Thanks to those observant individuals who pointed out that differential lube
everywhere was probably due to failed leather axle tube seals, not to the
outer bearing seal being bad, and that I could avoid all the mega-force
solutions needed to take the hub apart by just pulling the axle and
replacing the seal. I did pose the question about disassembling the hub,
but a few of you noticed that I may have been asking the wrong question.
The outer bearing seal retained a few ounces of wd-40 last night with the
axle standing on its end, so I'm going to assume it's good and try the axle
tube/low effort approach first.
Thanks for all the feedback.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Babcock" <billb@bnj.com>
To: "Jim Prettyleaf" <jprettyleaf@yahoo.com>
Cc: "Friends of Triumph" <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 2:16 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 Rear Hub Removal
> Personally I like the big bang method. I've never failed to
> disassemble a hub, but you do have to watch your toes. I don't have
> no stinking tool, just a press and a BFH (big .. hammer)
> Bill Babcock
> billb@bnj.com
> bnj Website for Babcock & Jenkins, a direct and interactive agency
>
> You can subscribe to my Blogs
> Via email:
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> or Via RSS
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>
>
>
> On Mar 10, 2007, at 3:40 PM, Jim Prettyleaf wrote:
>
>> When British Leyland dealers were still around one of the
>> dealerships broke the end off of one of the stub axles for my TR-6
>> when attempting to use the factory approved tool recommended for
>> disassembling the rear hubs. As you can guess I was rather upset
>> when the Triumph dealer told me that it was my fault for improperly
>> servicing the car and that I would need to pay for the new stub
>> axle. My opinion was that the dumb-bells in his service department
>> could not decide when to give up and look for a better method, and
>> that the dealer should buy the new axle if I could find a way to
>> take them apart. This all happened so long ago that I can't recall
>> how I was finally referred to the local expert who knew how to take
>> the TR-6 hubs apart without breaking them; perhaps it was one of my
>> professors at Cal Poly San Luis Obispo who knew this Guru.
>>
>> According to the local expert the factory tool is not stiff
>> enough, flexes under pressure, and deflects the wheel mounting
>> flange, which then tightens the grip between the flange and the
>> shallow taper on the axle. The Guru then showed me his homemade
>> fixture which he used to disassembled the undamaged hub, then he
>> machined off the fractured shard of the axle the Triumph dealership
>> broke and used a drift to push out the broken axle. I was
>> thoroughly impressed and subsequently copied and improved his
>> fixture slightly.
>>
>> The trick is to hold the wheel mounting flange so that it is flat
>> and cannot deflect when applying the force. To provide stiffness
>> the top plate of the fixture is made from an 8" square piece of
>> 3/4" thick steel plate and a 2 and 5/8" hole is bored in the
>> middle. The top plate of the fixture is also drilled to
>> accommodate the four by 4.5 bolt circle of the studs in the
>> flange. To make sure it cant bend and tighten the taper the top
>> plate is attached to four 3/8 thick by 2 deep rectangular plates
>> that are welded underneath the four edges of the top plate. After
>> all of the welding is completed the surface that mates to the wheel
>> mounting flange is machined flat using a milling machine. The top
>> plate does not bend because to do so it would need to stretch four
>> 3/8 thick by 2 deep steel plates. A steel mandrel that screws
>> onto the threaded end of the stub axle is used to apply the press
>> force. The mandrel is made with a deep threaded hole so that it
>> completely
>> engages and covers all of the threads on the stub axle. The
>> mandrel also has a shoulder that protrudes past the surface of the
>> wheel mounting flange and applies force directly to the mating
>> shoulder on the axle just past the point where the threads end.
>>
>> If anyone in the San Francisco Bay Area wants to disassemble
>> TR-4, TR-250 or TR-6 axles just let me know and and we can make
>> arrangements to take your axles and my fixture to a local
>> automotive machine shop that has a 40 ton press. It is great fun
>> watching the guys that work there cringe when the press is pumped
>> up to 18 tons of force and the small amount of heat is applied to
>> the flange. Even when the force is minimized by applying a little
>> heat it still makes a very satisfying big bang when the taper lets
>> go. By the way the mandrel is constructed so that parts cannot fly
>> out of the press and everything is designed so that travel is very
>> limited after the taper releases.
>>
>> Jim Prettyleaf
>> Cupertino , California
>> TR-6 Comm # 55432L
>>
>>
>>
>>
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