I'm filling up the cavity with a high grade silicone product. I expect
it might hold it together and maybe even improve the dampening
characteristics.
Bob Kramer
Sales Manager
16415 North IH35
RDO Equipment Co.
Pflugerville, TX 78660
800-775-3838
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fot@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-fot@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bill Babcock
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 8:57 PM
To: 'BOB KRAMER'; fot@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [FOT] HS6 jet assembly and tranny mount
I can't answer your first question, but the second point sounds like
good
news. I always use the rubber mounts, but I modify them so that when
(not
if) they fail not very much happens other than a bit of thumping. Next
time
I take the transmission out I'll take a picture.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fot@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-fot@autox.team.net] On
Behalf
Of BOB KRAMER
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 5:51 PM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: [FOT] HS6 jet assembly and tranny mount
I am new to using HS6's in a race car and I have few questions.
The jet assemblies that came with the rebuild kit look "Harbor Freight"
to
me. They have a sheathed rubber tube that pushes on to plastic float
bowl
fitting on one end and a similar push on tube attached to the jet. I
wasn't
going to use them because I had new ones from my old 2.5 Saloon, but
those
turned out to be .90 not .100. Are these suitable or should I order new
ones
from APT?
We always pulled the damper plunger off on the H6's. Does the same trick
apply to HS6's or do they behave differently?
On another note, I have decided that the welded-up transmission mount
that
so many of use must contribute to or possibly be the root cause of the
frothy fuel problem and subsequent loss of power that a similar number
of us
have experienced. Charles Runyan sent me one of his new made in TAIWAN
mounts after the VTR National a few weeks ago to test after I told him
that
the stock mounts don't hold up to racing. After looking at his mount I
ordered one from Moss to gauge the difference. The Moss unit matches
what I
remember to be the original design, with the upper metal portion (with
the 2
studs) folded over and bonded to the rubber right at the molded in gap
between top and bottom metal pieces. IMHO that weak area is why they
failed.
The new TRF unit has more rubber off to the sides and Charles had them
move
the gap a little more to the center and away from the edge of the metal
to
allow for more surface area for the rubber to bond with. I am going to
pull
my metal monstrosity out and test Charle's Taiwanese treasure out in my
car.
I do expect it will last longer, but it all depends on the quality of
the
rubber and the bonding. We will see.
Bob Kramer
rkramer3@austin.rr.com
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