leaking H6 carbs is one of the main reasons why many of us are using HS6
carbs.
I am reluctant to even rebuild H6's for friends because they are probably
going to leak.
Dave hagenbuck at TRF has O rings to replace the cork gland washers that he
says work.
The jet bearing is not replaced when they are rebuilt; it is not part of the
rebuild kit. It can get out of round by years of the jet rubbing against it
when the choke is pulled on and off. If this has happened the cork washer
won't seal.
Bruce
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Belfer" <colordog.1@earthlink.net>
To: "Friends of Triumph" <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 11:23 AM
Subject: [Fot] SU H6 rebuilding four questions... drip drip drip
> After careful cleaning and rebuilding of my race SU carbs, the rear carb
> slowly drips blue racing fuel. I'm actually at a better point now than I
> was
> before when both of them were drooling gasoline. I've rebuilt them twice
> on
> the bench and once in the car. :) I suspect the problem lies with the
> small
> cork "jet gland seals" that get compressed between the cupped washers.
> I've
> soaked these little guys in oil overnight to soften them up but perhaps my
> rebuild kits are too old and they have dried out too much. There's a
> "leak
> proof" o-ring replacement from Moss, are these any good?
>
> Here are my four questions:
>
> 1, How tight should I go with the jet locking nut? Until the upper
> (outer)
> jet bearing is aligned with the bridge? As I tighten it, a tan cork seal
> gets
> compressed.
>
> 2, The jet-gland gaskets that I described above were compressed into
> tight
> little doughnut shapes when I took the old ones out. The new ones don't
> seem
> to compress very much and I think they're the cause of my leak. Will they
> seal better over time as they get soaked with gas and the spring keeps
> smooshing them?
>
> 3, The jet adjusting nut at the bottom hangs up on the spring and causes
> the
> jet bearing to turn when I try to tighten the nut. I added a thin washer
> between the nut and the bottom of the spring. Is this okay?
>
> 4. All the adjustment procedures are for a 500rpm stock idle. My race car
> won't do that. More like 1200rpm. Can I synchronise the carbs and adjust
> the
> mixture at a high idle?
>
>
> Thanks gang.
>
> ~Steve
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