Sure. The overheating problem has an ultimate solution. We've tried
the usual list of water wetter, better ducting, better pumps, and all
that stuff and never was able to make much of an improvement.
The real solution is to convert to an aluminum Ford- or Chevy style
radiator. Even full of coolant, it weighs a lot less than a stock
copper radiator. And it's cheap! You can get one of these radiators
for under $200. It takes replumbing, which is easy, and mounting,
which isn't too hard, and a re-do of your ducting. I have to use a
thermostat to keep the engine hot enough. This radiator is much wider
than the stock one so it presents a bigger area to the incoming air.
I don't have pictures on a website, but I'll send you pictures of
mine if you want to see how I did it.
At 03:37 PM 6/8/2008, KENMUN@aol.com wrote:
>fot, just returned from a frustrating week end at sebring raceway. the
>racing was on a 1.7 mile course with a lot of time in 2nd/3rd gear
>and not many
>long straights to cool down. the car would run 7/8 laps with the
>temp going up
>on every lap. air temp was 90f+. when the gage was full scale (230f+) i'd
>come in. with a 7# cap the water was immediately boiling when i
>turned the car
>off, with a 16# cap when i turned the engine off the hoses blew off.
>i've got
>the original size rad with a modern 5 row core. it's fairly well
>sealed so the
> air has to go thru the rad. the oil cooler is mounted in the grill opening
>with a shroud between it and the rad. in three years of trying this,
>overheating remains my top problem. is there any ultimate solution?
>thanks for any
>comments or advice. ken m tr3 vintage racer
>
>
>
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uncle jack
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