I think most of the reason that stiff springs _seem_ to work on race cars is
that they limit the movement of the suspension, and if your suspension is
working against control(bump steer, excessive camber gain, weird roll
center, etc.), then less is good. But if you get everything else working
properly--bring the roll center up in the front so it matches the rear,
eliminate bump steer for the full travel of the suspension, get the camber
gain right--then suspension movement helps keep the car in contact with the
road.
A softer rear end moves the a more towards neutral handling. It reduces
understeer but doesn't induce oversteer unless it's really soft. Both of my
TR3-based cars have radius rods and panhard bars in the back end, so the
springs are not being used to locate the rear end--they are pretty much just
springs.
-----Original Message-----
From: triumph_marx@freenet.de [mailto:triumph_marx@freenet.de]
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 7:24 AM
To: Bill Babcock; fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [FOT] Rear spring bushings
I use the standard leaf springs at my TR4.
I HAVE lots of oversteer caused by the welded diff.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Babcock" <BillB@bnj.com>
To: "'Mark York'" <m-syork@comcast.net>; <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 9:04 AM
Subject: RE: [FOT] Rear spring bushings
> Whoa--Addition of a leaf? What prompts you to increase the spring rate? Is
> this what other guys are doing to TR3's, and if so, why? For what it's
> worth, I found that my TR3 handled better with a very soft rear end, I
took
> out the two shortest springs. Peyote has the same setup.
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