I had some trouble with these modern starters too.
>From vibration the lines to the solenoid inside the housing do break and
have contact occasionally.
Not very funny.
I've cut them off a little and soldered the wires from old starter brushes
of the stock starter in place.
These thick wire loops do work perfect and doesn't vibrate.
Cheers
Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Edward Dunn
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2012 2:04 PM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Starter problem / Clutch issue
First, is there a search function in the archives, etc? I hate asking a
question that may have already been answered.
On my GT6, the hi-torque starter is intermittent, and it seems to be heat
related but not always... I had it rebuilt by a reputable auto electric
shop,
but no improvement. Checked ground, solenoid, etc. I was told by a FOT racer
that the hi-torque starters are seldom properly rebuilt, and should be
simply
replaced instead of rebuilt.
Mr. Kastner told me they used to have a bucket of water standing by in the
pit
to pour on the starter so it would work. The car has a TSI header, which
really wraps around the starter bringing plenty of heat to it. Ted suggested
I
wrap the header, which I will do. Anyone use the starter insulating wraps as
seen on Jeg's etc? Any other ideas on keeping the starter functioning?
In addition, the clutch has trouble engaging when hot. The clutch line is
pretty close to the header as well, and I suspect it's getting too hot?
Insulate the clutch line? I just rebuilt the clutch master & slave, and am
using Castrol LMA fluid. What with the roll cage, it's real interesting
getting down in there to bleed.
Apologies if these questions are too simplistic, but oh well...
Ed
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