I'm forwarding these message for Greg. He has not been able to communicate
through the FoT autox.team.net address.
Dave H.
----- Forwarded Message -----
From: "Greg Solow" <Gregmogdoc@surfnetusa.com>
To: "davehogye" <dlhogye@comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2012 3:17:04 PM
Subject: Fw: [Fot] Never be beaten by equipment
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Solow" <gregmogdoc@surfnetusa.com>
To: "Robert Blake" <rblake36@yahoo.com>; <fot@autox.team.net>;
<GREGMOGdoc@surfnetusa.com>
Cc: "Blake Gregory" <greg.blake@atkinsglobal.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2012 9:41 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Never be beaten by equipment
> Concerning water flow and overheating. On all race engines we modify the
> block to improve water flow to the rear of the block. 1. Mount up the
> water pump housing onto the front of the block. with the liners removed,
> grind the rectangular opening through which all the water passes into the
> block. treat it like a head port. Enlarge the hole to match the gasket
> opening, smooth the transition into the block, open the hole to promote
> water flow down the right side of the water passage. 2. Round off and
> reduce the projections into the water jacket under the long cylinder head
> studs without removing to much material. 3. open up the rectangular
> opening in the bulkhead of the block between cylinder #2 &3. Round off the
> edges of this hole in a way to promote flow the front to the rear of the
> block. At the rear of the block, grind open the top rear to match the
> triangular water holes in the bottom rear of the head. Modify the head
> gasket to match. So the water transfer passages from the block the to head
> are both triangular, matching, and at least as large as the head casting
> will allow without getting to close to the cylinder sealing ring. 4.
> Lastly, lay the head gasket on the top of the block. There are 4 small
> round water holes on the left side under the spark plugs. Mark these hole
> on the top of the block and on the top of the liners. mark the liners so
> they can be reinstalled in the EXACTLY SAME POSITION each time they have
> been removed. Now grind a channel that is 1/2 round at the top, about 2
> inches long, getting wider toward the bottom straight down the inside of
> the water jacket of the block so that you have created a channel that
> leads water up into the round hole in the gasket and then into the passage
> under each of the 4 spark plugs. You can beneficially do the same thing on
> the matching side of each liner so there will be a fully round hole
> feeding water to the under side of each spark plug.
> We have not found it necessary to restrict any of the passages or vent
> coolant out of the heater outlet on the head.
> We also slow the water pump down by about 30% for engines that are
> normally run at speeds between 4,000 and 7,000 as we believe the pump was
> designed to operate optimally at around 2500 rpm in a Vanguard Saloon car.
> We have seen a lot of air bubble formation in engines run on the dyno at
> speeds over 4,000 rpm. Reducing the water pump speed 30% resulted in a
> dramatic reduction in these bubbles, and an increase in power at 6,000 rpm
> of about 6% on a "full race" engine.
> Lots of oil and the cylinder walls, proper skirt clearance, good
> coolant flow from front to rear in the block, a good radiator properly
> ducted and sealed to the front of the car should cure the scuffing and
> overheating issues.
>
> Greg Solow
>
> The Engine Room
>
> Santa Cruz, Ca
>
> 831 429-1800
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