Agree with all points and also recommend using a pre-paint solvent to remove
wax, silicone and grease-before you sand else you will be pushing that stuff
deeper into the old paint
Joe
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 28, 2013, at 3:07 PM, "O'Farrell, Fergus P (AS)"
<Fergus.OFarrell@ngc.com> wrote:
> Stripping to bare is then going to require an etching primer, which is
outside
> most DIY home processes, (those etching fumes do a number on your lung
> tissues, as does any airborne epoxy) and requires the primer to be applied
> very soon after removal, so precludes home sanding (unless you sand and DIY
> prime, then they blast/remove your primer and re-prime, which sounds
> redundant)
>
> Anyway, we can mention now that we miss Enrique Scanlon, the Z car and
> roadster paint expert.
>
> Primers are not waterproof, so primer only does rust.
> Primers that sit a while (our rule is anything over 3 days) have to be
> re-activated, meaning a light scuff before paint.
> Most will admit that successful painting is about a clean substrate
(surface),
> not necessarily a bare surface. If original primer is well adhered, I'd
leave
> it and only remove the old paint. Scuff it well, clean it extremely well,
and
> paint from there.
>
> Just from my limited experience, current value <.02 American.
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