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Having had just a big bunch of history with the TR-6 enigne and
flywheels and clutchs flying off, making a installation with a light
flywheel and the lightest smallest cluch makes a significant difference
in the durability of the crankshaft and the available rpm. When making
the flywheel (aluminum) have the center hub as deep as possible with
about a .002" interference fit. This hub should then go onto the crank
almost touching the seal. The problem is that the flywheel actually
wobbles as the vibration of the crnakshaft is transfered to it and this
movement is then trying to PRY the flywheel off the crank. When you
lighten, reduce the size of the clutch you reduce this movment by about
one half. I nmeasured all this on the dnyo with a oscilloscope and
potentiometers For the fitting you then heat the flywheel and it will
slide onto the crank end. I also drilled and taped the end of the crank
for FOUR more bolts. Use bolts that are HARD not just strong. By hard I
mean bolts that have a very limited stretch before breaking. Bolts that
are stong and stretch allow the flywhell to slide around and wobble but
the bolts don't break. Too bad, cause you are still a DNF.. Machine
bolts such as used for hold downs in shop machinery such as a mill are
hard and do not stretch. Kas Kastner
David C. Wingett wrote:
> Since the question of clutch & fly wheels has arisen, I'm
> wondering if anyone has tried putting together a small button clutch
> (Tilton or Quarter Master) with a flex plate,on a TR-6 ? I can only
> imagine the rotating mass coming down to near nothing.
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Having had just a big bunch of history with the TR-6 enigne and flywheels
and clutchs flying off, making a installation with a light flywheel
and the lightest smallest cluch makes a significant difference in the durability
of the crankshaft and the available rpm. When making the flywheel (aluminum)
have the center hub as deep as possible with about a .002" interference
fit. This hub should then go onto the crank almost touching the seal. The
problem is that the flywheel actually wobbles as the vibration of the crnakshaft
is transfered to it and this movement is then trying to PRY the flywheel
off the crank. When you lighten, reduce the size of the clutch you reduce
this movment by about one half. I nmeasured all this on the dnyo
with a oscilloscope and potentiometers For the fitting you then heat
the flywheel and it will slide onto the crank end. I also drilled and taped
the end of the crank for FOUR more bolts. Use bolts that are HARD not just
strong. By hard I mean bolts that have a very limited stretch before
breaking. Bolts that are stong and stretch allow the flywhell to slide
around and wobble but the bolts don't break. Too bad, cause you are
still a DNF.. Machine bolts such as used for hold downs in shop machinery
such as a mill are hard and do not stretch. Kas Kastner
<P>David C. Wingett wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE> <FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT
SIZE=-1>
Since the question of clutch & fly wheels has arisen, I'm wondering
if anyone has tried putting together a small button clutch (Tilton or Quarter
Master) with a flex plate,on a TR-6 ? I can only imagine the rotating
mass coming down to near nothing.</FONT></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
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</HTML>
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