Having cogitated on this a bit I think I know what is happening. Correcting
your rear camber increased traction at the rear, reducing the car's tail-happy
ways. Calling it "push" is indeed correct, the increased traction is pushing a
front end that was probably near it's limits before. All the suggestions
remain, with the added caution that cutting your front springs is undoubtedly
going to make things worse. I'd go for a softer front spring and a softer sway
bar setting. Also double check your toe. I doubt you need much. I'd try zero
or a very slight toe in.
On Apr 13, 2010, at 8:59 AM, Bill Babcock wrote:
> I'd try every suspension tuning trick before cutting anything, unless you
> really are going to do the cut anyway, then I'd do all the tweaking after
> that. Shortening your rear springs would have stiffened them, and that
> generally REDUCES understeer. For some reason your car went the other way,
so
> I'd guess there's something else going on. You are right in thinking
> shortening the front springs should increase understeer, but something is
> wrong somewhere, so if your determined to lower the ride height, get that
done
> and start tuning.
>
> The list starts with tire pressure. find a place you can use as a skid pad
or
> a track with minimal straights (skid pad is better). Run the car around
until
> tire temps settle and then get a reading. You want center temp the same as
> outer or inner (usually inner, though if your camber is really screwed it
> could be either). See what that gets you, might be all you need.
>
> Then set your camber. On a skid pad you want even temps across the tire, on
a
> track you'll probably be happy with inner and center the same, outer a bit
> cooler since it gets more cooling in the straights.
>
> Adjust your roll bar--softer reduces understeer.
>
> For sure check your bump steer, sometimes sudden onset understeer is caused
by
> roll-induced bump steer.
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