The later cars that used the anti-runon had carbs that were plumbed
differently than the 68-71 versions. They also had a different oil pressure
switch to momentarily activate anti-run on shut down. I do not have a TR6
manual handy but looking at the emissions and wiring diagram on a 75-76 TR6
should explain it.I don't think it was designed just to cause a large vacuum
leak but to mess with the vacuum-pressure balance in the carb behind the
throttle plate. You probably can make it work on an earlier carb setup, just
not exactly as designed for the later one. They also had much lower
compression which probably aided shut down. It would be interesting to hear
if any one on the list has made it work on an early car.
Bill DeWar
NJTA
----- Original Message -----
From: <riverside@southslope.net>
To: "Larry Young" <cartravel@pobox.com>; "Kas Kastner" <kaskas@cox.net>
Cc: "fot" <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 2:22 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
> the refusal to achieve a slower idle speed makes me suspect a vacuum leak.
>
>
> art de armond
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Young
> Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 12:37 PM
> To: Kas Kastner
> Cc: fot
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
>
> I've got the idle as low as it will go at about 1,000. I think I might
> get it down to 800 with some carb work, but in the past it would still
> occur at 800. I have removed the vacuum retard, which helps the idle.
> I've been letting the clutch out to kill it for the past 25 years and
> would like to fix the problem rather than continue to work around it. I
> was hoping a carbon free engine after the rebuild would cure it, but it
> didn't. I don't fully understand the later TR6 setup, but I've heard it
> requires special carbs and was tied into the charcoal canister. The
> ADU9535 seems like the simplest way to go for a retro fit, since it
> could be tied into the brake booster line. Ed, if you've got one I'll
> be glad to take it off your hands.
> Larry
>
> On 8/6/2012 9:30 PM, Kas Kastner wrote:
> > In the olden days it was advised to reduce the idle rpm and that would
> > cure the problem, no valve, just a screw driver.
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