wheel to help this. I can slide the
shaft in and out of the u-joint slightly. If I tighten the bolt any more I'll
break it. This makes me very nervous.
>
> It appears that there is a Borgeson u-joint that's 9/16" - 36 spline on both
ends but rather than a pinch bolt it uses a large set screw. If I drill
dimples into the pieces it will firmly hold them in place. I've got one
coming.
>
> The odd thing is that of the TR-6 u-joints I have two distinct styles. One
doesn't have as beefy a pinch area so the pinch bolt can actually pinch the
darn thing together and make it nice and tight. Ideally I would find another
one of those, but the current manufacturing doesn't seem to follow that
pattern.
>
> I agree that the rag joints aren't a great idea - but that's not the problem
I have.
>
> Someone mentioned using an MBG u-joint (heresy!) - it appears that there are
more than one which will fit an MGB - anyone know which one is 9*16" x 36
spline?
>
> Thanks, Tony
>
> At 07:48 PM 10/15/2012, malaboge@aol.com wrote:
>
> Here's another vote for the TR6 joints...all metal and a direct bolt in.
The units with the "rag joint" are only outdone on the the "crummy scale" by
the units with eight conical "faucet washers" holding it all together. I do a
lot of tech for the local clubs and can't even count all of the bad, torn or
extremely loose joints I've found. Some were so bad the cars weren't allowed
on the track until the joints were fixed.
>
> All cars that come thru the shop with any of the rag/taper washer setups
automatically get the solid joints installed...now that's really a "safety
upgrade" ...unlike the song and dances I've heard for brakes, engines,
trannies...oh wait that's a different rant!
>
> Still tryin to keep it vintage...
> Nick in Norcal
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
> To: fot <fot@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 6:53 pm
> Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
>
>
> My steering shaft has two u-joints in it. The lower one is a big
> beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
> cast thing that was there before. The upper one isn't quite as heavy
> duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
> shaft. I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
> it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.
>
> So... Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
>
> Look forward to the advice.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
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