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Roasty Toasty

To: "'Bownes, Robert M. (EXCH)'" <RMBOWNES@intermedia.com>
Subject: Roasty Toasty
From: Chip Bond <spirals@esinet.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 13:41:55 -0500
Kevin.

>From experience I can say the the only safe way to fix that problem is to 
buy a -4 alloy union, and go to the best welding/machine shop you can find. 
Have them cut the union in half through the center of the hex portion,  cut 
off and drill out the brass tube. Then TIG the half union into place 
permanently.

Please do not try to adapt any braided line/ aguipt fittings to the brass 
tube itself. Get rid of it.

When mine let go, the break was in the brass tube, INSIDE of the float 
chamber cover. It was at speed and (being a right hand drive car) the 
flames were at my face , my feet, everywhere.

When you finally realise you have no choice but to stick your left foot 
into the flames and work the brake pedal to stop the car, you VERY much 
appreciate the quility of your drivers suit.

Kevin, that is a very good observation, the original set-up is antiquated 
and can in no way survive the constant vibration of these cars in racing 
trim.

Best racing wishes,
Chip


----------
From:   Bownes, Robert M. (EXCH)[SMTP:RMBOWNES@intermedia.com]
Sent:   Friday, February 13, 1998 12:04 PM
To:     'FOT@autox.team.net'; 'Kevin  O'Driscoll'
Subject:        RE: TR4/A Gas Lines

While I cannot answer on the TR4 in particular, I do have an opinion on
the subject...:-}


>Dear FOT's,
>I have two questions regarding Gas Lines on the TR4 and TR4A series.  The
>push fit original gas line seems to be a rather less than a safe
>arrangement for the racing environment.

Most of what Triumph did in the brake & fuel dept is somewhat less than
satisfactory in a race environment...

>Q1:  What options are recommended as alternatives?

Replace all fittings with aeroquip.
Replace all rubber line with Aeroquip braided stainless.
Replace all steel line with new steel line. (if it's more than a few
years old)
If you are racing and the sanctioning body will allow it, spend the $$
and buy a foam filled fuel cell. Even a plastic non filled cell (drag
racers
use 'em) might be better than a steel one, but I won't go play in
traffic
without a real cell.

The first 3 will cost you about $100. I sleep alot better nowadays, but
I still worry about the fittings on the SU's, esp after Chip's Roasty
Toasty
Adventure.

>Also as a subquestion what do people do about relocating
>the gas pump away from the engine, and what alternative pumps are
>recommended?

Race cars should all have fuel pumps in the trunk, near the fuel cell.
Easier to hear them ticking over there when the car isn't running. :-}
Fuel pump manufacturer of choice seems to be Mallory, but I have an
older Facet, which works pretty well. If you are going racing, put in an
inversion cutoff switch.

>Q2:  What was the original routing of the gas line for the
>IRS frame vs. the old TR4 ladder frame, and are these considered safe by
>modern standards?

Can't help there.


Bob





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