FOTers,
I have posted about this a few times.
I ran front wheel brg spacers for many seasons.
I made them from modified MG Midget front brg spacers with an added selective
spacer to avoid thin shims.
I ALWAYS ran end play and measured it with clean brgs, before greasing.
If you change brgs, check that the cage does not rub the spacer.
Aluminum hubs greatly increase the brg life; at least the Tilton ones did &
they used
std size brgs.
I torque the hub nut to 50 lb/ft, and had selective nuts, per Kas, for the
cotter key
alignment. This also eliminates the inner brgs spinning on the stub axle,
which
leaves a nasty ridge.
The factory front hub nuts sometimes had marginal thread engagement with the
stub
axle. I always inspected all threads for signs of pulling.
I locktighted the nuts to the stub axles to increase the working surface
area, and this
helped the threads last much longer; just keep the stuff out of the brg area
and have
the threads very clean (recheck after you slide the greased brg over the
threads)
I ran the residual pressure valve, with reduced pressure calibration.
This set up worked with full slicks and really flogging my TR.
Hardy Prentice
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