I like having a differential valve, but not the kind that comes in TR's I
use a 3# inline valve for the front brakes and 10# for the rear. That keeps
the pads and shoes close to the braking surface and gives a near-instant
response for the entire system. The only thing that's worked against that in
the past is that the flex in the front axle and bearing under hard cornering
knocked the pads back and made for exciting braking after any hard corner. I
expect great things this year with the axle conversion and Southwick hubs.
I'll let you know how it turns out after next weekend--the first outing this
year for Peyote.
It's almost ready. I have a leaky needle and seat in one carb--it's flooding
the engine and running raw gas onto the ground. The funny part is that the
carb that's overfilling is the one with the good looking needle and seat.
The other carb had junk holding the spring ball on the top of the needle
from returning completely and some goop next to the needle. But it worked
fine.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fot@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-fot@autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Gerald M Van Vlack
Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2004 6:26 AM
To: FOT
Subject: Converting TR4A Brakes to Dual system TR6 style
Thanks to the FOT answering my hub question, now on to another question.
I am converting my TR4A brake and clutch master system to the dual circuit
TR6 system. I will be using the booster. I'm looking for any been there done
that advise. I did this years ago (1970) on a TR4 racecar, without using the
booster and remember having some pressure buildup issues due to the master
cylinder not returning far enough to relieve the pressure. Group 44 helped
us fix it at Mid-Ohio as I also recall. One of their mechanics stopped by
and figured out our problem immediately. We were no threat to their points
standings.
Should I plumb it with or without the Pressure Differential Valve?
JVV
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