Perhaps one goes looking for other variables, on the dyno, such as engine
mounts.
Or it is the Stockholm Syndrome. I have held my Strombergs captive since
1969 and they have aligned themselves to my expectations.
> I found this in the FOT archives. Jack Wheeler wrote..
> "For what it's worth, I will give you my experience with a TR-4 full race
> engine. Prior to 1985 I had used springs in the carbs (1 3/4 SU H6's) and
> automatic transmission fluid in the dashpots. In 1985 we put the engine on
> a dyno and found horsepower improvements at top end by taking the springs
> out all together and running the dashpots dry. I was initially concerned
> about driveability at speeds other than full RPM, but after the change, the
> car was quicker throughout the range, with no loss of performance at any
> RPM range.
>
> Also when the carbs were set up by Dick Stockton, he drilled a 1/8" hole in
> the brass cap on the top of the dashpot, and cut the stem off that goes
> down into the dashpot with the damper on it. I ran the car this way for 15
> years and never had any problems.
>
> For those of you not familiar with me, this car won at the SCCA Runoffs in
> 1990, so was pretty quick with this setup."
>
> Catpusher@aol.com wrote:
> I found my current cans of SAE 20 in an Ace HW in Florida, and use this in
> street motors
> that call for this.
>
> Dyno results for my TR3 87mm HC full race motor for both 1.75" and 2" SUs
> had
> wild
> SU piston flutter and power loss with minimum damper action; much better
> results
> with SAE 20 oil, and the best with type F ATF & STD piston springs
> The motor power band is 5500 to 7200
> TR6/Spit (or RX7, HD 2 wheeler) results may differ.
>
> BTW: the TR4A (TR3B Mk III) center pull set up is vastly superior to the
> earlier set up.
>
> I wonder what the SCCA rule book would think about an alum TR3/4 front
> engine
> plate?
>
> I drilled mine full of holes, also for air flow; really bent a couple too
> (safety strap?)
>
> More than one MGB racer that tried that for the rear plate (real weight
> savings) was called on it.
>
> If you race with OD; I Highly recommend running a Safe, full time, pressure
> gauge. Really!
>
> For the A type, the lubrication oil only starts working once the accumulator
> piston has made it to the blow-off drillings, so too high a set pressure is
> not good.
>
> I ran an interesting OD cooling system that even helped speeds in the ATA
> bridge turn.
>
> Hardy
>
>
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