One detail I forgot was that you saw off the bottom ears of the fulcrum so that
it sits lower... I'm scanning in a drawing of this at work today and can send
one to anyone interested. This is a "conceptual" drawing with no dimensions.
I'll compress it so it's not a huge file. Let me know if anyone else is
interested... We should refer to this as the "Irv Korey Mod". :)
PS - Irv, thanks for the powerpoint drawing! I'm going to try to re-do it just
to show the lower ears cut off...
- Tony
RIVERSIDE SPORTS CARS wrote:
> ----------
> > Date: (No, or invalid, date.)
> > From: RIVERSIDE
> > To: tot@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: negative camber
> >
> > A problem with the described solution is that now the inner shaft
> > centerline is farther from the ground than before. We want that
> > center to be pretty close the the factory point I think, to encourage
> > camber gain on jounce. The A-arm sawing isn't the best deal
> > either as shortening the upper arm makes changes in camber more
> > abrupt. Getting this geometry just right is why engineers get the
> > big bucks. One of my early attempts to avoid both of the above
> > pitfalls was to heat and bend the upright to get the desired static
> > camber. This of course openned up another can of worms with the
> > trunion and ball joint no longer sharing a pivot axis. Using alot of
> > castor (5 degrees or more) can help alot but the steering loads
> > can get out of hand. Bill Boemler once told me that he had his
> > TR3 racer at like 13 degrees and it handled beautifully. After about
> > ten laps tho, his arms fell off!
> > art de armond
> > ----------
> > > Another way of adding negative camber without sawing the upper A-arms is
> > to bolt
> > > a
> > > large piece of angle iron to the holes at the top of the spring perch
> > where
> > > the inner
> > > side of the upper A-arm normally attaches. Make sure that the upright
> > face of
> > > the
> > > angle iron is somewhat inboard of the normal pivot location (like maybe
> > .100
> > > to .150
> > > inch?). Bolt the stock inner pivot piece (trunnion?) to the vertical
> > face of
> > > the
> > > angle iron - you'll need to rotate it 90 degrees from its normal
> > orientation.
> > > You
> > > can then use shims between the angle iron and A-arm attachment to adjust
> > the
> > > camber.
> > >
> > > Upon re-reading my description above, I find I've confused myself. I
> > think I
> > > can
> > > draw this up as a jpeg and send it to anyone interested. This is not my
> > idea,
> > > but
> > > when I saw it on someone else's TR-4 I was impressed with its
> simplicity.
> > >
> > > - Tony Drews
> > >
> >
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