Because of this breakage of the bond problem, in the past I have always
drilled an 1/8" hole right through both parts in the "V" of the pulley.
Then each time I checked the engine I would fit a 1/8" length of welding rod
into the hole to make certain the outer part had not moved in relation to
the inner part. Many times caught the movement. Sometimes a little other
times a lot.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Gehweiler" <mini@wi.rr.com>
To: <fot@autox.team.net>; "'Scott Janzen'" <S.Janzen@comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 5:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Assembling new engine with old crank pulley - timing mark
12-15 degress off - why?
> Scott,
> Sometimes the vulcanizing bonding the rubber to the inner and outer metal
> parts of the vibration damper lets loose. The two parts can then move in
> relation to each other. I was timing an old British car once and I could
> actually use the timing gun to watch the timing marks rotate around the
> crank as the engine ran. Needless to say it was not possible to time that
> car as it was, had to replace the vibration damper.
>
> Richard Gehweiler
> mini@wi.rr.com
> 1.262.894.5460
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces+mini=wi.rr.com@autox.team.net
> [mailto:fot-bounces+mini=wi.rr.com@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott
> Janzen
> Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 12:14 PM
> To: fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Assembling new engine with old crank pulley - timing mark
> 12-15 degress off - why?
>
> I am assembling a new GT6 engine, re-using the vibration damper/crank
> pulley
> that was fitted to the previous engine - TDC marked on my flywheel, triple
> checked with dial indicator, etc. Fitted the old damper/pulley and the
> TDC
> mark is off by about 12-15 degrees. did the keyways on the cranks vary
> that
> much in location from Triumph or am I missing something? Since it was in
> the
> correct location on the old engine I doubt the exterior casing of the
> damper
> has slipped
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