I think you answered that question. If you can't fix the whacky
suspension geometry then stiff springs are your only option. Stiff
springs and a big anti-roll bar is the prescription.
It's pretty easy to fix the geometry if your sanctioning body allows
it. stock length or a tiny bit longer upper arms and move the inner
pivot point inwards however far you need to get the camber your tires
require. Late TR4 lower trunnion and upper arms if you want 3 degrees
of caster and a better ball joint setup. Then figure out how to get
zero bump steer by hook or by crook. Nothing impossible. if you do
that you can use softer than stock springs. Good shocks are a must of
course.
Suspension isn't just for taking up bumps. Stiff springs and a hard
roll bar will affect turn-in negatively, as in: it won't. The contact
patches move counter to steering input--unhandy. Personally I like
having a car that steers, especially in fast corners.
On Feb 2, 2008, at 11:44 AM, Jack W. Drews wrote:
> Good advice from Ted.
>
> I failed to mention that I had help on this project from Ted
> Schumacher. He identified springs he had in stock that could be
> modified to approach my specifications. Low price, quick delivery,
> good quality. Try Ted first.
>
> I purchased a set, modified and installed them. I have had a chance
> to test them only on a limited basis because the test weekend was cut
> short by other problems, but my initial reaction is that the car is
> responding positively to stiffer springs. They are in the car at the
> minute. I think it's going to be fun to do the comparison.
>
> I went on to purchase a set of springs from Revington because they
> were closer to the rate that I was shooting for. I don't know if the
> car will handle any better with them. I'll have to wait until I have
> a chance to try them. So if you are looking for a somewhat higher
> rate than the popularly used MGB-GT springs, Ted's are some to
> consider.
>
> Of course this raises a point that may provide fodder for discussions
> well into Springtime -- how stiff should the springs in a TR4 be? I
> know of springs in current race cars that are stock, springs that are
> 480 or so (MGBGT) and springs that are 600 lbs/in. Some folks say we
> should use relatively soft springs and let the suspension do its job
> -- but with the abominable front end geometry we have, one could
> question why we would want the front end to move at all from static.
> In addition, all the modern tracks we run on are as smooth as glass
> (except Grattan, of course) so we're no longer looking at dealing
> with bumps.
>
> There are lots of formulae around to help select spring stiffness.
> I've never been smart enough to bring one of those engineering
> approaches to completion, so decided to try some things and see what
> feels best to my hind end.
>
>
>
>
>>> Jack, when you receiove the springs, do a rate check. See how
>> accurate they are. Ted
>
> uncle jack
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Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb@bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com
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