I'd start by ditching the power brake master cylinder and going to a tilton
style setup. We found the TR-6 power brake setup to be effective but
difficult to modulate. I'd think it'd be worse in an auto-x
environment. We have MUCH better feel with unboosted brakes.
- Tony Drews
At 11:36 AM 4/22/2002, Robert M. Lang wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I'm tossing out a trial balloon - so ignore this message if you don't like
>mindless bantering.
>
>I chorded a second set of Goodyears this weekend. Actually, I chorded only
>the right front - but this one was majorly chorded. With the resultant
>high speed vibration that one might expect from a severly flat spotted
>tire at 75+ MPH.
>
>Yes, it was a fast autocross course!
>
>At any rate, I'm clearly locking up the wheel in the same place and
>thereby getting uneven wear. On a hunch, I measured the runout of the
>brake disk on that side and found .005 total runout. That doesn't seem too
>bad.
>
>So now I'm trying to figure out what to do. The cold-stop pads seem to
>work "too good" with the stock calipers and the vacuum brake booster, so I
>have a couple of options.
>
>1. resurface the brake disks to get 'em "true".
>
>2. remove the brake booster vacuum line, or at the very least try to
>regulate the brake vacuum to something less than what I'm getting now
>(which I have no idea what the value of vaccuum is).
>
>3. convert to semi-metallic pads in the theory that they won't be as
>"grabby" and thereby lessen the chance of lockup under moderate pedal
>effort.
>
>4. Toss the stock brakes altogether and load up some Toyota 4 pot calipers
>and a differnt master swilinder arrangement...
>
>I'm figuring the near term solution to be a combo of the first three
>options. I really don't want to get into a major plumbing operation for
>the brake system now that we are in the driving season... but one has to
>do what one has to do.
>
>These tires are expensive!
>
>regards,
>rml
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