Did I see my cracks mentioned? My car is up and running again, with
new block in place, after a minor problem with the cam timing ( I
screwed it up the first time). We have our first 1998 race the first
weekend in February, and it looks like I'll be ready for a change. As
you stated, the problem I had was those pesky cracks around the "short"
stud holes. I also noted a gradual erosion/deterioration of the upper
threads in the block, i.e.: they were going away. My machinist used a
magnaflux powder to show me the cracks. Needless to say, it's not worth
messing with a questionable block, and they do wear out, at least the
threads do. Using a stock gasket didn't help me to get the head gasket
to stick. I tried 3 of them, a thin solid copper and a couple of copper
wired shim steel gaskets. A thick solid copper gasket probably could
have kept me away from the total rebuild a few races, but the timing
was right so I tore it down. Thank heaven it's sticking now!
Bob Kramer, Austin TX
Hill Country Triumph Club
TR6x3, TR250 x3, TR3A vintage race
rgk@flash.net
----------
> From: TR3197@aol.com
> To: fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: Sealing problems-Head Gaskets
> Date: Tuesday, January 20, 1998 9:47 PM
>
> Baxter Culver,
>
> It occurred to me that we have had a couple folks who have had cracks
at the
> tapped holes in the block. One in Texas that caused the owner to
obtain a new
> block, after a couple head gasket problems. He found another block
and is in
> the process of building a new engine.
>
> Another FOT member had a mysterious failure with a gasket and cured
it by
> using a standard gasket, to finish the season, which might be more
forgiving
> than the steel or copper.
>
> I sent a block to the machine shop, last month, and they discovered
cracks in
> the "short" stud holes (2 of them). I didnt know they even checked
the block
> for cracks. I am glad they did/do.
>
> Could this could be a contributor to the problem? I think so.
>
> The machine shop says to clean the area with carb cleaner and see if
there is
> "wet line" where the crack might be. The carb cleaner will collect in
the
> crack and be the last to dry and will serve as a preliminary check
before
> dismantling the engine completely and doing a final check.
>
> Good hunting,
>
> Joe Alexander
>
>
>
>
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