Larry,
This summary is familiar territory to me.
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I just made up another 10 kits of the the rear shackle hard bushings with
Delrin side washers, if anyone is interested.
They make sense, work well, easy to install, and are seen in one of Kas'
books.
Sold by Moss and TRF, too,
Special pricing to FOT, of course.
Joe A
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Young <cartravel@pobox.com>
To: 'MIKE DEWEERD' <deweerdm@rogers.com>
Cc: fot@autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Aug 5, 2010 6:28 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] Hard cornering
When I got my TR3 it handled like crap. I didn't know if the problem was my
lack of talent or the car's suspension. I knew next to nothing about
suspension, so I read through all the FoT archives. I also found the Puhn book
to be very helpful. I also played with a suspension analysis program.
Many with a TR3 or TR4 with solid axle have found they like an almost stock
rear and very stiff front, such as:
1. stiff front springs, many use 450 lb/in MGBGT springs
2. 1 inch anti-sway bar in front
3. 2 1/2 degrees negative camber seems to be about right for Hoosier
Speedster, 1 1/2 degree for Vintage TD. This can be achieved by shortening the
up A arms.
4. toe in should be 0 to 1/16 inch
5. eliminate bumpsteer by raising or lowering the steering rack (TR4) or by
heating and bending the steering levers (TR3)
6. lower the front by shortening the donuts or by using shorter springs
7. lower the rear by dearching the rear springs or by using lowering blocks.
8. the rear should be basically stock, but the BFE rear spring locator kit may
help
9. hard bushings are also a good idea.
This should give a pretty good starting point. You can tweak from there. I
followed this recipe and it completely transformed the car. I never did get to
the tweaking phase.
You can find a lot of discussions of suspension in the archives. I especially
like the discussion where Jack Drews said they had all this neat "stuff" on
their suspension and with each piece they took off, their laps times got
faster.
Larry Young
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