Joe,
Personally I think you are trying to reinvent the wheel, yes the hubs do
wear out but it takes a long time and they are available new. When
reassembling use the far superior front diff nut as fitted to later
Spitfires and fix it with a good dose of loctite - I reckon that with the
donut replaced with a CV joint a lot of forces will be lower on the bearings
in any case, as you may know it is always the inner bearing and the part of
the hub that runs inside it that is always worn.
John Kipping
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist@gte.net>
To: "Friends of Triumph" <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 10:13 AM
Subject: Rotoflex rear Hubs
> Here I am again trying to reinvent the wheel (or maybe just what it
connects to).
>
> The application is the Hub, outer axle and vertical link (upright) on a
GT6 rotoflex application.
>
> The trouble with the original design as I have been informed is that the
forces being applied to the hub causes the threads holding the hub onto the
> shaft stretch, loosen and start wearing on the hub. Ultimately it ruins
either the shaft, hub or both.
>
> After Receiving the two assemblies from Team Triumph (thanks Scott) I have
been thinking a lot about how best to approach a solution. Here are my
> thoughts exposed to the list for critical review. Go ahead and take your
best shot. In the end, I am hoping that I will achieve something that will
> cure the problems and do so at a very affordable price.
>
> 1. One solution that is already in use is to use a Datsun hub that has the
securing bolt on the inside of the upright. This appears to be a good
> solution but I am afraid that availability of parts is going to be reduced
in the future. Also, it involves a lot more parts than what I think are
> necessary.
>
> 2. My vision involves the use of Clive Averill's CV-Joint conversion with
a different twist. I have already had Moser make a pair of inner axle
> shafts to connect from the GT6 flanges to the VW Diesel Rabbit CV-Joint,
so I am looking to replace the outside axle and hub with a different bearing
> configuration.
>
> 3. By having a shaft manufactured with the hub integrated onto the end,
and having the retaining hardware on the inside of the upright, I am
thinking
> that the forces will be better contained and less likely to cause the
normal problems. By using the CV-Joint rather that the rubber donut, the
tripod
> end of the shaft can be changed over to a splined end and allow the shaft
to be threaded further up to accept a pair of jamb nuts to keep the shaft
> properly aligned with the bearings. I am thinking that aircraft type nuts
with safety wire holes will keep them from separating.
>
> 4. In examining the upright, I see that there is a lot of room to position
the bearings further apart. I am thinking that the further apart they are,
> the better able they will be resist wobbling within the bearings and
contain the forces that try to tear up the bearings and hub. I am also
thinking
> that by replacing both bearings with straight rollers instead of the
tapered variety, it would further control these forces.
>
> 5. With all the above taken into consideration, It remains to find
bearings that are the correct size and strength for the job and have a pair
of
> axles machined with the hubs permanently attached, threaded for retainer
nuts and splined for the CV-Joint and grooved for the retaining circlip.
>
> If I can have these shafts made for around $200 each, it would make the
project very affordable. This seems to be well within reason since I had
both
> the inner axles with splines on both ends made for $227.
>
> So, There you have it. I appreciate any input, especially anything that
would shoot holes in my theory. I'd rather find out before investing a
great
> deal of money.
>
> Regards,
> Joe (C)
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