Wow, that's really slick.
Neil, your new catalog is very functional, but I don't think it markets very
well. I'd never find this part in it if you hadn't brought our attention to
it.
-----Original Message-----
From: Neil Revington [mailto:neil@revingtontr.com]
Sent: Wed 1/2/2008 2:42 AM
To: Bill Babcock; Jack W. Drews; Fot@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Fot] Suspension modifications
Have a look at #RTR3112K on our website.
Is this what you are looking for?
http://www.revingtontr.com/shop/mainframe.asp?http://www.revingtontr.com
/shop/product_display.asp?a=2&mscssid=KSUJT99M9RS92NRV00JP4Q4021E97X00&S
iteLanguage=eng&CarType=ALL&PageType=home&ProductID=RTR3112K
Cheers
Neil Revington
Revington TR,
Home Farm,
Middlezoy,
Somerset, TA7 0PD.
England
Tel:- +44(0)1823 698437
Fax:- +44(0)1823 698109
email:- neil@revingtontr.com
web: www.revingtontr.com
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+neil=revingtontr.com@autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+neil=revingtontr.com@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Bill Babcock
Sent: 24 December 2007 20:02
To: Jack W. Drews; Fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Suspension modifications
I don't run this modification on Peyote, but I did on my cheater TR3,
and I probably will add a version of it to Peyote this year.
I made a 1/4" steel plate that holds the pivot point using two
countersunk screws to hold the rear of the pivot to the plate. The front
pivot bolts go tthrough the original back pivot holes, and the front of
the plate bolts to the original front pivot bolt holes. This moves the
pivot back the width of the pivot bolt hole spacing--about 1.6 inches as
I recall. According to SusProg it's too much, but it's easy to do and it
works pretty well. Most of the force against the pivot pushes the plate
down against the shock towerr--I never had even a hint of bending or
other problems. In fact I forgot to fully tighten the countersunk bolts
once and didn't have any problem. Many years ago I recall seeing someone
run a TR3 with the pivot moved back and only bolted on the front side
through the rear bolt holes--same idea but a much scarier approach. In
fact it was the inspiration for my modification.
You need to make the upper arms longer to clear the shock tower and give
a proper amount of camber, so it makes sense to convert to rose joints
and have adjustability. With the stock arms you'd have about four
degrees of camber, which is too much for our semi-radial tires. I'm a
bit fuzzy on how I set that up, but I recollect it was 3 degrees with
Comp TA tires and 3.5 with Yokohama A008's. With the arms set for bias
ply tires (0 to 1 degree) I had about two degrees of camber gain at full
bump (according to my sketchy notes).
-----Original Message-----
From: Jack W. Drews [mailto:vinttr4@geneseo.net]
Sent: Mon 12/24/2007 11:30 AM
To: Bill Babcock
Subject: Re: [Fot] Suspension modifications
I agree with everything you've said about the camber change, the excess
at full limit, small contact patch at high camber angle, and the
advisability of leaving the upper a-arm at least as long as stock
-- maybe longer is even better. I'd like to modify my car as you
suggest.
Last winter I spent some amount of time trying to figure out how to do
that and was not successful in figuring it out. I have one photo
somewhere of one of your cars, Peyote I think, that looks like the new
attaching points are on brackets welded to the front and back of the
tower and braced at least in the rear to the diagonal brace to the rear.
My problem was trying to figure out how to do that on a car with stock
bodywork without removing the body.
Any suggestions?
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