I can say that I have many years on poly diff mounts. I used the first ones
available back in the late 70's when somebody was pouring them into homemade
molds, and I still have them. I replaced them with the newer, finer quality
stuff that is now available but the old red ones looked better after 15 years
than the rubber ones do after 3.
I would argue that the diff needs to be fairly securely mounted. The gears
inside are precisely mated and not likely to be effected by the additional
harshness. I guess that's a matter of opinion. I suspect that firm mounting
helps the half-shaft u-joints live longer. Failed rubber mounts are a leading
cause of rear diff mount bracket failures. I don't think it's the harshness
that does in the diff mounts, rather the hammering effect after the rubber
collapses. I wouldn't solid mount it, but I think poly is perfect.
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+rkramer=rdoequipment.com@autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+rkramer=rdoequipment.com@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Shane Ingate
Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2008 4:23 PM
To: vinttr4@geneseo.net
Cc: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 diff mounts
Uncle Jack asked:
> While I have the diff out, I could easily replace to the diff mounts.
> What's the best thing to do
I use poly. Alas, they do not have 30 years and 100,000 miles on them
so I cannot attest to their contribution to diff longevity.
Over the years in other cars, I have developed a fondness for
solid mounts under the engine, and soft mounts for the g/box
and diff. The solid mounts are good for "feeling" bearing condition
when cranking the motor. I was advised by many that solid mounts
for g/box and diff is too hard on the parts.
I have reinforced my diff mounts, so that any harshness that the
poly mounts bring into the equation may be offset by the bracing.
Shane Ingate in NM
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