A little horsepower certainly helps. Triumphs have a lot of ways to
accomplish this feat. The front axles are a bit weak, as are the hubs. You
can break a hub at the bearing carrier and have the wheel depart briskly.
You can use the steel wheels and have the entire center crack away. They
break out the bolt circle. You can break a rear axle--the usual place they
break is at the end of the woodruff key and since there isn't any shoulder
or bearing retainer the entire wheel departs.
You don't have to hit anything. 40 year old parts and a bit of neglect are
more than enough. Here's what you do to avoid this trauma:
Steel wheels--reinforce them or don't use them. Crack check any wheel you
use (including aftermarket aluminum) every few years--and look them over a
lot more often than that.
Front hubs--crack check and reinforce with throughbolts. Crack check the
axle stub and keep the bearings in good shape. For a bit of money you can
get aluminum hubs and uprated hubs. The uprated hubs have the further
advantage of enabling you to shim the bearings which means your pads won't
be shoved back in every corner.
Rear axle--if you have high HP and a heavy car or good traction you need the
Southwick conversion. Silly not to. Otherwise crack check and keep an eye on
your parts.
Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fot@Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-fot@Autox.Team.Net] On Behalf
Of triumph_marx@freenet.de
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 12:30 PM
To: fot@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Loosing a wheel
What do you need to loose a wheel?
Slick tires or is a Yoko A032 just strong enough to brake a wheel of?
What does this occure? Driving over curbs?
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "John W" <john@race-dogs.com>
To: "'fot@autox.team.net'" <fot@Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 7:20 PM
Subject: Re: STAIGHT CUT DOG GEARS
> Chuck - I know you wouldn't do anything like that!!
> Hmmm- Or would you -
> See you at Willow Springs - I'll be in the Yellow Z-
>
> John W.
> Spitfire #892 DP/M
>
>
>
>
> > It may be more cost effective to use existing gears from Hewland or
> > Webster and modify the mainshaft and layshafts to make them work.
> > That way you can change ratios when you wish.
> >
> > Not that I've done this or anything...
> >
> > Chuck Gee
> > Spitfire #14
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