Wish I could drive my car well enough to recognize a need to make a bias
change on the next lap. My in car camera is new last season and my
braking is way to early, not even close to lock up on entering. and I'm to
easy getting back to the gas on exit. The camera is great because I can see
so much room for improvement. rob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Janzen" <s.janzen@comcast.net>
To: "Bill Bartlett" <BillBartlett@wingnutracing.com>
Cc: "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 7:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] (no subject)
> My GT6 came to me with a single cylinder master, which I did not feel
> comfortable with. I bought a tilton bias bar and two Girling masters
> - originally got Tilton masters, but the integral reservoirs were a
> little too tall and interfered with the bonnet. Fab'd a mounting
> assembly out of heavy gauge sheet metal, welded up, and had the Tilton
> bias tube grafted/welded on the top of the stock brake pedal.
> I fiddled with the bias adjustment a bit, and have it so the fronts
> lock up a little before the rears. I suppose if you were racing at
> the national level, wanted to adjust for changing fuel loads, wet/dry,
> etc, a cockpit adjustable bias might be good. However - I'm not that
> good a driver, so close is good enough!
> With dual masters, one thing you might want to think about is whether
> the front should be a larger bore- given that the pistons/cylinders in
> the calipers displace much more fluid than the rear wheel cylinders.
>
>
> On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 21:58:29 -0500, Bill Bartlett
> <BillBartlett@wingnutracing.com> wrote:
>> Hi Gents,
>> I am curious on the difference between brake "Biasing" and brake
>> "proportioning"?
>> Given that one has a set up with twin masters, one each for the front
> and
>> rear brake systems, is it better to use a bias adjustment cable from
> the
>> cockpit to adjust the amount of force given to the front and rear
> brakes,
>> or
>> should one use a proportioning adjustment valve. The bias bar
>> appears to
>> work
>> by adjusting the amount of force the pedal excerpts on the two
>> masters,
>> where
>> the proportioning reduces the amount of hydraulic force excerpted thru
> the
>> rear brake line to the slaves.
>> What is the deal? Does the Biasing do the heavy lifting and the
>> proportioning
>> the micro adjustment? I suppose one needs to start with the right
>> master
>> bores
>> to start with eh?
>> My car has a bias bar but it is only adjustable by inserting different
>> length
>> bushings between the clevis and the spherical bearing at the top of
>> the
>> peddle
>> assembly. I am debating whether to upgrade to the Tilton adjustable
> pedal
>> set,
>> put a proportioning valve in or just leave it alone and have different
>> bushing
>> sets for say wet and dry?
>> Thoughts?
>> And thank you for your time
>> Bill
>> PS; this is for a GT6
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