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Re: [FOT] TR6 flywheel bolts

To: Charly Mitchel <charly@mitchelplumbing.com>
Subject: Re: [FOT] TR6 flywheel bolts
From: Bill Babcock <BillB@bnj.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2006 22:33:36 -0700
You should look at the quartermaster clutches. I'm using a two plate  
rally clutch in Peyote and have completely solved my clutch problems  
(which were many, many, many).

On Jul 24, 2006, at 7:53 AM, Charly Mitchel wrote:

> Allen, attached is a drawing Kas sent me of an adaptor to fix the  
> problem you
> had.  I never tried it and went another route.  I had the crank end  
> drilled
> for four dowel pins and used the ARP bolts.  The extra dowels are  
> supposed to
> take the pressure off the bolts and the bolts only have to hold the  
> flywheel
> tight to the crank. I think the ARP bolts I used are flywheel bolts  
> from a
> Chevy.  I can get the # if needed. It has worked fine for me since  
> and I now
> have clutch problems.  The clutch pressure plate keeps coming apart.
> I was also told once the bolts have vibrated loose and worked out,  
> the threads
> in the crankshaft will never hold again.  Since I used a  
> lightweight flywheel,
> I rotated the flywheel 45 degrees on the crank and used the old  
> bolt holes for
> the pins and drilled and tapped new holes for the bolts. I'm not  
> sure if you
> can relocate a stock type flywheel like this.
> Charly Mitchel
> TR6 #44
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Allen Washatko" <awashatko@wi.rr.com>
> To: "Friends of Triumph Triumph" <fot@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2006 7:44 PM
> Subject: [FOT] TR6 flywheel bolts
>
>
>> Dear FOT,
>>
>> I had the unfortunate problem of having my aluminum flywheel bolt  
>> heads
>> worked off by the infamous TR6 crank harmonics at the BRIC last
>> weekend. Tried to drill out the bolts for four hours but working  
>> in the
>> toe box at 97 degrees was too much to overcome ( as well as the hard
>> steel). So my question now is what is the recommended fix for this
>> problem? I was using ARP socket head cap screws but only with the  
>> four
>> bolt holes and one pin configuration. Kas' book describes the problem
>> but doesn't give a detailed solution for the TR6 flywheel. I'm  
>> assuming
>> that I should add perhaps two additional bolts and an additional pin.
>> Am I close? Thanks for any help.
>>
>> Allen
>>
>> Jody & Allen Washatko
>> N65 W5567 Columbia Road
>> Cedarburg, WI. 53012
>>
>> tel. (262) 375-6888
>>
>>
>> ===  Help keep Team.Net on the air
>> ===     http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Received: from workstation3 [65.37.115.185] by mytangledweb.com
>   (SMTPD32-6.06) id A4D344DF00F2; Tue, 23 Sep 2003 09:29:07 -0700
> Message-ID: <025901c381ef$f95bdda0$6502a8c0@workstation3>
> From: "Charly Mitchel" <charly@mitchelplumbing.com>
> To: <vucinic@b140.aone.net.au>, "'Hugh Barber'"  
> <tr6nut@sbcglobal.net>,
>   "Robert Dardano" <19to1tr6@comcast.net>, "Bill Babcock"
>   <BillB@bnj.com>, "John Price" <jprice1@txcyber.com>,
>   <rhill@chorus.net>
> Cc: <fot@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Kas's crank adaptor
> Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 09:30:17 -0700
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> alternative
>
> This is the adaptor for the TR250 and early TR6 motor.  It may be  
> able to be
> used on other motors as well.
> Anyone I might have missed, email me and let me know. Charly
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a  
> name of crank hub.jpg]
>
>
> ===  Help keep Team.Net on the air
> ===     http://www.team.net/donate.html



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