Here's what I know about the subject.
The Weber soft mount kits can easily be adapted to work just fine. There
are different Weber soft mount kits out there. One type is a plastic block
with two grooves cut in it and two O-rings. I am pretty sure they will work
just fine, but they look a bit fiddley to install.
Here's a picture:
http://aptfast.com/Images_Parts/Weber_Carburetors/Soft_Mounts.jpg
Then you have the trick one piece item, the tabs to attach to the studs are
metal. Sort of looks like one big fat O-ring formed around a metal
retainer. As Joe B says, elongate the holes so they slip over two studs,
and Bob's your uncle. Well, he is after you replaced all the studs on the
intake manifold with longer ones...
Half way down, a picture of the one piece item:
http://www.rdent.com/pages/carblink.html
Then you have two different kinds of isolators for between the nyloc nuts
and carb flange. Metal springs and hard rubber. The link above shows the
hard rubber kind. I seem to remember hearing the metal spring kind is
better, but they fatigue and do not last forever.
One soft mount kit has the two big bits that go between the carb and the
intake manifold, but only comes with 4 little isolators for under the
nylocs. If you buy the trick kind from R Dent, everything is a la carte.
Obviously, you are going to need 8 isolators for under the nylocs, but I'd
recommend buying a bunch of extras, both the spring kind and the hard
rubber kind. I use some of both kinds on my setup.
I can't say how much these helped me, as I installed them for the first
time with a new set of carbs. All I can say is I'm not having much in the
way of carb issues at the moment. ;-)
At 06:54 PM 05/05/2005 -0700, Bill Babcock wrote:
>You want the carb to float, and since it's relatively lightweight it will
>have it's on resonance points, completely different from the engine. On
>Peyote I've found I can create flat spots by tightening the manifold bolts
>too much. Keep them loose and they won't leak, tighten them up and they do.
>Weird, but it makes sense. I make sure I have .030" between the turns of the
>spring washers, which have three turns in the setup I use. Much less than
>that and bad stuff starts happening. Much more and I don't compress the
>O-rings and I get leaks.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Joe Boruch" <jaboruch@netzero.net>
>To: <BillB@bnj.com>
>Cc: <garygret@sbcglobal.net>; <vinttr4@geneseo.net>; <fot@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, May 05, 2005 9:09 AM
>Subject: RE: float bowls on HS6 carbs
>
>
> > Yes, you just need to elongate 2 of the holes for the plate that gets
> > sandwiched between the carbs and manifold. Also longer studs to use
> > nylock nuts will be needed. My SUs are set up that way. Joe(B)
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