Are we talking about pounding in the sealant-soaked felt strips
While lying on your back?
Holy cow.
Steve
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
-----Original Message-----
From: Catpusher@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2008 20:40:46
To: <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] : TR4 rear main seal
With a Standard seal this can be done with the TR2/earlyTR3 flywheel, but not
the later flywheel where weight was added to the block side. It is possible
with most of my racing flywheels.
If you must do this (is the oil pressure and temp OK)? Start with the center
cap and see how that bearing is. Leave the other caps fully torqued, as you
will probably want to rotate the crank, and the timing chain tensioner and
front seal are at risk. The gasket between the block and the front plate
usually
tears where it touches the front cap and sealing block. The rear cap will
need to be resealed. If you run a good oil like Redline, the mains can be less
than perfect if the rest of the motor is top notch.
If you do not have a lift or pit (I suspect like most of us) your quality
control might be difficult.
When you work lying on your back, a red light makes it look more professional
lol
Eye protection is essential, and a hotel disposable shower cap works well.
Hardy
In a message dated 11/10/2008 8:49:47 PM Pacific Standard Time,
fot-request@autox.team.net writes:
From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall@blacksburg.net>
Subject: [Fot] TR4 rear main seal
To: fot@autox.team.net
Message-ID: <0KA50035SFEHWOV4@vms173005.mailsrvcs.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
I need to change the main bearings in my TR4. The engine is in the
car with the gearbox attached. Is it possible to pull the rear main
cap? I'm specifically concerned about the seal - I have the new
split-type seal. I took lots of pix of the engine as I assembled it
*except* the split seal and associated bits.
TIA
jim
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