Similar problem on Peyote. I use a motorcycle cable now, but as soon
as I can get to it I'll use a push-pull which you can have fabricated
at many instrument shops. Big advantage is that if your springs break
you can close the throttle with your toe. The cable cover stop used
to be attached to the manifold, but I made a bracket that uses the
oil pan cover bolts and an arm that turns the linkage from the top. I
can send you a picture if that would help. Next iteration will be a
cable that is pushed by the pedal and pushes an arm under the linkage.
On Jul 30, 2006, at 11:33 AM, J.C. Hassall wrote:
> Amici,
> My TR4 has tubular headers which interfere with the linkage I
> planned for the dual Webers with Canon manifolds. The manifolds
> have a boss on top to support a shaft and linkage to drive the
> butterflies; the rear manifold has a boss underneath to support a
> bellcrank. The setup is similar to the Moss setup at <http://
> www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?
> PlateIndexID=29794&SortOrder=1>
> I planned to use a bellcrank under the carbs to translate
> horizontal accelerator arm motion to vertical to pull on an arm on
> the shaft mounted above the carbs. Problem is, one tube of the
> headers interferes with the bellcrank, so I only have about 1/4"
> travel. Fine if I don't want speeding tickets, but no fun to drive.
>
> Plan B is to fabricate a cable, perhaps from bicycle cable parts,
> but I'll have to fabricate a support tube to ensure that the cable
> pulls straight down. And of course add a return spring for safety.
>
> Plan C is to fabricate a spacer to stand off the the bellcrank from
> the manifold mounting boss by about 1.2", which should clear the
> manifold, and rely on the heim joints to accommodate all the
> angular mismatches.
>
> Anyone have suggestions for a better installation?
>
> TIA
>
> Jim
> --
> Jim Hassall
> Blacksburg VA
> jhassall@blacksburg.net
> '63 TR4 in autox preparation - 90% finished, 90% to go
>
>
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