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RE: Simple Question: Bump Stops

To: "'Bob Lang'" <LANG@isis.mit.edu>
Subject: RE: Simple Question: Bump Stops
From: Jack Wheeler <jwheeler@seidata.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 07:22:20 -0500
Bob, in my earlier message, I forgot to mention that I removed the upper 
bump stop supports from the rear inner fenders (just drilled out the 
spotwelds).  I did use the lower rear bumpstop, which is a rubber cone 
mounted to the frame under the stock shock absorber arms.

-----Original Message-----
From:   Bob Lang [SMTP:LANG@isis.mit.edu]
Sent:   Tuesday, February 29, 2000 10:18 AM
To:     fot@autox.team.net
Subject:        Simple Question: Bump Stops

Hi,

I'm preparing for another phase of "lowering", and I've become perplexed
with the issue of bump stops on the front suspension of my TR6.

The short version of the question is: are the bumps stops built into the
shocks??

I can see that the lower limit of travel is the little "thingie" that
attached to the lower trunnion that also acts as a steering limiter...
but that's not a bump stop per se because it's made out of a hard
substance - sort of the antithesis of normal rubber bump stops. But there
seems to be no upper limit other than the shock bottoming out (topping
out???) or the spring fully compressing.

I presume that in extreme suspension travel that changes the spring rate
from 400-something lb. / inch spring rate to "infinite" instantaniously
would possibly be described as "sub-optimal", at least in regards to
driveability.

At any rate, I don't want to lower the spring so far that I do wind up
binding the shock - after all, I can't buy any new Spax shocks, if
popular rumor about the state of Spax is actually true. And yes, I know
that Carerra makes a better shock - but that's "down the road", to borrow
a euphamism.

So amici, what's the drift on front bump stops on TR4A'a and TR6's??

With regard to the rear bump stops - the lower one is no problem. The
upper bump stop is a bit more problematic - if you lower the car more
than 2.5 inches, you run out of upper bump distance. I can see that two
choices are available - hack out the bump-stop perch on on the body or
modify the trailing arm by hacking down the little tower that the upper
bump stop screws into. I presume that hacking out perch on the body is
preferable, but my question is: do I need to worry (more) about the axle
sliding spline binding (bottoming) as I get the car lower?

Just curious. Any replies are appreciated.

rml
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