Marty,
The $1000 for the rubber isn't as bad as it seems. You get a TON of
stuff, and almost everything rubber in the car is in that kit with the
exception of a few items. It's actually worth the money. If you try to
piecemeal it by buying the few items you can get elsewhere, (like the
window channel rubber), you still need to get the items specific for the
car, and individually those will cost more. Just buy the kit.
I don't remember how many pieces are in there, but it's a LOT.
Eddie
Marty Escarcega wrote:
> Keith, thanks for the info. Exactly where we were headed. I can do some paint
>and bodywork and likely what I will do after the mechanicals are fixed. Give a
>quick sand with a DA and shoot at least a light coat of red oxide primer to
>protect it and then work on one panel at a time. I had considered taking all
>the removable panels off and taking them to a fellow I know that can media
>blast them (he has worked on collectable vehicles and does not use sand or
>slag) That would save us a lot of time on the sanding, most everything has to
>come apart anyway for new ($1,000 ouch) rubber! :-)
>
> Marty
> ---- Keith0alan@aol.com wrote:
>
>> My thought would be to get it roadworthy first. Do the brakes and clutch
>> hydraulics first, not someplace to cut corners. Tail lights need replaced.
>> Replace the tires. If they are rotted you just don't want to take the
>chance.
>> The front wheel bearings no doubt need at least repacked if not replaced.
>> After fixing the things keeping it off the road then drive it. Once you
>> start driving it the car will let you know what to do next. I am fond of
>the
>> "fix what speaks to me the loudest" method. Make a list of things needing
>> worked on. Pick one at a time and get it done. Having the car half apart
>> working on several different things is frustrating. Feel free to ask us a
>lot
>> of questions, that's why we are here. A bit of sanding and at least primer
>> are in order. If you do the prep work a low dollar paint job looks pretty
>> good.
>>
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