Dick: Who rebuilt the carburetors? You say the shafts and bushings have been
replaced and there is no leakage around the shafts, but, do the throttle plates
(butterfly's) close completely? When new shafts are installed they need to be
drilled for the cross pin which holds the throttle stop arm. If that is drilled
in the wrong location the throttle stop will come to rest on the idle screw
perch, but the throttle plate can still be open. Also, the plates can be in the
shafts backwards, with the chamfer facing the wrong way, which will cause the
throttle plate to not close completely. Check it out and let us know.
Good luck - Ed Barnard-
--- On Tue, 2/10/09, Gasket Works <gasket.works@verizon.net> wrote:
From: Gasket Works <gasket.works@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] help, please!
To: RLEslEagle@aol.com
Cc: fot@autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, February 10, 2009, 9:55 AM
Dick seems to have a problem... are there any mechanics who can help him?
See below.
md
----- Original Message -----
From: RLEslEagle@aol.com
To: gasket.works@gte.net
Sent: Monday, February 09, 2009 7:45 PM
Subject: help, please!
Greetings.
I need the help of this amazing pool of Triumph experience--Dave Swauger at
The Roadster Factory suggested I write. My car--a 1960 TR 3A. Problem,
after an engine rebuild--TR 4A head; 86 mm sleeves & pistons; new Vicky
Brit
street cam, lifters, & push rods; rebuilt SU carbs; etc, I have a
smooth-running engine that will not go below 2,000 rpm. I have checked the
following:
1. The intake manifold flanges have been newly machined flat & do not
leak
air (new gaskets, of course). Same with carb to intake manifold--new gaskets,
no leakage. Insulator blocks are the replacement plastic parts which do not
leak.
2. The distributor to camshaft gear is aligned correctly and static timing
is at 4 degrees tdc.
3. The vacuum advance is holding vacuum & not leaking air. Pipe and
connection at front carb okay.
4. The carb needles are the correct normal codes.
5. The carb rebuild included new shafts and bushings--no leakage with the
"carb spray test."
5. The valve train is working as normal & is accurately gapped.
The 2,000 "idle" is smooth, not rough, but with the idle adjustment
screws
entirely off their bases, the fast idle remains. (The choke enrichment cam is
not hanging the throttle shaft.) The only thing I can now imagine is that my
installation of the cam chain is one link off. But wouldn't that result
more
in an uneven idle than an idle twice as fast as normal but smooth?
Any help would be deeply appreciated. The car is a nicely restored example
and I hope to get it on the road as soon as the Ohio winter retreats. But,
there is this idle problem...
Thanks!
Dick Eslinger
Dayton, Ohio
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