<< All the guys that know how to do that are mostly dead. You need . .
. a wizard at welding to even consider the process. >>
As it happens, I was recently referred to one of these wizards,
specifically for welding up a cast block. The recommendation came to me
from a guy whose business it is to know the difference between good
metal work and bad.
Mark, I believe I remember you writing that you're in New York, so this
may not do you much good, but for those of us here in the Midwest, it's:
Robert A. Caldwell
R&R Weld Specialties, Inc.
(262) 547-4776
1504 South West Avenue
Waukesha WI 53189
bobcaldwell@wi.rr.com
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bill Babcock
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 1:24 PM
To: Tony Drews
Cc: FOT@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3 Block - boat anchor?
I'd sure give it a try. It's probably one of the corner studs on the
pushrod side--the block cracks right on the inside edge of the stud
hole. They ALL crack there. Here's what I'd try: Heat the stud up to the
point that you can turn it--I'd probably start the heating process by
welding a piece of bar stock to the stud near the base to give a grip.
You'll probably have to heat the cast iron as well.
Proceed slowly, get the joint red hot and the brazing should melt enough
for you to turn out the stud.
Step two--get in touch with Greg Solow and get some of his special ARP
corner studs--they have longer threaded sections. Follow his directions
for drilling the hole deeper and tapping it with a bottoming tap. Once
that's done, I'd probably re-tap the hole for a helicoil that goes all
the way to the bottom of the deeper hole. That will give you good
threads all the way that are deeper than stock.
Put in Greg's super studs and Bob's your uncle. This repair should be
BETTER than another block because you'll find the stud holes cracked in
just about any block you buy.
I'd never try to weld a cast iron block. All the guys that know how to
do that are mostly dead. You need a big container of insulating stuff
like Vermiculite and a wizard at welding to even consider the process. I
know one guy in Oakland that can do it, but he lives in a loft above his
shop and is certifiably nuts.
Bill Babcock
billb@bnj.com
www.bnj.com Website for Babcock & Jenkins, a direct and interactive
agency
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On Feb 10, 2007, at 8:30 AM, Tony Drews wrote:
> I would either leave it alone or look for another block. Personally,
> I'd be looking for another block. Holes can be drilled out and
> tapped, and an insert can be threaded and bonded into the larger hole
> to bring it back to the right size (I've had that done before), but
> welding up cast iron is a dicey proposition.
>
> There's nothing worse than retorquing your head after the first heat
> cycle and having one of the head studs strip out. Well, OK, there
> probably ARE worse things, but it's definitely a sinking feeling.
>
> As far as I know, keeping the block "numbers correct" doesn't add much
> value to the TR's (unlike, say, early Corvettes).
>
> - Tony Drews
>
> At 11:11 AM 2/10/2007, Mark Eginton wrote:
>> Has anyone seen an incidence where a early TR3 /4 block had to be
>> thrown out due to problems with the head bolt stud hole. I am really
>> worried about messing with this stud that my dad braised to the block
>> up the early '60s but on the other hand, Murphy dictates the fillet
>> is bound to eventually cause head gasket problems eventually.
>>
>> Seems like at the very least it should be able to be welded up and
>> re-drilled and tapped but it may be naive on my part.
>>
>> This local machine shop is talking about a ceramic insert that is
>> "glued in"
>> but I don't have the nerve to believe him.
>>
>> Thoughts or referrals, I am ready to build but need to get pass this
>> one...
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Mark
>>
>> 57 TR3 vintage racer
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