In a message dated 97-12-07 19:14:07 EST, you write:
<< (crack, rods pistons, camshaft, lifters, timing chain and gears) and
used new liners and bearings. I marked the camshaft at TDC prior to
disassembly in order to make re-installation easy. The good news is
that the head gasket is holding fine, but the engine isn't running
properly. It's running hot (the headers get almost cherry red) and at a
loss for power. My first thought is that I missed by a link on the
timing chain or by a tooth on the drive gear, but I'm wondering if it's
something more basic, like differences between blocks in setting up
timing. I guess I'll have to measure TDC on #1 with some push-rods and
reset the timing gears. Any helpful advice. Setting up the camshaft
is still a gray area for me.
>>
Bob I hope your moving the crack to the new block is a typo (as if
I should talk about typing skills!)
The block should make no difference.
What cam do you run? If it is a common "Split overlap" cam set correctly
both valves would be open the same amount @TDC for #1 cyl when #4 cyl
is on its compression stroke (rotor pointed to #4 plug wire) Check TDC
by looking in the plug hole incase the crank pulley halves are on improperly.
this is just a rough guide for TDC.
see P.22 of the factory TR2/3 manual also
a fast way to check the valve height is : with both valves closed put a
straight edge front to back over the top of both spring retainers. IF they
are equal, AND the inlet and exhaust valve lash is equal, then the straight
edge should set the same way @ TDC ,#4 compression. The inlet will be
on the way down, the EX on the way up.
I assume that you checked the ignition timing.
If you have to reset the timing chain (see manual P20, if you are
using the origional chain wheels) Try one link off in each direction;
this really helps confirm the timing
BTW Degreeing a cam is not a big deal you should always do it.
Regards, HP
|