Well!!!!!!!
Out here in California we have some cool twisty roads - Decker Canyon
being one - serious downhill, twisty as all heck - and YEP - at the end
of a serious downhill run, I was out of brakes - but this is (as someone
mentikoned) a 40+ year old car. I love driving fast - but heavens - this is
an OLD car - try doing this on my old 49 Bentley MKViI - which I did and
scared me even more - especially with a 2 ton + car.
They were designed as they were designed - at a time when they mostly out-did
their competitors - MGA,TR's MGB - any modern car will do better - but who
wants to have fun in a modern car like we do with our roadsters
Peter Harrison - Eliza [TOAD SAN]
818 448 3181
> From: sandhoff@csus.edu
> To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 8 May 2012 17:17:31 -0700
> Subject: [Roadsters] Brakes (was: FLAPS....was Slave Cylinder)
>
> > I too have been sorely disappointed in the braking capability of
> > my roadster...
>
> Personal opinion...
> Properly set up, the Roadster brakes are quite good. A host of
> problems with 40 year old hydraulics may occur, but the basic design
> and implementation are quite solid.
>
> The front calipers are identical to Jaguar and Studebaker of the
> generation. And the 'Stude weighs in at two tons, so a one ton
> Roadster shouldn't have a problem slowing down :-)
>
> One 'gotcha' is a too-thin rotor, resulting in the pad hitting the
> bridge and not the rotor. Firm pedal, no stopping power.
>
> Old rubber hoses will sap all the braking force as well, as they will
> expand a bit under pressure and steal the PSI.
>
> The later cars, with the dual cylinder, have a non-serviceable valve
> inside the piston assembly. If this valve doesn't fully seat, the fluid
> pumps internally in the cylinder and doesn't generate braking pressure.
> Especially if the brake system ever sat 'dry', the master is probably
> not up to snuff. They used to be expensive, nowadays they're in the
> "you want HOW MUCH for that?!??" range.
>
> If all the parts are good, the brakes are great. If major parts need
> replacement, I imagine it's a cost savings to do the Volvo (or
> another) swap.
>
> > Does anyone know what the bleeder valves on the master are used for?
>
> They're used to bleed the master :-)
>
> To bench bleed the master, gently clamp it in a vice, put hoses from
> the bleeder outlets to squirt back into each reservoir, add fluid and
> pump pump pump. This works the air out of all the nooks and crannies.
>
> -- John
> John F Sandhoff sandhoff@csus.edu Sacramento, CA
>
> p.s. Old-timer hint: remove the plastic cover from the front
> steel crossover tubes. The pipe rusts underneath it and one day
> you'll lose your front brakes. I was always skeptical about that
> actually happening - 'til one day when I lost my front brakes...
> ________________________________________
>
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>
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