David,
Yes, it is "out to start", "in to run".
I'd like to help, but there are too many possibilities. If the car starts
without the choke, but will not run without it, something is real wrong. I
presume the ignition system is all in order, and compression is within
specs. If you don't feel qualified to set the carbs up from first
principles, I'd get them to a professional.
If you like the car, and want it to run right out of the box, Z-Therapy is
pricey but they get it right. You won't have to worry whether throttle
shafts leak, nozzles are worn, needles are worn, the suction pistons move
freely and are not worn, the relationship between the throttle butterflies
and the nozzles with the "choke" engaged is correct....
There is another outfit, whose name I do not recall, Cincinnati-based I
believe, which sometimes sells refurbished carbs on eBay. I have no
experience with them, however. I have installed a set of Z-Therapy carbs on
a friend's car, and it fired up and idled smoothly with no adjustments.
They were even close to being balanced correctly.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Boerst" <dboerst@yahoo.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2010 2:55 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] Another Carb problem
>I swapped out the carbs on a 1966 1600 (some of you might be familiar with
>"Amy's" car) To start the choke is in (off) and to drive it is out (on). If
>I leave the choke in it pops and sputters, too lean I am assuming. If I try
>and start the car with it out it floods out. I always thought it was the
>other way around, choke out to start choke in to drive once it warms up
>that is. Any idea what is going on here? The car is orange but yellow might
>have been more appropriate...
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