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For minor cases of varnish build-up (and it does not sound like what the or=
iginator - Gary? -was finding), here is what I heard from the 2-stroke out=
board motor guys.
"Our first step for varnish build-up is we drain the tank and carb and put =
in the cheapest AM/PM unleaded gas and let it soak overnite. Those new gass=
es are so much like a solvent compared to old leaded gas, that that cures l=
ike 80+% of the gunk build-up problems."
Now they are dealing with 50/50 premix having the gas evaporate and leave t=
he oil turned to varnish in the carb bowl and tank, but just a anecdotal no=
te.
Hardtops:
Not sure where the porthole top was fabbed (most all the west coast dealer =
sold tops came from 2 fiberglass shops here in LA), but that vinyl texture =
is molded into the fiberglass skin. Sanding to prep for paint is not a bad=
idea, but it will be hard (outside of some sort of media blast) to sand in=
the crevices of that texture, so it will be a challenge to get paint to st=
ick consistently. A mild (brass?) wire brush that lets bristles get into =
crevices might work well. Rubbing beach sand on it might get into the smal=
l grooves too.
The real concern is if in scuff sanding you sand away any of the texture, l=
eaving it smooth. If you paint a glossy coating, that smooth area is going=
to stand out like a sore thumb.
Sand the whole thing smooth? Good luck trying to do that evenly and not ha=
ve a ton of whoop-de-doos. (technical term)
Plus a lot of itchy dust and noise, labor, etc.
Fill the grooves? See lack of adhesion due to surface prep, and the top is=
going to get heavy, even if you use micro-balloons as the filler instead o=
f a solid, like talc or cabosil or the common ones. (talc is easily sandab=
le, cabosil is not easily sandable.. and if this is chosen, PM me or read u=
p about about safety measures using un-mixed cabosil)
Scuff sand, wipe with a mild solvent (ISO alcohol is a usual choice, doesn'=
t leave a film) and rattle can a coating. Multiple mist layers always ends=
up better, no thick layers.
Hope that helps, and was not too long winded.
Fergus O
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<p class=3D"MsoNormal">For minor cases of varnish build-up (and it does not=
sound like what the originator – Gary? -was finding), here is =
what I heard from the 2-stroke outboard motor guys.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">“Our first step for varnish build-up is we dra=
in the tank and carb and put in the cheapest AM/PM unleaded gas and let it =
soak overnite. Those new gasses are so much like a solvent compared to old =
leaded gas, that that cures like 80+% of
the gunk build-up problems.”<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Now they are dealing with 50/50 premix having the ga=
s evaporate and leave the oil turned to varnish in the carb bowl and tank, =
but just a anecdotal note.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Hardtops:<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Not sure where the porthole top was fabbed (most all=
the west coast dealer sold tops came from 2 fiberglass shops here in LA), =
but that vinyl texture is molded into the fiberglass skin. Sanding to=
prep for paint is not a bad idea, but
it will be hard (outside of some sort of media blast) to sand in the crevi=
ces of that texture, so it will be a challenge to get paint to stick consis=
tently. A mild (brass?) wire brush that lets bristles get into =
crevices might work well. Rubbing beach sand
on it might get into the small grooves too.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">The real concern is if in scuff sanding you sand awa=
y any of the texture, leaving it smooth. If you paint a glossy coatin=
g, that smooth area is going to stand out like a sore thumb.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Sand the whole thing smooth? Good luck trying =
to do that evenly and not have a ton of whoop-de-doos. (technical term)<o:p=
></o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Plus a lot of itchy dust and noise, labor, etc.<o:p>=
</o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Fill the grooves? See lack of adhesion due to =
surface prep, and the top is going to get heavy, even if you use micro-ball=
oons as the filler instead of a solid, like talc or cabosil or the common o=
nes. (talc is easily sandable, cabosil
is not easily sandable.. and if this is chosen, PM me or read up about abo=
ut safety measures using un-mixed cabosil)
<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Scuff sand, wipe with a mild solvent (ISO alcohol is=
a usual choice, doesn’t leave a film) and rattle can a coating. =
; Multiple mist layers always ends up better, no thick layers.<o:p></o:p></=
p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Hope that helps, and was not too long winded.<o:p></=
o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Fergus O<o:p></o:p></p>
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