Jerry....You get the GOOD HUMOR AWARD for today!...Good Job Man!
Racer Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Barr" <jerrybarr@charter.net>
To: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2010 3:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Ever seen this one???
> Hey! Scott and I take exception to your comment about Barr's leak! I
> getting
> close to 70 and may leak a little but not Scott. In Wisconsin your
> mixture
> better be 50-50 because we see well below 00.
> On Aug 15, 2010, at 4:21 PM, Randall wrote:
>
>>> Oil in the radiator WITHOUT oil in the water?
>>
>> FWIW, I've got a similar symptom : oily residue on the cap but coolant
> looks
>> clean. I believe it's actually the remains of some Barr's Leak (or
> similar)
>> that I put in in a vain attempt to stop the headgasket leak. In spite of
>> both professional and amateur flushing, I still get oily brown gunk on
>> the
>> cap.
>>
>>> Had interesting overheating issue - runs fine 180-190 but
>>> when I turn it
>>> off, the water boils in the motor/radiator.
>>
>> That can be a symptom of crud (including old stop leak) built up in the
>> bottom/back of the block.
>>
>>> 50:50 prestone...
>>
>> Too much, IMO. 70:30 will provide better heat transfer and still protect
>> against corrosion (and freeze damage down to 0F or so).
>>
>>> 4 lb cap.
>>> Water goes into overflow bottle but does not appear to be pulled back
>>> into the radiator when the engine cools.
>>
>> I had exactly the same problem. The special 4 lb caps don't seem to hold
>> vacuum properly, meaning that air gets sucked in through the center of
>> the
>> cap, instead of drawing water uphill back from the bottle. Could also be
>> sucking air through the water pump seal.
>>
>> My solution was to have my radiator shop install a standard 3/4" fill
>> neck,
>> so I could use a modern radiator cap. I haven't actually installed a
>> recovery bottle yet, but I'm confident it will work when/if I do.
>>
>> Randall
>> _______________________________________________
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>>
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>>
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